Very good, My load is 250 gr with 30 grains BP, double cardboard spacer and 1 felt lubed spacer. Have been shooting them for about 8-9 years. Its a blast
You can buy bullets from Misouri bullet co that already has black powder lube on them. Recently i'm using Hodgdon triple seven in my 45 Colt cartridges. Black powder smoke and sound but easier to clean up. You can also use regular bullets with triple seven. 30 grain by volume and a 250gr Misouri RNFP gives me a 10 shot ragged hole at 15m with my 5.5" cattleman.
I like using the PRS "Big Lube" bullets. I get mine precast and lubed with SPG(?) from Whytes Leatherworks. Very accurate in my Pietta and Uberti and plenty of lube.
Greetings from Ireland. Great video. You may need to re-load those spent cartridges in case any cousins of the high fructose gang show up. Thanks for the tip on washing your hands in cold water, I'll remember that for sure.
Crisco (the solid kind in the can) and bees wax. 75/25 in winter and switch it up in summer 25% Crisco and 75% bees wax. Mix it 50/50 in spring and fall temps. Much cheaper on your wallet.
beeswax and lard... melt the 2 in boiling water and skim the ingredients off the top - this way you do not have to worry about flash points or fires...just find a mix that is easy to work with and will not melt in your climate, about 10% lard to 90% bees wax is about right - more important to be sure and pick a bullet with large, wide lube bands. you need to get as much lube on yer bullets as possible.
Using a lubbed wad under the bullet is just good sense. The wad acts as a brillo pad to the barrel. It scrubbs any lead out of the barrel. Always a smart choice!
I can confirm the lubing the front of the chamber method works. Honestly it's more effective than lubed balls or wads, particularly in cap and ball conversions with non fixed head spacing like 1847 Walkers, 1851 Navy's, and 1860 armies. The lubed bullets and wads just don't lube the forcing cone as well as chamber lube.
I get my bullets from Missouri Bullet. When I prep bullets for 45 Colt BP loads I take one of my gun cookie sheets and put a piece of paper towel on it with the bullets on top. Turn the oven on its lowest setting and put the cookie sheet in the over. After about 20 minutes the lube has melted off. I just dump them on another paper towel and roll off the traces of lube. After they cool off I pan lube them with home made BP lube. I use the Emmerts with lanolin recipe. When loading I use a LEE PPM to dispense the powder (33g Goex fffg) then place a DIY over powder card and DIY felt wad that has been soaked in the Emmerts lube. Works great!
well this was a very good video and easy to understand. I wanted to find a good black powder load. Lee manual did not have any black powder loads. BUT I have a very old "Metallic Cartridge Reloading" (Robert Anderson and Ed Matunas).. it is old. IT has a black powder load for 45 Colt 35 grains of FFg G.O.I. powder and a 255 grain cast lead bullet. (he did not talk about lube but your lube advise is well taken and ought to be followed). Ed Matunas is a great (credible ) source of load data. He said this load is 550 FPM (well that will not hurt a Ruger or almost all gun made today) That is the ONLY load he includes. (you used a 250 gr cast lead .452) [well Lee does have a black powder section on p149 but no loading data] Matunas did not recommend wads or padding.. Lee (interesting) said lubes have been everything from lard to bear fat. But your lube (Uncle Mikes) is more readily available than bear fat. We may be faced with a period in which are forced to use back powder. Then we'd need to work up a hotter load for the long rifle barrel. You could increase the load in increments (but a chronograph would make it easier to figure out) PS G.O.I. is no longer made so your brand seems to be the same load and probably similar ballistics. You load is not harming a gun in any way.
I have found that using 20:1 lead tin mix/alloy shoots better than hard cast bullets. Also, my guns like multiple grooves or Big Lube Bullets keep the bore cleaner and the fouling softer. I shoot competition so I do things a little different than you do, but you did an excellent job for someone who just wants to try out an old west black powder cartridge to see how it feels to shoot one.
I completely agree about the bullets. These bullets are just easy to get in my neck of the woods. However, I’ll soon be casting my own with multiple lube grooves and I’m really looking forward to that. Thanks for watching!
I make my own black powder lube with bees wax and 5w-20 motor oil. I also make my own bullets with all Lee molds which for .45-70 I have original style bullets meant for black powder but lately my favorite .45 colt bullets for pistols is lees 228 grain round nose bullets and they have 2 decent sized lube grooves and I would say you could load them with black powder and they would work great
You can also lube your bullets in a lube sizer like Lyman's 450. I have a 450 dedicated for BP Lube. My lube is made from Beeswax and crisco and add or subtract beeswax to make the lube harder or softer as you see fit. I've also used SPG.
Lee Tumble lube bullet molds are good for black powder since they have many lube grooves. I just roll them over a lubed surface and wipe the ends. And a good way to judge having enough lube is seeing how much leading your barrel is forming. Tip: remove modern lube from bullets by putting a bunch on a cookie sheet/pan and a paper towel, then oven heat them to about 250 F and you're done. Let 'em cool before handling... Caution! Powder-coated bullets are not ever recommended! For example, the black color has titanium particles in it. That's cool for a jeep bumper, but How is that helping your rather delicate gun barrel? Anything forced down the barrel harder than brass or copper will erode your barrel and accuracy. Barrel steel is not very hard like tool steel. It must flex and expand slightly to prevent cracking/splitting over time. Just because everyone's doing something doesn't make it smart...
