@@TobyClimbs yeah, I probably spend way too much time on RUclips... which probably means you're unlikely to see me as that would mean putting my phone down...
Hi guys! I had just discovered climbing and was loving it so much. After only a month, my knee started throbbing every time I went down stairs, and even in my sleep, and then my shoulder started feeling tight at the front so I couldn't reach across to my other shoulder, or above my head without pain. I had to stop climbing for a month and see a kinesiologist twice a week (Feeling SO OLD at 36). I had probably gone a little too hard too quickly considering I had never done such a physical activity. Anyway, during that time I learned that I should warm up properly. Looked on the net, found your first shoulder video, bought a bunch of exercise bands, incorporated all your warm ups into my other prescribed exercises, and I've been watching your videos ever since, even though I don't need them :-D I think I just like hearing you clear and detailed explanations about how our bodies work, and more importantly... the cheesiness Hahaha. Please keep up the cheese ;-)
This is awesome! Thank you for watching and I'm glad you have found the channel to be useful. Fortunately, I think it will be impossible to not keep up the cheesiness, it is in our nature.
Two advanced biceps exercises: 1) Supination curl: Perform supinating bicep curls using an adjustable dumbbell with WEIGHT LOADED ONLY ON THE PINKY SIDE. This will strongly bias the biceps over other elbow flexors as it challenges the biceps as a forearm supinator as well as an elbow flexor. 2) Supine shoulder raise: Perform a front raise with arms externally rotated while lying supine on a bench. Can perform with cables, bands, or rings, instead. This biases the long head of the biceps as a shoulder flexor.
Awesome! Can you do a video on forearm pain for climbers? Most PTs just say ice and don’t climb. For example I’ve had 7 weeks of pain and weakness from my hand and seems to come from my forearm (bottom side that would touch a table if you put your arm in a table)
Good question! Most likely the forearm pain is related to a medial epicondylalgia (climber's elbow) issue. While it may seem like a separate issue (most people look at climber's elbow as just an elbow issue) the reality is that the muscles start at the elbow and run down your forearm and into the hand. There are of course other possibilities ranging from a cervical issue to a nerve entrapment issue, but the aforementioned idea is the most likely. Check out this video we made previously and see if it helps! ruclips.net/video/vaLFC1pG_OI/видео.html
I feel the pain in my shoulder right where you mentioned it, but it happens when I release it i.e. when I stop pulling outside (like on the wall) rather than *when* pulling, it's almost like a small electrical discharge. Could it be the same problem?
I have some minor soarness in my shoulder after going ice climbing for the first time. After doing these tests and some others on your shoulder videos I don't think it's a serious injury. But like I said it is soar. I've rested for a few days now and my question is when should I start strengthening? Should I just try some of the shoulder exercises in your video or should I go straight into doing the full sets? Thanks!
I’ve been diagnosed with a labrum tear and have a lot of pain in the proximal bicep area with pressing and pulling motions. Do I only treat the labrum or do i also directly treat the bicep with isometrics and other stuff that you didn’t mention but have probably heard of for tendonopathy.
Look through the scap retractor and rotator cuff videos we have made, and there is another more recent shoulder circuit that has some as well. We should make one just focusing on the lower and mid trap, though! They are definitely important enough for their own spotlight.
Do you have a tear of the Transverse Humeral Ligament? That would allow the bicep tendon to slide out of the groove, otherwise you may have a separate issues causing this sensation.
If it is a truly acute inflammation the symptoms should be resolved within 72 hours if you have not continued to exacerbate them. If you continue to exacerbate the symptoms it will take longer and may turn into a chronic issue.
@@HoopersBeta I'm not sure if I'm explaining myself accurately, but by "accute" I mean I basically reached overhead last night (2/19/2020) working on the Moonboard, felt a sharp pain, heard a pop, and immediately ended the session. If your advice still holds I'm glad. I'm experiencing mild pain if I reach behind and overhead and am currently applying your first technique to provide some relief. Thanks again for your timely video.
Thanks for the explanation. It sounds like there may be some tissue damage involved (those words are always scary to people, keep in mind it can range from very mild to well, worse) so the timeline would depend on the extent of damage. It would be hard to give you an accurate timeline without evaluating the injury. Your best bet is likely to follow (as you mention) the video for some self testing and avoid activities that exacerbate your symptoms. It would be advisable to seek further / professional help if the pain is not improving within a week (doesn't mean it has to be gone, just improving, at least).
Stretches can be done multiple times per day, depending on your goals. If you want to improve tissue mobility (and the stretches cause no discomfort), the general recommendation is 3x30 seconds 2-3x/day, and a more realistic recommendation (lol) would be 2x30 seconds 2x/day. Try not to do longer (30second) stretches before exercise, although. Dynamic and/or ballistic stretching should be utilized before exercising / climbing.
It took me ages to realise my biceps were part of the issue when I hurt my shoulder. Excellent informative video again.
Thank you! Yeah, the should is quite complex so it is definitely hard to have all the pieces. But, that's also what makes it so fun to work with.
You comment on every video I watch at this point id recognize you in public as the comment guy!
@@TobyClimbs yeah, I probably spend way too much time on RUclips... which probably means you're unlikely to see me as that would mean putting my phone down...
I've watched so many videos on this topic, and this is by far the clearest out of the bunch. Thanks!
