BTW, you don't need to cut or remove the heat shield. Unplug and unclip to O2 sensor wire first. Then, after unbolting the shield, lift it up on top of the coils. You have to shove it up there and tweak it slightly. You can lift it high enough to get to all of the manifold bolts. When you're done, pull it back down and bolt it back on. This works on both sides. It's how we do it at the dealership.
@@aaronbritt2025 possibly stupid question but would I NEED to replace the heat shield with a new one once I replace my manifolds? If that is too hard to do I don't want to waste any effort. My new manifolds didn't come with one.
@@yungavalor3192 no reason to completely remove your stock ones. You unbolt them, push them up and replace the manifold. Then you pull them back down and bolt them on the the replacement manifolds. It's actually harder to completely remove the heat shields.
So I just did this job on my titan it has 220,000 miles on it and the bolts look like they havent been removed since day one. I used 2 cans of BP blaster and it took 3 days total to do the job as it took one day to just take the bolts of and another day to remove the old headers and reinstall the new ones. Day 3 was looking for the lugnuts my father in law lost and I had to buy new ones. So to sum it all up never doing this again. But thanks for the video it was helpful. 😁👍🏻
Thank you! I was fighting with my '05 Armada for a minute, and not finding a good angle of attack. I hadn't thought of going in from the wheel wells, and also now own an impact 14mm pivot socket to make the job easier. Fortunately, I'm experienced enough now with breaking things on vehicles that I only rounded off one bolt partially before I said "This isn't working..." and came to find this video!!!
Great job! Excellent tutorial special for those of us who have Nissan Armadas/Titans. My check engine light came on at about 100k, I had the mechanic check for codes. He told me more then likely the catalyst converters need it to be replace. The more I follow this issues in RUclips, and other forums it leads me to believe my exhaust manifolds maybe crack (I haven’t actually inspected them). However, it seems Nissan has done a good job building heavy duty vehicle, but some of their OEM parts need improvement! Again thx!
felix44860 just checked mine today and sure enough a huge crack around one of the tubes, getting it repaired and hopefully the issue is resolved, repairing existing headers is more cost effective than replacing
They use aluminum when they should have used cast iron. I have heard they can weld the crack rather then full replacement. Some shops can weld them without taking them off.
@@lovelife3628 I was thinking about welding mine, how much did they charge you? My passenger side is a little noisy but not bad, been like that for 3+ years since I got it. Wouldn't pass emissions even though I have no codes or I/M readiness, this is BS!
Your videos somehow make it seem pretty doable for one who is not a mechanic. At least the videos help me understand the basics of braking things down to small processes. Thank for the videos.
So Far Probably the Best and Most Inspiring Walk Through I've seen YET in any videos.. Good Work and Thank You.. Although living on the East Coast in Jersey with almost spell "Difficult Knuckle Busting Rusted Bolts" I'm sure!!! 💪😊
I had some Jba headers replaced for same price of factory headers on my titan to a banks monster exhaust. Sounds great that's not an easy job to do he made it look easy.
Impressive. Very impressive. Thinking I'm doing this instead of pitching the repair shop a few weeks of my wife's pay check. ;-)) Thanks for putting together such a high-quality vid!
Thank god for a recent video. I have an 05 with 218k on it. It's got the dreaded tick and I was hoping to replace the gaskets and call it a day. But it's looking more and more like the manifolds. I may go the long tube header route and call it a day. Thank you for such an informative video. I'll definitely need to watch this a couple times to get better idea before i dig in.
good choice with the long tube headers, i have a seat of doug thorleys on my 04, i have installed a set of jba headers in the past and you cant go wrong either way. ium glad you found the video helpful. if you need any help during the install, just ask!!
VERY WELL DONE VIDEO! Nice balance of detail! Nice touch listing all of the tools required, that 7/8 wrench had me curious at the beginning. Excellent that you pointed out using new OEM nuts and gaskets, that's a DIY nightmare waiting to happen, strip them off half way and then have to wait for days for the dealer to order them. The length of the video was perfect, you edited the unnecessary parts, and didnt talk forever about things that are obvious! I did catch one edit that made me chuckle..... that first O2 sensor... you said something like.... just press the release and pull it apart... you fumbled a little and then the video was cut and magicallyit came right apart! ALL of us have fought with one of those stupid connectors that refused to release like it should! Awesome video, keep up the good work! God Bless you and your toolbox!
Excellent video. I used it as a reference for my 2006 Armada 2wd on Bank 1 (LH) side. Take top of air filter box and flip over on the engine to get access to 2 motor bolts. I separated the steering joint to the steering CV joint. Trying to take the lower portion that connects to steering tack was an issue since it was splined and I didn't have a tool to get it off...so I left it. Regardless I worked around it...if you have huge hands it might be an issue. The heat shield came off without cutting it as it slide out from the top of engine compartment. My manifold bolts were rusted a little and I soaked them with CRC Knocker Loose over night. I took my time and they came off except for 1 bolt that needed heating. FYI... If you are doing one side and lifting the engine....my suggestion is to jack up the truck level because when placing wood under the oil pan and trying to jack the engine when it is tilted is not a good idea because there will NOT be direct contact across the oil pan when jacking up engine. It took me a day and 1/2. The little Milwaukee rachet was a life saver. I did a little things differently but your video was so helpful and a life saver from $1700 being paid..thank you sir.
