Hey Ribsey! Glad you discovered the c330. I had a c3 in my stable of cameras for years and found that it could hold its place against my HBlad in certain situations and definitely against my Rcord, too. First, you will find that the Seiko shutter is bulletproof while the Rollei shutters are prone to stick. The Mamiya lens is also pretty damn sharp, too. I found that the tlr design was good for portraits because it never goes blank at the time of exposure like the Hblad 500c does. For macro photograhy you will need to know two things: 1) the viewing lens is about 2 inches higher than the lower lens. You could just crank up your tripod the correct distance or you could obtain a "paramender" which does the same thing but more accurately. Also, look at the side of the bellows. You will find a series of numbers like 80, 105, 135, etc with corresponding lines in different colors; these are different lens focal lengths. As you crank out your bellows, the lines will indicate the amount of additional exposure each lens will need at that extension in terms of numbers (factors) like " 1.5" or "2.0." Just multiply your shutter speed by this factor or adjust your "f" stop. This should give a ballpark idea for exposure compensation. Hope this helps.
Hi! I changed my Rolleiflex's original focusing screen for a Brightscreen, by Rick Oleson. I really like it, and Rick's a very nice guy. I chose the MP version - microprism - as I find the one with the spli image quite distracting. You have a tendency to only trust it and end up always moving the camera to check if it's in focus only with the split image. Also, depending on the light it gets dark. I prefer to trust my eyes and, in case of doubt, use the magnifier. By the way, Rick gave me a very nice tip on focusing with the magnifier: the farthest you keep it from your eye, the higher the magnification, the easiest to focus! It works, simple as that! I believe any repair shop can help you with the winding arm. My best!
I'd suggest picking up a junker c330 and take the screw from that. It never hurts to have some spare parts. As a plus, you'll probably end up with an extra lens, since many of the junkers on eBay come with a "sticky" lens attached. The lenses are relatively easy to CLA yourself, so a little cleaning and they are as good as new.
@@ribsy It’s likely that they just used some standard size of screw rather than designing something unique just for this camera. If you find a decent camera repair technician they will probably have one to fit; I had no problem replacing two different size missing screws on by Russian rangefinder cameras.
They have a tripod adapter that solves the problem with parallax when shooting close... You focus, and then the adapter raises the camera up so the taking lens is in line with the viewing lens
My tutor taught me the matchbox rule with these. The distance between the centre of the viewing and taking lens is exactly on matchbox (ship, not swan) tall. Focus, then grab your matchbox and raise your tripod up.
@@PhilMakesThings You can also put a bit of tape around the centre column at the same distance there is between the viewing and taking lens. Then just raise the column to the tape.
The one and two digit bodies are heavier and I find the three digit bodies like the C220 or C330 perfect. Yeah, they are amazing bodies with fantastic lenses.
I have two Mamiya TLRs, MamiyaFlex and Mamiya C3. On your camera, you can use a paperclip or you can use a small pushrod that is pressed into the handle system. I have repaired both of my cameras and bought them back to life. You will enjoy this camera.
Great into to your new camera. There’s a built-in exposure compensation scale built into the camera. It’s on the left side, opposite of the shutter release. It’s the plate that goes in and out with the bellows.
Try a camera repair shop. Most of the smaller repair shops have dozens of drawers of old spares stripped from destroyed cameras. I am sure you will have luck there ! By the way, do not go to the big flashy repair shops , they usually do not do the work themselves but pass it on to the small guy. You also save a fortune ! I call my C330 "The Elephant ", as it is huge , bulletproof and reliable and takes pics that can stand with any make of camera in the world. A gem of a camera.
I shoot with the C-330’s predecessor, the C-3. I’ve found that after getting used to adjusting for parallax my compositions are very good. Mamiya lens sets are very sharp with good colour rendition. The ability to change lenses on a TLR is incredible. Overall it’s one of my favourite TLR’s to shoot with! It sucks that your film winder screw was lost. Im uncertain as to the solution for you other than sourcing a parts camera. Love your work!!🔥👍👊🔥
I have been a Mamiya Twin Lens Reflex owner since the 1970's. I have a Mamiya C33, Mamiya C220, Mamiya C330, and have most the lenses a 55mm, 65mm, 80mm, 135mm, 180mm, and I am hoping to find a 250mm and a 105mm to complete my lens collection but they are hard to find in good condition at a good price. My first suggestion is to purchase a left hand grip makes it much easier to use the camera. There are other grips like the pistol grip but the one I mentioned is my favorite. For close-up photography a Paramender is essential as another viewer mentioned, what it does is that it attaches to a tripod and once you set up your camera it can be raised up so that the taking lens is where the viewing lens was and the photo is not cut in half. There are two Paramenders, model 2, and model 3 the difference is that with model 3 you can do panoramic shots. the three is very rare to find because not many were made. I have both. As far as the screens they are replaceable and there are about six different screens. There are about four different finders, some with built-in cds metering and some without. You also have a magnifying glass for accurate focusing, a big focusing knob adapter and about two tripod adapters that make it easier to attach or remove the camera to your tripod. Google Mamiya C330 Manuel, if you have not ready and study it you will be amazed at what you can do with this camera. One last thing, the difference between the MamiyaFlex, C22, C33, C220, and C330 is that any version of C330 you get, the C330 cocks the shutter as you advance the film with the winding crank. The rest don't. Hope this helps you and makes you a Mamiya TLR convert like me.
@@ribsy I don't have everything I mentoned because I only have bought what I needed. All my cameras have a waist level finder because I find the Porrofinder and the prism finder awkward to use. As far as the finders with built in light meters I don't use them, i find that a one degree spotmeter ( i think now its called a spot sensor) is more accurate for my work. I don't own all the screens because my cameras work fine with what they came with. I mostly mentioned everything you can buy to let you know how extensive of a system the Mamiya TLR is. All i own is the camras, the lenses, the paramenders , and the left hand grip for each camera. I have in the past own some of the other accessories but sold them because they did not meet my needs.As far as your screen issue what I suggest is you either change if focusing is a big problem or think of getting the Magnifier(on ebay magnifier hood)because it magnifies the image on the focusing screen 5.5 times. As far as the film advance crank take it to a camera repair shop and see if they have the screw and can repair it as someone suggested. if you go the paperclip rout you can damage the threads and if you ever find the screws you can never screw it in. Its a nice looking camera. I did notice that the viewfinder is dirty on the video son have it cleaned that could also help with your focusing problem.
Whether in NYC or London, you must have access to several camera repair shops. They keep bins of old cameras as parts supply. Your lost hinge screw is probably not a common problem, so it's likely that such a shop will have a parts camera from which to pirate the part. It's likely that this is a part common to all of the Mamiya "C" models, so not too hard to find. Don't start jamming other "close" fit screws or you will damage the threads, in which case you would have to replace the handle as well. When installing the new screw, try a tiny dab of "Lock-Tight" in the thread to keep it from working loose again.
i see advice on paperclip wire etc. keep in mind you could damage the threads. maybe advance it with a light hand til you resolve the thread size/pitch and perhaps get the proper screw
Until you can get it to a repair shop, a piece of wire, maybe from a paper clip, should work. On my Yashica TLR, the screw is about a half-inch long, but I think a cut-down paper clip would work.
