Roofing - Dripedge Installation Walkthrough
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- Опубликовано: 28 мар 2017
- Walkthrough of the basic cut for drip edge installation on your roofing project. The outside square cut is the basis for all other cuts. Once you learn how to make this cut, then all other cuts for drip edge will come a lot easier. A tab for the first cut and then a miter for the second cut.
Should you install drip edge over or under the tarpaper or ice and water? • Roofing - Does Drip Ed...
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Should you lay the tar paper on top of the drip edge? If water gets to the tar paper, it will now flow under the metal drip Edge.
If you are outside of the state of Florida, then Yes. Check out this video about this very subject. ruclips.net/video/JmV5c52MUEI/видео.html
I’ve been a roofer my whole life, not a fan of the metal on top of the paper. Tho I appreciate the instructional video. Please throw a cross brace on that demo roof bro! Things gonna collapse w you on it 😅. I do like the notching of the drip edge. Much cleaner look. 95% of guys just do a sloppy no cut overlap.
Glad I don’t live in a hurricane area. They give you guys so many extra codes to follow.
What snips do you prefer? I’ve found Wiss to be the longest lasting.
I am using MidWest right offset in this video. They are good. Pretty much what we use for our general snips. Wiss is good too, but the MidWest brand seems to be consistent longer for some reason.
Practical Roofing Concepts cool. I’ll try them out. Nice work man. Thanks for the reply.
Used this same technique on my shed. It worked perfectly. Thank you for taking the time to make this.
One thing I learned was to wait for the second to last row of shingles before you put the top drip edge on. Clean corners though.
Here is the video putting the top metal drip edge cap - ruclips.net/video/k46OxZEwBrs/видео.html
Appreciate the help definitely gave me the information I needed to get the job done. Keep up the great work thank you.
Great tips on mitering the drip edge!
Thank. You. My shed roof came out great.
Great to hear!
Thank you for taking the time to do this video it was very informative.
Great video! Not a lot of detailed videos about drip edge install, this helped me out a lot.
Thank you
Hi,what stops the water from not going inside between the paper and the drip flash ? i see other videos they put the drip flashing on the plywood then put the paper over the wood and flashing.thanks for the video.
Yes, that is how they do it in some areas. In our area we use roofing cement to seal the dripedge to the felt paper. Once the shingles are laid in the roofing cement, that bond will not come apart. Again, that is how we do it in our area. We don't lay any metal directly to plywood, it is now part of the code that no metal lays directly on plywood.
Looks perty !
If u cute the top off the t it will bend around the corner and look great
ThankYou...
I didn't know about the measurement of a half inch. Thanks!
Awesome videos. Im in Brevard county and I’m thinking of stripping the shingles and drying in my roof myself then have roofer install metal. Can you tell me what I need to do for starting this process as far as permits, inspections and what not. I’m just trying to save money. Thanks for sharing these videos.
You should be able to find out online at your local community development office website or call. There may be an owner builder permit option.
Nice clean install 👍
I feel for buddy, it must be crazy hot working on a roof in FLA
It is great working weather now, but summer time is definitely brutal.
Thank you..trying to save some cost
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Hopefully you did
Well done job, I live in Brazil, and I would like to make a roof like this in my house, and I would like to know, what is the minimum distance that should leave between the ceiling and the OSB, thanks in advance, Ps: My house have no attic
Well, you should at least have the distance of the width of your trusses. 2x4 would be 3 1/2 inches and 2x6 would be 5 1/2 inchee. Ventilation directly under the roof deck is going to be better than closing it in. So no matter what you do make sure it ventilates from the bottom or soffit out of the top, either an off ridge vent or a ridge vent.
That drip edge should be about 1/2 inch away from the facia.
It is pretty tight. This method has worked and does not rot out the fascia, but the gutter is hard to get underneath.
I understand south Florida style with drip over paper for uplift but i dis-agree with south Florida only putting roofing cement to seal it, i would only trust this system if i hot mopped under the trim then attached the trim while tar is still hot & give a 1 foot mop over the trim.
Not only for the paper, but the roofing system would bond directly to the dripedge metal. This is the primary purpose.
thank you !! Great video!
I stopped watching when insaw u put the drip over the underlayment...if water gets under finish roof it will go under the drip n saturate the decking ends....CAN U SAY ROT?
It can go under. We have always done it this way due to not having ice to contend with. Florida Building Code allows under or over. We seal with roofing cement for wind. I have only seen guys from up North put it under over the last 30 years. Both ways seem to work fine with respect to water. Wind seems to be what the building code is more concerned with.
