I put all new parts on my 800M4 ! I started freaking out when water kept gushing out ,I kept turning it off until you showed me exactly how it works. when I got the seal it was fine Thanks!!!
Excellent information! This is the fourth video on this regulator that I watched and is the only one to explain what I was doing wrong. Problem solved.
I did it! An old woman nearly 70, all by myself! Saved quite a sprinkler repair bill. Thanks. I don't think the problem was broken/cracked parts inside, but there were dead flies, spiders, webs, etc that must have kept the seal from setting properly! Thank youl
Thanks your video saved me a repair kit, and taught me the right sequence for turn on. System was leaking until I did the correct turn on sequence. Very helpful.
Extremely helpful video. simple, straight and to the point. I'm a journeyman plumber working in and the surrounding areas of the nation's capital and actually worked on one today. Exact make and model and it took me forever to understand how to get that check out until seeing this video.
Excellent video!! Thank you so much. I've been trying to fix this for 3 days and I watched at least 12 videos before I found yours! And now it's fixed!! Thanks alot my friend. Great job!
Good video but several small issues for clarification: You need to close the shutoffs and release the pressure inside the assembly using the testcocks or you will not be able to unscrew the bonnet unless you ate a big bowl of your Wheaties or use a pipe wrench and likely damage the bonnet You need to lube the O-ring at the base of the bonnet with a food grade lubricant or it may tear or dislodge when reinstalling the bonnet. In Florida the DEP change the requirements for testing of residential backflow valve assemblies to be every other year and commercial still remains to be annually. Other States may also not follow the annual testing recommendation from the manufacturer. If a homeowner or anyone else opens the assembly then the law requires the valve must be tested again even if the regular testing by a certified technician occurred just last week. Good job Sean!
I need to redo this one. I rushed it as a customer was asking for it and needed it ASAP. Just have never found the time to redo it. Your additional information about codes does depend on jurisdictions. However, anytime it is repaired or worked on it should always be tested to ensure it is working as it should. Thanks!
Great video Sean ... you did an excellent job. I am going out to fix mine now. ... and thanks for including the start instructions ... had this house ten years and my irrigation guy never mentioned that.
I am very critical of Watts RPZ backflow valve assemblies because of their design however, the Watts 800 M4 in my opinion is the best PVB on the market. I have installed and repaired so many of these that I do not want to guess at the number. Something that you did not mention but is important certified backflow technicians may not be the only ones watching your videos. You talked about people installing a hose bibb to use water from the irrigation line. Many homeowners install their own hose bibbs but they often install them on the wrong side of the backflow valve assembly. The hose Bibb must be installed after, or downstream, of the assembly or they are not protected by the backflow valve and are in violation of the plumbing code. Good video but you are working on a brand new valve. When you disassemble them in the field the components of the valve do not allow you to remove or reinstall parts as easily and you show here and sometimes need some gently persuasion.
Lunker012 good comments about where the hose bibbs need to be located. In one of my earlier attempts at recoding this I did mention about this being easier because it was a new assembly. So hard to get it all in. I hope to keep improving.
Thanks, I had reduced pressure on all zones and my 800M4 was squealing when running. I took everything apart and cleaned it and ensured there were no cracks and or any damage. The difference is my float has a center tube with an internal spring the fits up into the bonnet center spring area. The pressure has returned minus the squeal but I now have a small leak and was going to replace everything inside our 20-year-old Watt 800M4 R regulator but I am not able to find a kit with the same float. Help and thanks again.
I am not sure which size you have. 1" is most common, but here is a link to the parts for the 3/4" backflow-supply.com/collections/all?filter.p.m.custom.watts_models=800M4&filter.p.m.custom.sizes=3%2F4%22 and the 1" backflow-supply.com/collections/all?filter.p.m.custom.watts_models=800M4&filter.p.m.custom.sizes=3%2F4%22 just depends on if you want just that part or a complete kit. Call me if you have questions Sean 801-355-6736
Thanks for this great video on how to repair my Watts PVB. It would be helpful to give advice on what to do if the bonnet doesn't just unscrew by hand. That sucker is on there good. I am a victim of the Texas big freeze and trying to figure out how to get my sprinkler system back into operation. I took the top plate off which he said you don't need to remove and it was badly cracked. I saw that two legs are broken off the float. That is as far as I got. That bonnet does not just unscrew like he showed. It will require some more persuasion. Been in this house 17 years and this PVB has never been opened. Never knew they should be inspected and maintained. Never drained the system either. Of course we never have had 5 days below freezing with temps in single digits either...
