My 3D Printed BOOSTED BOARD KILLER
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- Опубликовано: 21 июл 2024
- You can almost 3D Print anything, so I decided to print my electric skateboard. Or at least as much as possible of it.
This project took way longer than expected and was shot already in summer 18, so sry for the huge delay but I've been working on so many things and been studying for University so time is rare.
Project page: www.electric-skateboard.build...
(due to strong censorship now also here) forum.esk8.news/t/3d-printed-...
Music:
Hard Dope Trap Beat 2019 II "Lamborghini" II Prod. Octilary
• Video
Cassette - Smooth Boom Bap Beat
• Cassette - Smooth Boom...
Travis Scott "No Warnings"| Hard Trap Beat Instrumental | 2018|
• Video
Lakey Inspired
/ lakeyinspired 
Авто/Мото
Man if you can make this board commercially. I would buy it! 🙏
me too... greetings from Serbia
Dreaming is doing. We will be seeing this in 2020 😉
And me that’s awesome
Oof give me one.
Just start your own company with this already
millionaire overnight
I have a name for it: "NOT A BOOSTED BOARD!" ...or... "B.B. (Better than Boosted!)"
@@vuswa thats really dumb
@@vuswa Good idea, and you can make a fast food chain called "Better than McDonalds" and hope you don't get sued.
Not many people are going to pay for a 3D printed board. Get ready to pay 50k for each injection mold. The market is flooded with competition and these electric longboards are fairly easy to make. There is not much to differentiate the product besides it's wattage and the 18650 batteries he's using are available everywhere. Then you need to look at profit margins after raw materials, shipping, and assembly to determine if there's actually a potential business there.
Respekt wirklich !💪
Dass du so viel deiner Endergebnisse deines Lernprozess hier bereit stellst der Hammer
Extrem hilfreich und zeitsparend für alle die solche projekte angehen
I think this guy is a German.
Get to se chappa
@@Pryside xD are you trying to say (get tu da chappa ) ? Like Arnold did? Austrian accent haha ..
Btw I really loved your skateboard .. and the technical details .. well done..
Yes, he is, he's from Tübingen,Baden-Württemberg
You can see in his Video, where he showcases the driving, talking about the reliability, that he drives by cars and if you pause, you can see their Plates ;-)
@@WhitedevilEE if you watch the video and notice the engineering level.. you also reach the conclusion that he's German ;D
He's Lucky to be live in Deutschland
@@laitchdasi He's not lucky, because these boards are not allowed to drive on public streets here. (I'm German too)
So his board is highly illegal and could be taken by to police if they stop him. (Most cops however are cool about it, as long as you drive responsible and don't hurt/endager anyone)
You read technical specs like Eminem in rap-battle :)
If you carry this 9.5 Kilo board you knees will weaken and your arm get heavy, then there will be vomit on your sweater already, moms spagetti
einfach nur unglaublich, wie du es hinbekommst, dass deine Boards sich immer übertreffen, während ich noch an meinem Ersten am bauen bin und durch dauerhafte Komplikationen nach ca einem halben jahr erst 30 km gefahren bin
Fazit: Hut ab ich bin begeistert. Mach weiter so
Thank you for designing this thing, i have an beaten Loaded board and been wondering for this for a while now. I've thought of installing hub motors because of all the dirt (live on the countryside). Keep on designing and posting these amazing projects, cheers! :)
Freaking awesome dude. Thank you so much for all the work and safety priorities in place on the build! I plan to start my first print today. My goal is to have this project completed by August. 😁 So stoked
Richtig geiles Projekt 👍👌 freue mich schon auf das nächste Video
LOADED VANGUARD! Been my favorite board for the past 6 years. Amazing board
Quite expensive but really worth it, so smooth to ride :)
Learned a lot too. Adding that diode at the input of VESC for over voltage protection, using UART to control the VESC. And water proofing the electronics, cheap and better bearings, etc. Thanks a lot.
Hands down !! The best Pryside Video !! 🔥🔥
Watched it nearly 50 times !!
Very nice new Video! Man, I just love that stuff!
Beautifull design, Keep up the good work. Will def try out your build !! TY for sharing the build and info
Man, thank you so much for this video. I really don't understand why people are disliking it. I'll be building two boards for my university project this year and your video helped widen my scope on things I need to analyse. Thanks for the video. You got yourself a new subscriber
thanks really nice to hear.
