Hey everyone- since a lot of people seem to be losing sleep over it, no the pinion is not hardened or some fancy alloy that is going to be hurt by heating it. My Chinese lathe is honoured that you all think so highly of its components, but you can count on one hand the parts in these machines that are hardened or any alloy that would mind a little heat. So let’s not bother typing that any more. Now you can get some rest, finally! Also a lot of people saying the shear pin on the leadscrew didn’t do its job. Well, that isn’t that shear pin’s job. That shear pin is to save the leadscrew if you crash with the half nut engaged. It has a 4:1 (plus the rack) mechanical advantage over the pinion and there’s six gears and shafts between the two. That pin ain’t gonna shear from the power feed. This lathe SHOULD have a shear pin on that pinion. That would be nice. But it isn’t that existing shear pin’s fault. If it would was weak enough to shear from that pinion at the other end of a 4:1 gearbox, you couldn’t cut threads with it. It would shear from the force of the half nut pushing hard through a 13 tpi thread. So feel free to complain that there should be a SECOND shear pin here, but don’t blame that one. It’s doing its job by not shearing here. 😉
I also bought a Chinese 6125 lathe, the DC motor will becoming weaker some years later and you have to replace a better AC motor. Maybe I will buy a big second industry lathe.
Hey heads up, the shoulder of the pinion took a slight deformation where you applied the percussive maintenance with your precision impact device. Looks like it may create a wear spot on the cast iron case and pull the pinion out ever so slightly which could affect alignment. It may end up wearing itself some clearance, but just in case you didn't notice it. It can be seen clearly at 13:02 in the video. My 14 year old pointed it out to me. I love to sit down with my 10 and 14 (soon to be 15) year old girls and watch your videos, it inspires the hell out of them. I mean, I tell them all the time they can do this kind of stuff, but Dad is just Dad, I am supposed to say that, and they help me often in the garage/shop. But seeing you doing this work, your openness and honesty in your approach really speaks to them, thanks for putting out this content, it is much appreciated.
I pulled my first commercial lathe out of a green bin, my kids in grade school. That's been almost forty years, and five or six lathes later. I just sold my "extra bridgeport" a couple months ago, my daughter put it on facebook, you meet the nicest people, selling old machine tools, and buying them. It's always nice when one can tear it apart, and make it better than it was before.
Hi Quinn I just found you channel, and you are completely awesome!!!!! I am a hobby machinist, I have learned so much in just the short time I’ve been watching your channel. Years ago I got a 13/40 lathe for 50 bucks. I had to go through it and clean it up ways where lightly cover in powdery rust(no pitting). I used electrolysis to clean a lot of the parts, polished the ways with ultra fine diamond hone. Got it dialed in, started it up and found that the carriage had been crashed like yours. The same part was bent. I drilled it and used drill rod turned to correct diameter and pinned just like you said. Been working for 15 years now. I love being able to make or build what I need. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge it’s nice to learn new things. Take care and God bless you and yours.
I don't have machine tools myself, and what I do in my father's shop isn't within tolerances to qualify for the term "machining." Nevertheless I learn so much from these videos - like tapping in the alignment pins before tightening the bolts. These kind of attention to detail things can make a huge difference even for my not-precision projects.
What impresses me is that you've had this lathe for how many years before you managed to do this? I was replacing this very same part within like, a month of owning the machine lol. So, ya know, well done on that. Side note, my "shear pin" was literally just a rough ground piece of steel. So quality is apparently a moving target with chinese machines... 😂 Edit, slide hammer works great on taper pins. They're cheap, in case you ever see one at a yard sale for a buck or something, pick it up just in case maybe. Edit Edit, I must have fished that roll pin out 7 or 8 times. It was a gas watching you go through this and reliving my own drama. What a pleasure, thanks for sharing this!
I did break the lead screw nut on my cross slide in the first two months (crashed it into the inner stop), but I didn’t have a YT channel at the time. 😁
“with a little deduction and not forcing anything…” Well that’s just not the way I work - picture Homer Simpson... Excellent tips, of course. Excellent content, as usual. Cheers & thanks!
you did a nice job fixing his, but I would have thought the shear pin should have broken the keep this from happening. Maybe you should reduce the pin diameter at the shear point
So sorry you crashed your lathe but I wish you would have done it 6 months ago because I crashed mine and your video would have helped me greatly. I had to fumble through the disassembly and replacement of the pinion gear on my own, and I’m not near the machinist or mechanic you are. Precision Matthews does sell the pinion gear and it was not too expensive as I recall but you have to drill the hole for the role pin into the new pinion gear and it has to be EXACTLY in the correct location on the pinion gear.
Ohh, to me it happend the same. But my maschine is a little bit different in construction. I replaced it with a complete new shaft. The old one was gummy steal.
it seems like it would make sense to full insert the taper pins before tightening the bolts down as they should be there to correctly align the bolts? also instead of tapping directly on the taper pins screw in the bolt to be more gentle on the pins when tapping. I just worry that you might hurt the threads and make removal harder next time.
@@dans_Learning_Curve Nothing wrong with this method. I just wanted to suggest a nice easy lathe project. Not sure how well known they are as far as tools go, with a few different attachments (various thread sizes for example) they can be really useful. Sometimes its really helpful to be able to tappy-tap-tap instead of gradually build up the force. If you use them to remove dowel pins you do that first, before undoing the bolts. Probably not worth buying for most people, but simple to make out of some random bits of steel.
Awkward tension pins/roll pins. Take a piece of wire (I use stainless tig welding wire) Put it through the hole that the pin is to go through. Slide the pin down the wire to begin seating in the hole. Use a punch to start the pin. Remove wire and complete reseating of the pin.
@@Blondihacks I have used a magnet have several few look like a old tv antenna they extend out have sever different sizes tips ..could also have got down in the oil bath I think not sure how tight the room you had ,, great video ,, did you get the spare part ordered yet ??? I have a mini mill/drill press I need to find the wire diagram for it wires come apart don't know where they go ,, unit from the slow boat area ..you did great on the repair see you in the next video ..