Thanks for this video! I just put new manifolds in my ‘06 Titan 4wd. I am not a professional mechanic but have done the service on all my vehicles for 40 years. This was one of the most frustrating jobs I’ve ever done! If I could offer any advice to anybody else thinking about tackling this project it would be to remove the 4wd differential (axle assembly), the frame cross member, and the motor mounts. I needed to replace the lower a-arms so I was already into it and had the steering knuckles already off. After I got the a-arms off I went ahead with the manifold replacement while I was at it. After doing the passenger side, I took a good look at the drivers side and realized it was gonna be a nightmare unless I removed the stuff I already mentioned. After taking those items off and finishing the drivers side, I wished I had done that first before even doing the passenger side. It made it much easier!
I just replaced my drivers side...it was a bear doing it on a sloped driveway on the ground. But your video was super helpful. I got the heat shield out in one piece, but didn't put it back on...hmm...should I bother?? Great job
WOW Aaron -- Great video!! - Thank you sir!! I was just looking at this job yesterday - 2008 Pathfinder with (I believe) the same VK56DE V8 engine. It needs a PS pump so I have the inner fender off for that. It also developed a leak in the passenger side exhaust manifold. I'm looking at the engine and reading the Service Manual (which has me removing the entire front drive axle assembly) -- thinking there HAS to be an easier way, and you just confirmed it. I found your very well done RUclips video this morning. You even list the needed tools. Very thorough indeed! Of course here in New England, the heart of the rust belt, there will be a lot more cutting, cursing and torch work. Maybe some welding too - the exhaust flange bolts look like toothpicks. Here's hoping the manifold fasteners come off ok. I will be sending a small donation your way and hope others are doing so too. Videos like yours are so helpful in so many ways. In this case it confirmed my thoughts that the manifold could MAYBE be repaired this way VS the Service manual method of pulling the whole front drivetrain out. Thank you! Larry
Yeatarday i replace LHS exgust manifuld and iys take my time 6 hrs my good then i found this video and now its very easy four me .bcz i have to remove and replace gaskit RHS alsow thx.
Wow, for you southern mechanics working on cars is like playing lego. I almost started laughing when i saw you remove an exhaust bolt with a impact ratchet on an 11 year old car. I just did this same job on my 2008 QX56 with 180,000 miles and I would have loved if my bolts would have come out half as easy as yours :)
I've done this job at 140k in New England and it was no joke. Next worse is the lower control arm cam bolts fused into the bushings. Also, if you get the JBA LT headers (I did) you gotta get the Cajun B pipes w or w/o cats and tuning to make it work right.
A word of advice for anyone installing JBA long tube headers. Tighten the engine mount (frame side) after removing the old manifolds! With the new JBA headers installed, one of the downtubes completely blocks access to one of the 17mm bolts.
Question about JBA long tube headers upgrade. They come with no catalytic converter and OEM cat is one piece with heaters. So what type of cat can i use with JBA headers?
@@ramsesfelix388 Does your state test for emissions? If so, you are out of luck most likely. I don't run any cats with my headers. Cajun offers a catted b-pipe setup, but those are your secondary, "downstream" cats which don't play a role really.
Thanks for the heads up on the gaskets I got mine from Nissan as well as the studs and nuts i rounded off the nuts on a couple of mine but was about to use easy outs reverse nut grabber on a swivel. Well more than a couple like 6 or so lol.
Me: Looks easy enough Me 6 Days later: *Dropped Transmission and Transfer Case* I'm thinking of doing the AFE twisted steel with their rebel series cat back exhaust.
Great video. I have a question on the four engine mount bolts. I am having an issue getting to the rear upper bolt. Is there a trick to getting to it? It’s funny all the videos on you tube skip showing how to loosen those four bolts. Thanks for your help.
Yes! I been waiting for this one. I have the JBA headers. Saving up for the B-pipes. It’s going to take me 5000% longer though thanks to NY rust. I’m hoping I can get by until spring since it’s my winter vehicle. Those magnaflow manifolds look nice.
im glad! i couldnt imagine doing this job with rust. yikes. i have jba on my 04 and love them. i was impressed with the magnaflows too. they look like shorty headers.
@@dateatorjr9671 both those codes are refering to the rear bank 1 sensor.. which is the driver side downstream sensor. looks like the computer is seeing an issue with the heater circut in the sensor. if the sensor is original. i would replace it with an oem unit.
Aaron Hines thank you for confirming that for me! Do you think it’s something that can wait, being its the secondary o2? The truck doesn’t fit in my garage and the weather sucks right now. Im also doing the full exhaust come spring. I appreciate your time and help.
you bet bud, i appreciate all your support for my channel. yes it can wait. oxygen sensors dont read properly until the are HOT. so they build a heating element into the sensor to help it reach temp sooner. your sensor has an issue with the heater circuit according to the codes. all you need is a 7/8 wrench and some small pliers to compress the connector.