Don't use hard cast bullets. You should also use bullets sized to be at least .001" bigger than bore diameter. That means you have to slug the bore to find out what the size is. My Ruger is .453" so I use .454" bullets. Also, because of the way black powder works, you want a softer alloy because BP 'boots up' the bullet in the bore. For proper 1873 period alloy and bullet type, go to www.cowboybullets.com (Desperado Bullets). They have a RNFP 250 gr. of 1:20 alloy (same as used by the factory in 1870s) and lubed with a proper lube for black powder. The bullet is based on the original factory bullet.
If I use Missouri #1"Black powder" bullets that already are lubbed with BP lub for BP is it recommended to use additional lub as in video or is lub on bullet adequate? Love the video! THANKS
I don't own any firearm but I've always been fascinated by black powder weapons. This was a very informative video! Just curious -- in my daily life, I use a digital scale (accurate to 0.01g) for my diet items and it would seem to me that having a scale would be more accurate and consistent than using that tube like device that you had for dispensing the powder into the case. Another thing -- is it necessary to have ALL the equipment you had such as this press? Somehow I thought there were some devices that used a hammer (or something like that) rather than the press but I could be entirely wrong. Thank you though for the video. I learned a few things and that was the 1st video I've seen where someone actually shoots a black powder gun! They DO create a lot of smoke!
The hand tool you mentioned os the Lee Loader, sometimes referred to as the “Whack a Mole” You do use a hammer to use it. A lot of folks started out with this very basic tool, and it works.
I bought it at a Sportsman’s Warehouse, but I haven’t seen any for a long time. I now offer my own and it will be back in stock soon. Here’s the link to my online store: gunsoftheweststore.com
I like loading for back powder but the down fall is the brass is ruined for apperance after the first firing. I've tried tumbling dry and wet process and never have I had any luck getting the brass clean without major blemishes to the brass. Any suggestions would be really nice!
Great video Dustin. Question, do you happen to know anywhere I could find data for .45acp cowboy loads? I have a .45acp conversion cylinder for my pietta 1858 and would like to make some black powder rounds with a lee 200 grain conical bullet. Thanks in advance.
Guns of the West I have a question I wanted to shoot inaccurate but I love my 50 caliber Muzzleloader using a sabot what would you recommend for deer hunting please and thanks
Great Video Dustin! I would love to see you load some Black MZ into 45 Colt and chrono those results. I'm curious what lube you would use and other reloading methods.
@@GunsOfTheWest I have loaded my own 45 Colt loads with Black MZ. I used a 2.2 cc dipper (weighted in at 27.5 gr by wt) and a card stock powder/bullet separator. I used the Lyman 454194 seated to 1.6, NO LUBE, bullets were powder coated clear (to look authentic). I clocked almost 900 fps out of a 5 inch bbl. The recoil was pretty stiff and I measured pressure (I can do that) -- got 11,900 psi. Smoke and recoil were glorious! Cleanup was a snap, pressure seems safe. YMMV
So I’m new/want to get in to BP, and am curious is there anyway to get a faster reload with cap and balls, with out buying a new cylinder? Like a powder wad ball prebuilt pack you tear open pour the powder with was then ram the ball?
I have a 1876 SAA that was overhauled by specialist Jim Martin. He recommended using less than 200 grain bullets (160?) and keeping the speed down to 600 feet per second to keep pressure way down for such an old gun. How would I load for that?
Will the .35 grains of goex fffg on the loads you did be ok for a Pietta 1858 conversion revolver? Also what is the velocity of that set up on a chrony?
I seem to be lacking info ( i never shot bp but consider geting a uberti cartrige revolver 45 lc (colt) factory conversion open top) what does black powder LUBE in the cartriges do. If you do not feel like writing, can someone post a link to a vid/ article
I would like to get in to doing this. I have a 2 part question, what brand is your pistol and do you have to have a special cylinder to shoot black powder in it? One last thing are you on Full30?
That pistol is a Cimarron, made by Pietta. You don’t need a special cylinder for black powder. Just be sure to clean the gun thoroughly after each use as black powder fouling is fairly corrosive. (I have videos on how to do that.) I’ll be on Full30 soon and I’ll make an announcement on RUclips when my Full30 channel is up and running. It will have the same name as this channel. Thanks for watching!
With 35 grains do you get good powder compression without the wad? My understanding is back in the day they were loaded with 40 grains and if you wanted less powder you went to 2 f or 1.5 f. To get the fill and compression. ? Any thoughts on that?
Hello I have a question for you , by the way I like your videos O.K. the question is I purchased a Pietta black powder 1858 Remington Steel Sheriff .44cal the barrel is 5-1/2 and a Pietta Conversion Cylinder .45LC the question is can I shoot hard cast lead from the gun. I make my own reloads. I have all the molds for all the 45LC I even have the Eras Gone bullet mold from Johnston & Dow Civil War Era .44 caliber revolver in other words can I shoot hard cast bullets from this gun Let me know please I know I have to use the soft lead for the Eras Gone bullet mold but when I use the 45LC conversion cylinder can I shoot hard cast bullets that's the question Can I shoot hard cast bullets from my 45LC conversion cylinder on my Pietta black powder 1858 Remington Steel Sheriff .44cal the barrel is 5-1/2 thank you very much.