Great repair. An alternate method of straightening is to heat the part and then put a wet rag on the high spot which will pull it back toward straight. Keep on keeping on.
bent a axle on my 4 wheeler 15 years ago .. priced a new one said I would try and fix this 1st ,, they told me and other people said do NOT heat it ,, it was hardened ,, I have a cheap pipe bender with the dies and a jack in it .. rolled the axle on a flat surface marked the bend .. put it in the bender and rolled it again checking and marking the spot repeated 3 or 4 times ..reinstalled tested ok .. just have to know what your heating is not hardened or you have to get it re hardened
Another great video. I’m pleased you managed to straighten the part ok. Probably better tolerance than when new🤣 If you ever have to straighten anything like that again I recommend cutting a radius in the end of a cold chisel. Not to try to cut the part but to be able to direct the impact pressure to exactly the right spot. The same thing is employed to straighten crankshafts. There are some great RUclips videos of this process. Take care and stay safe.
I have succesfully straightened round items in the following way: first I machined aluminum half-rings, with the ring outer diameter double (or so) the outer diameter of the axle. (The rings were made with internal diameter to match the outer diameter of the axle that needed straightening, and then I sawed the rings in half.) The half-rings allowed me to exert a lot of force, without risking damage to the surface of the axle. I used a setup with three half-rings. I clamped the assembly in a vise with wide enough jaws, with the middle half ring set to push at the spot along the axle where it had been bent. So one jaw of the vise was pushing only the outer ends of the (short) axle, and the other jaw was pushing only the one half-ring at the spot where the bend had occurred. I supported the axle, so I could back off the jaws without the axle sliding down. With the jaws hardly pushing I slowly rotated the axle to feel where it was binding a little. At the orientation where the axle was binding the most I turned up the force of the vise, and then I backed off again. If I could feel no reduction of the bend then I would try again, turning up to a little more force, each time backing off again, and then rotating the axle to feel if there was still an orientation where it was binding a little. That way I was able to straighten that axle back to a point where I could roll it over a surface plate and I could no longer see any wobble.
Quinn, you nailed it, I love repairing more than the oh sh#$%. Good thing for you you were dealing with parts easy to see and feel. Unfortunately last night I was repositioning my $100.00 indicator on my mill to set up my rotary table and accidentally knocked it off on to the concrete. Well didn't work when I picked it up. Rest of the evening spent digging out watchmakers screwdrivers and doing an autopsy on said instrument, smallest screwdrivers I had, akin to working on fleas balls. Had to disassemble the Guage and found the tiny clock arm mechanism knocked out of its groove. Removed it slid it back in place, worked perfect. So never give up no matter what. I'm 71 years old but still figure difficulties out. Hang in there girl, you are brilliant.
Nice job Quinn, we have straighten a few shafts between two Vee blocks and using the arbor press . I realize your shaft is very small but I am always amazed at the memory metal has. some times you give the handle (its long) a tug and the shaft springs back . Your patience and approach to problem solving is inspirational ... Pete M
Trick I learned from my dad a long time ago: if you've got a roll-pin to insert in an awkward spot, a matchstick/toothpick will give you some extra surface to hold on to to get it started in the hole.
Supporting the leadscrew with a machinist jack for tapping out the tapered shear pin is a great idea and convinces me it's time to make some machinist jacks.
Quinn, I love watching your videos because your a down to earth person (not afraid to make mistakes). It's great to see the repair of equipment at times and also all of your projects.
I tuned in expecting a replacement and got a repair. I’m impressed. That was even better than the other two Canadian versions of Crash, one by David Cronenberg and the other by Paul Haggis.
This gives me hope and encouragement to try to fix the rod for my power feed on my tiny unimat. The I tried to "fix" it by buying a replacement (ebay, all parts are vintage and have quirks). I have a "better" rod but it is just bent in a different places. I now have two so I can pick one to try to fix.
It's good to see manufactures are still protecting consumers interest by making sure a pricy precision ground and hobbed part fails before the inexpensive bog standard shear pin needs replaced!
I don't think there is a world where the shear pin on the lead screw would break before anything in the apron would fail. It's there to protect the lead screw itself. Also some guy called Don Not told me that this ain't the most pricey machine in the world. I ain't judging Quinn, I'm sure this is a very useful and durable piece of machinery when used properly.
@@Shit_I_Missed. I take it you never had a Clausing, LaBlonde or Elliot Cardiff Major. We have broken shear pins on the lead and/or power feed shafts on all of them. (Pushing too heavy a cut) The pins are made of brass and/or aluminum at very specific diameters for a reason, you know. Just ALWAYS either use a factory pin or an exact shop made duplicate,,,including the alloy and they will do their job.
@@mathewmolk2089 Perhaps I misunderstood how the power was being transferred on this machine. I assumed it was going through the worm gear on the apron into the gears inside the apron which then bent the drive pinion. As Blonde said, the shear pin on the worm gear would be intended to save the half-nut if that is what was driving into the stalk. I guess the half-nut is also in the apron, but that's not what I intended to include.
In that application, the Starrett framing hammer is referred to in industry as a 16 oz. precision alignment probe, or a tactical lateral impact enhancement device.
Quinn, in my opinion, this is one of your very best videos, especially for a newbie like myself. I'm bound to make more mistakes than you and this video encourages me to dig into the nitty gritty to solve and fix the problem. Just brilliant!
