Another great video. I've watched quite a few of them. Thanks for taking the time to put these up. I'd like to make a suggestion with respect to reinstalling the pricker lever. The cleaning lever shaft can't be pulled out through the packing, but nothing stops it from being pushed inward if the packing nut is backed off. Once you have everything lined up, instead of cranking in on the packing nut, push in on the cleaning lever shaft while wiggling it back and forth a bit until you can detect engagement with the pricker rod. Once it engages, then tighten the packing nut. This would elevate the possibility of bending the end of the shaft if it isn't actually engaged into the hole in the rod. I have to add a disclaimer that I've never worked on, or tried this on s R55 generator. There might be a reason that this might not work. Let me know whatya think? 🤔
Love your vids. Very informative and helped me a couple times now - thank you! Question regarding this vid - the pre heater cup you're using on the R55 generator. I would like to add one to my CQ lamp that runs a R55, but I'm having problems determining the exact cup I need. I'd like one that fits nicely like your vid shows. I'm finding numerous cups on Old Coleman Parts and eBay, but can't determine if they'll fit well on a R55 - help! 🙂
I have purchased a 130K lamp and it has a R55 on it WITHOUT the preheat cup. Your videos are very helpful. Would you make a video on lighting the lamp with the R55? And Should I purchase a preheat cup as well. This is my first lamp so I’m new at this and will be tearing it down and rebuilding it
Check out my theory of operation video for kerosene lanterns. The lighting procedure I show there is the same for lamps. You'll need to preheat the generator for lighting, so you'll either need to locate a preheat cup or preheat with a propane torch. You can't light a kero lantern or lamp without preheat as it'll flood and you'll have fire everywhere. ruclips.net/video/K4b7hq0V368/видео.html
Hi Bill, I have a question regarding the 168K. Is the brass fuel tube from the fount to the valve brazed to the fount bung, or does it thread out? On mine, it looks like the fount, square bung, & fuel tube are brazed together. I'm thinking there must be a way to remove the fuel pickup tube from the fount, but perhaps not. I don't want to damage anything trying to remove the tube. Great video! I'll have to go through this process with my R55 generator soon.
I've never found a parts diagram of the 168K, but as far as I can tell, the pick-up is brazed or soldered to the bung and not removable. I've got quite a few and on some you can see the top bit of threads where the pick-up/riser threads into the square bung, but they don't seem to unscrew. Granted, I haven't pushed it, because I didn't want to destroy anything. I did try a little heat at the joint once, but it still didn't want to unthread. When cleaning up one of these, I typically run a long round brush down and into the fount, but they're not prone to clogging.
@@king.coleman Thanks for your reply! This is my first-ever Coleman table lamp, & first-ever kerosene appliance, so it's mostly familiar, with a bit of unfamiliar thrown in.
I recently took apart a military lantern 252 with quadrant glass. I cleaned the generator as much as I could but when I lit the mantle, it would barely light. Do you think I could heat up the generator with a torch to clean it out? I believe my 252 is a late 60's or early 70's. The 252 military lanterns have a curved generator, no cleaning rod.
I can't speak with any authority on Milspecs. They don't often make their way up here to Canada and I've never worked on one. I know that Milspecs lack a roto-style cleaning needle and have to be poked from the outside with a cleaning tool. If that doesn't work, then cleaning the generator is probably the next step. Heating and quenching is usually necessary to free up internal components when they're clogged with carbon and I don't believe that's going to be an issue with a Milspec. I'd probably soak it in a mild acid or carburettor cleaner, then scrub it out with a brush. If it's brass, it should be able to handle heating and quenching (but don't quote me on that!), but I believe some Milspec generators are aluminum. You don't want to heat aluminum with a torch. I'd recommend searching the Coleman Collectors' Forum for Milspec info and if you don't find what you're looking for, you can ask and they guys over there will be more than happy to help.
@@king.coleman Yes the generator is an aluminum one stuffed with what looks like cotton or white wool. I will soak it in carburetor cleaner and see if that works. If all else fails I will have to order a new one. Also I had written to you on my 200A where it is working fine but when I turn the lever up it will not go out or dim out. I checked the cleaning wire and sure enough it was bent, bent bad! I have no idea how it bent inside of the generator. Thanks again for answering and helping out!
As King Coleman mentioned you are required to remove the generator and manually clean the tip. The parts well originally housed a tool for that, but you can also use the cleaning rod from a discarded 200a generator. I had one that wouldn’t burn correctly after tip cleaning so I took a fine wire cleaning pick/punch and carefully removed a VERY small amount of packing from the intake of the generator. That apparently removed a construction that was causing decreased fuel flow and fixed the problem.
