Really struggled with my attempts to make tubeless my fatbike, and was ultimately unsuccessful. Your video gives me ideas and tricks that I did not know
Thanks for the video. It was a relatively easy conversion with only a couple leaks around the valve and the tape overlaps. Be extra careful here and you shouldn’t have any issues. I used the Fillmore valves and I was able to easily set the bead with my floor pump at 160 psi.
In my understanding, tubeless ready means that you can run inner tube and run with out the inner tube, so yes these rims are tubeless ready. The Fat bike, Bigfoot, has not been ridden for a few months now, and it is still holding air. If you can do it, I definitely recommend going tubeless, I have not had to stop for a tire repair in years on my trail bike.
Hey Matt, thanks for the kind comment. It is from Canadian Tire, Mastercraft brand, can't recall the name of it nor can I find it in their online store anymore. It does inflate presta and schrader, but it is finicky for sure. Honestly because of how finicky that is, especially for presta, I am not sure I would recommend, but just my opinion :)
@@mattb7756 I use a regular air nozzle (blow gun attachment, with a safety tip) with a 3/8" hose zip tied tight on it. The other end of the hose slips over the presta with the core removed and slides over the valve stem retainer ring-nut. I've seated all sorts of tires with it, works like a champ.
How long did you let the tire sit while inflated with the tube? I tried this earlier today and couldn't get the bead to stay put when I tried removing the tube. I only waited a bit over two hours. I've got it set up again with the tube in and am going to try again after it sits overnight.
The studs I picked up from my local bike store, and for these tires, I believe it required 300 studs. It ended up costing me around 300 dollars. And took me about 4 hours to install every one of the studs. The studs I used are Terrene tungsten triple point studs. I am going to have a video coming out in the next few months to show my process, which works well, but is still time consuming. This year I was seriously considering just having 2 sets of tires, studded and not studded, but because the studs I purchased are practically brand new, I am going to do the install again, and evaluate the tire next year. I would check you local bike store, as I bet more winter riding accessories will start coming in.
@@bermbossmtb It's not a cheap endeavor eh? I just picked up a fat tire ebike. I live in Northern Ontario. Are studs really that necessary? I plan on letting air out my tires from 20 to 10 psi or less come winter. What do you think?
@@loosemouthcowboy4790 you are correct, it is not a cheap endeavor, and I guess whether you need them might come down to that time you slide out, which is what happened to me, when I was riding on a local street with my dog. We both hit the turf pretty hard, so I just feel safer now with them on. And I am in Western Alberta, and fat bike in the mountains, and I would not dare do those trails without studs. I would recommend going down in tire pressure for sure, I run less than 10, usually about 8. Super tough for me to say exactly what you should do, but be safe either way. If you rode snowy cross country trails all the time, then probably don't need them. But if you get on any type of descent, or icy conditions, think of it as a car tire, and you can lose grip pretty quick. Hope that helps and super pumped you got yourself a fat bike. They are so fun, hope you enjoy!
Can I do this, and then bring a tube, so that in case of a flat tyre I can put the tube in, pump it up, and continue riding? That way I save the weight of two tubes and eliminate the risk of being stuck in the mountains where there is no phone coverture.
That is exactly what I do, especially on the fat bike. But hopefully, the sealant will do its job, and you won't have to use the tube. But I do bring one when I go alone in the winter riding, just to be safe. 👍👍
@@bermbossmtb Awesome! Thanks. I just had a tyre changed. The mechanic decided to put a tube inside so I will not get stuck in the mountains. I had this idea and went to RUclips for an answer. I will do as you.
I went with the 42mm, but you should probably take a look at your current tube, and how much it sticks out, and then an easy way to judge is to measure that. There really isn't much of the valve that sits on the inside, it fits tight to the rim.
@@isaiahjohnson3464 that is what I used for mine (42mm actually). I would check the rim though, I don't want to tell you 100% that a 40mm is good. From my experience, the fat bike rims don't have a lot to them, in regards to the inside of the rim, they are pretty flat. So when you push the valve through the rim hole, I don't think having 5cm of valve exposed is necessary. But again, check your rim to see if the valve would sit flush. Hope that helps :)
The old rim tape was not tubeless, it is just present so the the inner rube will not go through the large holes in the fatbike rimes. You have to install tubeless specific tape that seals your rim so that you can pressurize the tire. There is many types of tubeless rim tape, for this one I just used Gorilla tape, due to the width and color.
Mine went flat over the summer sitting in the shed, but the tire should still be seated on the rim. I just pumped back up, and it is good to go. I did take out the tubeless valve and put more sealant in for the winter season. But whether you have fat bike or regular tubeless tires, you need to ensure you keep the sealant topped up 👍👍
No, you don't want the sticky side out. It would be towards the inside of the tire. If you go to about the 1:37 mark of the video, you can see that I add the orange tape to the rim to cover the holes (sticky side facing towards the tire), and then I add the larger tape, that seals up the rim, on top of that. That black tape would be the sticky side facing towards the orange tape, so that it keeps the orange tape in place, and then seals up the rim so that the sealant stays in side the tire and rim. Hope that helps?
