www.FPVCycle.com Table of Contents: 00:00 - Intro 01:04 - Insane concert video 03:02 - Why X8 7" 05:05 - 4S flight video - X8 7" 07:02 - Detailed review START 07:06 - Betaflight vs Emuflight 07:45 - Frame 08:16 - 6S flight video - X8 7" 10:32 - Kinda special arm spars 11:12 - Resonance issues 13:53 - Coaxial Kv variation 16:44 - Motor numbers - INTERESTING!! 20:12 - Battery considerations Y6 video: ruclips.net/video/i_RJJDsy_qs/видео.html&t= Motors: fpvcycle.com/collections/motors Frames: bit.ly/3FgiIeN Sonicare 5" frame: bit.ly/3IEz2Z4 The flight controller: bit.ly/3HjXmPu ND filter: bit.ly/3vsVcJN This video is fantastically awesome! UNTOLD festival movie: ruclips.net/video/v9Ic8u_V3Mo/видео.html Stay tuned to www.FPVCycle.com. We've been working extremely hard on a bunch of new things. ▼Join the FB group for more discussion: FPVCycle - Kabab FPV facebook.com/groups/379155946182689/ ▼ Tips? Patreon: bit.ly/2oGLP9b $1/mo from 1/4 of my subscribers will make me quit my job. Thank you -PayPal: www.paypal.me/kababfpv -Bitcoin: 1E4XZXoD4rS6MYWVWuenY7Kw2M1YgyNpoQ -Nano: xrb_1188ek5bd7tb9kw67asnp9o65byuoaxbtpxuznx1ribf75x78awywmakj55f -ETH: 0xD067F93811f2eC31CB1928901002dfdf9A492EF5 -LTC: La2KWYAjp4VT2Lq2M76pbjzXWvRyjpfCtG
Impressed by the concert video where fpv quad being involved in production. Can't imagine Fly over a thousand ppl, fireworks, stage, that was freaking awesome ... insane skill 🔥
What is the key to your amazing motion-blur? Is it because you absulutly rip at proximity to the ground? Or is it more the right settings and ND filter? My guess is that's an ND32 you're using?
The ND filter we have in the store. I developed it to look as close to invisable as possible on a budget. It's as clear as much more expensive filters and it's an nd16. I run the cam on auto and I think give it a max or min shutter speed or something. One obvious setting when you look at the menus.
Just looked. I set it to max iso 1600, min 100 and shutter speed of 1/60. That way the blur is consistent and the can is only shifting iso to compensate
I miss our talks :) Hmmm all very interesting ... I have to say though, recently started flying 8" stuff with the ultra high pitch props that are available in that segment and don't think I'll ever really go back to 7" until something similar is available perhaps. 8" on 2810 or bigger is just so fantastic, fun, fast, and still can be nimble. If you get a simple stout bottom mount frame that's light you can really mount a huge variety of packs and you end up with impressive agility and if you want just something that can fly forever by comparison to 5/7" stuff while maintaining a stupendous pace.
Great work Bob! The trials of tribulation is the hardest part I could only guess and hours of time put into your research and development is amazingly exciting for all to learn and apply by. I still have the floss v1 frame but need a new bottom plate due to it splitting by an arm strut section. Does your company still carry these frame parts? I ended up using a set of 6” arms on the 5” frame. Helps with stability and movability. Actually it’s my fastest rig I own at the moment. Gods speed buddy. Thank you for all that you do for us and yourself in this hobby. ;) 🤓
For your coaxial 2nd gear issue, have you tried different sized/pitched props? I was on the apc website and read this in their faq question about prop combos for coaxial motor setups: APC recommends that a larger diameter be used for the leading (upper) propeller and a higher pitch be used for the trailing (lower) propeller. For example: an 11×4.5MR for the leading blade and the 10×5.5MRP for the trailing blade. This will provide more balanced loading on the motors and make the multi-copter more efficient. Its clearly for larger craft, but I wonder if it could help with this particular issue. Instead of staggering your upper and lower motors using those little extension tabs going to the sides, you could just extend in line with the arms and create room for larger props up top at the same time
There are a couple of research papers out regarding small UAV and drone coaxial design, and they all come to this conclusion. Hope @KababFPV sees this and tries to implement
@@dgood9591 haha I hope he does to, however I'm under the impression that he's pretty far along with his next video on it. I've seen him talking a bit I'm the cinelifters Facebook page about this exact topic, I'm sure it'll be pretty interesting regardless
I've tried different sized, different pitched and different blade count props. They all have varying degrees of effect but the RPM change between top/bottom had more of an effect overall than prop swaps. I am however limited by prop choice. There just aren't that many props in these sizes.
Hey Bob I just wanna thank you for your hard work. I came back to hobby after couple years of break. A lot has changed since then... But I remember the times you were posting videos quite regularly. I hadn't known how much value they had until I came back to see that this channel is no logner 'as' alive. Thank you for the knowleadge you have passed in those films. Cheers mate :)
@@Kabab For real. I've completely given up on BF. I tried Emu for a bit and it was pretty good, but the latest iNav is flying pretty solid for me on larger rigs (7-"9") and has working altitude hold, position hold, and a solid RTH that lands within 2ft of where it took off, completely hands off like a mavic. It's pretty crazy to have that level of autonomy on an FPV rig. Being able to put your drone in "park" while you take off your goggles to adjust something or re-assess a situation is such a nice feature to have, particularly in situations where you need to hand launch / catch LOS due to unfavorable takeoff / landing location.
Was very pleasantly surprised to see this pop up in my feed 😁 Glad to know you doin aight & Sall good man everyone gets busy; These fancy GPVCycle motors ain't free shitttttttt we all been busy grinding hahahahaha
If there’s only one thing I consistently do ever since I started following you it’s floss. I recently had extensive dental work done and now all the gaps between my teeth are so large flossing five times a day between anything I eat is ridiculously necessary... you officially have a convert!
Hi, i know you tested different kinds of motors for your toothpick builds. In your opinion which motor will work better for a 1s 2.5 inches toothpick between 1102 18000kv and 1202.5 11500kv? ( If you have other options let me know) thank you 👍
1202.5 will absolutely 100% without exception perform better with respect to control. The 1102 might be slightly faster overall but won't be as enjoyable to fly because of the limited control.
How am I supposed to remember to floss if you go this long between videos? Thanks for all the interesting content. And don't worry, I've flossing even though you haven't been reminding me lately.
