New paint My diamond plate gets a nice diamond plate pieces on there. Get that puppy painted zebra diamond plate on there. Make that poppy look real nice.
Dear J.C. Smith projects family 👍👌👏 I'm eagerly looking forward to watch the next part. I'm currently watching older videos because I simply love to watch your stuff (no new content for me to watch is left). Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing. Best regards luck and health.
oh doug i was hoping this wasnt going to be a "series" but it sure is looking like it is turning into that. i am struggling with leaving the rusty frame, i want it to be 84" cab to center of axle and i really want to replace the fuel tanks. those are just the things i am thinking about now! i am sure there will be more!
Winters coming, and you've got a lot stacked at the moment, You might be better off to go with the first if it's a temporary dump you need and make a later project out of the newer truck after things settle but would that be double trouble or even needed?
you are right john....we have already moved forward with the rusty truck....i struggle with the "good enough for temporary" way of doing this. we will see how it goes. thanks for watching!
I like the 2nd truck too better an if you get in a bind you would not have redo this project again, a you puting a tubo deisel in it , i wold use best parts on first truck on 2nd truck if needed.THANKS for the videos
personally I don't think the extra length would be an issue but each driveline outfit has their own take on things. with the heavier rear axle, the difference in length shouldn't be as noticeable as with the lighter rear suspension. either way, I'm sure you will end up with a good working temporary permanent truck when your done. on Volvo's and a few other brands, they stamp a divot, kind of like a deep center punch mark, usually behind trans cross member or further back. this divot is used for layout of suspension mounting and cross member holes. in your case with using an existing frame, your rear alignment should be good. if adding on an alignment should be checked to verify that everything is true.
if i remember right it would make the driveshaft about 70". i dont mind that length as a one piece shaft (with a slip joint). i checked the frame for square before i decided to move the axle and it is right on. i wanted to be sure i wasnt wasting time on a racked frame. i do like the fact that doing the 72"ca is not going to cost anything and if i decide to to do the 84"...it is just drilling some holes and then change the driveshaft. the frame will be cut at the same location regardless of where the axle is going to set. i am going to reroute the air lines and wiring in a way that will leave enough to move it to the 84" without splicing.
If you get hydraulic brakes too hot you'll boil the fluid and loose pressure. Doesn't usually happen on cars, happens all the time to 25,000 gvw truck runni g hydraulic brakes.
How many trucks do you have, another one just keeps popping up. Have you decided on which one for project dump truck? Should be another interesting project which ever you decide
oh boy....i dont like to count. if i do i may think i have too many. i might have enough to make a couple more videos. i am using the first truck. the 2002 or 2003 international 4300 with the rust frame.
@@j.c.smithprojects Well I'm about to attempt my first install of a dump body on a 1991 f super duty 7.3 5 speed 1.5 ton cab and chassis. 60 inch cab to axle. Wheel base 139" The frame has been extended . Cab to rear of frame is 9 foot. Was looking at installing a 10 ft dump bed. My questions were. 1- do I need a sub frame? 2- is 16 inch of hang over to much? 3- would I be better off shortening the rear of the frame by cutting off up to the rear leaf spring hanger and just going with a 8 ft bed? 4- if I do cut frame down and go with a 8 ft bed , will four inchs of hang over be enuff? I'll be mainly hauling sawdust and stone and just dumping in a pile and some stone spreading
i start by knowing the gvwr of the truck and its intended purpose. then, i build from there. the shorter the bed, the lighter it is. this means more weight you can carry. fine line between just the right overhang and not enough. especially if you are going electric over hydraulic. more over hang makes it easier to dump with electric. more overhang puts the bed floor closer to the ground when dumping . this can be helpful and harmful. if you drop rear gate from top to bottom, you may dag when dumping. consider what hitch you may want and watch for clearance as well. if you are running a trans mounted pto, a shorter over hang is easier to over come because that type pto ands pump are stronger and make good flow with consistent pressure. i like 12" or under on a bed that short. sub frame is usually decided by the construction of the bed and lift assembly with it. sometimes its necessary so the bed clears the tires when loaded. or so the scissor lift clears frame cross members. or if the frame isnt a flat rail from front to back. on a 60" cab to axle i would only consider 8 or 9'. otherwise, thee is too much bed behind the center of the rear axle and "lifts" weight of the steer axle. it can be very dangerous. especially in wet or winter weather.
