Hello.... I don't remember doing anything clever... I think I pushed it together and my son assisting fitted the nuts to the stud-bars, a ratchet strap might be one way of compressing/holding it while you fit the nuts....all the best.....Trevor
Hello I don't think I did to be honest... there wasn't any need to as the welded on "Tee bar" had broke off, I pulled the ram out that way... I would think it's screwed on the piston is alloy so if it's tight remove the seal and maybe warm it up with a blow lamp and before the heat spreads to the steel ram unscrew it quickly mind the hot metal! Cheers.....Trevor
That’s interesting as I am looking at buying this model of Alko splitter as it says it’s made in Austria from what I have managed to find out. I suspected it’s another badge engineered generic log splitter from the Far East. Alko kit used to be well made 😳
Hi there wondering if you can help me out. I have a forest master pretty much similar to your. The motor runs put the hydraulic ram will not engage at all. I have checked for any blockages and the pump seems fine can you help me out
Hello Peter....from memory it's a few years back now.... I used a black silicone gasket in a tube from the local car parts shop.... I did clean the mating surfaces with brake cleaner to de-grease them.... all the best....Trevor
Hello mate the alloy ends on mine came off with a good whack from a hide mallet if you don’t have one you could use a hammer to hit a bit of hardwood..... the ends are sealed with a black silicon gasket sealant from a auto parts store.... Once you get the end off you can just pull the ram out..... cheers Trev
Hi Trev, Firstly, I have NOT removed the alloy end that contains the valve, at the pump end, or the valve assembly. I have removed the 4 acorn nuts, as well as the nuts on the 2 "pull" rods. I have the steel body anchored, and am using my all terrain vehicle's 2500 lb winch, but still cannot pull the ram assembly out of the internal cylinder, without breaking my rope. The alloy end is pulled clear of the steel body, just enough for me to see the end of the return spring. My ram is not broken....I just need to replace the seal. Your advise would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! Bryan, from Nova Scotia, Canada
Hello Bryan .... I would have thought the ends with the 4 main bolts removed or at least nuts all removed as well as the M14 "pusher" nuts removed the alloy ends should tap off with a brass/alloy drift powered with a hammer or mallet the shock tends to work better than pulling... unless your splitter ain't quite the same and has a hidden retaining pin or bolt best have a good look...All the best... a recovering from Covid...Trevor!
@@jetblack11td Hope you mend to 100%, Trevor. My latest pull attempt has caused the cylinder tube to move to the "open" end, as it is now covering the spring. Still no luck, so I'll need to remove the valve block, next. Mine is a King Canada version, bur the hydraulic assembly is identical to yours. I have the exploded view drawing, which certainly does not show fine details, but does show all parts, as it accompanies a full parts list. We are having a cold snap, and my shed is unheated. I'll come back with my findings, when it warms up. Thanks for now.
I'm sure you'll win in the end Bryan... we have had a cold snap here too about minus 4/5 Degrees C and a couple of inches of snow! laughable if you live in Canada!! we really can't cope here...Cheers....Trevor
@@jetblack11td Hi Trevor, I got it apart. I didn't have a straight pull, so I ended up putting a long, subtle bend in the the rod, which has since been rectified. Everything is identical to the one in this video, and appears to be in good condition. There is an inner o-ring and an outer plastic seal, in the groove in the piston disk. Both have a "cut" in them, for ease of assembly, I suppose (Can you confirm this? At 2:32 of your video, I believe that I see an oblique cut). The butt ends of the o-ring come right together, but there seems to be a piece missing from the plastic seal, causing a gap, which would explain why the rod seal was leaking so badly, as the tank itself was pressurized. When I screwed the piston disk off of the rod, the hollow rod itself was full of hydraulic fluid. Again, I suppose due to the leaking piston seal. I have o-rings and seals ordered, and I fully expect the ones for the piston the be truncated, as the piston disk is a single, machined part. Thanks for now, Bryan (PS - Happy Winter!!)
Thanks. I couldn’t believe when I’ve seen so many identical to the Alko!
Hi, how did you compress the spring/piston to put it back in ? DO you have a video doing that or pictures?
Hello.... I don't remember doing anything clever... I think I pushed it together and my son assisting fitted the nuts to the stud-bars, a ratchet strap might be one way of compressing/holding it while you fit the nuts....all the best.....Trevor
How did you get the piston head off the ram rod?