Hey Kababfpv I really really lobe your contents and your parts , what I didn't understand was why Justin is not just stepping up to 12S on a 7 inch like me, I am a fulltime Pilot flying 90 percent Motorsports drift , dragrace,,stockcar and rally thats m, shots, I had the same like Justin, less speed by using to much amps, now I fly my 7inch as a 12S with 2x1380mah 6S lipos I get about 12min of flightime and I can push it way over the 220kmh mark
The issue is the complexity of charging and flying. Right now he runs just one battery. 12S will require two 6S packs and takes more time between flights. It's just himself flying. He doesn't have an assistant to swap quads. Also, he doesn't even fly 6S. He flies 5S because you get more flight time by having a larger capacity pack than a higher voltage one so he's much more limited still. 12S is definitely the way to go however. Just not convenient because of the battery/charger issue.
More Kababble. :D Yes, Bob does tend to rattle on here and there, but it's usually entertaining. While I don't always agree with his conclusions, I can't argue with his determination to experiment and improve. He certainly has refined his designs to a high degree. This has resulted in my favorite quad in my fleet being my ToothFairy which is solid as a rock and nimble too. Keep it up Bob, I'm still watching and waiting to see what's next. :)
I dunno if I edited it out but the issue with moving up in prop size is that while you get a higher cruise, you get a lower top speed unless you build the quad with immense power specifically for speed. If built for speed you tend to get pretty bad efficiency. 7"-8" has been the sweet spot as far as my testing goes so far. Also, moving up in prop size causes a drop in control response. Pretty significant drop. I won't fly something that I don't have good control of. I'll step back into the 5" in that case. That being said, yeah this light X8 research is looking like it'll lead to 10" on maybe 2506 size motors even if the appropriate prop exists. It's only 3" bigger than 7" so the whole thing would scale really easily.
@@Kabab Yeah I don't know either, I'm just think out loud, my experience is that my 10" (3115 motors and 6s4000 mAh battery) is looks really efficient at higher crousing speed compared to my 7" and I like how agile it is. I don't know it's enough for following cars, but I remember that there is a guy who following f1 cars with xclass drones beause of this speed problem. Let me search who was it :)
Did you ever get a chance to test same kV on top and bottom as a control to compare to? With 8-9" coaxial X8 I found with 900kV on top and 1115kV on bottom performance didn't change much and I actually lost a bit of efficiency. The "freeing" feeling you described I was able to achieve by running triblades on top and biblades on bottom. Maybe with much larger heavier builds these things don't always scale like expected...
interesting. This thing definitely feels much more 'free' than any other coaxial setup I've flown but it's entirely possible it's a result of the favorable disk loading proportions too. I'll know with the next test. Triblades on top and twins on bottom or vice versa is really a total unknown. twins can spin faster because of less drag so maybe they were picking up in the RPM vs the thrust being produced from the top as opposed to the forward advancement ratio on top vs bottom?....so hard to tell....and yes, as I've learned first hand and explain at the end, just because what I'm doing here might work doesn't mean it'll work on a full weight cinelifter. We don't totally know what's going on still.
7:30 I am late, but I will say, those shakes are from the higher than needed I gains, or low PD gains. BF stock tune is for the light racing rig, you need to drag the sliders a bit for other types of the rigs, I had the same issue on 7 inch, and on 3inch cinewhoop too, thats a common thing for their stock tune.
Haven't flown in 3-4 years and just decided to pull ol butterflight out of the closet and fix her. Idk what to buy after I smash this thing into a tree and decide to build something new so much has changed.
Hey Bob. Did you consider removing the bell from the lower motors and stripping the threads and screwing from inside the bottom motor to the top motor? This will be a solution that would make a lighter less vibration prone craft. The bell securing screw being missing, shouldn't cause any issues.
That's sort of a lot of work. I'm not trying to make a one off craft. Also can't quite put the bell back on once the two motors are mounted to the frame.
Maybe not a bad idea, should still work, even without screwing back the bell on the bottom motor, since the magnets are more than strong enough to hold it in place while not flying and while flying, the lift of the props is pushing the bell up against the stator...🤔
The coaxial group with different kv is my personal logical reasoning too. with this coaxial engine offset, even more than vibration problems, it is offset gyroscopic torque problems that create problems
Notes about betaflight are ridiculous lol. For 2 years I been flying straight BF defaults, winning races and freestyle (even default rates). And my drones are not even pretty as yours, all beaten up racers, thin arms, bent bells. Anyone who is interested, check my channel, listen for motors and see yourself. I dare anyone can say they fly bad lol.
While you were gone, the hobby tanked. I covered my table of RC equipment with a blanket, so I don't have to look at it because it only makes me upset now. It's like having a dead corpse in your living room.
I’m glad you reminded me to floss! 😆 I have crooked wisdom teeth that I need to get removed. Is it bad that I just left them in and I’m 27 years old now?
Flying fpv over a big crowd with uncontrollable airspace sounds so super dodgy and illegal. If it gets tangled in confetty and crashed into someone oof.
7:06 I'm gonna go out on a limb and say you are not completely using BF defaults, and that you likely have FF too low or off. If you remove FF then you have to reduce iterm too (in BF). I realize lots of people dont like tuning, but if you like it enough to turn off FF, then you also have to reduce iterm to about equal or less than pterm (~0.5 Iterm slider). That's what's happening in your rig. It's just iterm-related wobble.
@@Kabab hmm that is unusual. I don't suppose you'd be willing to share a logfile? I'd be happy to bring it to the devs to help refine defaults if need be. If this happened on most of your rigs, it's certainly worth chasing down why.
@@PIDtoolbox I have been trying to get them to recognize how poorly things run for years. This experience is exactly the same on every quad larger than 3 in that I put it on. Every single quad. Not a single quad runs well and I will not waste my time tuning anything when I know that emu flight already works damn close to perfect on defaults. This particular quad was worse than most but I don't have any logs and I'm also not going to be repairing the broken motor to fly it again. I'm moving on to the next test platform. I am even more confused by how many people jump into defend betaflight when there are clearly options that take less work and perform the same if not better.
@@Kabab maybe I can help. Send a logfile so I can make some sense of it and I’m in a position to pass on info. I’m part of a private slack gp with the most active BF devs. That’d be really helpful
@@PIDtoolbox next time I load up BF I'll record something for you. For now, I have other thigs I need to work on first. This issue isn't isolated to just me. Lots of people have the same experience
FE has its limits, true that! It is NO surprise that differential motors helped. Years ago I did some experiments in coaxial props where did differential prop pitches and diameters. Since top or lead prop accelerates laminar flow to trail prop. Also the tip vorticies are a factor. My goal was to cancel noise (resonance) and optimize CFM to amp draw. Two get a two speed , high / low switch I halves the voltage. Tests were done with 12V computer fans on a super wicking evaporative cooling unit, which we used in our gyrocopters to fly in Arizona summer heat. Hope this gives you food for thought? Loved this content and your passion R&D. GREAT WORK!