Great job great vid. Now Tell me where you are so I can bring my 05 to you so you can do mine for me.... this is more of a job than I’m willing to take on... I just changed the starter on this thing. It took me 3hrs start to finish. Ridiculous place to put a starter. Geez...
@@itzmckrispy9318 Had my new starter and took it to a local shop. They quoted me $110 to install it. Apparently they'd never done a Titan before...and from the looks they gave me when I picked it up they never wanted to do one again.
@@patwhatley Starter is easy. Pulling IM/injectors is cake. Why is everyone a drama queen on removing IMs? It's the easiest shit in the world...unless it's a VG.
Hi aron i know this is an older video now but the best i have found the links to the headers no longer work i will need full length if you could help me out im struggling right now if you see this it would be a prayer answered thank you sir! Awesome content
Im glad i came across your page. I have an 06 armada that needs a lot of work, and my son and i are using it to learn few stuff. Now, my son wants to be a mechanic, and your channel is out go to page. Please, DM me if possible, i have a few questions. I will definitely out some money for your time.
did this on my 06 it sounds great...however i should of used the oem gaskit because now i have to go in and replace it with the oem one....:( it sucks for me. great video thou.
How come the link to the bolts say they won’t fit my 2012 Pro4x? Btw great video, I’ve been sitting on my parts for a year cause I’v been too chicken 💩 to start this project on my own. You make it look easy. Great job!!!
Those last two bolts can be removed with a wrench. Place the 14mm box end on the nut, and place the box end of a slightly larger wrench on the open end of the first wrench. Also, to prevent future failure of the cat a proper break-in procedure should be done: after idling for 5 minutes, run it up to 1500 RPM for 2 minutes. Then let it cool completely. This expands the catalyst material.
I also sprayed down the nuts twice a day for a week helped a lot.also don’t know how you got that dip stick tube out so easy that thing was a pain also you didn’t show the engine mounts that’s one terrible part of the job.
The manifold you installed looks different than the link you posted, can you comment with a link to the exact manifold you installed, need to replace both on my wife’s 2010 armada.
You sir are a boss brotha! That little Milwaukee impact looks like a life saver. Btw is this a 2wd? I've got a 4wd 06 and eventually need to do headers. Always hear that 4x4 is harder.
no, the truck shown in the video is a 4wd. not very fun with the axle and diff directly below the manifolds. makes a 2wd look like a cake walk. get yourself a 1/2 ratchet that swivels like the green one show in the video. the motor mount bolts that go into the block are hard to get to on the drivers side. that milwaukee awesome. i got it at home depot. thanks for the kind words!
Great video once again and thanks for taking the time to reply when im sure you gey swamped with questions. ive used your tips and tricks for almost every part of my titan over the last 2 years. One quick question if i replace my bank 1 manifold/cats with OEM manifold do i need tuning afterwards?
Hi Aaron, great video. What are your thoughts on not removing the engine mount bolts completely? I’m worried the engine won’t line back up if I remove the mount bolts all the way. Thanks again for the great video.
As long as you start the bolt in the threads before you let the motor down it will be okay. That way you can manipulate the mount the way you want! Thanks for the support
thank you very much! if you click the show more button under my name below the video, that will open the entire description where the links are! thanks again for the support
Great Job and tips mine i had welded at a shop and i used old gaskets cleaned them all up runs great now just when i first started it had a lot of smoke for a couple minutes then seemed ok is that normal just burning off maybe a lot of spray residue ??? Thanks!
I wanted to know is there any cast iron after market exhaust manifolds for these 04-10 Nissan trucks? Also if I replace these parts with the parts you recommend is it possible they will crack again? Thans for the vid great job!!!
Just replaced my OEM intake with a K&N Series 77 filter (checked multiple times to make sure its snug and not leaking) and ran it for a day then the SES light came on. Looked and seen a P0174, tried cleaning the MAF sensor and erased the code then after driving for a bit with my scan tool connected a P0172 code came up checked for vacuum leaks nothing to report there although I did notice the crank case vent hoses didn't have any clamps connected and were very loose to pull off the valve covers so put on some clamps erased the code and going to see if that worked tomorrow. And while I put the clamps on I decided to get under my truck and listen for any leaks in the exhaust or the headers, sounds like above my upstream CAT's there may be a crack somewhere. It's hard to hear from the radiator fan but I think that might be just the problem. It sounds a bit louder on the passenger side than the drivers side. Might as well go with some JBA's and straight pipe cat back if that's the issue :) If you have any info what it can be happy to read out the possibilities and check it out. Edit: Also going to replace the Crank Case and PCV hoses to make sure. They've seen better days haha!
The biggest key to have success in this job is the have the right tools lined up and ready to go, and soaking down the exhaust bolts 24 hours or so prior to doing the job. Otherwise a 3-4 hour job will take twice as long.