@@j.c.smithprojects Ok on to my next wonders lol I bought my bed today. It's a 8 ft contractor bed. It's a fixer upper but has good bones. Looks like I'm going to have 8 inches of over hang. My hoist is huge. And maybe to big. It's a omaha standard 524 DH. It's a stout hoist , using eletic over hydraulic it totally made a boomerang out of the frame of a f550. Now my questions. 1. Would I be better off just using the cylinder out of the scizzor and mounting cylinder from sun frame directly to the bed instead of using the scizzor system. 2. The frame rails on the bottom of the bed are 4"x3 " channel and I was thinking of building my sub frame out of the same 4"x3" channel to match up good with the frame rails. Is this a good idea or not? 3. If I go with the scizzor hoist system where should the hoist attached to the bed rails? What I mean is where at as far as 2 feet from back of bed 4 feet off back of bed or where? 4. I'm afraid if I use the scizzor that I'll have to do away with my from fuel tank because unless the scizzor hinge stays elevated when mounted it won't clear or even have room to be mounted without coming in n contact with my fuel tank. I've taken pictures and if you want it would be great if you would text me at 606-331-6095 I don't want to bother u but I'm just as picky as u are and I want to do the install right. Thanks Josh
I think the first truck is the best plan. if the frame is iffy you could shorten cross members and put a 3/16" liner in the frame. just had some 11" tall ones ,8' long made, 235$ for the pair. It wouldn't be too expensive to get a new driveshaft tube put in to obtain the 84" or so cab to axle. drilling a few more holes isn't too bad if it makes everything ideal. for your hole layout, up and down on the frame, get a steel square and tack 2" x2" x1/8" angle on each side of the long leg of square. makes layout much faster and more accurate than other methods. I use the same method you described with EMT, except I use 1/4" steel flat bar. magnetic drill with annular cutters makes quick work of drilling frame.
i decided to use the first truck. i am running short on time and only have a few days to spare to get this dump going. mag drill with annular bits is for sure the ideal set up. i considered doing a double frame as i have some double frame cut offs from another international. the driveshaft will be about $500. they dont like to make one driveshaft as long as i need it. they want to make it a 2 piece with a carrier. plus all new u joints and the new carrier bearing. i really like the steel framing square idea.
Could you use the front drive shaft in the 'Rust Bucket" as the front piece of a double shaft? Probably not, but could you tell us what the dimensions have to be? What are you thinking of for a permanent replacement truck?
the permanent truck was suppose to be the 2002 ih 4700 i bought about a moth ago...but since a friend of mine is in a bad way, he is using it until he gets the money together to fix his. it is looking like the rusty truck will be the permanent truck as i have already started doing all the things like i normally would. the driveshaft needs to be under 72" as a one piece and for this size tube.
There was a fella I worked for he dealt with landscape Rock,well he said he found a "Deal" on a 98??? International it had the DT466 in it too.Well there guys weren't very intelligent and 1 pretends he's a Mechanic..well they went to Georgia to pick it up,on the way up it Overheats well they eventually get it back up to NC thinking it was air in the system.They worked that truck maybe 4 hrs before the Head Gasket let go,they blamed the Motor but I dunno about that,I'm no Mechanic but if I watch enough of your vids and AvE' s vids there is no way that I won't learn somethin.
J.C. NOT TO BE RUDE, LESS TALK AND MORE ACTION WOULD MAKE FOR A BETTER VIDEO WE CAN SEE WHAT YOU ARE DOING AS YOU WORK ALONG, KEEP UP THE VIDEOS GREAT TO WATCH.
you may understand and can follow but there are many who have never done this kind of work and appreciate all the details and explanations. i try to make it so anyone can understand the process. its tough to make a video that suits everyone who watches it.
It is alot of talk, and alot of work to just get a temporary dump truck,just to heat with wood. I would just use a pickup and get the job done and go make some money.
Nice dump bed
New paint My diamond plate gets a nice diamond plate pieces on there. Get that puppy painted zebra diamond plate on there. Make that poppy look real nice.
I like it when you talk about the Internationals putting dump bodies on it or whatever configuration you come up with great work
Dear J.C. Smith projects family
👍👌👏 I'm eagerly looking forward to watch the next part.
I'm currently watching older videos because I simply love to watch your stuff (no new content for me to watch is left).
Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing.
Best regards luck and health.
Another adventure series, I'm watchin for more !!
oh doug i was hoping this wasnt going to be a "series" but it sure is looking like it is turning into that. i am struggling with leaving the rusty frame, i want it to be 84" cab to center of axle and i really want to replace the fuel tanks. those are just the things i am thinking about now! i am sure there will be more!
