nice video, and hand cutting threads like this reminds me of the Lorch and Boley watchmakers lathes (8mm lathes), but for precise threading of small screws this is the way, feels like an old singer sewing machine, with the hand_crank, but all good.
Oiling the geartrain is really important. This method also allows for cutting threads on larger diameters, that may otherwise bog down the cutting tool.
Does the compound have the hole pre-drilled for mounting the tool post? Mine is an older unit and does not already have one drilled and tapped. (I can simply add it)
@sazquach We added the fifth, 10-32 hole to the middle of the compound slide so our customers could use the quick change tool post on top of it. In 2017, we modified the design of the compound slide to accommodate our Quick-Change Tool Post. We have revised our instructions that now include a dimensional diagram of where to drill and tap the 10-32 hole. Following are links to our Compound Slide instructions and tip from one of our customers who did this on their own. The location of the hole is not extremely critical. Instructions: sherline.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/1270inst.pdf Tip #92: sherline.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/tip_092.pdf
I know its late so maybe my eyes are deceiving me, but that chuck/ part seems to have good bit of runout going on. Now granted that part was for demonstrating The set-up & I get that. Just was curious how true the chucks on these bench-tops run.
Would it really cost that much if a quick change gear box was made instead of the attachment? Setting gears up like this was done prior to 1940. After that, practically all lathes came standard with this box and it was a great improvement akin to disc brakes on cars. You would think that, by now, setting up gears manually would be obsolete in this age of CNC technology. Imagine if car-makers decided to go back to drum brakes. It would never happen. By comparison, the Unimat and Hardinge had a thread chasing mechanism that could be set up far more easily and quickly. They also cuts threads very accurately, with greater user-friendly control and without a threading dial and powered by the motor.
90W motor is dicey with gears. I think it was a HP problem I agree.. I have all the gears and stuff. My life is too short to mess with manual threading. PITA
I have to concur with robertsnare, it was probably mostly a power issue: particularly at very low RPM, the little high-revving motor just doesn't produce the torque needed to drive all those gears and cut at the same time. However, it seems to me that a quick-change gear box was not in the works in any case: if it were, they'd have given us power feeds to begin with. As far as it being a PITA, I agree, particularly since this threader does not include gears for the more unusual pitches (you know, the one's you can't just buy a die for).
I wish I could be that cavalier about removing and replacing my head stock. I bought the 4400 used, but with little use. The head stock alignment key was missing; I put two shorter lengths of key in. They are the correct size, but there is still movement. Anytime I even loosen the set screw, I have to mess around, realigning the head stock, or I get tapers, I DON't want. Does everyone deal with this? Will it help to custom fit some keystock? The reason I opened this vid is I am thinking I need to get a compound cross slide, then fit and align the head stock, and not remove it, unless forced. Any tips? Thanks...
You should get a new headstock key. The P/N is 40260. Here's the link so you can order the replacement part. www.sherline.com/product/precision-grd-head-key/ The keyway in both the headstock and the bed are cut to .1875 - .188". The headstock key is ground to .1872 - .1874 for a snug fit. With the headstock key in place, your headstock should be square to the bed.
it uses a metric key.. which fits TIGHTLY.. you are one size small. I bought bar stock.. 13/16 or something. Your key is not the right size.. get the right size? SHERLINE keys are ground. I bought stuff from EBAY guy.. common parts.. go one size fatter. :)
@Sherline I'll have to add that to my shopping list. Gotta save up for a Sherline order, so much is so inexpensive, you can pay 10x as much for shipping as the part! But, that's a good problem.
wait a minute. why the compound slide has holes on top? is that new version? this is a good idea and will help a lot when making thread. i work mostly with stainless steel 314 (sometimes brass) and only use hss cutting tool because they're cheaper and easy to sharpen. the only downside is i have to sharpen them all the time.
Yes, we added the fifth, 10-32 hole to the middle of the compound slide so our customers could use the quick change tool post on top of it. Here's a link to the instructions that show you how to modify your compound slide made before 2017. sherline.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/1270inst.pdf (see page 2).
Sherlines are so well fitted parts seem Tight. do to precision maching. Like my original 3 jaw needed cleaning. Dis assemblig the chuck.. every part was tight. I checked with factory to get proper lube... tight is precision. I read about cheapo 3 jaw chucks.. wood lathes? flying apart at high speeds. I have not found any runout in any my stuff. maybe samples used many times.. TRUST SHERLINE.. :)
I am slow....why are changing gears here? can't they just slide to accommodate the height difference? If we are cutting the same thread, the ratio should be the same, no?
Nice!! Thank you.
