I personally enjoyed how Wille Brown (Joe Seneca) replied to the kid about "Clapton did it with Crossroads and The Rolling Stones did it with Love in Vain." Willie says it would just be another white boy ripping off our music. lol Harsh, but very true. All those fuckers made vast fortunes basically being plagiarists and the real guys that created Blues died poor and in obscurity. People get pissed when I say this, but its true. I love Clapton's music and the Stones, but I also take their tendency to "cover" obscure Blues into account when you look at the tremendous success they enjoyed.
@@valentino3191 Perhaps people get pissed when you say it because of the use of the word plagiarist. Please educate me because I genuinely don't know the history, but how did Clapton and the Stones suppress the success of the creators of Blues? They played the music, helped make it popular as many artists had and have done throughout music's history. The lack of success by the creators was not down to Clapton or any other artist but to societal and industry racism. It is incredibly unfair but I doubt it was down to the artists who helped bring Blues to the masses preventing those creators getting their due. I will agree that Clapton et al. should have credited the creators better (or just at all) and that does enter into plagiarism, but the tone of your post comes across as putting too much emphasis on Clapton, the Stones, Zepplin, etc. for the lack of success of those who created the genre.
@@valentino3191 , as far as I'm aware, Clapton and the Stones were generally pretty good about giving credit where credit was due to the original writers/performers of the music that those bands covered and popularized. Whether any of those blues originators got royalties from Clapton and the Stones et al, is another story. To their credit, the Stones gave exposure to those blues artists still living and insisted on having folks like Howlin Wolf play on British TV. Led Zeppelin, on the other hand, not so much.... If it wasn't for people like Ry Cooder, Bonnie Raitt, Rory Block, John Hammond, Leon Redbone, and Taj Mahal, I probably never would have heard of Fred McDowell, Blind Blake, Mississippi John Hurt, Tampa Red, Blind Willie Johnson, Rev Gary Davis, Joseph Spence, Charley Patton and so on. Cooder used to hand-deliver royalty money to Sleepy John Estes! Sadly, there weren't many white musicians who followed through on that sort of economic justice. Still, the folk/blues revival of the 1960s spurred an interest in their recordings and enabled some of those surviving classic blues men and women to tour Europe, and sometimes even Japan. Sadly, I'm just a bit too young to have experienced much of that, though I did get to see Elizabeth Cotten, Sonny Terry and Brownie McGhee, and a few others.
Top tip from someone who has been soldering since the 1960s: change your soldering iron bit for one with a flat end. Chisel or truncated cone; both are good. They will transfer heat quicker onto flat surfaces like switch terminals and the back of pots. It will allow you to complete the joints quicker and paradoxically, using less total heat transfer, because you are on the joint for less time. A pointy tip is only good for tiny components on small printed circuit boards.
Evening, if its any consolation, I once fitted 4 alternators on a car onthe same day ! as they didn't work. None worked and I thought it was me, took the 4th one back to the shop waiting for some derogatory remark and it turned out a whole batch was sent out wrongly wired. Great videos. Also it doesn't matter about how you say "out" 🤭 at least we know your Canadian. Regards to you and yours Richard 🇬🇧
@@5000rgb sorry have amended, must be the Accent👍🤭. just to say im 60 and have owned several guitars, the last one was a Fender Acoustic, never got around to learning to play as damaged my right hand. But like watching you repair them. Its nice seeing someone who enjoys what he's doing and is good at it. Regards Richard 🇬🇧
+1 for “protuberance”, +1 for “showing an old black man the meaning of the blues. These are the rhetorical moves I subscribed for. Thank you. 9:20 Hear that sustain?
Why? Blind Dog showed Lightning Boy the meaning of the blues. That's literally the point of the film. Not sure why Ted was sarcastic about that and certainly not sure why you weigh in with your virtue signalling BS.
That crossroads bit seriously was perfection lol. And as for the 4 way wiring I really appreciated that you took the time to find a more intuitive order for your customer. I wire my teles with a 4 way switch and most people that use 4 ways do it B, B-N parallel, N, B-N Series which I find really unintuitive. So I always wore them B, B-N Parallel, B-N Series, N. That way all the way down is still the bridge and all the way up is still the neck which is useful for quick changes between the most commonly used positions. But to each his own.
I do a lot of soldering in an electronics environment as part of my job. We don't use 'helping hands' in our workshop. Instead we use small portable drill-press vices. I made my own from softwood just for giggles, but the others use steel vices. The weight helps a lot with stability of the part. Coarse thread on the screw makes them quick to adjust and they can hold anything from a fine tinned copper wire to a large PCB assembly (on edge). The jaws can be replaced with wooden ones or covered in leather to help avoid marking parts. Shrinking heatshrink with a lighter works, but hot air is a better solution. We just use regular heat guns like those you'd use for stripping paint etc (because sometimes we need to shrink large-diameter heavy wall adhesive heatshrink), but a small 'pencil' type would be a good choice for sleeving wiring joins.
These are good suggestions, so thanks a lot. Personally, I use a soldering iron to shrink the wrap, as it's handy after the soldering process. I modified my 'helping hands' with over-sized clips, but the mini- vice/drill stand idea sounds very interesting. I'll try it.
I also do a lot of soldering at work (audio cabling), and we're similar in our practices. We use a panavise for holding connectors or anything fiddly or round, and a standard heatgun for our heatshrink set to 250C. The panavise has plastic jaws so connectors don't get marred, and I pack it with foam if I'm holding something with a delicate finish, such as an anodised connector panel. I've personally always found helping hands to either take too long to set up, or to be too fiddly and bothersome to work around. One suggestion I would make that I think would make things a lot easier is to switch to a chisel or bevel tip on the soldering iron. The added surface area really helps in heat transfer, and allows you to drop your dwell time pretty considerably. Conical tips are best placed for fine pitch work on a circuitboard, though even then I'd personally switch to a small chisel or bevel unless it's SMD work.
@@helloman221 I use a drill press vise a lot for holding things to solder. Also, for about 50 years I've had a really cheap 3" C clamp made from 1/4" by 1/2" wide bar stock that came from some grocery store tool bin. I glued a 1/4" layer of cork to the screw tip, and it is really great for holding XLR jack ends when I'm soldering them. It lays flat on its side on the bench, and I can just push the XLR end into the clamp and pull it back out without squeezing or adjusting anything. I don't do that much these days, but there were times that I had to do 50 or 100 of them in a day. I personally like a 1/16" or 1/18" bevel tip for light loose wire soldering. I've used 6V transformer operated irons for decades. They are much lighter than the the modern temp controlled irons (which I use for PCB work), and generally I find them much easier to use, especially when you need to stand on your head in a box to wire something. I also have an old 100W Sears soldering gun. Greatest thing around for things like soldering to a chassis or the back of a pot. You can get the whole area up to temp and soldered in about 5 seconds, and don't have to spend minutes melting the whole pot and all of it's insides with a puny 35W iron.