All the videos I can find say the drip edge goes under the underlayment except for the rakes. However, my .5" / 12" low slope patio cover had the asphalt shingle let loose of the drip edge mastic (after a number of years) and wicked water up and under the drip edge. So if the underlayment went over the drip edge there would be no way to seal it.
Apparently, only Florida building code allows dripedge to be placed over underlayment as long as it is sealed with roofing cement. If it is 1/2" per foot, shingles should not be installed in that situation. That is considered a low slope application, which I would then use granulated cap sheet. ruclips.net/p/PLCnkB2WaiXnDHywCBxh6eQyPT-gTcsDat - I did a series on a self adhered flat roof. Check the code in your area, but mostly it would be a sealed system.
Love the corner details. Note... ALL STANDARDS point to drip edge UNDER felt at eave, OVER felt at rake. Why? Any moisture finding its way to the underlayment will seep directly under that drip (if it's place on top of felt) onto your wood beneath causing rot. Otherwise great tutorial
Not all. Metal condensates. I would think the opposite. If there is no paper under the metal, condensation will end up rotting the wood. The metal is sealed with roofing cement so water isn't finding its way there as it stops when it hits the roofing cement, if it even makes it under the shingles. We don't have the ice dam situation here. Ice dam, water moves up into and underneath shingles farther than just rain. here is a link to a video I did about the dripedge over under ruclips.net/video/JmV5c52MUEI/видео.html
Eve drip edge should be under paper. This way water wont get to wood under drip edge. Gable end drip should be on top of paper.
Not the way we do it in south Florida. The shingles have to stick directly to the dripedge. We have to apply roofing cement to all flashings and we do not put metal directly onto plywood. It will condensate and rot the plywood even if it does not leak.
Shouldn't the paper go over the drip edge at the eave, on the bottom?
You can do it that way. I know it is done that way in many locales. Installing the dripedge over the tarpaper is the way it is done in South Florida. After the dripedge is installed, roofing cement is applied to the seam. This ties the tarpaper and dripedge together and also gives the shingle roof another anchor for wind uplift. We don't lay any metal directly to plywood, and recently since self-adhered underlayment is now popular, it is now part of the code that no metal lays directly on plywood. In this video I have applied roofing cement and shingles to the edge: Roofing - How to Install Asphalt Shingles - Getting Started Walkthrough
ruclips.net/video/Y7ak25Fw_wU/видео.html
There are often several ways of doing it right. Continue investigating until you are comfortable with the system you are installing.
So how do you do it with skip sheathing? Inclueding shingling
If you are talking about spaced sheathing where there is a 1x4 or a 1x6 with a 6" or so space between each board (as a perlin), you would use 18" rolls. This would be more in line with shakes, or maybe even slate, not asphalt shingles. If you put the roll at the top of each board, or at a select and consistent location, then the paper would hang down so far, then the shakes would be nailed on the perlins and slid under each row of paper. Then the next row of shakes would be laid at the edge of the paper consecutively where the paper would help waterproof the shakes before they had a chance to swell up from the rain. I don't even think they used to use paper, but we would now. To my knowledge, there is no more spaced sheathing allowed, but maybe in some locales or on some applications it is.
why not just bend around the corners? where to nail, how far apart? nail through both pcs? whats on top of that?
It would leave a hole at the top with this type of dripedge. Square broke drip (or drip without the "T") would work that way much better. In our area we nail 6" on center, about in the center of the metal, but sometimes back towards the roof. It depends on where your plywood ends. Yes, nail through both pieces. In our area we put roofing cement on top and then shingles. There are lots of comments that the drip should be under the paper. Yes, if you are not applying roofing cement, then it should be under the paper. That is how they do it up north, not here in South Florida.
Just bending around corner should be outlawed! Every such installation I've seen results in the fascia deteriorating at the corners. This method looks much preferable. If it is just bent at corners, the cut should be sealed with silicone or other waterproof caulk to prevent water from running up under bottom of shingle and behind drip edge where the "T" is cut to enable the bend.
How come a person couldnt make the metal long enough to cover the facia board
I suppose that could be done. That is typically done with fascia and is a different piece of metal or another piece of lumber usually 1 by lumber a little longer than the sub-fascia. Aluminum fascia would finish off the aluminum soffit and also cover the sub-fascia. Then the dripedge counter-flashes the fascia.
Those snips are left or right offset?....looks like a left offset
Yes, left. We always refer to them as right handed snips or reds. They cut straight and left.
Thanks. Video helped a lot. That said my roof is a little different. 3/4" / 12 pitch meets 2/12 gable pitch.