So if you get this code is it too late or should you worry about the pieces getting sucked up into your engine? Or is that what only happens if you let go too long
Step one: Have someone else do it. I replaced both sides and my arms looked like I got in a fight with a mountain lion (Well... Maybe a Serval). And lost. I'll never voluntarily do this again.
That’s the funniest thing I’ve heard in a long time 😂 I just finished my ‘13 QX56 and my arms look the same way. One observation from someone who is a Jack of many trades- Master of maybe a few in my 62 years on this spinning blue marble is this: People that work on automotive equipment need to evolve and grow a second elbow! How much easier it would be to work around all the thoughtless engineering that never takes into account the guy who has to repair/replace their contraptions stuffed into a space 1/2 the size required to adequately work on it? I used a 1 ton electric winch to extract the manifold heat shields Note to engineering: Make the manifold separate from the cats!! Like other more reasonable and thoughtful designers!!!
Great video! QUESTION: When jacking up the motor do you need to disconnect the shifter linkage to the transmission? Just wondering when the transmission goes up with the motor will it hurt anything. Thanks!
Any reason you didn't use the impact gun to remove the 8 nuts on the manifold? It seems like using the impact gun would prevent the chance of rounding the nut (not having to push the breaker bar (keeping it tight on the nut)while trying to turn it), but I was curious to get your input. Great video.
Hey buddy thanks for the video. But the links to aftermarket headers are good anymore. Could you please give me the name of the company or a good link? If not no biggie thanks brother
Is this the best time to install new engine mounts as well? I have JBA LTs, Cajun b pipes, and PRG engine mounts ready to install, just trying to find the easiest way to install these mounts.
What is the manual way of getting the truck to learn the sequence? I don’t have the tablet to reset codes lol. My armada has a acceleration issue with a smell of exhaust and the codes p0171&p0174
BTW, you don't need to cut or remove the heat shield. Unplug and unclip to O2 sensor wire first. Then, after unbolting the shield, lift it up on top of the coils. You have to shove it up there and tweak it slightly. You can lift it high enough to get to all of the manifold bolts. When you're done, pull it back down and bolt it back on. This works on both sides. It's how we do it at the dealership.
Thank you for this info!! U the man
Can I remove it entirely this way without cutting it up?
@@kill2ski You can remove the heatshield entirely, but you'll have to bend the s*** out of it.
@@aaronbritt2025 possibly stupid question but would I NEED to replace the heat shield with a new one once I replace my manifolds? If that is too hard to do I don't want to waste any effort. My new manifolds didn't come with one.
@@yungavalor3192 no reason to completely remove your stock ones. You unbolt them, push them up and replace the manifold. Then you pull them back down and bolt them on the the replacement manifolds. It's actually harder to completely remove the heat shields.
So I just did this job on my titan it has 220,000 miles on it and the bolts look like they havent been removed since day one. I used 2 cans of BP blaster and it took 3 days total to do the job as it took one day to just take the bolts of and another day to remove the old headers and reinstall the new ones. Day 3 was looking for the lugnuts my father in law lost and I had to buy new ones. So to sum it all up never doing this again. But thanks for the video it was helpful. 😁👍🏻
Wow, and shops want to charge over 2k for this job. Ok I’ll keep the truck and getting under it as soon as order the manifolds. Thanks a million.
Thank you! I was fighting with my '05 Armada for a minute, and not finding a good angle of attack. I hadn't thought of going in from the wheel wells, and also now own an impact 14mm pivot socket to make the job easier. Fortunately, I'm experienced enough now with breaking things on vehicles that I only rounded off one bolt partially before I said "This isn't working..." and came to find this video!!!
At least im not the only one
Great job! Excellent tutorial special for those of us who have Nissan Armadas/Titans. My check engine light came on at about 100k, I had the mechanic check for codes. He told me more then likely the catalyst converters need it to be replace. The more I follow this issues in RUclips, and other forums it leads me to believe my exhaust manifolds maybe crack (I haven’t actually inspected them). However, it seems Nissan has done a good job building heavy duty vehicle, but some of their OEM parts need improvement! Again thx!
felix44860 just checked mine today and sure enough a huge crack around one of the tubes, getting it repaired and hopefully the issue is resolved, repairing existing headers is more cost effective than replacing
They use aluminum when they should have used cast iron. I have heard they can weld the crack rather then full replacement. Some shops can weld them without taking them off.
@@lovelife3628 I was thinking about welding mine, how much did they charge you? My passenger side is a little noisy but not bad, been like that for 3+ years since I got it. Wouldn't pass emissions even though I have no codes or I/M readiness, this is BS!
Thanks for the video. I was able to replace mine in 19 minutes also
Your videos somehow make it seem pretty doable for one who is not a mechanic. At least the videos help me understand the basics of braking things down to small processes. Thank for the videos.
You should be on the road doing this all over the states
I met someone in San Diego that does it for living
Where in San Diego? I need this done and I live in San Diego.
So Far Probably the Best and Most Inspiring Walk Through I've seen YET in any videos.. Good Work and Thank You.. Although living on the East Coast in Jersey with almost spell "Difficult Knuckle Busting Rusted Bolts" I'm sure!!! 💪😊
Thank you! Good luck with that rust!!
