This video was very helpful. We had a question about the repair process, and the owner gave great information and was very patient and courteous.Thank you!
Sean, thanks for producing such an excellent video to help homeowners understand their irrigation systems. I just completed my first DIY irrigation system winterization after consulting many different RUclips videos, and your detailed instructions were appreciated. Unfortunately, the person who installed my system 22 years ago did not put in a winterization blow out port on the system. I will try to have a specialist address that next spring. For years I have had a professional sprinkler service company blow out my system with a truck mounted air compressor. It is clear to me that they were blowing out the system through the PVB! I have also found several videos online that do this as well, but most (like yourself) do not recommend that. I have a FEBCO 765-1 PVB on my home, and for me to blow out the system through the PVB I had to manually grab the float and pull it to the top with my hand or needle nose pliers to get the system to seal when my small 6.3 gallon air compressor was connected. Watching your video really helped me to understand what is happening internally in the system and I truly appreciate that you took the time to place this online for public consumption.
Thanks for such a detailed comment! I was talking with a sprinkler guy in CO yesterday and he told me there is a fitting to put into the Febco 765 that they use to blow out the systems. You have to remove the yellow plastic bonnet and you thread this fitting in that they hook the compressor up to. Again, Febco does not recommend blowing through the backflow assembly and this would be an after market item. I don't know what it is called or where he got it. I don't think in every case blowing it out through the backflow will break something, but I think it happens more often than those that blow out the systems would admit.
I’ve learned a lot from this video. And now I know that the guy who installed mine didn’t know what he was doing. So now I will have to have it re-installed. I wish there was a way I could show you a picture of mine.
Good video. I am retired and closed my business now. I generally like the Zurn Wilkins valves much better but the PVB I like better is a Watts 800M4. Not so for much of the other Watts valves. One other advantage with Wilkins valves is that you can generally buy more parts individually, unlike Watts that sells you kits full of items you do not generally do not need at a much higher price.
The individual parts pricing is changing for all of them. They are charging much more than they are worth and even Wilkins has stopped selling some of the individual parts. Thanks for supporting the channel!
IF you are referring to winterizing, I guess it would depend on your system. For example, I have a stop and waste and it should all run out of that. If your valve is in your home there should be a way to drain it as well.
I need more information. Do you have the model 720A? What size is it? Did you have freezing temperatures assuming it is outside? Have you taken it apart to inspect the parts? If you want you are welcome to call me at 801-355-6736 or email me at sean@backflow-supply.com
Just saw this was my system was just installed this year. My installer blew it out last week and left the handles at a 45 as you suggest. He left the petcocks in the open position. Is that correct? Thanks
Yes. I don't think it matters much with the test cocks. It is possible for them to get freeze cracks but if you want to try and move the slot to 45 degrees you can. Remember every quarter turn is open and close so you want to be in between the open close points.
Homeowner here. Curious what you think might be wrong here. When I turn on the water too the system the Wilkins 720 PVB seals and the mainline fills. When I activate zone 1 the PVB leaks and nothing comes out of any of the heads. What might you recommend? Thank you!
I am guessing when you activate zone 1 and the PVB leaks, it means it is dumping all the water that would be going to the zone. Is that correct? Does this do it on any other zone? It sounds like you are losing too much pressure after the PVB. Either there are too many heads on the zone or there is a break between the valve and the heads. For some reason too much water going out and not enough pressure to sustain the float of the PVB to keep it sealed. Call me if you need to and we can talk. Sean, 801-355-6736
I have the one on the left but when I remove the bonnet it’s a black piece with only 1 long piece it’s so hard to even remove I can’t get it to budge. Any advice ?
I wonder if you have a different model. Both of these are the Wilkins 720A. I wonder if you have the Wattts 800M4 PVB? ruclips.net/video/sqYsxJJk8m4/видео.html Watch this and see if it helps. You are welcome to send me pictures to sean@backflow-supply.com or call at 801-355-6736
Is it an optical illusion or does the apparatus on the right look bigger than the one on the left? I don't see any size specification on the 720-A that I'm looking at here at home.
If you are referring to the two assemblies in front of me in the video, the old one is a 1" and the new one (the left) is 3/4". But the bodies are the same for 1/2", 3/4" and 1". You will be able to find the size raised in the brass on each of the ball valves. It will be marked as a 3/4" or 1" most likely.
