RIP Virgil. I said it 7 months ago in my other comment here, but this is Virgil magnum opus. He was goin full force in this show like he never going to make another collection. Battling cancer in private and working hard in the background. He truly inspires a generation🙏🙏🙏
It’s kind of bitter sweet how this show is his best but one of his last, it’s almost like he knew this was going to be his last one and he wanted to go all out before he was gone… RIP to the Goat
the art heist part about stealing and borrowing is so amazing and brilliant especially coming from virgil, it’s almost like he’s responding to all the critics
Facts, but still, we can’t deny theres things about Virgil don’t like. He seriously will get Jordan’s, change the shoe lace, and write his name on them for 10x the price. Even pyrex was that bad
@@MultiLuckychris this is a bit disingenuous, if you have seen some shoes from "The Ten", it's the small added details, changing of fabrics, adding some Off White flair that added a new twist to icon shoes. By your logic, many collaboration s are horrible, the Travis Scott 1s are literally just a big reverse swoosh
@@BenedictAllen_ Exactly, and I understand that many things can be referenced in the visual arts as a dedication to someone/some thing. Like the way he did with Mies Van Der Rohe (which was amazing), and when you do it like that, it looks good and can be appreciated. However, Virgil takes that to the extreme in some projects like the10, to the point where it’s a total knock-off. I really like Virgil, and a lot of his creativeness. Except for the works he copycat’d on.
@@MultiLuckychris the jordans, unless they have the LV branding on them, were not priced 10x more expensive than their non collaboration counterparts. Blame the resellers for that, not him.
On the concept of the snake oil part of the presentation it could be a gentle poke at him self as a lot of people would agree that Virgil is a snake oil salesman since most would deem him to be a great marketer than designer or ( hype conjuror if you will ) in which abloh walks in between ( the grey area ) idk just my theory
I'M IN SHOCK! So many references, concepts and layers that were beautifully put together in this show. Make us appreciate so much more of his work, still can't believe what happened fr... Thank you for this video Bliss, you're the best! LLV 🕊
Thanks so much! Credit has to go to Virg ofc. If you like this kind of multi-layered meaning in fashion, check out the recent video I did on Glenn Marten’s Y-Project 💫💫
Those boots are amazing and I love the concept for them. I think Virgil doesn’t get enough credit for how detailed everything he does is. Forget the creativity aspect entirely, simply the PATIENCE and WORK ETHIC to do it. Truly admirable.
I love the analysis of reuse in Virgil's work. It's so easy to dismiss it as "theft" or "laziness" when Virgil is showing us, through both the collection, short movie, and the goddamn book of show notes, that A LOT of thought went into it. I understand people may not like the aesthetic, but you have to appreciate the artistry that goes behind a fashion show that's feels both resistant and indifferent to fashion "insiders"' rules (his "theft") and desires (labelling any of his work as "streetwear"). Thanks for sharing Bliss!!
@@ti2809 sure! i suppose then you'd also have to consider sampling in music, presenting readymades, or even upcycling clothes to be "stealing with extra steps". originality in art is a paradox!
@@jcg_001 I understand that as a criticism of him. It’s definitely felt like he’s crossed lines in the past, but I’m not sure I’m seeing any “stealing” in this show
The part of this discussion that draws my interest is the, "Copying vs Original work", concept. Especially, when it as expressed as a value. In my time in the fashion industry I often talked and wrote about my love for originality versus my hatred for copying. But, copying must be distinguished from reinvention and reinterpretation. The distinction to me comes from intent, there are many many designers who copy without shame or because their job depends on it. But the ones who create something new composed from something known have sufficiently processed the concept through the, "you filter". That is to say that their unique perspective and techniques are sufficiently present in the design so that it is/seems previously unseen. I think Virgil and his atelier do that most of the time. Virgil's point, (if it is his point I suppose), about freedom to borrow, use, reinterpret, etc...is a good one. But, I don't think most in the business fashion are mature enough to know when inspiration turns into ripping off.
Seriously one of your most brilliant analysis videos yet was such a great insight on a show that I knew had many layers of depth then I knew met the eye Thank you!!
I am not a fashion person...but I have learned so much about fashion because of you Bliss! Thank you for your in-depth and thoughtful videos...also your humor! Because of you, I look. at fashion and designers so much differently now. I just want to say THANK YOU for expanding my world.
This collection is a masterpiece. It might be hard to understand it and process it at first but by reading the notes and diving into the though process behind it, you can really appreciate the genius behind it. I really love how Virgil can translate actual abstract ideas into the real world, and be coherent still
Little late to the analysis here, but another thing i noticed in regards to Act 2 “Black Box” that wasn’t mentioned was the airplane motifs seen through out the film. When a plane crashes, the black box is whats recovered from the crash to tell those investigating what happened that lead to the crash. It tracks everything the airplane does during the flight and is the biggest priority when they plane first crashes. Perhaps the suitcase (juxtaposed to white rather then black - A theme Virgil loves) is given to the people in the film to then spread the word and help them get into “Paris” (or fashion in this case) as Virgil has been seen doing for inspiring individuals on his website. He’s given the “black box” to the people to help them understand what’s done in his work so they too can take flight. Interested on your thoughts.