@@lwilton Whatever works is what works best! We only use the Panavise because it's a justified expense at work. I usually stuff four XLR connectors or five jacks in there when I'm working on cables, and it really helps in making short work of multi-core cables. I feel your pain at 50-100 XLRs in a day! At home, I've got an off-brand desk clamp vise that I pop on the bench when I'm wiring, it's just a rubber-jawed small vise really and it works brilliantly. I've also got a circuitboard vise - it spins along it's axis so you can pretty quickly stuff a board and flip it over for soldering without throwing your components everywhere. It's exclusively Weller irons at work without temperature control, and all have a 3.2mm chisel tip unless someone's working on a bantam patch bay, when it's worth swapping out to a smaller tip. They're pretty good for when you're at the bench, but definitely rubbish when you're up a ladder or in a box! You have to bring a second ladder along to put the station on, which is pretty frustrating in a room full of contractors. I've got a Chinese ATMEGA based station at home which doesn't seem to struggle with anything I throw at it. The tips, which are Hakko, have the heating element built in, so the thermal transfer is great even on the thinner tips. Haven't managed to cook a pot with it yet, however I haven't tried removing any major heatsinks yet!
Hey, great video, when it comes to cutting down drums it's usually best to remove the extra material from the "resonant" side of the shell rather than the "batter" (striking) side. This is to preserve the original bearing edge on the playing side which is arguably the most crucial element in a drum's overall sound and playing feel. There are many variations on the angle and diameter and shape of the edge which all have drastic impacts on the tuning range, the length of sustain, tone, and attack. It's a fascinating subject and one that more drummers should become familiar with before buying their next kit. Basically the bearing edge is equivalent to the bridge saddles on a guitar, while the bottom/resonant edge would be like the nut... kinda
Well, that was a first for me I was thinking he's gonna have fun cutting the drum down, then the skills of this man just shone through! I learnt something new again today, thank you, sir.
That was scary! Watch how it's really done and you'll realize he had no business doing it. That was not skill at all. I've done this many times and he skipped some MAJOR steps to ensure a proper head to edge fit. He's amazing at guitar work no doubt, but that was a hack job on the drum!
for anyone cringing at that shortened kick drum, don't worry, it probably sounds even better after shortening it - talking from experience here (: short kicks especially with large diameters from 22 to 26" are much easier to tune and easier to get them to sound right - much less low end messiness, shorter sustain (good for recording) - check out john bonham's drum setup, 26 by 14 inches
I was more worried that taking the cut from the playing end of the drum would move the tom holders too close to that end, which it looked like it did to me. I ain't no expert - I play a roland kit ffs lol (KD14 though !), but when I've played acoustic kits, the tom holders are usually either in the center of the top of the shell, or even further forward, but not way back towards the player. Maybe I'm missing something ? Not complaining, just an observation.
I took a couple of pieces left from cutting some toms down and had them made into clocks. Gave one to the customer and kept one for myself. He loved it.
My ear likes the sound of the first filtertron anyway and the Lollar kicks hiney all over the place, (thanks Ry). I like your work and watching you do it ...... thank you.
Once again I feel compelled to offer my thanks for the effort of producing these videos. They are a great help and inspiration to me and many others, and I know they take a lot of time.
I have had pots do that after being heated too long with the iron. Never a cts though. Alpha have been most reliable for me. The ones that can't cope with soldering heat are cheaper stuff like gotoh pots in mij fenders
Where are the modern, reproduction CTS pots manufactured? Probably in China or Asia like everything else. These days, a brand name is just a marketing tool and it doesn't automatically infer a "quality" product. Also, counterfeit parts abound! I've seen counterfeit IC's, CD lasers, MOSFETS and transistors, so why not counterfeit potentiometers?
@@goodun2974 Taiwan. Apparently CTS also has different "tiers" of pots too, maybe some are American-made or something? I actually have a Taiwan-made Sterling bass and it's not half bad, but that can't be said for everything I guess.
I've cut down drums before and I never cut them all the way through... Always leave a 1/32" to keep the whole thing together so you don't throw the thing off kilter while cutting it. that last bit can be cut with a hand saw and that edge gets cleaned up when cutting the bearing edge chamfer. Also cool to see you do something relevant to us drummers who are fans of twoodfrd!!
You think that was unique to Ted? Well, after finding his channel 2 years ago I was so intrigued by his mystique I made a point of going back to his beginnings and found this from 4 years ago Suitcase Drum Kit - ruclips.net/video/Zae0Bu4Ru-o/видео.html No shzz, for real. Damn fine job and lol 😆
As a drummer who does some guitar tech-ing, I can appreciate you crossing over! There's no tom mounting hardware on there though, that's a virgin drum. The hole you pointed to was the air vent grommet. If you do something like this again, I'd recommend cutting the bearing edge on a router table, it'll keep the drum square and you won't have to worry about the router wobbling. Well done though!
I've been finding the same problem with CTS pots lately. Dead on arrival or really wonky values coming out of them. I actually had a 500K pot that worked like a fader, loud in the center and would drop off to nothing when turned either direction. Took me totally by surprise. Seems that quality control is waning for CTS. Alpha pots, on the other hand, seem to be pretty much dead on. Finding 1 in 20 that are DOA. I like your videos. Great to see how someone else takes on the interesting jobs.
The bearing edge of a drum is usually two 45 degree cuts that meet in a peak. E.g. If the drum was 8 ply then maybe 2 ply's on the OD and 6 ply's on the ID like an assymetric roof.
"Usually"? You must be looking at the same kind of drums all the time lol. There's all kinds of ideas on what's best. And each has it's pros and cons. Mapex and Sonor are both very close to the outer edge from factory. Rogers are right in the middle of the plys, and any edge can be changed anyway. No rules regarding edges. Depends on what you are after.
@Steve Fitton Pedantic much? I said "usually" because that implies that most Japanese drums from the era he was working on have 45° edges. I own a set of Rogers Holiday drums from the late 60's and they are asymmetric 45° bearing edges as previously described. I also own a Yamaha Recording Custom from the late 70's/early 80's and they are a rounded 30° edge. Craviotto also do the fully rounded over baseball bat edge. Some other drums may do 60° edges. Did I leave any degrees out, pedant?
If that was a production drum (not a custom shop job), then it probably would have been, but like guitar manufacturers, drum companies keep changing up the available finishes every few years. My guess is the owner wasn't able to get a shorter drum with the same finish.
I commented, and it vanished. If ya see a double post, sorry. Just wanna say thanks for the video, it was good entertainment while I was soldering. Nice playing too Ted. I like the slightly overdriven tone with that guitar. Appreciate you taking the time to make this.
Yup, after two days of searching for the error, i always measure the pots before installing them. I ran into the same problem one day. I know that feeling bro :D
I had one that only malfunctioned when I tightened it down in the guitar. That was a head scratcher. It was 4 push-pulls so a lot of opportunity for things to go wrong.