I was thinking of a piece of piano wire, if the hole is really small. Stick it all the way thru and bend the ends to make it stay. If the hole goes thru all 3 segments, that is.
I have the C220. Regarding exposure compensation for the bellow extension - it has guides lines and numbers on the left hand side of the bellows to tell you what exposure compensation you need to dial in. For close up/macro you can get a tripod attachment called a paramender or you use the parallax correction lines in the focusing screen - the top one is for when your x1.5 exposure correction the second line for x2 and approximate (there no line) across the middle of the screen for x3. Enjoy your C330 I love my C220.
I traded my C220 cuz I hated the lack of combined film advance & shutter cocking. I missed so many shots cuz of the shutter. So glad I have my Rolleiflex 2.8D
@@markgarcia8253 I can see how some people wouldn't like it. I have other cameras that require separate wind/cock so its not an issue for me. The interchangeable lenses and bellows for close up are what I value in this rig. Those Rolleiflexes are nice though.
Suggestion.. Take it to an musical instrument woodwind shop, like Roberto’s, they will probably have a rod to fit, or something similar. Love TLRs had a few back in the day.
I have 4 C33's and only one has the original crank shaft pin. The pin is a rather simple part, it is a 1.8mm shaft that is 13mm long with a 1.6mm long section on one end threaded with a standard 1.8mm thread, and a .38mm screwdriver slot on the other end (many parts from the C33 will work on the C330, I'm not absolutely sure about this part, but I'd bet it is the same).
Use a safety pin as a temporary replacement for the missing screw. Also keep an eye out for a C220 body. Mechanically simpler and lighter, and it takes the same lenses, viewfinder and focusing screen. I have a C3, C33, C330 and a C220 in my collection. They're all great cameras!
There are several different screens with the split prism focus aid, No. 2 has a 4 degree split image and No. 3 has a 6 degree which is much more "sensitive" to errors, get on if you can. As for exposure compensation, the pointer moving in the viewfinder will tell you how much compensation is needed with the standard lens, but you will need a different mask for other lenses. For it work accurately, remember to set the focal length of the lens on the dial on the left side of the body! Enjoy, I have a C330f and it is my favourite camera.
The camera is a gem. So go to a jewelry shop to find the right screw for the winder. It sometimes helps if you move your head to get rid of the black half of the split image center.
I own a mamiya c22. Love it. There is a line on the viewing screen to help with parallax correction. There are numerous photographers on RUclips that help with using the Mamiya TLR. Good luck and fim forever!📸
Fantastic, great camera. Good suggestions for the screw, you could also pick up a dead one for spare parts? For macro, you want a paramender - which allows the camera to move vertically on the tripod. You could try and guess as well. I picked one up recently, but only used it once for a landscape so far. I don’t think the parallax makes much difference for distances over 1m. I never use split glass for focusing. Always the magnifying glass and I’ve never missed focus. I have the 55, 80 f2.8 and 105 DS (this one has a self timer) lens. Never seen the 65 for sale. I haven’t bothered with the 135mm or higher lenses…. I think parallax would be more of an issue with these. I carry mine in a backpack, never on my neck. No problems so far!
A cut down paper clip is the easiest way to get back on the road again in the short term. I don't have a camera store or repair shop in my hometown anymore so I went to a hobby store that had trains and they had a plethora of small screws and nuts. They helped me find the one I needed and had several ideas how to maybe effect a better repair. In your case maybe a longer screw with a nut that used s small drop Loctite red to help lock in place. Another place that usually has small screws is a shop the has eyeglasses
Bummer on the screw falling out but one you'll be able to solve. I'm pretty sure that Japan uses metric screws rather than imperial screws so worth bearing in mind.
In the early 80s, I had a C330 with all the lenses and accessories forit, including a prism finder. Lovely camera, but a bit on the heavy side. I sold the lot including a 4X5 outfit ( and Two Beattie screens ), and an ETRS outfit with full array of lenses and accessories for a song, in a moment of madness.
You can try a spring bar that they use for watch straps/bracelets. Go to a jewellery shop, they usually have a bunch of spares and it'll cost about 50p.
Great camera. I have the older C2 model with the winding nob and I love mine. Got mine for a great deal. As for fixing the winding crank on yours you might be able to fix it with one of those spring loaded pins for a wrist watch.
Had to have a quick check to make sure mine wasn't stolen :) A few quick thoughts... 1. I don't find the split image 'shading out' on mine even with slower lenses like the 135mm, but I nearly always use the magnifier so maybe that's why? 2. If the lateral reversal thing is doing your head in (it did mine!) when composing handheld, you can pick up an eye level prism pretty cheaply (I paid around £60 for mine) and.. 3. There are a mark one and two versions of lenses for these. If you intend picking up another lens (say a 135 or 180mm for portraits) the later versions are dearer. But...the earlier versions are sharper! Apparently when these came out originally the main markets were wedding and portrait photographers, and some were complaining that the lenses were TOO SHARP. So when they brought out the second version they actually toned down the sharpness a little. Great camera though with excellent lenses.
@@ribsy Nah just kidding because mine is exactly the same camera, a c330 professional f with 80mm blue dot lens. The lenses are super sharp though on a par with Hasselblad for a fraction of the price IMO, especially the 1st versions. Good luck with it and hope you get the crank issue sorted.
When I studied at photography college in the early 70’s Mamiyas were the standard medium format cameras for student use. That they survived years of constant use by not very gentle operators is testimony to their build quality. Also, in such a highly competitive and ultra critical environment the lenses were very well regarded. BTW, if shooting macro on one you’ll need the accessory made by Mamiya to overcome parallax error, where after framing and focusing it lifts the camera so that the taking lens moves to where the viewing lens was.
Great choice! I bought one in 2014 and loved it so much that I had bought a back-up and I am glad that I did because the prices now for them have increased quite a bit. I am also not a fan of the split focusing screens, both of my Mamiya C330's did not come with that type of screen so it can be changed. If you are into trying out double exposures, this is a perfect camera for that. Have fun with it!
I use the Ford Pinto of the C series, the C22. I have the 105mm f/3.5 lens and the 250mm lens. It is a great camera, knob winding works well. I picked up a reflex viewfinder at a flea market that is nice to have. Sadly mine does not have a cable release. So I can't really use B mode. Just the 1 second timer. I do like the C330 though. But I got mine for $50 so I can't complain.
You can replace the split viewing screen with a simple fresnel screen. They have a pistol grip that connects to the bottom shutter release (for sports photography using pop down frame in the top cover. I had one in the 60's. Great camera. Check with an optical or watch shop and see if they have a crew that might work. If you find a screw, use some Loctite (blue) to secure the screw.
