How To Build The Strongest Wheels - In Depth Guide
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- Опубликовано: 7 июн 2018
- This has been a popular request since the start of my channel, so here it is...how to build super strong wheels!
I've tried to include a lot of detail so it is a long video, a lot of you will already be able to build wheels already and may have different techniques but this is how I like to do it.
I didn't include things like hammering the shoulders or using a spanner to twist the spokes more as the stamping of the spokes does pretty much the same job.
BIG thanks to Light Bicycle for the rims, Industry Nine for the Hubs and Tartybikes for the spokes!!
www.lightbicycle.com/
industrynine.com/
www.tartybikes.co.uk/
Sheldon Brown has the most in depth guide I've seen (though a little dated), if you need more details check out this link:
www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuil...
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I built my first wheels using this tutorial, and have just built my 4th set again following these steps. You really make it idiot proof, and the wheels I have built so far have stood up the abuse. Many thanks.
However, it's still wrong 50% of the time..He's forgetting one very important step:
He is not adjusting his wheel build acording to if it's a right, or left drilled rim. Rims have the holes slightly drilled left or right, changing every hole. He's putting his first spoke into the first hole to the left. If this was a "Left drilled rim" he'd need to put his first spoke into the second hole to the left instead.
Hope it makes sense. (It's quite important because it will make the nipple sit straight against the rim, and not at an angle.)
@@primal5435 ? I have had Onza drilled rims I don't think it makes any difference at all.
@@alimantado373 I don't know that specific rim, but rarely some rims are drilled with the hole straight in the middle, with no angle. In that case it doesn't matter.
if it's a right or left drilled rim, it does matter.
You learn this, in the almost 4 year long bike education in Denmark. You would probably fail the exams if you didn't account for left or right drilled rims, when building the wheel.
@@primal5435 You are making good point, but this guy have done amazing tutorial for noobies, and I'm greatful for this good job. Don't be so "I know everything", make better tutorial and be happy man ;).
You say building wheels isn’t as complex as people make it seem and you’re right. I think it’s just difficult to articulate the process without over complicating it. You nailed it here. I came across this video after lacing a set last night. I was so satisfied with your explanation that I had to try your method so I unlaced one and followed your procedure. Please don’t ever take this video down. I intend to watch it as a refresher every time I lace a new wheel set. Absolutely brilliant.
Using a spoke tension gauge I lost 20% of measured tension after stepping on the wheel. That step is essential. Excellent tutorial!
This is the best video I’ve come across. I’ve used it multiple times. Thanks
Moi
Injn nn kool i t
This is downright the best wheel building tutorial there is. I bought myself a wheel building stand after watching this.(because you made it look so easy) I've built 3 sets of wheel so far. All were easy and worked out great, thank you Ali! I actually though you were a pro level bike mechanic! (because you mentioned Danny) and you made it look so simple and easy. You definitely have a knack at teaching. On my second wheel build, I watched another RUclips video , but used your method of building and was done with 40 mins of their video left! And you have also introduced me to Trials riding, Something I never thought I knew about. As a teenager I was pretty good at BMX freestyle and tricks( bunny hops an such) I hope to learn to manual and get my bunnyhops higher by the end of summer now.
Thanks again for the great videos!
16:22 - "I really hope I'm not over-complicating this too much" ..... classic!
Perfect. I have none of those tools. Great start.
You probably have a sho right ;-)
I have gloves, a nipple key and a rim-stand. Stearic acid as lubricant. I also grind bearings and change bearing balls.
Lauri Pullinen linseed oil works a beauty as well
Colin Redman Ive used linseed oil for over 30 years of wheebuilding. One can will last a lifetime and its almost free compared to spoke prep!
Sometimes at work we use teflon pipe thread prep. It works good as well.
@@colinredman302 Yeah but doesn't it get grimy and viscous as it ages? I've used it for oil painting and my linseed oil always does that.
I taught myself wheel-building with “The Bicycle Wheel Book” in the 80s. Built a few hundred wheels since then.