Intrusting. look at you lathe . i say that because i own a Colchester , master graduate lath. One hounded & 50 yeas old . it as the same arrangement as your lath. But for the trends on the drive shaft it as the key groove the lenth of the shaft . New models we fitted with leaded screw. as a separate . add in the 50's on I'm explaining this because you've given me an idea. a sliding thread to rotate & give me a stat t & end point. when signal pint Threading & I can then fit & ues a trading diel.. in closing i will just point out that as with your siystom the carriage is driven by the rack in my case it is that what drives the thread cutting. too But it as no trading dial to ues it i would time 3 pints on the lath Whit a marker. ONE [ the chuck] Two the [ drive shaft] & Three [the saddle] . Now i have a way to have a trading dial. {thank you for having you accident} there is always a silver lining if we look for it , Les Thompson England . glad you got it fixed . XXX
Love your vids! I was a machinist in a refinery for years, now retired and missing machining! I don’t want this to sound bad, certainly not my intentions but I love to see a woman doing this kind of work in a previously male dominated trade, good for you! Keep up the great work! Plus, you’ve got me thinking about getting a hobby lathe and possibly a mill after I finish my Charger project.
I'm working hard to not retire, I worked twenty years at a small machine shop with a woman who did very fine work, and "worked straight up, with the guys" a real peer, in every way. I spent two decades in the marines, and it was good to find "peers" there as well. It's also a challenge for a man to work in a woman's venue, I worked many years on assembly lines, on the side, in female dominated work. We each have our own ways, and learn across the gap, I think.
Would you consider making a replacement part like that, with the repaired part back in place? I am curious how deep the Hobby goes. I enjoy all your videos, and your sense of humor. Thank you for sharing.
One slip and down the hole we fall It seems to take no time at all A momentary lapse of reason That binds a life for a life The one regret you will never forget There'll be no sleep in here tonight
On EMCO lathes (made in Austria) the leadscrew is attached to the gear by a simple 3mm aluminium pin. if something crashes it cuts itself acting as a fuse. I crashed 3 or 4 times without any damage, just the pin to be replaced.
Nice job Quinn, great vid!!! I have a 17" X 60" South Bend Turnado that needs new clutch plate, could we schedule a service call? LOL Thanks for sharing the repair with us.
A design flaw in the the lathe, why didn't the lead screw brass shear pin, shear? It would have saved you a lot of trouble if it did what it was suppose to do. At least you did a good repair and it only cost you your time and a bit of oxyacetylene gas.
For small engine oil changes, I bought one of those suction oil removers. It may not get 100%, but the ease factor so I actually change oil more often I hope makes up for that.
I bought a little Atlas lathe years ago at an estate sale that had a similar problem with it I paid $10 for it because the carriage wouldn't move but somebody had crashed it while it was in feed and did quite the number on it thank goodness there were still parts at that time available mid-90s ALL HAIL QUINN!!! Not only Machinist,, but up-and-coming machine maintenance mechanic..😸😼👑
When I have to take apart something oily I copy the manual pages then with one of those $10 laminators put each in plastic. Nice to work with and don’t have to worry about ruining the original manual. Bought one of those Bridgeport rebuild guides and laminated the whole thing.
Did you look at the rack gear inn the location where the pinion was bent. In shops I have worked in. There were guys that drilled with large drills in the tool post. Generally when this kind of thing happened the rack gear could also be damaged. Just a thought.
Nothing more satisfying than a successful repair. Got a couple questions. 1) how heavy was that casting and lead screw? You didn't seem to struggle with it at all. You're either really strong (which honestly wouldn't surprise me) or it's lighter than it looks. 2) why is over filling the oil bad? I don't doubt that it is, but I like to understand why things are a certain way instead of just accepting.
Awesome vid, as always 🙂 I was surprised you didn't have a dowel extractor, they are a great fairly simple turning project that maybe your viewers would enjoy / benefit from you making. I know you'd do it in a inspirational can do kinda way 🙂
Awesome video and a good result. One way I have used to straighten things is to put it in a hydraulic press, and use a dial indicator to measure the deflection.
Love your videos, as well as, your sense of humor. I’m always impressed at your level of mechanical understanding. I’m an amateur machinist and have learned a lot from you. I also find your voice soothing, very easy to listen to.
I changed the o-ring on my half nut lever which was cut and leaking from the factory... This video just caused a flood of repressed memories of the whole ordeal. Great video Quinn, far more organized than I was. Probably the same amount of profanity used in the process I'm imagining.
You have the same manufacture of lathe as mine, albeit branded differently. This video has taught me a lot about how to strip it when the inevitable happen. I'm almost looking forward to you damaging the main gearbox so we can see how that comes apart. I suspect with much more difficulty!
The beautiful thing about buying a lathe from the 1940's that has been sitting in a shop neglected and abandoned is, the first thing you get to do is learn how to completely DCOA the machine before you can use it.
Regarding pins , roll pins, taper pins, shear pins, cotters etc, the worst car example I know is the Austin 7 front king pin cotter pins. Unless you know how they work you can not get them out. The king pin is round of course and sits in the stub axle. The cotter that locks it in isn't a standard tapered cotter, instead it has a half moon cutout in it. You put that through the side of the stub axle first, line up the half moon with the hole then drop the king pin through. Then you can do up the nut on the cotter to tighten it all. Undoing it you need to just loosen the nut to release the pin (good luck after 90 years on an original) and slide the king pin out. But externally it looks like a normal cotter you can just tap though. You never can though, the half moon holds it captive. Not sure where else that system is used but unless you know that's what it is it a real puzzler! I don't think you truly own a lathe until you have made a part for a lathe on itself! Bonus points if the part you make is one that typically renders the lathe unusable without it!
