Photo-transfer on Stone Litho
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- Опубликовано: 16 фев 2021
- Photo-transfer to litho stone using Estisol 150.
Estisol is a synthetic ester fluid that replaces the use of Acetone or other dangerous/toxic VOCs in this process.
Things you will need:
Litho stone grained to 220
Estisol 150
Laser print or photocopy (not inkjet)
Clear mylar sheet
Litho press
PPE (gloves and eye protection)
I'm going to be learning stone lithography in August and my instructor said we could use this technique to start with, as i don't have a lot of time to draw my image on the stone.. Im pleased you can still add sketch marks after transferring your photo. Thanks for a very clear demo.
thank you for the demonstration
Excellent.
Wow simplicity
How u can got material how i can joining your studio
Why a greased scraper bar instead of a roller?
How are the grey tones reproduced without a half tone screen ?
There is a halftone in the original laser print!
Omg this liquid seems so much easier and safer than acetone - acetone evaporates so frigging fast. Now I need to figure out where I get this magic liquid in denmark or just europe
You should be able to find Estisol *much* easier in Europe than in Canada. Acetone sux! Good luck.
@@professortruszkowski thank you
@@nicnaknoc How did it go? I am trying to find some from Switzerland
@@NYSOUN I've had no luck so far, I can't buy it without a chemical license 😅
Hi! Any tips when printing the photo on the laser printer? Do I just print out as is?
Some laser printers/copiers work better than others, but most will be ok for the process (as long as they are black&white... not colour machines) I find that higher contrast images work well. If you are using an image with tonality, you might want to put a halftone on your image either in Photoshop, or in the printer/copier setting itself, if that's possible. The biggest thing to keep in mind, and the thing my students often struggle with is this > photo transfers are cool, but they are NOT photographs! The process can't compete with photography, or even other photo-Printmaking processes in terms of sharpness or clarity. But if you approach this as a means to putting something "photographic" onto a stone, and then you carry on with the stone from there, you will probably enjoy it much more. Good luck!
where do you get the estisol or what is a good replacement?
I have a multi-year supply, which I obtained from a colleague at a university in Toronto years ago. They originally ordered it directly from the manufacturer in Belgium, I believe. (Sorry, that’s not much help to you.) Alternatives include acetone, which is very stinky and flammable. It requires a slightly different approach to making the transfer and is prone to blurring the image. Another option is Oil of Wintergreen which can be done similarly to my estisol method, but despite its minty smell, is pretty toxic. With appropriate ventilation and PPE, (and practice!) both alternatives are doable, just not ideal.
Hi, I’d like to know if you used raster image for it ? If so, what do you reckon for a 300dpi image ? Which halftone looks ok for you on photoshop ? Many thanks in advance.
Kindly Ewa
I have played with all sorts of imagery and imaging output strategies. If you are wanting really clear photographic results on the stone, you actually need to use a fairly coarse halftone… ellipse dot 45-60 LPI. My experience that going higher/finer with the image IS transferable to the stone, BUT things tend to fill in. Midtones shift darker and shadows turn black (or whatever colour you’re printing). My advice to my students is to use slightly higher contrast images in the first place, and to shift their expectations from “a photo printed from a stone” to “something photographic on a stone that can then be worked/reworked/drawn into.” (Think of the transfer as an additional kind of drawing tool.)
@@professortruszkowski thank you very much for taking the time to answer me
It's backwards. What if your image has text? Or you just plain don't want it backwards?
You are right! So like many other things in Printmaking, the image needs to be reversed first. In this case, I flipped the digital photo in PS before printing to the laser printer. Even if this was being done as low tech as possible (using a photocopier), most machines will have a setting to flip.