Yeah, that one is a favourite of mine. (Rest in peace, Harry Dean Stanton). The main theme to Paris Texas was based on Dark was the Night by Blind Willie Johnson, which Ry called "the most transcendent, soulful piece of American music ever". The original recorded version of Dark Was the Night actually went into deep space aboard one of the Voyager spacecraft, alongside of Beethoven and Mozart!
"Crossroads" is one of those movies that you either love or hate, as evinced by the comments below. I've been a Ry Cooder fan for over 40 years and there are definitely better movies for which he has done soundtracks. (BTW, Arlen Roth, no slouch on Tele or bottleneck slide, was Ralph Machio's guitar "coach" for that movie). "Paris Texas" (directed by Wim Wenders) isn't an easy watch but it's a personal favorite (RIP, Harry Dean Stanton). "Southern Comfort" is another that several people have mentioned below. Walter Hills Western "The Long Riders", and "The Border" with Jack Nicholson (featuring the lovely Cooder/Stanton collaboration "The Borderline") are also worth watching. Many of the other movies that Cooder worked on aren't great movies, starting with the Mick Jagger ego-trip "Performance" (BTW, it was Cooder playing slide guitar on the Stone's "Sister Morphine" for those few of you who may not know this), but the soundtracks are often interesting and typically feature long-time Cooder cohorts such as multi-instrumentalist David Lindley, singer/ singwriterJohn Hiatt and drummer Jim Keltner. If I could only keep one Ry Cooder record in my collection it would be a toss up between "Into the Purple Valley" or the live "Showtime" album, although "Paradise and Lunch" and "Get Rhythm" are also worthy contenders. There's tons of good live Ry Cooder concert material to be found on RUclips.
Love the drum fix. WhAt I like about mostly is it involves a musical instrument fix but not the same guitar stuff. That's why i am great full i found your channel. It has a variety of work being done. 👍
That's a shame. The new pickup sounded ace. But yeah customer will just have to buy another one! Wow that drum looks amazing! You should have given us a demo! Great vid as always!
Worked on a recondition of a very old Rogers kit, sparkle red.. had to try and match and repair where at some point the floor tom and snare had Tama hardware, worked out well but the reality is you can only do so much and such repairs will never truly vanish. Still in the end it was great to see the old kit back with all original parts and sounding great.
I have a Tele that came with a filtertron at the neck...I always struggled with it being too dark and overpowering the bridge pickup...I recently dropped a Hi-lotron in and its so nice for a Tele!
First time that I see this Lollar evrsion of the Oahu lap Steel pickup (I'm a huge fan of Ry Cooder). Nice job on the quick drum I'm surprised that a drummer would buy one not knowing what size could give trouble but Hey that gives you a nice opportunity to show your mastercrafting
At 9:20, It might be helpful to make up a shielded guitar chord that plugs into your test amplifier on one end but has alligator clips on the other so that you can test used pickups (or even new ones) before you go through the trouble of installing them into the guitar and wiring them into the controls. BTW, a tuning fork held next to the pickup makes for a pleasanter and more accurate test than just tapping on the pickup. An aluminum tuning fork probably wouldn't work but I used to have one that I think was made of chrome plated brass (?) and that transmitted through the pickup just fine. I haven't seen that thing in years, I wonder where it went to..... probably buried in a pile of my missing brain cells somewhere!
We didn't get much of a listen to the original pickup but what I heard sounded great. Don't mess with things that work. Really enjoy your videos mate.🎸
If you had cut the front of the shell of, you could made it 14”. Another benefit would have been that the vent hole and the badge would have ended up more centered as well. A shell also need a perfect flat and even edge in contact with the head to sound it best and be easy to tune.
It's early in the morning, and then I hear the word "protuberences" ,and my head started spinning ! Never heard that one before ! Nice conversion ! Love your channel !
For anyone who might have occasion to work with, clean/polish or repair a Valco/ Supro/National/Airline lap steel pickup: I dunno about the modern Lollar reproduction pickups, but the original Valco/Supro lap steel pickups have a magnet on each end that is held in place by the same screws that secure the "cover plate" above the strings. If you take that "cover" off for any reason, make note of each magnets' position and orientation, as they're not glued in place and reassembling the pickup with incorrect magnet polarity/ orientation will create string imbalances (differing audio output levels). Been there, done that (oops!). It may take some trial-and-error or perhaps the use of an old fashioned compass to figure out which way the magnets are supposed to be oriented. Also note that the "cover plate" isn't really a cover plate and is part and parcel of generating a good magnetic flux around the strings. These pickups have very high output and excellent string-to-string note definition, even when run through a high-distortion amplifier rig, and yet if you examine one closely, the coil (hidden underneath a sheet metal cover) is surprisingly small and wimpy-looking.
I put a TV Jones Super'tron in the neck of a Thinline B16 Bigsby I made. Really suits the guitar. Very clear and pretty. EDIT: Love the PureTone gold-plated jacks.
There are a number of tricks to avoid prolonged heat exposure to pot cans. Scuffing the surface for the small area to be soldered. Use of a larger higher powered iron so that the bit doesn't lose heat too quickly to the pot body. For untinned metal a suitable active flux. Combine the above with pre-tinning of the can and wires then allows for a quick decisive solder operation which avoids damaging heat spreading all over the part. Re fluxes: I bought some flux specifically for soldering to aluminium. Turned out that it worked well for steel too. TLDR The quicker you can make the solder joint the less likely you are cause damage.
Just one critique. When you cut a bearing edge on a drum, drum builders use a router table so the edge is being cut from the bottom and the shell is flat and even on the table. No tipping or mis cuts. They don't chance it with hand router. It makes it that much harder. But you did a good job.
I've got Pure Tone jacks in all but 1 of my guitars. Getting ready to replace that 1, also. Exactly the same reason(s) why. Mainly because it appears to be very well made and it stops the pops when plugging and unplugging because it doesn't use the barrel to ground the cable to the jack. Since it uses a leg that grounds to the shaft before the tip connects, it stops the annoying pop you usually get from the tip and barrel touching at the same time.
I'm a drummer who's been watching this channel a while and the thrill i felt when that bass drum popped up on screen cannot be described in words. I feel compelled to inform you that the tiny hole on top of the drum is an air vent, and that you would have a hell of a time trying to use it to mount anything. superb modification though. long bass drums sound like trash, you no doubt improved it in more ways than one.
haha that's funny. Noticed that he got that wrong too lol. Since you're a drummer though, I feel compelled to point out that this was not a proper cut down job. Major steps missed! He didn't even level the entire edge after using a table saw to cut it. He just put a new edge on it. He's great on guitars, but if you're considering cutting down a drum, do not use this video! There are plenty of pros out there that will show proper methods. I've done very expensive drums with killer results. It is not as simple as smoothing off rough spots and carving a new angled edge!
