2:54 This is just wrong to show. It's unnecessarily unsafe to bring the brake hand up that much above the belay device. With an angle between the two sides of the rope that small, the brake support of the belay device is almost nonexistent (stop at 2:56). You want to pull the rope through the belay device with the brake hand in a rather FORWARD than upward motion. While that might require a little more effort, it's MUCH safer, especially if you're not using assisted belaying devices.
Belay person NEVER should take their eyes/attention off climber. He does this several times. Also, as stated... you do not come anywhere close to the device which will pinch off part of your hand. LOL Otherwise a good video for basics. We say "dirt me" for descending here in Iowa.
I think the PBUS method probably needs an actual safety evaluation. Watch what happens at ~2:31ish. The guy is in the middle of a bottom reach, watch his sightline. Simple and economical movements are the safest, and thats why I think the tunnel method is taught elsewhere in the world. Multiple other commenters are hinting around the same thing... PBUS just isn't the best way, and it'll almost be impossible to get it right while keeping your eyes fixed on the climber.
Superior Man if the climber were to fall it would slightly pull the rope into the carabiner (thus why you should not have your brake hand too close to the carabiner because it'll get sucked in) and if the rope is under your feet it could pull you as well and you'll lose grip on your climber and a bad fall will happen.
@@nicholasgault972 yeah u would damage the rope by pushing sand or small pebbbles into the rope. Adding to the wear on the rope, lowering it's lifespan.
I’ve been watching a lot of climbing fail videos and the comments section said that there were so many bad belayers so I came here to see what that means and now I’m thinking to myself how can someone be so bad at belaying I mean your friend is trusting you with their life potentially and I just feel like people who are bad at belaying should take that more seriously and pay better attention you don’t want your friend or anyone to get hurt
A good video. Although I think you should keep both hands on the brake side of the rope. It's easier to catch a fall with two hands and also it gives you redundancy. If you use only one hand and you lose your grip for some reason your climber is in trouble. Also I don't see the point in holding the climber's side of the rope unless you're pulling out slack.
@@Tuulos I'm currently doing the lead class and they are teaching us to have one hand for the brake side and the other and is on the other side. They said when left hand is pulling up and right hand pulling down, it becomes a locking position even when there is slack. But I find redundancy for the braking side to make sense. I'lll ask when I go for the next class.
I did the class with an ATC... and if we were not feeding or taking, we had to be in a locking position (using both hands, left pulling up on the left side and right pulling down on the brake side)
In lead belaying it actually feels better to me to have one hand on the climbers side of the rope and the other on the brake side, as the "home position". And when you see that climber might be about to fall you position both hands on the brake side, ready to catch the fall. But in top rope belaying my "home position" is both hands on the brake side. Also I like to use auto-locking belay device when lead belaying for extra safety, in case climber falls unexpectedly.
Help me out, I've been climbing an belaying for 15 years. I've always had my break hand closest to me, this method reverses that with the break hand out in front. I'm told the method I've been using is just awkward for some, maybe most, people, but its not awkward to me and I've been told its perfectly safe. Is there any reason I should change what has worked for so long? Thanks
How to put the hook initially at the top of the cliff. Is it by putting different hooks at small intervals and reaching the top and put one hook at the top? Or are there stairs backside? 😅
His instinct to grab the rope tightly with his top hands is potentially dangerous habit. Instead, try holding the rope gently (but with control) using maybe less than 5 fingers, to help the brake hand, which is doing most of the work always. That's just my observation, I wonder if you agree. Oh and never step on the rope (be aware)...
For a moment, yes. It relieves the tension from the device so you can pull the rope through it easily. However, it should take a very short time, around 1 second at max from lifting your brake hand to it being in a locking position at your side, and you should bring your brake hand down and to your side until the brake rope is tight again.
You can fly up from the ground and it might make your release the brake-rope and make the climber fall all the way down. You should generally not belay people that are significantly heavier than you, and if you do, you should use a tool like a ohm-device.
You can clip a weighted bag (filled with sand or some other medium) to your harness straps. At gyms they have sand bags that have a rope long enough to stay on the ground even when clipped. If the climber starts dropping and you go up, you’ll only go up as much as the rope attached to the weighted bag allows. Once the climber is able to grasp the wall again, you can add slack to the line or have them climb up so that you can lower yourself.
