I will eventually finish this. I got covid right after filming this, and I have not been able to take off as much unpaid time as it will need to finish it in the years since. (I've definitely taken time off since then, just that time was set aside for making this thing and then I got sick)
Hello Matt, thanks for all vids...They are so informational and so interesting. Please continue this ovrhoul series....I miss it so much...Anyway keep up good vibration.
Without a lot of training and a transplant for my ham hands, I'll never be a repair tec. Your videos have increased my understanding of how the horn works and I'm not afraid of the mechanical workings.
I will eventually get to it, I got side tracked by COVID and then catching up at work and then building a boat. I will finish it though at some point 👍
Really enjoy the narrative, thank you. It is understandable how some non-sax-repair/enthusiasts may find this not as riveting as others, but I'm finding I have to resist binge-watching!
Use alum in heated water....it will dissolve out the ferrous metal rod and leave everything else. I was going through the same situation recently and tried that. Worked perfectly.
I bought my granddaughter a Conn Shooting Star on eBay $135, 1968 maybe. I might be doing this soon. I have only seen pictures but the neck has almost new cork and a leather end cover. That impressed me LOL, I have no idea what I'm doing. Yeah I can do this. Thank you so much for the demonstration. She plays Clarinet in the high school band you know and she's only 12, she's taking Sax this year. You make me feel Lucky LOL
Hi Matt, just wanted to say I’m really enjoying this series of overhaul videos, especially the stuck roller episode, you never normally get to see the thought process behind real problem solving on youtube… just the start and finish steps. This series is definitely giving me more confidence to have a go at simple servicing of my sax, and an appreciation of how much work a repair shop does, thanks 👍
Hi Matt. I really love this series and have found it super helpful. I felt the pain of that stuck roller, and could sympathize. Wondering if you ever made a part 6 or is this project on hold?
Currently on hold, I got COVID while making it and by the time I was back at work I was pretty far behind. I can only make it during a couple parts of the year when the weather is good enough I don't have to use my AC (which is loud on recordings) and I've got a bunch of other stuff going on as well. I will definitely finish it eventually, I want to play this horn! But this is a large project that requires probably 2 weeks of unpaid time to finish. Will get back to it at some point though!
Thank you for all you have posted so far. Just adding a comment as another person that would love to see this project finished. The series has been amazingly informative. Be well!
I worked in a shop primarily doing saxophone and clarinet disassembly (and lots of dents in brass instruments), and we used denatured alcohol solvent to clean rods and posts. I only remember having a lacquer issue one time with a super old saxophone which already had fragile lacquer. All it did was fog the lacquer, and it was repaired by passing a torch flame over the fog. That being said, we could barely even clean that horn due to the fragile state of the lacquer. Denatured alcohol solvent is much more commercially available at the moment.
Hey Matt, I've been watching your videos for years, amazing work. We all thank you for passing on so much knowledge. Will you continue this series? It's just great
FWIW - Instead of Naptha I use Shellite - also known as White Spirits. Shellite / White Spirits is very volitile, commonly used in hiking stoves etc - use in well ventilated areas with no possible ignition sources. IMO - does not dry "quite as cleanly" as Naptha. Matt - it has been interesting watching you clean all the hinge tubes as this is how I myself do this job. Overkill? not at all. I do however find it challenging at times to source quality pipe cleaners here in Australia.
Naptha is now banned in many states (California, Colorado, etc) so I think the closest you can get is the White Gas from Coleman or Shellite. I’m in the same boat!
@@apistosig4173 I have no idea about the reasoning. Whether it’s about green house gas emissions or meth dealers but it could be the latter. Xylene and a few others are banned too.