Hi bliss! Im someone who has always had a hard time w fashion growing up, being shamed for not performing feminity and having clothes as this rocket science exam of what i fail to execute and feeling like a laughing stock. I have slowly learned thru old friends how to enjoy exploring costumes and just mere expression but i really feel like your channel was my true tipping point. I started with your virgil abloh videos and immediately got hooked and particularly enjoying the margiela series. I feel like you gave me an accessible joy and appreciation with the multi-faceted dimensions of fashion. From references, craft, history, being cool rather than just pretty. I have legit been slackjawed with some of your haunting examples of ingenuity, imagination, and protest! I finally felt like a genuine FAN of some fcking clothes that i was too enthused by its subtleties and energies that it bleeds into how i construct my outfits, overriding past fears. I also feel like you espouse a genuine relating to the craft of clothes making (history, journalism, buying vintage) that i cant help but feel like ive had such a HIGHLY competent friend welcome me to understanding fashion week. I was so surprised when i suddenly recognized some brands and references on some of my fave kpop idols and i realized that i actually grasp the language enough to have my own experience, opinion and appreciation that’s not overtly explained or shoved to my face. I JUST GOT IT!! And i feel so happy. And i know this aint fashion therapy or what, but i legit had fashion as one of my biggest blocks in terms of “i cants”/ overall shame) that fashion being something i enjoy is going on my best of 2022 memories list. I SERIOUSLY camp on your videos when i feel sick/ when eating alone. I subscribed for a bit (patreon) to directly support you but also wantes to seriously specify my deep gratitude towards you. You are one of the definite gems on the internet i am a serious fan! 💖💖💖i love you lots - maria
My favorite moment in the video is the explanation of the distinction between neo & archetypes. I think Virgil goes onto translate this distinction and you do a wonderful job of elucidating that. This truly feels like a narrative driven show and this video helps me understand the narrative more deeply
I'd say ¨snake oil¨ refers to his main theme of ¨challenging the established archetypes¨, and how it's meant to *change* how the world sees them, while Virgil knows that it won't really change anything.... the act of challenging performed by the show is itself is snake oil.
Bliss, Thank you for this vide, you dissected it very well, the way this show was executed from the references to the pieces themselves they all mean something deeper than the appearance just completely blows my mind.
I like how Virgil represents himself in more than one way. Most obviously using fabrics stemming from his heritage and most interestingly describing himself as a thief (even if it’s more getting inspired by others and borrowing elements). This gets more emphasised with the music and sampling you described. I think it shows how he accepts and embraces his way of designing pieces and then shows the public, most importantly the critics, that it isn’t necessarily bad and may even result in bigger success. Furthermore he wants to show that being such a „thief“ doesn‘t mean he lacks creativity. Also I like the philosophy of his 3% rule.
Wonderful analysis ! I was not very fond of the show because I don't particularly like the collection but watching videos about the show analysis and understanding the artistic vision, the themes and ideas of culminative fashion, inclusion, interpretation of art in fashion, I am mesmerized. A really powerful show, this one !
I read that Snake Oil can be defined as a "Scam" or "deceptive marketing". So I'm thinking Virgil is saying how the industry is dishonest in a way or just not the way it seems from the outside looking in. Like everyone isn't as original as people make them out to be.
I really really love how you really go in depth in this explantions i love it (too many really), I appreciate the collection more because of this, thank you
I think an important component to "stealing" isn't so much that a designer (such as Abloh) is taking to claim as theirs in a vacuum; they take knowing that others will notice from where it came as one part homage and another part ownership of something they love. For example, the soft trunks and petit malle bags referencing LV trunks, which have, for me, inspired me to make things of my own. I don't want to make LV knockoffs, but I do want people to see my inspiration unmistakably.
Snake Oil - Likely referring to the fact that the roles given to us in society, that Virgil presents in the first act, Buisnessman, Artist etc, are not able to free marginalised people because these roles are rigid and only echoe inhereted opressive roles, hence the snake oil. Whats sold by society is that these roles will set you free but It's only through mixing up these roles, as demonstrated in the final act, where freedom truly lies. I think what scares people about Virgil is that he's foreshadowing how the role of a creative director is changing, who it belonges to and what that role does.
I think the breadth of the art heist both in scale and in history really emphasizes how the art heist in the show snowballs to a point where anyone willingly participating in the context, both in real life music and culture and in the show's reflection of Paris, is also taking part in the sharing their work. The fact that ESG has such a storied history as a sample on which iconic songs built on while not taking away from the value of anything which took inspiration from it is really important. Fantastic work
I think that the title snake oil is depicting how in a black community we tend to use different variations of outfits like fashion are as in like painting and drawing singing rack making music as an outlet to escape but in reality it doesn’t really give us an escape it doesn’t heal the issue!
I've always considered myself to be someone who doesn't really care about fashion, either personal or artistic (I'm a very "sure, just throw on a black t-shirt and some cheap jeans" guy), but for some reason RUclips recommended your channel to me and I've been watching it for the last two hours. This is stuff is way more interesting than I thought it was.
I’m so glad to hear that. Fashion often gets pushed off as petty and silly, but I feel there’s some profound gems in there. I’m honored you would give it a shot. I recommend checking out my episode for Margiela Spring 1990. Absolutely wild story in there 💫💫
I think the reference to the Barcelona house is another reference to pushing boundaries and setting up constructs and archetypes only to break them and change the way that they are often perceived as well as even the idea of combining influence. As the Barcelona house seemingly uses a grid pattern for the metal structural beams but also because of the beams week integrity, is also reliant on the walls throughout the house that don’t perfectly align with the grid structure. The house itself pushes boundaries of conceived plans and classical plans and zones. I’ll link of the video that better explains it, I’m not an architect (yet at least haha, who knows maybe :) )
I'm a bit late to the party, but wanted to add anyways: in theatre a black box is a theatre space where no light is coming in. You can use the space to transform it into whatever you want, without outside interference. Ideally, a black box is also soundproof. I don't know if anyone finds this interesting, but for me it really adds to the space that Virgil is showing
Maybe it's just because of where you placed the elements in the video, but my first thought on the meaning of "Snake Oil" was linked to the theme of deconstruction of archetypes throughout the show, subverting the images and stereotypes which are "sold" to us and shedding light on what is false or incomplete about them.
It makes me so happy that this video has been out for this long and people are still submitting their interpretation of that theme. Thank you so much for sharing with us 💫💫
@@BlissFoster I've only taken an interest in fashion recently, so your archive's been extremely useful for familiarising myself with the Big Names and what their viewpoint and influence has been.