I think you shouldnt use the under slide hand technique as brake side of rope should be kept tight during slide... guide hand should stay above the brake hand.
wrong, if you don't use your guide hand on the brake rope every time you pull through slack and slide your brake hand back up to the atc you will be letting go of the brake rope
Technically it dosent matter if the rope is tight during the slide, its maybe 4inches of slack that get tight in less than a second during a fall, as long as theee is 1 static hand on the break rope its all good, and yes, im qualified before you all flip out haha
@@profd65 dude what is your problem? I've seen you respond in this fashion on two comments now and there's no need. Just ask the person to say why they believe one way or another
The person above is correct, it is Little Si in North Bend Wa.....And it brings back a lot of memories for me as I learned to climb there over 30 years ago.....
Marcos Ponce lead climbing means you clip your rope as you go. If you are top roping, the top is already there an attached to the top. This is uncommon outdoors but very common indoors
on a pitch that can be hiked up (say by a side or back route) your team places an anchor and rope on top/from the top before beginning climbing from the base of the pitch. In the case of this video either that was done or a lead climber ascended first and placed protection up the face, then descended, before the video was shot.
yooooooooo this looks sketchy. idk if my friends could belay they would get easily distracted by something lol. Maybe we should just stick with bouldering.
My friend looked at me slightly strangely when I said "Gotcha Pat" but other than that, good video.
😂😂
Gotcha Pat
I’ve been looking for a new partner called “Pat” for months. Climbing is hard.
🤣🤣🤣
My climbing partners name is Pat so it works out for me. Lol
Instead of "Climbing" my friends and I have started using the much better "Dude on rock?" to which the proper response is "Rock on, dude"
I've only belayed someone about 8 or 9 times. But I still get scared when I'm belaying someone. It's so much responsibility!
You’re in a better spot than the complacent ones!
I'd let you belay me, you have the right attitude.
I would let both of you cats belay me I get good vibes
@@Powerbandm I would let my real cats belay me, they seem trustworthy.
@@elliottparcells9484 LOL
"Tension Alex!" "Gotcha Pat!" So that's the technical terms.. got it, I'll make use of it
My friends and I yell, "Gotcha, Pat!" Whenever we belay each other.
None of our names are Pat.
We were thinking of doing the SAME THING!
That's funny. What's funnier still is that you're learning belaying from a fucking video. SMH.
Tension Alex
@@profd65 some people, like myself, just use the video as a refresher if it been a while since they've last climbed/belayed
@@profd65 what’s wrong with educating yourself?
Excellent video!! Thank you! I took a class, & this is a perfect refresher.
Never have i belayed anyone who actually says "falling" as opposed to "warghhhh".
surprisingly well produced video! and informative
Just wanted to check and refresh my belaying. Fantastic well struktured Video. Love it.
This is the best video on the topic. Very slick.
2:54 This is just wrong to show. It's unnecessarily unsafe to bring the brake hand up that much above the belay device. With an angle between the two sides of the rope that small, the brake support of the belay device is almost nonexistent (stop at 2:56). You want to pull the rope through the belay device with the brake hand in a rather FORWARD than upward motion. While that might require a little more effort, it's MUCH safer, especially if you're not using assisted belaying devices.
FatAlbert1882 thanks for the advice.
Thanks a bunch
Belay person NEVER should take their eyes/attention off climber. He does this several times. Also, as stated... you do not come anywhere close to the device which will pinch off part of your hand. LOL Otherwise a good video for basics. We say "dirt me" for descending here in Iowa.
Thank you for this post. As a new climber what you say makes sense and might result in catastrophe avoidance for me or someone else.
I think the PBUS method probably needs an actual safety evaluation. Watch what happens at ~2:31ish. The guy is in the middle of a bottom reach, watch his sightline. Simple and economical movements are the safest, and thats why I think the tunnel method is taught elsewhere in the world. Multiple other commenters are hinting around the same thing... PBUS just isn't the best way, and it'll almost be impossible to get it right while keeping your eyes fixed on the climber.
Alternatively, "dude on rock." "Rock on, dude."
4:15 he stepped on the rope! that's a real nono!!!