Hello I don't think I did to be honest... there wasn't any need to as the welded on "Tee bar" had broke off, I pulled the ram out that way... I would think it's screwed on the piston is alloy so if it's tight remove the seal and maybe warm it up with a blow lamp and before the heat spreads to the steel ram unscrew it quickly mind the hot metal! Cheers.....Trevor
5hp hydraulic wood splitter diagram
That’s interesting as I am looking at buying this model of Alko splitter as it says it’s made in Austria from what I have managed to find out. I suspected it’s another badge engineered generic log splitter from the Far East.
Alko kit used to be well made 😳
Definitely Chinese made...Alko is like many other brands get it made in China.....
Hi there wondering if you can help me out.
I have a forest master pretty much similar to your. The motor runs put the hydraulic ram will not engage at all. I have checked for any blockages and the pump seems fine can you help me out
How did you seal the both ends of the splitter? I used liquid seal, but the oil is rinning out.
Hello Peter....from memory it's a few years back now.... I used a black silicone gasket in a tube from the local car parts shop.... I did clean the mating surfaces with brake cleaner to de-grease them.... all the best....Trevor
My handle came of the splitter and now it does not push forward. Any ideas of videos on how to fix it?
Hello Glynn surely a case of bolting it back on or has the handle broken? would mend with a spot of welding...All the Best ...Trevor
Hello mate the alloy ends on mine came off with a good whack from a hide mallet if you don’t have one you could use a hammer to hit a bit of hardwood..... the ends are sealed with a black silicon gasket sealant from a auto parts store....
Once you get the end off you can just pull the ram out..... cheers Trev
Hi Trev, Firstly, I have NOT removed the alloy end that contains the valve, at the pump end, or the valve assembly. I have removed the 4 acorn nuts, as well as the nuts on the 2 "pull" rods. I have the steel body anchored, and am using my all terrain vehicle's 2500 lb winch, but still cannot pull the ram assembly out of the internal cylinder, without breaking my rope. The alloy end is pulled clear of the steel body, just enough for me to see the end of the return spring. My ram is not broken....I just need to replace the seal. Your advise would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! Bryan, from Nova Scotia, Canada
Hello Bryan .... I would have thought the ends with the 4 main bolts removed or at least nuts all removed as well as the M14 "pusher" nuts removed the alloy ends should tap off with a brass/alloy drift powered with a hammer or mallet the shock tends to work better than pulling... unless your splitter ain't quite the same and has a hidden retaining pin or bolt best have a good look...All the best... a recovering from Covid...Trevor!
@@jetblack11td Hope you mend to 100%, Trevor. My latest pull attempt has caused the cylinder tube to move to the "open" end, as it is now covering the spring. Still no luck, so I'll need to remove the valve block, next. Mine is a King Canada version, bur the hydraulic assembly is identical to yours. I have the exploded view drawing, which certainly does not show fine details, but does show all parts, as it accompanies a full parts list. We are having a cold snap, and my shed is unheated. I'll come back with my findings, when it warms up. Thanks for now.
I'm sure you'll win in the end Bryan... we have had a cold snap here too about minus 4/5 Degrees C and a couple of inches of snow! laughable if you live in Canada!! we really can't cope here...Cheers....Trevor
@@jetblack11td Hi Trevor, I got it apart. I didn't have a straight pull, so I ended up putting a long, subtle bend in the the rod, which has since been rectified. Everything is identical to the one in this video, and appears to be in good condition. There is an inner o-ring and an outer plastic seal, in the groove in the piston disk. Both have a "cut" in them, for ease of assembly, I suppose (Can you confirm this? At 2:32 of your video, I believe that I see an oblique cut). The butt ends of the o-ring come right together, but there seems to be a piece missing from the plastic seal, causing a gap, which would explain why the rod seal was leaking so badly, as the tank itself was pressurized. When I screwed the piston disk off of the rod, the hollow rod itself was full of hydraulic fluid. Again, I suppose due to the leaking piston seal. I have o-rings and seals ordered, and I fully expect the ones for the piston the be truncated, as the piston disk is a single, machined part. Thanks for now, Bryan (PS - Happy Winter!!)