Good clean work, as always. I'm not sure what you did different but you've really stepped up the production value in this one; love it! My only nitpick is that I'm pretty sure I counted 61 teeth. ;)
Thanks Tony! It might be that I use the Dslr with the 50mm lens more and more for filming? And I actually care a bit more about light in the recent time... Ps: Nitpicker!
I know this is nit-picking, but your small shaft is actually a mandrel, not an arbor. An arbor holds a tool, a mandrel holds a workpiece. A single shaft can be either one, depending on how it is used. Love your work, Stefan!
I absolutely love the way you explain things. You have a way of making tasks seem much more simplistic than they really are. And your camera work and editing of your videos are also top-notch. Keep up the great work!
I stumbled upon your channel a short while ago. I'm thoroughly enjoying viewing (and re-viewing) your videos. As a new hobbyist, I don't have some of the equipment you have, or the quality of equipment, but I'm still learning a lot along the way. I particularly appreciate the set-up tips and tricks you use. I find that to be one of the shortcomings of machine shop classes I've attended in the past. You learn what all the knobs and buttons do, but not much about techniques to set up/fixture parts to do the machining. Thanks Stefan.
hey brother, the effort you put into multiple cameras and shots makes a huge difference in the viewing experience. i love the way you explain things and your one of my top 3 favorite machining channels.. keep up the great work
Very nice project, some great info here. Thank you! I recently made two T2.5 pulleys for the use with a rotary encoder to upgrade my lathe to an electronic lead screw. Since there are essentially no forces involved I ended up 3D printing them. Worked out OK after ‘fixing’ the center bores which were off by like 0.5mm…
I really enjoy your videos. I am a beginner hobbyist with old iron machines. Your instruction throughout the video is simple and concise. Keep up the great videos.
Stefan, thank you for your detailed explanation that you make in your movies, real German thoroughness, and il love it! and don't forget that i am a Dutchman.
Excellent video! for me the easy way to internal/external broaching is the hemingway kits style leaver and am thinking of making a spindle lock and stepper motor indexing ,but im sure if I looked I could find a project shaper them bits you make are awesome another great job
What I notice is the quiet running of your machines, makes it very relaxing to watch. Good video and I always learn something. Thank you for sharing..:):)
Thank you! :) They are not super quiet, but I reduce their volume down to 20% when I edit the video to prevent the ears of my viewers from getting blown out ;)
Hi. I recently had to make a similar toothed belt drive but in my case the driven gear was a lot larger than the driving gear. Also it was a short belt with the gears close together. I realised that I didn't need to cut teeth on my driven gear so I didn't need to size it exactly either. I just made it as large as possible (plain pulley wheel). It works great and the belt doesn't slip. I reckon it's better than if I had cut the teeth and also the belt will last longer. Worth considering in some applications.
Good thing the other timing cog has fences so the belt won't want to wonder off. It looked like you had some radius on your form tool to me. Looking forward to the related build. Round pin in a square hole the need for steel center?
I just got done doing this very same thing but it was a repair on a back gear they lost 2 teeth in a row. I actually did it twice I filled one with brazing rod and cut teeth then on my other spirits embley I carved out a notch and put a tiny block of cast iron in it and cut the teeth with a fly cutter. Worked amazingly well I was very surprised. Of course all I did was shape the cutter so it fit by eye. Those back gears are more forgiving they're kind of a loose sloppy fit anyway. The brass ones working like a champ so I have a backup. I found an amazing way to sections cast iron I take my brazing rod brass rod heated up and pounded into a foil a heavy foil I should say cut it out and press it into the slot with the cast iron replacement piece of course you have to clean it very well and sprinkle a little bit of flux in it I just use borax. Works good
Adopting the Taper Lock system for gears and pulleys provides a simpler off-the-shelf solution for custom this-to-that adaptations between random forms to random shafts.
Great work, thnx for sharing! How can you fix side plates on teeths? Did you have any video showing the press operation? Another thing is related with 8m gt profile, do you know where can i find it?
lovely, high quality work and video :-D I use a lot of fly cutters like this, generally cutting brass clock gears, usually run them at 4000 rpm, I've not worked with aluminium much, is the slower speed recommended??