Why? Just curious
Superior Man if the climber were to fall it would slightly pull the rope into the carabiner (thus why you should not have your brake hand too close to the carabiner because it'll get sucked in) and if the rope is under your feet it could pull you as well and you'll lose grip on your climber and a bad fall will happen.
Also you might damage the rope?
@@nicholasgault972 yeah u would damage the rope by pushing sand or small pebbbles into the rope. Adding to the wear on the rope, lowering it's lifespan.
@@nicholasgault972 funny
I’ve been watching a lot of climbing fail videos and the comments section said that there were so many bad belayers so I came here to see what that means and now I’m thinking to myself how can someone be so bad at belaying I mean your friend is trusting you with their life potentially and I just feel like people who are bad at belaying should take that more seriously and pay better attention you don’t want your friend or anyone to get hurt
Looks like this was filmed in the North Bend / Snoqualmie area
I called my girlfriend Pat and now I'm single D:
Remember when calling for tension always say “tension Pat” !!
This is awesome, thanks!
Uh, how did the rope get way over their heads and back down before they climbed? Wizardry? Thanks, REI
This is toprope climbing, where the rope is as you can imagine, already at the top... they mention this at 0:45 ...
at 4:15 the belayer steps on the rope. twice :D
Doesn't really matter
Messiahs why do you think that?
If you really don't think that matters please reconsider before climbing - You are risking your life and the lives of anyone else you take.
I have always been told that every time someone steps on a climbing rope a climber's angel dies. Is this true?
Have you ever top roped before? He stepped on the end on the ground, that is not going to interfere with anything
A good video. Although I think you should keep both hands on the brake side of the rope. It's easier to catch a fall with two hands and also it gives you redundancy. If you use only one hand and you lose your grip for some reason your climber is in trouble. Also I don't see the point in holding the climber's side of the rope unless you're pulling out slack.
I was taught the same way.
@@Tuulos I'm currently doing the lead class and they are teaching us to have one hand for the brake side and the other and is on the other side. They said when left hand is pulling up and right hand pulling down, it becomes a locking position even when there is slack. But I find redundancy for the braking side to make sense. I'lll ask when I go for the next class.
@@bleu4917200 Did you end up asking?
I did the class with an ATC... and if we were not feeding or taking, we had to be in a locking position (using both hands, left pulling up on the left side and right pulling down on the brake side)
In lead belaying it actually feels better to me to have one hand on the climbers side of the rope and the other on the brake side, as the "home position". And when you see that climber might be about to fall you position both hands on the brake side, ready to catch the fall. But in top rope belaying my "home position" is both hands on the brake side. Also I like to use auto-locking belay device when lead belaying for extra safety, in case climber falls unexpectedly.
A very Kyle Mooney-esque “lowering”.
3:44 if I call „falling“ I would NEVER want my partner to bring his brake hand above the tuber!!! This is soooo wrong and could end deadly
Help me out, I've been climbing an belaying for 15 years. I've always had my break hand closest to me, this method reverses that with the break hand out in front. I'm told the method I've been using is just awkward for some, maybe most, people, but its not awkward to me and I've been told its perfectly safe. Is there any reason I should change what has worked for so long? Thanks
How to put the hook initially at the top of the cliff. Is it by putting different hooks at small intervals and reaching the top and put one hook at the top? Or are there stairs backside? 😅
I usually just jump
Someone usually has to lead climb to get it there
Cheers Mate!
thanks amazing
Turn on subtitles, please!
His instinct to grab the rope tightly with his top hands is potentially dangerous habit. Instead, try holding the rope gently (but with control) using maybe less than 5 fingers, to help the brake hand, which is doing most of the work always. That's just my observation, I wonder if you agree. Oh and never step on the rope (be aware)...
doing this tomorrow for the first time in my life. never ever did it before.
How'd it go?
@@nickbrannon3251 no response... didn't go well
@@nickbrannon3251 he died
he passed
Rest in peace
I said "gotcha, Pat!" and no one understood what I was saying.
Should your break hand be above your belay device when pulling rope through the device? This seems wrong to me
For a moment, yes. It relieves the tension from the device so you can pull the rope through it easily. However, it should take a very short time, around 1 second at max from lifting your brake hand to it being in a locking position at your side, and you should bring your brake hand down and to your side until the brake rope is tight again.