I've got lots of those. I've had them for over 3ys and they're still going strong. Really good packs. Minimal degradation after a WHOLE LOTTA charge cycles. Those and my Pulse packs.
What you mean was.. "Its next level... dangerous" Even though I hate it, when flying over people bad things _could_ happen. That's why you don't fly over people. Cool shots though. Also, it would be neat if you could elaborate about the difference between EmuFlight and Betaflight. What do you mean? Looks like you are flying in the north valley. That dead brown is so distinctive..
Yeah that's the north valley. There's few places I can reliably fly around here unfortunately. Emuflight is based of BF 3.7. While BF took things in a very different direction with everything above that, emu starter from the last well performing version and made minor tweaks and additions from there before developing a different way to deal with vibrations. Today, BF has been nearly unusable to me for 2+yrs while Emu takes just about zero effort to setup and flies great. All I do is set my rates and I'm done. Default emu flies better than some of the best tunes I've ever gotten on the latest BF versions. Some people think emu is a scam and nothing special. I don't really care what anyone thinks. Emu works with no time or effort investment. BF may not ever work well for you. I'll take what works well now....
How much harder is it to fly the 7" X8 than a 5"? Some keep saying it's like another level of experience/knowledge.. but when I watch these videos.. they all seem to look the same.. e.g. the ability to fly this, or even the x8 9" cine lifters.. don't seem any different to me. So from someone on the controller flying one.. you obviously can't feel the weight of say an X8 9" carrying 8lbs of camera gear directly.. is it just the way it "floats" in turns (due to weight, distribution, etc) that make it harder to fly? I assume the other aspect is the bigger props are more dangerous.. e.g. don't be near one as it can do some serious damage to you.. and I would guess 7" is similar?
Larger crafts are not really that different. Yes you can absolutely feel the weight because the craft's inertia is so different in the air but overall, it's the same controls, just slower response. More thinking is involved because you need to understand the limitations of the craft before you put it in compromising situations which is pretty much all we do as FPV pilots. The overall danger is comparable to a typical 5" except that the blade force is higher if it strikes something and the weight is way higher if the craft happens to fall or something. Never mind the increased cost of things and that it's pretty much guaranteed to brake if it falls.
hinges or any moving joints in general are no good for vibrations. On a low powered craft it's not a big deal but if you're going for really tight control and high performance, you can't expect a loose joint to work out.
Almost a year ago, I had the same thought: "Wouldn't it be a lot more efficient and faster responding when the bottom motors of an X8 would be higher kV?" So glad that an experienced and dedicated man like you had the same idea and is actually testing it. And even better, that our thoughts seemed to be right. For the x mounting problem, you could cut a bit of the mounting end of the arm horizontally an have a similar shaped 2 or 3mm plate. Countersunk screws on both motors, then screw the parts together with 3 screws and pressnuts. Maybe not the easiest mount to work with, but would be pretty compact and same shape as X4 layout
Very cool stuff. Got emu downloaded and flashed yesterday. Can’t wait to give it a go. Was also wondering if the sonicare performs ok on 2306? I have a few sets laying around, and don’t have the dough to buy the imperials, and the frame at this time.
How do those concert flights work with air regulations? They're pretty tight over here when it comes to overflying uninvolved persons nevermind crowds (with there being no legal way to brief a whole concert into being 'involved') 🤔
Great to see some new 7 inch development after your first venture into the 7 unch frame I super excited with this. Really hope you have this 7inch available I've missed every one since the orginal that was robbed from me. Good to see you posting 👌
Hey Bob I’m binge listening to your channel while I’m at work welding, I’m planning on buying some motors as a treat to myself lol. But have you ever tried using the master slider only in betaflight? I just set mine to 1.3 and it makes a huge difference. Anyway no criticism from here. I don’t know enough to criticize lol just a thought
@@Kabab I’m sure you know more than I do.. Either way these a long form educational Videos you post are a lifesaver during a long Night at work I personally appreciate them
@@lordhenrix1510 I may or may not know more but that doesn't really matter. My goal is to do as little work as possible in order to get things flying at 90% of Max capability. I cannot stress how little I strive to do in order to get the best performance per unit of time spent. This is one matter that betaflight seems to not care at all about. They expect you to spend hours tuning each thing you build to get something that actually works let alone flies good
That's the tooth fairy 2 with your choice of motors. The 21mm is the lightest for 5" but I'd recommend the 5mm arms on the tooth fairy 2 with the 23mm tall motors
Not sure right now.....I wouldn't recommend 4S for 7" in general however. It's just not enough voltage and the batteries will struggle to supply the amperage to manage a craft of that size unless it's a middle or low performance craft. If you're just hovering around, it's completely fine.
21:45 "GNB kinda seems to drop a cell on packs that are about larger than 2000 milliamps, for some reason their cells above 2000 milliamps are problematic..." Oh... last week I received two 9000mAh GNB packs, a 3S & 4S which I'll be wiring in series to get 7S to re-cell my ebike battery. I hope I don't have any problems with them!
Something I've noticed about the 7035 Gemfan biblades is they come really out of balance. Maybe I just got a bad batch, but on my light 7" build with 1870kv imperial motors on 4s, swapping those out for the triblade version reduced vibrations a ton. Might be worth looking into a different 7" biblade if they still have balance issues so you don't need as much frame mass to counter the vibrations.
It's not specifically that blade, it's twin blades in general. When you have a tri-blade, you just have a better counterbalance on the blade so even if it is out of balance, it's not noticed. Twin blades will almost always be somewhat out of balance and because we are so sensitive to vibrations in our video feed, we see everything. Thankfully, in this situation, having so many blades seems to improve things quite a bit and I'm seeing very little issues in that department
I thought when you have motors of different kv the motors will default to the lowest of the kv? How can a motor spin faster then designed without burning up?
The FC doesn't manage motor rpm. It manages the response of the craft. So when I push the throttle up, the FC just says apply X% throttle to all motors. On the bottom, that X% just happens to be a higher RPM than the top. This only works in an octo because the top and bottom can operate 100% independent of each other. It cannot work on a Y6 setup or otherwise asymmetrical coaxial setup.
The top added piece thats added the additional oscillation you mentioned, is that due to the motors making the same power with same torsion but more forward because of its flat strength? Causing the props to not spin flat like the bottoms would?
Hard to describe but my best guess is that because the motors are somewhat around the same RPM a lot of the time, the rotations match up and in this case, because of the motor offset, the resulting oscillations are oblique and unpredictable. This is why the FC is having so much trouble. Oblique oscillations are the absolute worst to deal with.
that's exactly what I said when I saw them. I couldn't believe he flew through that. He had a schedule for when things were going off too so he was aware...MASSIVE balls
I tried that with the last build. That would work too but it's more difficult to find suitable props that match. It's easier to use the same prop all around and different kv. I can also control the kv more finely than the prop. There isn't a wide variety of 7" props out there that are worh trying on any build either.
