I'd be very interested in seeing the pre-assembled tree style in more detail! Definitely have some inquiries regarding the supports required and the amount of time they take to remove!
2 ways to improve bed adhesion. 1) sand your wham bam plate (or get it blasted) 2) grip spray paint - rustolium make one. 2 thin coats - works best with water washable resin
@clearmindjewellery hey your content is so helpful thanks for a lot of information that you are sharing, im new to 3d printing and i work in jewellery field, was wondering how are you making that square mesh that supports the entire prints? thanks in advance
Nice video. Interesting. I don't have a resin printer but for the multilevel part stacks, instead of having the second, third, etc shelf parallel to the base, if it was tilted slightly would that help as it would reduce the cross section of the print adhering to the screen so it is less than the part which is stuck to the mounting plate? I'm thinking that getting a smaller resin printer and then making moulds for wax injection might be better. OK you can get on with other stuff at the same time it's printing, there's the extra expense of the moulds and the injector but once the master and mould have been made, the injection wax will be cheaper than the resin and unused casts can be remelted so on going costs would be cheaper (depending on how many you can do in a specific time).
Great video, can you please do a video about how to make the tree? do you do it in a slicer or in a 3D program? do you need to support it and if so, how do you remove them? thank you in advance!
As we mentioned in the video we made the tree in Shapr3D. You will need to print the tree with some supports although if your models are simpler and you know your printer well you can get away with a minimal amount. We will probably be doing a follow up video going into better detail about that last method.
As far as the programs crashing on large files you need to compress them first in a program such as Zbrush using decimation master (easiest to use) or you can use a (free program) such as Meshmixer. I know in Zbrush I go down to 25% the size of the file before sending a large print to PreForm from formlabs or else it will crash. Hope that helps
This is great content, when you print pre-assembled with ore complex pieces compared to a ring are there any best practices? Do you use a 100% infill for the full sprue and attachments or is there a strong partial infill pattern for more efficient resin use?
It looks like you can just get the sprue ones and have a couple of them next to each other. It should take the same amount of printing time. Like you said. :) Any way, i think the sprue print is great for prototyping. Ive seen guys trying to make gun parts on a CNC machine, while the original part was a cast part. So i told them about fluid 3D printing, and that having a muffler oven or some kind of induction oven that can do steel melting temperatures is the way to go if you combine it with vacuum investment casting in plaster. It should give great results. The M16 trigger parts are of steel for example, its cast steel. Ruger makes a lot of cast steel parts. While i like jewelry, i may actually get into making rings too. I think there should be a market for silver rings and jewelry. Especially if its a personalized piece. You channel should get a lot more views, especially because of the great information you are bringing on this new type of production of metal products and jewelry. Greetings, Jeff
We are probably going to do another follow up video on this, a full how too. Would recommend joining us over on instagram as we had the whole process in our stories this past week. instagram.com/clearmindcasting/
Thank you, my friend, for this beautiful advice, which made the ideas in my head accelerate in order to implement and produce this beautiful tree But I have a question. I have a Halot Sky printer and I wanted to know the name of the program that you used to design and print this tree.
The problem with adhesive is simple - you can't use more than 80% of build plate in one go. For this design leave around 1.5-2 cm border on build plate and you probably will have successful prints. Maybe try even 2.5cm. Then find nfep film if exist for those sizes.
Also, did I miss a video or did you print the tree lying down with supports or did you manage to have all the geometries so that there were no supports needed and printed it upright in your new Jupiter for 40 hours?
I believe it was mentioned in the video, but we will be doing a follow up just about the printed tree method. It was printed upright with minimal supports.
Yes we have had successful casts using pre-spru'd technique. The resin is going to be based off of personal preference and model type. We have been using Apply Lab Work Cyan with great success.
@@ClearMindJewellery I might use the rest of my X-One for that (the 500g are gone fast), or my new PowerResins DARK. Apply Lab Work-intersting! I will take a look at their resins and reviews now.
Is the tree casteble? I can imagine some problems with casting. I quit using casteble resin because of the cracks and hole it leaves most times. I use regular wax but that makes making the models harder. Nothing seems to guarantee the highest quality, unless somebody has a golden tip for making models :)
Due to cost all the models in the video are specifically non-castable, as they were samples. But we have done completely castable trees with great success and will be doing a "how-to" video on how to set it up in software and casting etc. We do majority castable resin in our studio, especially for smaller batch items (where making a mold isn't cost effective). If you are having a hard time with it would definitely recommend looking through our other videos on castable resin.
In this video no. I believe we explained somewhere that due to the amount of prints and tests we were doing for this video in order to keep cost down we went for a regular resin. Other videos we've shown this technique in castable resin ruclips.net/video/bY9kEBGji8Q/видео.html
@@creationlabsinc.189 You're funny. Considering my advice is simply to help increase the quality of their videos, your advice on the other hand, is quite laughable and non-constructive. Thanks for your input.
I LOVE the idea of printing the tree!
Yees me too
I'd be very interested in seeing the pre-assembled tree style in more detail! Definitely have some inquiries regarding the supports required and the amount of time they take to remove!
You just opened my eyes on so many questions I had. Thank you so much.
I'm so glad!
Genius idea. I've tree'd thousands of models. Awesome thanks 👍
2 ways to improve bed adhesion. 1) sand your wham bam plate (or get it blasted) 2) grip spray paint - rustolium make one. 2 thin coats - works best with water washable resin
@clearmindjewellery hey your content is so helpful thanks for a lot of information that you are sharing, im new to 3d printing and i work in jewellery field, was wondering how are you making that square mesh that supports the entire prints? thanks in advance
Nice video. Interesting.