I had some Jba headers replaced for same price of factory headers on my titan to a banks monster exhaust. Sounds great that's not an easy job to do he made it look easy.
Great job, thank you for sharing. My 2011 Titan has 83,000 miles. No major issues. This will definitely help if I ever experience this
Hey Aaron! Thank you for your videos,working on the Titans! They are time and money saving for me! God bless you sir!
2008 nissan Amanda belt pattern
Impressive. Very impressive. Thinking I'm doing this instead of pitching the repair shop a few weeks of my wife's pay check. ;-)) Thanks for putting together such a high-quality vid!
Really appreciate the detail and patience you put into to making this video. You gained a new subscriber.
Great video. I have a northern truck and will have to have the professional do it due to rusted bolts.
I know my vehicle is a new york vehicle and when i do it stuffs gonna break.
Your video was filmed with good details. Thanks for putting it up on YT. Good job, nice work & keep putting them out, they are very helpful. THANKS
Thank god for a recent video. I have an 05 with 218k on it. It's got the dreaded tick and I was hoping to replace the gaskets and call it a day. But it's looking more and more like the manifolds. I may go the long tube header route and call it a day. Thank you for such an informative video. I'll definitely need to watch this a couple times to get better idea before i dig in.
good choice with the long tube headers, i have a seat of doug thorleys on my 04, i have installed a set of jba headers in the past and you cant go wrong either way. ium glad you found the video helpful. if you need any help during the install, just ask!!
@@AaronHinesAuto I need my 04 done. I'm in mesa
VERY WELL DONE VIDEO!
Nice balance of detail! Nice touch listing all of the tools required, that 7/8 wrench had me curious at the beginning.
Excellent that you pointed out using new OEM nuts and gaskets, that's a DIY nightmare waiting to happen, strip them off half way and then have to wait for days for the dealer to order them.
The length of the video was perfect, you edited the unnecessary parts, and didnt talk forever about things that are obvious!
I did catch one edit that made me chuckle..... that first O2 sensor... you said something like.... just press the release and pull it apart... you fumbled a little and then the video was cut and magicallyit came right apart! ALL of us have fought with one of those stupid connectors that refused to release like it should!
Awesome video, keep up the good work!
God Bless you and your toolbox!
Thank You for this. About to replace the entire system and also live in Jersey so rust will make this more of a headache. Good Video!!!
Excellent video. I used it as a reference for my 2006 Armada 2wd on Bank 1 (LH) side. Take top of air filter box and flip over on the engine to get access to 2 motor bolts. I separated the steering joint to the steering CV joint. Trying to take the lower portion that connects to steering tack was an issue since it was splined and I didn't have a tool to get it off...so I left it. Regardless I worked around it...if you have huge hands it might be an issue. The heat shield came off without cutting it as it slide out from the top of engine compartment. My manifold bolts were rusted a little and I soaked them with CRC Knocker Loose over night. I took my time and they came off except for 1 bolt that needed heating. FYI... If you are doing one side and lifting the engine....my suggestion is to jack up the truck level because when placing wood under the oil pan and trying to jack the engine when it is tilted is not a good idea because there will NOT be direct contact across the oil pan when jacking up engine. It took me a day and 1/2. The little Milwaukee rachet was a life saver. I did a little things differently but your video was so helpful and a life saver from $1700 being paid..thank you sir.
Thanks for this video! I just put new manifolds in my ‘06 Titan 4wd. I am not a professional mechanic but have done the service on all my vehicles for 40 years. This was one of the most frustrating jobs I’ve ever done! If I could offer any advice to anybody else thinking about tackling this project it would be to remove the 4wd differential (axle assembly), the frame cross member, and the motor mounts. I needed to replace the lower a-arms so I was already into it and had the steering knuckles already off. After I got the a-arms off I went ahead with the manifold replacement while I was at it. After doing the passenger side, I took a good look at the drivers side and realized it was gonna be a nightmare unless I removed the stuff I already mentioned. After taking those items off and finishing the drivers side, I wished I had done that first before even doing the passenger side. It made it much easier!
I'm here to do this work on my Titan soon. Thank you for the tip
Just did the passenger side on my 06, went better than I thought! Is there a video for the driver's side?
I just replaced my drivers side...it was a bear doing it on a sloped driveway on the ground. But your video was super helpful. I got the heat shield out in one piece, but didn't put it back on...hmm...should I bother?? Great job
This was a excellent video. I have seen a few for this particular type of truck. please make more for this truck
WOW Aaron -- Great video!! - Thank you sir!! I was just looking at this job yesterday - 2008 Pathfinder with (I believe) the same VK56DE V8 engine. It needs a PS pump so I have the inner fender off for that. It also developed a leak in the passenger side exhaust manifold. I'm looking at the engine and reading the Service Manual (which has me removing the entire front drive axle assembly) -- thinking there HAS to be an easier way, and you just confirmed it. I found your very well done RUclips video this morning. You even list the needed tools. Very thorough indeed!