Hi guys! I had just discovered climbing and was loving it so much. After only a month, my knee started throbbing every time I went down stairs, and even in my sleep, and then my shoulder started feeling tight at the front so I couldn't reach across to my other shoulder, or above my head without pain. I had to stop climbing for a month and see a kinesiologist twice a week (Feeling SO OLD at 36). I had probably gone a little too hard too quickly considering I had never done such a physical activity. Anyway, during that time I learned that I should warm up properly. Looked on the net, found your first shoulder video, bought a bunch of exercise bands, incorporated all your warm ups into my other prescribed exercises, and I've been watching your videos ever since, even though I don't need them :-D I think I just like hearing you clear and detailed explanations about how our bodies work, and more importantly... the cheesiness Hahaha. Please keep up the cheese ;-)
This is awesome! Thank you for watching and I'm glad you have found the channel to be useful. Fortunately, I think it will be impossible to not keep up the cheesiness, it is in our nature.
Top notch quality. Thanks again!
Two advanced biceps exercises:
1) Supination curl: Perform supinating bicep curls using an adjustable dumbbell with WEIGHT LOADED ONLY ON THE PINKY SIDE. This will strongly bias the biceps over other elbow flexors as it challenges the biceps as a forearm supinator as well as an elbow flexor.
2) Supine shoulder raise: Perform a front raise with arms externally rotated while lying supine on a bench. Can perform with cables, bands, or rings, instead. This biases the long head of the biceps as a shoulder flexor.
Do you have a video for shoulder mobility exercises? And shoulder warmup and stretching exercises as well?
Thank you! Excellent information and helpful testing
Hey Doc! What would you recommend in terms of training/climbing in case you do have a labrum tear? THanks!
Awesome! Can you do a video on forearm pain for climbers? Most PTs just say ice and don’t climb.
For example I’ve had 7 weeks of pain and weakness from my hand and seems to come from my forearm (bottom side that would touch a table if you put your arm in a table)
Good question! Most likely the forearm pain is related to a medial epicondylalgia (climber's elbow) issue. While it may seem like a separate issue (most people look at climber's elbow as just an elbow issue) the reality is that the muscles start at the elbow and run down your forearm and into the hand. There are of course other possibilities ranging from a cervical issue to a nerve entrapment issue, but the aforementioned idea is the most likely. Check out this video we made previously and see if it helps!
ruclips.net/video/vaLFC1pG_OI/видео.html
Such a great video!
Very well presented
Thank you!
Super informative. Thanks man!
Glad it was helpful!
Really amazing, thank you!
I feel the pain in my shoulder right where you mentioned it, but it happens when I release it i.e. when I stop pulling outside (like on the wall) rather than *when* pulling, it's almost like a small electrical discharge. Could it be the same problem?
Thank you great video!!
I have some minor soarness in my shoulder after going ice climbing for the first time. After doing these tests and some others on your shoulder videos I don't think it's a serious injury. But like I said it is soar. I've rested for a few days now and my question is when should I start strengthening? Should I just try some of the shoulder exercises in your video or should I go straight into doing the full sets? Thanks!
Whenever initiating a new form of strengthening I recommend easing yourself into it. Small changes are easier for the body to handle than larger ones.
Can i continue weight training or should i take a couple weeks off?
I’ve been diagnosed with a labrum tear and have a lot of pain in the proximal bicep area with pressing and pulling motions. Do I only treat the labrum or do i also directly treat the bicep with isometrics and other stuff that you didn’t mention but have probably heard of for tendonopathy.
You likely also need to increase the strength of the rotator cuff to increase stability.
@@HoopersBeta thanks I’m doing that as well
My subscapularis keeps getting pulled/ strained what should I do
Where can the videos on strengthening the mid and lower traps be found?
Look through the scap retractor and rotator cuff videos we have made, and there is another more recent shoulder circuit that has some as well. We should make one just focusing on the lower and mid trap, though! They are definitely important enough for their own spotlight.
are there exercises if the bicep tendon is sliding out of the biceptal groove? It happens now to me only when I do a shoulder width pull up. :(
Do you have a tear of the Transverse Humeral Ligament? That would allow the bicep tendon to slide out of the groove, otherwise you may have a separate issues causing this sensation.
I climb at this gym, I injured myself on that yellow wall... No cap
Sorry to hear about the injury but glad you know The Wall!
Estimated time to heal from an acute case of this? How long of a rest? Thanks!
If it is a truly acute inflammation the symptoms should be resolved within 72 hours if you have not continued to exacerbate them. If you continue to exacerbate the symptoms it will take longer and may turn into a chronic issue.
@@HoopersBeta I'm not sure if I'm explaining myself accurately, but by "accute" I mean I basically reached overhead last night (2/19/2020) working on the Moonboard, felt a sharp pain, heard a pop, and immediately ended the session. If your advice still holds I'm glad. I'm experiencing mild pain if I reach behind and overhead and am currently applying your first technique to provide some relief. Thanks again for your timely video.
Thanks for the explanation. It sounds like there may be some tissue damage involved (those words are always scary to people, keep in mind it can range from very mild to well, worse) so the timeline would depend on the extent of damage. It would be hard to give you an accurate timeline without evaluating the injury. Your best bet is likely to follow (as you mention) the video for some self testing and avoid activities that exacerbate your symptoms. It would be advisable to seek further / professional help if the pain is not improving within a week (doesn't mean it has to be gone, just improving, at least).
How often should I do these stretches?
Stretches can be done multiple times per day, depending on your goals. If you want to improve tissue mobility (and the stretches cause no discomfort), the general recommendation is 3x30 seconds 2-3x/day, and a more realistic recommendation (lol) would be 2x30 seconds 2x/day. Try not to do longer (30second) stretches before exercise, although. Dynamic and/or ballistic stretching should be utilized before exercising / climbing.