This is really appreciated because I had no really good way to do this and for the hydraulic is probably the easiest ways most people will say 12 flats but marker is a great way.
He didn't prime the lifters after checking them so they'll clatter like crazy on start up until they fill with oil. More importantly, he didn't compress the lifter by 14 or 20 flats or whatever (varies depending on thread of pushrod) so as to position it at the correct point in its range. He treated it just like a solid lifter. I hope nobody follows this 'advice'. The Internet is so full of misinformation. I'd recommend checking-out Pacific Mike's channel. He knows what he's doing.
What do you mean "prime the lifter"?? Assemble the lifter together and use a tool to push up on the check ball?? In the video I thought that he did take the the spring all the way down collapsing the lifter Than loosening 1 1/2 turn.. My clymer book says early shovelheads 1 3/4 turns out Later shovelheads 1 1/2 turns out The way he did it in this vid.. I know Pacific mike Does it differently... He adjusts down until the spring just starts to collapses than 24 more flats.. Well that i am assuming it works the same way achieving the same thing in the end... I must admit i am freaking confused... I can't find a real HD book and everybody says something different...
Thanks for posting this, helped the old shovelhead come roaring back to life!
Probably the most concise tutorial on RUclips for shovelhead valve adjustments. Thanks
Thanks for posting! There is definitely a lack of good quality shovelhead maintenance videos on youtube
Thanks. Good concise info on this procedure. Most cover a complete removal/installation of pushrods; I do not need all that.
First real decent detailed video of how to adjust pushrods. Thanks for the post.
This is really appreciated because I had no really good way to do this and for the hydraulic is probably the easiest ways most people will say 12 flats but marker is a great way.
great information just got done replacing the seals.
God I want a shovelhead the motors look so cool .
A mini bungee is real good for holding the tubes up out of your way too.
ahhh man thank, that's clever tip
With hydraulic lifters you should wait until it bleeds down before turning engine over to adjust the next
Turning the engine over will pump up the lifters so you have to wait a few minutes for them to bleed down.
easy they were the easyest bikes to work on simple no torque wrench required?
Solid or hydraulic lifters ? that should be stated as you work. all push rods are solid/adjustable
Great Video..Thanks for posting it..
Clothes pin great idea
i like the tubes...
Nice
He didn't prime the lifters after checking them so they'll clatter like crazy on start up until they fill with oil. More importantly, he didn't compress the lifter by 14 or 20 flats or whatever (varies depending on thread of pushrod) so as to position it at the correct point in its range. He treated it just like a solid lifter. I hope nobody follows this 'advice'. The Internet is so full of misinformation. I'd recommend checking-out Pacific Mike's channel. He knows what he's doing.
What do you mean "prime the lifter"??
Assemble the lifter together and use a tool to push up on the check ball??
In the video
I thought that he did take the the spring all the way down collapsing the lifter
Than loosening 1 1/2 turn..
My clymer book says early shovelheads
1 3/4 turns out
Later shovelheads
1 1/2 turns out
The way he did it in this vid..
I know Pacific mike
Does it differently...
He adjusts down until the spring just starts to collapses than 24 more flats..
Well that i am assuming it works the same way achieving the same thing in the end...
I must admit i am freaking confused...
I can't find a real HD book and everybody says something different...
why prime the lifter you can't make an adjustment with oil in it
At 0:23 it says solid lifters.
They ARE solid lifters buttnut. Nothing like trashing someone when In fact you are the one who is ignorant.