I have the c220 and the c33. The former is of course lighter in terms of features, but also lighter in terms of weight. I checked, it is only 300g or so, but it surely feels like a kilo. This makes the c220 the camera of choice for me....I would like to have the parallax correction though. 🙂 To replace your screw: I think the best and only option you have is to buy a broken c330 and use it as a source of spares. I did that. It cost me less than £20.
The reason why you have to overexpose Macro photos is that because the light has to travel further in the lens, it gets spread out more, so the light is less concentrated. Like how a candle is very bright up close, but very dim far away. It’s the inverse-square law
You got awesome camera. I have much older mamiyaflex c2. It's basically the same thing as C330 but looks much more vintage. I still can use all those lenses that were made later for C330 and get best shots.
Nice! The halfmoon focusing screen requires time to learn, I have yet to properly learn focusing with my rolleicord III with a better focusing screen! With my yashica mat 124g I find it bright and nice and when I get more practice I can get more confident with getting my photos in focus!
At least in my C33, the bellows extension factor to adjust your exposure when close focusing is in the viewfinder (there's a a a little scale with 1.5x, 2x, 2.5x, etc). It even adjusts based on which lens you have selected, which is awesome! Still got to deal with parallax, so super close ups are still tricky.
You're quite lucky to have one with a split image screen, they're not that common.There are two types of screen with split image, the smaller one is useless. I had problems focusing with plain screen but found the split screen (one with larger centre) easier. Also have a screen with just micro-prisms in centre, might be a good compromise between the other two for you.
Ribsy , just bought one for £125 ! Good working con, cleaned bellow, glass etc , loaded with film …. Can’t wait to get out with it, pictures are supposed to be so detail and amazing. My prism is just a clear circle in the center not like yours ? You can buy standard replacement new focus prisms for them on eBay
@@ribsy I told the seller …. It was his dads for 20 yrs in the loft , it would need full service , gamble if it worked etc , to be fair I spent 4 hrs going over , dismantling and cleaning it , my model is just the c330 profe, yours is the f ? What’s the difference? Love the shows
Ribsy you can buy various viewfinder screens, there’s a choice of various ones. Think the Mamiya C330 and the RB/RZ are more studio based so I think that’s why they can be heavy, more used to being on a tripod.
I thought about getting one of these a while back, until I realised how big they are!! Lovely camera though. And as for the split prism, they need your eye to be in a really specific place to see both halves. Using the magnifier should help as it’ll centre your eye 👍
I inherited my father’s C33 plus all his lenses (he had all but one of the focal lengths made for this camera - Unfortunately they all need CLAs 😭). One issue on mine that might be a common problem is that if the back isn’t pressed closed hard enough it may not have pressed a special button that engages with the winding mechanism to stop the winder at each frame. It took me a while to figure out why the winder wouldn’t always stop and I could wind through a whole roll without shooting a frame. Anyway, it’s a great camera. I’m looking forward to seeing your shots from it.
It most likely is a JIS screw (Japan Industrial Standard - compare it with DIN or UNC) The C330 is indeed a wonderful camera, I find it quite light to be honest. Maybe because I have a good neoprene strap and that I also carry around a RB67 quite often 😆
I'd love a c330 or c220 (smaller lighter) someday, seem rad! I think there is a little indicator on the bellows helping you figure out how much compensation you need for extension factor so I hear anyway. Off the top of my head I can think of one other tlr with Interchangeable lenses and that's the uncommon rather expensive Konica Omegaflex m which is also the only 6 x 7 tlr I know of. Hope you can find a pin or screw for that winder!
I have one too... As for macro... On my focusing screen there numbers for exposure compensation... And when you pull out the bellows there's a little metal indicator that moves over the exposure compensation marks... So it's easy to compensate... It works... I've used it once to photograph a dragonfly and printed 20x20 cm... It looks scary...
Nice video, I got a C33 (65/80/180) as well as a Rolleiflex and they're both excellent machines. I love the fact that both are mechanical and can be serviced potentially forever, even be quick fixed with a paperclip :). The Mami is kind of a truck compared to the more elegantl Rollei, also my Rolleiflex is quite ancient and I feel it needs to be taken care of more- the C33 can go offroad...
A toothpick broken in just the tips its a quick fix, but also i tried my luck in a sunglass shop, a watch shop, and they had a solution, or even in an old electronic repair shop if you can find one, they usually have all types os small screws for it. Good luck with it
Perhaps you could get the mini screw-drivers and use the shafts. A pack of them have different sized shafts (and strong) and they are cheap. Just cut them to the right size
We used to use one for weddings back in the 80s and few other photographers used them to one had the prism finder from a Kiev on his as they were cheap
What a wonderful camera! Congrats! 👏 For the macro stuff: I am wondering how you might handle the parallax correction? For the exposure I found a diy tool on a website that is used to calculate the exposure correction in large format photography. The website is unfortunately in German but the Google translator might help. Will send you an Insta DM because I can't post links here. (RUclips would delete my comment automatically.) For the split circle. I have used this kind of focus screen a lot with my Exakta varex and Praktica. The idea is that, if there is a line, it's divided and set apart when it's out of focus. The more it gets in focus the closer the two parts get. When it's completely aligned and can be seen just as a single line it's in focus. Hope this fuzzy explanation is clear enough. (I am not a native speaker.) Can't wait to see more of your pictures with this great camera.
You can use a mamiya paramender on a tripod. (You could also guess, there is a thread above discussing this). It shifts the camera up to put the take lens in the position of the view lens when you are set up.
with macro on this system, you Also have to account for paralax in the framing of the shot, two lenses, so the "cones" of each get smaller, and hence further away from each other, so need to compensate ( why universal style viewfinders on Leica 'M' and Linhof Technika LF cameras tilt the finder with focus knob!).
put ground glass at film plane, and use black cloth like sinar and compose image throug the picture taking lens, then measure the distance in tripod base and camera holdind base flange, make a wooden bloc of that sie, rie camera and set it directly to that block, so this way u can use use it like slr 120 camera.
I've had terrible luck getting screws for old Japanese cameras. A lot of them use old Japanese industry sizes which were oddball ones like 0.7mm and 2.3mm for example, which is really hard to come across for new screws. I ended up drilling the hole out and tapping new threads in a more conventional size for a missing screw on one of my TLRs. Such a bummer to have to pull out the big guns over something like a missing screw, but sometimes that's the way it is :(
I have a Yashica 12 that I had CLA'd by Mark Hamma. Always wanted to try street photography in NY since I'm NJ, but the current situations I wouldn't feel safe since I don't know the area (where to go and where not to). Does B&H have a repair department where you may be able to get a screw?
I have a c330 but doesn’t have the split screen focusing which I also hate, had a look on eBay and you can get replacement screen (non split screen) for about £40
good video, with that screw problem, maybe see a watch maker, they could turn one up for you, also when you get a replacement, add a drop, ie on a sewing needle, of "loctite" to the thread, to stop it coming loose again, NOT the permanent one (different grades for diferent purposes), just a general purpose one, which you can take apart later on!!