John, you may need to get a big pipe wrench and put it on the bonnet and try and unthread it with a little leverage. It might start breaking the plastic and you may end slowly breaking away the plastic to get it out. I have never heard of hearing one being in so hard it wouldn't easily come out and where we are we have these freeze all the time. Call me if you need to talk more about it. 801-355-6736
Thank you for the video. I do have one question that is driving me crazy. I juay bought my house last year, and had a company close for me. I attempted to open it myself today. My problem is this....When I open the number 1 valve it leaks and then pressurizes. I then open the number two. It is fine for about 20-30 seconds when it suddenly starts to gush and it slightly shutters. All of the parts look ok. I would rather not spend $110 on a replacement kit if it is just one or two pieces. Can you share your thoughts of what might be happening? Thanks, KM from NJ
Hey Kenneth were you able to figure out the problem? I have Brand new one i installed it and am having the same problem. I took it apart and I didn't see any issues.
Open the number 1 valve quickly with the number 2 valve shut. Then slowly open #2. If you still have problems, it's most likely either debris in the check, or damage to the seat. I'm searching through the comments now to see how to get the seat out. I'm thinking they make a specific tool just for that. Watts has a tendency to find ways to bleed people dry. I'm a Wilkins guy all the way.
I am not sure I am following your question. You had the assembly tested and it failed? That is a possibility. The air inlet could have opened below the required 1.0 or the check valve in the bottom could have leaked or not held at 1.0 or above. This would require perhaps a simple cleaning or rubber parts or complete parts. Hard to determine without seeing the components and knowing what the issue was in the first place. You are welcome to call me at 801-355-6736 and ask for Sean or email me at sean@backflow-supply.com
@@shanew7361 Maybe I need to clarify. Did someone come out to do a specific backflow test, using a gauge and they hooked a hose up to it? Did they leave a copy of the report?
Thank you for a very informative video. I had the white piece blow off during the winter. Where can I find replacement? Is it easy to open the black top? I tried my but was very difficult to open. Does it need a wrench or just hand tightening will do? Thank you.
That black top, the bonnet is just hand tight. As for the white piece I think you are referring to the vent float, but not sure how you know it is bad if you can't get the bonnet off. Here is the link to our web store for that part, for a 1" 800M4 assembly. backflow-supply.com/products/rk-800m4-v-1?_pos=1&_sid=bb76300cd&_ss=r
For the 800M4 or LF800M4 the seat is removable. Watts tells me that the seat needs a socket that is 2 1/8". But as I understand, it needs to be a thin walled socket or it won't fit the outside of the seat and between the inside wall of the assembly. I don't know of any easier way to get it out. There are no tabs or nipples inside the seat to fashion a tool to unthread it. I admit, it is frustrating to put a component into their assembly that appears to have no way to remove it. Their original version, 800M2, of this model didn't have the replaceable seat. The inclusion of the seat is what makes it an 800M4.
Can you link to a replacement part for the 800M4 3/4" assembly parts. I ordered the kit on Amazon and it doesn't have the 4 prongs. It is a rounded plastic piece on the red washer part.
I just received the following from Amazon to fix my 800M4. However mine is 1" not 3/4. I needed three kits: Bonnet Repair 0887701 $32, Pressure Breaker Valve Vent Float Kit 0887710 $11 (the upper white 4 prong), and Check Kit 0887704 $24 (the bottom black 4 prong). I may not have needed the bottom black kit. They also have combination kits (seemed more expensive), and a freeze resistant kit called a "Retro Kit Converts". Just search for 800M4. I am going out to fix mine now. I just watched this video. Thanks for the video Sean ... great job!
I wonder if you have a 1" assembly, not a 3/4". I also believe you are referring to the vent float that the water pressure pushes up against the black plastic bonnet it to stop the water from flowing out of the top. Here is the link for the 3/4" vent float backflow-supply.com/products/rk-800m4-v-1-2-3-4?_pos=1&_sid=6f39058be&_ss=r And here is the link if it is a 1" backflow-supply.com/products/rk-800m4-v-1?_pos=1&_sid=481ea5b00&_ss=r Call me at 801-355-6736 if you need more assistance.