You can use tone as a tension gage if you have a good ear for tone. I built many wheels that way before I bought a tension gauge. I found wheels I built by ear were within 10% of same tension.
Also brass nipples are superior. They DONT cost much weight! Brass makes better threads.( Im a machinist too)Ammonia in Stans fluid(use different sealant!)doesnt degrade brass either. Brass will allow easier truing when the wheel gets old
Ive found the best spoke thread lube is linseed oil. It dries like a paste yet retains its lubricating properties. Pipe thread paste works as well.
Highly dished WEAK wheels(bad designs such as 130 OLD 11 spd) require spoke prep for barely tensioned non drive spokes.
EVEN tension, practical, well thought design, careful, thoughtful assembly and lots of j bend spokes build the strongest, most reliable and easily repaired wheels.
How about steel nipples ?
a A rRB b uzU Z Is there such a thing? Ive never seen any.
Ive mostly used brass. The spline drive alloy type are ok but not really worth the money or weight savings. Ive built wheels a long time, brass just works and works, even when your wheels are 40 years old!!
@@rollinrat4850 yes, there is :)
And they'll provide you a better performance at the lower price range.
Obviously price depends on the material class and the manufacturing quality, but still, steel will be cheaper.
Idk why im saying this, yet ur a machinist 😅
Edit: sorry, I was actually wrong. Painted steel nipples costs more than brass... only non-painted steel costs pennys 😅
a A rRB b uzU Z I dont build inexpensive wheels. Im not being a snob, its just practicality. Its not worth it for my customers or myself. I need to be able to offer a lifetime truing warranty on my wheels. I build the ‘best valued’ wheels and those that can last a lifetime of reasonably hard use. I use only DT or Wheelsmith butted
j-bend spokes. Theyre not that expensive and brass nipples come with them. Theyre also of excellent quality. The strength of quality wheels comes largely from spokes and the number of them. Any wheel worth hand building is worth good quality spokes and nipples, not to mention the rest of the components and thoughtful, practical design for the intended usage and user. Very strong, long lasting wheels can be built from good quality reasonably priced components.
Ive been building wheels for over 30 years, both reasonably priced ones and high end wheels as well. My wheels rarely require truing or break spokes.
Personally, I use fairly light track wheels on my fixed gear/SS ‘cross bike. Due to no dish these wheels take incredible beatings(with skinny tires) on the technical, rocky singletrack I frequent. One set of my track wheels use 40 year old Campy Record hubs, roll as smooth as when new and have never needed truing! The Chris King wheels I use on my MTB are 25 years old, still using ceramic rims, v brakes and ORIGINAL bearings. Probably over 100000 miles on these wheels! Besides the rim stickers being faded and scratched, these wheels show no apparent wear despite being beaten on the most technical trails I can find. Ive also had great experiences with much less expensive Shimano hubs and have a couple working old sets of those as well.
A couple of things... It's always surprised me that more people don't use pitch (tone) to determine even tension. I'm a long-time musician with about a dozen wheels under my belt, and it's good to know that an experienced builder uses this method. Do you find that it's important to get an absolute value with a tension meter, or at this point do you think you can get close enough by feel? Second, Industry Nine uses boiled linseed oil to build all of their wheels. Good stuff.
Built my first wheel today following Ali's instructions (three cross). Super easy to understand this tutorial - time will tell if I did a good job. Thanks for sharing your knowledge Ali! Much appreciated!
I've built a few wheels in my day. This was a great video. Although when you stood on the spokes to stress them, I almost lost my lunch. It makes so much sense after watching you do it. But I never would have guessed you could safely do that to a wheel. Thanks for teaching me something new. Sometimes explaining how to do something is so much harder than doing it. You did a great job.
Thanks a ton Ali! I'll never get tired of watching this type of videos, keep 'em popin'...
Amazing, Ali!! This video is awesome and demystifies the wheel building process. It's so easy to follow your simple instructions and I appreciate how you quickly reiterate important details and processes during each stage. I will refer to this video for sure when attempting to build wheels. Thanks!!