Of course here in New England, the heart of the rust belt, there will be a lot more cutting, cursing and torch work. Maybe some welding too - the exhaust flange bolts look like toothpicks. Here's hoping the manifold fasteners come off ok.
I will be sending a small donation your way and hope others are doing so too. Videos like yours are so helpful in so many ways. In this case it confirmed my thoughts that the manifold could MAYBE be repaired this way VS the Service manual method of pulling the whole front drivetrain out. Thank you! Larry
I just finished your video man, by far the best video out here on this. Thanks for your hard work and keep up the good content! Helpful man
You made a big job look easy.
Nice work.
Yeatarday i replace LHS exgust manifuld and iys take my time 6 hrs my good then i found this video and now its very easy four me .bcz i have to remove and replace gaskit RHS alsow thx.
Dam… I was going to do it myself but after seeing how much work it is I rather just take it to a mechanic. Thank you
this is going to blow
Wow, for you southern mechanics working on cars is like playing lego. I almost started laughing when i saw you remove an exhaust bolt with a impact ratchet on an 11 year old car. I just did this same job on my 2008 QX56 with 180,000 miles and I would have loved if my bolts would have come out half as easy as yours :)
northern3000 tell me about it. Each step for me is about an hour or more and usually involves a sawzall or grinder 🤣
I've done this job at 140k in New England and it was no joke. Next worse is the lower control arm cam bolts fused into the bushings. Also, if you get the JBA LT headers (I did) you gotta get the Cajun B pipes w or w/o cats and tuning to make it work right.
Good afternoon did use the link for manifold exhaust because my mechanic say it can’t work with modifications?
Q
@@stapleboss same here in Utah. cam bolts were fused to the guide bushing in the lower.
Minor suggestion - plug that dip stick hole because of all the rust/garbage/sprays you'll be dumping down that side of the engine.
A word of advice for anyone installing JBA long tube headers. Tighten the engine mount (frame side) after removing the old manifolds! With the new JBA headers installed, one of the downtubes completely blocks access to one of the 17mm bolts.
Awesome advice. Installing some this weekend and you saved me from the "SOB" moment that we've all been through.
@@JOATJESSE No problem. I should have mentioned it was on the drivers side.
Question about JBA long tube headers upgrade. They come with no catalytic converter and OEM cat is one piece with heaters. So what type of cat can i use with JBA headers?
@@ramsesfelix388 Does your state test for emissions? If so, you are out of luck most likely. I don't run any cats with my headers. Cajun offers a catted b-pipe setup, but those are your secondary, "downstream" cats which don't play a role really.
Great video. I will definately use this for my exhaust replacement.
Thanks
Thanks for the heads up on the gaskets I got mine from Nissan as well as the studs and nuts i rounded off the nuts on a couple of mine but was about to use easy outs reverse nut grabber on a swivel. Well more than a couple like 6 or so lol.
Very clear and informative....thanks
Me: Looks easy enough
Me 6 Days later:
*Dropped Transmission and Transfer Case*
I'm thinking of doing the AFE twisted steel with their rebel series cat back exhaust.
I've done this to my 04 armada and it's exactly the same process.
That engine bracket is the pain part!!...lol
Thanks.
Titans are very good vehicles.
Thank you! Excellent information!
Great video. I have a question on the four engine mount bolts. I am having an issue getting to the rear upper bolt. Is there a trick to getting to it? It’s funny all the videos on you tube skip showing how to loosen those four bolts. Thanks for your help.
Super well made DIY video Aaron!
Love your video. Thanks. I have an 05 titan, can you replace them. Been driving it with engine service warning for over 7 years.😊
what state. Out here in CA, I wont pass the smog test. Also covid closed the base auto do it yourself shop.
Wow. You should try that in Pennsylvania. My 2012 is so rusted I don't think I'll be able to get the nuts off. Not even sure a 14mm will fit.
Yes! I been waiting for this one. I have the JBA headers. Saving up for the B-pipes. It’s going to take me 5000% longer though thanks to NY rust. I’m hoping I can get by until spring since it’s my winter vehicle. Those magnaflow manifolds look nice.
im glad! i couldnt imagine doing this job with rust. yikes. i have jba on my 04 and love them. i was impressed with the magnaflows too. they look like shorty headers.
Aaron Hines so the Titan threw the CEL today. Got 1146 and 1147. Do you know if they are both for the bank 1 rear sensor?
@@dateatorjr9671 both those codes are refering to the rear bank 1 sensor.. which is the driver side downstream sensor. looks like the computer is seeing an issue with the heater circut in the sensor. if the sensor is original. i would replace it with an oem unit.
Aaron Hines thank you for confirming that for me! Do you think it’s something that can wait, being its the secondary o2? The truck doesn’t fit in my garage and the weather sucks right now. Im also doing the full exhaust come spring. I appreciate your time and help.
you bet bud, i appreciate all your support for my channel. yes it can wait. oxygen sensors dont read properly until the are HOT. so they build a heating element into the sensor to help it reach temp sooner. your sensor has an issue with the heater circuit according to the codes. all you need is a 7/8 wrench and some small pliers to compress the connector.