Red right. Green left
I thought you were not supposed to put it flush to the wall, so that the drips coming down will drop away from the wall?
This is T-metal so it is already out 1/2". Also there is a kick on the bottom of the dripedge to help with this also. If you don't put it tight to the fascia the wind can catch it.
What kind of screws or nails do you use?
For the dripedge, 1 1/4" ring-shanked roofing nails.
learned something new today
Thank you
How far apart are the nails? 6 inches and 12 inches in the center?
Yes. 6" on the laps and 12" in the field.
Would you not also use ice and water on the eaves and rakes? And is that a 30# or 15# felt?
Possibly. If there is a chance of ice dam, then yes, by code you need to use ice and water shield. I am using 30# felt in this video. This method is for Florida, which allows dripedge to go on top and roofing cement must be used. Check out this video and I explain a little more.
ruclips.net/video/JmV5c52MUEI/видео.html
What about fascia board. Under the dripedge
Yes, but fascia would have to go on first. Aluminum fascia would slip under. I agree it's a little tight.
Isn't self adhesive membrane required in place of tar paper in your area now? I think drip edge is required to be nailed 4" o.c. also.
Self adhered - not necessarily it is still ok to tape the seams of the plywood and dry in with 30# tarpaper. It is commonplace to cover the entire roof with self adhered underlayment, because the insurance company approves that for secondary water resistance credit on the wind mitigation form.
Yes, high wind over 110 mph requires 4" on center for the dripedge and 4" roof cement also. Thank you.
@@PracticalRoofingConcepts My 30 year old roof took a hit from hurricane Michael so it's time to replace it. I will have to crunch the numbers using tape plus #30 vs. membrane. The tape is pretty pricey. Can you recommend a brand that sticks well to OSB? Also, do you use a special roof cement that won't dissolve the starter shingles? Thanks for this video showing how to fit drip edge.
You really should consider using the self adhered products. Midstates - MSA - Quick-stick IWS. TAMKO Q-5 Roofing Cement. I think you will find that the difference is really not much. Make sure to go to a roofing supply to get the material. I am sure everyone is swamped so be patient. What use to take just a couple of days can now take several weeks (months). Good luck.
@@PracticalRoofingConceptsThank you.
Your installation allows water into the substrate at the bottom edge!
This is the Florida method. Before the shingles are installed a 6" bed of roofing cement is applied and the starter is set into it. It will even work well without the roofing cement. The roofing cement is more for wind. Remember, there is no chance of ice dam in Florida. The ice dams are the reason the tarpaper goes on top of the dripedge at the eaves.Yes, outside of Florida the dripedge goes under the tarpaper at the eaves and on top of tarpaper on rake edge. Thank you.
why do you put so many nails in the drip edge? Water entry points?
It is the code here in South Florida and it is for wind mostly.
Why not just bend the corner around ? Is it because it’s on a pitch edge?
Makes it tighter.
How come you didn't do the eave edge as one piece?
Mainly for the connection for the video, but also it is easier to get the corners right when you have the connection variable in the middle. You can focus on each corner and it doesn't matter about the middle "lap" as long as there is enough lap and it is tight.
Drip under ice shield or paper
We don't use ice and water shield here. Have been using self adhered material, but still the same as tarpaper. We put the dripedge over the paper on the edge and use roofing cement to seal. It works fine and doesn't cause problems. The only time there are problems is when someone lines up the starter seam with the first shingle seam and does not put enough roofing cement. ruclips.net/video/JmV5c52MUEI/видео.html
Nice hat
Way to many nails at the perimeter felt . . . Once you install the metal you nail . . . Will hold secure
I know, but it's code in my area to nail off the felt that way. More nails won't hurt anything.
You should have just cut the 45 at the corners. You wasted a lot of time for nothing.
Do you mean on the tee?
Wrapping the corners are pointless, you won't be able to get eavesteough up under with a wrapped corner.
It is pretty tight. Agreed. Should not have it so tight.
Again . . . No need to put so many nails in metal as shingles nailed down will take care of fastening
It's code in Florida to nail off the metal.
Sorry in the Botton the felt should be over the dripedge thats just logic
And just think, I say the exact opposite. Check out this video ruclips.net/video/JmV5c52MUEI/видео.html
What seems logical often doesn't have the most desirable outcome in the real world... this is why building codes tend to change over time.
No, logic says that in a high velocity hurricane zone, the dripedge nailed 4" oc goes on top of the #30.
What size is the tarper or black thing or 15 or 30 lb ? Thank YOu
30#
THANK YOU SO MUCH@@PracticalRoofingConcepts