Standard German manufacturing procedure. That typical cleaning of surfaces with the hand. The German machinist has a extraordinary sense of feeling to detect microscopic particles and irregularities going over metal surfaces. It is a old craft. You can manufacture metal marvels with conventional non numeric controlled machines. Trust me on that.
So I can use this technique on any gear?I don't have gear cutters,but it looks like the fly cutter technique would work on common gears,up to a practical size?Thank's Norm
As usual, an excellent video, I have noted before, your rotary table looks very versatile especially when used with the indexing discs, is that a Vertex rotary table???? what model is it plz, and lastly did the chuck as used on yr rotary table come with the backplate that looks handy for adjusting it, many thanks and keep the videos coming we luv em
thanks Stefan for another shaper vid on keyway cutting. I own a Dutch made toolroom shaper from AI in German the abbreviation means something like Artillerie Einrichtung. it has the same dimensions as your Gack shaper. I have already made a toolholder based on your example for cutting internal keyways. I am however still struggling with grinding the cutter. Mine are cutting the keyways and with quit a good finish but also the process sounds a bit more violent then in your video ;-). maybe the cutter is too wide or maybe my cuts are to large........
Is the “future video” completed that shows the use of this gear? Please add the URL to the description of this video when it’s available. Thanks for your good camera & lighting work. The resulting video is a pleasure to watch.
You know, i've noticed that when you radius those teeth, the belts slip more. I've only made 20 such gears myself, so nothing is set in stone, but out of them the first ones were made with the prescribed method and they always slip when run time gets the belts worked a bit, or when they sit around a lot.
Thumbs up for your intresting videos! A have a question about a 127toot modul 1.75 gear. Its 20mm thick and abaut 225mm in diameter. I made it from regular steel from a scrap cut out piece from a cnc gastorch. When i tested it in my lathe i heard a ringing sound exactly the same frequens as if i tap it with something. Very anoying sound. The gear have a great profile. So there is nothing wrong there thats causing the sound. The original gear are made of cast iron and have four spokes. I think the diffrence lays there. Never expected that. Do you have any idea how to fix this problem?
You can also get most all of those dimensions off the reference section of SPI-SI.com. Last summer I made a MXL timing pulley the same way you did only now I wish I would have made the steel hub like yours.
Excellent video content, image quality, pacing, and editing. Amazing command of American English machinst idom. After watching your videos my shop always looks woefully unorganized and dirty.
Great job as always. Why do I get this feeling that Deutsch technical reference books are significantly more detailed than those found in other places of the world.
I don't believe you mentioned it in this video but I recall in another video you demonstrated how you center the cutter for cutting a keyway in the shaper. The process I recall seeing was simply dragging the cutter in and out of the bore until it scored a very light line and eyeballing it center. While I'm sure this is fine for 90% of jobs, there must be some jobs where this isn't good enough. For those jobs how would you do it?
I have a sneaking suspicion (sp) that the application involves a power feed possibly for the quill on your mill. if you or any body watching has a set of keyway broaches you could cut the four slots by milling a keyway in the broach guide bushing 90 degrees from the guide slot. As always more than one way to skin the cat
Excellent project as always! Question: Any suggestions on how to cut a keyway in a small bore without a shaper? I've seen variations on using the lathe carriage to hold a cutting tool with the part held in the lathe chuck. Is there a way the slot(s) could be cut on a vertical milling machine? Sure I could plunge down with small enough endmills but I'd love to hear your thoughts. Thanks!
In a pinch, for a one of, I would file it... Or use the lathe as a shaper - Running the carriage back and forth, having something like a shapertool at centerheight in the toolpost.
Thanks for the feedback. If I may borrow one of your sayings "My personal OCD :-)" won't allow me to use a file for the keyways. It's a 6 position spline shaft that's about 45mm deep. I guess the safest route without spending a ton of cash is exactly as you suggest on the lathe. Thanks again for the excellent videos. I learn't a lot from just this video as I do from all of them.