The c330 is like the camera version of you lol. Interested in seeing some shots using the 250. I've been eyeing that lens for a bit. I really like long focal length, landscape shots on square format.
I have several of these beasts from the 220 through to the 330 Pro and I love them all. As you likely know by now screens are interchangeable if you can find one you like better. Also using the built in magnifying loop usually helps. At my age it’s usually my eyeballs that are faulty but if required I can always blame it on the screen! Lastly from your look on the video it seems like you have enough muscle to carry one of these around. Have fun with it.
Im really enjoying your videos bro, but a little critique, the audio is jumping to extremes sometimes, makes my speakers vibrate like hell rofl. Cheers man
I have the Mamiya Flex which also has the interchangeable lenses too :-) Awesome camera :-) You have to compensate when shooting close!!.... Look it up before you start taking close up shots. Also....... You do know that there is a magnifying glass there in the viewing hood?
I just bought a Mamiya C220 plus 55mm, 80 mm, 135 mm and 250 mm lenses at the biggest photoshop of Europe. The body and lenses had their CLA. The shutter of the 55 does not fire. The rest of the lenses have rotten apertures. What to do ......?
@@ribsy good luck. Whenever you are visiting San Francisco please let me know. We can both shoot with a C330. Mine: ruclips.net/video/tD2FbOlOqj0/видео.html
A short term MacGyver would be a safety pin. Replacing that screw depends on your willingnes to hussle and your intended budget - the nominal cost of that screw measured in cents, or single digit dollars, at best. Finding the right one, aye, there's the rub. Taking it to a watch repair shop or camera repair shop of your choice might cost you lots more. If you own a caliper and know a thing or two about threads, you can figure out the size/ diameter of that thing, and if it's a metric or inch thread. Knowing that, you can order a fitting screw online for a few cents.
Is it actually a screw and not just a pin? I find it hard to believe it's not just a pin, in which case I think you should be able to just figure out the gauge and get little piece of wire or something to slip in there to hold it in. You can probably also just find small pins that may be appropriate, I bet somewhere someone has info on what the size is.
i have one with the 180mm and the 80mm... my problem is sometime the lens shutter does not cock soo you can shoot a roll or two and everything will be underexposed :) im trying to get into the habit of checking everything is in operation before i shoot. also if you shoot b&w we have a dark room in oldstreet come down for a review man would be really cool!
@@ribsy it happens when you don't wind correctly! Just make sure your shutter works before you load... Can do this by shooting blanks on multi exposure. Like I said mate I don't know where you based in London but were over in oldstreet... SAIM, Shoreditch academy of image making, we've got a dark room with several enlargers and scanners. Come for a visit some time dude!
I have a C330 Professional and the 80/2.8, the only problem I have right now is that the leatherette is pulling off the body. And it’s heavy. 😅 I can look at my screw, if you want… 😸
Hey Ribsey! Glad you discovered the c330. I had a c3 in my stable of cameras for years and found that it could hold its place against my HBlad in certain situations and definitely against my Rcord, too. First, you will find that the Seiko shutter is bulletproof while the Rollei shutters are prone to stick. The Mamiya lens is also pretty damn sharp, too. I found that the tlr design was good for portraits because it never goes blank at the time of exposure like the Hblad 500c does. For macro photograhy you will need to know two things: 1) the viewing lens is about 2 inches higher than the lower lens. You could just crank up your tripod the correct distance or you could obtain a "paramender" which does the same thing but more accurately. Also, look at the side of the bellows. You will find a series of numbers like 80, 105, 135, etc with corresponding lines in different colors; these are different lens focal lengths. As you crank out your bellows, the lines will indicate the amount of additional exposure each lens will need at that extension in terms of numbers (factors) like " 1.5" or "2.0." Just multiply your shutter speed by this factor or adjust your "f" stop. This should give a ballpark idea for exposure compensation. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the advice!
My C lenses stick a lot, but they are easy to fix DIY....just open it and clean with some lighter fluid.
Hi! I changed my Rolleiflex's original focusing screen for a Brightscreen, by Rick Oleson. I really like it, and Rick's a very nice guy. I chose the MP version - microprism - as I find the one with the spli image quite distracting. You have a tendency to only trust it and end up always moving the camera to check if it's in focus only with the split image. Also, depending on the light it gets dark. I prefer to trust my eyes and, in case of doubt, use the magnifier. By the way, Rick gave me a very nice tip on focusing with the magnifier: the farthest you keep it from your eye, the higher the magnification, the easiest to focus! It works, simple as that!
I believe any repair shop can help you with the winding arm. My best!
Yea deft gonna hit up his shop
And I believe that the winding arm was held on with a hinge pin and not a screw as you reported.
I'd suggest picking up a junker c330 and take the screw from that. It never hurts to have some spare parts. As a plus, you'll probably end up with an extra lens, since many of the junkers on eBay come with a "sticky" lens attached. The lenses are relatively easy to CLA yourself, so a little cleaning and they are as good as new.
Yea not a bad call. I have no more room tho!
@@ribsy
It’s likely that they just used some standard size of screw rather than designing something unique just for this camera. If you find a decent camera repair technician they will probably have one to fit; I had no problem replacing two different size missing screws on by Russian rangefinder cameras.
They have a tripod adapter that solves the problem with parallax when shooting close... You focus, and then the adapter raises the camera up so the taking lens is in line with the viewing lens
It’s called a Mamiya Paramender. I have one but rarely use it as macro on a tlr is a pain in the arse.
My tutor taught me the matchbox rule with these. The distance between the centre of the viewing and taking lens is exactly on matchbox (ship, not swan) tall. Focus, then grab your matchbox and raise your tripod up.
@@PhilMakesThings You can also put a bit of tape around the centre column at the same distance there is between the viewing and taking lens. Then just raise the column to the tape.
@@mattdavis9986 Absolutely. Many ways to skin a cat… the tape idea certainly negates the need to carry a matchbox with you at all times 🤣
@@PhilMakesThings we could modernise the idea and try to find a lighter that’s the same length as a box of matches
I have a C3 and I love it, although it's big and heavy, most of my medium format photos are taken with it and I love the quality of it.
Yea agreed! Quality seems legit
I'v got a C3. I love this lens... but I hate this waist finder because sincerely I'm never sure about the focus on this glass.
The one and two digit bodies are heavier and I find the three digit bodies like the C220 or C330 perfect. Yeah, they are amazing bodies with fantastic lenses.
Me too! Just got it today!
I've the 80mm lens and also the 65/3.5 and 180/4.5... And can say they're all fine lenses...
For sure! Love the 80 so far
I have two Mamiya TLRs, MamiyaFlex and Mamiya C3. On your camera, you can use a paperclip or you can use a small pushrod that is pressed into the handle system. I have repaired both of my cameras and bought them back to life. You will enjoy this camera.
Yea def! Really excited to use this camera a lot
Great into to your new camera. There’s a built-in exposure compensation scale built into the camera. It’s on the left side, opposite of the shutter release. It’s the plate that goes in and out with the bellows.
