I already watching this all the way through. I have a singer 66 I have started to take apart. I am letting it soak in some oil while I wait on my Chapman *pink case* tool set like yours comes in! Thank you for all the tips and tricks and I know I will be watching all these on repeat as I work on my first machine ❤. If it goes well I already have a 99 I got at the same time I will be doing next!
Removing badges is always hard but i always bang out the pins from inside, its harder the newer the machine but can be done , im working on a 1886 fiddle base 27 and they have a nice large back cover so its easy to remove but ive done a 15-91 successfully , if you pull the little plate off the electric motor you can tape the pully shaft , stuff pieces of paper towel in those holes to protect the coils inside and do nice light coats of spay paint and it will be fine , i just repainted a necchi bu and it has the same motor , repainted the motor as well looks brand new ...great job and video thanks for taking us along with you , from a fellow collector to another .......
As to the pins for the medallion: those are rivets (just like on my 66). Do not try to pull them out, push them through and let them fall out of the bottom! I center punched and then drilled off the heads, then punched the stem of mine out. When first installed at the factory, they may have been driven (shop head) or clenched (stem bent over) ... either way it will be WAY easier to just push them through with a punch or equal sized drill bit, outside to inside. Love the series.
@@prometheansewingmachines Those plates get lost easily, expecially the front ones. So I think it must have been very common over the years just to use whatever plate you could slide in if the one from your own machine went missing, regardless of whether it matched. I think people were more interested in getting on with their sewing than worrying too much about how it looked (especially since you'd finished sewing you could "drop it away out of sight" ;-) I've even seen the 28 and 128 machines using the front slide plates from the full size- machines! They stuck out too far at the front but they still worked so...
So I was thinking of stripping s singer 403,down to the aluminun, and then polishing the aluninym and the clear co0ating it. I would like to know iif that would actually be feasible and look decent. What do you think, if you wouldn't mind opinionating.
Creatively you can do anything you want to! But in my opinion, I like the look of the bare metal of iron machines more than the aluminum ones. They seem to show a lot more character. But with that being said please go for it. A brushed aluminum look maybe using a clean wire wheel to give it a nice effect could be fun and then clear coat over that. At the worst, you could always paint over the clear coat for a more traditional look if you don't like it. Enjoy!
@@prometheansewingmachines So, those are good ideas for me to use or think about. I went to google images to see what a cast iron no paint sewing machine looks like, It was pretty. One thing is that oxydation of the iron still apparent, it seems like it might be interesting to try going down to the iron and then clear coating it in a vacuum or a nitrogen atomosphere, and see what it would look like with 0 oxydation. Aldo it made me think maybe using gun blueing on a cast iron machine might also be a neat style to try. Of course gun blueing is for steel,; I don't know how it would work on iron. Thanks for the tips
@@nmjerry did you see my Rosie industrial machine? She's half exposed 😁 ruclips.net/video/TDa_4JiigQc/видео.html And I was actually thinking about blueing a hand wheel today... Hmm
@@prometheansewingmachines Also, on the blueing , I think it would be irreversible, although it does partially evaporate over time, as I've seen people having to reblue their guns, but you could always see the bluing to some extent. I think clear coating it might solve that problem. Perhaps the worn gun blueing look might be good too,
Anyone got some tips on how to remove the shuttle timing eccentric bolts nut on the rear of the shaft? I used heat, wrenches, a small bit of light hammering to loosen, but mine is TIGHT. I have 90% disassembled the machine using the described methods but that one nut is very difficult to reach and it feels factor welded on in a way. I know its not. Help?
@@prometheansewingmachines thank you for your empathy. A second or fifteen try normally gets it. What wrench do you use to get that nut off the post (eccentric) that creates the pendulum motion of the shuttle?
@@prometheansewingmachines no. Do you have the adjustment manual for the 127/128? If so, its on Page 12, on the bottom about timing the shuttle. You will see in this video, you removed the arm rock shaft connecting the shuttle pitman screw stud (and shaft) to the shuttle carrier.
@@prometheansewingmachines OK I got it done. Propane torch on the post and nut area. Due to the area being freshly oiled, it started to smoke. No fear. I am a blacksmith too, so I know the metal would not fatigue or crack. After heating it properly (still a normal metal colour heat ie: black heat, not up to low red or more), the nut then moved with both a regular small 3/8" small open end wrench and the better suited ignition wrench in appropriate size. The nut didnt come off, but the post is eccentric which then adjust the timing of the shuttle carrier - all important. Now the machine works much better.
Looking forward to part 2!
Love the hand painted lines, well done you. 🙂 Keep going looking forward to where you'll go next...
That lead- in song is so cool!
Bob Fowler sent us over. I got a 27 treadle at am estate sale and am trying to get all the parts moving. Fun stuff.
Yay! That's my Dad singing 😊 thanks Bob for the shout out... Enjoy the puzzle!
That is sweet and touching that your Dad knows you so well and clearly loves and supports you.
I already watching this all the way through. I have a singer 66 I have started to take apart. I am letting it soak in some oil while I wait on my Chapman *pink case* tool set like yours comes in! Thank you for all the tips and tricks and I know I will be watching all these on repeat as I work on my first machine ❤. If it goes well I already have a 99 I got at the same time I will be doing next!
Oh be careful Beth, this becomes an addiction really fast!