🖐🏽😎🎸👍🏽 Absolutely the Best work I've ever seen and with complete understandable explanations. Must different than poor O.C.D. Jerry Rosa. THANK YOU 👏🏽🇺🇸✝️
Again, impeccable work on the drum modification, but I couldn't help thinking about the drummer's choice: "Dude, just buy a shorter kick drum." It reminded me of someone coming in and saying, "This ES-175 is way too thick; can you shave a 2 inches off of the the body." To each his own, I guess. Great videos, though-- keep them coming please!
5:54 when soldering large wires or ground planes it is not just the tip temperature that matters. Thermal mass is your friend. A larger tip will do the job better and more quickly. Unlike other areas of life "size matters".
"The length of a culvert"! 😀 I've been following a guy's channel for a while who loves to unclog culverts (often by removing beaver dams), and in his latest video he'd been to the Niagara Falls and in one shot points the camera at the skyline in the distance and says, "That's Ontario/Canada over there" 😁
Some days you're the windshield, some days you're the bug... That jack socket is impressive. Finally a simple solution to a problem that I've come across many times over the years.
Just got my 1st strat. It will not stay in tune for1 bar. Putting metal and wood together is a huge mistake. The wood and metal will never expand and contract at the same rate. My doors have metal and wood. They leak all the time in the contrast of winter/summer. 3 days later:I straightened the neck with 2 truss rod adjustments. I also loosened the 4 neck screws enough to get the neck to run straight with the strings. I will have tools to adjust the bridge tomorrow to get rid of the buzzing low E string. It seems to want to stay in tune for a whole song now. I will test it for 3 more days to see if it is going to work like it should. I have a feeling that someone got rid of the buzzing string by bowing the neck instead of adjusting the bridge height. I am not paying you for all the training you gave me TWOODY! Update: I replaced the bridge with a SuperVee. 2 hours with everything including a setup/strings. Works great, but I don't know why exactly.
Even in non-strung instrument repair, Ted's wit comes shining through; "it's like having a length of culvert up there"...brilliant...I've often felt similarly over many decades...not focused directly on the kick drum size, but more on the kicker himself. // Your posts are always great...thanks for taking the time.
The out of phase sounded pretty cool. I must say, like smashing a perfectly good guitar, there should be a law against drum circumcision 😄 A real drummer would have straddled it
I started to buy those exact helping hands. I ended up with a square steel base so I could add magnetic accessories & arms later and locks to lock the clips in place that yours doesn't have. Not a week later, I replaced those plastic arms with steel, magnetic arms. It all came from Kotto/F Stop Labs. There's a more expensive version from QuadHands but going by the arm of theirs that I bought & returned, they're lower quality than the Kotto that's half the price of the QuadHands.
Note to the your gang........ Many many years ago, working on a 1977 Strat (Bullet Rod), the Middle pickup was losing volume. When I released the pickguard, I found some other guy used a regular cream color masking tape on the wires running below of that only pickup. And to my surprise way back then, ( I'm also not an electrician guy !! hehe )...... I never thought this kind of tape could short things out !! Lesson learned, to always use 3M plastic tape (no shrinking tubing freely avaliable back then...!!!) Hoping, this insignificant info helps other young guitar luthiers !
I had a brand new Bourns pot fail a couple years ago, the press fit tab came loose from the conductive element, took me forever to figure out, never had one fail like that before
When I was a full time vintage audio repair tech, I sometimes encountered intermittent pots that would still pass signal but introduce distortion that would come and go due to a loose crimp between one of the solder terminals and the conductive carbon tracks on the phenolic wafer. Often these were concentric pots with weird values and tapers, or tapped take-off points, parts that were no longer available, so we would carefully recrimp them or paint that mechanical connection with conductive silver paint. Slider pots on Bang & Olafson equipment often physically came apart inside the control and I would have to dismantle them and glue the feeler/ wiper contacts back in place with epoxy glue.
Good call. In soldering technique, cleanliness is next to godliness! I have found that even newly manufactured pots will often have a greasy residue or some oxidation on the steel shell of the potentiometer. A pencil eraser will work to polish the metal before soldering, or better yet, use a fiberglass- bristle "scratch brush". Those things are awesome and I use them all the time, both at home and at work. The only downside is when you get a tiny little nub of glass fibre stuck in your fingers and you can't easily find it to pluck it out. It will bother you for days before it eventually works itself out, therefore, the use of rubber gloves is recommended.
Best synopsis of Crossroads ever! I love that movie.
Lol. So hilarious
Did I watch the same movie he just described?! I feel confused! I’m having trouble watching this video now, LL.
I personally enjoyed how Wille Brown (Joe Seneca) replied to the kid about "Clapton did it with Crossroads and The Rolling Stones did it with Love in Vain." Willie says it would just be another white boy ripping off our music. lol Harsh, but very true. All those fuckers made vast fortunes basically being plagiarists and the real guys that created Blues died poor and in obscurity. People get pissed when I say this, but its true. I love Clapton's music and the Stones, but I also take their tendency to "cover" obscure Blues into account when you look at the tremendous success they enjoyed.
@@valentino3191 Perhaps people get pissed when you say it because of the use of the word plagiarist. Please educate me because I genuinely don't know the history, but how did Clapton and the Stones suppress the success of the creators of Blues? They played the music, helped make it popular as many artists had and have done throughout music's history. The lack of success by the creators was not down to Clapton or any other artist but to societal and industry racism. It is incredibly unfair but I doubt it was down to the artists who helped bring Blues to the masses preventing those creators getting their due. I will agree that Clapton et al. should have credited the creators better (or just at all) and that does enter into plagiarism, but the tone of your post comes across as putting too much emphasis on Clapton, the Stones, Zepplin, etc. for the lack of success of those who created the genre.
@@valentino3191 , as far as I'm aware, Clapton and the Stones were generally pretty good about giving credit where credit was due to the original writers/performers of the music that those bands covered and popularized. Whether any of those blues originators got royalties from Clapton and the Stones et al, is another story. To their credit, the Stones gave exposure to those blues artists still living and insisted on having folks like Howlin Wolf play on British TV. Led Zeppelin, on the other hand, not so much....
If it wasn't for people like Ry Cooder, Bonnie Raitt, Rory Block, John Hammond, Leon Redbone, and Taj Mahal, I probably never would have heard of Fred McDowell, Blind Blake, Mississippi John Hurt, Tampa Red, Blind Willie Johnson, Rev Gary Davis, Joseph Spence, Charley Patton and so on. Cooder used to hand-deliver royalty money to Sleepy John Estes! Sadly, there weren't many white musicians who followed through on that sort of economic justice. Still, the folk/blues revival of the 1960s spurred an interest in their recordings and enabled some of those surviving classic blues men and women to tour Europe, and sometimes even Japan. Sadly, I'm just a bit too young to have experienced much of that, though I did get to see Elizabeth Cotten, Sonny Terry and Brownie McGhee, and a few others.
