fb://group/471494250512604?ref=share This is our Facebook group we should go there and ask around there's a lot of really qualified contractors in that group
Amazing video but it's a negative on the bottom side you should over lap it ontop of the existing metal with a hem the top side and the transition is perfect however
At a ridge line , down 12 inches, there is a slight change in pitch of the roof deck it's about 1 inch. Then, as you follow the roof it fades back and the ridge is in line with the deck. So not all the panels along that area would have to be conditioned. I wonder how this would look? Do you sell those tools? Thank you
Thanks for watching ... probably not. best to practice a bit first before doing the final to make sure your good...heres my tool list download with most of the essesntials geni.us/buying-guide
@asm101 Thank you, I'm going to take my time. It's my own house. I think I figured it out just by watching videos here. Starting at the ridge all the way to the eave, there is a difference in the decking because the ridge beam had a slight sag. So the centerline of the ridge beam is now centered, but the plywood is slightly higher in the center over about 20 feet across a 42 ft ridge. The line at the ridge is totally level. So, I'm thinking all I need to do is use 1 x as a spacer or shim under that section where it's lower. Because if it were to be fastened down the way it is, the panels would buckle. I know this sounds ridiculous. And I believe there is a way to correct this. And now I see it. I've never installed a standing seam metal roof, but I'm no stranger to doing it right. Like I said, the ridge plywood is level all across. it's just about 12 inches below that there is a dip in the roof. It's not noticeable, but I can't just install it to the deck. I'm going to have to shim or batten that area first. I'll use Mason line and get a grid going and flatten it out. Everything is a lot of work.. maybe even some of those high cleats might work just for that area to hold the panels level from eaves to Ridge? I used sharkskin SA over the whole deck. Thanks for your reply 👍
This is great! I have a roof coming up with a small transition that I want to try this on. Only area of concern for me is where the transition tie-in happens. In the past, using flashing, I have been able to tie in a transition similar to a valley but with out flashing I'm scratching my head on the best way to do this. Do you have a video of going from non transition to transition using this method?
Well you usually always put a drag screw at the top Corner of a panel to begin with thats hidden behind the ridge flashing z girt. As for the bottom the screw is just to illustrate purposes obviously you would have a hemmed bottom that hooks onto a starter flashing.
There is a cutoff point on what angle you can do this at I would say 312 to a 10:12 is the max angle you would have to lay that out though I don't have it in front of me to tell you the exact angle in degrees
Only way to find out is to try it....and try it afew times....don't give up right away...these details take time to perfect for you to be able to make the decision whether it can be done or not
You guys need to stop teaching people the wrong things everything your do is for hemlock it’s nice work but not possible with any other types of stand and steam 90 percent of people will not pay for it doesn’t mean that it’s wrong to us transition it’s how they require you to do it stop saying it’s wrong unless your talking about hemlock only other wise this is usless
Man I wish I had someone like you that actually cared about doing a good job to do my roof.
Whereabouts are you located?
@@asm101 Madison, Wisconsin
fb://group/471494250512604?ref=share
This is our Facebook group we should go there and ask around there's a lot of really qualified contractors in that group
Excellent!!
Thats cool, way better looking than a transition metal flashing there
J’aime vos vidéo chers MR Phorthman 👍😲👏c bien fait merci pour le partage !
Bro that is genius, and I never thought about that
Takes one to know one i guess
Amazing video but it's a negative on the bottom side you should over lap it ontop of the existing metal with a hem the top side and the transition is perfect however
Beautiful
At a ridge line , down 12 inches, there is a slight change in pitch of the roof deck it's about 1 inch. Then, as you follow the roof it fades back and the ridge is in line with the deck. So not all the panels along that area would have to be conditioned. I wonder how this would look?
Do you sell those tools? Thank you
Thanks for watching ... probably not. best to practice a bit first before doing the final to make sure your good...heres my tool list download with most of the essesntials geni.us/buying-guide
@asm101 Thank you, I'm going to take my time. It's my own house. I think I figured it out just by watching videos here.