What is the best cab to axle for a 12 foot dump bed
Its easier to shorten than lengthen the chasy
I always wondered what type of steel is used for dump trucks
Winters coming, and you've got a lot stacked at the moment, You might be better off to go with the first if it's a temporary dump you need and make a later project out of the newer truck after things settle but would that be double trouble or even needed?
you are right john....we have already moved forward with the rusty truck....i struggle with the "good enough for temporary" way of doing this. we will see how it goes. thanks for watching!
I do that with a lot of the things I do sometimes causing me to not even get done. I need to stop it for some of the things I do at home.
Too bad that 07 has a 6 liter. Ugh
I like the 2nd truck too better an if you get in a bind you would not have redo this project again, a you puting a tubo deisel in it , i wold use best parts on first truck on 2nd truck if needed.THANKS for the videos
personally I don't think the extra length would be an issue but each driveline outfit has their own take on things. with the heavier rear axle, the difference in length shouldn't be as noticeable as with the lighter rear suspension. either way, I'm sure you will end up with a good working temporary permanent truck when your done. on Volvo's and a few other brands, they stamp a divot, kind of like a deep center punch mark, usually behind trans cross member or further back. this divot is used for layout of suspension mounting and cross member holes. in your case with using an existing frame, your rear alignment should be good. if adding on an alignment should be checked to verify that everything is true.
if i remember right it would make the driveshaft about 70". i dont mind that length as a one piece shaft (with a slip joint). i checked the frame for square before i decided to move the axle and it is right on. i wanted to be sure i wasnt wasting time on a racked frame. i do like the fact that doing the 72"ca is not going to cost anything and if i decide to to do the 84"...it is just drilling some holes and then change the driveshaft. the frame will be cut at the same location regardless of where the axle is going to set. i am going to reroute the air lines and wiring in a way that will leave enough to move it to the 84" without splicing.
What is the main attraction to air brakes instead of hydraulic brakes?
If you get hydraulic brakes too hot you'll boil the fluid and loose pressure. Doesn't usually happen on cars, happens all the time to 25,000 gvw truck runni g hydraulic brakes.
How many trucks do you have, another one just keeps popping up. Have you decided on which one for project dump truck? Should be another interesting project which ever you decide
oh boy....i dont like to count. if i do i may think i have too many. i might have enough to make a couple more videos. i am using the first truck. the 2002 or 2003 international 4300 with the rust frame.
I must've miss the video of the dump bed coming off.😔
Here it is marcus. ruclips.net/video/tHc9saHtePU/видео.html
J.C. SMITH PROJECTS thank you
It's the temporary dump truck! Give that frame a J.C.Smith over hall ( gallon of rustolum and acetone) . You will be thankful for the airbrakes
the air brakes and the higher weight capacity is what i am after. i dont know if i have time for the frame paint on this one.
Hey jc. Been watching your video
I need advice on a dump truck project. Can u help me?
possibly. what is your question?
@@j.c.smithprojects
Well I'm about to attempt my first install of a dump body on a 1991 f super duty 7.3 5 speed 1.5 ton cab and chassis.
60 inch cab to axle.
Wheel base 139"
The frame has been extended .
Cab to rear of frame is 9 foot.
Was looking at installing a 10 ft dump bed.
My questions were.
1- do I need a sub frame?
2- is 16 inch of hang over to much?
3- would I be better off shortening the rear of the frame by cutting off up to the rear leaf spring hanger and just going with a 8 ft bed?
4- if I do cut frame down and go with a 8 ft bed , will four inchs of hang over be enuff? I'll be mainly hauling sawdust and stone and just dumping in a pile and some stone spreading
i start by knowing the gvwr of the truck and its intended purpose. then, i build from there. the shorter the bed, the lighter it is. this means more weight you can carry. fine line between just the right overhang and not enough. especially if you are going electric over hydraulic. more over hang makes it easier to dump with electric. more overhang puts the bed floor closer to the ground when dumping . this can be helpful and harmful. if you drop rear gate from top to bottom, you may dag when dumping. consider what hitch you may want and watch for clearance as well. if you are running a trans mounted pto, a shorter over hang is easier to over come because that type pto ands pump are stronger and make good flow with consistent pressure. i like 12" or under on a bed that short. sub frame is usually decided by the construction of the bed and lift assembly with it. sometimes its necessary so the bed clears the tires when loaded. or so the scissor lift clears frame cross members. or if the frame isnt a flat rail from front to back. on a 60" cab to axle i would only consider 8 or 9'. otherwise, thee is too much bed behind the center of the rear axle and "lifts" weight of the steer axle. it can be very dangerous. especially in wet or winter weather.
@@j.c.smithprojects
Very helpful
Thanks
@@j.c.smithprojects
Ok on to my next wonders lol
I bought my bed today.