Stefan your editing is getting better and better. I really like the fading edits your adding in this last video. Very well done. What software are you running for your video editing if I may ask? Dave
Stefan, You seem to use loctite to permanently hold round things together such as sleeves and shafts. I understand that in low torque applications that this method is a quick way. But with this timing gear, you have 4 "keyways" which I would consider a setup for higher torque drives. Wouldn't a "Dutch Key" be preferred (2 opposing set screws threaded axially on split line)? I just don't have much experience and therefore confidence in the loctite adhesive method to permanently bond. I have seen where heat is used to remove the parts with loctite bonds.
If you use Loctite meant for glueing cylindrical parts and the parts are a sliding fit, you can pretty much assume they behave like a solid workpiece, granted that both parts were clean and you have 100 % coverage of the areas touching. I remember when someone with a bit of Loctite on their hands put a Morse taper 4 tool in the lathes tailstock and it had to be disassembled and brought to the hydraulic press, where it took roughly 40 tons to get the parts separated. In the case Stefan here had, where he had steel hub and aluminum ring, a shrink fit would have been a very easy to do due to the different metals. Rule of thumb would be 0.001 mm per mm of size difference, so with a 20 mm hub your hole would be 19.98 or even 19.95 as the ring is aluminum and expands way more than steel. Shrink fits usually are disassembled by torching in half or just turning it to chips, pretty much permanent.
Je neuer die Auflage des Buches desto weniger sind diese Bereiche erläutert -.- sei froh, dass du noch ein älteres hast, nebenbei kann ich dir die Zerspaner-version des Tabellenbuches nur ans Herz legen, falls du die nicht schon bereits besitzt. Und ansonsten gute Arbeit, bin gespannt auf die nächsten Videos.
Stefan, I always enjoy your videos. Q: what downwards angle is the slotting tool bar set at on your shaper? i want to make a similar mount and tool for my douglas shaper. Nice work and i look forward to your next video 😎
I think thats about 5 degrees - The previous owner of the shaper made that holder, but I would not build it with the angle. I prefer to grind the relief angle into my tools.
Stefan Gotteswinter Really? I thought it would help with tool deflection. i would think that the extra effort including the angle was for more than cutter relief... hmm
Not sure about cutter deflection, but I get often in clearance issues with the tool in small bores. You can see that I had to file down quite a bit of material from the top of the tool to get clearance.
It is! www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Trades-Handbook-Ulrich-Fischer/dp/3808519142/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481594020&sr=8-1&keywords=Mechanical+and+Metal+Trades+Handbook
+Stefan Gotteswinter I have a decent handle on most things metric except for splines. I have yet to figure them out. Plus the German/European metals system. To used to SAE
0.200mm runout is ok for your chuck alignment? For shame Stefan - you are better than that. It you didn't have a shaper (only a German has a shaper in their basement) how would you cut the key Ways? Also when you mention a specific kind of material, I would appreciate one sentence about it. You used 75?? Aluminum which I've never herd of, so what are its characteristics? A short video sometime on material selection and characteristics would be much appreciated. Thanks for a great video. Is that machinist book available in English, with large type?
The dial indicator he's using has graduations (marks) every 0.01mm. When he says "two hundredths of a millimetre" it'll be two of the marks, or 0.02mm indicated runout. He's using 7075 aluminium alloy which is pretty common so you can google it if you want more information.
Good clean work, as always. I'm not sure what you did different but you've really stepped up the production value in this one; love it! My only nitpick is that I'm pretty sure I counted 61 teeth. ;)
Thanks Tony!
It might be that I use the Dslr with the 50mm lens more and more for filming? And I actually care a bit more about light in the recent time...
Ps: Nitpicker!
You may have counted 61?????but on the set up of 20 holes and then ten holes, nothing else could happen except 60 teeth.
Noel
dunno, I counted 59.
we now average to 60, anyway.
US teeth vs Metric teeth. It's like tons vs tonnes
@ 16:30 when he just finishes the last pass you can count 60 teeth :)
I know this is nit-picking, but your small shaft is actually a mandrel, not an arbor. An arbor holds a tool, a mandrel holds a workpiece. A single shaft can be either one, depending on how it is used. Love your work, Stefan!