Hola Blondi; Este magnifico video-tutorial de como desrarmar el delantal de tu torno me ha servido de mucho. A mi tambien se me ha torcido el eje principal y... se ha coronado el pequeño engranaje que hce mover el delantal. A parte de que se ha fisurado la propia caja del delantal; con lo cual: o le hago una reparación 'sui generi' modo de un muy buen refuerzo, o... me tocará comprar un delantal nuevo. Todo dependerá del precio del recambio. Me gustas porque eres una persona, casi tan, atrevida como yo, de tal manera que te atreves con todo. Edito; A tu forma de recuperación del eje sólo le veo el inconveniente que al calentarlo ha perdido el temple y ello requiere volver a darle temple, con el inconveniente de no saber el grado de dureza que tenía de origen. Es mejor enderezarlo en frio. Si algún día, nunca se sabe, pasas por Barcelona estaría encantado que nos visitaras al moto-club La Moto Clássica. Hello Blondi; This magnificent video tutorial on how to disassemble the apron of your lathe has been very useful to me. I also had the main shaft twisted and... the small gear that makes the apron move has been crowned. Apart from the fact that the apron box itself has cracked; therefore: either I do a 'sui generi' repair in the form of a very good reinforcement, or... I will have to buy a new apron. Everything will depend on the price of the replacement. I like you because you are a person almost as daring as I am, so much so that you dare to do everything. Edit; The only drawback I see in your way of recovering the shaft is that when it is heated it has lost its temper and this requires tempering it again, with the inconvenience of not knowing the degree of hardness it had from the beginning. It is better to straighten it when cold. If one day, you never know, you pass through Barcelona I would be delighted if you visited us at the La Moto Clássica motorcycle club. Greeting: Toti
Don't forget to pre-start that roll pin in the gear next time! I use that trick often because my hands often aren't steady enough to hold the roll pin in a tight space, especially over an open oil sump!!
I liked Cleon's idea with vise, especially if you had Made In Poland's hydraulic monstrosity that moonlights as a press, but bent is bent, perfection isn't possible. Maybe a large chisel to apply the force in smaller area? What if you had Abom79's flame welding rig to add metal, and then reground it to diameter?........
I think the big issue alot of people have, myself included is being intimidated by their own machines. In the past I've just left things well alone because of the fear of making things worse than when I started. And believe me this has happened a few times. I just think to myself, why did you get involved?! Now its completely f*****! However, you'll never learn anything if you dont take these leaps of faith. Sometimes it'll work great like Quinn here and sometimes you'll make it worse. But its a learning curve, The saying; "The comfort zone is a beautiful place, but nothing ever grows there." definitely applies to us machine hobbists. Get out there and embrace the learning curve!
I'll cop to having a laugh at your expense about 17:58, but only because I'm certain I already have or inevitably will do something similar. All in all though as long as it was a bent shaft and not a damaged Sprocket it's all just metal and that can be fixed.
That was kind of you to stage that with the lack of room and the drill press so we could see what to do if there isn't enough room for something. I also think it helps others be less frustrated when things come up because if Quinn struggles it's okay if I do. That was brilliant of you;) Also, aren't you worried that you might have accidentally hardened the mild steel pinion by heating it like that? Especially with acetylene since it makes a LOT of soot and soot is carbon and carbon hardens steel. You might have accidentally made a part that Elon is missing for Space X. Shhhh! Don't tell!
YES! , ALRIGHT, glad it was a easy , simple fix ! I cant believe you think grease smells worse than rear end /gear oil , that smells like sewage ROCK ON Mike
Hey everyone- since a lot of people seem to be losing sleep over it, no the pinion is not hardened or some fancy alloy that is going to be hurt by heating it. My Chinese lathe is honoured that you all think so highly of its components, but you can count on one hand the parts in these machines that are hardened or any alloy that would mind a little heat. So let’s not bother typing that any more. Now you can get some rest, finally!
Also a lot of people saying the shear pin on the leadscrew didn’t do its job. Well, that isn’t that shear pin’s job. That shear pin is to save the leadscrew if you crash with the half nut engaged. It has a 4:1 (plus the rack) mechanical advantage over the pinion and there’s six gears and shafts between the two. That pin ain’t gonna shear from the power feed. This lathe SHOULD have a shear pin on that pinion. That would be nice. But it isn’t that existing shear pin’s fault. If it would was weak enough to shear from that pinion at the other end of a 4:1 gearbox, you couldn’t cut threads with it. It would shear from the force of the half nut pushing hard through a 13 tpi thread. So feel free to complain that there should be a SECOND shear pin here, but don’t blame that one. It’s doing its job by not shearing here. 😉
.....and if it was hardened, it wouldn't have bent in the first place!! Another interesting and informative video Quinn, Thanks!
LoL 😆
I also bought a Chinese 6125 lathe, the DC motor will becoming weaker some years later and you have to replace a better AC motor. Maybe I will buy a big second industry lathe.
@@mwakelin if it was hardened it may have stripped teeth of gears .
Hey heads up, the shoulder of the pinion took a slight deformation where you applied the percussive maintenance with your precision impact device. Looks like it may create a wear spot on the cast iron case and pull the pinion out ever so slightly which could affect alignment. It may end up wearing itself some clearance, but just in case you didn't notice it.
It can be seen clearly at 13:02 in the video. My 14 year old pointed it out to me. I love to sit down with my 10 and 14 (soon to be 15) year old girls and watch your videos, it inspires the hell out of them. I mean, I tell them all the time they can do this kind of stuff, but Dad is just Dad, I am supposed to say that, and they help me often in the garage/shop. But seeing you doing this work, your openness and honesty in your approach really speaks to them, thanks for putting out this content, it is much appreciated.
As soon as you found the issue, I thought, "ok, just make a replacement with the lathe", and then I learned how people end up with multiple lathes. 😁
I only have 7 😆
I pulled my first commercial lathe out of a green bin, my kids in grade school. That's been almost forty years, and five or six lathes later. I just sold my "extra bridgeport" a couple months ago, my daughter put it on facebook, you meet the nicest people, selling old machine tools, and buying them. It's always nice when one can tear it apart, and make it better than it was before.
Those Knipex compound-leverage channel-lock pliers are the absolute business, aren't they? Not a cheap tool, but really worth the price.
Best hand tool I own, honestly. Love them
Those Knippers! Two in my bug out pouch and one in the main toolbox. Use the heck out of them. Love em. Money well spent.
@@somebodyelse6673 "stong enough to damage themselves" really seems like a feature, not a bug.