I don't have a resin printer but for the multilevel part stacks, instead of having the second, third, etc shelf parallel to the base, if it was tilted slightly would that help as it would reduce the cross section of the print adhering to the screen so it is less than the part which is stuck to the mounting plate?
I'm thinking that getting a smaller resin printer and then making moulds for wax injection might be better. OK you can get on with other stuff at the same time it's printing, there's the extra expense of the moulds and the injector but once the master and mould have been made, the injection wax will be cheaper than the resin and unused casts can be remelted so on going costs would be cheaper (depending on how many you can do in a specific time).
Great video, can you please do a video about how to make the tree? do you do it in a slicer or in a 3D program? do you need to support it and if so, how do you remove them? thank you in advance!
As we mentioned in the video we made the tree in Shapr3D. You will need to print the tree with some supports although if your models are simpler and you know your printer well you can get away with a minimal amount.
We will probably be doing a follow up video going into better detail about that last method.
@@ClearMindJewellery thank you
As far as the programs crashing on large files you need to compress them first in a program such as Zbrush using decimation master (easiest to use) or you can use a (free program) such as Meshmixer. I know in Zbrush I go down to 25% the size of the file before sending a large print to PreForm from formlabs or else it will crash. Hope that helps
For bed adhesion have you ever resurfaced it with steel wool?
Excellent video, thank you
Glad you liked it!
This is great content, when you print pre-assembled with ore complex pieces compared to a ring are there any best practices?
Do you use a 100% infill for the full sprue and attachments or is there a strong partial infill pattern for more efficient resin use?
It looks like you can just get the sprue ones and have a couple of them next to each other. It should take the same amount of printing time. Like you said. :)
Any way, i think the sprue print is great for prototyping. Ive seen guys trying to make gun parts on a CNC machine, while the original part was a cast part. So i told them about fluid 3D printing, and that having a muffler oven or some kind of induction oven that can do steel melting temperatures is the way to go if you combine it with vacuum investment casting in plaster. It should give great results. The M16 trigger parts are of steel for example, its cast steel. Ruger makes a lot of cast steel parts.
While i like jewelry, i may actually get into making rings too. I think there should be a market for silver rings and jewelry. Especially if its a personalized piece.
You channel should get a lot more views, especially because of the great information you are bringing on this new type of production of metal products and jewelry.
Greetings,
Jeff
Do you have any video of pictures of the tree print with supports. How did you remove them?
We are probably going to do another follow up video on this, a full how too.
Would recommend joining us over on instagram as we had the whole process in our stories this past week. instagram.com/clearmindcasting/
Thank you, my friend, for this beautiful advice, which made the ideas in my head accelerate in order to implement and produce this beautiful tree
But I have a question. I have a Halot Sky printer and I wanted to know the name of the program that you used to design and print this tree.
Shapr3D. We will be working on making further videos to explain, this was more an overview of the diffrent techniques.
It's amazing 😍 simple amazing...
Thank you so much 😀
What program you used for the tree
As per the video, Shapr3D.
The problem with adhesive is simple - you can't use more than 80% of build plate in one go. For this design leave around 1.5-2 cm border on build plate and you probably will have successful prints. Maybe try even 2.5cm. Then find nfep film if exist for those sizes.
Also, did I miss a video or did you print the tree lying down with supports or did you manage to have all the geometries so that there were no supports needed and printed it upright in your new Jupiter for 40 hours?
I believe it was mentioned in the video, but we will be doing a follow up just about the printed tree method. It was printed upright with minimal supports.
@@ClearMindJewellery Thanks for the quick reply. Yes. Great idea!
Do you lose definition when printing so many in one print ? Or are they rings that don’t have allot of definition ?
The quality doesn't change. We've printed full trees with several different model designs.
Amazing
And did you burn out the tree successfully? Which castable resin would you use for this?
Yes we have had successful casts using pre-spru'd technique. The resin is going to be based off of personal preference and model type. We have been using Apply Lab Work Cyan with great success.
@@ClearMindJewellery I might use the rest of my X-One for that (the 500g are gone fast), or my new PowerResins DARK. Apply Lab Work-intersting! I will take a look at their resins and reviews now.
Nice, thanks for the tips, btw how long did it take to print this tree?
Is the tree casteble? I can imagine some problems with casting. I quit using casteble resin because of the cracks and hole it leaves most times. I use regular wax but that makes making the models harder. Nothing seems to guarantee the highest quality, unless somebody has a golden tip for making models :)
Due to cost all the models in the video are specifically non-castable, as they were samples. But we have done completely castable trees with great success and will be doing a "how-to" video on how to set it up in software and casting etc.
We do majority castable resin in our studio, especially for smaller batch items (where making a mold isn't cost effective). If you are having a hard time with it would definitely recommend looking through our other videos on castable resin.
Is it casting resin?
In this video no. I believe we explained somewhere that due to the amount of prints and tests we were doing for this video in order to keep cost down we went for a regular resin.
Other videos we've shown this technique in castable resin ruclips.net/video/bY9kEBGji8Q/видео.html
How much is the printer ?
About $1,300 www.elegoo.com/collections/3d-printing/products/elegoo-jupiter-resin-3d-printer-6k-mono-msla-3d-printer
Great video! Use manual focus on your camera before recording, the auto focusing is a bit annoying.
Worry about your own channel Mr. OCD
@@creationlabsinc.189 You're funny. Considering my advice is simply to help increase the quality of their videos, your advice on the other hand, is quite laughable and non-constructive. Thanks for your input.
JUST buy Projet 2500 and forged that nonsense ! 😂
Hand movement….this guy needs more hands movement
Oh and man bunning….more views of the man bun-sorry about your male pattern baldness…
I bet he thinks he is punk rock with earrings in both ears..