Bill, do you have any tips on removing the picker wire? I followed your video to the point where you push it out. Mine is stuck and pushing it out from the shoulder is damaging it.
Assuming the whole thing isn't bent, I can think of two things that could cause that. It may be that the cleaning lever needs to back out a little further or there could be carbon buildup causing it to stick. If it's carbon build-up, I'd heat and quench a few times and flush it with water or carb cleaner.
@@king.colemanyep, carbon build up, I had to back out the picker nut more. Getting it back in was tough. I stuck the picker base onto a big qtip. Then I could control and feel where the hole was. I wrapped the picker wire with solder wick. It runs great now, no flicker. Thanks for your help.
The R-55 generator was designed to burn both gas and kerosene. The difference is in the lamp or lantern. Kerosene models require a bit less oxygen and have a reducer in the air tube. That said, since nothing that uses an R-55 generator has an Instant-Lite circuit, you can burn either fuel, you'll just find that kerosene models may not be quite as bright when burning gas. They were designed to be run indoors.
They we designed to use indoors, but remember houses years ago were not nearly as tight as today, so a little common sense like cracking a window or door would be wise, and a CO monitor as well. as a test I ran 3 kerosene lanterns for 5 hours in a 24x24 garage closed up, and the monitor registered 0ppm for 4-1/2 hours and 1ppm in the last 30 minutes. All the lanterns had fresh clean generators and were burning optimally. Remember there are a lot of variables to these, I would consider them as safe as the average unvented gas kitchen range. I wouldn’t leave one running and go to sleep.
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Another great video. I've watched quite a few of them. Thanks for taking the time to put these up.
I'd like to make a suggestion with respect to reinstalling the pricker lever. The cleaning lever shaft can't be pulled out through the packing, but nothing stops it from being pushed inward if the packing nut is backed off. Once you have everything lined up, instead of cranking in on the packing nut, push in on the cleaning lever shaft while wiggling it back and forth a bit until you can detect engagement with the pricker rod. Once it engages, then tighten the packing nut. This would elevate the possibility of bending the end of the shaft if it isn't actually engaged into the hole in the rod.
I have to add a disclaimer that I've never worked on, or tried this on s R55 generator. There might be a reason that this might not work.
Let me know whatya think? 🤔
Great video! You are so thorough and well spoken. Very easy to absorb the info you are sharing. Thank you.
Great video! Just what I was looking for. I would have dropped the tip down the drain though!
Love your vids. Very informative and helped me a couple times now - thank you! Question regarding this vid - the pre heater cup you're using on the R55 generator. I would like to add one to my CQ lamp that runs a R55, but I'm having problems determining the exact cup I need. I'd like one that fits nicely like your vid shows. I'm finding numerous cups on Old Coleman Parts and eBay, but can't determine if they'll fit well on a R55 - help! 🙂
I just looked at the OCP website and don't see cup suitable for an R55 there. I plan one of these days to make a how-to video on making preheat cups.
I've heard elsewhere that citric acid/vinegar can damage the graphite packing material. Thoughts?
Yes, for the larger valve stem packings. I've never had a problem with these smaller generator packings.
Very good video! I’m about to tear into a QL lamp and a 327 lantern, so this will be a big help
These are such informative, easy to follow videos. Thanks.
I have purchased a 130K lamp and it has a R55 on it WITHOUT the preheat cup. Your videos are very helpful. Would you make a video on lighting the lamp with the R55? And Should I purchase a preheat cup as well. This is my first lamp so I’m new at this and will be tearing it down and rebuilding it
Check out my theory of operation video for kerosene lanterns. The lighting procedure I show there is the same for lamps. You'll need to preheat the generator for lighting, so you'll either need to locate a preheat cup or preheat with a propane torch. You can't light a kero lantern or lamp without preheat as it'll flood and you'll have fire everywhere.
ruclips.net/video/K4b7hq0V368/видео.html
Hi Bill, I have a question regarding the 168K. Is the brass fuel tube from the fount to the valve brazed to the fount bung, or does it thread out? On mine, it looks like the fount, square bung, & fuel tube are brazed together. I'm thinking there must be a way to remove the fuel pickup tube from the fount, but perhaps not. I don't want to damage anything trying to remove the tube. Great video! I'll have to go through this process with my R55 generator soon.
I've never found a parts diagram of the 168K, but as far as I can tell, the pick-up is brazed or soldered to the bung and not removable. I've got quite a few and on some you can see the top bit of threads where the pick-up/riser threads into the square bung, but they don't seem to unscrew. Granted, I haven't pushed it, because I didn't want to destroy anything. I did try a little heat at the joint once, but it still didn't want to unthread. When cleaning up one of these, I typically run a long round brush down and into the fount, but they're not prone to clogging.