Yeah I made english videos since a year ago, some ppl are still pissed I switched to english... But its okay :D
Great scott! This is just awesome!
Such an awesome build!
Very informative lots to think about some really good ideas by far the best video I have watched recently I hope you do well thanks for sharing
Enjoyed it a lot. Smart BMS and good choice on high power battery could be the next improvement for my esk8board. 🤗
your amazing and inspiring. your bb killer is fab. i've subbed. keep skating
That is just awesome dude! Amazing stuff. I'd like to have a try making this as I have a 3D printer and old longboard gathering dust in my shed. Thanks in advance! :D
Great video of a great build dude! DIY forever ❤️
Yes, more insane stuff like this.
Thank you for this video! Really helpful!
This is a great video, you’ve certainly earned my subscription! I’d love to see a video about your anti spark switch and how you made it. Keep up the great work!
Thanks, yeah that propably will be the next video when I find the time.
Wow, amazing work!.
Alter, wie machst du das alles, der absolute Wahnsinn. Mann muss so intelligent sein um so etwas zu bauen
Another useful and super cheap addition is a small pack of silica gel inside the casing. It will keep out condensation vapour and maintain as dry an area as possible.
You will get them free in PLA filament packs so just keep and use.
I have a 500W board but its not enough because of my weight
Where do you think i can boost it?
I dont know anything about it
hey kannst du mir sagen wie du die battery gemacht hast? Ich versuche die in dein designtes gehäuse reinzupacken , weiss aber nicht wie ich die erbinden soll ohne das ich den ganzen strom durch nur 1streifen leite. Ich hab angst das der nickel streifen zu heisst wird!
Big respect
Freue mich schon drauf 💥💥💥
You got my sub and like with one amazing high quality video, congratulations :)
glad you liked it :D
Echt tolles Projekt und klasse Video! Ich glaube der Algorithmus würde sich freuen wenn mehr Videos, die dafür aber ein wenig kürzer sind, kommen würden. Ich hoffe das Video wird trotzdem weit verbreitet werden.
Woher hast du die Motor Halterungen und wie hast du die Riemen Aufnahme an die Reifen gemacht
nice mal wieder was von dir zu sehen.
I would strongly recommend TIG welding those motor brackets to those trucks. I had the same setup with a single motor. After about 200 km the motor mount to truck interface was so loose that the belt started to slip. I had even drilled and tapped the trucks properly with 3 set screws to hold the motor bracket. No problem since I paid someone to weld them for me. Love the build tho!
Nah, no need to. I have ridden these mounts almost 2000km in total and never had any issues. I used loctite 648 for where the mount is touching the axle and loctite 243 for all screws. Holds perfectly.
Nicely done! I’m a sophomore in high school right now but I’m probably going to be an electrical engineer when I grow up. It’s incredible that a relatively small device like that can pull 5kw!
Nice, very cool to hear. I'm currently studying as an EE, it's very useful because you have more options where you want to work at and it's easier to get into higher positions at big companies like Tesla or so. But for a person like you who experiments with flyback transformers in his freetime, this will probably be a huge boring ton of theory. My first sem was almost completely on how electric fields in a capacitor work and you have to calculate a ton of stuff that doesn't really get used unless you want to work at nichicon.
I usually only enjoy like 10% of the stuff I learn there everything else is just nice to hear but not practical.
Oh okay, it sounds like pretty much what I do in my physics class just more In depth. I wish I could learn more practical things in class and not theories, but I guess that’s what brought me to this video! I learn pretty much everything I know from RUclips.
This was amazing
LOVE the gritty details! You should start selling boards!
This dude is a blood genius.
For anyone looking to get an easy to use and cheap 3d printer, the ender 3 and ender 3 Pro by creality are good options.
I'd be willing to pay a premium price for your hard work.
Me too.
Great video and build!
Great video. Can you put a link of the TVS Diode you used for the vesc protection? I'm running a 10s3p battery (236.5W) battery and Vesc and 6374 149kv motors. Also, can you make a video on how to install the TVS Diode on the vesc.
You are brilliant!
nice review, and like it much ! might also do some exploration after finish my first build of el-board 1x beld drive based on VESK 4.2 with 5045 motor and 7s2P battery 6A. then may go with this even deeper :) anyway cool guide Leo !