To be honest, I’ve never looked into it for a conversion cylinder, but I use hard-cast bullets in my black powder cartridges for my 1873 SAA all the time. The only issue I’ve had with hard-cast bullets is that they don’t hold much lube, so you may need to be creative in how you get enough lube deposited into the bore. Thanks for watching!
Yes you can. Black powder loads have lower chamber pressures than most smokeless powder loads.Now the softer lead bullets may be a little more accurate since they slug up in the bore better.
Yes. However I usually use .45 Schofield Brass and a 230 grain bullet with BP Lube on top of 28 grains of 2fg. 3Fg works as well. Early Conversion cylinders by Howell won't take the .45 Schofield Cartridge. I took 100 Nickeled Winchester cases and trimmed them back to Schofield length so the rims would fit in the recesses.
Dustin, I used to shoot all the time. I have a box of 45s that I made years ago.. I just have gone to shoot 'em. How can I keep my gun for getting fouled/mucked up dirty and jamming after many rounds? I 've seen some guys just with a spray bottle of water and they'll spray their gun down. Is there a better way?
Streetwise Guitar have you ever used balistol before? I have had success with bringing out a can of balistol and just spraying a little between the back of the cylinder and the recoil shields, so it kinda works it’s way onto the axis pin as well as into the hand, bolt, etc. if it gets really gummed up, then I take the cylinder out, quickly wipe off the cylinder axis pin, put some more balistol on it, and then reassemble. Hope this helps!
Great video! Could you make a video on black powder 45-70 loads and the different ways please? That has always been on my "have to try" list. Thank you.
Hi Dustin, Have you heard about "big lube bullets" Yep. Bullets with big lube grooves. The advertising wouldn't hurt them any and you might get a few complementary. I was also wondering if you chamfer or anneal your case mouths. May be time for another video ; )
Hi, James! I’ve seen those bullets and they’re definitely intriguing. The only thing I do to the case mouths is just quickly run them through the expanding die. Thanks for watching!
When you load a SAA, load one, skip one, load four, and then cock the pistol. When you lower the hammer, the firing pin will rest on an empty chamber instead of a live primer. This is done for safety reasons.
Dustin, your original video is no longer available. Would you / Could you delete those links & References? I wasted time trying to locate them. How did you Decide on 35 Grains of Powder as a Load for the 45 L.C.? I'm interested in loading for a 41 Remington Mag. Where would I start other than loading to where seating the bullet to the crimp ring would start compressing the powder load?
I'm not the guy you're asking, but as near as I can tell, when loading with black powder, it's basically impossible to use enough to create a pressure problem. The key is to make sure that there's no air space in the case. So, starting exactly where you suggest in your "where would I start other than" question is actually the place to start. If you want to make lighter loads than that, you can use a filler to take up the space between the bottom of the bullet and the powder. Cream of Wheat and grits are both common filler choices. If you do this, you still need to use enough powder to make sure the bullet gets all the way down the barrel, otherwise you'll get squibs, bore obstructions, and a dangerous situation.
Great video. Brand new sub to your channel. Looking at getting into black powder 45 Colts. I already load 45 colt with smokeless powder and home casted lead. I powder coated my bullets for smokeless. Will they still work with black powder? Has anyone tried them?
I’ve actually never used powder coating on bullets, so I’m not sure what kind of mess you’ll have when it mixes with the black powder fouling in the bore. I’m also not sure how much black powder lube your bullets can hold. Those would be my two concerns. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Powder coated bullets work fine with any propellant. Bullets are slippery and lead the barrel less. However, the grease grooves get filled up more with the coating, so you don't get enough grease into the barrel unless the bullet's a style with a massive groove. Lee have a mould for such a bullet ... they look funny but work well, including if powder coated.
They don't have grooves to hold the lube, so probably not. For a rifle with a tubular magazine you definitely cannot - you need to use flat-nosed bullets or the round nose will bump against the primer of the round in front and could set it off when the rounds are pushed rearward when the action is cycled.
35 grains of Goex is a little anemic - I would normally use 40 grains of Swiss or Old Eynsford, if that was not available I would simply completely fill the case with Goex and compress the load with the bullet. Black powder burns quite well when heavily compressed - such loads are much more satisfactory to shoot. There should be no danger as long as it is a modern steel framed gun.
These revolvers are not safe when the hammer rests on a loaded chamber. If you’re at the range and planning to shoot immediately, loading six is fine, but loading five is a good habit to be in.
If you're asking for legal reasons, in the United States, a firearm designed to use fixed ammunition (bullet, primer, and powder held together by a case) is *generally* still considered a "firearm" by the NFA and GCA, even if it is a firearm that was made before 1899 (or a replica thereof) and loaded with black powder cartridges unless the ammunition for it is no longer manufactured. Since .45 Colt ammunition is still manufactured, any replica of an antique firearm that can fire .45 Colt ammunition is still regulated the same as any modern firearm. However, if it were chambered for .38 Rimfire or .41 Colt (long or short), it would not be regulated as a modern firearm, because those cartridges are no longer commercially produced in the US and probably aren't commercially produced anywhere in the world.
black powder is easy to reload... go with something close to the original bullet weight and pack the cartridge full. the name tells you the load, 45-70 etc but the cartridge was sized for the load back then... in modern guns being off a few grains black powder is not a big deal...