Absolutely brilliant - finally someone shows a proper wheel build from soup to nuts! Thank you for taking the time and effort to make and upload this video, just great stuff.
Proper? With alu nipples? Yeah, ok.
I did mine with flip-flops and it works great too. Thank you for the shoe tip, that makes a real difference.
Best regards!
This is as good as it gets. One only has to watch Ali’s riding to see how much the wheels are put through. Thanks for sharing Ali. I’ll be using that stressing technique on all future wheel builds for sure.
Thanks for the instructions. Made my wheel built so much easier! :-) First tried putting all the spokes on one side and that gave me a hell of a time to do the other side. End up taking everything apart. This technique was smooth as butter!
Thank you Ali! You've given me the confidence to tackle my first wheel build! 😬😬😬
Super appreciate the time and effort you put into the video. Thanks! Love the Light Bicycle rims as well (on my 3rd set).
Thank you ever so much for the tutorial video. Been looking for a pretty detailed video for truing a MTB wheel for a while. Now I feel knowledgeable enough to give it a try at rebuilding my wheels. Cheers!
Thank you for this video! It helped me out massively on one of my recent wheel builds. There are loads of wheel build "how to's" out there but this is one of the best. Clear, understandable but to the point. Thank you, awesome video. Cheers
I build my wheels the exact same way. Splitting the lacing in quarters makes the building so much easier. Thanks for the video, Ali!
Thanks dude! The timing for this video was perfect since I'm preparing to build my first wheel today or tomorrow
I have been building wheels for over 20 years and in my efforts to watch every one of your videos Ali watched this and loved this tutorial. Great work!
Yo I spent the afternoon watching 3 mins of this video, spending however many minutes doing as instructed and repeating. Thanks for such a high quality, informative, clear, and detailed video.
First wheel build in the books :)
I recently built a pair of wheels for a bike I'm working on and just wanted to thank you for your guide. It is definitely one of the better guides for someone who has never done this before. Since this was my first set of 32 spoke wheels using Inferno 27 rims, sapim race spokes and sapim secure-lock nipples with novatec d041/d042 hubs. I will share some tips that worked for me:
- I applied grease (I use lucas oil xtra - the green stuff - works very good for everything that needs grease) on the threads of the spokes only. I did this by holding all spokes for one side of the wheel in a clump, then lightly fanning it so I could dip them in a small tube of grease. I wiped the excess on the side of the tube and a paper towel. No mess at all doing it this way, and the grease will remain good for years. The secure lock nipples don't loosen from normal riding so no need for anything like linseed oil or even worse - thread locker.
- If you do not want to stand on the side of your wheel to stress the spokes, you can simply use your hand to squeeze two pairs of spokes, one on each side of the wheel. A towel or gloves make it less painful, but the result is properly stressed spokes.
- One thing this guide didn't get into was the necessity of dishing the wheel before truing. Dishing means moving the rim to one side or the other in relation to the center of the hub, and both disk-brake hubs and all rear hubs must be dished. The way I did it was by tightening all nipples until threads were hidden, then doing half a turn tighter on the drive side and half a turn looser on the non-drive side. For the front wheel, which is disk brake, I tightened the side with the brake mount and loosened the non-braking side. I did this until the dish was correct, which I basically eyeballed by mounting the wheels to my bike. No need for a stand IMO.
- Here is where I have a "big tip" that should make the overall process easier. Before dishing or truing your spokes, look up their max tension rating. Mine are rated at 130 kgf. Then, decide how much you want to tension them and use a tension gauge to set the tension as evenly as possible across all spokes. In my case, I went with 95-100 kgf for the rear drive side, 85 kgf rear non-drive side. Fronts were around 85-90 kgf brake side, 75 or so for non-brake side. In other words, your max tension will only be on the drive side in the case of the rear, or the braking side in the case of the front. If you have non-disc rims then the front can be even on both sides and the rear only biased to the drive side. By using the tension gauge and adjusting the spokes by a 1/4 turn - 1/2 turn each until I hit my target range of tension, truing was very easy.