So can I not do the v 123 method like in the UK? Or is that not common in the US?
V to the knee 123 haha it's works just fine.
emeejingg brayy
I’ve never heard someone say “tension.” Say “take” instead
What happens when the climber is significantly heavier than you
You can fly up from the ground and it might make your release the brake-rope and make the climber fall all the way down. You should generally not belay people that are significantly heavier than you, and if you do, you should use a tool like a ohm-device.
You can clip a weighted bag (filled with sand or some other medium) to your harness straps. At gyms they have sand bags that have a rope long enough to stay on the ground even when clipped.
If the climber starts dropping and you go up, you’ll only go up as much as the rope attached to the weighted bag allows.
Once the climber is able to grasp the wall again, you can add slack to the line or have them climb up so that you can lower yourself.
where was this filmed
Washington State, obviously.
Snoqualmie
I think you shouldnt use the under slide hand technique as brake side of rope should be kept tight during slide... guide hand should stay above the brake hand.
And what are your credentials, shit for brains? Three months of going to a climbing gym in Alabama, the home of mountaineering?
wrong, if you don't use your guide hand on the brake rope every time you pull through slack and slide your brake hand back up to the atc you will be letting go of the brake rope
Technically it dosent matter if the rope is tight during the slide, its maybe 4inches of slack that get tight in less than a second during a fall, as long as theee is 1 static hand on the break rope its all good, and yes, im qualified before you all flip out haha
@@profd65 dude what is your problem? I've seen you respond in this fashion on two comments now and there's no need. Just ask the person to say why they believe one way or another
🔥🔥🔥 🇮🇳
Am I the only person that gets mad at 1:59?
Why?
Yeah I'm with you. The knot looks like crap. Twisted figure of 8 and a half assed stopper knot.
A.W. R-C thank you!!! I’m not the only one 😂
That's not even a figure 8 for god's sake!
Undressed figure eight knots dont effect anything. Still way stronger then you need.
GOTCHA PAT
Where is this Crag?
The person above is correct, it is Little Si in North Bend Wa.....And it brings back a lot of memories for me as I learned to climb there over 30 years ago.....
"No not the top rope! Anything but the top rope! Please I c- I can't take it!"
ballet on
They say belay wrong, its be-lay not blay right?
As far as I know
Its pronounced buh-lay
Who cares
In the US, its more comment to accent the second syllable in this case.
Creme Belay?
For hispanics is on belay then andele'.
I belayed once...
How to run the rope through carabiner at the top of the rock???
It’s lead climbing
Team Recon I don’t know what that means
Marcos Ponce lead climbing means you clip your rope as you go. If you are top roping, the top is already there an attached to the top. This is uncommon outdoors but very common indoors
on a pitch that can be hiked up (say by a side or back route) your team places an anchor and rope on top/from the top before beginning climbing from the base of the pitch. In the case of this video either that was done or a lead climber ascended first and placed protection up the face, then descended, before the video was shot.
yooooooooo this looks sketchy. idk if my friends could belay they would get easily distracted by something lol. Maybe we should just stick with bouldering.
loooool im thinking the exact same thing!!
Pause at 2:53
That flollowthrough knot looks hella sloppy!
lmao notice that too
0:27 switching brake hands?? C'mon...
i feel like this device gives a better understanding of what you are doing than a grigri i dont trust that thing lol
That tie in at 2:00 needs to be dressed if you are going make a video
Dino-saur
I hate: On belay? Belay on. It makes them look even dorkier, what's next zip lining?
N or
The proper way to hold the rope is so you NEVER have only 1 hand on the rope
off belay, belay off
Rope climbing isn’t great, in my opinion. Bouldering is where it’s at
Rope climbing = 1 rope, few carabiners and a harness Bouldering = 400 bucks for bouldering mats
Alex Barčovský who says you have to use a bouldering mat ?
Alex Barčovský even if you were to purchase one, a second hand bouldering mat is only £150 or $185.
Injuries are more common to bouldering than roped climbing.
@@DansEarway which doesn’t affect my appeal to it rather than rope climbing, which I’m sure others will agree on.
I think it's best to avoid needlessly putting yourself in a life and death situation. Y'all do what you want though.
I’m sorry but “pinch off a BITE” what the fuq?