Starting at the ridge all the way to the eave, there is a difference in the decking because the ridge beam had a slight sag. So the centerline of the ridge beam is now centered, but the plywood is slightly higher in the center over about 20 feet across a 42 ft ridge. The line at the ridge is totally level. So, I'm thinking all I need to do is use 1 x as a spacer or shim under that section where it's lower. Because if it were to be fastened down the way it is, the panels would buckle. I know this sounds ridiculous. And I believe there is a way to correct this. And now I see it. I've never installed a standing seam metal roof, but I'm no stranger to doing it right. Like I said, the ridge plywood is level all across. it's just about 12 inches below that there is a dip in the roof. It's not noticeable, but I can't just install it to the deck. I'm going to have to shim or batten that area first. I'll use Mason line and get a grid going and flatten it out. Everything is a lot of work.. maybe even some of those high cleats might work just for that area to hold the panels level from eaves to Ridge? I used sharkskin SA over the whole deck.
Thanks for your reply 👍
This is great! I have a roof coming up with a small transition that I want to try this on. Only area of concern for me is where the transition tie-in happens. In the past, using flashing, I have been able to tie in a transition similar to a valley but with out flashing I'm scratching my head on the best way to do this. Do you have a video of going from non transition to transition using this method?
Not sure what situation your talking about...need more information...email me alex@asm101.com
This is awesome..
Thanks my friend we love what we do
But you put screws in the panels in this demo, so....
They wouldn't effect anything but since you said it I'll another test without them in so there's no confusion
Well you usually always put a drag screw at the top Corner of a panel to begin with thats hidden behind the ridge flashing z girt. As for the bottom the screw is just to illustrate purposes obviously you would have a hemmed bottom that hooks onto a starter flashing.
Great video guys. What's that block tool called?
Thanks my friend... We do a water test in this video too ruclips.net/video/sBvvnWgFdYU/видео.html .. The block is a PVC seaming anvil
Have you ever overlapped standing seam
Yes sir
That’s awesome
Don't need snips, just 4 other obscure purchases 😅
Better than notching and praying
When that area leaks with a transition where does the water usually show up.
Next video were doing shows that stay tuned
What about the opposite way, Scandinavian style?
Not sure what ur saying
@@asm101 going from roof pitch to siding with no seam. Would seem easier. I see it a lot in Scandinavian builds.
Does this work for wall to roof transition? From wall to gable roof?
There is a cutoff point on what angle you can do this at I would say 312 to a 10:12 is the max angle you would have to lay that out though I don't have it in front of me to tell you the exact angle in degrees
Much easier to snip it and seal it
Have you ever done this detail
Do you ever use striated panels
Yes of course.... Do you?
@@asm101 yeah never used a flat one like that, only been doing sheet metal for 2 years though so I'm sure I will soon.
Sheer Butchery !
Well, I guess I won't be opening a butcher shop anytime soon!
Is this do able with 032 aluminum?
Only way to find out is to try it....and try it afew times....don't give up right away...these details take time to perfect for you to be able to make the decision whether it can be done or not
Yes is works with .032 aluminum we do it all the time just dont be so rough with it since it it lighter than 24 gauge steel
How much of a transition can you actually make doing that method?
My max was 3:12 to 10:12 if my memory serves me right
🤔
Супер.
English?
😂
First comment
You guys need to stop teaching people the wrong things everything your do is for hemlock it’s nice work but not possible with any other types of stand and steam 90 percent of people will not pay for it doesn’t mean that it’s wrong to us transition it’s how they require you to do it stop saying it’s wrong unless your talking about hemlock only other wise this is usless
So your going to use snap lock on a pitch less than 3/12?
@@asm101 1.5” Snap Lock
Installation: Can be installed on solid wood decking
Minimum Slope: 3:12
1.75” Snap Lock
Installation: Can be installed over open frame steel purlins, steel decking, steel decking with polyiso board, or solid wood decking
Minimum Slope: 2:12 (hot melt required below 3:12)
@@aurorasplawn5024 I know this about snap lock and am dead against it....relying on caulking is dangerous
do it without putting screws please