I've got a tuba that needs to be a trumpet, table saw here I come!
funny
Pretty much sums it up.
Oompah oompah - BLAT!
Lol...😆
A piccolo trumpet ....😆
Top tip from someone who has been soldering since the 1960s: change your soldering iron bit for one with a flat end. Chisel or truncated cone; both are good. They will transfer heat quicker onto flat surfaces like switch terminals and the back of pots. It will allow you to complete the joints quicker and paradoxically, using less total heat transfer, because you are on the joint for less time. A pointy tip is only good for tiny components on small printed circuit boards.
Also get a flux pen and make a little dab on the joint - the solder will rush onto the back of the pot in no time.
if the parts are clean and you use cored solder there's hardly ever any need for extra flux.
I have to say, I'm disappointed we didn't get to hear him test out the drum! Haha
Bet he does a mean Ina Gadda da Vida...
LOL...the intro is HILARIOUS! Always with a smidge of sarcasm. Good post!!
Evening, if its any consolation, I once fitted 4 alternators on a car onthe same day ! as they didn't work. None worked and I thought it was me, took the 4th one back to the shop waiting for some derogatory remark and it turned out a whole batch was sent out wrongly wired. Great videos. Also it doesn't matter about how you say "out" 🤭 at least we know your Canadian.
Regards to you and yours
Richard 🇬🇧
" I once fitted 4 alternators on a car."
At first, I didn't realize you meant one after the other. I was wondering how much electricity do you use?
@@5000rgb sorry have amended, must be the Accent👍🤭. just to say im 60 and have owned several guitars, the last one was a Fender Acoustic, never got around to learning to play as damaged my right hand. But like watching you repair them. Its nice seeing someone who enjoys what he's doing and is good at it.
Regards Richard 🇬🇧
+1 for “protuberance”, +1 for “showing an old black man the meaning of the blues.
These are the rhetorical moves I subscribed for. Thank you.
9:20 Hear that sustain?
Why? Blind Dog showed Lightning Boy the meaning of the blues. That's literally the point of the film. Not sure why Ted was sarcastic about that and certainly not sure why you weigh in with your virtue signalling BS.
@@fdfsdfsvsfgsg4888 watch the film again; maybe this time with a friend who gets the humor
That crossroads bit seriously was perfection lol. And as for the 4 way wiring I really appreciated that you took the time to find a more intuitive order for your customer. I wire my teles with a 4 way switch and most people that use 4 ways do it B, B-N parallel, N, B-N Series which I find really unintuitive. So I always wore them B, B-N Parallel, B-N Series, N. That way all the way down is still the bridge and all the way up is still the neck which is useful for quick changes between the most commonly used positions. But to each his own.
I do a lot of soldering in an electronics environment as part of my job. We don't use 'helping hands' in our workshop. Instead we use small portable drill-press vices. I made my own from softwood just for giggles, but the others use steel vices. The weight helps a lot with stability of the part. Coarse thread on the screw makes them quick to adjust and they can hold anything from a fine tinned copper wire to a large PCB assembly (on edge). The jaws can be replaced with wooden ones or covered in leather to help avoid marking parts.
Shrinking heatshrink with a lighter works, but hot air is a better solution. We just use regular heat guns like those you'd use for stripping paint etc (because sometimes we need to shrink large-diameter heavy wall adhesive heatshrink), but a small 'pencil' type would be a good choice for sleeving wiring joins.
These are good suggestions, so thanks a lot. Personally, I use a soldering iron to shrink the wrap, as it's handy after the soldering process. I modified my 'helping hands' with over-sized clips, but the mini- vice/drill stand idea sounds very interesting. I'll try it.
Panavise is my vice of choice.
I also do a lot of soldering at work (audio cabling), and we're similar in our practices. We use a panavise for holding connectors or anything fiddly or round, and a standard heatgun for our heatshrink set to 250C. The panavise has plastic jaws so connectors don't get marred, and I pack it with foam if I'm holding something with a delicate finish, such as an anodised connector panel. I've personally always found helping hands to either take too long to set up, or to be too fiddly and bothersome to work around.
One suggestion I would make that I think would make things a lot easier is to switch to a chisel or bevel tip on the soldering iron. The added surface area really helps in heat transfer, and allows you to drop your dwell time pretty considerably. Conical tips are best placed for fine pitch work on a circuitboard, though even then I'd personally switch to a small chisel or bevel unless it's SMD work.
@@helloman221 I use a drill press vise a lot for holding things to solder. Also, for about 50 years I've had a really cheap 3" C clamp made from 1/4" by 1/2" wide bar stock that came from some grocery store tool bin. I glued a 1/4" layer of cork to the screw tip, and it is really great for holding XLR jack ends when I'm soldering them. It lays flat on its side on the bench, and I can just push the XLR end into the clamp and pull it back out without squeezing or adjusting anything. I don't do that much these days, but there were times that I had to do 50 or 100 of them in a day.
I personally like a 1/16" or 1/18" bevel tip for light loose wire soldering. I've used 6V transformer operated irons for decades. They are much lighter than the the modern temp controlled irons (which I use for PCB work), and generally I find them much easier to use, especially when you need to stand on your head in a box to wire something.
I also have an old 100W Sears soldering gun. Greatest thing around for things like soldering to a chassis or the back of a pot. You can get the whole area up to temp and soldered in about 5 seconds, and don't have to spend minutes melting the whole pot and all of it's insides with a puny 35W iron.
@@lwilton Whatever works is what works best! We only use the Panavise because it's a justified expense at work. I usually stuff four XLR connectors or five jacks in there when I'm working on cables, and it really helps in making short work of multi-core cables. I feel your pain at 50-100 XLRs in a day! At home, I've got an off-brand desk clamp vise that I pop on the bench when I'm wiring, it's just a rubber-jawed small vise really and it works brilliantly. I've also got a circuitboard vise - it spins along it's axis so you can pretty quickly stuff a board and flip it over for soldering without throwing your components everywhere.
It's exclusively Weller irons at work without temperature control, and all have a 3.2mm chisel tip unless someone's working on a bantam patch bay, when it's worth swapping out to a smaller tip. They're pretty good for when you're at the bench, but definitely rubbish when you're up a ladder or in a box! You have to bring a second ladder along to put the station on, which is pretty frustrating in a room full of contractors.
I've got a Chinese ATMEGA based station at home which doesn't seem to struggle with anything I throw at it. The tips, which are Hakko, have the heating element built in, so the thermal transfer is great even on the thinner tips. Haven't managed to cook a pot with it yet, however I haven't tried removing any major heatsinks yet!