Your awesome man. Thank you.
When you will get into detail with that anti spark switch .... A video i mean ... Great work by the way!
takes a few weeks, I want to make this a pcb that people can purchase or build themself easily.
would it go faster if you put bigger tyres on it?
I just bought a electric longboard kit that has a 10s2p battery and 2 500w hub motors. Would I use the same TVS Diode for my board or do I need a different one since I had less power going through mine?
No you can use the same tvs diode if you want. 10S is a bit less likely to break. but if you got the normal cheap vescs I would still recommend you solder a TVS on the PCB
would have loved to see more details about how the electronics where put together since im a complete nub when it comes to that
Zealous bearings with metal balls are relatively "cheap" and very smooth after a break-in period.
Arnold.. is that you? you can't fool me !
dein macher und optimierer geist hat mich überzeugt, abo :D
Hey Leo Pryside
hab auf der Seite die du verlinkt hast gelesen,dass man den Vesc auf der Firmware 3.4 updaten soll wegen der FireFly.Hab bei Esk8 auf der Seite gelesen das die falsche Firmware den Vesc zerstört.Meine frage ist wird mein Vesc kaputt wen ich ihn mit der Firmware 3.4 laufen lasse,da es nicht die aktuellste ist.
die falsche firmware zerhaut dir den bootloader auf dem vesc. einfach die richtige firmware flashen. Wenn du den esk8 hast dann musst du die firmware für die HW Version 4.12 flashen
Great video and very informative. one question I had is how would I put a TVS diode on my VESC that I got from diy electric skateboard (torque boards)?
Many thanks,
Same thing, on the pcb itself right where both the red and black cables are soldered onto the pcb.
Put it right on top of them, direction doesnt matter with the bi-directional one.
You maybe have to cut open the shrinking tube but its quite worth it.
How is the ribbon cable electrically isolated from the rider? Is it only the griptape?
Some tape and the griptape, but it doesnt need isolation apart from each other since its only 50V fully charged anyway and safe to touch.
all i can think about when watching this is (i'll be back)
Werden die Zahnräder aus Kunststoff nicht sehr schnell abbrechen?
Hey leo,
Really enjoying your content!
About to build this board as well!
Can I ask you to do a video about the Anti Spark?
I've seen your schematics, but I'm not super sure about everything...I would really appreciate a video about that :)
Greets from Berlin
Auf wie viel Volt kann ich meine Zelle noch sicher entladen und was würdest du empfehlen? Ich würde dich noch gerne etwas zu einem Killswitch fragen, wo soll ich ihn verbinden und mit welchen Komponenten?
batterien kanst bis 3 v gut entladen ohne zu großen schaden anzurichten besser 3.2 oder so nur nicht unter 2.8 dann wirds kritisch
Li-ion zellen mögen ganz voll und ganz leer nicht. 2.5V ist ganz leer, 4,2V ist ganz voll, jetzt suchs dir selbst aus, schau dir die Entladekurve deiner zellen an und entscheide wo es sich nicht mehr lohnt zu entladen, standardmäßig würde ich im vesc dann noch etwas drunter gehen. Mein eboard ist glaub auf 3V-2.8V battery cutoff eingestellt, sodass ich unter belastung noch auf 3V runterfallen kann und es nicht gleich drosselt bei 30% akku. Erst so bei 20% und niedriger merkt man die drosselung. Ich entlade eigentlich nie unter 3,2V
I use quality capacitor on my drones circuit board for noise filtering on the battery. Thx for the tip for esk8 electronic I did not know the TVS diode.
I also added a tvs to my drone, just keeps it safe and avoids broken escs
@@Pryside I burnt a lot of esc... I will a TVs also. Super thank you.
Hi I'm trying to add the motor protectors to my flipsky 6374 motors but when I mount them it creates a whole lot of friction and you can barely turn the motors by hand. Is that bad?
My motor guards are not really made for any other motors, the guards are propably crooked and bent since cables and everything else is propably not the same as on my torqueboard motors. See if it really fits, propably you'll have to design your own. Only took me like 20 minutes of cad. Really simple design
@@Pryside thanks for the reply! im going on to build the battery pack now!