Quinn, to remove tapered pins with threads, you need a slide hammer... works like a charm. and likewise to reinstall em...
So tell me, what don't you know? You impress me with each video I watch.
Hi Quinn I just found you channel, and you are completely awesome!!!!! I am a hobby machinist, I have learned so much in just the short time I’ve been watching your channel. Years ago I got a 13/40 lathe for 50 bucks. I had to go through it and clean it up ways where lightly cover in powdery rust(no pitting). I used electrolysis to clean a lot of the parts, polished the ways with ultra fine diamond hone. Got it dialed in, started it up and found that the carriage had been crashed like yours. The same part was bent. I drilled it and used drill rod turned to correct diameter and pinned just like you said. Been working for 15 years now. I love being able to make or build what I need. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge it’s nice to learn new things. Take care and God bless you and yours.
Great job! I use the pulling bolt threaded into the taper pin to tap the pin in fully and then fully tighten
That was awesome! I knew you could do it Quinn! And I'm sorry I laughed a lot when you tried to fit the pillow block again hahaha 🤣
I don't have machine tools myself, and what I do in my father's shop isn't within tolerances to qualify for the term "machining." Nevertheless I learn so much from these videos - like tapping in the alignment pins before tightening the bolts. These kind of attention to detail things can make a huge difference even for my not-precision projects.
Done and done.
And with only one single and one double imperial fist shake.
Excellent.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Great Job, keep learning.
I learn something every time....
What impresses me is that you've had this lathe for how many years before you managed to do this? I was replacing this very same part within like, a month of owning the machine lol. So, ya know, well done on that. Side note, my "shear pin" was literally just a rough ground piece of steel. So quality is apparently a moving target with chinese machines... 😂 Edit, slide hammer works great on taper pins. They're cheap, in case you ever see one at a yard sale for a buck or something, pick it up just in case maybe. Edit Edit, I must have fished that roll pin out 7 or 8 times. It was a gas watching you go through this and reliving my own drama. What a pleasure, thanks for sharing this!
I did break the lead screw nut on my cross slide in the first two months (crashed it into the inner stop), but I didn’t have a YT channel at the time. 😁
Ahh pig mats the saviour of our machine shop floor many times.... especially when someone left the tap on while filling coolant barrels with water
Nice repair!
“with a little deduction and not forcing anything…” Well that’s just not the way I work - picture Homer Simpson... Excellent tips, of course. Excellent content, as usual. Cheers & thanks!
another enjoyable video
Thanks!
Great job! Glad it went so smoothly for you.
Hey Quinn! Do you know anyone on the YT that went full Robrenz on their cheap lathe and made it super precise (and posted the process here)?
Google "polishing a turd". You'll find a lifetime supply.😇🙂😜🤪🤣🙃💩
Good job.
you did a nice job fixing his, but I would have thought the shear pin should have broken the keep this from happening. Maybe you should reduce the pin diameter at the shear point
I lol'd multiple times, and I learned something. I wish you were my shop teacher. Oh wait, you are!! Thank you!!
So sorry you crashed your lathe but I wish you would have done it 6 months ago because I crashed mine and your video would have helped me greatly. I had to fumble through the disassembly and replacement of the pinion gear on my own, and I’m not near the machinist or mechanic you are. Precision Matthews does sell the pinion gear and it was not too expensive as I recall but you have to drill the hole for the role pin into the new pinion gear and it has to be EXACTLY in the correct location on the pinion gear.
Ohh, to me it happend the same. But my maschine is a little bit different in construction. I replaced it with a complete new shaft. The old one was gummy steal.
well done
Is the remaining pinion runout enough to cause variable mesh and variable backlash with the pinion?
"percussive maintenance"... 🔨
YEA!
I really REALLY enjoy your videos….. that is all
Nice fix. I would order the replacement gear, if you have it, you will never need it. If you don’t have it, you will need it four sure…
I have the same problem, the beam is out, but where can i buy those spare part?
So you can remove the gearbox knobs with the machine running at low speed?!?
Apparently 😂
Good job! Thanks for the look.
👍👍.
it seems like it would make sense to full insert the taper pins before tightening the bolts down as they should be there to correctly align the bolts? also instead of tapping directly on the taper pins screw in the bolt to be more gentle on the pins when tapping. I just worry that you might hurt the threads and make removal harder next time.
Next project: fabricating a slide hammer. Its a hammer for pulling, works great for dowel pins like this. Its actually nice of them to use this type.
I think her method worked well.
Pulled carburetor jets the same way. Taped non metering area with a 4-40 tap.
@@dans_Learning_Curve Nothing wrong with this method. I just wanted to suggest a nice easy lathe project. Not sure how well known they are as far as tools go, with a few different attachments (various thread sizes for example) they can be really useful.
Sometimes its really helpful to be able to tappy-tap-tap instead of gradually build up the force.
If you use them to remove dowel pins you do that first, before undoing the bolts.
Probably not worth buying for most people, but simple to make out of some random bits of steel.
@@dans_Learning_Curve both work, but I see the point, some people like having the right tool, ya know?
ah yes the slide hammer its got me in trouble many times being my goto. lol
I was thinking slide hammer too, but what she did was brilliant. One of those why didn't I think of it moments.
Awkward tension pins/roll pins.
Take a piece of wire (I use stainless tig welding wire)
Put it through the hole that the pin is to go through.
Slide the pin down the wire to begin seating in the hole.
Use a punch to start the pin.
Remove wire and complete reseating of the pin.
Good tip!
Ill second on good tip! I deal with those pins fairly often and will make good use of that suggestion.
@@Blondihacks I have used a magnet have several few look like a old tv antenna they extend out have sever different sizes tips ..could also have got down in the oil bath I think not sure how tight the room you had ,, great video ,, did you get the spare part ordered yet ??? I have a mini mill/drill press I need to find the wire diagram for it wires come apart don't know where they go ,, unit from the slow boat area ..you did great on the repair see you in the next video ..