It's a 8 ft contractor bed.
It's a fixer upper but has good bones.
Looks like I'm going to have 8 inches of over hang.
My hoist is huge.
And maybe to big.
It's a omaha standard 524 DH.
It's a stout hoist , using eletic over hydraulic it totally made a boomerang out of the frame of a f550.
Now my questions.
1. Would I be better off just using the cylinder out of the scizzor and mounting cylinder from sun frame directly to the bed instead of using the scizzor system.
2. The frame rails on the bottom of the bed are 4"x3 " channel and I was thinking of building my sub frame out of the same 4"x3" channel to match up good with the frame rails.
Is this a good idea or not?
3. If I go with the scizzor hoist system where should the hoist attached to the bed rails? What I mean is where at as far as 2 feet from back of bed 4 feet off back of bed or where?
4. I'm afraid if I use the scizzor that I'll have to do away with my from fuel tank because unless the scizzor hinge stays elevated when mounted it won't clear or even have room to be mounted without coming in n contact with my fuel tank.
I've taken pictures and if you want it would be great if you would text me at 606-331-6095
I don't want to bother u but I'm just as picky as u are and I want to do the install right.
Thanks
Josh
I think the first truck is the best plan. if the frame is iffy you could shorten cross members and put a 3/16" liner in the frame. just had some 11" tall ones ,8' long made, 235$ for the pair. It wouldn't be too expensive to get a new driveshaft tube put in to obtain the 84" or so cab to axle. drilling a few more holes isn't too bad if it makes everything ideal. for your hole layout, up and down on the frame, get a steel square and tack 2" x2" x1/8" angle on each side of the long leg of square. makes layout much faster and more accurate than other methods. I use the same method you described with EMT, except I use 1/4" steel flat bar. magnetic drill with annular cutters makes quick work of drilling frame.
i decided to use the first truck. i am running short on time and only have a few days to spare to get this dump going. mag drill with annular bits is for sure the ideal set up. i considered doing a double frame as i have some double frame cut offs from another international. the driveshaft will be about $500. they dont like to make one driveshaft as long as i need it. they want to make it a 2 piece with a carrier. plus all new u joints and the new carrier bearing. i really like the steel framing square idea.
Could you use the front drive shaft in the 'Rust Bucket" as the front piece of a double shaft? Probably not, but could you tell us what the dimensions have to be?
What are you thinking of for a permanent replacement truck?
the permanent truck was suppose to be the 2002 ih 4700 i bought about a moth ago...but since a friend of mine is in a bad way, he is using it until he gets the money together to fix his. it is looking like the rusty truck will be the permanent truck as i have already started doing all the things like i normally would. the driveshaft needs to be under 72" as a one piece and for this size tube.
Where is #4?
There was a fella I worked for he dealt with landscape Rock,well he said he found a "Deal" on a 98??? International it had the DT466 in it too.Well there guys weren't very intelligent and 1 pretends he's a Mechanic..well they went to Georgia to pick it up,on the way up it Overheats well they eventually get it back up to NC thinking it was air in the system.They worked that truck maybe 4 hrs before the Head Gasket let go,they blamed the Motor but I dunno about that,I'm no Mechanic but if I watch enough of your vids and AvE' s vids there is no way that I won't learn somethin.
Jc I would do the first truck brother
hey buddy! how have you all been doing? i hope all is well. i have decide that is exactly what i am going to do.....quick, fast and in a hurry!
Pray about it brother. Leave it in God's hands
i have made my decision. i am moving forward with the 2002. it is a cheap and faster option. i will build a nice dump when i get more time.
J.C. SMITH PROJECTS there ya go
J.C. NOT TO BE RUDE, LESS TALK AND MORE ACTION WOULD MAKE FOR A BETTER VIDEO WE CAN SEE WHAT YOU ARE DOING AS YOU WORK ALONG, KEEP UP THE VIDEOS GREAT TO WATCH.
you may understand and can follow but there are many who have never done this kind of work and appreciate all the details and explanations. i try to make it so anyone can understand the process. its tough to make a video that suits everyone who watches it.
@@j.c.smithprojects Don't listen to that guy, your videos are good.
I appreciate your descriptions, week day desk jockey, weekend warrior diy mechanic. BE NICE IF SOMEBODY WOULD TURN OFF CAPS LOCK! GD....
It is alot of talk, and alot of work to just get a temporary dump truck,just to heat with wood. I would just use a pickup and get the job done and go make some money.
I thought you were going to do some work...sounds like a ton of things you can do, but you don't do any of them. label this video (only brainstorming)
hope you finds a channel that makes you happy.