Hey, great video, when it comes to cutting down drums it's usually best to remove the extra material from the "resonant" side of the shell rather than the "batter" (striking) side. This is to preserve the original bearing edge on the playing side which is arguably the most crucial element in a drum's overall sound and playing feel. There are many variations on the angle and diameter and shape of the edge which all have drastic impacts on the tuning range, the length of sustain, tone, and attack. It's a fascinating subject and one that more drummers should become familiar with before buying their next kit. Basically the bearing edge is equivalent to the bridge saddles on a guitar, while the bottom/resonant edge would be like the nut... kinda
Well, that was a first for me I was thinking he's gonna have fun cutting the drum down, then the skills of this man just shone through! I learnt something new again today, thank you, sir.
That was scary! Watch how it's really done and you'll realize he had no business doing it. That was not skill at all. I've done this many times and he skipped some MAJOR steps to ensure a proper head to edge fit. He's amazing at guitar work no doubt, but that was a hack job on the drum!
The sound with the two pickups out of phase on the "Coodercaster" === GOLDEN! Sounds GREAT!
Next episode, we convert the bass into a banjosaurus
for anyone cringing at that shortened kick drum, don't worry, it probably sounds even better after shortening it - talking from experience here (:
short kicks especially with large diameters from 22 to 26" are much easier to tune and easier to get them to sound right - much less low end messiness, shorter sustain (good for recording) - check out john bonham's drum setup, 26 by 14 inches
I was more worried that taking the cut from the playing end of the drum would move the tom holders too close to that end, which it looked like it did to me. I ain't no expert - I play a roland kit ffs lol (KD14 though !), but when I've played acoustic kits, the tom holders are usually either in the center of the top of the shell, or even further forward, but not way back towards the player. Maybe I'm missing something ? Not complaining, just an observation.
@@mordokch its a air hole not a hardware holder...pretty sure diddn't get a great look
That sustain is unreal, wow
This guy's beyond amazing.
the cut out of that kickdrum should be repurposed as a gong drum, basically a huge single head floor tom
Or a bodhran!
or a YAYBAHAR!
"Lucrative and Glamours world of drum repair." Fantastic!
I particularly like the transformation with that drum! Would love to have that cut-off part to make a bodhran.
I took a couple of pieces left from cutting some toms down and had them made into clocks. Gave one to the customer and kept one for myself. He loved it.
I'm not gonna lie I really want a Coodercaster now! Great job on that drum!
My ear likes the sound of the first filtertron anyway and the Lollar kicks hiney all over the place, (thanks Ry). I like your work and watching you do it ...... thank you.
Once again I feel compelled to offer my thanks for the effort of producing these videos.
They are a great help and inspiration to me and many others, and I know they take a lot of time.
I have had pots do that after being heated too long with the iron. Never a cts though. Alpha have been most reliable for me. The ones that can't cope with soldering heat are cheaper stuff like gotoh pots in mij fenders
I LOVE the multi-contact jacks. I started using them a few years ago and I will never use anything else again. Thanks for the great video.
I’ve never received a bad CTS pot. One in a million I’m sure.
Holy cow that bass drum is *HUGE* !
oh god. I installed a CTS pot into an LP of mine that only turns like 3/4 the way. It's really annoying cause I'm just too lazy to fix it. lol
Where are the modern, reproduction CTS pots manufactured? Probably in China or Asia like everything else. These days, a brand name is just a marketing tool and it doesn't automatically infer a "quality" product. Also, counterfeit parts abound! I've seen counterfeit IC's, CD lasers, MOSFETS and transistors, so why not counterfeit potentiometers?
@@goodun2974 Taiwan. Apparently CTS also has different "tiers" of pots too, maybe some are American-made or something? I actually have a Taiwan-made Sterling bass and it's not half bad, but that can't be said for everything I guess.
Nice Coodercaster. Pickup notwithstanding. Smoof. I like the little knurled selector switch.
The culvert analogy was hilarious. That took some cool hands on the table saw, well done.
Always good. Thanks for sharing your working process.
I've cut down drums before and I never cut them all the way through... Always leave a 1/32" to keep the whole thing together so you don't throw the thing off kilter while cutting it. that last bit can be cut with a hand saw and that edge gets cleaned up when cutting the bearing edge chamfer.
Also cool to see you do something relevant to us drummers who are fans of twoodfrd!!
You think that was unique to Ted? Well, after finding his channel 2 years ago I was so intrigued by his mystique I made a point of going back to his beginnings and found this from 4 years ago
Suitcase Drum Kit - ruclips.net/video/Zae0Bu4Ru-o/видео.html
No shzz, for real. Damn fine job and lol 😆
I love your synopsis of Crossroads. lmao
good man, cheers Mister!
Your videos are incredibly therapeutic. Your disposition is comforting. Thank you!
As a drummer who does some guitar tech-ing, I can appreciate you crossing over! There's no tom mounting hardware on there though, that's a virgin drum. The hole you pointed to was the air vent grommet. If you do something like this again, I'd recommend cutting the bearing edge on a router table, it'll keep the drum square and you won't have to worry about the router wobbling. Well done though!
I've been finding the same problem with CTS pots lately. Dead on arrival or really wonky values coming out of them. I actually had a 500K pot that worked like a fader, loud in the center and would drop off to nothing when turned either direction. Took me totally by surprise. Seems that quality control is waning for CTS. Alpha pots, on the other hand, seem to be pretty much dead on. Finding 1 in 20 that are DOA.
I like your videos. Great to see how someone else takes on the interesting jobs.
The bearing edge of a drum is usually two 45 degree cuts that meet in a peak. E.g. If the drum was 8 ply then maybe 2 ply's on the OD and 6 ply's on the ID like an assymetric roof.
This one was bearing right on the very outer ply. Interesting.
"Usually"? You must be looking at the same kind of drums all the time lol. There's all kinds of ideas on what's best. And each has it's pros and cons. Mapex and Sonor are both very close to the outer edge from factory. Rogers are right in the middle of the plys, and any edge can be changed anyway. No rules regarding edges. Depends on what you are after.
@Steve Fitton Pedantic much? I said "usually" because that implies that most Japanese drums from the era he was working on have 45° edges. I own a set of Rogers Holiday drums from the late 60's and they are asymmetric 45° bearing edges as previously described. I also own a Yamaha Recording Custom from the late 70's/early 80's and they are a rounded 30° edge. Craviotto also do the fully rounded over baseball bat edge. Some other drums may do 60° edges. Did I leave any degrees out, pedant?
How is it not cheaper to buy a correct drum the size he wants? Still, you did a great job!
If that was a production drum (not a custom shop job), then it probably would have been, but like guitar manufacturers, drum companies keep changing up the available finishes every few years. My guess is the owner wasn't able to get a shorter drum with the same finish.
Love your description of the Crossroads film! 😂😂
I commented, and it vanished. If ya see a double post, sorry. Just wanna say thanks for the video, it was good entertainment while I was soldering. Nice playing too Ted. I like the slightly overdriven tone with that guitar. Appreciate you taking the time to make this.
Yup, after two days of searching for the error, i always measure the pots before installing them. I ran into the same problem one day. I know that feeling bro :D
I had one that only malfunctioned when I tightened it down in the guitar. That was a head scratcher. It was 4 push-pulls so a lot of opportunity for things to go wrong.
