How to build wheels better and faster for less than $30
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- A step by step process for building better bicycle wheels. This is a complete tutorial but if you want to go to the big reward, it's at the end, but viewing the whole video will most likely give even well seasoned builders some tips. This is based on 20 years of wheel building experience.
Link to a written copy.
www.neugentcycl...
My web site is www.neugentcycling.com
I run specials regularly and give tips on both buying and building wheels.
John you are an artisan. To many of us through the years you are a God. I work on all types of engineering projects and have built dozens of bikes but the one sacrosanct area for me is spoke tensioning. I ride your wheels, I even have handlebars, stems, and seatposts with your logo on them and they do a lot of miles every week. Solid, good-performing miles.
Some day I may try to build a wheel myself, I'll follow your video to a T but it will never have the magic that John Neugent would impart.
Best wishes, John, and thanks for this video!
Best, RPS
I didn't really understand when to do the radial truing until now. Thank You for the good explanation of the process and why to do it like that! I've built 7 wherls so far, and re-trued a couple more, but I always struggled with radial truing.
Thank you for your time and instruction as well as my education
Thanks for watching
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and insight!
Everyone has their own take on this subject. I made the corrections at high tension in the past and learned by experience. There is an interesting video on the Velocity rim factory which is now in the USA. The extrusions are rolled into a corkscrew like stack and cut with a bandsaw all at one time at the seams. There is a tool that adjusts alignment before the biscuit is set in. It's easy to see that quality of the rim is so variable. Not only that, but the circumference could be off, and you know what that means. Front wheel nearly perfect, back wheel with a minor dip at the seam! No seams with carbon, but that's another rabbit hole!
All of the rim factories use that method of making rims. My guess is that the quality of a rim is determined by the alloy and by the maintenance of the machines.
Great reference video for wheel building, Keep up the good work John!
Thanks, will do!
Brilliant. I’ve been doing it wrong. Thank you
Glad it helped
Appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Personally, I don’t ever see myself custom building a wheel set. I have purchased a few wheel sets from you over the years.
Thanks for your comment. While this is mostly targeted to wheel builders I think other people will find it interesting just to know how it's done.
I feel this is much easier way to build and to teach the process. I did a similar video a few years ago. This is how I was taught about 35 years ago. Good job!!
I need to figure out a way to gauge spoke tension without a tensiometer. It's not important for most wheels but on the low spoke count wheels it's more important. And for me the key tension is the non drive side rear spokes not being too loose. I spec the drive side but it's especially the non drive side is not too loose. If the rim is asymetrical it's not so important but if it isn't and the drive side is low, the non drive side can only have a few nipple turns of being loose.
@@neugentcycling938I built my first wheelset without a tensiometer, and I just compared the feel of the spokes of a known good wheel. When I got a tensiometer a few months later, I checked the wheeland found that the tension was actually basically the same. So for the same wheel size, feeling the spoke and comparing the pitch when you pluck it, seems to be good enough in my experience.
Good stuff John.
Thanks 👍
@@neugentcycling938 ..also, I suppose if you never used a self-centering truing stand it might not be obvious :-) That was a glorious day when i had enough money to buy a genuine Park truing stand like the one I used working in a bike shop. When I made my own wheels groing up, I used 1) old bike forks and a ruler, 2) a flexy POS truing stand sold by a well known "ahem.." bike shop that used a document clip as the edge gauge then 3) a bomber adjustable truing stand I welded up but that was not self-dishing. I use to flex the rim to relieve the twist in the spoke, not to stretch them thought that occurred as well. Afterwards re-truing. I would over--bend the spoke elbows in the hub prior to lacing so they sat naturally straight. In recent years, I found a clever tip to use a tower mounted on a board to make lacing the hub easier by elevating it. Cheers. D