Removing badges is always hard but i always bang out the pins from inside, its harder the newer the machine but can be done , im working on a 1886 fiddle base 27 and they have a nice large back cover so its easy to remove but ive done a 15-91 successfully , if you pull the little plate off the electric motor you can tape the pully shaft , stuff pieces of paper towel in those holes to protect the coils inside and do nice light coats of spay paint and it will be fine , i just repainted a necchi bu and it has the same motor , repainted the motor as well looks brand new ...great job and video thanks for taking us along with you , from a fellow collector to another .......
Oh my goodness, why didn't I think of that? I will definitely try to tap out from the inside next time! Thanks 😁😁
I was hoping you would show the work on the motor. I enjoy both of your channels
Maybe next time ☺️ still working on my basic soldering skills 😁
If your hubby records that song I'd buy it
where did you get the little ratchet? This is cool! I am glad you mentioned this channel in your other one!!!! Love this kind of stuff!
Yay! So good to see you over here 😊 the ratchet is part of the Chapman tools vintage sewing machine screw driver kit. Very helpful!
As to the pins for the medallion: those are rivets (just like on my 66). Do not try to pull them out, push them through and let them fall out of the bottom! I center punched and then drilled off the heads, then punched the stem of mine out. When first installed at the factory, they may have been driven (shop head) or clenched (stem bent over) ... either way it will be WAY easier to just push them through with a punch or equal sized drill bit, outside to inside. Love the series.
Thanks! I wish I had thought of that before. Definitely will do next time 😊
I envy your patience. How long does it take you to fix a machine approximately? That has to be more a labor of love than anything else.
Days... Weeks.... 🤣☺️😁 But I really enjoy the process
Where did you source the front needle plate?
It's clearly not a visual match for the rear needle plate.
That's how I got it. Strange to see a Blackside plate on her.
@@prometheansewingmachines Those plates get lost easily, expecially the front ones. So I think it must have been very common over the years just to use whatever plate you could slide in if the one from your own machine went missing, regardless of whether it matched. I think people were more interested in getting on with their sewing than worrying too much about how it looked (especially since you'd finished sewing you could "drop it away out of sight" ;-)
I've even seen the 28 and 128 machines using the front slide plates from the full size- machines! They stuck out too far at the front but they still worked so...
So I was thinking of stripping s singer 403,down to the aluminun, and then polishing the aluninym and the clear co0ating it. I would like to know iif that would actually be feasible and look decent. What do you think, if you wouldn't mind opinionating.
Creatively you can do anything you want to! But in my opinion, I like the look of the bare metal of iron machines more than the aluminum ones. They seem to show a lot more character. But with that being said please go for it. A brushed aluminum look maybe using a clean wire wheel to give it a nice effect could be fun and then clear coat over that. At the worst, you could always paint over the clear coat for a more traditional look if you don't like it. Enjoy!
@@prometheansewingmachines So, those are good ideas for me to use or think about. I went to google images to see what a cast iron no paint sewing machine looks like, It was pretty. One thing is that oxydation of the iron still apparent, it seems like it might be interesting to try going down to the iron and then clear coating it in a vacuum or a nitrogen atomosphere, and see what it would look like with 0 oxydation. Aldo it made me think maybe using gun blueing on a cast iron machine might also be a neat style to try. Of course gun blueing is for steel,; I don't know how it would work on iron. Thanks for the tips
@@nmjerry did you see my Rosie industrial machine? She's half exposed 😁 ruclips.net/video/TDa_4JiigQc/видео.html
And I was actually thinking about blueing a hand wheel today... Hmm
@@prometheansewingmachines No, But I was just watching it. Should be exciting to see if you do it. Seems like one might need frames just to test on.
@@prometheansewingmachines Also, on the blueing , I think it would be irreversible, although it does partially evaporate over time, as I've seen people having to reblue their guns, but you could always see the bluing to some extent. I think clear coating it might solve that problem. Perhaps the worn gun blueing look might be good too,
How about a 1927 handcrank
Yep, this could be a hand crank!
Anyone got some tips on how to remove the shuttle timing eccentric bolts nut on the rear of the shaft? I used heat, wrenches, a small bit of light hammering to loosen, but mine is TIGHT. I have 90% disassembled the machine using the described methods but that one nut is very difficult to reach and it feels factor welded on in a way. I know its not. Help?
I feel your pain ... You've done all I usually do, then walk away, come back and go thru the process again.
@@prometheansewingmachines thank you for your empathy. A second or fifteen try normally gets it. What wrench do you use to get that nut off the post (eccentric) that creates the pendulum motion of the shuttle?
If you mean the big one, the big pivot screwed into the casting. I've left it on this time. It was not going to budge and not worth my sanity 🤣
@@prometheansewingmachines no. Do you have the adjustment manual for the 127/128? If so, its on Page 12, on the bottom about timing the shuttle. You will see in this video, you removed the arm rock shaft connecting the shuttle pitman screw stud (and shaft) to the shuttle carrier.
@@prometheansewingmachines OK I got it done. Propane torch on the post and nut area. Due to the area being freshly oiled, it started to smoke. No fear. I am a blacksmith too, so I know the metal would not fatigue or crack. After heating it properly (still a normal metal colour heat ie: black heat, not up to low red or more), the nut then moved with both a regular small 3/8" small open end wrench and the better suited ignition wrench in appropriate size. The nut didnt come off, but the post is eccentric which then adjust the timing of the shuttle carrier - all important. Now the machine works much better.