How come when I try to blowout my system, my pvb simply leaks out the air, no seal is made. I’ve tried both test cocks and pvb has new internals. All seals are in good condition.
my guess is you don't have enough pressure to be able to keep the float in place that seals against the bonnet and to blow out your system. Not sure what model you have but some may have a means to manually hold the float closed as you blow out the system, like the Wilkins 720A.
Thank you for the response. I have the 800m like in the video. I have a 15 gallon compressor and I was using 60lbs. Is that not enough? If I take internals out and seal the top I can accomplish what I need but I’d rather not
@@rosie.baldanza123 keep in mind I am not a sprinkler guy. And none of the manufacturers recommend blowing through the backflows. But in my estimation, 60 psi wouldn't be enough to keep the float up and provide enough air to blow out the sprinkler lines. Your model doesn't have a portion of the vent float that extends through the bonnet so there is not an easy way to manually keep the float in place. Maybe someone else has a solution for your model but I have not heard any.
Thank you for your assistance. I purged my system by removing the internals and sealing the top with industrial grade film reinforced with the factory bonnet. But, curiosity got the better of me and I had to try again. (through pbv) I finally got it right. 60lbs of pressure was sufficient. My issue was that both my inlet and outlet valves were open. Because of that, I could not generate enough pressure. Once I shut both down, I’d open the inlet slowly and the pvb sealed itself after 3-5 seconds of flapping around. Then I opened the outlet valve and my zone started blowing out.
Not sure what you mean. You have low water pressure and could putting one of these in fix that...no it wouldn't. If you mean could this be the cause of the low water pressure, perhaps. What is the line pressure before and after the backflow? You should lose a few psi from one side of the backflow to the other. IF the parts inside are broken and restricting the flow this could be the cause. Take it apart and see what you have going on and let me know.
I am not sure what you mean. Do you mean how to blow it out in the end of the season? Open and close? Depends on what you need to accomplish. You are welcome to call me so we can talk. 801-355-6736
I am assuming you are referring to the 1" line size assembly? If it is I am told by Watts Technical it is a 1 1/2" socket. But I understand it needs to be a fairly thin walled one to be able to fit between the edge of the seat and the wall of the assembly.
We got a new one of these last year, was working fine early spring this year. But now all of the sudden, it makes this horrible droning wailing noise and I can't figure out for the life of me what's wrong... help?
We may need to talk on the phone or email, but phone if we can. 801-355-6736. It can be a flow issue and maybe it is even that a component inside is broken or damaged. Does it only do it when certain zones are running or any zone? What is different about when it does it and doesn't do it? Have you taken it apart to inspect it?
Joseph, the part is $26.95. Depending on how you ship it, postal or UPS you could spend Just under $5.00 to maybe $12 with UPS. If you go through my online store it will show you the options and prices. Here is a link to the #2 check on my site and you can add it to your cart and you can see what shipping would be. backflow-supply.com/products/rk-009m3-ck2-3-4?_pos=1&_sid=c41bda194&_ss=r
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I put all new parts on my 800M4 ! I started freaking out when water kept gushing out ,I kept turning it off until you showed me exactly how it works. when I got the seal it was fine Thanks!!!
Excellent information! This is the fourth video on this regulator that I watched and is the only one to explain what I was doing wrong. Problem solved.
Thank you for also including instruction on the proper opening steps .
Thanks for this! Fixed my 85yo widowed neighbors system using this video! Thanks for helping me do a good thing for someone who really needed it!
You are welcome. Glad you were able to fix it. Also glad to hear that there are still good neighbors!
@@backflowsupplyslcut9394
I did it! An old woman nearly 70, all by myself! Saved quite a sprinkler repair bill. Thanks. I don't think the problem was broken/cracked parts inside, but there were dead flies, spiders, webs, etc that must have kept the seal from setting properly! Thank youl
GREAT instructional video!!! My exact unit and NOW I understand it well, Thank You!
Excellent instructional video. Just what I needed. Thank you.
Thanks. Hope it helped.
Thanks your video saved me a repair kit, and taught me the right sequence for turn on. System was leaking until I did the correct turn on sequence. Very helpful.
What an awesome video. Each instruction and closeup was clear. I repaired the leak in 10 minutes thanks to you.
Thanks!
Extremely helpful video. simple, straight and to the point. I'm a journeyman plumber working in and the surrounding areas of the nation's capital and actually worked on one today. Exact make and model and it took me forever to understand how to get that check out until seeing this video.
Glad it helped!