I feel like it’s ultimately due to the platform and also funding.... financially I would imagine he has so much more freedom/ability to care. And then in terms of name and global impact, LV has a greater grasp on the public and mainstream so his message and craft arguably can go further.. but I would hope he can start to funnel this back into off white
@@brittanybelo1361 I think he is treating offwhite like a diffusion label. Even though LV also sells really well, offwhite he just makes what he knows people will want - graphic hoodies, dresses, flannels, trucker jackets, etc. I think he sees the opportunity he has as the first black designer for LV and wants to prove himself and make a stride towards a more accepting fashion industry. He realizes that it takes his full attention to make good on that promise at LV and probably has little to do with the design process for offwhite
@@BlissFoster Thank you, I must've glanced over it lol. May I ask what's your fave scent? It's a thing that interests me the most when I'm watching someones videos lol
I think sauls poem is a refrence how as soon as we step into the wnvironment / are born into certain archetypes ,cultures,etc and the next part is like now that i am here i recognize that as a (using this as an example) bpack person inspire and influence the cultures that are passed around...like the bags ? Idk this is all head cannon
To answer your Snake Oil question, my reading of that ties directly into the shows references to Cowboys - specifically Black cowboys. The origin of the word snake oil comes from a Frontier Era trend of ‘Doctors’ promising miraculous health results from their Oils and Tonics, often attributed to foreign or dangerous animals (i.e Snake Oil). As we know, these rarely worked, and these self proclaimed doctors would flee their area the moment they sold out their stock. As time progressed, even though these Doctors were largely white venture capitalists, the term Snake Oil has become associated with Black/Natural Hair and Wellness products (i.e Butters, Oils and Waxes). Something that originated as predatory capitalism from White men around the time of cowboys has now become an allegory for black peoples necessities. This could be a reference to the clothing industry, which often follows a similar trend.
The question it's not about originality , if you like someone he/she makes a reference, if you don't like someone he/she makes a copy, it's like Pierre Bordieu says "les circuits de consécration sociale, sera d'autant plus efficace plus la distance sociale de l'objet consacrée". Just have fun with it.
Oil Snake is the concept of Luxury. Virgil Abloh is the first Black designer to enter the world of high fashion, and the first to take it into the present ( art world). Abloh is bringing new Ideas, is breathing new life into a dead industry. He is doing what Warhol did in Art.
@@BlissFoster just wanted to give you your flowers now! You’re the best high fashion youtuber , hands down. I love your analysis and the sense of community you “foster”. See what I did there lol. But anyways I love your channel and if you ever decide to make clothes I will support you
on snake oil....could it align with the "myth vs. reality" theme we see in play? as we enter the black box at the beginning of act 2, does this signify a recognition of reality? a breakthrough? (recognizing the true form of the snake oil that is our implied fashion bias). real freedom!
Not a thing we create is new to the world. Maybe it's a discovery to our eyes But everything under the sun has already been done once before. Reinvention of creation is how humans evolve into what can be perceived as a better version of humanity. We are all connected by Love which I consider to be the source of our creation. You cannot create anything without love because to search for love is to search for a better feeling, a new feeling and experience. If you appreciate humanity and life enough, you'd respect and appreciate all emotions because you can't have happiness without sadness and vice versa. You also feel appreciation for happiness more when you've been through sadness and vice versa. So even though people believe they have ownership over something creation belongs to all as we are all connected. It's pride, money, greed and other factors that make us as humans possessive of what we bring to the world. But at the end of the day we are all here for our evolution as people. Our experiences of humanity make us want to create. We show what we have created to make others feel an emotion that unlocks a thought, and when we think we grow.
That's why reinvention in the current world today is imperative to our humanity because when we blend and fuse cultures, ideas, and thoughts together we will eventually all come to the realization that we are all spirits having a human experience. We are all Love.
The way I interpreted it was that this collection was personal to him because it represents his own critics. Criticisms that his collections were not worthy enough just because he did not come from a traditional fashion design background and he studied architecture. As if he is saying, ‘Oh how absurd! As if my untraditional background means I am automatically devalued!’ This collection asks the question about whether people can stereotype being a fashion designer into a box. To deprogram a stereotypical way of thinking as society has taught us to. People should not define certain roles as concrete, roles should be more open to interpretation, as Virgil has shown. He is successful in his own right without conforming to stereotypes. Regardless he might not have the traditional background as someone like Kim Jones, but he also a great designer in his own way, as someone who can communicate and connect with many people.
I feel like Abloh tries to overcompensate for his previous collections and projects that were quite honestly pretty bland and pseudointellectual for the most part. Now he goes for maximalist approach with enormous amount of styles, cuts and performances which seems a little bit excessive for my taste. Also the length of the media materials is so large that it drags on. Hopefully he will find balance further on between these two polar opposites
@@PrincipalSkinner3190 Exactly, it’s interesting that he went in a more sophisticated direction but the word salad he used to throw around to back up his rather basic designs makes it a bit tryhard in my eyes
I think he knows that he's no Wales Bonner, and I think he really wants to be seen as an intellectual designer, hence the overcompensating. But I believe he should just either embrace the fact that he was invited to Louis Vuitton to bring the younger demographic with him that is not necessarily interested in the meaning of fashion and are more into the social aspects of wearing LV, or if he wants to be perceived as an intellectual, he needs to actually start working with young intellectual designers and take that risk with not hitting the sale targets
@@KC-rm9ws I don't think he wants to be seen as an intellectual designer, I think he knows what he is first: a creative director of Louis Vuitton. This discussion around his legitimacy has gone on so long because he has chosen his words carefully. If you think he would get legitimacy by "actually working with young intellectual designers," you also need to re-examine what the legitimacy you're describing is, who it was made by and for...