I like the way speak when you describe what to do during the reloading process. I find it soothing, ever thought about public speaking? I bet you'd be good at it. Greetings from 🌴 California 🌴
Could you test these loads against a "meat target"? Layer of pork belly, pork rib, bag of oranges to simulate lung tissue, then another rack of pork ribs followed by skirt steak? This arrangement should approximate the bullets damage to a human target.
This load would prove to be incredibly effective against a target like that. Historic .45 Colt loads, which this is quite similar to, resulted in a 250 grain projectile moving around 850 fps when fired from a pistol length barrel. That results in around 400 ft/lbs of energy at the muzzle. For comparison .45 ACP's standard military load was a 230 grain bullet at around 830 fps, when fired from a 1911, resulting in around 350 ft/lbs of energy at the muzzle.
Hey Dustin, I had a question. It just occurred to me, couldn’t you use a muzzleloading revolver with a cartridge conversion to reload spent brass? Think about it. You put your empty shell into the cylinder through the cut in the recoil shield, you poor the black powder charge and use the loading lever (which is still attached to the gun) and you put a new primer in the shell and turn the cylinder so it can’t back out. And then you have a cartridge! Wouldn’t that work?
No. The reloading dies are what expand the case mouth and seat the bullet to the correct depth. You also need the press or a priming tool to add the primer.
Guns Of The West don’t know about the brass expansion but, if I load 30 grains of black powder and then fill the rest in with corn meal I won’t really have to worry about seating the bullet to the proper depth. Especially if I’m just using a round ball. What if you took a dremel tool and opened up the area in the brass so the primer would have a loose fit. Wax bullet firing kits are that way. The nickel casings are wide enough that primers fall right out the only reason they’d stay in the gun is because the back of the revolver cylinder is there
i really try to get ur point... you unlube then relube... then reframe the case, and reexpend the case... waoh... sounds like a forward-backward step western dance...
Check out the Guns of the West store here: gunsoftheweststore.com
Very good, My load is 250 gr with 30 grains BP, double cardboard spacer and 1 felt lubed spacer. Have been shooting them for about 8-9 years. Its a blast
You can buy bullets from Misouri bullet co that already has black powder lube on them. Recently i'm using Hodgdon triple seven in my 45 Colt cartridges. Black powder smoke and sound but easier to clean up. You can also use regular bullets with triple seven. 30 grain by volume and a 250gr Misouri RNFP gives me a 10 shot ragged hole at 15m with my 5.5" cattleman.
ratscoot what do u usefor primers for colt 45 or schofield rounds loaded with 777 or goex
Once it’s converted can’t u just use regular bullets without black powder?
@@stargod3064 sure, but then you lose the enjoyment of black powder.
You are at 300! Congrats! Great tutorial.
Woohoo! You actually noticed it before I did. LOL!
I like using the PRS "Big Lube" bullets. I get mine precast and lubed with SPG(?) from Whytes Leatherworks. Very accurate in my Pietta and Uberti and plenty of lube.
Greetings from Ireland. Great video. You may need to re-load those spent cartridges in case any cousins of the high fructose gang show up. Thanks for the tip on washing your hands in cold water, I'll remember that for sure.
Bernard Flood, thank you!
Crisco (the solid kind in the can) and bees wax. 75/25 in winter and switch it up in summer 25% Crisco and 75% bees wax. Mix it 50/50 in spring and fall temps. Much cheaper on your wallet.
TheOkWoodsman I've got bees, so I'm good with that.
beeswax and lard... melt the 2 in boiling water and skim the ingredients off the top - this way you do not have to worry about flash points or fires...just find a mix that is easy to work with and will not melt in your climate, about 10% lard to 90% bees wax is about right - more important to be sure and pick a bullet with large, wide lube bands. you need to get as much lube on yer bullets as possible.
@@t.curran8243 What barking dog said.
Using a lubbed wad under the bullet is just good sense. The wad acts as a brillo pad to the barrel. It scrubbs any lead out of the barrel. Always a smart choice!
I can confirm the lubing the front of the chamber method works. Honestly it's more effective than lubed balls or wads, particularly in cap and ball conversions with non fixed head spacing like 1847 Walkers, 1851 Navy's, and 1860 armies. The lubed bullets and wads just don't lube the forcing cone as well as chamber lube.
I agree. Thanks for watching!
I did a BP load on my 44mag and it’s incredible and fun
I get my bullets from Missouri Bullet. When I prep bullets for 45 Colt BP loads I take one of my gun cookie sheets and put a piece of paper towel on it with the bullets on top. Turn the oven on its lowest setting and put the cookie sheet in the over. After about 20 minutes the lube has melted off. I just dump them on another paper towel and roll off the traces of lube. After they cool off I pan lube them with home made BP lube. I use the Emmerts with lanolin recipe. When loading I use a LEE PPM to dispense the powder (33g Goex fffg) then place a DIY over powder card and DIY felt wad that has been soaked in the Emmerts lube. Works great!