Damn that Tele is a sexy beast. The mahogany Thinline, stunning.
Really reminds me of an old Classic Vibe Thinline that I own.
That filter-tron sounds awesome
Thanks for showing some of your very neat soldering practices. Much appreciated!
Don't forget the soundtrack for Paris Tx
Now I need to go listen to
She’s Leaving The Bank again.
Yeah, that one is a favourite of mine. (Rest in peace, Harry Dean Stanton). The main theme to Paris Texas was based on Dark was the Night by Blind Willie Johnson, which Ry called "the most transcendent, soulful piece of American music ever". The original recorded version of Dark Was the Night actually went into deep space aboard one of the Voyager spacecraft, alongside of Beethoven and Mozart!
And "The Long Riders."
"Crossroads" is one of those movies that you either love or hate, as evinced by the comments below. I've been a Ry Cooder fan for over 40 years and there are definitely better movies for which he has done soundtracks. (BTW, Arlen Roth, no slouch on Tele or bottleneck slide, was Ralph Machio's guitar "coach" for that movie). "Paris Texas" (directed by Wim Wenders) isn't an easy watch but it's a personal favorite (RIP, Harry Dean Stanton). "Southern Comfort" is another that several people have mentioned below. Walter Hills Western "The Long Riders", and "The Border" with Jack Nicholson (featuring the lovely Cooder/Stanton collaboration "The Borderline") are also worth watching. Many of the other movies that Cooder worked on aren't great movies, starting with the Mick Jagger ego-trip "Performance" (BTW, it was Cooder playing slide guitar on the Stone's "Sister Morphine" for those few of you who may not know this), but the soundtracks are often interesting and typically feature long-time Cooder cohorts such as multi-instrumentalist David Lindley, singer/ singwriterJohn Hiatt and drummer Jim Keltner.
If I could only keep one Ry Cooder record in my collection it would be a toss up between "Into the Purple Valley" or the live "Showtime" album, although "Paradise and Lunch" and "Get Rhythm" are also worthy contenders. There's tons of good live Ry Cooder concert material to be found on RUclips.
Love the drum fix. WhAt I like about mostly is it involves a musical instrument fix but not the same guitar stuff. That's why i am great full i found your channel. It has a variety of work being done. 👍
That's a shame. The new pickup sounded ace. But yeah customer will just have to buy another one! Wow that drum looks amazing! You should have given us a demo! Great vid as always!
Worked on a recondition of a very old Rogers kit, sparkle red.. had to try and match and repair where at some point the floor tom and snare had Tama hardware, worked out well but the reality is you can only do so much and such repairs will never truly vanish. Still in the end it was great to see the old kit back with all original parts and sounding great.
Um, we never heard it.
I have a Tele that came with a filtertron at the neck...I always struggled with it being too dark and overpowering the bridge pickup...I recently dropped a Hi-lotron in and its so nice for a Tele!
ruclips.net/video/cwH-nRSxb94/видео.html
Here it is
First time that I see this Lollar evrsion of the Oahu lap Steel pickup (I'm a huge fan of Ry Cooder). Nice job on the quick drum I'm surprised that a drummer would buy one not knowing what size could give trouble but Hey that gives you a nice opportunity to show your mastercrafting
Yay another great instalment to watch on Sunday morning here in the UK. I no longer read the Sunday papers.
Another great video. Thank you for sharing.
At 9:20, It might be helpful to make up a shielded guitar chord that plugs into your test amplifier on one end but has alligator clips on the other so that you can test used pickups (or even new ones) before you go through the trouble of installing them into the guitar and wiring them into the controls. BTW, a tuning fork held next to the pickup makes for a pleasanter and more accurate test than just tapping on the pickup. An aluminum tuning fork probably wouldn't work but I used to have one that I think was made of chrome plated brass (?) and that transmitted through the pickup just fine. I haven't seen that thing in years, I wonder where it went to..... probably buried in a pile of my missing brain cells somewhere!
Lol that crossroads synopsis. Haha
You are more daring than I thought!
Beautiful caster
As usual, I am amazed at the depth and breadth of the skill and talent. Thanks Ted.
I love how you always tell us that a tuning is unfamiliar to you ( or even when you did the lefty! ) as you play a perfect awesome little jam for us
Wow I just love your comments about what you do and totally 💯 enjoy the stuff that you’re able to do not to mention what you run into, totally cool!
A two-fer from Twoodfrd!
Man. That Lollar just rings!
Great pickups and a really nice guy.
We didn't get much of a listen to the original pickup but what I heard sounded great.
Don't mess with things that work. Really enjoy your videos mate.🎸
If you had cut the front of the shell of, you could made it 14”. Another benefit would have been that the vent hole and the badge would have ended up more centered as well.
A shell also need a perfect flat and even edge in contact with the head to sound it best and be easy to tune.
It's early in the morning, and then I hear the word "protuberences" ,and my head started spinning ! Never heard that one before ! Nice conversion ! Love your channel !
Honestly, I dunno if those puretone jacks are more durable but by they feel so much more solid, and they're cheap!
For anyone who might have occasion to work with, clean/polish or repair a Valco/ Supro/National/Airline lap steel pickup: I dunno about the modern Lollar reproduction pickups, but the original Valco/Supro lap steel pickups have a magnet on each end that is held in place by the same screws that secure the "cover plate" above the strings. If you take that "cover" off for any reason, make note of each magnets' position and orientation, as they're not glued in place and reassembling the pickup with incorrect magnet polarity/ orientation will create string imbalances (differing audio output levels). Been there, done that (oops!). It may take some trial-and-error or perhaps the use of an old fashioned compass to figure out which way the magnets are supposed to be oriented. Also note that the "cover plate" isn't really a cover plate and is part and parcel of generating a good magnetic flux around the strings. These pickups have very high output and excellent string-to-string note definition, even when run through a high-distortion amplifier rig, and yet if you examine one closely, the coil (hidden underneath a sheet metal cover) is surprisingly small and wimpy-looking.
Love your description of "The Guitar Kid".
I put a TV Jones Super'tron in the neck of a Thinline B16 Bigsby I made. Really suits the guitar. Very clear and pretty. EDIT: Love the PureTone gold-plated jacks.
There are a number of tricks to avoid prolonged heat exposure to pot cans.
Scuffing the surface for the small area to be soldered.
Use of a larger higher powered iron so that the bit doesn't lose heat too quickly to the pot body.
For untinned metal a suitable active flux.
Combine the above with pre-tinning of the can and wires then allows for a quick decisive solder operation which avoids damaging heat spreading all over the part.
Re fluxes: I bought some flux specifically for soldering to aluminium. Turned out that it worked well for steel too.
TLDR The quicker you can make the solder joint the less likely you are cause damage.
