6a lead training

6a lead training
#climbing #climber #training #hard #lead #leadclimbing #fall #safetyfirst #toprope #autobelay #belay #motivation #foryoupage #4up #garmin #fitness #belaying #whipper #sportclimbing #garminforerunner #garminforerunner965 #boulder #bouldering
Gear I use (affiliate links):
Recording:
GoPro Hero11 - amzn.to/44qHWUq
Samsung Galaxy S22 Ultra - amzn.to/3JOX8Tk
GoPro Screen protector - amzn.to/3KbnvmT
Waterproof enclosure - amzn.to/3JQgs2x
Selfie stick with tripod - amzn.to/3pEFOtq
Tripod mount adapter - amzn.to/44s4ZhO
256GB SD card - amzn.to/3PLkVau
Tracking activity:
Garmin Forerunner 965 - amzn.to/3ETJ48j
Garmin HRM-Pro Plus - amzn.to/3D1JgBq
Garmin HRM-Swim - amzn.to/45mOiUS
Garmin Index S2 Smart Scale - amzn.to/3pv7hOk
Running:
Asics Men's GlideRide 3 - amzn.to/3D5nBsg
Asics Men's Novablast 3 - amzn.to/48um3pR
Asics Evoride Tokyo - amzn.to/44rh3jc
Asics Trail Scout 2 - amzn.to/3D1sgv4
Hydration backpack 1.5L - amzn.to/46AUv1r
Climbing:
Belaying Petzl Grigri+ - amzn.to/3PLkvRs
Shoes Miura VS La Sportiva - amzn.to/3QGYu6Y
Shoes Boreal Joker VS - amzn.to/46G9xlt
Shoes Tarantula La Sportiva - amzn.to/3pxOUZ4
BeastMaker hanging board - amzn.to/3XG2AOd
Psichi Ultimate Grip CHALK - amzn.to/3qhcTMr
Skin repair Garnier - amzn.to/3D3Q8hN
Skin repair RHINO - amzn.to/3ZQ6llh
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[@Beam_of_Love]

That second to last clip probably would have been a bunch easier if you had done the next move first. Most route setters do "nice" clipping positions, so if it feels awkward, you probably haven't gone far enough.

[@BetterEveryWeekForever]

Ah so that's what that was! I was thinking to myself I need to train clipping in awkward positions, this seems to happen often recently for me

[@Beam_of_Love]

@@BetterEveryWeekForever It took (and still takes) me a good bit of convincing to not clip as soon as I can physically reach the next quickdraw, but rather when I have a nice stable position. The (quite logical) advice I got myself is, it's perfectly fine and safe to clip just at hip height - since any point earlier you'll just take out more slack, and should you fall while clipping above you, you're gonna actually fall farther than if you'd just climbed on for 1 or 2 more moves. Just very conciously hammering that into my head and clipping "late" on easy routes at least got me farther in that habit.
I hope you don't mind advice from someone who can just about onsight 5b and still is very scared about lead climbing any old 6a or higher. 😅

[@BetterEveryWeekForever]

Thanks, I appreciate all advice! This is in fact what I am trying to do and say to myself on some easier climbs (if I remember about it) and then as soon as the difficulty increases, it's hard to listen to the right voice in my head 😅. We've done some fall practice before to unlock the psyche and get rid of the fear of falling but yeah the clipping timing is still something I need to remember to practice more. Stay strong and safe!