I absolutely love the way you explain things. You have a way of making tasks seem much more simplistic than they really are. And your camera work and editing of your videos are also top-notch. Keep up the great work!
I stumbled upon your channel a short while ago. I'm thoroughly enjoying viewing (and re-viewing) your videos. As a new hobbyist, I don't have some of the equipment you have, or the quality of equipment, but I'm still learning a lot along the way. I particularly appreciate the set-up tips and tricks you use. I find that to be one of the shortcomings of machine shop classes I've attended in the past. You learn what all the knobs and buttons do, but not much about techniques to set up/fixture parts to do the machining. Thanks Stefan.
Great job Stefan. Precise and to the point as always. regards from the UK
hey brother, the effort you put into multiple cameras and shots makes a huge difference in the viewing experience. i love the way you explain things and your one of my top 3 favorite machining channels.. keep up the great work
Your attention to detail is that of a true master machinist! Always an inspiration to watch your work and CLEAN shop.
Stefan's videos, teaching, machining, & camera work is some of the best out there. Kudos dude.
Thank you!
Beautifully filmed and edited. One of your best productions.
Very nice project, some great info here. Thank you!
I recently made two T2.5 pulleys for the use with a rotary encoder to upgrade my lathe to an electronic lead screw. Since there are essentially no forces involved I ended up 3D printing them. Worked out OK after ‘fixing’ the center bores which were off by like 0.5mm…
The open pen above/in the book made me more nervous than I am ready to admit. Great work once more!
Made me nervous when I edited the video. Didnt realize it at the time in the shop :D
I was on edge for that part as well.
I can't thank you enough for how much I've learned about milling set ups watching your videos.
I really enjoy your videos. I am a beginner hobbyist with old iron machines. Your instruction throughout the video is simple and concise. Keep up the great videos.
Sehr meditativ und eines der schönsten flycutter videos das ich die letzten Jahre gesehen habe.
Stefan, thank you for your detailed explanation that you make in your movies, real German thoroughness, and il love it!
and don't forget that i am a Dutchman.
Excellent video! for me the easy way to internal/external broaching is the hemingway kits style leaver and am thinking of making a spindle lock and stepper motor indexing ,but im sure if I looked I could find a project shaper them bits you make are awesome another great job
What I notice is the quiet running of your machines, makes it very relaxing to watch. Good video and I always learn something. Thank you for sharing..:):)
Thank you! :)
They are not super quiet, but I reduce their volume down to 20% when I edit the video to prevent the ears of my viewers from getting blown out ;)
Interesting video. Thank you!
I would enjoy a video of grinding the tool bit also.
Hi.
I recently had to make a similar toothed belt drive but in my case the driven gear was a lot larger than the driving gear. Also it was a short belt with the gears close together. I realised that I didn't need to cut teeth on my driven gear so I didn't need to size it exactly either. I just made it as large as possible (plain pulley wheel). It works great and the belt doesn't slip. I reckon it's better than if I had cut the teeth and also the belt will last longer. Worth considering in some applications.
The automatic subtitles from RUclips called the sound of the shaper "music"!
Nice work Stefan! i really enjoy your videos👍Greetings from Finland😃
Great video/build...Merry Christmas
great video I really enjoy watching your projects . Very interesting and informative
Thanks Stefan, another great video with very useful tips on set up :-)
I find your videos very interesting and informative, thank you for sharing and the effort you put into your presentations.
Your Loktite certainly held well with the shaper cuts.
Another Stefan super job. Das was herlich!!
As Stefan calls it " a chemical press fit"
Good thing the other timing cog has fences so the belt won't want to wonder off. It looked like you had some radius on your form tool to me. Looking forward to the related build. Round pin in a square hole the need for steel center?
Thank you Stefan
I just got done doing this very same thing but it was a repair on a back gear they lost 2 teeth in a row. I actually did it twice I filled one with brazing rod and cut teeth then on my other spirits embley I carved out a notch and put a tiny block of cast iron in it and cut the teeth with a fly cutter. Worked amazingly well I was very surprised.