Thanks for watching!
You really helped me a lot with my 1851 Pietta so thanks for that
No problem.
Great video, I am glad you made it fast enough to defeat carbonated bandits !
well this was a very good video and easy to understand. I wanted to find a good black powder load. Lee manual did not have any black powder loads. BUT I have a very old "Metallic Cartridge Reloading" (Robert Anderson and Ed Matunas).. it is old. IT has a black powder load for 45 Colt 35 grains of FFg G.O.I. powder and a 255 grain cast lead bullet. (he did not talk about lube but your lube advise is well taken and ought to be followed). Ed Matunas is a great (credible ) source of load data. He said this load is 550 FPM (well that will not hurt a Ruger or almost all gun made today) That is the ONLY load he includes. (you used a 250 gr cast lead .452) [well Lee does have a black powder section on p149 but no loading data] Matunas did not recommend wads or padding.. Lee (interesting) said lubes have been everything from lard to bear fat. But your lube (Uncle Mikes) is more readily available than bear fat. We may be faced with a period in which are forced to use back powder. Then we'd need to work up a hotter load for the long rifle barrel. You could increase the load in increments (but a chronograph would make it easier to figure out) PS G.O.I. is no longer made so your brand seems to be the same load and probably similar ballistics. You load is not harming a gun in any way.
I have found that using 20:1 lead tin mix/alloy shoots better than hard cast bullets. Also, my guns like multiple grooves or Big Lube Bullets keep the bore cleaner and the fouling softer. I shoot competition so I do things a little different than you do, but you did an excellent job for someone who just wants to try out an old west black powder cartridge to see how it feels to shoot one.
I completely agree about the bullets. These bullets are just easy to get in my neck of the woods. However, I’ll soon be casting my own with multiple lube grooves and I’m really looking forward to that. Thanks for watching!
cannoneer155mm I
This has inspired me into Black Powder, Thank you :-)
I love old west guns!
Can a regular Uberti cattleman 1873 in 45 colt take black powder loads? Or do you need a different cylinder?
It’ll shoot them fine. It’ll just be messier than shooting smokeless loads.
What would you say about loading 45acp with pyrodex and a 230 grain lead bullet
Where is the first video located? can't find it!
I make my own black powder lube with bees wax and 5w-20 motor oil. I also make my own bullets with all Lee molds which for .45-70 I have original style bullets meant for black powder but lately my favorite .45 colt bullets for pistols is lees 228 grain round nose bullets and they have 2 decent sized lube grooves and I would say you could load them with black powder and they would work great
Dustin, another great video. Thanks.
Thanks, Johnny!
You can also lube your bullets in a lube sizer like Lyman's 450. I have a 450 dedicated for BP Lube. My lube is made from Beeswax and crisco and add or subtract beeswax to make the lube harder or softer as you see fit. I've also used SPG.
Lee Tumble lube bullet molds are good for black powder since they have many lube grooves. I just roll them over a lubed surface and wipe the ends. And a good way to judge having enough lube is seeing how much leading your barrel is forming. Tip: remove modern lube from bullets by putting a bunch on a cookie sheet/pan and a paper towel, then oven heat them to about 250 F and you're done. Let 'em cool before handling...
Caution! Powder-coated bullets are not ever recommended! For example, the black color has titanium particles in it. That's cool for a jeep bumper, but How is that helping your rather delicate gun barrel? Anything forced down the barrel harder than brass or copper will erode your barrel and accuracy. Barrel steel is not very hard like tool steel. It must flex and expand slightly to prevent cracking/splitting over time. Just because everyone's doing something doesn't make it smart...
Don't use hard cast bullets. You should also use bullets sized to be at least .001" bigger than bore diameter. That means you have to slug the bore to find out what the size is. My Ruger is .453" so I use .454" bullets. Also, because of the way black powder works, you want a softer alloy because BP 'boots up' the bullet in the bore. For proper 1873 period alloy and bullet type, go to www.cowboybullets.com (Desperado Bullets). They have a RNFP 250 gr. of 1:20 alloy (same as used by the factory in 1870s) and lubed with a proper lube for black powder. The bullet is based on the original factory bullet.
John Hull Thanks.
Cesar Garcia Yes, with CAS you just need lots of bullets, accuracy is secondary or never talked about.
Good Video Mr. White
Every time Walter White appears on the Netflix menu, my 15-month-old points and says, “Daddy.” I guess we do look alike. LOL
Looks good.would this work well for a pietta conversion like from Taylor's. Thanks
I would be comfortable using them in that. Thanks for watching!
Do you have a video on loading the .45lc for lever guns???
If I use Missouri #1"Black powder" bullets that already are lubbed with BP lub for BP is it recommended to use additional lub as in video or is lub on bullet adequate? Love the video! THANKS
I don't own any firearm but I've always been fascinated by black powder weapons. This was a very informative video! Just curious -- in my daily life, I use a digital scale (accurate to 0.01g) for my diet items and it would seem to me that having a scale would be more accurate and consistent than using that tube like device that you had for dispensing the powder into the case. Another thing -- is it necessary to have ALL the equipment you had such as this press? Somehow I thought there were some devices that used a hammer (or something like that) rather than the press but I could be entirely wrong.