Thank you very much, your videos are fantastic and very welcome.
nice video, and hand cutting threads like this reminds me of the Lorch and Boley watchmakers lathes (8mm lathes), but for precise threading of small screws this is the way, feels like an old singer sewing machine, with the hand_crank, but all good.
Oiling the geartrain is really important. This method also allows for cutting threads on larger diameters, that may otherwise bog down the cutting tool.
Good presentation
Does the compound have the hole pre-drilled for mounting the tool post? Mine is an older unit and does not already have one drilled and tapped. (I can simply add it)
@sazquach
We added the fifth, 10-32 hole to the middle of the compound slide so our customers could use the quick change tool post on top of it.
In 2017, we modified the design of the compound slide to accommodate our Quick-Change Tool Post. We have revised our instructions that now include a dimensional diagram of where to drill and tap the 10-32 hole. Following are links to our Compound Slide instructions and tip from one of our customers who did this on their own. The location of the hole is not extremely critical.
Instructions: sherline.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/1270inst.pdf
Tip #92: sherline.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/tip_092.pdf
I know its late so maybe my eyes are deceiving me, but that chuck/ part seems to have good bit of runout going on.
Now granted that part was for demonstrating
The set-up & I get that.
Just was curious how true the chucks on these bench-tops run.
Would it really cost that much if a quick change gear box was made instead of the attachment? Setting gears up like this was done prior to 1940. After that, practically all lathes came standard with this box and it was a great improvement akin to disc brakes on cars. You would think that, by now, setting up gears manually would be obsolete in this age of CNC technology. Imagine if car-makers decided to go back to drum brakes. It would never happen. By comparison, the Unimat and Hardinge had a thread chasing mechanism that could be set up far more easily and quickly. They also cuts threads very accurately, with greater user-friendly control and without a threading dial and powered by the motor.
90W motor is dicey with gears. I think it was a HP problem I agree.. I have all the gears and stuff. My life is too short to mess with manual threading. PITA
I have to concur with robertsnare, it was probably mostly a power issue: particularly at very low RPM, the little high-revving motor just doesn't produce the torque needed to drive all those gears and cut at the same time. However, it seems to me that a quick-change gear box was not in the works in any case: if it were, they'd have given us power feeds to begin with. As far as it being a PITA, I agree, particularly since this threader does not include gears for the more unusual pitches (you know, the one's you can't just buy a die for).
I wish I could be that cavalier about removing and replacing my head stock. I bought the 4400 used, but with little use. The head stock alignment key was missing; I put two shorter lengths of key in. They are the correct size, but there is still movement. Anytime I even loosen the set screw, I have to mess around, realigning the head stock, or I get tapers, I DON't want.
Does everyone deal with this? Will it help to custom fit some keystock?
The reason I opened this vid is I am thinking I need to get a compound cross slide, then fit and align the head stock, and not remove it, unless forced.
Any tips? Thanks...
You should get a new headstock key. The P/N is 40260. Here's the link so you can order the replacement part. www.sherline.com/product/precision-grd-head-key/
The keyway in both the headstock and the bed are cut to .1875 - .188". The headstock key is ground to .1872 - .1874 for a snug fit. With the headstock key in place, your headstock should be square to the bed.
it uses a metric key.. which fits TIGHTLY.. you are one size small. I bought bar stock.. 13/16 or something. Your key is not the right size.. get the right size? SHERLINE keys are ground. I bought stuff from EBAY guy.. common parts.. go one size fatter. :)
@Sherline
I'll have to add that to my shopping list. Gotta save up for a Sherline order, so much is so inexpensive, you can pay 10x as much for shipping as the part!
But, that's a good problem.
wait a minute. why the compound slide has holes on top? is that new version? this is a good idea and will help a lot when making thread. i work mostly with stainless steel 314 (sometimes brass) and only use hss cutting tool because they're cheaper and easy to sharpen. the only downside is i have to sharpen them all the time.
Yes, we added the fifth, 10-32 hole to the middle of the compound slide so our customers could use the quick change tool post on top of it. Here's a link to the instructions that show you how to modify your compound slide made before 2017.
sherline.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/1270inst.pdf (see page 2).
Sherlines are so well fitted parts seem Tight. do to precision maching. Like my original 3 jaw needed cleaning. Dis assemblig the chuck.. every part was tight. I checked with factory to get proper lube... tight is precision. I read about cheapo 3 jaw chucks.. wood lathes? flying apart at high speeds. I have not found any runout in any my stuff. maybe samples used many times.. TRUST SHERLINE.. :)
I am slow....why are changing gears here? can't they just slide to accommodate the height difference? If we are cutting the same thread, the ratio should be the same, no?
When using the risers, an extra gear is added to account for the height difference. You cannot “just slide gears to account for the difference.”