I hear ya on being so busy I have a brand-new success set up with all of your parts on and it’s been built for two months now with being snowy in Michigan and busy at work I just haven’t been able to fly like I would want to but the days are getting longer and warmer. I’m glad to see some content back up as I always like seeing your views on our flying toys
@@Kabab now that surprises me. Did you use one of the presets. The Sonicare was good on default then after I put the freestyle preset.... mind blown. I've flashed a few bad flying quads and it has worked wonders
Very interesting how despite having so many motors and props spinning it is getting similar flight times with the same batteries! I can recommend the CNHL 6S 70C lipo, I've had good luck with that one personally if you are looking for a 2200mah 6s. Also the Hobbyking Rhino 2200mah 6S 50C is not bad either.
CNHL packs are fine but tend to be larger and overweight for their performance. They're cheap but the loss in value is greater than the reduced price imo. GNB packs under 2000mah are very good. I'm going to try and get the 1900mah high C GNB 6S pack to work for this craft.
Lol, Kabab comes of of a 3 month hiatus with a mixed kV coaxial hexa-quad. Do you think if we give him six months he’ll be working on nitro rocket quads?
Great analysis of your coaxial setup's handling! Instead of a Kv differential between the upper and lower sets of motors, have you tried running steeper pitched props on the lower set with similar Kv ratings? APC tends to be heavier but they've got a good selection of 5" and 7" bi-blade pitch options. 7x4 + 7x5 or 6 combos could be worth a try to help accelerate the initial thrust from the upper set instead of hitting rpm limits.
I tried different props but it's really hard to find a matching pair of props that would work well together. APC props tend to be rather inefficient for the task at hand. They're really good for speed but not so much for control and efficiency. Other props also are deceiving in their function. It's more difficult to find a matching pair rather than just upping the Kv. It's even more difficult to find a matching pair of twins and if you do find a matching set, you can't fine tune it. That being said, this may be the direction that we need to go if my theories about how the FC functions are incorrect.
This is still early stage testing. Hopefully the next iteration works as expected. If so, then I'll get a test frame batch. The same frame will work as a quad too.
Very impressed with this whole video. The frame is beautiful, the knowledge is insane and ability to make such a smooth and fast flight is astonishing. Well done sir.. You may have tempted me to make this 5" im looking to buid to become a 7" lol
Instagram photo has come to life! Really excited to see where this goes. I'll end up needing something like this for work, so you've already got yourself a buyer lol
It sounds really good... excellent attention to detail here, thank you for your work. Very interesting and engaging, I am interested to follow this project and see how it turns out. Personally, I think you are onto something here.
Can’t tell you how much I appreciate your real world testing. Have to agree on BF defaults, thankfully the new presets tab is incredibly useful and I actually like 4.3. Having said that I find it easier to run Emuflight on some quads, so I do. Easier is better. I think some people choose to ignore that tuning software is more than its PID’s, there is more going on under the hood.
Great video!! I to am trying to make a living chasing cars on track. Finding a quad that can keep up while also getting above 3 min of flight time has proven difficult. I'm excited to see you findings! Currently flying a 9" with 2816 motors and a 7" with 2810 1500 kV motors. Really interested in the x8 setup!
Nice build I like the push for innovation that's the whole idea of having a hobby aside from just flying good to see your making videos again looking forward to future videos again
Gotta get the props out of view. Don't have a choice unfortunately. It's less mechanically impactful to have a long neck than four longer arms AND still a long neck.
@@Kabab Oh, of course.. I got inspired by your video about Y6 and designed a similar frame myself, it's being made now. I'm not sure if it's going to have props in view, it wasn't my objective, but cg there is only few millimeters in front of the ct. Not sure i'm gonna be able to post any videos about it though
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www.FPVCycle.com
Table of Contents:
00:00 - Intro
01:04 - Insane concert video
03:02 - Why X8 7"
05:05 - 4S flight video - X8 7"
07:02 - Detailed review START
07:06 - Betaflight vs Emuflight
07:45 - Frame
08:16 - 6S flight video - X8 7"
10:32 - Kinda special arm spars
11:12 - Resonance issues
13:53 - Coaxial Kv variation
16:44 - Motor numbers - INTERESTING!!
20:12 - Battery considerations
Y6 video: ruclips.net/video/i_RJJDsy_qs/видео.html&t=
Motors: fpvcycle.com/collections/motors
Frames: bit.ly/3FgiIeN
Sonicare 5" frame: bit.ly/3IEz2Z4
The flight controller: bit.ly/3HjXmPu
ND filter: bit.ly/3vsVcJN
This video is fantastically awesome!
UNTOLD festival movie: ruclips.net/video/v9Ic8u_V3Mo/видео.html
Stay tuned to www.FPVCycle.com. We've been working extremely hard on a bunch of new things.
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$1/mo from 1/4 of my subscribers will make me quit my job. Thank you
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Did you try just extend the 2nd motor straight out the arm ?
Impressed by the concert video where fpv quad being involved in production. Can't imagine Fly over a thousand ppl, fireworks, stage, that was freaking awesome ... insane skill 🔥
Yeees finally a discussion video:) Missed it
What is the key to your amazing motion-blur? Is it because you absulutly rip at proximity to the ground? Or is it more the right settings and ND filter? My guess is that's an ND32 you're using?
The ND filter we have in the store. I developed it to look as close to invisable as possible on a budget. It's as clear as much more expensive filters and it's an nd16. I run the cam on auto and I think give it a max or min shutter speed or something. One obvious setting when you look at the menus.
Just looked. I set it to max iso 1600, min 100 and shutter speed of 1/60. That way the blur is consistent and the can is only shifting iso to compensate
@@Kabab thanks a bunch!
I miss our talks :) Hmmm all very interesting ... I have to say though, recently started flying 8" stuff with the ultra high pitch props that are available in that segment and don't think I'll ever really go back to 7" until something similar is available perhaps. 8" on 2810 or bigger is just so fantastic, fun, fast, and still can be nimble. If you get a simple stout bottom mount frame that's light you can really mount a huge variety of packs and you end up with impressive agility and if you want just something that can fly forever by comparison to 5/7" stuff while maintaining a stupendous pace.