Just one critique. When you cut a bearing edge on a drum, drum builders use a router table so the edge is being cut from the bottom and the shell is flat and even on the table. No tipping or mis cuts. They don't chance it with hand router. It makes it that much harder. But you did a good job.
I've got Pure Tone jacks in all but 1 of my guitars. Getting ready to replace that 1, also. Exactly the same reason(s) why. Mainly because it appears to be very well made and it stops the pops when plugging and unplugging because it doesn't use the barrel to ground the cable to the jack. Since it uses a leg that grounds to the shaft before the tip connects, it stops the annoying pop you usually get from the tip and barrel touching at the same time.
Love your synopsis of the movie!!
Endlessly entertaining and enlightening. Cheers to you!
I'm a drummer who's been watching this channel a while and the thrill i felt when that bass drum popped up on screen cannot be described in words. I feel compelled to inform you that the tiny hole on top of the drum is an air vent, and that you would have a hell of a time trying to use it to mount anything. superb modification though. long bass drums sound like trash, you no doubt improved it in more ways than one.
haha that's funny. Noticed that he got that wrong too lol. Since you're a drummer though, I feel compelled to point out that this was not a proper cut down job. Major steps missed! He didn't even level the entire edge after using a table saw to cut it. He just put a new edge on it. He's great on guitars, but if you're considering cutting down a drum, do not use this video! There are plenty of pros out there that will show proper methods. I've done very expensive drums with killer results. It is not as simple as smoothing off rough spots and carving a new angled edge!
🖐🏽😎🎸👍🏽 Absolutely the Best work I've ever seen and with complete understandable explanations. Must different than poor O.C.D. Jerry Rosa. THANK YOU 👏🏽🇺🇸✝️
Again, impeccable work on the drum modification, but I couldn't help thinking about the drummer's choice: "Dude, just buy a shorter kick drum." It reminded me of someone coming in and saying, "This ES-175 is way too thick; can you shave a 2 inches off of the the body." To each his own, I guess. Great videos, though-- keep them coming please!
5:54 when soldering large wires or ground planes it is not just the tip temperature that matters. Thermal mass is your friend. A larger tip will do the job better and more quickly. Unlike other areas of life "size matters".
Aww, no demo of the boom-boom. Before: boooommm. After: booom ;-)
"The length of a culvert"! 😀 I've been following a guy's channel for a while who loves to unclog culverts (often by removing beaver dams), and in his latest video he'd been to the Niagara Falls and in one shot points the camera at the skyline in the distance and says, "That's Ontario/Canada over there" 😁
Some days you're the windshield, some days you're the bug... That jack socket is impressive. Finally a simple solution to a problem that I've come across many times over the years.
That's a beautiful mahogany Tele. Shame it had to be dug into to accommodate that new bridge pup.
Just got my 1st strat. It will not stay in tune for1 bar. Putting metal and wood together is a huge mistake. The wood and metal will never expand and contract at the same rate. My doors have metal and wood. They leak all the time in the contrast of winter/summer.
3 days later:I straightened the neck with 2 truss rod adjustments. I also loosened the 4 neck screws enough to get the neck to run straight with the strings. I will have tools to adjust the bridge tomorrow to get rid of the buzzing low E string.
It seems to want to stay in tune for a whole song now. I will test it for 3 more days to see if it is going to work like it should.
I have a feeling that someone got rid of the buzzing string by bowing the neck instead of adjusting the bridge height.
I am not paying you for all the training you gave me TWOODY!
Update: I replaced the bridge with a SuperVee. 2 hours with everything including a setup/strings. Works great, but I don't know why exactly.
Very nice précis of Crossroads. I laughed and laughed I gotta tell ya
Very interesting guitar, very very interesting.
Wow! Drums too!!
Great video with a warning ,,,, the drum was truly unexpected !!!!!
Great to see a bit if a vranch out !!!
I thought Ry Cooder preferred "top loader" Telecasters, not string through body. Hell of an effort! Thanks for this!
Even in non-strung instrument repair, Ted's wit comes shining through; "it's like having a length of culvert up there"...brilliant...I've often felt similarly over many decades...not focused directly on the kick drum size, but more on the kicker himself. // Your posts are always great...thanks for taking the time.
Great video. I enjoy your work. Learning from a master, via RUclips U.
Those pure tone multi-contact jacks are awesome!! I have them in ALL my guitars... they make em in gold plate too....
The out of phase sounded pretty cool.
I must say, like smashing a perfectly good guitar, there should be a law against drum circumcision 😄
A real drummer would have straddled it
I agree.I think its just interfering with nature. lol
Thanks great video filming and editing!
I started to buy those exact helping hands. I ended up with a square steel base so I could add magnetic accessories & arms later and locks to lock the clips in place that yours doesn't have.
Not a week later, I replaced those plastic arms with steel, magnetic arms. It all came from Kotto/F Stop Labs. There's a more expensive version from QuadHands but going by the arm of theirs that I bought & returned, they're lower quality than the Kotto that's half the price of the QuadHands.
A difference in ground potential within the pickup
Note to the your gang........
Many many years ago, working on a 1977 Strat (Bullet Rod), the Middle pickup was
losing volume. When I released the pickguard, I found some other guy used a regular cream color masking tape on the wires running below of that only pickup.
And to my surprise way back then, ( I'm also not an electrician guy !! hehe )...... I never thought this kind of tape could short things out !!
Lesson learned, to always use 3M plastic tape (no shrinking tubing freely avaliable back then...!!!)
Hoping, this insignificant info helps other young guitar luthiers !
great job! can't wait to see the next project.
I had a brand new Bourns pot fail a couple years ago, the press fit tab came loose from
the conductive element, took me forever to figure out, never had one fail like that before
When I was a full time vintage audio repair tech, I sometimes encountered intermittent pots that would still pass signal but introduce distortion that would come and go due to a loose crimp between one of the solder terminals and the conductive carbon tracks on the phenolic wafer. Often these were concentric pots with weird values and tapers, or tapped take-off points, parts that were no longer available, so we would carefully recrimp them or paint that mechanical connection with conductive silver paint. Slider pots on Bang & Olafson equipment often physically came apart inside the control and I would have to dismantle them and glue the feeler/ wiper contacts back in place with epoxy glue.
You're description of crossroads had me rolling 😂
You’re a master at your craft sir. Great video!
I've found that scratching the coating off in the center area of the pot makes for better contact and easier soldering.
Good call. In soldering technique, cleanliness is next to godliness! I have found that even newly manufactured pots will often have a greasy residue or some oxidation on the steel shell of the potentiometer. A pencil eraser will work to polish the metal before soldering, or better yet, use a fiberglass- bristle "scratch brush". Those things are awesome and I use them all the time, both at home and at work. The only downside is when you get a tiny little nub of glass fibre stuck in your fingers and you can't easily find it to pluck it out. It will bother you for days before it eventually works itself out, therefore, the use of rubber gloves is recommended.
You really need to make bass banjo from that ring from bass barrel ))))
Great tone!🎵