WOW! THAT'S SO EASY. THANK YOU SO MUCH. I'M GOING TO ORDER 11" 800M4 PARTS AND FIX IT, HAVE A NICE DAY SIR AND STAY SAFE.
Excellent video!! Thank you so much. I've been trying to fix this for 3 days and I watched at least 12 videos before I found yours! And now it's fixed!! Thanks alot my friend. Great job!
Thanks. Glad it was helpful.
Great information, appreciate the work sir!!
Good video but several small issues for clarification:
You need to close the shutoffs and release the pressure inside the assembly using the testcocks or you will not be able to unscrew the bonnet unless you ate a big bowl of your Wheaties or use a pipe wrench and likely damage the bonnet
You need to lube the O-ring at the base of the bonnet with a food grade lubricant or it may tear or dislodge when reinstalling the bonnet.
In Florida the DEP change the requirements for testing of residential backflow valve assemblies to be every other year and commercial still remains to be annually. Other States may also not follow the annual testing recommendation from the manufacturer.
If a homeowner or anyone else opens the assembly then the law requires the valve must be tested again even if the regular testing by a certified technician occurred just last week.
Good job Sean!
I need to redo this one. I rushed it as a customer was asking for it and needed it ASAP. Just have never found the time to redo it.
Your additional information about codes does depend on jurisdictions. However, anytime it is repaired or worked on it should always be tested to ensure it is working as it should. Thanks!
Great video Sean ... you did an excellent job. I am going out to fix mine now. ... and thanks for including the start instructions ... had this house ten years and my irrigation guy never mentioned that.
Thanks…you just saved me between $350-$750
Glad I could help!
I am very critical of Watts RPZ backflow valve assemblies because of their design however, the Watts 800 M4 in my opinion is the best PVB on the market. I have installed and repaired so many of these that I do not want to guess at the number.
Something that you did not mention but is important certified backflow technicians may not be the only ones watching your videos. You talked about people installing a hose bibb to use water from the irrigation line. Many homeowners install their own hose bibbs but they often install them on the wrong side of the backflow valve assembly. The hose Bibb must be installed after, or downstream, of the assembly or they are not protected by the backflow valve and are in violation of the plumbing code.
Good video but you are working on a brand new valve. When you disassemble them in the field the components of the valve do not allow you to remove or reinstall parts as easily and you show here and sometimes need some gently persuasion.
Lunker012 good comments about where the hose bibbs need to be located. In one of my earlier attempts at recoding this I did mention about this being easier because it was a new assembly. So hard to get it all in. I hope to keep improving.
Thanks, I had reduced pressure on all zones and my 800M4 was squealing when running. I took everything apart and cleaned it and ensured there were no cracks and or any damage. The difference is my float has a center tube with an internal spring the fits up into the bonnet center spring area. The pressure has returned minus the squeal but I now have a small leak and was going to replace everything inside our 20-year-old Watt 800M4 R regulator but I am not able to find a kit with the same float. Help and thanks again.
I am not sure which size you have. 1" is most common, but here is a link to the parts for the 3/4" backflow-supply.com/collections/all?filter.p.m.custom.watts_models=800M4&filter.p.m.custom.sizes=3%2F4%22 and the 1" backflow-supply.com/collections/all?filter.p.m.custom.watts_models=800M4&filter.p.m.custom.sizes=3%2F4%22 just depends on if you want just that part or a complete kit. Call me if you have questions Sean 801-355-6736
Thank you for this! I had to watch three really bad videos on this subject zero helpful. Nice Job!
Thanks!
Thanks for this great video on how to repair my Watts PVB. It would be helpful to give advice on what to do if the bonnet doesn't just unscrew by hand. That sucker is on there good.
I am a victim of the Texas big freeze and trying to figure out how to get my sprinkler system back into operation. I took the top plate off which he said you don't need to remove and it was badly cracked. I saw that two legs are broken off the float. That is as far as I got. That bonnet does not just unscrew like he showed. It will require some more persuasion. Been in this house 17 years and this PVB has never been opened. Never knew they should be inspected and maintained. Never drained the system either. Of course we never have had 5 days below freezing with temps in single digits either...
John, you may need to get a big pipe wrench and put it on the bonnet and try and unthread it with a little leverage. It might start breaking the plastic and you may end slowly breaking away the plastic to get it out. I have never heard of hearing one being in so hard it wouldn't easily come out and where we are we have these freeze all the time. Call me if you need to talk more about it. 801-355-6736
Excellent video!!