Awesome Video! And the board looks incredible! Will you make any videos on riding it with a pov camera? I would like to see more of what it can do.
actually tried that a few times before but it just looks a little wierd. I can point the camera downwards that you see the board, but then you cant see anything of the environment and everything interesting disappears. I can point it forwards and you will see the environment I'm riding towards but you dont see anything of the board.
With a bike this is easy since a chestmounted gopro gives you a good sense of what the rider is riding and where, but on an electric skateboard all this sense of what I am riding disappears.
Warum hast du eine p6ke56ca genommen wenn die eine Reverse Stand-off Voltage von 48,8V hat? Leitet die dann nicht schon wenn dein Board auf 50,4V voll ist? Oder leitet die erst schlagartig wenn die min Breakdown Voltage erreicht wird?
Jain. In Wiki steht:
"Maximale Sperrspannung (Maximum reverse standoff voltage): Die Spannung, bis zu der die Suppressordiode nicht nennenswert leitet."
"Durchbruchspannung (Breakdown voltage): Die Spannung, ab der die Suppressordiode in den leitfähigen Zustand übergeht."
Heißt die wird da paar mA leiten aber nix nennswertes. Erst ab 53-58V also ab 4,4V pro Zelle (kann also nicht durch rekuperieren bei vollem akku entstehen) wird die Diode leitend.
Warum ich die dennoch genommen hab obwohl die doch schon ziemlich auf kante ist, einfach weil der rest auch so auf Kante designed ist. Die komponenten halten 60V aus, brauch also was das noch davor anfängt zu leiten, und dass machen eben nur dioden die eben schon vorher auch etwas strom durchrieseln lassen.
i dont even ride but would buy simply cause of all the ingenuity and build quality...sub'd
Hey, das Video ist gut gemacht!
Ich gehe mal davon aus, dass du eigentlich deutsch sprichst, dem Akzent nach. ;-)
Inspiriert zum nachmachen, weil du vor allem deine negativen Erfahrungen aus einem früheren Projekt darstellst und anwendest.
Welches BMS wirst du für dein neues E-Bike verwenden und wann kommen die ersten Videos?
Gleiche dass ich schon in dem video hier vorgestellt hab ruclips.net/video/QQW3uuzNnkg/видео.html
ersten videos dazu kommen vllt nächsten Monat, jetzt mach ich erstmal noch 2 eboard reviews und ein anti-spark video fertig
I’m going to Germany next week, do you have one for sale?
Endlich ein neues Video!!!
How do you get the motor mounts on straight?
Haha, not that easy. Mounted the angle bracket first. Then screwed in the motors first, put a piece of perfboard between them and clamped them together. Put the wheels on the check the spacing. Put quite a bit of loctite 648 on the axle itself and loctite 243 on the screws. screwed everything in and you got yourself a straight and strong motor mount.
Is there any way I can buy an electric skateboard from you one like the one you made in the last video you posted
Hi Leo,
thanks for your video. It is very impressive. I have some questions:
1. in your previous video you were soldering the battery pack. Did you find any huge disadvantages compared to welding?
2. how did you integrate the smart bms? most can only handle up to 70A, but your setup must have at least the double.
Thanks.
Yes, in my first eBoard and also my very old eBike I used to solder the cells, I think its still an okay option if you have a somewhat powerful soldering iron. The main reason I switched to welding is because its way cleaner and theoretically doesnt stress the cells so much. Spotwelding saves quite some space and looks overall way nicer than soldering.
Even I use a 60A BMS. But these 60A are the rated constant current. Meaning 2500W constant power. Thats more than enough. The BMS can handle 250A peak easily.
I also have an anet a8. I bought it 2 years ago for 170 € and it's still working really good. For remote I used a rc remote control but build an arduino nano in it for all this controling stuff.
Saw some Ender 3 Prints and for the price this is propably the best print quality. But with a Boden Style you can't print TPU, so Anet A8 stays my favorite cheap printer for now :)
awesome
Super Video! hoffe ich komme im Sommer dazu es nachzubauen
Hallo Leo,
Ich habe dein Anti Spark Switch nachgebaut jedoch ist dieser mir nach einer kleinen Testfahrt hochgeflogen. Ich vermute, dass die >60 Ampere zu viel für meinen Drahtwiederstand (axial, 50 W, 1 Ohm) waren. Dieser ist auch sichtbar kaputt gegangen.