Great work Bob! The trials of tribulation is the hardest part I could only guess and hours of time put into your research and development is amazingly exciting for all to learn and apply by. I still have the floss v1 frame but need a new bottom plate due to it splitting by an arm strut section. Does your company still carry these frame parts? I ended up using a set of 6” arms on the 5” frame. Helps with stability and movability. Actually it’s my fastest rig I own at the moment. Gods speed buddy. Thank you for all that you do for us and yourself in this hobby. ;) 🤓
For your coaxial 2nd gear issue, have you tried different sized/pitched props? I was on the apc website and read this in their faq question about prop combos for coaxial motor setups:
APC recommends that a larger diameter be used for the leading (upper) propeller and a higher pitch be used for the trailing (lower) propeller. For example: an 11×4.5MR for the leading blade and the 10×5.5MRP for the trailing blade. This will provide more balanced loading on the motors and make the multi-copter more efficient.
Its clearly for larger craft, but I wonder if it could help with this particular issue. Instead of staggering your upper and lower motors using those little extension tabs going to the sides, you could just extend in line with the arms and create room for larger props up top at the same time
There are a couple of research papers out regarding small UAV and drone coaxial design, and they all come to this conclusion. Hope @KababFPV sees this and tries to implement
@@dgood9591 haha I hope he does to, however I'm under the impression that he's pretty far along with his next video on it. I've seen him talking a bit I'm the cinelifters Facebook page about this exact topic, I'm sure it'll be pretty interesting regardless
I've tried different sized, different pitched and different blade count props. They all have varying degrees of effect but the RPM change between top/bottom had more of an effect overall than prop swaps. I am however limited by prop choice. There just aren't that many props in these sizes.
Was wondering where you've been, hope you're doing ok, very interesting video as always :)
Hey Bob I just wanna thank you for your hard work. I came back to hobby after couple years of break. A lot has changed since then... But I remember the times you were posting videos quite regularly. I hadn't known how much value they had until I came back to see that this channel is no logner 'as' alive. Thank you for the knowleadge you have passed in those films. Cheers mate :)
I'm working on an update to this video right now actually. I have more time now, coming back.
Betaflight devs are running in circles. You're not crazy. Hell, even iNav is flying better on defaults & easier to tune.
For two years!?
@@Kabab For real. I've completely given up on BF. I tried Emu for a bit and it was pretty good, but the latest iNav is flying pretty solid for me on larger rigs (7-"9") and has working altitude hold, position hold, and a solid RTH that lands within 2ft of where it took off, completely hands off like a mavic. It's pretty crazy to have that level of autonomy on an FPV rig. Being able to put your drone in "park" while you take off your goggles to adjust something or re-assess a situation is such a nice feature to have, particularly in situations where you need to hand launch / catch LOS due to unfavorable takeoff / landing location.
Was very pleasantly surprised to see this pop up in my feed 😁
Glad to know you doin aight & Sall good man everyone gets busy; These fancy GPVCycle motors ain't free shitttttttt we all been busy grinding hahahahaha
Thanks for the new video! Hope you'll have more free time to do whatever you want to do!
If there’s only one thing I consistently do ever since I started following you it’s floss. I recently had extensive dental work done and now all the gaps between my teeth are so large flossing five times a day between anything I eat is ridiculously necessary... you officially have a convert!
🎉
Hi, i know you tested different kinds of motors for your toothpick builds. In your opinion which motor will work better for a 1s 2.5 inches toothpick between 1102 18000kv and 1202.5 11500kv? ( If you have other options let me know) thank you 👍
1202.5 will absolutely 100% without exception perform better with respect to control. The 1102 might be slightly faster overall but won't be as enjoyable to fly because of the limited control.
You didn't put the name of the pilot who shoot during the concert, can you add it please, I have some question to ask him
Same
How am I supposed to remember to floss if you go this long between videos?
Thanks for all the interesting content.
And don't worry, I've flossing even though you haven't been reminding me lately.
Always a good day when you upload! Interesting stuff
my quad from 2019 just went up in flames. I want to replace the elctronics. what is the best 4 in 1 ESCs and FC for 6s that you recomend?
Hey Kababfpv I really really lobe your contents and your parts , what I didn't understand was why Justin is not just stepping up to 12S on a 7 inch like me, I am a fulltime Pilot flying 90 percent Motorsports drift , dragrace,,stockcar and rally thats m, shots, I had the same like Justin, less speed by using to much amps, now I fly my 7inch as a 12S with 2x1380mah 6S lipos I get about 12min of flightime and I can push it way over the 220kmh mark
The issue is the complexity of charging and flying. Right now he runs just one battery. 12S will require two 6S packs and takes more time between flights. It's just himself flying. He doesn't have an assistant to swap quads. Also, he doesn't even fly 6S. He flies 5S because you get more flight time by having a larger capacity pack than a higher voltage one so he's much more limited still. 12S is definitely the way to go however. Just not convenient because of the battery/charger issue.
More Kababble. :D Yes, Bob does tend to rattle on here and there, but it's usually entertaining. While I don't always agree with his conclusions, I can't argue with his determination to experiment and improve. He certainly has refined his designs to a high degree. This has resulted in my favorite quad in my fleet being my ToothFairy which is solid as a rock and nimble too.
Keep it up Bob, I'm still watching and waiting to see what's next. :)
Following fast things maybe you should go higher, like 10" quad?
I dunno if I edited it out but the issue with moving up in prop size is that while you get a higher cruise, you get a lower top speed unless you build the quad with immense power specifically for speed. If built for speed you tend to get pretty bad efficiency. 7"-8" has been the sweet spot as far as my testing goes so far. Also, moving up in prop size causes a drop in control response. Pretty significant drop. I won't fly something that I don't have good control of. I'll step back into the 5" in that case.
That being said, yeah this light X8 research is looking like it'll lead to 10" on maybe 2506 size motors even if the appropriate prop exists. It's only 3" bigger than 7" so the whole thing would scale really easily.
@@Kabab Yeah I don't know either, I'm just think out loud, my experience is that my 10" (3115 motors and 6s4000 mAh battery) is looks really efficient at higher crousing speed compared to my 7" and I like how agile it is. I don't know it's enough for following cars, but I remember that there is a guy who following f1 cars with xclass drones beause of this speed problem. Let me search who was it :)
Found it! ruclips.net/video/JfF149Le3Ww/видео.html But there isn't too much info here 😅😅 And I guess these are to big and expensive.
Did you ever get a chance to test same kV on top and bottom as a control to compare to? With 8-9" coaxial X8 I found with 900kV on top and 1115kV on bottom performance didn't change much and I actually lost a bit of efficiency. The "freeing" feeling you described I was able to achieve by running triblades on top and biblades on bottom. Maybe with much larger heavier builds these things don't always scale like expected...
interesting. This thing definitely feels much more 'free' than any other coaxial setup I've flown but it's entirely possible it's a result of the favorable disk loading proportions too. I'll know with the next test. Triblades on top and twins on bottom or vice versa is really a total unknown. twins can spin faster because of less drag so maybe they were picking up in the RPM vs the thrust being produced from the top as opposed to the forward advancement ratio on top vs bottom?....so hard to tell....and yes, as I've learned first hand and explain at the end, just because what I'm doing here might work doesn't mean it'll work on a full weight cinelifter. We don't totally know what's going on still.