Thank you for your sharing. I have the same pressure breaker and I am having hard time to take the bonnet off, it is so tight and maybe rusty. I have tried oil on it but it doesn’t help. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you!
Take a hammer and gently tap around the outside of the housing at the top where the threads of the bonnet go down into the body. See if that will help loosen it up. if you are not using a long bar of some sort to put in between the three "legs" that the screws go into that the canopy attaches to I am not sure how else to get it out.
No. It is not normal. Make sure the screw slot is turned straight across the valve. Every quarter turn is open /close. If it is then it might be time to change the test cock or you can go buy a 1/4" brass plug, teflon it and put in if it is a female ended test cock. If it has a male end then buy a cap. Or you can replace the test cock. I am guessing your assembly is a 1" or smaller line size so that means you need a 1/8" male fitting (that goes into the body of the assembly) by a 1/4" female, or by a new one. Here is the link to the test cocks on our site. backflow-supply.com/search?q=test+cocks&options%5Bprefix%5D=last
@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 I thought I had it stopped but now it's not just dripping but more like spraying out where the plastic plug fits. I tried to teflon tape the plug until I can order something but that didn't work either. How do I know which size plug to order and does it need to be lead free? Thank you!
@@robertkoellisch470 Is the screw slot going in the direction of the flow or across the test cock. It should be going across the test cock. If you need a plug in it for now and it is a female test cock you need a 1/4" male plug. If it is a male flare fitting you need a 1/4" flare fitting (cap)with an o-ring on it to stop it.
I don't know what you mean. If you have this PVB the water comes up from the bottom pipe and out the side and depending on how it is installed the outlet side could go out the left side or the right side.
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This video was very helpful. We had a question about the repair process, and the owner gave great information and was very patient and courteous.Thank you!
Sean, thanks for producing such an excellent video to help homeowners understand their irrigation systems. I just completed my first DIY irrigation system winterization after consulting many different RUclips videos, and your detailed instructions were appreciated. Unfortunately, the person who installed my system 22 years ago did not put in a winterization blow out port on the system. I will try to have a specialist address that next spring. For years I have had a professional sprinkler service company blow out my system with a truck mounted air compressor. It is clear to me that they were blowing out the system through the PVB! I have also found several videos online that do this as well, but most (like yourself) do not recommend that. I have a FEBCO 765-1 PVB on my home, and for me to blow out the system through the PVB I had to manually grab the float and pull it to the top with my hand or needle nose pliers to get the system to seal when my small 6.3 gallon air compressor was connected. Watching your video really helped me to understand what is happening internally in the system and I truly appreciate that you took the time to place this online for public consumption.
Thanks for such a detailed comment! I was talking with a sprinkler guy in CO yesterday and he told me there is a fitting to put into the Febco 765 that they use to blow out the systems. You have to remove the yellow plastic bonnet and you thread this fitting in that they hook the compressor up to. Again, Febco does not recommend blowing through the backflow assembly and this would be an after market item. I don't know what it is called or where he got it. I don't think in every case blowing it out through the backflow will break something, but I think it happens more often than those that blow out the systems would admit.
I wish you hosted all how to videos on RUclips. Outstanding job!
Thank you very much.
That was amazing information thank you it was just what I was looking for.
This is the BEST backflow video I have found. Nice job sir!
Thank you very much!
I’ve learned a lot from this video. And now I know that the guy who installed mine didn’t know what he was doing. So now I will have to have it re-installed. I wish there was a way I could show you a picture of mine.
You can email it to me at sean@backflow-supply.com
Thank you for this very important video repair guide.
Thank you for the very clear instructions. You helped me understand the repair and assembly process.
Thanks for the video Sean! I'll come purchase some stuff from you - very helpful!!
Excellent video, very informative! Thank you
Awesome tutorial. Thank you.
Good video. I am retired and closed my business now. I generally like the Zurn Wilkins valves much better but the PVB I like better is a Watts 800M4. Not so for much of the other Watts valves.
One other advantage with Wilkins valves is that you can generally buy more parts individually, unlike Watts that sells you kits full of items you do not generally do not need at a much higher price.
The individual parts pricing is changing for all of them. They are charging much more than they are worth and even Wilkins has stopped selling some of the individual parts. Thanks for supporting the channel!
You should do all youtube videos. Great explanation.
How do you drain the supply line? do you need too?