@@king.coleman Thanks for your reply! This is my first-ever Coleman table lamp, & first-ever kerosene appliance, so it's mostly familiar, with a bit of unfamiliar thrown in.
Thank you King Coleman for the well put together and informative video.
I have a recently found cq lamp and was wondering if it can run kerosene with a pre heat cup? I has the same generator as in your video.
Yes, with an R55 generator and preheating it will run kerosene just fine.
Another great informative video
Is the brush you are using nylon bristle?
Yes
Informative. Thank you.
Hey bill could you do a video on how to fix a clogged 1919 akron model 92 generator
Someone will have to send me one. We don't see Akron's up here in Canada very often.
I recently took apart a military lantern 252 with quadrant glass. I cleaned the generator as much as I could but when I lit the mantle, it would barely light. Do you think I could heat up the generator with a torch to clean it out? I believe my 252 is a late 60's or early 70's. The 252 military lanterns have a curved generator, no cleaning rod.
I can't speak with any authority on Milspecs. They don't often make their way up here to Canada and I've never worked on one. I know that Milspecs lack a roto-style cleaning needle and have to be poked from the outside with a cleaning tool. If that doesn't work, then cleaning the generator is probably the next step. Heating and quenching is usually necessary to free up internal components when they're clogged with carbon and I don't believe that's going to be an issue with a Milspec. I'd probably soak it in a mild acid or carburettor cleaner, then scrub it out with a brush. If it's brass, it should be able to handle heating and quenching (but don't quote me on that!), but I believe some Milspec generators are aluminum. You don't want to heat aluminum with a torch. I'd recommend searching the Coleman Collectors' Forum for Milspec info and if you don't find what you're looking for, you can ask and they guys over there will be more than happy to help.
@@king.coleman Yes the generator is an aluminum one stuffed with what looks like cotton or white wool. I will soak it in carburetor cleaner and see if that works. If all else fails I will have to order a new one. Also I had written to you on my 200A where it is working fine but when I turn the lever up it will not go out or dim out. I checked the cleaning wire and sure enough it was bent, bent bad! I have no idea how it bent inside of the generator. Thanks again for answering and helping out!
As King Coleman mentioned you are required to remove the generator and manually clean the tip. The parts well originally housed a tool for that, but you can also use the cleaning rod from a discarded 200a generator. I had one that wouldn’t burn correctly after tip cleaning so I took a fine wire cleaning pick/punch and carefully removed a VERY small amount of packing from the intake of the generator. That apparently removed a construction that was causing decreased fuel flow and fixed the problem.
13:17 😲
Where did you get your brush set? In the end, is it running on gasoline or kerosine?
I believe the brush set came from Amazon. The lamp is burning kerosene.
@@king.coleman I was able to find your exact set. Thanks! I am looking forward to cleaning my 99 and 55s. Thank You!
Bill, do you have any tips on removing the picker wire? I followed your video to the point where you push it out. Mine is stuck and pushing it out from the shoulder is damaging it.
Assuming the whole thing isn't bent, I can think of two things that could cause that. It may be that the cleaning lever needs to back out a little further or there could be carbon buildup causing it to stick. If it's carbon build-up, I'd heat and quench a few times and flush it with water or carb cleaner.
@@king.colemanyep, carbon build up, I had to back out the picker nut more. Getting it back in was tough. I stuck the picker base onto a big qtip. Then I could control and feel where the hole was. I wrapped the picker wire with solder wick. It runs great now, no flicker. Thanks for your help.
Wow...are these white gas or kerosene ? Safe to use in doors? in a emergency?
The R-55 generator was designed to burn both gas and kerosene. The difference is in the lamp or lantern. Kerosene models require a bit less oxygen and have a reducer in the air tube. That said, since nothing that uses an R-55 generator has an Instant-Lite circuit, you can burn either fuel, you'll just find that kerosene models may not be quite as bright when burning gas. They were designed to be run indoors.
They we designed to use indoors, but remember houses years ago were not nearly as tight as today, so a little common sense like cracking a window or door would be wise, and a CO monitor as well. as a test I ran 3 kerosene lanterns for 5 hours in a 24x24 garage closed up, and the monitor registered 0ppm for 4-1/2 hours and 1ppm in the last 30 minutes. All the lanterns had fresh clean generators and were burning optimally. Remember there are a lot of variables to these, I would consider them as safe as the average unvented gas kitchen range. I wouldn’t leave one running and go to sleep.