Thank you though for the video. I learned a few things and that was the 1st video I've seen where someone actually shoots a black powder gun! They DO create a lot of smoke!
Black powder is measured by volume not weight
The hand tool you mentioned os the Lee Loader, sometimes referred to as the “Whack a Mole” You do use a hammer to use it. A lot of folks started out with this very basic tool, and it works.
What model Lee loader are you using in this video? Thanks.
Where did you get your Uncle Mikes bullet lube, looked everywhere.
I bought it at a Sportsman’s Warehouse, but I haven’t seen any for a long time. I now offer my own and it will be back in stock soon. Here’s the link to my online store: gunsoftheweststore.com
I like loading for back powder but the down fall is the brass is ruined for apperance after the first firing. I've tried tumbling dry and wet process and never have I had any luck getting the brass clean without major blemishes to the brass. Any suggestions would be really nice!
Where is the first video located?
Exactly, I must be over looking it too.
Great video Dustin. Question, do you happen to know anywhere I could find data for .45acp cowboy loads? I have a .45acp conversion cylinder for my pietta 1858 and would like to make some black powder rounds with a lee 200 grain conical bullet. Thanks in advance.
Guns of the West I have a question I wanted to shoot inaccurate but I love my 50 caliber Muzzleloader using a sabot what would you recommend for deer hunting please and thanks
Great Video Dustin! I would love to see you load some Black MZ into 45 Colt and chrono those results. I'm curious what lube you would use and other reloading methods.
That’s a good idea! I’ll do that. Thanks for watching!
@@GunsOfTheWest I have loaded my own 45 Colt loads with Black MZ. I used a 2.2 cc dipper (weighted in at 27.5 gr by wt) and a card stock powder/bullet separator. I used the Lyman 454194 seated to 1.6, NO LUBE, bullets were powder coated clear (to look authentic). I clocked almost 900 fps out of a 5 inch bbl. The recoil was pretty stiff and I measured pressure (I can do that) -- got 11,900 psi. Smoke and recoil were glorious! Cleanup was a snap, pressure seems safe. YMMV
So I’m new/want to get in to BP, and am curious is there anyway to get a faster reload with cap and balls, with out buying a new cylinder? Like a powder wad ball prebuilt pack you tear open pour the powder with was then ram the ball?
Paper cartridges. Mr. Winegar has several vids on making them.
Big help. Thanks
can you use these in a conversion cylinder in a steel frame revolver like an 1858 remington?
Good Video!
Dustin, what are your thoughts on doing this with hi-tek coated bullets?
Black powder .45 Long Colt, My favorite!
Thanks for watching!
.45 LONG Colt??? What's that?
@@MercyMinister It's like the .45 Short Colt, but it's a little longer.
Can you use this same load for a conversion cylinder?
Appreciate all your help but would like some others like 38/357 44m
I have a 1876 SAA that was overhauled by specialist Jim Martin. He recommended using less than 200 grain bullets (160?) and keeping the speed down to 600 feet per second to keep pressure way down for such an old gun. How would I load for that?
Now that i know you can make bp brass i may pick one up soon
One more question, can you buy colt 45 cartridges that shoot blanks and put a lead ball in? Because this ammo is so hard to come by.
can the wad lube mix into the black powder over time? if so can you do without the wad just bullet lube and front of chamber lube?
Will the .35 grains of goex fffg on the loads you did be ok for a Pietta 1858 conversion revolver? Also what is the velocity of that set up on a chrony?
I seem to be lacking info ( i never shot bp but consider geting a uberti cartrige revolver 45 lc (colt) factory conversion open top)
what does black powder LUBE in the cartriges do.
If you do not feel like writing, can someone post a link to a vid/ article
When you load black powder loads in 45 colt do you enlarge the flash holes in the cases before putting in the primers?
I don’t. I just use the brass as it is with no trouble. Thanks for watching!
@@GunsOfTheWest okay thanks.
If I wanted to reload for a .45 conversion cylinder for a 1858 Remington cap-and-ball gun, would I just need to reduce the powder charge to 30 grains?
I would like to get in to doing this. I have a 2 part question, what brand is your pistol and do you have to have a special cylinder to shoot black powder in it? One last thing are you on Full30?
That pistol is a Cimarron, made by Pietta. You don’t need a special cylinder for black powder. Just be sure to clean the gun thoroughly after each use as black powder fouling is fairly corrosive. (I have videos on how to do that.) I’ll be on Full30 soon and I’ll make an announcement on RUclips when my Full30 channel is up and running. It will have the same name as this channel. Thanks for watching!
This looks like a good hobby.
It’s lots of fun! Thanks for watching!
Very nice vidéo🤠
Why don't just replace the wads with straight up lube? Would that help?
I’ve tried it and it contaminates the powder.
With 35 grains do you get good powder compression without the wad? My understanding is back in the day they were loaded with 40 grains and if you wanted less powder you went to 2 f or 1.5 f. To get the fill and compression. ? Any thoughts on that?
got to love black powder
I anneal my 45 colt brass after every firing… I am now reloading on each brass cartridge at least 40-50 times.