Hast du einen Tipp, welcher Drahtwiederstand besser geeignet wäre oder liegt der Fehler doch wo anders?
Hi tim. Da hast du was falsch gebaut und die Funktion davon nicht verstanden. Kein strom fließt im betrieb über R3.
Von meim antispark gibts mitlerweile ein gut getestetes pcb, kannst dir mal anschauen verkauf ich im forum.
www.electric-skateboard.builders/t/3d-printed-boosted-board-killer/88803/177
@@Pryside
Okay danke 👍
Bockt sich mega das Video zu schauen trotz englisch vorallem weil man merkt wie viel Motivation drinn steckt
Ganz ehrlich, dafür dass es jetzt so viele neue leute genießen können ists den abstrich schon wert.
@Leo Pryside How did you write your name on the parts in Fusion?
By the way, your new board really is a great succes!
Why didn‘t you use that anti-spark thing on your first electric skateboard?
Ps: I‘m preferring the Creality Cr-10 as a 3d Printer. One thing to add, could you please make a video of the upgrades, you‘ve done to your printer?
My Name on the Parts? Under sketches there is a option for text.
Thanks :D
I did actually it was the V2 design in the pdf of the V3 I published. It works but can be destroyed by switching on and of very fast.
yes I can do a 3d printer check video, actually thought about this already a few times, just dont have the time for a new video right now.
what kind of belt did you use?
strongbelt or something. I get them from online belt stores. like zahnriemen24
Hi Leo! I hope you can help me really quickly... I am DIYing my own E-Longboard right now and would like to add a TVS diode to my seltup as well. I am running on a 10S2P (18650) Setup with a Dual VESC 4.20. Can you please give me advice what TVS diode I should use? I think you run on a 12S setup right? Do the diode specs need to be any different between 12S and 10S? Thank you so much! Keep the good vids comming!!!! Cheers!
The tvs mentioned in the video and mentioned in the forum. 12S with tvs and low ir caps like EEUFR1J681L is ok. You could use a lower breakdown tvs but this diode is ok for all
@@Pryside Thank you very much for the quick answer! You are the best! Keep the good vids comin'
Could you let me know what you think of the apsu board or if the range is actually 25-30 miles with the Panasonic 32BD 36v 12.8 Ah 10S4P battery and 2x1000watt Motors for only $700 US, completely new and trying to buy a cheap good quality board
cheap good quality board.... That doesnt work. Either cheap or good quality. panasonic 32DB cells dont even exist but their drivetrain is the usual one that everybody uses that doesnt even allow for belt tentioning. Maybe look into the meepo boards they are cheap and ok quality. I will do a review on the verreal f1 board very soon. So I'll have to see how good that board works in my next video...
Thanks for the reply, Im all about range, I was thinking of going with the meepo nls with an extra battery for the range and it’s around the same price, but the 2x400watt hub motors kinda stopped me, I want more power I feel than that but still want a considerable range, thanks again for the reply and any other advice would be awesome FYI I’m in the $700 US range
Also for the apsu belt not being adjustable I feel I can live with it, if it gets loose I feel it should be replaced anyway, besides they sell belts for pretty cheap on their site
Wie stark beinflussen die schrauben im board die Stabilität? Ich will nicht in mein 180€ vanguard reinschrauben um dann zu merken das es dann eher riskiert zu brechen. Ist es also schlimm?
Du meist die paar Holz gewindeeinzätze die ich da drin hab? Ja tat mir auch etwas weh ein 180€ board 14 mal zu durchbohren für 6 akku schrauben, 4 vesc case schrauben und 4 stromkabel löcher. Aber das ändert absolut nix an der stabilität. Booted Board hatte teils viel breitete schlitze für ihre kabel und mir ist kein fall bekannt wo das board da entlang abbricht. Die einzigen fälle die auf dem boosted subreddit gesehn hab ist brüche vor der vorderachse durch autos und sachen die drüber fahren.
Also da hätte ich keine sorge :)
Hey im teen and i have a long board, im kinda a tech geek so i think i would be able to build, but does anybody know how many money id need to save up?
you can use recycled cells and cheap "electric skateboard hub motor kit" from aliexpress and a cheap 10S BMS that will get you running with less than 300€. Its not a insanely powerful kit but its still a lot of fun...
