There is no order. The order will determine the motor direction, but you can change the motor direction in a later step. So I just wire them straight through for neat wiring.
@@JoshuaBardwell Thank you so much! I love your channel! I've been watching you almost daily since I'm new to fpv. In fact, i made my first vlog yesterday :) Thank you for doing this!
Great videos as always. If you use the flat side of the cutters to strip wires its easier and can you better judge how much insulation u are taking off.
Funny you mention that. I actually use the beveled side because it gives me perfect spacing. If I eyeball so that the edge of the bevel is lined up with the insulation, I end up with a perfect 1.5-ish mm of wire sticking out.
Help! I never learned to solder. My tinned pads look like blobs of dull grey mr whippy instead of filling the pad. Maybe I need more heat on the pad first or dodgy solder? Bonus question. Can I use hot glue on motor wires, xt60 wires, if i'm worried about quality of my joints?
If you're worried about the quality of your joints, stop building a quad and learn to solder better. It's tough advice but it's the best advice I can give you. You will waste so much money and time in this hobby if you don't know how to solder at least half-decent. An hour or two spent practicing (ideally under the eye of somebody who knows how to do it) will pay huge dividends. If you need to hot glue your joints because you don't trust them, the joints need to be re-done. Dull grey might mean you have over-heated the solder and burned out the flux. Adding flux from a flux pen can help with this. Paint the joint with flux before tinning it and before soldering the wire to the pad. Flux will also help with the "Mr. Whippy" whipped ice-cream peaks by helping the joint flow better. Make sure you are using rosin-core, leaded solder, not lead-free.
Is it bad that there’s dents and divots in on that big copper rectangle in the middle of the esc? How did that even happen JB? I’d appreciate a response as soon as you can possible provide one. Thx. Building RC racing kits to race on he surface and just everything about surface rc’s is very different from quads. (Ok. Not everything, but a lot.)
That is a thin copper tape that is used for shielding from interference. It's normal for it to have some small marks because it's so thin that any touch will deform it. It's not a problem.
And it’s at this point I discover no standoffs in the kit . So I used a piece of foam tape to align the ESC and cut and tinned the wires and the tabs on the ESC. And attached the power cord. Looks good but it seems like the whole unit gets really hot almost couldn’t touch it. Normal or did I fry it? Rotor riot is looking for stand-offs to send me but I’m dead in the water until I get them😕
The omitted standoffs were a mistake and they are being sent out. You should have also received a coupon for 10% off a future order, as an apology. Don't use foam tape the way you did... the unit needs at least a little air flow. It's probably not damaged though, as long as no smoke came out or anything. Sorry for the mess up on the standoffs.
@@JoshuaBardwell I understand that things happen but my experience with the hobby has been mostly bad. I am brand new to it so maybe my expectations are all wrong. I ordered a Hawk5 from Amain.com that came with a bad vtx, Amain told me I had to send it to Emax for evaluation which I did for an additional $20 in priority mail. Emax has had the quad since Nov 5 and has not communicated once with me on what's up. After lots of bitching, Amain is sending me a replacement as of Nov20. I've ordered tiny whoops from Banggood and well...Banggood doesn't communicate order status, just that it's "in Processs" Similarly, I ordered a Tinyhawk directly from EMAX and it's in the limbo of "processing". I have had similar issues with DJI with service. My personal opinion is that China builds cool toys but has no idea what service levels Americans have become used to. If you want cool Chinese toys, you have to wait for them. I have no idea when I will be getting the stand-offs and other stuff missing from my RotorRiot kit but since the stuff is coming from China, I guess its just going to be a wait and see. Aside from all the stuff I need to learn to simply play with these toys, I need the patience of a saint just to get working toys. BTW - I am addicted to your channel and thank you for all your expertise. I think your'e going to be my first patreon
I had a thought. You already did a video introducing someone to the sim (which is unfortunately NOT the best way for them to learn, as the best thing for THEM is the worst thing for a VIDEO, because they just fiddle around until they figure it out)..... you are already proficient with soldering and assembly, so when you do something it goes very quick and looks too easy. A beginner with no soldering or assembly experience will STRUGGLE because they will be clumsy.. Have you considered instructing someone on a first time build and filming THEM try it??? It will result in beginners being better able to learn what THEY are experiencing, like :is it hot? Are these wires too long? Is that good enough? Mine looks so different and crazy, etc ..... a newb on film would give all of the bad examples, AND show you where a bit more explanation might be handy.