Yea gotcha! I’ll study that a bit 😀
Try a camera repair shop. Most of the smaller repair shops have dozens of drawers of old spares stripped from destroyed cameras. I am sure you will have luck there ! By the way, do not go to the big flashy repair shops , they usually do not do the work themselves but pass it on to the small guy. You also save a fortune ! I call my C330 "The Elephant ", as it is huge , bulletproof and reliable and takes pics that can stand with any make of camera in the world. A gem of a camera.
Yea! I will definitely do so
I shoot with the C-330’s predecessor, the C-3.
I’ve found that after getting used to adjusting for parallax my compositions are very good.
Mamiya lens sets are very sharp with good colour rendition.
The ability to change lenses on a TLR is incredible.
Overall it’s one of my favourite TLR’s to shoot with!
It sucks that your film winder screw was lost.
Im uncertain as to the solution for you other than sourcing a parts camera.
Love your work!!🔥👍👊🔥
Yea for sure! I need to mess with the parallax a bit
I have been a Mamiya Twin Lens Reflex owner since the 1970's. I have a Mamiya C33, Mamiya C220, Mamiya C330, and have most the lenses a 55mm, 65mm, 80mm, 135mm, 180mm, and I am hoping to find a 250mm and a 105mm to complete my lens collection but they are hard to find in good condition at a good price. My first suggestion is to purchase a left hand grip makes it much easier to use the camera. There are other grips like the pistol grip but the one I mentioned is my favorite. For close-up photography a Paramender is essential as another viewer mentioned, what it does is that it attaches to a tripod and once you set up your camera it can be raised up so that the taking lens is where the viewing lens was and the photo is not cut in half. There are two Paramenders, model 2, and model 3 the difference is that with model 3 you can do panoramic shots. the three is very rare to find because not many were made. I have both. As far as the screens they are replaceable and there are about six different screens. There are about four different finders, some with built-in cds metering and some without. You also have a magnifying glass for accurate focusing, a big focusing knob adapter and about two tripod adapters that make it easier to attach or remove the camera to your tripod. Google Mamiya C330 Manuel, if you have not ready and study it you will be amazed at what you can do with this camera. One last thing, the difference between the MamiyaFlex, C22, C33, C220, and C330 is that any version of C330 you get, the C330 cocks the shutter as you advance the film with the winding crank. The rest don't. Hope this helps you and makes you a Mamiya TLR convert like me.
Wow you have the whole squad!
@@ribsy I don't have everything I mentoned because I only have bought what I needed. All my cameras have a waist level finder because I find the Porrofinder and the prism finder awkward to use. As far as the finders with built in light meters I don't use them, i find that a one degree spotmeter ( i think now its called a spot sensor) is more accurate for my work. I don't own all the screens because my cameras work fine with what they came with. I mostly mentioned everything you can buy to let you know how extensive of a system the Mamiya TLR is. All i own is the camras, the lenses, the paramenders , and the left hand grip for each camera. I have in the past own some of the other accessories but sold them because they did not meet my needs.As far as your screen issue what I suggest is you either change if focusing is a big problem or think of getting the Magnifier(on ebay magnifier hood)because it magnifies the image on the focusing screen 5.5 times. As far as the film advance crank take it to a camera repair shop and see if they have the screw and can repair it as someone suggested. if you go the paperclip rout you can damage the threads and if you ever find the screws you can never screw it in. Its a nice looking camera. I did notice that the viewfinder is dirty on the video son have it cleaned that could also help with your focusing problem.
Whether in NYC or London, you must have access to several camera repair shops. They keep bins of old cameras as parts supply. Your lost hinge screw is probably not a common problem, so it's likely that such a shop will have a parts camera from which to pirate the part. It's likely that this is a part common to all of the Mamiya "C" models, so not too hard to find. Don't start jamming other "close" fit screws or you will damage the threads, in which case you would have to replace the handle as well. When installing the new screw, try a tiny dab of "Lock-Tight" in the thread to keep it from working loose again.
Sounds good - thanks
i see advice on paperclip wire etc. keep in mind you could damage the threads. maybe advance it with a light hand til you resolve the thread size/pitch and perhaps get the proper screw
yea good call! don't want to damage the thread
Until you can get it to a repair shop, a piece of wire, maybe from a paper clip, should work. On my Yashica TLR, the screw is about a half-inch long, but I think a cut-down paper clip would work.
Yea I’m thinking the same! Gonna try it
I was thinking of a piece of piano wire, if the hole is really small. Stick it all the way thru and bend the ends to make it stay. If the hole goes thru all 3 segments, that is.
I have the C220. Regarding exposure compensation for the bellow extension - it has guides lines and numbers on the left hand side of the bellows to tell you what exposure compensation you need to dial in. For close up/macro you can get a tripod attachment called a paramender or you use the parallax correction lines in the focusing screen - the top one is for when your x1.5 exposure correction the second line for x2 and approximate (there no line) across the middle of the screen for x3. Enjoy your C330 I love my C220.
I traded my C220 cuz I hated the lack of combined film advance & shutter cocking. I missed so many shots cuz of the shutter. So glad I have my Rolleiflex 2.8D
@@markgarcia8253 I can see how some people wouldn't like it. I have other cameras that require separate wind/cock so its not an issue for me. The interchangeable lenses and bellows for close up are what I value in this rig. Those Rolleiflexes are nice though.
Yea I’ve heard about this! Prob will just wing it
Suggestion.. Take it to an musical instrument woodwind shop, like Roberto’s, they will probably have a rod to fit, or something similar.
Love TLRs had a few back in the day.
yea def good idea
I have 4 C33's and only one has the original crank shaft pin. The pin is a rather simple part, it is a 1.8mm shaft that is 13mm long with a 1.6mm long section on one end threaded with a standard 1.8mm thread, and a .38mm screwdriver slot on the other end (many parts from the C33 will work on the C330, I'm not absolutely sure about this part, but I'd bet it is the same).
Thanks for the info! Very helpful
Use a safety pin as a temporary replacement for the missing screw.
Also keep an eye out for a C220 body. Mechanically simpler and lighter, and it takes the same lenses, viewfinder and focusing screen.
I have a C3, C33, C330 and a C220 in my collection. They're all great cameras!
Yea! I almost bought the c220 but opted for the the bigger one instead
There are several different screens with the split prism focus aid, No. 2 has a 4 degree split image and No. 3 has a 6 degree which is much more "sensitive" to errors, get on if you can. As for exposure compensation, the pointer moving in the viewfinder will tell you how much compensation is needed with the standard lens, but you will need a different mask for other lenses. For it work accurately, remember to set the focal length of the lens on the dial on the left side of the body! Enjoy, I have a C330f and it is my favourite camera.
Good to know! Thanks
The camera is a gem. So go to a jewelry shop to find the right screw for the winder. It sometimes helps if you move your head to get rid of the black half of the split image center.