Of course all I did was shape the cutter so it fit by eye. Those back gears are more forgiving they're kind of a loose sloppy fit anyway. The brass ones working like a champ so I have a backup. I found an amazing way to sections cast iron I take my brazing rod brass rod heated up and pounded into a foil a heavy foil I should say cut it out and press it into the slot with the cast iron replacement piece of course you have to clean it very well and sprinkle a little bit of flux in it I just use borax.
Works good
Excellent tutorial Stefan! I had enjoyed another your wideo.
Regards from Prague, CZ.
Adopting the Taper Lock system for gears and pulleys provides a simpler off-the-shelf solution for custom this-to-that adaptations between random forms to random shafts.
Great video as always!
Veery good production Stefan, enjoyed as always, cheers!
Thank you!
I haven't had to cut a timing gear yet, but it is good to know how to do it now. Thanks. By the way, the new opening music is quite nice.
Bravo Stefan, nice work!
It's an interesting project very well explained. Thank you.
As always very nice work!
Very interesting video Stefan. Nice work.
Bob
Great work, thnx for sharing!
How can you fix side plates on teeths? Did you have any video showing the press operation?
Another thing is related with 8m gt profile, do you know where can i find it?
Just curious (sorry if this has already been covered), why didn't you machine the whole part from steel?
Sweet :) Are ya happy with the power quill ? and how's the viper power feed doing ?
Nice one as always Frank !
lovely, high quality work and video :-D
I use a lot of fly cutters like this, generally cutting brass clock gears, usually run them at 4000 rpm, I've not worked with aluminium much, is the slower speed recommended??
Another good video!
Best Matt
Standard German manufacturing procedure. That typical cleaning of surfaces with the hand. The German machinist
has a extraordinary sense of feeling to detect microscopic particles and irregularities going over metal surfaces. It is
a old craft. You can manufacture metal marvels with conventional non numeric controlled machines. Trust me on that.
The thing about your videos is I know I can click the like button before I even watch them.
That will do the job , Great job Stefan .. Great share man.. !! Thumbs up ..
Stefan, I wonder how/if you are going to machine the matching shaft spline? :)
Great job, cheers!
So I can use this technique on any gear?I don't have gear cutters,but it looks like the fly cutter technique would work on common gears,up to a practical size?Thank's Norm
As usual, an excellent video, I have noted before, your rotary table looks very versatile especially when used with the indexing discs, is that a Vertex rotary table???? what model is it plz, and lastly did the chuck as used on yr rotary table come with the backplate that looks handy for adjusting it,
many thanks and keep the videos coming we luv em
Hi.
Nice work and great video. But as an engineer Im curious to know the need for four keyways in such application?
thanks Stefan for another shaper vid on keyway cutting. I own a Dutch made toolroom shaper from AI in German the abbreviation means something like Artillerie Einrichtung. it has the same dimensions as your Gack shaper. I have already made a toolholder based on your example for cutting internal keyways. I am however still struggling with grinding the cutter. Mine are cutting the keyways and with quit a good finish but also the process sounds a bit more violent then in your video ;-). maybe the cutter is too wide or maybe my cuts are to large........
Very interesting, well done.
Looks like I need to do some woodwork. That dividing plate box is perfect.
Is the “future video” completed that shows the use of this gear? Please add the URL to the description of this video when it’s available.
Thanks for your good camera & lighting work. The resulting video is a pleasure to watch.
Quill or compound power feed? either way thank you for showing us your expertise methods on machine operations
my grandpa called, he wants his calculator from 1978 back.
I loooove the older Casio calcs :D
@@StefanGotteswinter when i was a kid i would play with one exactly like that and all i could do with it was spell boobs
7:56 ". . . when it's engaged . . ." ok, I låughed out loud. Much to my wife's annoyance.
Well done!
Thank you for the video.
You know, i've noticed that when you radius those teeth, the belts slip more. I've only made 20 such gears myself, so nothing is set in stone, but out of them the first ones were made with the prescribed method and they always slip when run time gets the belts worked a bit, or when they sit around a lot.
Almost certainly a Ouill feed for your Optimill F45 ......:-). ... btw, nice solution for disengaging the thing
If i can grind such a nice profile gear cutting tool i will adopt this method to make my own gear pulley.