Too high temps, i would never recomend 427 degrees celsius. U can damage the board by heat, solder splatters more easy and u can lift pads. Great video though...
Depends very much on the solder: is it lead based or not? Lead-free solder requires higher temps. But still, 427 C seems high, I solder lead-free at 375 C and traditional at 320. I use 400 or in extreme cases 425 for things like de-soldering some ancient, really cruddy piece. Of course, there are many variables: if the iron/station is a bit lacking in effect it will be slow to recover when it comes in contact with the pad and a higher temp will help avoiding it dropping to low before recovering. The tip used makes a huge difference and of course the pad /wire/component dimensions. And of course, different solders behave differently as well. What I reacted to was that you seemed to use pretty coarse solder, personally I prefer as thin solder as I can get away with since it gives more control. But sure, if that high temp works, why not. People should understand though that at those temps you really can’t afford to linger with the iron in contact with the pad - even more important if soldering an actual component to a PCB than a wire.
Because if I dumped them all at once it would spam your YT page. And because I'm going to Rampage for 5 days and I need content to fill the gap. And also I'm not posting them one by one... I'm posting them two by two.
I'VE UPDATED THE BUILD. bit.ly/2ZG6skz BUILD THIS ONE INSTEAD.
Folks, is there any wire ordering when soldering the 3 wires to the pads on the board? Or can they be randomly soldered to the pads?
There is no order. The order will determine the motor direction, but you can change the motor direction in a later step. So I just wire them straight through for neat wiring.
@@JoshuaBardwell Thank you so much! I love your channel! I've been watching you almost daily since I'm new to fpv. In fact, i made my first vlog yesterday :) Thank you for doing this!
Great videos as always. If you use the flat side of the cutters to strip wires its easier and can you better judge how much insulation u are taking off.
Funny you mention that. I actually use the beveled side because it gives me perfect spacing. If I eyeball so that the edge of the bevel is lined up with the insulation, I end up with a perfect 1.5-ish mm of wire sticking out.
Help! I never learned to solder. My tinned pads look like blobs of dull grey mr whippy instead of filling the pad. Maybe I need more heat on the pad first or dodgy solder? Bonus question. Can I use hot glue on motor wires, xt60 wires, if i'm worried about quality of my joints?
If you're worried about the quality of your joints, stop building a quad and learn to solder better. It's tough advice but it's the best advice I can give you. You will waste so much money and time in this hobby if you don't know how to solder at least half-decent. An hour or two spent practicing (ideally under the eye of somebody who knows how to do it) will pay huge dividends.
If you need to hot glue your joints because you don't trust them, the joints need to be re-done.
Dull grey might mean you have over-heated the solder and burned out the flux. Adding flux from a flux pen can help with this. Paint the joint with flux before tinning it and before soldering the wire to the pad. Flux will also help with the "Mr. Whippy" whipped ice-cream peaks by helping the joint flow better. Make sure you are using rosin-core, leaded solder, not lead-free.
I really was hoping u used your JB V2 flight stack...but still very helpful vid....thanks a millions.?
This has been in the works for months. My ESC was only just released so it wasn't available.
Is it bad that there’s dents and divots in on that big copper rectangle in the middle of the esc? How did that even happen JB? I’d appreciate a response as soon as you can possible provide one. Thx. Building RC racing kits to race on he surface and just everything about surface rc’s is very different from quads. (Ok. Not everything, but a lot.)
That is a thin copper tape that is used for shielding from interference. It's normal for it to have some small marks because it's so thin that any touch will deform it. It's not a problem.
Why not apply prop blades on top of the wire to protect the wire against prop impact?
It's a good idea, I just skip it a lot of the time. I dunno if it's the props I use or what but it's seldom an issue.
Any reason why you put the motor wires at the edges of the arm instead of down the center? Seems like there was a pattern there..
I try to put them on the far side from where the prop will strike if it gets bent down. I hope that will help minimize damage.