@@FushiHD I understand what you're saying, but I believe the excessive notes speak for themselves. We can have different views of what intellectual fashion is, but in my humble opinion, making a book of show notes, that has pages and pages explaining the meaning of certain words in dictionary manner is just not it. My point being - by doing the show notes and choosing such figure as James Baldwin for his inspiration, he does want to be seen as somewhat intellectual. James Baldwin is definitely not on everyones reading list and if you decide to draw inspiration from a figure that is not widely known to Virgils usual buyer, means that he wants to invite a different demographic of people to be interested in his work. And here lies the issue that comes up and will come up in the future and why people continue to discuss and have critique toward his work - he is under the helm of the most powerful conglomerate in the fashion business, has all the resources to expand his team and actually deliver for both hypebeasts and people who view fashion as an art form, but he only continues to cater to one certain demographic. It has nothing to do with him choosing his words carefully, but it's about him having the possibility to deliver insane things and still working at LV as if it's OFF WHITE.
Watching this again very late. Great video, definitely my favorite collection by Virgil. Did you sit in front of the fire place because the marble sort of mirrors the onyx from the Barcelona Pavilion?👀
one aspect of "snake oil" that i haven't seen mentioned here is its tie to voodoo. new orleans voodoo was looked upon with heavy suspicion in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, particularly because it was part of slaves' culture and was thought to incite rebellion (which slave owners were deeply fearful of starting after haiti's successful slave revolt in the early nineteenth century). however, with the end of slavery, voodoo became increasingly commercialized. black people began selling various tinctures, items, etc with claims that they were 'voodoo magic' to dupe the uninformed, a practice which was criminalized in some states as it became more prevalent. "snake oil" was (to my understanding) a term for a voodoo cure that claimed to bring good fortune but was rooted in nothing; "snake oil salesman," then, was a term for a conman. nowadays, voodoo is highly commodified. "voodoo diy kits" are even sold online. from this etymology, my belief is that "snake oil" as a title for a section of this collection fits into the overarching theme of the art heist very well-what is real of new orleans voodoo as a religion is largely unknown, but certainly haitian voodoo was borne of a blend of catholocism and various african tribal religions; new orleans voodoo is heavily commodified today but what its core contains is, again, largely unknown. if any religion embodies an "art heist" better than voodoo, i don't know of it. (worth noting that i didn't read every comment, oops, and also that most of my claims here come from my recall of a short essay i wrote about six months ago. if anyone wants, i could dig up the bibliography, but if you have contradicting claims please add them because i didn't research very heavily.)
Snake Oil, I'm assuming, refers back again to that newspaper; Myth vs Reality, and Tourist vs Purist. The insider, The Snake Oil Salesman is aware of it's properties while the outsider is unaware, isolated from the truth.
@@BlissFoster Eye mean Virgil's aesthetic can appear minimal when executed but the research, significance and philosophy he's tapped into is very maximal. He often talks about "tongue and cheek," no pun intended on the quotes, which is dope because the conversation about the work kind of adds an additional look every time.
RIP Virgil. I said it 7 months ago in my other comment here, but this is Virgil magnum opus. He was goin full force in this show like he never going to make another collection. Battling cancer in private and working hard in the background. He truly inspires a generation🙏🙏🙏
It’s kind of bitter sweet how this show is his best but one of his last, it’s almost like he knew this was going to be his last one and he wanted to go all out before he was gone… RIP to the Goat
Bliss thinks he's slick, switching the set on that marbled fireplace.. I see youu 😂😂
the art heist part about stealing and borrowing is so amazing and brilliant especially coming from virgil, it’s almost like he’s responding to all the critics
Facts, but still, we can’t deny theres things about Virgil don’t like. He seriously will get Jordan’s, change the shoe lace, and write his name on them for 10x the price. Even pyrex was that bad
@@MultiLuckychris this is a bit disingenuous, if you have seen some shoes from "The Ten", it's the small added details, changing of fabrics, adding some Off White flair that added a new twist to icon shoes. By your logic, many collaboration s are horrible, the Travis Scott 1s are literally just a big reverse swoosh
@@BenedictAllen_ Exactly, and I understand that many things can be referenced in the visual arts as a dedication to someone/some thing. Like the way he did with Mies Van Der Rohe (which was amazing), and when you do it like that, it looks good and can be appreciated. However, Virgil takes that to the extreme in some projects like the10, to the point where it’s a total knock-off. I really like Virgil, and a lot of his creativeness. Except for the works he copycat’d on.
Ironic cuz Virgil steals designs from smaller designers lmao
@@MultiLuckychris the jordans, unless they have the LV branding on them, were not priced 10x more expensive than their non collaboration counterparts. Blame the resellers for that, not him.
On the concept of the snake oil part of the presentation it could be a gentle poke at him self as a lot of people would agree that Virgil is a snake oil salesman since most would deem him to be a great marketer than designer or ( hype conjuror if you will ) in which abloh walks in between ( the grey area ) idk just my theory
👍🏾 This
Off-White, right - grey area. Great rationale. I personally love and hate = ❤️
you literally look so pretty with this hairstyle
ssense model type beat
Parasocial cringe
I'M IN SHOCK!
So many references, concepts and layers that were beautifully put together in this show.
Make us appreciate so much more of his work, still can't believe what happened fr...
Thank you for this video Bliss, you're the best!
LLV 🕊
Thanks so much! Credit has to go to Virg ofc. If you like this kind of multi-layered meaning in fashion, check out the recent video I did on Glenn Marten’s Y-Project 💫💫
Those boots are amazing and I love the concept for them. I think Virgil doesn’t get enough credit for how detailed everything he does is. Forget the creativity aspect entirely, simply the PATIENCE and WORK ETHIC to do it. Truly admirable.
