I like to aid solo with a silent partner. Curious what others like to use since it's being asked. Disclaimer: I am just fooling around at crags. Nothing this big yet.
Ya I don’t have a silent partner but that would be a good device for this for sure. I used a revo for this climb, it’s been the best device for aid soloing that I’ve used so far.
The rope flows freely out of the revo where as when you use the Grigri you have to stop every 10 or 20 feet to pull rope through. When your aid climbing it doesn’t matter as much, but when you step out of the alders to walk up on a ledge or pull a couple of free moves having the Revo makes all the difference.
@@ryantilley9063 in one other video you said the Revo doesn't catch, so how come you use it here? honest question, i am thinking to buy one as well, but want to make sure i buy the right thing..Thanks
I did some more personal testing with the revo after that video and with all the other comments I got from other folks that used the revo and said it was fine. I think the main thing was I didn’t have a good testing area, I should’ve used a steeper section of wall. I’m more testing I did on my own I did get the revo to catch plenty of times, and it really did help us Wong that device vs dealing with the Grigri, mainly when I transitioned to short sections of aid climbing.
@@ryantilley9063 i was just looking at your other videos and they gave me more hope for the device. i just received the Camp Goblin for the top rope solo, and it works great, but for the lead solo i think maybe the Revo is better. Thanks for replying so fast
Hey Ryan. I had a question about mountaineering boots. What are your thoughts on buying used boots for a beginner thinking about taking up mountaineering? Thank you, I enjoy your vids.
Hey man, ya buying a used pair of boots to get into mountaineering is a great way to get into it. A lot of companies use la sportiva Nepal evo’s and Nepal cube’s as part of their rental fleet. You could ask them about if they could resell you a pair. Craigslist or eBay could probably get you some good pairs too. Happy climbing, and thanks for the comment!
For this climb and others like it you walk off from the top to a separate rappel route. It’s pretty common with routes in the desert, some other climbs in Zion after you climb to the top you can walk a hiking trail all the way back to your car without rappelling at all
Amazing! I am super jealous. I wish I could be this skilled and badass. Great work. I have one question: you point the camera down at the first chains for the first rappel....and it looked like there was no ledge, no easy way to get to them. How did you get to those chains to set up your first rappel? Maybe there is some super obvious thing I am missing, but I would like to know how you handled it. Thanks so much for the great content!!
Looking at the video it seems pretty steep, but it’s a really low angled slab where the chains are, about 10 feet below them is the drop off where you rappel like 15 feet to the sandy part.
Really cool view from the top! The contrast between the red sandstone walls and lush green plant life is surreal. It looks like you have a ton of tricams on your rack. Do you usually carry and place that many when free climbing, or are they just convenient when aiding because they're lighter and you usually have a good stance (hanging on gear) to spend a few extra seconds placing them?
I have been trying to bring them out with me more when free climbing, but still don’t really use tricams that much when free climbing. I hear if you go to the east coast that’s where climbers use them a whole lot, not so much on the western half. However you really need them for sandstone aid climbing, you get these flared out pods that don’t fit cams or stoppers and that’s where the tricams really come into play. So I don’t really use them free climbing just in aid climbing.
Found the one guy keeping tricams alive
Super sick video
Thanks from Scottsdale for the awesome content, Ryan. I've been motivated to get back on the rock after some time off, and it's all your fault! Rick
Haha, well I’m sorry for all the trouble I caused you
I love aid climbing, it’s awesome.
I'm glad you had more than one pink tricam
It’s really funny, on this climb I used every tricam accept the pink ones, funny how things work out like that
@@ryantilley9063 exactly! Never give them up, they are the good luck totem 😂.
I like to aid solo with a silent partner. Curious what others like to use since it's being asked. Disclaimer: I am just fooling around at crags. Nothing this big yet.
Ya I don’t have a silent partner but that would be a good device for this for sure. I used a revo for this climb, it’s been the best device for aid soloing that I’ve used so far.
Great video dude! sorry I'm so late. Just wondering what kind of cams those were at 1:13? Thanks
Also happy holidays! Forgot it was Christmas!
No worries man, those things are called Tricams, I'm pretty sure the ones I have are made by C.A.M.P. Happy holidays to you too!
This is super dope man. I'm definitely looking into aid soloing. Quick question, why the Revo over say a GriGri?
The rope flows freely out of the revo where as when you use the Grigri you have to stop every 10 or 20 feet to pull rope through. When your aid climbing it doesn’t matter as much, but when you step out of the alders to walk up on a ledge or pull a couple of free moves having the Revo makes all the difference.
@@ryantilley9063 That makes perfect sense. Thanks for the reply!
@@ryantilley9063 in one other video you said the Revo doesn't catch, so how come you use it here? honest question, i am thinking to buy one as well, but want to make sure i buy the right thing..Thanks
I did some more personal testing with the revo after that video and with all the other comments I got from other folks that used the revo and said it was fine. I think the main thing was I didn’t have a good testing area, I should’ve used a steeper section of wall. I’m more testing I did on my own I did get the revo to catch plenty of times, and it really did help us Wong that device vs dealing with the Grigri, mainly when I transitioned to short sections of aid climbing.
@@ryantilley9063 i was just looking at your other videos and they gave me more hope for the device. i just received the Camp Goblin for the top rope solo, and it works great, but for the lead solo i think maybe the Revo is better. Thanks for replying so fast
Hey Ryan. I had a question about mountaineering boots. What are your thoughts on buying used boots for a beginner thinking about taking up mountaineering? Thank you, I enjoy your vids.
Hey man, ya buying a used pair of boots to get into mountaineering is a great way to get into it. A lot of companies use la sportiva Nepal evo’s and Nepal cube’s as part of their rental fleet. You could ask them about if they could resell you a pair. Craigslist or eBay could probably get you some good pairs too. Happy climbing, and thanks for the comment!
how do you go down from a wall that has no Top bolts? without leaving your gear?
For this climb and others like it you walk off from the top to a separate rappel route. It’s pretty common with routes in the desert, some other climbs in Zion after you climb to the top you can walk a hiking trail all the way back to your car without rappelling at all
@@ryantilley9063 what if you can't climb back ?
Amazing! I am super jealous. I wish I could be this skilled and badass. Great work. I have one question: you point the camera down at the first chains for the first rappel....and it looked like there was no ledge, no easy way to get to them. How did you get to those chains to set up your first rappel? Maybe there is some super obvious thing I am missing, but I would like to know how you handled it. Thanks so much for the great content!!
Looking at the video it seems pretty steep, but it’s a really low angled slab where the chains are, about 10 feet below them is the drop off where you rappel like 15 feet to the sandy part.
Really cool view from the top! The contrast between the red sandstone walls and lush green plant life is surreal.
It looks like you have a ton of tricams on your rack. Do you usually carry and place that many when free climbing, or are they just convenient when aiding because they're lighter and you usually have a good stance (hanging on gear) to spend a few extra seconds placing them?
I have been trying to bring them out with me more when free climbing, but still don’t really use tricams that much when free climbing. I hear if you go to the east coast that’s where climbers use them a whole lot, not so much on the western half. However you really need them for sandstone aid climbing, you get these flared out pods that don’t fit cams or stoppers and that’s where the tricams really come into play. So I don’t really use them free climbing just in aid climbing.
Awesome! How is your solo gear set up?
Judging by the shadow at 1:09 mark i think he has a revo :D
Ya I used a revo for climbing up, then I rappelled down with a Grigri to clean the route.
I wouldnt be able to help myself from free climbing! haha