Another great video!!
Thumbs up for your intresting videos! A have a question about a 127toot modul 1.75 gear. Its 20mm thick and abaut 225mm in diameter. I made it from regular steel from a scrap cut out piece from a cnc gastorch. When i tested it in my lathe i heard a ringing sound exactly the same frequens as if i tap it with something. Very anoying sound. The gear have a great profile. So there is nothing wrong there thats causing the sound. The original gear are made of cast iron and have four spokes. I think the diffrence lays there. Never expected that. Do you have any idea how to fix this problem?
Wow sir!! Very professional work. I do need to know what the gear is used for. Can you please provide the video title the gear makes its debut? :-)
You can also get most all of those dimensions off the reference section of SPI-SI.com. Last summer I made a MXL timing pulley the same way you did only now I wish I would have made the steel hub like yours.
Very neat job and shop. I like it
Very nice video. Thanks for posting.
Hi Stefan,
Half tooth or "Any Other Fraction", every machinist has to try it at least once, to get to know the feeling... lol
Very nice. Thanks for posting. Shapers are starting to get pricey in NA, like over $1000. I think you are to blame! 😆
Excellent video content, image quality, pacing, and editing. Amazing command of American English machinst idom. After watching your videos my shop always looks woefully unorganized and dirty.
Great job as always. Why do I get this feeling that Deutsch technical reference books are significantly more detailed than those found in other places of the world.
Wie immer interessant, dann warten wir mal auf den Pinolenvorschub :D
I don't believe you mentioned it in this video but I recall in another video you demonstrated how you center the cutter for cutting a keyway in the shaper. The process I recall seeing was simply dragging the cutter in and out of the bore until it scored a very light line and eyeballing it center. While I'm sure this is fine for 90% of jobs, there must be some jobs where this isn't good enough. For those jobs how would you do it?
nice as always
I'm curious why no clapper box for key cutting.
Thanks for another great video!
When you use the clapper with a slotting tool, that can result in a rather funny and expensive crash ;)
I have a sneaking suspicion (sp) that the application involves a power feed possibly for the quill on your mill. if you or any body watching has a set of keyway broaches you could cut the four slots by milling a keyway in the broach guide bushing 90 degrees from the guide slot. As always more than one way to skin the cat
real clear Thanks
Solid work :D
Thanks :)
Can you show me this book name please
Excellent project as always!
Question: Any suggestions on how to cut a keyway in a small bore without a shaper? I've seen variations on using the lathe carriage to hold a cutting tool with the part held in the lathe chuck. Is there a way the slot(s) could be cut on a vertical milling machine? Sure I could plunge down with small enough endmills but I'd love to hear your thoughts. Thanks!
In a pinch, for a one of, I would file it...
Or use the lathe as a shaper - Running the carriage back and forth, having something like a shapertool at centerheight in the toolpost.
Thanks for the feedback. If I may borrow one of your sayings "My personal OCD :-)" won't allow me to use a file for the keyways. It's a 6 position spline shaft that's about 45mm deep. I guess the safest route without spending a ton of cash is exactly as you suggest on the lathe. Thanks again for the excellent videos. I learn't a lot from just this video as I do from all of them.
Once again wonderful work and entertaing educating also well done again Brother. Alistair in Schottland Guten rutsch auch.
Stefan your editing is getting better and better. I really like the fading edits your adding in this last video. Very well done. What software are you running for your video editing if I may ask?
Dave
Thank you! I do all my editing with Kdenlive (Free, Opensource software)
Stefan, you make it look easy. Well from my limited experience I know its not Thank you.
Stefan, You seem to use loctite to permanently hold round things together such as sleeves and shafts. I understand that in low torque applications that this method is a quick way. But with this timing gear, you have 4 "keyways" which I would consider a setup for higher torque drives. Wouldn't a "Dutch Key" be preferred (2 opposing set screws threaded axially on split line)? I just don't have much experience and therefore confidence in the loctite adhesive method to permanently bond. I have seen where heat is used to remove the parts with loctite bonds.