- The way I trued my wheels was by mounting them onto the frame and I used a spare zip tie to detect "wobbles". Even spoke tension is more important than having ultra-perfect roundness in my opinion, but I was able to true my wheels in this manner getting them to the point where there is no perceptible wobble...and the starting point was only about 3 mm +/-. Obviously, different wheel/spoke/hub combinations will affect results.
So if you skip reading all that, the main takeaway is use a spoke tension meter to set your target tensions first, stress the spokes by squeezing them or however you want, then recheck tension and proceed to truing. I also verified my after-truing tension and was pleasantly surprised to see that tension was very close across both sides of both wheels.
Alpha, that is the most well thought and written guide to a logical approach on strong wheel building. 👌I will save this for myself and future reference.
I have used the hand squeeze technique with good results 😊 great tip on spoke tension goals to shoot for,👍 and the concept of wheel dish based on spoke threads hidden flush with the nipples is genius. 🤓
Only thing I can add is to tension spokes 1/8 of a turn or more past the desired amount and back the spoke wench off that 1/8 turn to your final setting. This really seems to help prevent spoke wrap and the wheel stays true better when you first ride it.
On older builds that I retrue, first I turn the affected spoke nipple until I hear a "POP" 💥 that signals the nipples are "broke free" from the lindseed oils grip and turning independent of the spoke. Then i begin to true the wheel. Like mentioned above, this helps prevents spoke wrap and keeps the retrued wheel in check much better the first time you ride on the wheelset.
Happy trails my friend! 🙌
He did dish it though.
Ali, that was the best single explanation of this magical process. I’ve always been comfortable truing wheels (since I’m really good at un-truing them😁) but I’d like to try building a set for myself. Much respect 👊🏻
I have a collection of mangled rims I now want to practice with. Oh, the fun times ahead!
Trail Breaker I found wheel building to be the best way to learn wheel repair and maintenance. This way you learn all the dynamics going on
This is the best lacing video on the internet sir I watch it every time I do wheels because I do this only like once a year. Will share every time for others wanting to learn.
Superb tutorial Ali, especially on video as opposed to being in the room. Crystal clear.
The shoe was a surprising addition. I will give it a go on some enduro wheels. So far the most extreme thing I\ve used is tapping the shoulders with a rubber&plastic mallet. Great guide, awesomely detailed.
Thank you so much for this guide. Such a fail safe method being explained in a simple way. I used this guide to build two mtb wheels for the first time at work today. Super satisfying.
Best wheel building video by far! Thanks for this Ali!
Hi Ali! Thanks for the video & instructions. Just built my first wheel with my old hub & rim. Your video was great & super easy to follow. Keep it up!
Great video, I use this when I teach in class. Great job!
"you have to lube the nipples!" - ali Clarkson 2018
Nipple count, anyone??
I have 2
"watch out for that splash back" & "best not to do it in your living room"
good one
I say only lube the nipples if that's what she likes.
In my former life, I was a motorcycle mechanic. In those years, I laced and trued many wheels. The lacing and truing are similar but there are definite differences. Ali, you made this about as clear as anyone could. Thank you. I will now attempt to lace some wider rims on my existing hubs. Thanks for sharing. You have a new subscriber...........
Built one following your process, great advice and luckily had most the tools needed, thanks a bunch! Its so satisfying riding your own custom build wheels!
Best wheelbuilding vid I've seen , great detail , awesome
You must not have seen much then cos he used alu nipples instead of brass ones which most self respecting wheel builders will.
@@suminshizzles6951 Can you give a suggestion for your top pick video on wheelbuilding then, instead? Would be greatly appreciated. :-)
Cool video Ali! 👍
Finding this 2+ yrs after you posted, nice! Thanks for the tutorial. Very well Done!
Not the first tutorial I've watched on this subject but the first after which I actually think I understand how to do it, thanks very much Ali :-). Now I think I actually have a path to having the kind of wheels I want but can't buy ready made anywhere, and hopefully even cheaper since I should be able to source some second hand hubs for them, this is awesome.
Thank you for sharing your method of building. The stomp technique was like pulling the strings of guitar in restringing.
