Wait, what? This VTX runs on 5v? 😮 Anyway, great work, JB! And, well... I'm going to travel today and I'm probably going to spend a week offline. So... Great week, everybody! And see ya. 😊
It's on vbat. @mc's creations vbat gives battery voltage and the Atlatl V2 takes 7-28 V if you check the specs on it. I wouldn't recommend connecting this vtx to 5v.
What was the purpose of soldering the camera + and - together with the VTX + and - when it looks like the camera had its own + and - pads next to the video pad? Save space? Something else?
Josh i need vidio how too hook up flysky recievers to the board do you or are you gona make that vidio i have the nirvana have been using it and love it i bought an irange x4v2 modual for it but i cant get modual to work yet
Check the link in the video description to the Philipp Seidel wiring diagram for other receivers. But if this isn't the receiver video then that link isn't posted yet. Wait for the receiver video.
Question: The specs of the Atlatl say 7-28V. Why did you solder the power to the 3V? Or did I miss something? I usually solder the +/- of the VTx right to the battery leads, then solder the camera +/- to the VTx.
What is that B+ pad supposed to be for? It that the Buzz+ which rarely gets used for a buzzer? Also, why didn't you use the CAM pad to power the cam and vtx separately?
Is it a good idea to solder the wires to the FC above the ESC taking into account that the pads have holes and there is risk of solder going through and dripping into the ESC? I am sure you know what you are doing, but it could be risky for beginners. On other things, why did you choose 3v instead of, let’s say, 5v for powering the FPV system? Is there a particular reason? I always thought that using more Voltage was better, but being a beginner I don’t have arguments to support that.
I didn't power the system from 3v. I think there is confusion there. The silk screen looks like it says 3 but it's actually a B meaning battery voltage. Soldering over the ESC? If you are worried you will drip through then sure remove it. But if you are worried it will drip through, you should really pause the build and go practice soldering for a while.
Ah jeez. I know it's within ratings and the TX unit just pulls a trickle of current, but the thought of pushing ~26V from a battery through those squirrelly little hair's-breadth silicone wires just wigs me out a bit.
The voltage rating of the wire is determined by the breakdown voltage of the insulation. Silicone insulation such as used here is typically rated to 200 volts or higher. There's zero risk here pushing 26v through these wires. But ummm.... why do you think we're pushing 26v? The 4S lipo maxes out around 16.8 volts. There's nowhere on this quad that would push 26v.
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Could we solder the wires to the FC without it over top of the 4-1 ESC? Maybe use putty on the bench?
Yes you could do that if you don't feel confident.
Wait, what? This VTX runs on 5v? 😮
Anyway, great work, JB! And, well... I'm going to travel today and I'm probably going to spend a week offline. So... Great week, everybody! And see ya. 😊
Ummm I think I soldered it to vBat right? I would have to go back and check but I'm out at Rampage and have terrible signal.
It's on vbat. @mc's creations vbat gives battery voltage and the Atlatl V2 takes 7-28 V if you check the specs on it. I wouldn't recommend connecting this vtx to 5v.
What was the purpose of soldering the camera + and - together with the VTX + and - when it looks like the camera had its own + and - pads next to the video pad? Save space? Something else?
I prefer to power camera and vTX from vBat instead of having vTX from vBat and camera from 5v.
What do you use to clean up your soldering iron?
Brass sponge and wet sponge.
Josh i need vidio how too hook up flysky recievers to the board do you or are you gona make that vidio i have the nirvana have been using it and love it i bought an irange x4v2 modual for it but i cant get modual to work yet
Check the link in the video description to the Philipp Seidel wiring diagram for other receivers. But if this isn't the receiver video then that link isn't posted yet. Wait for the receiver video.
Question: The specs of the Atlatl say 7-28V. Why did you solder the power to the 3V? Or did I miss something? I usually solder the +/- of the VTx right to the battery leads, then solder the camera +/- to the VTx.
It's not 3v. That's a B but the silk screen is a little messed up.
What is that B+ pad supposed to be for? It that the Buzz+ which rarely gets used for a buzzer? Also, why didn't you use the CAM pad to power the cam and vtx separately?
The b+ here is the vbat -> battery voltage thus providing power direcltly from the battery
Is it a good idea to solder the wires to the FC above the ESC taking into account that the pads have holes and there is risk of solder going through and dripping into the ESC? I am sure you know what you are doing, but it could be risky for beginners. On other things, why did you choose 3v instead of, let’s say, 5v for powering the FPV system? Is there a particular reason? I always thought that using more Voltage was better, but being a beginner I don’t have arguments to support that.
I didn't power the system from 3v. I think there is confusion there. The silk screen looks like it says 3 but it's actually a B meaning battery voltage.
Soldering over the ESC? If you are worried you will drip through then sure remove it. But if you are worried it will drip through, you should really pause the build and go practice soldering for a while.
Hi JB. What are you using to clean the soldering tip? Sounds like a blower...
It's a wet sponge. You're hearing the water boil.
Shouldn't you solder the camera on the 5v instead of vbat?
Personally I think I get better results from vBat. I think some cameras don't do well on the 5v regulator. But you can solder it to 5v if you want.
Ah jeez. I know it's within ratings and the TX unit just pulls a trickle of current, but the thought of pushing ~26V from a battery through those squirrelly little hair's-breadth silicone wires just wigs me out a bit.
The voltage rating of the wire is determined by the breakdown voltage of the insulation. Silicone insulation such as used here is typically rated to 200 volts or higher. There's zero risk here pushing 26v through these wires.
But ummm.... why do you think we're pushing 26v? The 4S lipo maxes out around 16.8 volts. There's nowhere on this quad that would push 26v.