If you use Loctite meant for glueing cylindrical parts and the parts are a sliding fit, you can pretty much assume they behave like a solid workpiece, granted that both parts were clean and you have 100 % coverage of the areas touching. I remember when someone with a bit of Loctite on their hands put a Morse taper 4 tool in the lathes tailstock and it had to be disassembled and brought to the hydraulic press, where it took roughly 40 tons to get the parts separated.
In the case Stefan here had, where he had steel hub and aluminum ring, a shrink fit would have been a very easy to do due to the different metals. Rule of thumb would be 0.001 mm per mm of size difference, so with a 20 mm hub your hole would be 19.98 or even 19.95 as the ring is aluminum and expands way more than steel. Shrink fits usually are disassembled by torching in half or just turning it to chips, pretty much permanent.
Nice! Any particular reason you cut the teeth on the mill instead of the planer? Just because you can? :)
On the shaper I would have to feed down for each tooth, on the mill I was able to take the whole cut at once :)
Je neuer die Auflage des Buches desto weniger sind diese Bereiche erläutert -.-
sei froh, dass du noch ein älteres hast, nebenbei kann ich dir die Zerspaner-version des Tabellenbuches nur ans Herz legen, falls du die nicht schon bereits besitzt.
Und ansonsten gute Arbeit, bin gespannt auf die nächsten Videos.
Why oh why did you sell the shaper?
ΕΙΣΑΙ ΦΑΝΤΑΣΤΙΚΟΣ....TECHNIKO.
Hmm,
Great teaser at the end (for those who read German...)
Nice video, enjoyed as always/
Stefan, I always enjoy your videos. Q: what downwards angle is the slotting tool bar set at on your shaper? i want to make a similar mount and tool for my douglas shaper.
Nice work and i look forward to your next video 😎
I think thats about 5 degrees - The previous owner of the shaper made that holder, but I would not build it with the angle. I prefer to grind the relief angle into my tools.
Stefan Gotteswinter Really? I thought it would help with tool deflection. i would think that the extra effort including the angle was for more than cutter relief... hmm
Not sure about cutter deflection, but I get often in clearance issues with the tool in small bores. You can see that I had to file down quite a bit of material from the top of the tool to get clearance.
Does the glue prevent galvanic interactions between the aluminium and the steel?
YeahNo- I dont know, dont think that thats an issue :)
Ok, just crossed my mined.
I really enjoy you videos by the way. :)
am I the only one that finds the shaper's rythmic action into the hole very suggestive?
Dirty mind!
This Old Tony's video pixelates the to/fro movement :)
Stefan, do you happen to know if the reference book you use is available in an English edition?
It is!
www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Trades-Handbook-Ulrich-Fischer/dp/3808519142/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481594020&sr=8-1&keywords=Mechanical+and+Metal+Trades+Handbook
Best thing, all metric ;)
+Stefan Gotteswinter I have a decent handle on most things metric except for splines. I have yet to figure them out. Plus the German/European metals system. To used to SAE
This gear looks exactly like intended for a Pinolenvorschub of a MB4/F45 mill.
Might be ;)
If you don't have a shaper could you use a milling machine?
A better option would be a (press) broach with a custom plug made for the multiple slots needed.
0.200mm runout is ok for your chuck alignment? For shame Stefan - you are better than that. It you didn't have a shaper (only a German has a shaper in their basement) how would you cut the key Ways? Also when you mention a specific kind of material, I would appreciate
one sentence about it. You used 75?? Aluminum which I've never herd of, so what are its characteristics? A short video sometime on material selection and characteristics would be much appreciated. Thanks for a great video. Is that machinist book available in English, with large type?
The dial indicator he's using has graduations (marks) every 0.01mm. When he says "two hundredths of a millimetre" it'll be two of the marks, or 0.02mm indicated runout. He's using 7075 aluminium alloy which is pretty common so you can google it if you want more information.
I can't afford to watch your videos anymore. Every time you convince me there is another tool I need to buy!
stefan interesting video nice work.
Thanks :)
Where do you get T2,5 belts from?
Hi mate. Is there anything better than a shaper?!
They say you can make anything on a shaper except a living :)