I love the analysis of reuse in Virgil's work. It's so easy to dismiss it as "theft" or "laziness" when Virgil is showing us, through both the collection, short movie, and the goddamn book of show notes, that A LOT of thought went into it. I understand people may not like the aesthetic, but you have to appreciate the artistry that goes behind a fashion show that's feels both resistant and indifferent to fashion "insiders"' rules (his "theft") and desires (labelling any of his work as "streetwear"). Thanks for sharing Bliss!!
@@ti2809 sure! i suppose then you'd also have to consider sampling in music, presenting readymades, or even upcycling clothes to be "stealing with extra steps". originality in art is a paradox!
@@yojiwata There's a massive difference between sampling, taking inspiration and reinterpretation and being a derivative hack like Virgil is.
@@jcg_001 I understand that as a criticism of him. It’s definitely felt like he’s crossed lines in the past, but I’m not sure I’m seeing any “stealing” in this show
The part of this discussion that draws my interest is the, "Copying vs Original work", concept. Especially, when it as expressed as a value. In my time in the fashion industry I often talked and wrote about my love for originality versus my hatred for copying. But, copying must be distinguished from reinvention and reinterpretation. The distinction to me comes from intent, there are many many designers who copy without shame or because their job depends on it. But the ones who create something new composed from something known have sufficiently processed the concept through the, "you filter". That is to say that their unique perspective and techniques are sufficiently present in the design so that it is/seems previously unseen. I think Virgil and his atelier do that most of the time. Virgil's point, (if it is his point I suppose), about freedom to borrow, use, reinterpret, etc...is a good one. But, I don't think most in the business fashion are mature enough to know when inspiration turns into ripping off.
Thanks so much for sharing, Seth 💫💫
like how he stole the main logo for offwhite?
Seriously one of your most brilliant analysis videos yet was such a great insight on a show that I knew had many layers of depth then I knew met the eye
Thank you!!
All the credit always goes to the designers. They’re the ones putting in the heavy work on this 💫💫
Gone but never forgotten. RIP Virgil ❤️
I am not a fashion person...but I have learned so much about fashion because of you Bliss! Thank you for your in-depth and thoughtful videos...also your humor! Because of you, I look. at fashion and designers so much differently now. I just want to say THANK YOU for expanding my world.
This collection is a masterpiece. It might be hard to understand it and process it at first but by reading the notes and diving into the though process behind it, you can really appreciate the genius behind it. I really love how Virgil can translate actual abstract ideas into the real world, and be coherent still
May Virgil Rest In Peace. A visionary & inspiration to a generation.
Little late to the analysis here, but another thing i noticed in regards to Act 2 “Black Box” that wasn’t mentioned was the airplane motifs seen through out the film. When a plane crashes, the black box is whats recovered from the crash to tell those investigating what happened that lead to the crash. It tracks everything the airplane does during the flight and is the biggest priority when they plane first crashes. Perhaps the suitcase (juxtaposed to white rather then black - A theme Virgil loves) is given to the people in the film to then spread the word and help them get into “Paris” (or fashion in this case) as Virgil has been seen doing for inspiring individuals on his website. He’s given the “black box” to the people to help them understand what’s done in his work so they too can take flight. Interested on your thoughts.
Hi bliss! Im someone who has always had a hard time w fashion growing up, being shamed for not performing feminity and having clothes as this rocket science exam of what i fail to execute and feeling like a laughing stock. I have slowly learned thru old friends how to enjoy exploring costumes and just mere expression but i really feel like your channel was my true tipping point.
I started with your virgil abloh videos and immediately got hooked and particularly enjoying the margiela series. I feel like you gave me an accessible joy and appreciation with the multi-faceted dimensions of fashion. From references, craft, history, being cool rather than just pretty. I have legit been slackjawed with some of your haunting examples of ingenuity, imagination, and protest!
I finally felt like a genuine FAN of some fcking clothes that i was too enthused by its subtleties and energies that it bleeds into how i construct my outfits, overriding past fears. I also feel like you espouse a genuine relating to the craft of clothes making (history, journalism, buying vintage) that i cant help but feel like ive had such a HIGHLY competent friend welcome me to understanding fashion week.
I was so surprised when i suddenly recognized some brands and references on some of my fave kpop idols and i realized that i actually grasp the language enough to have my own experience, opinion and appreciation that’s not overtly explained or shoved to my face. I JUST GOT IT!! And i feel so happy. And i know this aint fashion therapy or what, but i legit had fashion as one of my biggest blocks in terms of “i cants”/ overall shame) that fashion being something i enjoy is going on my best of 2022 memories list. I SERIOUSLY camp on your videos when i feel sick/ when eating alone. I subscribed for a bit (patreon) to directly support you but also wantes to seriously specify my deep gratitude towards you. You are one of the definite gems on the internet i am a serious fan! 💖💖💖i love you lots - maria
My favorite moment in the video is the explanation of the distinction between neo & archetypes. I think Virgil goes onto translate this distinction and you do a wonderful job of elucidating that. This truly feels like a narrative driven show and this video helps me understand the narrative more deeply
Also i love the fact they got mos def performing doom
And it really fit right?? I hadn’t heard either song before this video and I just thought it was all one song’s lyrics 🤷
One of the most detailed videos I’ve ever seen about ANYTHING. You just opened a mind up to another vision and view of life. Thank you
I'd say ¨snake oil¨ refers to his main theme of ¨challenging the established archetypes¨, and how it's meant to *change* how the world sees them, while Virgil knows that it won't really change anything.... the act of challenging performed by the show is itself is snake oil.
Bliss, Thank you for this vide, you dissected it very well, the way this show was executed from the references to the pieces themselves they all mean something deeper than the appearance just completely blows my mind.
The way u did this video is way too cool i couldnt even skip a sec
Miles Davis would have loved his work. His "Blue notes" tunnels through Virgil's stylized, reinvented rags!!!