7:30 I am late, but I will say, those shakes are from the higher than needed I gains, or low PD gains. BF stock tune is for the light racing rig, you need to drag the sliders a bit for other types of the rigs, I had the same issue on 7 inch, and on 3inch cinewhoop too, thats a common thing for their stock tune.
Haven't flown in 3-4 years and just decided to pull ol butterflight out of the closet and fix her. Idk what to buy after I smash this thing into a tree and decide to build something new so much has changed.
Hey Bob. Did you consider removing the bell from the lower motors and stripping the threads and screwing from inside the bottom motor to the top motor? This will be a solution that would make a lighter less vibration prone craft. The bell securing screw being missing, shouldn't cause any issues.
That's sort of a lot of work. I'm not trying to make a one off craft. Also can't quite put the bell back on once the two motors are mounted to the frame.
Maybe not a bad idea, should still work, even without screwing back the bell on the bottom motor, since the magnets are more than strong enough to hold it in place while not flying and while flying, the lift of the props is pushing the bell up against the stator...🤔
I’d love to know who the concert video pilot is. Are you able to share this?
ArealMediaPros is is company
@@Kabab thank you
The coaxial group with different kv is my personal logical reasoning too. with this coaxial engine offset, even more than vibration problems, it is offset gyroscopic torque problems that create problems
Notes about betaflight are ridiculous lol. For 2 years I been flying straight BF defaults, winning races and freestyle (even default rates). And my drones are not even pretty as yours, all beaten up racers, thin arms, bent bells. Anyone who is interested, check my channel, listen for motors and see yourself. I dare anyone can say they fly bad lol.
🤷🏻♂️
While you were gone, the hobby tanked.
I covered my table of RC equipment with a blanket, so I don't have to look at it because it only makes me upset now. It's like having a dead corpse in your living room.
😂🙈
I’m glad you reminded me to floss! 😆 I have crooked wisdom teeth that I need to get removed. Is it bad that I just left them in and I’m 27 years old now?
Flying fpv over a big crowd with uncontrollable airspace sounds so super dodgy and illegal. If it gets tangled in confetty and crashed into someone oof.
his flights are fully sanctioned. He's also flying a 230g AUW quad.
7:06 I'm gonna go out on a limb and say you are not completely using BF defaults, and that you likely have FF too low or off. If you remove FF then you have to reduce iterm too (in BF). I realize lots of people dont like tuning, but if you like it enough to turn off FF, then you also have to reduce iterm to about equal or less than pterm (~0.5 Iterm slider). That's what's happening in your rig. It's just iterm-related wobble.
This is full BF default. I only input my rates of 1.41 on pitch yaw roll and turn on RPMf. Nothing else has been touched.
@@Kabab hmm that is unusual. I don't suppose you'd be willing to share a logfile? I'd be happy to bring it to the devs to help refine defaults if need be. If this happened on most of your rigs, it's certainly worth chasing down why.
@@PIDtoolbox I have been trying to get them to recognize how poorly things run for years. This experience is exactly the same on every quad larger than 3 in that I put it on. Every single quad. Not a single quad runs well and I will not waste my time tuning anything when I know that emu flight already works damn close to perfect on defaults. This particular quad was worse than most but I don't have any logs and I'm also not going to be repairing the broken motor to fly it again. I'm moving on to the next test platform.
I am even more confused by how many people jump into defend betaflight when there are clearly options that take less work and perform the same if not better.
@@Kabab maybe I can help. Send a logfile so I can make some sense of it and I’m in a position to pass on info. I’m part of a private slack gp with the most active BF devs. That’d be really helpful
@@PIDtoolbox next time I load up BF I'll record something for you. For now, I have other thigs I need to work on first. This issue isn't isolated to just me. Lots of people have the same experience
FE has its limits, true that!
It is NO surprise that differential motors helped.
Years ago I did some experiments in coaxial props where did differential prop pitches and diameters. Since top or lead prop accelerates laminar flow to trail prop.
Also the tip vorticies are a factor. My goal was to cancel noise (resonance) and optimize CFM to amp draw. Two get a two speed , high / low switch I halves the voltage. Tests were done with 12V computer fans on a super wicking evaporative cooling unit, which we used in our gyrocopters to fly in Arizona summer heat. Hope this gives you food for thought? Loved this content and your passion R&D. GREAT WORK!
That's a good try but yeah wasn't going to work. Getting computer fans to stop making noise is extremely difficult.
U should try the ovonic 1000mah 6s super lightweight I run them on everything from 4" to 10" been flying them for about 2 years now
I've got lots of those. I've had them for over 3ys and they're still going strong. Really good packs. Minimal degradation after a WHOLE LOTTA charge cycles. Those and my Pulse packs.
What you mean was.. "Its next level... dangerous" Even though I hate it, when flying over people bad things _could_ happen. That's why you don't fly over people. Cool shots though.
Also, it would be neat if you could elaborate about the difference between EmuFlight and Betaflight. What do you mean?
Looks like you are flying in the north valley. That dead brown is so distinctive..
Yeah that's the north valley. There's few places I can reliably fly around here unfortunately. Emuflight is based of BF 3.7. While BF took things in a very different direction with everything above that, emu starter from the last well performing version and made minor tweaks and additions from there before developing a different way to deal with vibrations. Today, BF has been nearly unusable to me for 2+yrs while Emu takes just about zero effort to setup and flies great. All I do is set my rates and I'm done. Default emu flies better than some of the best tunes I've ever gotten on the latest BF versions.
Some people think emu is a scam and nothing special. I don't really care what anyone thinks. Emu works with no time or effort investment. BF may not ever work well for you. I'll take what works well now....
How much harder is it to fly the 7" X8 than a 5"? Some keep saying it's like another level of experience/knowledge.. but when I watch these videos.. they all seem to look the same.. e.g. the ability to fly this, or even the x8 9" cine lifters.. don't seem any different to me. So from someone on the controller flying one.. you obviously can't feel the weight of say an X8 9" carrying 8lbs of camera gear directly.. is it just the way it "floats" in turns (due to weight, distribution, etc) that make it harder to fly? I assume the other aspect is the bigger props are more dangerous.. e.g. don't be near one as it can do some serious damage to you.. and I would guess 7" is similar?