I believe that most of the time it is recommended to use tires that claim that are "tubeless ready". I think it is especially important for fat bike, as seating the tires onto the rim for fat bike, is much more difficult than just your normal width mountain bike tire. Hope I answered your question?
Hey Ronald, that is awesome that you are thinking about getting into the whole fat biking world, I super enjoy it. In regards to what kind you need, that is very dependant on what purpose the bike is serving? Will it be your main bike, what weather will you be riding it in, where are you riding it, are you bike packing, do you need front forks, obviously budget, preferred tire size, etc. For me, my Bigfoot is my winter bike, as I live in the snow for practically half of the year :) So it is not intended as my main all year bike. However I do take out the studs in the spring, and have fun driving it around :) I would recommend doing an analysis on what the intended use is, and then if you have some more questions, reach back out to me? Hope you have some luck finding something, and pull the trigger, they are fun :)
Cut the rim plastic in half buy Nylon rim strips put the cut strips left-right add the nylon rim strip in the center use the widest Tubeless tape 35 mm and tape all together
The idea with this tubeless tape job, was to use a coloured gorilla tape, for some extra style 😀 You can use the tape width you recommend, for sure. The actual rim tape would probably be a bit lighter, but with my fat bike, I am not super concerned with a few extra grams of weight on the tires.
@@Dr4g0nW00d yep, you sure can, or just go to home depot and buy gorilla tape 😀 Lots of ways to skin a cat, this was one of the ways. I would not tell anyone how they should do it, this is how I did it.
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Really struggled with my attempts to make tubeless my fatbike, and was ultimately unsuccessful. Your video gives me ideas and tricks that I did not know
Thanks for the video. It was a relatively easy conversion with only a couple leaks around the valve and the tape overlaps. Be extra careful here and you shouldn’t have any issues. I used the Fillmore valves and I was able to easily set the bead with my floor pump at 160 psi.
Thanks for the tips on this! I had been wrestling with a set of Gnarwahl 27.5s for a day before finding your video. Worked first time I tried.
Thanks for the video man. About ready to do my conversion.
Very helpful
Thanks
Mark from Maryland
Great video bro
thanks for the tips, helped us!
Nice, can you tell me if your rim are tubeless ready? Great video, have a good one
In my understanding, tubeless ready means that you can run inner tube and run with out the inner tube, so yes these rims are tubeless ready. The Fat bike, Bigfoot, has not been ridden for a few months now, and it is still holding air. If you can do it, I definitely recommend going tubeless, I have not had to stop for a tire repair in years on my trail bike.
Questions:
1) Can any fat tire wheel be converted to tubeless, bead design not mattering?
2) can any fat tire work as a tubeless tire?
Thanks
Beautiful bike !!!
What are the widths of each of those rolls of gorilla tape?
I also used a compressor, because there is no way without it.
Great video! What compressor pump inflator attachment is that?
Hey Matt, thanks for the kind comment. It is from Canadian Tire, Mastercraft brand, can't recall the name of it nor can I find it in their online store anymore. It does inflate presta and schrader, but it is finicky for sure. Honestly because of how finicky that is, especially for presta, I am not sure I would recommend, but just my opinion :)
@@bermbossmtb thanks for the info. Looks like it’s difficult to find a good option to setup tubeless
@@mattb7756 I use a regular air nozzle (blow gun attachment, with a safety tip) with a 3/8" hose zip tied tight on it. The other end of the hose slips over the presta with the core removed and slides over the valve stem retainer ring-nut. I've seated all sorts of tires with it, works like a champ.
How long did you let the tire sit while inflated with the tube? I tried this earlier today and couldn't get the bead to stay put when I tried removing the tube. I only waited a bit over two hours. I've got it set up again with the tube in and am going to try again after it sits overnight.
If you don't mind could you tell me how much the studded cost you and where to buy them cheap if possible?
The studs I picked up from my local bike store, and for these tires, I believe it required 300 studs. It ended up costing me around 300 dollars. And took me about 4 hours to install every one of the studs. The studs I used are Terrene tungsten triple point studs. I am going to have a video coming out in the next few months to show my process, which works well, but is still time consuming. This year I was seriously considering just having 2 sets of tires, studded and not studded, but because the studs I purchased are practically brand new, I am going to do the install again, and evaluate the tire next year. I would check you local bike store, as I bet more winter riding accessories will start coming in.
@@bermbossmtb It's not a cheap endeavor eh? I just picked up a fat tire ebike. I live in Northern Ontario. Are studs really that necessary? I plan on letting air out my tires from 20 to 10 psi or less come winter. What do you think?
@@loosemouthcowboy4790 you are correct, it is not a cheap endeavor, and I guess whether you need them might come down to that time you slide out, which is what happened to me, when I was riding on a local street with my dog. We both hit the turf pretty hard, so I just feel safer now with them on. And I am in Western Alberta, and fat bike in the mountains, and I would not dare do those trails without studs. I would recommend going down in tire pressure for sure, I run less than 10, usually about 8. Super tough for me to say exactly what you should do, but be safe either way. If you rode snowy cross country trails all the time, then probably don't need them. But if you get on any type of descent, or icy conditions, think of it as a car tire, and you can lose grip pretty quick. Hope that helps and super pumped you got yourself a fat bike. They are so fun, hope you enjoy!