Great repair. An alternate method of straightening is to heat the part and then put a wet rag on the high spot which will pull it back toward straight. Keep on keeping on.
For a master class on straightening check out Kieth Fenner's videos.
@@markbernier8434
Thanks for suggesting Keith Fenner's video on shaft straightening. It is quite an interesting and effective technique.
bent a axle on my 4 wheeler 15 years ago .. priced a new one said I would try and fix this 1st ,, they told me and other people said do NOT heat it ,, it was hardened ,, I have a cheap pipe bender with the dies and a jack in it .. rolled the axle on a flat surface marked the bend .. put it in the bender and rolled it again checking and marking the spot repeated 3 or 4 times ..reinstalled tested ok .. just have to know what your heating is not hardened or you have to get it re hardened
Another great video. I’m pleased you managed to straighten the part ok. Probably better tolerance than when new🤣 If you ever have to straighten anything like that again I recommend cutting a radius in the end of a cold chisel. Not to try to cut the part but to be able to direct the impact pressure to exactly the right spot. The same thing is employed to straighten crankshafts. There are some great RUclips videos of this process. Take care and stay safe.
Good idea! I actually have a dull chisel I could have used
I have succesfully straightened round items in the following way: first I machined aluminum half-rings, with the ring outer diameter double (or so) the outer diameter of the axle. (The rings were made with internal diameter to match the outer diameter of the axle that needed straightening, and then I sawed the rings in half.) The half-rings allowed me to exert a lot of force, without risking damage to the surface of the axle. I used a setup with three half-rings. I clamped the assembly in a vise with wide enough jaws, with the middle half ring set to push at the spot along the axle where it had been bent. So one jaw of the vise was pushing only the outer ends of the (short) axle, and the other jaw was pushing only the one half-ring at the spot where the bend had occurred. I supported the axle, so I could back off the jaws without the axle sliding down. With the jaws hardly pushing I slowly rotated the axle to feel where it was binding a little. At the orientation where the axle was binding the most I turned up the force of the vise, and then I backed off again. If I could feel no reduction of the bend then I would try again, turning up to a little more force, each time backing off again, and then rotating the axle to feel if there was still an orientation where it was binding a little. That way I was able to straighten that axle back to a point where I could roll it over a surface plate and I could no longer see any wobble.
Quinn, you nailed it, I love repairing more than the oh sh#$%. Good thing for you you were dealing with parts easy to see and feel. Unfortunately last night I was repositioning my $100.00 indicator on my mill to set up my rotary table and accidentally knocked it off on to the concrete. Well didn't work when I picked it up. Rest of the evening spent digging out watchmakers screwdrivers and doing an autopsy on said instrument, smallest screwdrivers I had, akin to working on fleas balls. Had to disassemble the Guage and found the tiny clock arm mechanism knocked out of its groove. Removed it slid it back in place, worked perfect. So never give up no matter what. I'm 71 years old but still figure difficulties out. Hang in there girl, you are brilliant.
Nice job Quinn, we have straighten a few shafts between two Vee blocks and using the arbor press . I realize your shaft is very small but I am always amazed at the memory metal has. some times you give the handle (its long) a tug and the shaft springs back . Your patience and approach to problem solving is inspirational ... Pete M
That stuff about different oils was REALLY fascinating! Thanks...
Trick I learned from my dad a long time ago: if you've got a roll-pin to insert in an awkward spot, a matchstick/toothpick will give you some extra surface to hold on to to get it started in the hole.
put the rollpin in the gear outside the apron much easier
Supporting the leadscrew with a machinist jack for tapping out the tapered shear pin is a great idea and convinces me it's time to make some machinist jacks.
availed crashing the dam Lath we have all done it . been there got the shirt ,
Quinn, I love watching your videos because your a down to earth person (not afraid to make mistakes). It's great to see the repair of equipment at times and also all of your projects.
I love watching the mistakes and how to fix them. Always fascinating to see how other people approach problems.
Exactly this - it's great to see people who are humble about what they do.
I tuned in expecting a replacement and got a repair. I’m impressed. That was even better than the other two Canadian versions of Crash, one by David Cronenberg and the other by Paul Haggis.
This is one of your best voice-overs ever with your "adult language" intermission and your imperial fist shakes. Excellent!
This gives me hope and encouragement to try to fix the rod for my power feed on my tiny unimat. The I tried to "fix" it by buying a replacement (ebay, all parts are vintage and have quirks). I have a "better" rod but it is just bent in a different places. I now have two so I can pick one to try to fix.
It's good to see manufactures are still protecting consumers interest by making sure a pricy precision ground and hobbed part fails before the inexpensive bog standard shear pin needs replaced!
I don't think there is a world where the shear pin on the lead screw would break before anything in the apron would fail. It's there to protect the lead screw itself. Also some guy called Don Not told me that this ain't the most pricey machine in the world. I ain't judging Quinn, I'm sure this is a very useful and durable piece of machinery when used properly.
@@Shit_I_Missed. I take it you never had a Clausing, LaBlonde or Elliot Cardiff Major. We have broken shear pins on the lead and/or power feed shafts on all of them. (Pushing too heavy a cut) The pins are made of brass and/or aluminum at very specific diameters for a reason, you know. Just ALWAYS either use a factory pin or an exact shop made duplicate,,,including the alloy and they will do their job.
@@mathewmolk2089 Perhaps I misunderstood how the power was being transferred on this machine. I assumed it was going through the worm gear on the apron into the gears inside the apron which then bent the drive pinion. As Blonde said, the shear pin on the worm gear would be intended to save the half-nut if that is what was driving into the stalk. I guess the half-nut is also in the apron, but that's not what I intended to include.
In that application, the Starrett framing hammer is referred to in industry as a 16 oz. precision alignment probe, or a tactical lateral impact enhancement device.