Yea it really is! Such a gem
Look on the chassis when it extents. It has an etched chart if you’re doing a portrait with a 105mm. Usually at 15 to twenty feet two stops down
Ahhh gotcha
I own a mamiya c22. Love it. There is a line on the viewing screen to help with parallax correction. There are numerous photographers on RUclips that help with using the Mamiya TLR. Good luck and fim forever!📸
Film forever!
Fantastic, great camera. Good suggestions for the screw, you could also pick up a dead one for spare parts?
For macro, you want a paramender - which allows the camera to move vertically on the tripod. You could try and guess as well. I picked one up recently, but only used it once for a landscape so far. I don’t think the parallax makes much difference for distances over 1m.
I never use split glass for focusing. Always the magnifying glass and I’ve never missed focus.
I have the 55, 80 f2.8 and 105 DS (this one has a self timer) lens. Never seen the 65 for sale. I haven’t bothered with the 135mm or higher lenses…. I think parallax would be more of an issue with these.
I carry mine in a backpack, never on my neck. No problems so far!
Yea I’ve heard about this device. Intrigued
A cut down paper clip is the easiest way to get back on the road again in the short term. I don't have a camera store or repair shop in my hometown anymore so I went to a hobby store that had trains and they had a plethora of small screws and nuts. They helped me find the one I needed and had several ideas how to maybe effect a better repair. In your case maybe a longer screw with a nut that used s small drop Loctite red to help lock in place. Another place that usually has small screws is a shop the has eyeglasses
Yup! I need to find a similar shop somewhere in London, thanks!
Bummer on the screw falling out but one you'll be able to solve. I'm pretty sure that Japan uses metric screws rather than imperial screws so worth bearing in mind.
They use metric but have their own thread design,
yea for sure!
In the early 80s, I had a C330 with all the lenses and accessories forit, including a prism finder. Lovely camera, but a bit on the heavy side. I sold the lot including a 4X5 outfit ( and Two Beattie screens ), and an ETRS outfit with full array of lenses and accessories for a song, in a moment of madness.
Wow you sold a lot! What do you have left
You can try a spring bar that they use for watch straps/bracelets. Go to a jewellery shop, they usually have a bunch of spares and it'll cost about 50p.
Yea good point! Gonna try
Great camera. I have the older C2 model with the winding nob and I love mine. Got mine for a great deal. As for fixing the winding crank on yours you might be able to fix it with one of those spring loaded pins for a wrist watch.
Yea that’s what I’ve heard!
The split prism works better when you’re lookin through the magnifier. So use that for critical focus and then snap it down and compose!
Ahh gotcha. Good advice!
Had to have a quick check to make sure mine wasn't stolen :)
A few quick thoughts...
1. I don't find the split image 'shading out' on mine even with slower lenses like the 135mm, but I nearly always use the magnifier so maybe that's why?
2. If the lateral reversal thing is doing your head in (it did mine!) when composing handheld, you can pick up an eye level prism pretty cheaply (I paid around £60 for mine) and..
3. There are a mark one and two versions of lenses for these. If you intend picking up another lens (say a 135 or 180mm for portraits) the later versions are dearer. But...the earlier versions are sharper!
Apparently when these came out originally the main markets were wedding and portrait photographers, and some were complaining that the lenses were TOO SHARP. So when they brought out the second version they actually toned down the sharpness a little. Great camera though with excellent lenses.
Haha I hope this one wasn’t stolen. Would be bad karma
Yea I need to center my eye more. Then it’ll be fine I think
@@ribsy Nah just kidding because mine is exactly the same camera, a c330 professional f with 80mm blue dot lens. The lenses are super sharp though on a par with Hasselblad for a fraction of the price IMO, especially the 1st versions. Good luck with it and hope you get the crank issue sorted.
When I studied at photography college in the early 70’s Mamiyas were the standard medium format cameras for student use. That they survived years of constant use by not very gentle operators is testimony to their build quality. Also, in such a highly competitive and ultra critical environment the lenses were very well regarded. BTW, if shooting macro on one you’ll need the accessory made by Mamiya to overcome parallax error, where after framing and focusing it lifts the camera so that the taking lens moves to where the viewing lens was.
yea mamiyas are great camera. i overcome parallax by estimating it. i don't want more accessories haha
@@ribsy You always have the parallax guide in your viewfinder anyway, so why estimate?
Great choice! I bought one in 2014 and loved it so much that I had bought a back-up and I am glad that I did because the prices now for them have increased quite a bit. I am also not a fan of the split focusing screens, both of my Mamiya C330's did not come with that type of screen so it can be changed. If you are into trying out double exposures, this is a perfect camera for that. Have fun with it!
Yea def gonna have a good time with this camera!
I use the Ford Pinto of the C series, the C22. I have the 105mm f/3.5 lens and the 250mm lens. It is a great camera, knob winding works well. I picked up a reflex viewfinder at a flea market that is nice to have. Sadly mine does not have a cable release. So I can't really use B mode. Just the 1 second timer. I do like the C330 though. But I got mine for $50 so I can't complain.
Oh cool! Didn’t know about that one
You can replace the split viewing screen with a simple fresnel screen. They have a pistol grip that connects to the bottom shutter release (for sports photography using pop down frame in the top cover. I had one in the 60's. Great camera. Check with an optical or watch shop and see if they have a crew that might work. If you find a screw, use some Loctite (blue) to secure the screw.
Yea I’m def looking for a simple fresnel
I have the c220 and the c33. The former is of course lighter in terms of features, but also lighter in terms of weight. I checked, it is only 300g or so, but it surely feels like a kilo. This makes the c220 the camera of choice for me....I would like to have the parallax correction though. 🙂
To replace your screw: I think the best and only option you have is to buy a broken c330 and use it as a source of spares. I did that. It cost me less than £20.
yea good call!
The reason why you have to overexpose Macro photos is that because the light has to travel further in the lens, it gets spread out more, so the light is less concentrated. Like how a candle is very bright up close, but very dim far away. It’s the inverse-square law
Ahhh gotcha
You don't overexpose you correctly expose for the bellows extension you have.
You got awesome camera. I have much older mamiyaflex c2. It's basically the same thing as C330 but looks much more vintage. I still can use all those lenses that were made later for C330 and get best shots.
Yea I’m loving this one!
The split image focusing aid is very sensitive to eye alignment. Make sure you have your eye centered and it will work better.
Yea gonna have to try that. I don’t think I’ve been keeping centered
Yeah - Cylops never has this problem!
You don't "over expose" when you use the bellows extension, you correctly expose taking into account the light lost due to that extension.
i know, thats roughly what i said right after i said 'overexpose'
I didn't even know the split image focusing screen was a thing. That's pretty dope!
Oh yea it is! Not my favorite tho
Nice!
The halfmoon focusing screen requires time to learn, I have yet to properly learn focusing with my rolleicord III with a better focusing screen!
With my yashica mat 124g I find it bright and nice and when I get more practice I can get more confident with getting my photos in focus!