This is amazing! Thank you! I had no idea that standing on the spokes was a thing :O
Even without me attempting to build a wheel this is probably the most understandable wheel build tutorial I've seen. Great job!
EXCELLENT TUTORIAL ALI! I never saw such a great wheel-building tutorial - and the tricks and shortcuts show your experience. All kudos to you. You are the wheel-building star!
I currently don't plan to build any wheels (but maybe true one or two?) but watched anyway, your teaching was so clear and watchable.
every time he says "nipples" we drink!
Don't forget to lube them!
thank you so much for this video
Best explanation I've ever heard. Laceing a wheel has always been voodoo to me. But after that I'll build my own from now on. I always have to settle for rims I don't like to get hubs that fit my bike. Thank you sir.
This was awesome! I'm considering putting a Sturmey Archer internal gear hub on my favorite old Shcwinn cruiser, either a 3 speed cable shift + coaster brake, or a 2 speed kick shift + coaster brake. I have NEVER worked on wheels before. Your video makes it look possible for a novice to attempt. Thank youso much for the information!
I'm thinking about replacing the hub on one of my unicycles!
This will help!!!!
See so many wheel building experts out there dishing out comments and thinks they should be listened to just because they have been in the industry for a long time. 15-20 years doesn't mean jack if you are not constantly exploring, innovating, changing and opening yourself up to new ideas of doing things. You could be at your job for 20 years and yes you certainly have the tenure and experience but it doesn't mean you are any good at it. Mechanics is certainly another example, so many senior mechanics out in the streets each of them having their own shop but one has a better reputation with better business and happier customers than the other. You get my point.
Re some of these veterans: as my welding instructor said "first you do it wrong then you perfect it".
Best video on building a wheel I've seen. Uses exactly the method I've been using for years (Apart from the stress reliving, I use leather gloves and squeeze pairs of parallel spokes together HARD instead). Interestingly the lacing used here is wrong according to a lot of wheel building guides, (They recommend lacing that looks the same on both flanges rather than mirrored lacing as demonstrated), but there's no structural reason to do it hat way, as well as it being harder to lace the spokes. In fact with disk brake loading it makes a lot of sense that the spokes should be mirrored as the rim moves sideways less under heavy braking loads if the spokes taking the extra tension are both to the outside or inside of the hub flanges rather than one outside and one inside.
The requirements for absolute trueness are less these days thanks to disk brakes too, so one handy trick I use is to leave the spokes so the flats of the nipples align with the plane of the wheel (This gives a 1/4 turn resolution for adjustments which I reckon is good enough). Doing this means you can visually inspect your wheel for loose spokes by checking the nipple alignment...
Thanks for putting this together for us Ali. It does look much easier than I imagined.
I've been waiting for this video for a while. I just got my cheap Chinese truing stand and have been looking for some good tips from a pro!!!
make sure the stand is true... i've heard stories of people using a cheap truing stand that resulted in the wheels sit diagonally when installed in a good frame (the truing stand flanges were a fraction of a degree twisted, and it showed when the wheels were installed on the bikes.
Alex Nicolaou Anything is better than using zipties on my frame. It worked but it was a pain in the ass.(Also I don't have really expensive bikes) As long as I use the same reference point it should be good. A static point along a rotating object will be the same. If the 2 measuring points are different I'll just true one side and flip the wheel over to use the same reference point (I ride single speed and my hubs are centered in the wheels so I don't have to worry about dishing)
Just think about how wheels work and how a truing stand works.
Park Tool or go home.
Any stand is fine. You dont even ‘need’ a dishing tool, although its nice to have, just flip the wheel.
You pay more for convenience and efficiency.
Ive owned the Park TS 2 for many years. I build lots of wheels. Its one of my favorite tools! But my homemade, simple and portable 1 armed stand works fine on the tailgate of my truck!
Stressing the spokes is 100% one of the most important things you can do. It can be done before truing when all the spokes are just snugged down fairly tight. Reason I do it before any truing is cuz then I only have to true once instead of twice. Been building bmx wheels since 1986 and never had an issue with any of my wheels doing it this way.