Larger crafts are not really that different. Yes you can absolutely feel the weight because the craft's inertia is so different in the air but overall, it's the same controls, just slower response. More thinking is involved because you need to understand the limitations of the craft before you put it in compromising situations which is pretty much all we do as FPV pilots. The overall danger is comparable to a typical 5" except that the blade force is higher if it strikes something and the weight is way higher if the craft happens to fall or something. Never mind the increased cost of things and that it's pretty much guaranteed to brake if it falls.
Fantastic flying, Bob! 😃
Really interesting quads! And... Flying things, I guess. 😬
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
How do folding or hinged props change coaxial performance? I would imagine it would help but I've never seen anyone try.
hinges or any moving joints in general are no good for vibrations. On a low powered craft it's not a big deal but if you're going for really tight control and high performance, you can't expect a loose joint to work out.
Use 2207 and use betaflight 4.3 with presets
Almost a year ago, I had the same thought:
"Wouldn't it be a lot more efficient and faster responding when the bottom motors of an X8 would be higher kV?"
So glad that an experienced and dedicated man like you had the same idea and is actually testing it. And even better, that our thoughts seemed to be right.
For the x mounting problem, you could cut a bit of the mounting end of the arm horizontally an have a similar shaped 2 or 3mm plate. Countersunk screws on both motors, then screw the parts together with 3 screws and pressnuts.
Maybe not the easiest mount to work with, but would be pretty compact and same shape as X4 layout
The next craft is close and very exciting
Very cool stuff. Got emu downloaded and flashed yesterday. Can’t wait to give it a go. Was also wondering if the sonicare performs ok on 2306? I have a few sets laying around, and don’t have the dough to buy the imperials, and the frame at this time.
Yeah 2306 is completely fine. I always advocate to use what you have first.
How do those concert flights work with air regulations? They're pretty tight over here when it comes to overflying uninvolved persons nevermind crowds (with there being no legal way to brief a whole concert into being 'involved') 🤔
It was a different world when I made this video sadly.
Great to see some new 7 inch development after your first venture into the 7 unch frame I super excited with this. Really hope you have this 7inch available I've missed every one since the orginal that was robbed from me. Good to see you posting 👌
I have quite an interesting concept I'm going to test in a couple months for 7"
interesting about using different motors kv on the top and bottom.
Hey Bob I’m binge listening to your channel while I’m at work welding, I’m planning on buying some motors as a treat to myself lol. But have you ever tried using the master slider only in betaflight? I just set mine to 1.3 and it makes a huge difference. Anyway no criticism from here. I don’t know enough to criticize lol just a thought
I actually attempt to use their simplified tuning across at least one full pack before giving up and moving to emu
@@Kabab I’m sure you know more than I do.. Either way these a long form educational Videos you post are a lifesaver during a long Night at work I personally appreciate them
@@lordhenrix1510 I may or may not know more but that doesn't really matter. My goal is to do as little work as possible in order to get things flying at 90% of Max capability. I cannot stress how little I strive to do in order to get the best performance per unit of time spent. This is one matter that betaflight seems to not care at all about. They expect you to spend hours tuning each thing you build to get something that actually works let alone flies good
Whats your fav setup for sub250g for lightweight cams like the caddx peanuts (other than 5")?
That's the tooth fairy 2 with your choice of motors. The 21mm is the lightest for 5" but I'd recommend the 5mm arms on the tooth fairy 2 with the 23mm tall motors
freakin awesome!!! watching with itnerest and peasure. what kv on 2306 can you advice for 4s x 8 7 inch?
Not sure right now.....I wouldn't recommend 4S for 7" in general however. It's just not enough voltage and the batteries will struggle to supply the amperage to manage a craft of that size unless it's a middle or low performance craft. If you're just hovering around, it's completely fine.
Would be amazing of you would just upload the audio to spotify etc. as a podcast.
Maybe even with optional video, like joe rogan does
I tried but it wasn't straightforward to do. RUclips is just easier unfortunately
21:45 "GNB kinda seems to drop a cell on packs that are about larger than 2000 milliamps, for some reason their cells above 2000 milliamps are problematic..."
Oh... last week I received two 9000mAh GNB packs, a 3S & 4S which I'll be wiring in series to get 7S to re-cell my ebike battery. I hope I don't have any problems with them!
Something I've noticed about the 7035 Gemfan biblades is they come really out of balance. Maybe I just got a bad batch, but on my light 7" build with 1870kv imperial motors on 4s, swapping those out for the triblade version reduced vibrations a ton. Might be worth looking into a different 7" biblade if they still have balance issues so you don't need as much frame mass to counter the vibrations.
It's not specifically that blade, it's twin blades in general. When you have a tri-blade, you just have a better counterbalance on the blade so even if it is out of balance, it's not noticed. Twin blades will almost always be somewhat out of balance and because we are so sensitive to vibrations in our video feed, we see everything. Thankfully, in this situation, having so many blades seems to improve things quite a bit and I'm seeing very little issues in that department
One needs balls of steel to be able to fly and shoot video in a concert like that!
Try the emax nanohawk x its basically a babytooth but bnf
I thought when you have motors of different kv the motors will default to the lowest of the kv? How can a motor spin faster then designed without burning up?
The FC doesn't manage motor rpm. It manages the response of the craft. So when I push the throttle up, the FC just says apply X% throttle to all motors. On the bottom, that X% just happens to be a higher RPM than the top. This only works in an octo because the top and bottom can operate 100% independent of each other. It cannot work on a Y6 setup or otherwise asymmetrical coaxial setup.
The top added piece thats added the additional oscillation you mentioned, is that due to the motors making the same power with same torsion but more forward because of its flat strength? Causing the props to not spin flat like the bottoms would?
Hard to describe but my best guess is that because the motors are somewhat around the same RPM a lot of the time, the rotations match up and in this case, because of the motor offset, the resulting oscillations are oblique and unpredictable. This is why the FC is having so much trouble. Oblique oscillations are the absolute worst to deal with.
@2:41 oh god, when I saw the streamers shooting all over the place !!
that's exactly what I said when I saw them. I couldn't believe he flew through that. He had a schedule for when things were going off too so he was aware...MASSIVE balls
He timed it with the streamers and fireworks so perfectly
cloned chinese frames in 1....2....3. really happy with kabab fpv reemerging
Sad. What can I do. 😞
Glad you keep experimenting with this. Very good information.
I am surprised how much difference having offset kv top and bottom make.
Gotta try it.
Want more speed? Get a RC helicopter, I don't understand why they're not more popular
I have always said this too. I'm still confused but my best guess is that a crash with a heli is way more expensive than a $25 motor and a prop.
Just watched at 1.5x speed. So fast 😅
really want ur 30mm and run 8 or 9" biblades on a lightweight drone
If I pull off what I'm thinking I can with the next build, going with an X8 25mm 8" or 9" is likely better than the 30mm which is a 3106.5
I see no logic in not having a bottom plate. What advantages do you perceive ?