Yea def! The yashica is really nice
At least in my C33, the bellows extension factor to adjust your exposure when close focusing is in the viewfinder (there's a a a little scale with 1.5x, 2x, 2.5x, etc). It even adjusts based on which lens you have selected, which is awesome! Still got to deal with parallax, so super close ups are still tricky.
Yea for sure. I’ll be messing with that a bit
You're quite lucky to have one with a split image screen, they're not that common.There are two types of screen with split image, the smaller one is useless. I had problems focusing with plain screen but found the split screen (one with larger centre) easier. Also have a screen with just micro-prisms in centre, might be a good compromise between the other two for you.
Yea I def want to experiment with screens!
True to find a high-end watchmaker or watch repair person. They might have a screw that's similar
Yes good call!
I just looked at a C33 and C330 yesterday. The 33 is $350 with a prism finder and the 330 is $450 with waist level finder. Can’t decide
both are great options!
Ribsy , just bought one for £125 ! Good working con, cleaned bellow, glass etc , loaded with film …. Can’t wait to get out with it, pictures are supposed to be so detail and amazing. My prism is just a clear circle in the center not like yours ? You can buy standard replacement new focus prisms for them on eBay
Wow you got a much cheaper price than I did 😅
@@ribsy I told the seller …. It was his dads for 20 yrs in the loft , it would need full service , gamble if it worked etc , to be fair I spent 4 hrs going over , dismantling and cleaning it , my model is just the c330 profe, yours is the f ? What’s the difference? Love the shows
Hell yeah dude! I think the C330 is so cool! I just found a great deal on a TLR of my own👀
It really is very cool!
Ribsy you can buy various viewfinder screens, there’s a choice of various ones. Think the Mamiya C330 and the RB/RZ are more studio based so I think that’s why they can be heavy, more used to being on a tripod.
Yea for sure! I don’t mind the weight but it was def something of a change
@@ribsy me too I got to use the C330 and C220 and I got a C330 a couple of years ago- got to use mine!
I thought about getting one of these a while back, until I realised how big they are!! Lovely camera though. And as for the split prism, they need your eye to be in a really specific place to see both halves. Using the magnifier should help as it’ll centre your eye 👍
Yea I think I need to center the eye. That’s def the key
I inherited my father’s C33 plus all his lenses (he had all but one of the focal lengths made for this camera - Unfortunately they all need CLAs 😭). One issue on mine that might be a common problem is that if the back isn’t pressed closed hard enough it may not have pressed a special button that engages with the winding mechanism to stop the winder at each frame. It took me a while to figure out why the winder wouldn’t always stop and I could wind through a whole roll without shooting a frame. Anyway, it’s a great camera. I’m looking forward to seeing your shots from it.
Hmm mine doesn’t have that issue fortunately. So far so good! Other than the handle falling off
It most likely is a JIS screw (Japan Industrial Standard - compare it with DIN or UNC)
The C330 is indeed a wonderful camera, I find it quite light to be honest. Maybe because I have a good neoprene strap and that I also carry around a RB67 quite often 😆
Good call! That’s specific enough so I can google it
I'd love a c330 or c220 (smaller lighter) someday, seem rad! I think there is a little indicator on the bellows helping you figure out how much compensation you need for extension factor so I hear anyway.
Off the top of my head I can think of one other tlr with Interchangeable lenses and that's the uncommon rather expensive Konica Omegaflex m which is also the only 6 x 7 tlr I know of.
Hope you can find a pin or screw for that winder!
Yea! I’ll be messing with bellows soon. Excited to out that close focus to use
I have one too... As for macro... On my focusing screen there numbers for exposure compensation... And when you pull out the bellows there's a little metal indicator that moves over the exposure compensation marks... So it's easy to compensate... It works... I've used it once to photograph a dragonfly and printed 20x20 cm... It looks scary...
Yea that’s what I’ve seen. Gotta mess with it more
I found I proffered the c220 just because it has more manual interaction, nothing on it is automatic like this one.
I know right. I hated it so I got a Rolleiflex instead
yea i would have been ok with either!
Nice video, I got a C33 (65/80/180) as well as a Rolleiflex and they're both excellent machines. I love the fact that both are mechanical and can be serviced potentially forever, even be quick fixed with a paperclip :). The Mami is kind of a truck compared to the more elegantl Rollei, also my Rolleiflex is quite ancient and I feel it needs to be taken care of more- the C33 can go offroad...
oh yea they both are def excellent!
A toothpick broken in just the tips its a quick fix, but also i tried my luck in a sunglass shop, a watch shop, and they had a solution, or even in an old electronic repair shop if you can find one, they usually have all types os small screws for it. Good luck with it
For sure! All good points
Perhaps you could get the mini screw-drivers and use the shafts. A pack of them have different sized shafts (and strong) and they are cheap. Just cut them to the right size
I’m pretty sure there’s a bellows extension compensation chart in Langford (my copy is at work so can’t be 100 positive as I write this).
Yea I have to check that out. Soon enough
The camera has a compensation needle built in the viewfinder, which makes it easier.
We used to use one for weddings back in the 80s and few other photographers used them to one had the prism finder from a Kiev on his as they were cheap
So very cool!
The "M" setting is for the old style Bulb Flash, and the "X" is for electronic Flash.
yup
Check out the 105mm lens. It's a great short tele and would step up your portrait game. (not that you can't use wide lenses with portraits....)
I prefer the wider angle for portraits. 105 would be a bit limiting
@@ribsy Fair enough. Worth a try to get compression in the shot. ;)
What a wonderful camera! Congrats! 👏
For the macro stuff: I am wondering how you might handle the parallax correction? For the exposure I found a diy tool on a website that is used to calculate the exposure correction in large format photography. The website is unfortunately in German but the Google translator might help. Will send you an Insta DM because I can't post links here. (RUclips would delete my comment automatically.)
For the split circle. I have used this kind of focus screen a lot with my Exakta varex and Praktica. The idea is that, if there is a line, it's divided and set apart when it's out of focus. The more it gets in focus the closer the two parts get. When it's completely aligned and can be seen just as a single line it's in focus. Hope this fuzzy explanation is clear enough. (I am not a native speaker.)
Can't wait to see more of your pictures with this great camera.
You can use a mamiya paramender on a tripod. (You could also guess, there is a thread above discussing this). It shifts the camera up to put the take lens in the position of the view lens when you are set up.
yea i will have to mess with that a bit
with macro on this system, you Also have to account for paralax in the framing of the shot, two lenses, so the "cones" of each get smaller, and hence further away from each other, so need to compensate ( why universal style viewfinders on Leica 'M' and Linhof Technika LF cameras tilt the finder with focus knob!).
Yup! I will explore that soon
put ground glass at film plane, and use black cloth like sinar and compose image throug the picture taking lens, then measure the distance in tripod base and camera holdind base flange, make a wooden bloc of that sie, rie camera and set it directly to that block, so this way u can use use it like slr 120 camera.
Interesting!