Try to look up where to buy online Uncle Mike's Hot Shot Patch & Bullet Lube, but could find a site, is that product sold online or just in your area?
Hello I have a question for you , by the way I like your videos O.K. the question is I purchased a Pietta black powder 1858 Remington Steel Sheriff .44cal the barrel is 5-1/2 and a Pietta Conversion Cylinder .45LC the question is can I shoot hard cast lead from the gun. I make my own reloads. I have all the molds for all the 45LC I even have the Eras Gone bullet mold from Johnston & Dow Civil War Era .44 caliber revolver in other words can I shoot hard cast bullets from this gun Let me know please I know I have to use the soft lead for the Eras Gone bullet mold but when I use the 45LC conversion cylinder can I shoot hard cast bullets that's the question Can I shoot hard cast bullets from my 45LC conversion cylinder on my Pietta black powder 1858 Remington Steel Sheriff .44cal the barrel is 5-1/2 thank you very much.
To be honest, I’ve never looked into it for a conversion cylinder, but I use hard-cast bullets in my black powder cartridges for my 1873 SAA all the time. The only issue I’ve had with hard-cast bullets is that they don’t hold much lube, so you may need to be creative in how you get enough lube deposited into the bore. Thanks for watching!
Yes you can. Black powder loads have lower chamber pressures than most smokeless powder loads.Now the softer lead bullets may be a little more accurate since they slug up in the bore better.
Love your videos dude NY ses hey bro
Is this a safe load to use in my Uberti 58 conversion cylinder?
Yes. However I usually use .45 Schofield Brass and a 230 grain bullet with BP Lube on top of 28 grains of 2fg. 3Fg works as well. Early Conversion cylinders by Howell won't take the .45 Schofield Cartridge. I took 100 Nickeled Winchester cases and trimmed them back to Schofield length so the rims would fit in the recesses.
Dustin, I used to shoot all the time. I have a box of 45s that I made years ago.. I just have gone to shoot 'em. How can I keep my gun for getting fouled/mucked up dirty and jamming after many rounds? I 've seen some guys just with a spray bottle of water and they'll spray their gun down. Is there a better way?
Streetwise Guitar have you ever used balistol before? I have had success with bringing out a can of balistol and just spraying a little between the back of the cylinder and the recoil shields, so it kinda works it’s way onto the axis pin as well as into the hand, bolt, etc. if it gets really gummed up, then I take the cylinder out, quickly wipe off the cylinder axis pin, put some more balistol on it, and then reassemble. Hope this helps!
Just curious, with that particular firearm, are you using black powder for authenticity sake as opposed to using a powder like Trail boss?
Same lube process for synthetic black? Black MZ to b exact
Just got a kurst konverter, wanted to make my own rounds.
1.680" OAL works in a Large frame Ruger Blackhawk. 300gr Lee boolit
If you are using pydorex, do you need to remove the lube?
I do.
Great video! Could you make a video on black powder 45-70 loads and the different ways please? That has always been on my "have to try" list.
Thank you.
Hi Dustin, Have you heard about "big lube bullets" Yep. Bullets with big lube grooves. The advertising wouldn't hurt them any and you might get a few complementary. I was also wondering if you chamfer or anneal your case mouths. May be time for another video ; )
Hi, James! I’ve seen those bullets and they’re definitely intriguing. The only thing I do to the case mouths is just quickly run them through the expanding die. Thanks for watching!
How much is a reloading setup just for 44mag
Whyd you skip a chamber
And what make and model revolver
When you load a SAA, load one, skip one, load four, and then cock the pistol. When you lower the hammer, the firing pin will rest on an empty chamber instead of a live primer. This is done for safety reasons.
Dustin, your original video is no longer available. Would you / Could you delete those links & References? I wasted time trying to locate them. How did you Decide on 35 Grains of Powder as a Load for the 45 L.C.? I'm interested in loading for a 41 Remington Mag. Where would I start other than loading to where seating the bullet to the crimp ring would start compressing the powder load?
I'm not the guy you're asking, but as near as I can tell, when loading with black powder, it's basically impossible to use enough to create a pressure problem. The key is to make sure that there's no air space in the case. So, starting exactly where you suggest in your "where would I start other than" question is actually the place to start.
If you want to make lighter loads than that, you can use a filler to take up the space between the bottom of the bullet and the powder. Cream of Wheat and grits are both common filler choices. If you do this, you still need to use enough powder to make sure the bullet gets all the way down the barrel, otherwise you'll get squibs, bore obstructions, and a dangerous situation.
Fill the case with powder and seat a bullet. It will compress enough.
Will Lee Liquid Earwax lube work for black powder?
Great video. Brand new sub to your channel. Looking at getting into black powder 45 Colts. I already load 45 colt with smokeless powder and home casted lead. I powder coated my bullets for smokeless. Will they still work with black powder? Has anyone tried them?
I’ve actually never used powder coating on bullets, so I’m not sure what kind of mess you’ll have when it mixes with the black powder fouling in the bore. I’m also not sure how much black powder lube your bullets can hold. Those would be my two concerns.
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Powder coated bullets work fine with any propellant. Bullets are slippery and lead the barrel less. However, the grease grooves get filled up more with the coating, so you don't get enough grease into the barrel unless the bullet's a style with a massive groove. Lee have a mould for such a bullet ... they look funny but work well, including if powder coated.