Bottom plate? Where?
Stupid question: Why not use the same motors all around and use higher pitch props on the bottom?
I tried that with the last build. That would work too but it's more difficult to find suitable props that match. It's easier to use the same prop all around and different kv. I can also control the kv more finely than the prop. There isn't a wide variety of 7" props out there that are worh trying on any build either.
Hey Kabab, I'm building a 7" X8. (still waiting for the last parts) Do you think the lower motors can handle being the landing gear? Thanks :-)
Yesh it's fine to touch down on the bottom motors. Just don't smack the ground and disarm quickly just before you're gonna touch
@@Kabab Great Thanks! Parts arrived and currently I'm building. So excited!!!
Thanks a lot!!! :-)))))))))
Is there a conclusion in text? It's always hard to find the core stuff in videos.
yep, i'm coming back and workign on that now.
Are we gonna get a vid about all the new motors + setup recommendations?:)
Once I figure it all out. Yeah
Concert video was EPIC!
Can confirm over crowds and around the stage at a concert is 100% one of the most intense gigs. I've done flights with Rezz and Nghtmre.
Bad audio high pitch squeal coming through. Couldn't watch it.
your speakers or headphones are broken. This video has the best audio quality I've ever managed in any video over the past 7years.
I hear ya on being so busy I have a brand-new success set up with all of your parts on and it’s been built for two months now with being snowy in Michigan and busy at work I just haven’t been able to fly like I would want to but the days are getting longer and warmer. I’m glad to see some content back up as I always like seeing your views on our flying toys
Bro that crash at the beginning scared the shit out of me
I was thinking to myself there's probably some parking signs here before it happened. Of course....
Hey great video! Will you be coming to UNTOLD this year? :)
My gosh it's my dream to go to that festival. 2023 if I'm lucky I'll make it there.
@@Kabab it was really great! Too bad you missed it but maybe next year 😊
Try BF 4.3. I promise it will surprise you. Its absolutely amazing!
I did. This was with 4.3. It didn't surprise 😑
@@Kabab now that surprises me. Did you use one of the presets. The Sonicare was good on default then after I put the freestyle preset.... mind blown. I've flashed a few bad flying quads and it has worked wonders
Very interesting how despite having so many motors and props spinning it is getting similar flight times with the same batteries! I can recommend the CNHL 6S 70C lipo, I've had good luck with that one personally if you are looking for a 2200mah 6s. Also the Hobbyking Rhino 2200mah 6S 50C is not bad either.
CNHL packs are fine but tend to be larger and overweight for their performance. They're cheap but the loss in value is greater than the reduced price imo. GNB packs under 2000mah are very good. I'm going to try and get the 1900mah high C GNB 6S pack to work for this craft.
woh00 finally a video great !
Lol, Kabab comes of of a 3 month hiatus with a mixed kV coaxial hexa-quad. Do you think if we give him six months he’ll be working on nitro rocket quads?
Great analysis of your coaxial setup's handling! Instead of a Kv differential between the upper and lower sets of motors, have you tried running steeper pitched props on the lower set with similar Kv ratings? APC tends to be heavier but they've got a good selection of 5" and 7" bi-blade pitch options. 7x4 + 7x5 or 6 combos could be worth a try to help accelerate the initial thrust from the upper set instead of hitting rpm limits.
I tried different props but it's really hard to find a matching pair of props that would work well together. APC props tend to be rather inefficient for the task at hand. They're really good for speed but not so much for control and efficiency. Other props also are deceiving in their function. It's more difficult to find a matching pair rather than just upping the Kv. It's even more difficult to find a matching pair of twins and if you do find a matching set, you can't fine tune it. That being said, this may be the direction that we need to go if my theories about how the FC functions are incorrect.
Good info!!! Thanks.
This is very interesting! Thanks for the video it is helpful as I scope out adding 7" options to my working fleet.
what speed-ballpark are we roughly seeing here? (km) 9:32
not that fast. maybe about 95kmph
Lately every quad I've built has been about 25% larger motor volume than "recommended" for the AUW.
when will these new frames be available?
just with 4 motors.
This is still early stage testing. Hopefully the next iteration works as expected. If so, then I'll get a test frame batch. The same frame will work as a quad too.
My Sonicare vibrates at 62.000 Hz
😂
More, more, more! Love your videos!!!
Very impressed with this whole video. The frame is beautiful, the knowledge is insane and ability to make such a smooth and fast flight is astonishing. Well done sir.. You may have tempted me to make this 5" im looking to buid to become a 7" lol
@KababFPV come out Bob come out where EVER you are!
I'm coming.
Instagram photo has come to life! Really excited to see where this goes. I'll end up needing something like this for work, so you've already got yourself a buyer lol
Yessss! We were missing you and your exploring so much. Welcome back 💪
It sounds really good... excellent attention to detail here, thank you for your work. Very interesting and engaging, I am interested to follow this project and see how it turns out. Personally, I think you are onto something here.
Happy to have you back
Can’t tell you how much I appreciate your real world testing. Have to agree on BF defaults, thankfully the new presets tab is incredibly useful and I actually like 4.3. Having said that I find it easier to run Emuflight on some quads, so I do. Easier is better. I think some people choose to ignore that tuning software is more than its PID’s, there is more going on under the hood.
Dang that thing screams!
Great video!! I to am trying to make a living chasing cars on track. Finding a quad that can keep up while also getting above 3 min of flight time has proven difficult. I'm excited to see you findings! Currently flying a 9" with 2816 motors and a 7" with 2810 1500 kV motors. Really interested in the x8 setup!
This is exactly the situation I'm trying to resolve and I feel is the most obvious use for our FPV crafts.
@@Kabab Ya I feel the same way, I can't wait to see what you come up with!!
happy to see you came back
Nice build I like the push for innovation that's the whole idea of having a hobby aside from just flying good to see your making videos again looking forward to future videos again
With the Glide and Terraplane... Ive never had to tune on BF and 4.3 just makes setup easier. Ive never really used anything else though.
10:25 that pole though
Imagine an X8 in 3D
i hate beta flight
Ok, can we talk about this giraffe neck for the gopro? Why would you move cg so much from the ct?
Gotta get the props out of view. Don't have a choice unfortunately. It's less mechanically impactful to have a long neck than four longer arms AND still a long neck.
@@Kabab Oh, of course.. I got inspired by your video about Y6 and designed a similar frame myself, it's being made now. I'm not sure if it's going to have props in view, it wasn't my objective, but cg there is only few millimeters in front of the ct. Not sure i'm gonna be able to post any videos about it though
@@puckspirit2573 always fun to see how it turns out