Originality to me is how you pull from your influences and inspirations. It's taking from others to make something of your own.
I like how Virgil represents himself in more than one way. Most obviously using fabrics stemming from his heritage and most interestingly describing himself as a thief (even if it’s more getting inspired by others and borrowing elements). This gets more emphasised with the music and sampling you described. I think it shows how he accepts and embraces his way of designing pieces and then shows the public, most importantly the critics, that it isn’t necessarily bad and may even result in bigger success. Furthermore he wants to show that being such a „thief“ doesn‘t mean he lacks creativity.
Also I like the philosophy of his 3% rule.
Wonderful analysis ! I was not very fond of the show because I don't particularly like the collection but watching videos about the show analysis and understanding the artistic vision, the themes and ideas of culminative fashion, inclusion, interpretation of art in fashion, I am mesmerized. A really powerful show, this one !
I read that Snake Oil can be defined as a "Scam" or "deceptive marketing". So I'm thinking Virgil is saying how the industry is dishonest in a way or just not the way it seems from the outside looking in. Like everyone isn't as original as people make them out to be.
Great thought! Thank you for sharing!
I really really love how you really go in depth in this explantions i love it (too many really), I appreciate the collection more because of this, thank you
I think an important component to "stealing" isn't so much that a designer (such as Abloh) is taking to claim as theirs in a vacuum; they take knowing that others will notice from where it came as one part homage and another part ownership of something they love. For example, the soft trunks and petit malle bags referencing LV trunks, which have, for me, inspired me to make things of my own. I don't want to make LV knockoffs, but I do want people to see my inspiration unmistakably.
I already loved this runaway show/performance/short film. But maaaaaan this video, I'm just astonished. No words to define. Just pure brain food
Love these vids, you’ve shifted my perspective on fashion
“RIP VIRGIL 💔🕊”
S/O for the best fashion content on youtube.
Seriusly, this is crazy. Thanks a lot!
That means a ton to me, thank you 💫💫
I dont really know anything about fashion. But this video makes me want to learn more, great video dude :)
Bliss really that guy
L0L the smile cuz he didn’t expect it to caught it that perfectly xD
just as with evening (and any other time of the day), morning with new Bliss video is the best type of morning
Snake Oil - Likely referring to the fact that the roles given to us in society, that Virgil presents in the first act, Buisnessman, Artist etc, are not able to free marginalised people because these roles are rigid and only echoe inhereted opressive roles, hence the snake oil. Whats sold by society is that these roles will set you free but It's only through mixing up these roles, as demonstrated in the final act, where freedom truly lies. I think what scares people about Virgil is that he's foreshadowing how the role of a creative director is changing, who it belonges to and what that role does.
Amazing explanation! It opens up my eyes about the meaning of art and originality
Love these full breakdowns of runway shows
I think the breadth of the art heist both in scale and in history really emphasizes how the art heist in the show snowballs to a point where anyone willingly participating in the context, both in real life music and culture and in the show's reflection of Paris, is also taking part in the sharing their work. The fact that ESG has such a storied history as a sample on which iconic songs built on while not taking away from the value of anything which took inspiration from it is really important. Fantastic work
Did any of the remaining members of ESG realize a dime of income from their song being sampled?
great analysis for one of my fav collections in recent history , keep it up bliss
Whom ever is patron-ing this; Thank you!
bravo! and thanks for mentioning the exchange of ideas and viewpoints - we need to peacefully come together (not to separate)
I'm so glad I found you I'm a fan
Thank you so much for your professionalism! You make me feel so inspired
Been hoping for this one for a while thank you Bliss!!
I think the name snakeoil is because people were assuming that snake oil would cure them, when it was doing nothing.
ayyy you mentioned this one would be fire in the live yesterday! my hopes are high
I think that the title snake oil is depicting how in a black community we tend to use different variations of outfits like fashion are as in like painting and drawing singing rack making music as an outlet to escape but in reality it doesn’t really give us an escape it doesn’t heal the issue!
I've always considered myself to be someone who doesn't really care about fashion, either personal or artistic (I'm a very "sure, just throw on a black t-shirt and some cheap jeans" guy), but for some reason RUclips recommended your channel to me and I've been watching it for the last two hours. This is stuff is way more interesting than I thought it was.
I’m so glad to hear that. Fashion often gets pushed off as petty and silly, but I feel there’s some profound gems in there. I’m honored you would give it a shot. I recommend checking out my episode for Margiela Spring 1990. Absolutely wild story in there 💫💫
@@BlissFoster Will do! Also subscribed, eager to hear more about this moving forward.
Amazing content! Every video you made got me inspired! Gonna go through all of it!💪🏻
Side note on cowboys, most people forget that the historical majority of "cowboys" were Mexican/what is considered Latino/Hispanic
I think the reference to the Barcelona house is another reference to pushing boundaries and setting up constructs and archetypes only to break them and change the way that they are often perceived as well as even the idea of combining influence. As the Barcelona house seemingly uses a grid pattern for the metal structural beams but also because of the beams week integrity, is also reliant on the walls throughout the house that don’t perfectly align with the grid structure. The house itself pushes boundaries of conceived plans and classical plans and zones. I’ll link of the video that better explains it, I’m not an architect (yet at least haha, who knows maybe :) )
I'm a bit late to the party, but wanted to add anyways: in theatre a black box is a theatre space where no light is coming in. You can use the space to transform it into whatever you want, without outside interference. Ideally, a black box is also soundproof. I don't know if anyone finds this interesting, but for me it really adds to the space that Virgil is showing
Maybe it's just because of where you placed the elements in the video, but my first thought on the meaning of "Snake Oil" was linked to the theme of deconstruction of archetypes throughout the show, subverting the images and stereotypes which are "sold" to us and shedding light on what is false or incomplete about them.