Thank you for the video. I do have one question that is driving me crazy. I juay bought my house last year, and had a company close for me. I attempted to open it myself today. My problem is this....When I open the number 1 valve it leaks and then pressurizes. I then open the number two. It is fine for about 20-30 seconds when it suddenly starts to gush and it slightly shutters. All of the parts look ok. I would rather not spend $110 on a replacement kit if it is just one or two pieces. Can you share your thoughts of what might be happening? Thanks, KM from NJ
Hey Kenneth were you able to figure out the problem? I have Brand new one i installed it and am having the same problem. I took it apart and I didn't see any issues.
Open the number 1 valve quickly with the number 2 valve shut. Then slowly open #2. If you still have problems, it's most likely either debris in the check, or damage to the seat. I'm searching through the comments now to see how to get the seat out. I'm thinking they make a specific tool just for that. Watts has a tendency to find ways to bleed people dry. I'm a Wilkins guy all the way.
Thank you...very nice tutorial.
This video was excellent
What if it's not leaking water but the pressure test failed to submit to tne County?
I am not sure I am following your question. You had the assembly tested and it failed? That is a possibility. The air inlet could have opened below the required 1.0 or the check valve in the bottom could have leaked or not held at 1.0 or above. This would require perhaps a simple cleaning or rubber parts or complete parts. Hard to determine without seeing the components and knowing what the issue was in the first place. You are welcome to call me at 801-355-6736 and ask for Sean or email me at sean@backflow-supply.com
@@backflowsupplyslcut9394 Yes I had the pressure tested and it failed. Otherwise, its functioning fine zero issues.
@@shanew7361 Maybe I need to clarify. Did someone come out to do a specific backflow test, using a gauge and they hooked a hose up to it? Did they leave a copy of the report?
@backflowsupplyslcut9394 Correct, and no report was given. I'm having a different plumbing company retest it.
@@shanew7361 Make sure you ask them to explain why and how it failed so you know what you need to fix it.
Thank you great video
Love these videos
Thank you for a very informative video. I had the white piece blow off during the winter. Where can I find replacement?
Is it easy to open the black top? I tried my but was very difficult to open. Does it need a wrench or just hand tightening will do? Thank you.
That black top, the bonnet is just hand tight. As for the white piece I think you are referring to the vent float, but not sure how you know it is bad if you can't get the bonnet off. Here is the link to our web store for that part, for a 1" 800M4 assembly. backflow-supply.com/products/rk-800m4-v-1?_pos=1&_sid=bb76300cd&_ss=r
very clear. Thank you very much!
Just one more detail, when I opened it I noticed that both line 1 and two were wide open and I do not remember them draining it last year?
Kenneth, so did you get it all taken care of? I saw your other question but not sure which came in first or last. Is it all okay now?
Mines just went bad i jusy orderd the replacement parts thanks for the tutorial
How do you remove the seat from the 1 1/4" - 2"? I'm starting to think it's not possible.
For the 800M4 or LF800M4 the seat is removable. Watts tells me that the seat needs a socket that is 2 1/8". But as I understand, it needs to be a thin walled socket or it won't fit the outside of the seat and between the inside wall of the assembly. I don't know of any easier way to get it out. There are no tabs or nipples inside the seat to fashion a tool to unthread it. I admit, it is frustrating to put a component into their assembly that appears to have no way to remove it. Their original version, 800M2, of this model didn't have the replaceable seat. The inclusion of the seat is what makes it an 800M4.
Thank you so much. how can I find these parts to repleac ? Dose the home depot has these parts?
I don't think Home Depot has these parts, but I do on my web store, www.backflow-supply.com
He clearly likes it
Can you link to a replacement part for the 800M4 3/4" assembly parts. I ordered the kit on Amazon and it doesn't have the 4 prongs. It is a rounded plastic piece on the red washer part.
I just received the following from Amazon to fix my 800M4. However mine is 1" not 3/4. I needed three kits: Bonnet Repair 0887701 $32, Pressure Breaker Valve Vent Float Kit 0887710 $11 (the upper white 4 prong), and Check Kit 0887704 $24 (the bottom black 4 prong). I may not have needed the bottom black kit. They also have combination kits (seemed more expensive), and a freeze resistant kit called a "Retro Kit Converts". Just search for 800M4. I am going out to fix mine now. I just watched this video. Thanks for the video Sean ... great job!