Great job great vid. Now Tell me where you are so I can bring my 05 to you so you can do mine for me.... this is more of a job than I’m willing to take on... I just changed the starter on this thing. It took me 3hrs start to finish. Ridiculous place to put a starter. Geez...
ya starters arn't fun! i have a video on that too. i'm located in suprise, az. thank you!!
@@AaronHinesAuto no kidding?? I'd love to know if I can book you for this same job on my 2012 Armada!
How much would u charge me to do my 05 am in buckeye
@@AaronHinesAuto how much would u charge me to do my 05 am in buckeye
I did this already. I actually think replacing the starter is harder than this.
I am personally never doing a starter on my Titan again 😂 I’ll let the shop deal with that hastle
Starter is a hassle!
I did start on my 04 it wasn’t that hard, my mechanic still telling me that the manifold link can’t fit, did u use the link manifold?
@@itzmckrispy9318 Had my new starter and took it to a local shop. They quoted me $110 to install it. Apparently they'd never done a Titan before...and from the looks they gave me when I picked it up they never wanted to do one again.
@@patwhatley Starter is easy. Pulling IM/injectors is cake. Why is everyone a drama queen on removing IMs? It's the easiest shit in the world...unless it's a VG.
Hi aron i know this is an older video now but the best i have found the links to the headers no longer work i will need full length if you could help me out im struggling right now if you see this it would be a prayer answered thank you sir! Awesome content
Excellent video!
Great video man! Keep em comin’ I have 06’ from day one and shes still goin strong!
Nice job . Great detail.
Im glad i came across your page. I have an 06 armada that needs a lot of work, and my son and i are using it to learn few stuff. Now, my son wants to be a mechanic, and your channel is out go to page. Please, DM me if possible, i have a few questions.
I will definitely out some money for your time.
Great job man
Awesome video! Keep it up!
thank you for the support!!!!
@@AaronHinesAuto you're the man brother great job!
did this on my 06 it sounds great...however i should of used the oem gaskit because now i have to go in and replace it with the oem one....:( it sucks for me. great video thou.
That's why I never touch the cheap aftermarket stuff.
How come the link to the bolts say they won’t fit my 2012 Pro4x? Btw great video, I’ve been sitting on my parts for a year cause I’v been too chicken 💩 to start this project on my own. You make it look easy. Great job!!!
Super helpful! Just got a new sub.👍🏾
Thanks for the support!
Man I need you to do my 2009.
Cool very nice 👌 headers
Don't you just love that sharp jab into your wrist when breaking a bolt? 😂
WFfffffgggggfffffffgg,5
Those last two bolts can be removed with a wrench. Place the 14mm box end on the nut, and place the box end of a slightly larger wrench on the open end of the first wrench. Also, to prevent future failure of the cat a proper break-in procedure should be done: after idling for 5 minutes, run it up to 1500 RPM for 2 minutes. Then let it cool completely. This expands the catalyst material.
I also sprayed down the nuts twice a day for a week helped a lot.also don’t know how you got that dip stick tube out so easy that thing was a pain also you didn’t show the engine mounts that’s one terrible part of the job.
The manifold you installed looks different than the link you posted, can you comment with a link to the exact manifold you installed, need to replace both on my wife’s 2010 armada.
Mine took me so long.
My friend what is the name of the company that make or sell jba long tube for cheaper
You sir are a boss brotha! That little Milwaukee impact looks like a life saver. Btw is this a 2wd? I've got a 4wd 06 and eventually need to do headers. Always hear that 4x4 is harder.
no, the truck shown in the video is a 4wd. not very fun with the axle and diff directly below the manifolds. makes a 2wd look like a cake walk. get yourself a 1/2 ratchet that swivels like the green one show in the video. the motor mount bolts that go into the block are hard to get to on the drivers side. that milwaukee awesome. i got it at home depot. thanks for the kind words!
@@AaronHinesAuto is the driver side engine mount bolts hard to get to because its 4wd or do think it will be so with 2wd as well?
You have to either remove the studs or unbolt the motor mount from the engine not the frame to have enough room to remove the manifold and gasket
Great video once again and thanks for taking the time to reply when im sure you gey swamped with questions. ive used your tips and tricks for almost every part of my titan over the last 2 years. One quick question if i replace my bank 1 manifold/cats with OEM manifold do i need tuning afterwards?
Great video .
What is the brand of headers that you used? The link doesn't work anymore.
THANKS FOR THE VIDEO AND COULD YOU SEND ME THE LINK 🔗 FOR THE EXTENDED HEADERS YOU SPOKE OF AND THE PARTS NUMBERS AS WELL THANKS AGAIN
Good job
Well if the starter location means anything from the brilliant minds of Nissan, where is the exhaust manifold hidden? Somewhere in North Korea?
Hi Aaron, great video. What are your thoughts on not removing the engine mount bolts completely? I’m worried the engine won’t line back up if I remove the mount bolts all the way.