It makes me so happy that this video has been out for this long and people are still submitting their interpretation of that theme. Thank you so much for sharing with us 💫💫
@@BlissFoster I've only taken an interest in fashion recently, so your archive's been extremely useful for familiarising myself with the Big Names and what their viewpoint and influence has been.
I’m so glad! As you continue through videos, I’d love to hear your thoughts on the comments 💫💫
been waiting on this and i didn't know it
So good!! Loved this . Snake oil my interpretation is like something you can’t trust .
love your content!
it is so interesting to watch this show as an architect myself, many arch memes in there lolz
Name em off! My architecture knowledge is verrrry limited. I’d love to hear any other references I missed 💫💫
Very heady stuff associated with Louis Vuitton brand. Very compelling.
Such a great video.
The fashion industry/fashion shows never interested me one bit, but this is actually really sick, i need to do more research :) great video
The ‘Further Reading’ section in the description has some gems in it 💫💫
It’s mind blowing how much more Virgil cares about LV than offwhite
I feel like it’s ultimately due to the platform and also funding.... financially I would imagine he has so much more freedom/ability to care. And then in terms of name and global impact, LV has a greater grasp on the public and mainstream so his message and craft arguably can go further.. but I would hope he can start to funnel this back into off white
@@brittanybelo1361 I think he is treating offwhite like a diffusion label. Even though LV also sells really well, offwhite he just makes what he knows people will want - graphic hoodies, dresses, flannels, trucker jackets, etc. I think he sees the opportunity he has as the first black designer for LV and wants to prove himself and make a stride towards a more accepting fashion industry. He realizes that it takes his full attention to make good on that promise at LV and probably has little to do with the design process for offwhite
Like the way u styled the loewe shirt 👌
Over the shirt I sleep in 😂🤌
@@BlissFoster Also with the cast of vices bracelet, if my eyes aren't fooling me?
Margiela Hospital Bracelet; the IDs for the fits are always at the top of the episode 💫💫
@@BlissFoster Thank you, I must've glanced over it lol. May I ask what's your fave scent? It's a thing that interests me the most when I'm watching someones videos lol
Silver Mountain Water by CREED. Love that stuff 😌
CONSUME, CONSUME, CONSUME AND CHANGE THE NEXT TARGET MARKET.
RIP V.A.🖤
RIP 🕯🕯🙏🏼
this guy is secretly a penspinner fr
I think sauls poem is a refrence how as soon as we step into the wnvironment / are born into certain archetypes ,cultures,etc and the next part is like now that i am here i recognize that as a (using this as an example) bpack person inspire and influence the cultures that are passed around...like the bags ? Idk this is all head cannon
Been waiting for this
Bliss you're hair is so cute
Great video Bliss 👏🏽
To answer your Snake Oil question, my reading of that ties directly into the shows references to Cowboys - specifically Black cowboys. The origin of the word snake oil comes from a Frontier Era trend of ‘Doctors’ promising miraculous health results from their Oils and Tonics, often attributed to foreign or dangerous animals (i.e Snake Oil). As we know, these rarely worked, and these self proclaimed doctors would flee their area the moment they sold out their stock. As time progressed, even though these Doctors were largely white venture capitalists, the term Snake Oil has become associated with Black/Natural Hair and Wellness products (i.e Butters, Oils and Waxes). Something that originated as predatory capitalism from White men around the time of cowboys has now become an allegory for black peoples necessities. This could be a reference to the clothing industry, which often follows a similar trend.
Pen flip champ is back
The question it's not about originality
, if you like someone he/she makes a reference, if you don't like someone he/she makes a copy, it's like Pierre Bordieu says "les circuits de consécration sociale, sera d'autant plus efficace plus la distance sociale de l'objet consacrée". Just have fun with it.
Oil Snake is the concept of Luxury. Virgil Abloh is the first Black designer to enter the world of high fashion, and the first to take it into the present ( art world). Abloh is bringing new Ideas, is breathing new life into a dead industry. He is doing what Warhol did in Art.
now you mention pulp fiction, Virgil is like the Tarantino of fashion, they both use A LOT of references and re-interpretations and homages etc.
Love these videos!!
mirror mirror seems like a de la soul ref? not sure they were the first to pull that sample
The fonts also look like the Newport ads from the 80’s and 90’s
GREAT catch 💫💫
@@BlissFoster just wanted to give you your flowers now! You’re the best high fashion youtuber , hands down. I love your analysis and the sense of community you “foster”. See what I did there lol. But anyways I love your channel and if you ever decide to make clothes I will support you
That means a lot to me, homie. Thank you 🙏
on snake oil....could it align with the "myth vs. reality" theme we see in play? as we enter the black box at the beginning of act 2, does this signify a recognition of reality? a breakthrough? (recognizing the true form of the snake oil that is our implied fashion bias). real freedom!
Could you imagine what the original creator and owner of Louis V would think of this show and where his travel chest brand has turned into.
I have now so much respect for virgil. holy shit.
Not a thing we create is new to the world. Maybe it's a discovery to our eyes But everything under the sun has already been done once before. Reinvention of creation is how humans evolve into what can be perceived as a better version of humanity. We are all connected by Love which I consider to be the source of our creation. You cannot create anything without love because to search for love is to search for a better feeling, a new feeling and experience. If you appreciate humanity and life enough, you'd respect and appreciate all emotions because you can't have happiness without sadness and vice versa. You also feel appreciation for happiness more when you've been through sadness and vice versa. So even though people believe they have ownership over something creation belongs to all as we are all connected. It's pride, money, greed and other factors that make us as humans possessive of what we bring to the world. But at the end of the day we are all here for our evolution as people. Our experiences of humanity make us want to create. We show what we have created to make others feel an emotion that unlocks a thought, and when we think we grow.
That's why reinvention in the current world today is imperative to our humanity because when we blend and fuse cultures, ideas, and thoughts together we will eventually all come to the realization that we are all spirits having a human experience. We are all Love.