What years and model (3,2 or 1) is your big foot? It's a sick colour
It is a 2, and it is a 2020. Yeah very cool colour, goes good with the orange :)
@@bermbossmtb I have an orange and like mushroom colour one and they are the absolute best
@@smithyvlogs8616 👍👍
Can I do this, and then bring a tube, so that in case of a flat tyre I can put the tube in, pump it up, and continue riding? That way I save the weight of two tubes and eliminate the risk of being stuck in the mountains where there is no phone coverture.
That is exactly what I do, especially on the fat bike. But hopefully, the sealant will do its job, and you won't have to use the tube. But I do bring one when I go alone in the winter riding, just to be safe. 👍👍
@@bermbossmtb Awesome! Thanks. I just had a tyre changed. The mechanic decided to put a tube inside so I will not get stuck in the mountains. I had this idea and went to RUclips for an answer. I will do as you.
I want to see a 4.8 wide tyre but is Maxxis assegai
I just wish any Maxxis tyre was fatter than they are. I do like the 4.8 👍
What size tubeless valve do you need for a 26x4ich fat bike rim
I went with the 42mm, but you should probably take a look at your current tube, and how much it sticks out, and then an easy way to judge is to measure that. There really isn't much of the valve that sits on the inside, it fits tight to the rim.
@@bermbossmtb Do you think a 40mm valve would fit
@@isaiahjohnson3464 that is what I used for mine (42mm actually). I would check the rim though, I don't want to tell you 100% that a 40mm is good. From my experience, the fat bike rims don't have a lot to them, in regards to the inside of the rim, they are pretty flat. So when you push the valve through the rim hole, I don't think having 5cm of valve exposed is necessary. But again, check your rim to see if the valve would sit flush. Hope that helps :)
@@bermbossmtb thank you very much keep going on the great videos have a nice day
What is the reason for removing the old rim tape?
The old rim tape was not tubeless, it is just present so the the inner rube will not go through the large holes in the fatbike rimes. You have to install tubeless specific tape that seals your rim so that you can pressurize the tire. There is many types of tubeless rim tape, for this one I just used Gorilla tape, due to the width and color.
What happens if bike sits for month or 2 ?
Mine went flat over the summer sitting in the shed, but the tire should still be seated on the rim. I just pumped back up, and it is good to go. I did take out the tubeless valve and put more sealant in for the winter season. But whether you have fat bike or regular tubeless tires, you need to ensure you keep the sealant topped up 👍👍
That orange tape, when sticked inside the rim, the sticky side should be facing out between the hole right? So, that means dirt would stick to it?
No, you don't want the sticky side out. It would be towards the inside of the tire. If you go to about the 1:37 mark of the video, you can see that I add the orange tape to the rim to cover the holes (sticky side facing towards the tire), and then I add the larger tape, that seals up the rim, on top of that. That black tape would be the sticky side facing towards the orange tape, so that it keeps the orange tape in place, and then seals up the rim so that the sealant stays in side the tire and rim. Hope that helps?
Can I install tubeless tire without tubeless tire like maxxis
I believe that most of the time it is recommended to use tires that claim that are "tubeless ready". I think it is especially important for fat bike, as seating the tires onto the rim for fat bike, is much more difficult than just your normal width mountain bike tire. Hope I answered your question?
Boss what is your IG. Just want to talk to you about m dream I want to buy fat bike but I don't have I dea what kind of fat bike is best
Hey Ronald, that is awesome that you are thinking about getting into the whole fat biking world, I super enjoy it. In regards to what kind you need, that is very dependant on what purpose the bike is serving? Will it be your main bike, what weather will you be riding it in, where are you riding it, are you bike packing, do you need front forks, obviously budget, preferred tire size, etc. For me, my Bigfoot is my winter bike, as I live in the snow for practically half of the year :) So it is not intended as my main all year bike. However I do take out the studs in the spring, and have fun driving it around :) I would recommend doing an analysis on what the intended use is, and then if you have some more questions, reach back out to me? Hope you have some luck finding something, and pull the trigger, they are fun :)
Okay thank you sir and I appreciate your suggest even I'm not perfect in English hehehe don't worry I will contact you soon 😁
Cut the rim plastic in half buy Nylon rim strips put the cut strips left-right add the nylon rim strip in the center use the widest Tubeless tape 35 mm and tape all together
The idea with this tubeless tape job, was to use a coloured gorilla tape, for some extra style 😀
You can use the tape width you recommend, for sure. The actual rim tape would probably be a bit lighter, but with my fat bike, I am not super concerned with a few extra grams of weight on the tires.
@@bermbossmtb you can buy different rim strip colors
@@Dr4g0nW00d yep, you sure can, or just go to home depot and buy gorilla tape 😀
Lots of ways to skin a cat, this was one of the ways. I would not tell anyone how they should do it, this is how I did it.
@@bermbossmtb yes indeed if it works the better