Can you make a vid about the antispark switch?
I love my Beamer. Just bought a Boosted Stealth. This man is why I go German engineering.
How much did the project cost roughly? :)
That esk8 is the most complete esk8 I've ever seen congrats
thanks :D
Ho much do you have to spend overall? Excluding 3d printer?
1200€ in materials
I don't get it, boosted chose it's battery to be very power dense but yet you're board makes far more power, do you think their batteries will therefore outlive yours? Also the 2.2kW you stated for boosted is that constant or peak?
Boosted uses LiFePo4 as their battery and could easily outperform my board. If I used the same battery as them I could even increase my power even more. Boosted board limits their boards to a moderate 2.2kW constant power. Meaning you can hop on your board and ride up mount everest with full trottle and the board wont overheat because the ESCs are the limiting factor.
On my board the ESCs are not the limiting factor, I could increase their current quite a bit but that would damage my cells. And I can only push around 2.5kW going up a constant hill anything higher will likely thermal throttle.
On top of that LiFePo4 have insane cycle life. They will last you 5000cycles+ with 80% remaining capacity. That would be 70.000 Kilometers on a Boosted board. They definitly made a good choice with their battery, its reliable, very safe, has great cycle life and has very high energy density and will outlast every other component.
A 100Wh Battery that can produce 2.2kW is otherwise only possible with lipos but they are unsafe, and very unreliable.
I'm very interested in these batteries, I think BYD and CATL uses them too and another big benefit is it uses zero cobalt. Are you able to purchase LiFePo4s online? Do you know what the volumetric energy density is? I know for 18650s and 21700s it can go up to 750Wh/l but you lose about 20% due to packaging because they're cylindrical. Also I assume Boosted lets you go higher than 2.2kW for a few seconds do you know what the peak power is? I'm curious also how high a C rate they can take on charging and thus what kind of regen you can get up to, I definitely should research these batteries a little more. As far as I can tell though the German auto manufacturers are all buying NMC batteries even though they are buying from CATL whose primary product was the LiFePo4 prior. For these manufacturers there is something that is preventing them from going with this chemistry, although it may just be to have only one battery chemistry and as NMC is more common they can also source from LG chem and others.
yes you can buy them online. I get my cells from nkon.nl but thats only really usefull if you live in the eu. The boosted cells are the A123 and they have around 50-60% of the energy density of a li-ion battery.
You can usually charge them with 4C, thats what they claim in the datasheet. So 10 minutes from 5-80% should be possible. But charge time is never my concern on my daily commutes...
And dont even look at german car manufacturers they seriously dont know what they are doing. Look at audi with their terrible battery that gets way to hot and VW is now buying tesla packs because they realized that making a good EV battery is actually difficult and takes time but they were too busy sucking oil companys for the last 10 years.
Wait you're talking about VW buying Tesla batteries for their electrify charging stations? But yeah Tesla just updated the range of their S and X to 370 and 325 EPA miles without upping the pack size. E-tron is rated for 204 miles on EPA cycle. This is just insane, I never expected that huge of a difference and I'm very aware of the Tesla's technology lead.
Your RUclips is everything I am looking for in life!! but! Qidi tech rules!!? 😆😁
haha glad you like it :)
how are those 3d printed gears holding up?
great. When using belts the stress is spread all around the plastic gear, so other then a little wear there is nothing to complain. Have ridden almost 800Km on the same gears before, and 800 more would have propably been possible but they are only like 3€ to print new ones.
What is the best 3D printer for this please
Ultimaker 3 extended? Whats your pricerange. I used a 150$ Anet A8 for a ton of my prints...
With what kind of charger do you charge this beast?
just a really simple 12S 1.5A charger from ali usually, but I have a 400W charger in case I want to fastcharge, but I never need that :)
Love you bro
What are the essential knowledge perquisites for starting this kind of work?
Depends on what you already know and what exactly from this video you want to do yourself. If you know nothing get books about electronics or electrical drives. then google a lot and read a lot...
you need some curiosity and to be ok with getting bored. then youll get there
Nice video! The tvs diod... Whats best for 10s?
you can use the same one or the P6KE56CA which would make 10S even more safe
Welche Reifen hast du benutzt
MBS All terrain 100mm :)