IF you are referring to winterizing, I guess it would depend on your system. For example, I have a stop and waste and it should all run out of that. If your valve is in your home there should be a way to drain it as well.
My unit is leaking from the top of the what you suggested I do, should I replace it. Thank u
I need more information. Do you have the model 720A? What size is it? Did you have freezing temperatures assuming it is outside? Have you taken it apart to inspect the parts? If you want you are welcome to call me at 801-355-6736 or email me at sean@backflow-supply.com
Just saw this was my system was just installed this year. My installer blew it out last week and left the handles at a 45 as you suggest. He left the petcocks in the open position. Is that correct?
Thanks
Yes. I don't think it matters much with the test cocks. It is possible for them to get freeze cracks but if you want to try and move the slot to 45 degrees you can. Remember every quarter turn is open and close so you want to be in between the open close points.
Homeowner here. Curious what you think might be wrong here. When I turn on the water too the system the Wilkins 720 PVB seals and the mainline fills. When I activate zone 1 the PVB leaks and nothing comes out of any of the heads. What might you recommend? Thank you!
I am guessing when you activate zone 1 and the PVB leaks, it means it is dumping all the water that would be going to the zone. Is that correct? Does this do it on any other zone? It sounds like you are losing too much pressure after the PVB. Either there are too many heads on the zone or there is a break between the valve and the heads. For some reason too much water going out and not enough pressure to sustain the float of the PVB to keep it sealed.
Call me if you need to and we can talk. Sean, 801-355-6736
I have the one on the left but when I remove the bonnet it’s a black piece with only 1 long piece it’s so hard to even remove I can’t get it to budge. Any advice ?
I wonder if you have a different model. Both of these are the Wilkins 720A. I wonder if you have the Wattts 800M4 PVB? ruclips.net/video/sqYsxJJk8m4/видео.html Watch this and see if it helps. You are welcome to send me pictures to sean@backflow-supply.com or call at 801-355-6736
Is it an optical illusion or does the apparatus on the right look bigger than the one on the left? I don't see any size specification on the 720-A that I'm looking at here at home.
If you are referring to the two assemblies in front of me in the video, the old one is a 1" and the new one (the left) is 3/4". But the bodies are the same for 1/2", 3/4" and 1".
You will be able to find the size raised in the brass on each of the ball valves. It will be marked as a 3/4" or 1" most likely.
@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 Thank you, I will take a 2nd look.
Thank you for your sharing. I have the same pressure breaker and I am having hard time to take the bonnet off, it is so tight and maybe rusty. I have tried oil on it but it doesn’t help. Do you have any suggestions? Thank you!
Take a hammer and gently tap around the outside of the housing at the top where the threads of the bonnet go down into the body. See if that will help loosen it up. if you are not using a long bar of some sort to put in between the three "legs" that the screws go into that the canopy attaches to I am not sure how else to get it out.
@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 It works!!! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
@@qing7 Glad it worked, but what worked specifically? The tapping with the hammer, the long bar to turn it with or both?
Just noticed a small drip coming out of the horizontal test cock. Is there a remedy for this or is this normal? Thank you!
No. It is not normal. Make sure the screw slot is turned straight across the valve. Every quarter turn is open /close. If it is then it might be time to change the test cock or you can go buy a 1/4" brass plug, teflon it and put in if it is a female ended test cock. If it has a male end then buy a cap. Or you can replace the test cock. I am guessing your assembly is a 1" or smaller line size so that means you need a 1/8" male fitting (that goes into the body of the assembly) by a 1/4" female, or by a new one. Here is the link to the test cocks on our site. backflow-supply.com/search?q=test+cocks&options%5Bprefix%5D=last
@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 I thought I had it stopped but now it's not just dripping but more like spraying out where the plastic plug fits. I tried to teflon tape the plug until I can order something but that didn't work either. How do I know which size plug to order and does it need to be lead free? Thank you!
@@robertkoellisch470 Is the screw slot going in the direction of the flow or across the test cock. It should be going across the test cock. If you need a plug in it for now and it is a female test cock you need a 1/4" male plug. If it is a male flare fitting you need a 1/4" flare fitting (cap)with an o-ring on it to stop it.
mine is weird, it goes from left to right rather than right to left
I don't know what you mean. If you have this PVB the water comes up from the bottom pipe and out the side and depending on how it is installed the outlet side could go out the left side or the right side.
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