So Dustin, how often do you get sprayed with orange soda?
Andrew Gillis Yesh, and how about the yellow jackets in summer?
Where can I purchase empty cartridges?
I can't find part 1 of this episode...
Can't find the part 1 video. Has it been removed?
Unfortunately, it was. This video’s method is better anyway though.
I liked putting wads in mine. Also like to see everybody's method. Thanks for responding though.@@GunsOfTheWest
Can you buy premade bp bullets to avoid doing all this
I’m sure they’re available commercially somewhere, but I’ve never looked for them. Thanks for watching!
Which video is part #1?
Can you use FMJ bullets for this ?
They don't have grooves to hold the lube, so probably not. For a rifle with a tubular magazine you definitely cannot - you need to use flat-nosed bullets or the round nose will bump against the primer of the round in front and could set it off when the rounds are pushed rearward when the action is cycled.
You think black powder cartridges are ok with a replica Remington 1875? I’m assuming so since that’s what they would have used back then
Absolutely. Thanks for watching!
35 grains of Goex is a little anemic - I would normally use 40 grains of Swiss or Old Eynsford, if that was not available I would simply completely fill the case with Goex and compress the load with the bullet. Black powder burns quite well when heavily compressed - such loads are much more satisfactory to shoot. There should be no danger as long as it is a modern steel framed gun.
Why did you specifically load 5 and skip one?
These revolvers are not safe when the hammer rests on a loaded chamber. If you’re at the range and planning to shoot immediately, loading six is fine, but loading five is a good habit to be in.
@@GunsOfTheWest gotcha thanks didn't even know that.
Have you loaded the cartridges with a .454 ball?
I haven’t.
Lee dies will work on my Lyman press
Lee does come with easy-to-follow instructions, so I recommend just following those.
10:40
That's not slow motion
That's me playing rdr 2 on my laptop
When does a gun become a gun. Is this considered a black powered pistol ammo?
If you're asking for legal reasons, in the United States, a firearm designed to use fixed ammunition (bullet, primer, and powder held together by a case) is *generally* still considered a "firearm" by the NFA and GCA, even if it is a firearm that was made before 1899 (or a replica thereof) and loaded with black powder cartridges unless the ammunition for it is no longer manufactured.
Since .45 Colt ammunition is still manufactured, any replica of an antique firearm that can fire .45 Colt ammunition is still regulated the same as any modern firearm. However, if it were chambered for .38 Rimfire or .41 Colt (long or short), it would not be regulated as a modern firearm, because those cartridges are no longer commercially produced in the US and probably aren't commercially produced anywhere in the world.
black powder is easy to reload... go with something close to the original bullet weight and pack the cartridge full. the name tells you the load, 45-70 etc but the cartridge was sized for the load back then... in modern guns being off a few grains black powder is not a big deal...
I like the way speak when you describe what to do during the reloading process. I find it soothing, ever thought about public speaking? I bet you'd be good at it. Greetings from 🌴 California 🌴
Public speaking is actually how I make my living. Thanks for watching!
Could you test these loads against a "meat target"? Layer of pork belly, pork rib, bag of oranges to simulate lung tissue, then another rack of pork ribs followed by skirt steak? This arrangement should approximate the bullets damage to a human target.
This load would prove to be incredibly effective against a target like that. Historic .45 Colt loads, which this is quite similar to, resulted in a 250 grain projectile moving around 850 fps when fired from a pistol length barrel. That results in around 400 ft/lbs of energy at the muzzle. For comparison .45 ACP's standard military load was a 230 grain bullet at around 830 fps, when fired from a 1911, resulting in around 350 ft/lbs of energy at the muzzle.
Where is part 1?
Does anybody sell these bullets loaded already??
Buffalo Arms makes black powder ammo.
Orange Soda was harmed in the making of this video
LOL!
Hey Dustin, I had a question. It just occurred to me, couldn’t you use a muzzleloading revolver with a cartridge conversion to reload spent brass? Think about it. You put your empty shell into the cylinder through the cut in the recoil shield, you poor the black powder charge and use the loading lever (which is still attached to the gun) and you put a new primer in the shell and turn the cylinder so it can’t back out. And then you have a cartridge! Wouldn’t that work?
No. The reloading dies are what expand the case mouth and seat the bullet to the correct depth. You also need the press or a priming tool to add the primer.
Guns Of The West don’t know about the brass expansion but, if I load 30 grains of black powder and then fill the rest in with corn meal I won’t really have to worry about seating the bullet to the proper depth. Especially if I’m just using a round ball. What if you took a dremel tool and opened up the area in the brass so the primer would have a loose fit. Wax bullet firing kits are that way. The nickel casings are wide enough that primers fall right out the only reason they’d stay in the gun is because the back of the revolver cylinder is there
@kevinmarkham6385 have you tried it? Blow up a gun or lose a hand???
@@craigwilliamson6759 haven’t tried. in retrospect it’s silly
i really try to get ur point... you unlube then relube... then reframe the case, and reexpend the case... waoh... sounds like a forward-backward step western dance...
I hope for your sake that you use diet soda when you shower in the desert -- LOL
The gain on audio is low.