I've had terrible luck getting screws for old Japanese cameras. A lot of them use old Japanese industry sizes which were oddball ones like 0.7mm and 2.3mm for example, which is really hard to come across for new screws. I ended up drilling the hole out and tapping new threads in a more conventional size for a missing screw on one of my TLRs. Such a bummer to have to pull out the big guns over something like a missing screw, but sometimes that's the way it is :(
Ahh yes. I hope I have better luck!
I have a Yashica 12 that I had CLA'd by Mark Hamma. Always wanted to try street photography in NY since I'm NJ, but the current situations I wouldn't feel safe since I don't know the area (where to go and where not to). Does B&H have a repair department where you may be able to get a screw?
Perhaps! I’m back in London tho
I have a c330 but doesn’t have the split screen focusing which I also hate, had a look on eBay and you can get replacement screen (non split screen) for about £40
Yea for sure! That’s what I’ll prob do
I have the Yashica mat 124g and the reason is that I don't like bellows in cameras!! However the mamiya glass is very nice!!
Fair enough! Bellows can be a problem
@@ribsy But a big advantage in terms of close focussing
good video, with that screw problem, maybe see a watch maker, they could turn one up for you, also when you get a replacement, add a drop, ie on a sewing needle, of "loctite" to the thread, to stop it coming loose again, NOT the permanent one (different grades for diferent purposes), just a general purpose one, which you can take apart later on!!
Yes good call! I was curious about that
Try taking it to a watch repairer. They might have a little spring loaded watch strap pin that will fit.
Yea good point!
The c330 is like the camera version of you lol. Interested in seeing some shots using the 250. I've been eyeing that lens for a bit. I really like long focal length, landscape shots on square format.
Lol that’s an interesting comment
@@ribsy "..bulky yet super capable." haha
If you can get the 105mm 3.5. Mine came with it and I love it for portraits. Such a beautiful lens.
Yea def seems beautiful. But I like the wider angle!
I have several of these beasts from the 220 through to the 330 Pro and I love them all. As you likely know by now screens are interchangeable if you can find one you like better. Also using the built in magnifying loop usually helps. At my age it’s usually my eyeballs that are faulty but if required I can always blame it on the screen! Lastly from your look on the video it seems like you have enough muscle to carry one of these around. Have fun with it.
haha i think i am just barely strong enough for it
Im really enjoying your videos bro, but a little critique, the audio is jumping to extremes sometimes, makes my speakers vibrate like hell rofl. Cheers man
Lol my b. I still can’t get audio correct
I have the Mamiya Flex which also has the interchangeable lenses too :-) Awesome camera :-) You have to compensate when shooting close!!.... Look it up before you start taking close up shots. Also....... You do know that there is a magnifying glass there in the viewing hood?
Yea def! Gonna study that
My c330 winder has a pin through it not a screw. I just think you need a pin size that is an interference fit.
Ahhh ok. Good point!
Hey! Awesome video, try old local camera shop. I have the Olympus Flex, and the Minolta Autocord, love them both, very inexpensive.
Yea I almost bought an autocord. One day!
I just bought a Mamiya C220 plus 55mm, 80 mm, 135 mm and 250 mm lenses
at the biggest photoshop of Europe. The body and lenses had their CLA.
The shutter of the 55 does not fire. The rest of the lenses have rotten apertures.
What to do ......?
Sounds like you bought a dud. Get your money back
Maybe a roll pin as a method of last resort? It would mess up the threading
Yea gonna do something temporary for now
As regard to focusing I got myself a replacement split rangefinder screen on eBay. Good luck.
Yea that’s what I wanna do too!
@@ribsy good luck. Whenever you are visiting San Francisco please let me know. We can both shoot with a C330. Mine: ruclips.net/video/tD2FbOlOqj0/видео.html
A short term MacGyver would be a safety pin.
Replacing that screw depends on your willingnes to hussle and your intended budget - the nominal cost of that screw measured in cents, or single digit dollars, at best.
Finding the right one, aye, there's the rub.
Taking it to a watch repair shop or camera repair shop of your choice might cost you lots more.
If you own a caliper and know a thing or two about threads, you can figure out the size/ diameter of that thing, and if it's a metric or inch thread.
Knowing that, you can order a fitting screw online for a few cents.
Yea that’s what I’m thinking!
Is it actually a screw and not just a pin? I find it hard to believe it's not just a pin, in which case I think you should be able to just figure out the gauge and get little piece of wire or something to slip in there to hold it in. You can probably also just find small pins that may be appropriate, I bet somewhere someone has info on what the size is.
I think you might be right, I’m terrible with terminology
i have one with the 180mm and the 80mm... my problem is sometime the lens shutter does not cock soo you can shoot a roll or two and everything will be underexposed :) im trying to get into the habit of checking everything is in operation before i shoot. also if you shoot b&w we have a dark room in oldstreet come down for a review man would be really cool!
Ah that’s a shame! Hope you can fix that
@@ribsy it happens when you don't wind correctly! Just make sure your shutter works before you load... Can do this by shooting blanks on multi exposure. Like I said mate I don't know where you based in London but were over in oldstreet... SAIM, Shoreditch academy of image making, we've got a dark room with several enlargers and scanners. Come for a visit some time dude!
Still it is one of my all time favorite camera.
I can see why!
Hey man, love your channel. Did you ever find the screw you need?
Thanks! Nope - never found it / stopped looking. Just used a thin wire instead. Works great
Try to find a hardware store, or a fastener supply store. Another thing to try is camera repair people that work with tlrs.
Yea def! That’s my next step
You could search for some good, old school clock-smith to help you with your winding knob problem; I'm sure he could find some fix for it...
yea i think so!
I have a C330 Professional and the 80/2.8, the only problem I have right now is that the leatherette is pulling off the body. And it’s heavy. 😅 I can look at my screw, if you want… 😸
It’s def a tank of a camera!
@@ribsy absolutely a tank. A nice tank, but still… a tank. 😸
Sucks about the screw haha. Looks like a dope camera though.
Yea def a dope camera!
You could try a small split pin .
Yea def! Although I’ve secured a screw 😀
Never been this early for a video. I reckon you could get a watch screw to fix that.
haha you were prob #1 😊
Split pin should solve the handle issue
Hmm gonna research that
I have been there and done that. But I caught the screw before it was gone all the way. You just have to watch it.
Oh man. You are lucky!
I have this camera and I really like taking pictures with it. regards
Good to hear! I think I will too
Did you manage to get a new screw for it?
nope!
Maybe a link pin from a watch strap will fit?
Potentially! Need to find one
its my fav i love it... i want to master it and use it for everything
Agreed! I want to as well 😀
What no food!!🤣 great vid. 👍👍
Hahaha there will plenty
Buy a scrap lens on e.bay ,strip it down it will produce loads of Japanese sized screws
Haha that’s a very good point
Really very cool.Thanks sir,love from India
Def cool! Thanks for watching 😀
It's on multishot...?
nope. the flash setting was causing the issues