Great job there. If ordering a pinion also consider ordering a couple of shear pins;
lg
Quinn, in my opinion, this is one of your very best videos, especially for a newbie like myself. I'm bound to make more mistakes than you and this video encourages me to dig into the nitty gritty to solve and fix the problem. Just brilliant!
I wonder if the brass safety pin is too big ? Pretty sure my friend said the 10" southbend I have uses catgut?? No not sprocket...
That’s only Canadian left if we’re facing South.
Great job.
Nice repair.
Great content.
I also liked your line boring solution.
Thank you, EM.
Intrusting. look at you lathe . i say that because i own a Colchester , master graduate lath. One hounded & 50 yeas old . it as the same arrangement as your lath. But for the trends on the drive shaft it as the key groove the lenth of the shaft . New models we fitted with leaded screw. as a separate . add in the 50's on I'm explaining this because you've given me an idea. a sliding thread to rotate & give me a stat t & end point. when signal pint Threading & I can then fit & ues a trading diel..
in closing i will just point out that as with your siystom the carriage is driven by the rack in my case it is that what drives the thread cutting. too But it as no trading dial to ues it i would time 3 pints on the lath Whit a marker. ONE [ the chuck] Two the [ drive shaft] & Three [the saddle] . Now i have a way to have a trading dial.
{thank you for having you accident} there is always a silver lining if we look for it ,
Les Thompson England . glad you got it fixed . XXX
Love your vids! I was a machinist in a refinery for years, now retired and missing machining! I don’t want this to sound bad, certainly not my intentions but I love to see a woman doing this kind of work in a previously male dominated trade, good for you! Keep up the great work! Plus, you’ve got me thinking about getting a hobby lathe and possibly a mill after I finish my Charger project.
I'm working hard to not retire, I worked twenty years at a small machine shop with a woman who did very fine work, and "worked straight up, with the guys" a real peer, in every way. I spent two decades in the marines, and it was good to find "peers" there as well. It's also a challenge for a man to work in a woman's venue, I worked many years on assembly lines, on the side, in female dominated work. We each have our own ways, and learn across the gap, I think.
She's a alphabet person
@@AnnaBelle-sp9kq Uh,,,, well some people are good at letters and some at numbers!
@@turbobus6731 lol maybe you don't get it. Quinn is a he/she
@@AnnaBelle-sp9kq oh,,,, well,,,,, everybody has to be something!
What's blue and grey and sticky?
Not your lathe carriage anymore!
Would you consider making a replacement part like that, with the repaired part back in place? I am curious how deep the Hobby goes. I enjoy all your videos, and your sense of humor. Thank you for sharing.
One slip and down the hole we fall
It seems to take no time at all
A momentary lapse of reason
That binds a life for a life
The one regret you will never forget
There'll be no sleep in here tonight
On EMCO lathes (made in Austria) the leadscrew is attached to the gear by a simple 3mm aluminium pin. if something crashes it cuts itself acting as a fuse.
I crashed 3 or 4 times without any damage, just the pin to be replaced.
Projects are fulfilling in their own right, but there's something about maintenance that really seems to scratch a certain itch!
good repair good result...now just don't go on another.....Bender :D
You continue to amaze me. Your mechanical ability and knowledge rival anyone. You are also a talented entertainer.
Nice job Quinn, great vid!!! I have a 17" X 60" South Bend Turnado that needs new clutch plate, could we schedule a service call? LOL Thanks for sharing the repair with us.
A design flaw in the the lathe, why didn't the lead screw brass shear pin, shear? It would have saved you a lot of trouble if it did what it was suppose to do. At least you did a good repair and it only cost you your time and a bit of oxyacetylene gas.
Great job Quinn! It never fails, when I crash a machine I need that machine to make the part to fix it.
Ain’t that the truth!
For small engine oil changes, I bought one of those suction oil removers. It may not get 100%, but the ease factor so I actually change oil more often I hope makes up for that.
I inadvertently learned that a very slightly loose drill bit will pull out your average roll pin.
Machinist: How to grab and pull this thing?
Drill bit: Hold my beer
I bought a little Atlas lathe years ago at an estate sale that had a similar problem with it I paid $10 for it because the carriage wouldn't move but somebody had crashed it while it was in feed and did quite the number on it thank goodness there were still parts at that time available mid-90s ALL HAIL QUINN!!!
Not only Machinist,, but up-and-coming machine maintenance mechanic..😸😼👑
When I have to take apart something oily I copy the manual pages then with one of those $10 laminators put each in plastic. Nice to work with and don’t have to worry about ruining the original manual. Bought one of those Bridgeport rebuild guides and laminated the whole thing.
Never trust a manual that doesn't have greasy finger prints on it.
"So, i'll put it between centers on what remains of my lathe here...." 🤣
You could use a bearing bump tool like used in Clough42 latest video @13:42 to repair this shaft
ruclips.net/video/-q1HeWBlrxY/видео.html
Did you look at the rack gear inn the location where the pinion was bent. In shops I have worked in. There were guys that drilled with large drills in the tool post. Generally when this kind of thing happened the rack gear could also be damaged. Just a thought.
Brass taper pins are commonly used in Horology.
Nothing more satisfying than a successful repair. Got a couple questions.
1) how heavy was that casting and lead screw? You didn't seem to struggle with it at all. You're either really strong (which honestly wouldn't surprise me) or it's lighter than it looks.
2) why is over filling the oil bad? I don't doubt that it is, but I like to understand why things are a certain way instead of just accepting.
Awesome vid, as always 🙂 I was surprised you didn't have a dowel extractor, they are a great fairly simple turning project that maybe your viewers would enjoy / benefit from you making. I know you'd do it in a inspirational can do kinda way 🙂
Awesome video and a good result. One way I have used to straighten things is to put it in a hydraulic press, and use a dial indicator to measure the deflection.