@@terry.albertson Thanks for jumping in Terry
I wonder if you have a 1" assembly, not a 3/4". I also believe you are referring to the vent float that the water pressure pushes up against the black plastic bonnet it to stop the water from flowing out of the top.
Here is the link for the 3/4" vent float backflow-supply.com/products/rk-800m4-v-1-2-3-4?_pos=1&_sid=6f39058be&_ss=r
And here is the link if it is a 1" backflow-supply.com/products/rk-800m4-v-1?_pos=1&_sid=481ea5b00&_ss=r
Call me at 801-355-6736 if you need more assistance.
How come when I try to blowout my system, my pvb simply leaks out the air, no seal is made. I’ve tried both test cocks and pvb has new internals. All seals are in good condition.
my guess is you don't have enough pressure to be able to keep the float in place that seals against the bonnet and to blow out your system. Not sure what model you have but some may have a means to manually hold the float closed as you blow out the system, like the Wilkins 720A.
Thank you for the response. I have the 800m like in the video. I have a 15 gallon compressor and I was using 60lbs. Is that not enough? If I take internals out and seal the top I can accomplish what I need but I’d rather not
@@rosie.baldanza123 keep in mind I am not a sprinkler guy. And none of the manufacturers recommend blowing through the backflows. But in my estimation, 60 psi wouldn't be enough to keep the float up and provide enough air to blow out the sprinkler lines.
Your model doesn't have a portion of the vent float that extends through the bonnet so there is not an easy way to manually keep the float in place.
Maybe someone else has a solution for your model but I have not heard any.
Thank you for your assistance. I purged my system by removing the internals and sealing the top with industrial grade film reinforced with the factory bonnet. But, curiosity got the better of me and I had to try again. (through pbv)
I finally got it right. 60lbs of pressure was sufficient. My issue was that both my inlet and outlet valves were open. Because of that, I could not generate enough pressure. Once I shut both down, I’d open the inlet slowly and the pvb sealed itself after 3-5 seconds of flapping around. Then I opened the outlet valve and my zone started blowing out.
My main problem is low water pressure, could this fix that
Not sure what you mean. You have low water pressure and could putting one of these in fix that...no it wouldn't.
If you mean could this be the cause of the low water pressure, perhaps. What is the line pressure before and after the backflow? You should lose a few psi from one side of the backflow to the other.
IF the parts inside are broken and restricting the flow this could be the cause.
Take it apart and see what you have going on and let me know.
Any inlet ball valve replacements? 😅
Yes, you can get ball valve replacements. Watts are pretty expensive. But for what model and size do you need one for?
How do you blow it out the water , what to open and close ?
I am not sure what you mean. Do you mean how to blow it out in the end of the season? Open and close? Depends on what you need to accomplish. You are welcome to call me so we can talk. 801-355-6736
What tool do you use to remove the check valve seat?
I am assuming you are referring to the 1" line size assembly? If it is I am told by Watts Technical it is a 1 1/2" socket. But I understand it needs to be a fairly thin walled one to be able to fit between the edge of the seat and the wall of the assembly.
What about 1 1/4" - 2"?
We got a new one of these last year, was working fine early spring this year. But now all of the sudden, it makes this horrible droning wailing noise and I can't figure out for the life of me what's wrong... help?
We may need to talk on the phone or email, but phone if we can. 801-355-6736. It can be a flow issue and maybe it is even that a component inside is broken or damaged. Does it only do it when certain zones are running or any zone? What is different about when it does it and doesn't do it? Have you taken it apart to inspect it?
Thank you
if I replace 3/4 with 1", would it function the same way?
Sorry for the delay in responding. Yes it would function the same.
hi i want to buy a rebuild kit for watts 3/4 009 M3-QT 2nd check can you tell me how much it cost and shipping to zip code 19135
thank you
Joseph, the part is $26.95. Depending on how you ship it, postal or UPS you could spend Just under $5.00 to maybe $12 with UPS. If you go through my online store it will show you the options and prices. Here is a link to the #2 check on my site and you can add it to your cart and you can see what shipping would be. backflow-supply.com/products/rk-009m3-ck2-3-4?_pos=1&_sid=c41bda194&_ss=r
how much is the whole unit cost
thank you
Federal law requires backflow devices to be tested annually by a Federally licensed tester.
Great job in explaining the process Guy in Colorado 061522
Thank you