Makes total sense, of course... thanks!
And it’s at this point I discover no standoffs in the kit . So I used a piece of foam tape to align the ESC and cut and tinned the wires and the tabs on the ESC. And attached the power cord. Looks good but it seems like the whole unit gets really hot almost couldn’t touch it. Normal or did I fry it? Rotor riot is looking for stand-offs to send me but I’m dead in the water until I get them😕
The omitted standoffs were a mistake and they are being sent out. You should have also received a coupon for 10% off a future order, as an apology. Don't use foam tape the way you did... the unit needs at least a little air flow. It's probably not damaged though, as long as no smoke came out or anything.
Sorry for the mess up on the standoffs.
@@JoshuaBardwell I understand that things happen but my experience with the hobby has been mostly bad. I am brand new to it so maybe my expectations are all wrong. I ordered a Hawk5 from Amain.com that came with a bad vtx, Amain told me I had to send it to Emax for evaluation which I did for an additional $20 in priority mail. Emax has had the quad since Nov 5 and has not communicated once with me on what's up. After lots of bitching, Amain is sending me a replacement as of Nov20. I've ordered tiny whoops from Banggood and well...Banggood doesn't communicate order status, just that it's "in Processs" Similarly, I ordered a Tinyhawk directly from EMAX and it's in the limbo of "processing". I have had similar issues with DJI with service. My personal opinion is that China builds cool toys but has no idea what service levels Americans have become used to. If you want cool Chinese toys, you have to wait for them. I have no idea when I will be getting the stand-offs and other stuff missing from my RotorRiot kit but since the stuff is coming from China, I guess its just going to be a wait and see. Aside from all the stuff I need to learn to simply play with these toys, I need the patience of a saint just to get working toys. BTW - I am addicted to your channel and thank you for all your expertise. I think your'e going to be my first patreon
I see you don't use flux?
I use rosin core solder which has flux in it, and usually that's enough to get me good solder joints.
I had a thought. You already did a video introducing someone to the sim (which is unfortunately NOT the best way for them to learn, as the best thing for THEM is the worst thing for a VIDEO, because they just fiddle around until they figure it out)..... you are already proficient with soldering and assembly, so when you do something it goes very quick and looks too easy. A beginner with no soldering or assembly experience will STRUGGLE because they will be clumsy.. Have you considered instructing someone on a first time build and filming THEM try it??? It will result in beginners being better able to learn what THEY are experiencing, like :is it hot? Are these wires too long? Is that good enough? Mine looks so different and crazy, etc ..... a newb on film would give all of the bad examples, AND show you where a bit more explanation might be handy.
Here is a build where I did that.
ruclips.net/video/LsDgB-DnjGE/видео.html
Too high temps, i would never recomend 427 degrees celsius. U can damage the board by heat, solder splatters more easy and u can lift pads. Great video though...
Like I said in the video: some people feel this is too hot LOL. This is what gets the best results for me.
I’ve got the same iron and 800 has given me the best results as well. But it does seem odd that I have to turn the iron up so high.
Depends very much on the solder: is it lead based or not? Lead-free solder requires higher temps. But still, 427 C seems high, I solder lead-free at 375 C and traditional at 320. I use 400 or in extreme cases 425 for things like de-soldering some ancient, really cruddy piece.
Of course, there are many variables: if the iron/station is a bit lacking in effect it will be slow to recover when it comes in contact with the pad and a higher temp will help avoiding it dropping to low before recovering. The tip used makes a huge difference and of course the pad /wire/component dimensions. And of course, different solders behave differently as well. What I reacted to was that you seemed to use pretty coarse solder, personally I prefer as thin solder as I can get away with since it gives more control.
But sure, if that high temp works, why not. People should understand though that at those temps you really can’t afford to linger with the iron in contact with the pad - even more important if soldering an actual component to a PCB than a wire.
why are u posting them one by one
Because if I dumped them all at once it would spam your YT page. And because I'm going to Rampage for 5 days and I need content to fill the gap. And also I'm not posting them one by one... I'm posting them two by two.
Plus, if you want to see just one subject, you don't have to search a 60-minute video to get where you want to be.