This video is so strange to watch because of the bizarre way that you Canadians pronounce the word filet 😛
Love your videos, as well as, your sense of humor. I’m always impressed at your level of mechanical understanding. I’m an amateur machinist and have learned a lot from you. I also find your voice soothing, very easy to listen to.
Good repair. Treaded dowels can be removed with a slide hammer.
I changed the o-ring on my half nut lever which was cut and leaking from the factory... This video just caused a flood of repressed memories of the whole ordeal.
Great video Quinn, far more organized than I was. Probably the same amount of profanity used in the process I'm imagining.
You have the same manufacture of lathe as mine, albeit branded differently. This video has taught me a lot about how to strip it when the inevitable happen. I'm almost looking forward to you damaging the main gearbox so we can see how that comes apart. I suspect with much more difficulty!
Seriously thank you so much for showing your failures and following it with a how to! your content is awesome!
A glorious un-crashing!
Was the part you straightened hardened or just mild steel?
Your openness about the ENTIRE process is refreshing. Some people were born master machinists, apparently.
The beautiful thing about buying a lathe from the 1940's that has been sitting in a shop neglected and abandoned is, the first thing you get to do is learn how to completely DCOA the machine before you can use it.
When you said "Well there's your problem " I genuinely thought you were going to say "Ain't got no gas in it.". 😂
Regarding pins , roll pins, taper pins, shear pins, cotters etc, the worst car example I know is the Austin 7 front king pin cotter pins. Unless you know how they work you can not get them out. The king pin is round of course and sits in the stub axle. The cotter that locks it in isn't a standard tapered cotter, instead it has a half moon cutout in it. You put that through the side of the stub axle first, line up the half moon with the hole then drop the king pin through. Then you can do up the nut on the cotter to tighten it all. Undoing it you need to just loosen the nut to release the pin (good luck after 90 years on an original) and slide the king pin out. But externally it looks like a normal cotter you can just tap though. You never can though, the half moon holds it captive. Not sure where else that system is used but unless you know that's what it is it a real puzzler! I don't think you truly own a lathe until you have made a part for a lathe on itself! Bonus points if the part you make is one that typically renders the lathe unusable without it!
Hola Blondi;
Este magnifico video-tutorial de como desrarmar el delantal de tu torno me ha servido de mucho. A mi tambien se me ha torcido el eje principal y... se ha coronado el pequeño engranaje que hce mover el delantal. A parte de que se ha fisurado la propia caja del delantal; con lo cual: o le hago una reparación 'sui generi' modo de un muy buen refuerzo, o... me tocará comprar un delantal nuevo. Todo dependerá del precio del recambio.
Me gustas porque eres una persona, casi tan, atrevida como yo, de tal manera que te atreves con todo.
Edito;
A tu forma de recuperación del eje sólo le veo el inconveniente que al calentarlo ha perdido el temple y ello requiere volver a darle temple, con el inconveniente de no saber el grado de dureza que tenía de origen. Es mejor enderezarlo en frio.
Si algún día, nunca se sabe, pasas por Barcelona estaría encantado que nos visitaras al moto-club La Moto Clássica.
Hello Blondi;
This magnificent video tutorial on how to disassemble the apron of your lathe has been very useful to me. I also had the main shaft twisted and... the small gear that makes the apron move has been crowned. Apart from the fact that the apron box itself has cracked; therefore: either I do a 'sui generi' repair in the form of a very good reinforcement, or... I will have to buy a new apron. Everything will depend on the price of the replacement.
I like you because you are a person almost as daring as I am, so much so that you dare to do everything.
Edit;
The only drawback I see in your way of recovering the shaft is that when it is heated it has lost its temper and this requires tempering it again, with the inconvenience of not knowing the degree of hardness it had from the beginning. It is better to straighten it when cold.
If one day, you never know, you pass through Barcelona I would be delighted if you visited us at the La Moto Clássica motorcycle club.
Greeting: Toti
Don't forget to pre-start that roll pin in the gear next time! I use that trick often because my hands often aren't steady enough to hold the roll pin in a tight space, especially over an open oil sump!!
Pig mat also works really good in cadaver lab. Just in case anyone was wondering. Sorry kinda morbid but true
I liked Cleon's idea with vise, especially if you had Made In Poland's hydraulic monstrosity that moonlights as a press, but bent is bent, perfection isn't possible. Maybe a large chisel to apply the force in smaller area? What if you had Abom79's flame welding rig to add metal, and then reground it to diameter?........
Great repair.
One thing is for sure. I don't want to be in the neighborhood the day you make a metric fist :-)
I think the big issue alot of people have, myself included is being intimidated by their own machines. In the past I've just left things well alone because of the fear of making things worse than when I started. And believe me this has happened a few times. I just think to myself, why did you get involved?! Now its completely f*****!
However, you'll never learn anything if you dont take these leaps of faith. Sometimes it'll work great like Quinn here and sometimes you'll make it worse. But its a learning curve,
The saying; "The comfort zone is a beautiful place, but nothing ever grows there." definitely applies to us machine hobbists. Get out there and embrace the learning curve!
All these years, that's the first time anyone explained the story behind "detergent" oils. I am old enough to remember when these first appeared!
I'll cop to having a laugh at your expense about 17:58, but only because I'm certain I already have or inevitably will do something similar. All in all though as long as it was a bent shaft and not a damaged Sprocket it's all just metal and that can be fixed.
That was kind of you to stage that with the lack of room and the drill press so we could see what to do if there isn't enough room for something. I also think it helps others be less frustrated when things come up because if Quinn struggles it's okay if I do. That was brilliant of you;)
Also, aren't you worried that you might have accidentally hardened the mild steel pinion by heating it like that? Especially with acetylene since it makes a LOT of soot and soot is carbon and carbon hardens steel. You might have accidentally made a part that Elon is missing for Space X. Shhhh! Don't tell!
YES! , ALRIGHT, glad it was a easy , simple fix !
I cant believe you think grease smells worse than rear end /gear oil , that smells like sewage
ROCK ON
Mike