What lube did you use btw? Appears a liquid lube, yes? Normally I lay a small dab of grease or anti-seize on a paper towel, spin the spoke thread side flat thru it, then on another paper towel lay it thread side flat and spin so only grease is within the deep parts of the threads. This eliminates any gobs of grease getting anywhere other than it needs to be. I'll do up all spokes before starting the build.
Kool to see different wheel build styles. As long as you end up with a true and lasting wheel is what matters.
Lube he used looks like a Joes chain lube
That was the best explanation of dish that I've ever heard. What a great video!
This has been so helpful. I've use this video and "The Bicycle Wheel Book" time and time again for reference. Thanks for taking the time and putting this video together Ali.
This is rubbish. He used some cheap ass alu nipples. Brass all the way. With linseed oil. This guy is a muppet. Anybody that uses alu nipples needs to have their head examined.
Gonna build my weels by my own after this video! What instruments do I have? Well, I have a shoe... Good for start...
I changed mtb rim 4 weeks ago.. this will be easy i thought, 4 hours later i was done =)
Very clear, concise, tutorial video, which has made building my first set of wheels easy (even though I went straight to a posh set of rims and hubs!)
So PRO. I had seen how wheels are set on the truing stand to true them but I had not idea how to true them at all. It’s an art! Please keep posting videos about bikes! Just subscribed!
am I a child for laughing out loud when he said "Lube the nipples"?
That shoe thing for stressing looks really drastic! Hehe, anyway, nice job, man.
Greatly appreciate the tutorial. Just replaced the hoop on my rear wheel and I feel confident in my work. Love your work.
The best, simplest and most concise advice. I wish that I had come to this site first. Puts all the rest in the shade😊
I was curious about how wheels were build... I had a heart attack when you stood on it. Man, they are strong.
I want to build a wheel now
I have a peace of shit BMX I use to practice technique, I think one of its wheels are getting taken apart and rebuilt lol
You fucking dont m8
edward doughty he really doesnt dude
You can gladly build mine I wouldn't mind
Do it once and you got wheel-building skill with you forever. 👍
Ooh, I’ve been wating for this! I have built two sets of wheels and have thought I didn’t stress the first pair well enough. Well, seems now that I could’ve stressed also the second set a whole lot more! 😅 Thanks for the tips!
thanks for the clearest explanation. I've laced a lot, more than twenty maybe, but I've never thought I've built a wheel strong enough. It is really a hand craft job needed to practice again and again.
I always love the shirts you are wearing in your videos :D
Only thing that's missing is the Aladdin or Harem Pants :P
Me too love the cat shirts
Hey Ali Clarkson! I built my first wheel in 1986! Thanks for the tips! Ride ride ride!
Been waiting for a full on guide to building wheels. Finally!!
Mission accomplished! I just laced my first wheel. Thanks for the great video.
I'm about to do my first build and this is by far the best "how to" I've seen. Really straight forward! Thanks!
Question, do you oil/grease pro lock nipples? I know you shouldn't as per Dt swiss but still want your opinion
Sorry instructions weren’t clear I taped my dog to my ceiling
Hahahaha
I'd say thats the best instructions unclear Ive ever seen
just tackled my second ever wheelbuild, and i gotta say all of this stuff was SUPER helpful, the first and second time around.
i even bought a truing stand so i wouldnt have to pay a shop to true and dish them. (saved a BUNCH of money)
ill go on a ride on them in a day or two!
Best wheel building vid I've ever seen!
That shirt is sick, where can I get one of those.
15:46
Easy peasy lemon squeezy. Hold my beer!
I built 3 wheels based on your tutorial already. Tomorrow 4th one. Every time I watch it again to make sure I'm not missing something. I'm not a pro so after some time I forget some steps :). Really really helpful. Thanks.
My favorite wheelbuilding video so far.