Thanks again for the great video.
As long as you start the bolt in the threads before you let the motor down it will be okay. That way you can manipulate the mount the way you want! Thanks for the support
Another question for you Aaron, how are the Magnaflow manifolds holding up? Any issues?
First great video very detail and informative. Where is the link for the parts you said you would include in the video?
thank you very much! if you click the show more button under my name below the video, that will open the entire description where the links are! thanks again for the support
Thank you
Great Job and tips mine i had welded at a shop and i used old gaskets cleaned them all up runs great now just when i first started it had a lot of smoke for a couple minutes then seemed ok is that normal just burning off maybe a lot of spray residue ??? Thanks!
how about a video on the driver's side manifold replacement
Bro where was this truck stored cause I've never seen Nissan exhaust bolts look so clean
as far as i know this truck has been in az its whole life
It's going on 5 years. Any chance you've got an updated link - or a company name - for the long tube headers you recommended? Old link is dead.
I wanted to know is there any cast iron after market exhaust manifolds for these 04-10 Nissan trucks? Also if I replace these parts with the parts you recommend is it possible they will crack again? Thans for the vid great job!!!
Do you need a tune after these installed?
Just replaced my OEM intake with a K&N Series 77 filter (checked multiple times to make sure its snug and not leaking) and ran it for a day then the SES light came on. Looked and seen a P0174, tried cleaning the MAF sensor and erased the code then after driving for a bit with my scan tool connected a P0172 code came up checked for vacuum leaks nothing to report there although I did notice the crank case vent hoses didn't have any clamps connected and were very loose to pull off the valve covers so put on some clamps erased the code and going to see if that worked tomorrow. And while I put the clamps on I decided to get under my truck and listen for any leaks in the exhaust or the headers, sounds like above my upstream CAT's there may be a crack somewhere. It's hard to hear from the radiator fan but I think that might be just the problem. It sounds a bit louder on the passenger side than the drivers side. Might as well go with some JBA's and straight pipe cat back if that's the issue :) If you have any info what it can be happy to read out the possibilities and check it out.
Edit: Also going to replace the Crank Case and PCV hoses to make sure. They've seen better days haha!
How old was the truck and how many miles when they cracked?
My 05 titan cracked at 130,000
The biggest key to have success in this job is the have the right tools lined up and ready to go, and soaking down the exhaust bolts 24 hours or so prior to doing the job. Otherwise a 3-4 hour job will take twice as long.
So if you get this code is it too late or should you worry about the pieces getting sucked up into your engine? Or is that what only happens if you let go too long
Will your way of clearing code work with long tube headers?
Would it be beneficial to put antiseize on all those studs and bolts?
Hey Aaron. How much does the labor cost on this repair? Also, have you heard of the company Cajun B Pipes?
I have a 2004 Titan with 25,000 miles on it I bought new . the only problem I have Had is the radio . I was a Nissan master tech and retired in 2007 .
Step one: Have someone else do it.
I replaced both sides and my arms looked like I got in a fight with a mountain lion (Well... Maybe a Serval). And lost. I'll never voluntarily do this again.
I feel like Nissan makes everything a lot harder then it should be. Their engine bays are tight to work in especially the VQ engines.
I just replaced mine with the JBA long tubes, and my hands and forarms are tore up!
That’s the funniest thing I’ve heard in a long time 😂
I just finished my ‘13 QX56 and my arms look the same way.
One observation from someone who is a Jack of many trades- Master of maybe a few in my 62 years on this spinning blue marble is this:
People that work on automotive equipment need to evolve and grow a second elbow! How much easier it would be to work around all the thoughtless engineering that never takes into account the guy who has to repair/replace their contraptions stuffed into a space 1/2 the size required to adequately work on it?
I used a 1 ton electric winch to extract the manifold heat shields
Note to engineering: Make the manifold separate from the cats!!
Like other more reasonable and thoughtful designers!!!
Great video! QUESTION: When jacking up the motor do you need to disconnect the shifter linkage to the transmission? Just wondering when the transmission goes up with the motor will it hurt anything. Thanks!
No need for that. It has a cable and can flex a bit.
Any reason you didn't use the impact gun to remove the 8 nuts on the manifold? It seems like using the impact gun would prevent the chance of rounding the nut (not having to push the breaker bar (keeping it tight on the nut)while trying to turn it), but I was curious to get your input. Great video.
Hey buddy thanks for the video. But the links to aftermarket headers are good anymore. Could you please give me the name of the company or a good link? If not no biggie thanks brother
What about the heat shield?
Did you ever have any problems with that magnaflow improved design catalyst? Did it perform well?
Is this the best time to install new engine mounts as well? I have JBA LTs, Cajun b pipes, and PRG engine mounts ready to install, just trying to find the easiest way to install these mounts.
Aaron, where did you get the actual manifold that you used in this video? Some of the links you posted dont work :(. Thank you
What is the manual way of getting the truck to learn the sequence? I don’t have the tablet to reset codes lol. My armada has a acceleration issue with a smell of exhaust and the codes p0171&p0174