The way I interpreted it was that this collection
was personal to him because it represents his own critics. Criticisms that his collections were not worthy enough just because he did not come from a traditional fashion design background and he studied architecture. As if he is saying, ‘Oh how absurd! As if my untraditional background means I am automatically devalued!’
This collection asks the question about whether people can stereotype being a fashion designer into a box. To deprogram a stereotypical way of thinking as society has taught us to.
People should not define certain roles as concrete, roles should be more open to interpretation, as Virgil has shown. He is successful in his own right without conforming to stereotypes. Regardless he might not have the traditional background as someone like Kim Jones, but he also a great designer in his own way, as someone who can communicate and connect with many people.
You’re the man!
Awesome video!!!!
Research on point 👌🏾
This is maybe Virgil's peak. He will never top this collection imo.
*bold claim meme*
I feel like Abloh tries to overcompensate for his previous collections and projects that were quite honestly pretty bland and pseudointellectual for the most part. Now he goes for maximalist approach with enormous amount of styles, cuts and performances which seems a little bit excessive for my taste. Also the length of the media materials is so large that it drags on. Hopefully he will find balance further on between these two polar opposites
Fair point, this is undoubtedly his best collection but it still feels like he tried to stretch himself too far in different directions.
@@PrincipalSkinner3190 Exactly, it’s interesting that he went in a more sophisticated direction but the word salad he used to throw around to back up his rather basic designs makes it a bit tryhard in my eyes
I think he knows that he's no Wales Bonner, and I think he really wants to be seen as an intellectual designer, hence the overcompensating. But I believe he should just either embrace the fact that he was invited to Louis Vuitton to bring the younger demographic with him that is not necessarily interested in the meaning of fashion and are more into the social aspects of wearing LV, or if he wants to be perceived as an intellectual, he needs to actually start working with young intellectual designers and take that risk with not hitting the sale targets
@@KC-rm9ws I don't think he wants to be seen as an intellectual designer, I think he knows what he is first: a creative director of Louis Vuitton. This discussion around his legitimacy has gone on so long because he has chosen his words carefully. If you think he would get legitimacy by "actually working with young intellectual designers," you also need to re-examine what the legitimacy you're describing is, who it was made by and for...
@@FushiHD I understand what you're saying, but I believe the excessive notes speak for themselves. We can have different views of what intellectual fashion is, but in my humble opinion, making a book of show notes, that has pages and pages explaining the meaning of certain words in dictionary manner is just not it. My point being - by doing the show notes and choosing such figure as James Baldwin for his inspiration, he does want to be seen as somewhat intellectual. James Baldwin is definitely not on everyones reading list and if you decide to draw inspiration from a figure that is not widely known to Virgils usual buyer, means that he wants to invite a different demographic of people to be interested in his work. And here lies the issue that comes up and will come up in the future and why people continue to discuss and have critique toward his work - he is under the helm of the most powerful conglomerate in the fashion business, has all the resources to expand his team and actually deliver for both hypebeasts and people who view fashion as an art form, but he only continues to cater to one certain demographic. It has nothing to do with him choosing his words carefully, but it's about him having the possibility to deliver insane things and still working at LV as if it's OFF WHITE.
Watching this again very late. Great video, definitely my favorite collection by Virgil. Did you sit in front of the fire place because the marble sort of mirrors the onyx from the Barcelona Pavilion?👀
Haha I wanted to move around and I love my parents’ fireplace generally, but yeah, kinda 😅
@@BlissFoster yeah no it’s very pretty! Nice right angles and color. Purposeful accident😌
Maybe originality is a complex of inspirations and knowledge from birth that we use to become who we think we are or who we portray to be
one aspect of "snake oil" that i haven't seen mentioned here is its tie to voodoo. new orleans voodoo was looked upon with heavy suspicion in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, particularly because it was part of slaves' culture and was thought to incite rebellion (which slave owners were deeply fearful of starting after haiti's successful slave revolt in the early nineteenth century). however, with the end of slavery, voodoo became increasingly commercialized. black people began selling various tinctures, items, etc with claims that they were 'voodoo magic' to dupe the uninformed, a practice which was criminalized in some states as it became more prevalent. "snake oil" was (to my understanding) a term for a voodoo cure that claimed to bring good fortune but was rooted in nothing; "snake oil salesman," then, was a term for a conman.
nowadays, voodoo is highly commodified. "voodoo diy kits" are even sold online. from this etymology, my belief is that "snake oil" as a title for a section of this collection fits into the overarching theme of the art heist very well-what is real of new orleans voodoo as a religion is largely unknown, but certainly haitian voodoo was borne of a blend of catholocism and various african tribal religions; new orleans voodoo is heavily commodified today but what its core contains is, again, largely unknown. if any religion embodies an "art heist" better than voodoo, i don't know of it.
(worth noting that i didn't read every comment, oops, and also that most of my claims here come from my recall of a short essay i wrote about six months ago. if anyone wants, i could dig up the bibliography, but if you have contradicting claims please add them because i didn't research very heavily.)
Bravo! Great Video
Rip
Snake Oil, I'm assuming, refers back again to that newspaper; Myth vs Reality, and Tourist vs Purist. The insider, The Snake Oil Salesman is aware of it's properties while the outsider is unaware, isolated from the truth.
Virgil says so much and so little all at once. Great analysis Bliss!
Thanks for the kind words, Austyn 😊 Could you elaborate a bit on the first part of your comment?
@@BlissFoster Eye mean Virgil's aesthetic can appear minimal when executed but the research, significance and philosophy he's tapped into is very maximal. He often talks about "tongue and cheek," no pun intended on the quotes, which is dope because the conversation about the work kind of adds an additional look every time.
Love❣️
I think snake oil could be symbolic of luxury goods, the selling of a lifestyle that does not cure the desire to obtain these things.