I don't want to rag on your wheel build, however, your mirror spoke on the left is facing the wrong direction. For the twisting force applied by the brake, the inside left spoke needs to be facing the back of the bike, this will ensure the spokes are loaded correctly when drive force and braking forces are applied. I understand this is a beginners tutorial however it's far simpler to place all spokes in the hub as doing this will eliminate the need to bend and twist spokes around other spokes to place them into the rim, as bending the spokes will weaken them leading to premature wear and failure. plus it is far faster to build a wheel when all spokes are in the hub to begin. I apologise if I sound like a dick, not my intention, more so just wanted to point out some areas for improvement
After 21 years of building wheels, I have noticed on some wheels the lacing direction is crucial to the integrity of the wheel, so I always build with that in mind.
You have made a lot of valid points in your video and given some good tips also.
There are many ways to build wheels and everyone has their own way to do it.
I used to build wheels using the method you use in the vid but found it to be very slow, While working as a wheel builder for a company I have learnt that lacing the whole hub is a faster way and there is no possibility of having to bend a spoke into place.
Once again I don't want to sound like in bagging your work but just offering an opinion on possible areas for potential improvement and a bombproof build.
Best regards
pete
Sorry but it makes no difference, it’s like saying if I stand on that ant it could effect the future, there is nothing wrong. At all with Ali’s wheel build (that’s with just 10 years experience building and riding wheels)
I though the inside going back could touch the rotor under heavy braking. Has ali says theres no standar on this.
Depends on the dominating force. For a road racing bicycle with rimbrakes for example, Ali did the correct direction because mainforce is on the driveside. It's said that the forces of discbrakes are even stronger than the forces of the driveside and in this case its the opposite direction like dimbag said. But i did my 27,5 discwheels the same direction Ali did in the vid and never got any probs with this wheelbuild for years now....
For a rim-braked rear wheel, innies should undoubtedly be pullers and outies pushers, thus causing all spokes to flex inwards (towards the wheel's centre-line) under drive and braking, and minimising the chance of the derailleur pinging the spokes in bottom gear. *Achieve this by inserting the very first drive-side spoke to the right of the valve hole and rotate the hub in the drive direction (clockwise).*
For a disc-braked rear wheel, there's a design conflict. On the one hand, driving forces dictate that innies should be pullers as before. On the other hand, disc-braking forces act on the spokes in the opposite sense - under braking pullers relax and pushers tighten and spokes laced properly by drive/rim-braking considerations will flex outwards(away from the wheel's centre-line). Additional considerations are (a) that there is now a disc caliper, not just a derailleur, against which the spokes might ping in any gear, (b) that braking forces are likely to be greater than drive forces.
So, all things considered, it's probably safer to lace a disc-braked rear wheel with innies as pushers and outies as pullers. *Achieve this by inserting the very first drive-side spoke to the left of the valve hole and rotate the hub opposite to the drive direction (anti-clockwise).*
Can you discuss the pro's cons of 2 across, 3 across 4 across.
Long ago I was told to always use brass nipples, as they don't bind... comment
That oil you use on the nipples, which is it.
Spoke tension, is there logic/math behind it based on rider weight or something?
The spoke crossings help to keep the spokes close to tangent to the hub flange. The rule is maximum cross=#of spokes divided by 9.
Brass nipples are harder than aluminum, so they are less likely to be mushed up by the spoke threads. Brass is also self-lubricating and more corrosion resistant.
Spoke threads can be treated with any number of things:
Wheelsmith Spoke Prep (like Blue loctite)
Grease
Oil
Anti seize
Boiled linseed oil
The latter is the choice of many because it's inexpensive, lubricates well, and then solidifies and acts as a thread locker. But careful with it! Rags soaked with linseed will catch fire. Dispose of anything soaked with it, or store in a fireproof can.
No magic to spoke tension. High and even. Two rules to live by! But how high is usually 120kgf (less on rear NDS). 120kgf is the max for many components, including Chris King hubs. Butted spokes are ideal.
This is the easiest explanation for rims I’ve ever seen. If I should ever need to build one, I’m definitely referencing this video!
Never built a wheel before, followed this video for 2 x 451 28 hole aero wheel build and no problems at all after a good few miles - thank you Ali.
Good video but the stress test made me cringe like "uhhh nooo don't do it!!" hahaha!
Its probably an ok method, but theres other methods to stress relieve such as squeezing the near parallel spokes. I like to do it without removing wheel from the truing stand. Saves time when youre busy!!
I stress relieve three ways:
First, cold set spokes against the flanges, then push in at each cross.
Second, pull parallel spokes during tensioning and truing.
Third, sideways force on both sides around the wheel to relieve spoke wind-up for final high-tolerance true. This requires the appropriate touch - less for narrow 100C wheels, more for wider, smaller wheels.
I find it difficult to eliminate all the spoke wind-up just using the parallel spoke pull method in the truing stand. (And at final true, I manually over-rotate the nipple and then go back to unwind the spoke so I am not adding more wind up to the wheel.)
wished the music was lower...
I never even noticed the music
Ali Clarkson i am sorry i am not a native english speaker so i am having problem keeping up...
captions bro
Ali Clarkson you are English so auto generated captions actually work 😀
The music level was fine on my system. It could just be the individuals speaker setup or headphones.
I bought a new set of hubs at the beginning of the year and I put the front hub on just today, after watching this video of course. BIG THANKS, Ali Clarkson.
It’s really cool that you are teaching us how to build up bikes on our own. Such a cool skill to have
When he just straight up stepped on the fresh wheel I swear I saw my soul leave my body
my heart skipped a beat
He has high quality parts, don't do it on a budget
@@julz19 budget or not I think you have to do it, otherwise the spokes will snap in place later on during use, and lose tension.
Ali how do you know how long the spokes and nipple should be? Is there a guide?
Trial and error, sometimes you get lucky and find someone on the internet who has built the same hub/rim combo.
Sometimes you find a friendly mechanic who'll know.
In my experience formula rarely work and guides are usually wrong lol.
I kept a list of every wheel I ever built, so there was a good chance I had the lengths already or could make a decent guesstimation.
Watch the video I more time
Dt Swiss Spoke Calculator.
Look it up!
I always used dt swiss and found the calculator was very hit and miss.
DT calculator is spot on. It's trigonometry, double check your measurements or the measurements you are using. The math behind spoke calculators can be found in a book called the bicycle wheel, by Jobst Brant.
You explain everything very well! By far the best tutorial I've come across especially since you go over aesthetics like logo placement! Thank you!!
This was crazy satisfying to watch
Not to be the annoying person who are saying you're doing it incorrect. But you're missing one very important step in a wheel build process, and that's figuring out if it's a left or right drilled rim. And building the wheel with that in mind.
When you're not doing this, 50% of your wheel builds will be incorrectly build and go out of true a lot easier than usual.
Valid point!
@@Ali_Clarkson Other than that, I'd say this is the best guide out there! :)
@Muhammad Izzat Hi! Well, almost all rims have the holes drilled slightly at an angle either left or right, this pattern alternates each hole. When you're building the wheel, you have to make the right flange (right side of the hub), connect only to the "right side drilled holes". and the same with the left side.
How to do it, is not something I can explain over text unfortunately :(
The offset holes are usually pretty obvious. They are mentioned in Sheldon Brown's instructions as well as Jobst Brandt's book, "The Bicycle Wheel". Those are how I taught myself.
If the intention of the holes isn't obvious to a would be builder then maybe they should just leave it to us professionals!
But Ive always said we can often learn best by learning from our own mistakes!
Until you brought out the shoe, I was not so sure about your expertise.
Great video. Built my first wheel today, though I made a couple mistakes and ended up taking it all apart once it was fairly easy thanks to this vid!!
Best tutorial on RUclips. Thank you so much
300th view
Good job on the vid I’ve been trying to learn to build wheels but I couldn’t get it, i watched ur vid and learned it the same day, keep em coming
That was/is pretty awesome my man, great vid, great build and some real good info on how to build your own set, thank you so much!!! Cheers Bert
Awesome tips. You cleared up a few things ive been slightly doing wrong for years!