Not sure! It's a large time commitment, equivalent to taking maybe 2 weeks without pay, and I can only really do it at certain parts of the year. I had all that time set aside and then caught COVID right after filming this one, and that screwed everything up, chewing through the time I had saved up for the project and putting me behind at work in one fell swoop. I will get back to it at some point. Whenever I'm caught up on my work, caught up on my chores, my kids are taken care of at school or camp, and I'm not building a small boat on a tight timeline because I scheduled a vacation around it 😅
@@StohrerMusic Thanks! I was curious just because I love the thoroughness and unedited nature of it. Working on a sax repad right now and I love learning how another tech does it.
@@kevin.m213 Thanks! I do look forward to getting back to it. And then at the end I will have another alto to play! I have wanted a Pierret Super Artiste for a long time.
Hi Matt! I do software support for a living, and that sometimes involves billable hours. I try to take the same approach - I bill for how long it should have taken, instead of how long it did take. The honesty is good for you in the end.
Apparently the pipe cleaner company didn't change their name, I just got shipped a different brand last time? Not entirely sure because it was supposed to be the same thing, but after this video I went to buy more pipe cleaners and cotton swabs and they appear to still be around under the same old name.
Totally affirming the philosophical musings / ramblings about the job. Appreciated your comments about humility, ethics, and giving yourself grace. Have you read Matthew Crawford’s book *Shop Class as Soul Craft”? Thanks for doing these videos and sharing your commitment to your craft with the world.
Thank you! And yes, I did read that book when it first came out, I think it was given to me as a gift. I actually corresponded with the author for a little while after reading it; he was super nice to take the time to do so.
Love you videos, very informative! 👏🏼 Can I ask where to get your naptha? Love the push mechanism, but I can’t seem to find anything like it online. I live in Norway, so it might be difficult to get the same product if it’s not online. Hope you can help 🙏🏼
The philosophical stuff/things related to the business and your process with people, that's definitely all interesting too. And did you thin your ferrees lapping compound with oil (or something) or is that just what it looks like when you get down to the bottom? mine is not quite there yet, heh. Thanks for your videos
Yes. I'm doing it over time and uploading it as I finish it. It takes time, so I will end up taking probably a little bit over a week of unpaid "vacation" to complete it.
I wonder if soaking that part of the key with roller in Kroil penetrating oil for about a week would have broke it free? Of course that’s time and time is money. Even if it is your own horn. I will be interested to see how you make the new roller.
Hi Matt! Thankyou for sharing all of this, it is really interesting to watch! With your stuck roller, had you considered using Alum to dissolve the key rod out from the inside of the roller and the key? I don't know what material the keys are made from on this instrument, but that can be an option for ferrous materials stuck inside non-ferrous ones, like a broken off bolt or tap, or a stuck locating dowel, in an aluminium casting like an engine block. Thanks! Jäz
Matt, It seemed you heated only one end of the stuck roller rod. I wonder if heating both the slotted end and the threaded end, followed by more oil may have worked to loosen the frozen rod.
Hello Matt I hope you haven't given up on this project as I am really enjoying it and can't find the next episode I'm not sure why your beating yourself up about the roller as you well know some of these rollers are destined to die and there's nothing you can do about it and the only reason you spent so much time on it was BECAUSE you were filming it and perhaps trying to show that with perseverance where there's a will there's a way and sometimes it just isn't going to happen
It often works! Depends on the pads though- what waterproofing is used, what they've been through, etc. I don't think I would advise it as a matter of course, but if the alternative is replacing the pad because it's all grungy, then if it doesn't work worst case scenario you are replacing a pad that was probably going to need replaced anyways, if it didn't get clean.
@@StohrerMusic Matt, for what it's worth, I regularly use Naphtha to clean and get rid of stickiness in pads with no problems. However, somewhere here on YT, I saw a repair tech. use 75% alcohol sanitary/wet-wipes so I figured I'd try it. They work amazingly well! Especially with getting gunk and/or that usually lovely "green stuff" from the indented areas in the pads from the pad cup rims. Don't know if you've every tried them but if you're looking to try something new, I'd definitely recommend it. Be sure to get the 75% alcohol wipes as the others just don't (literally) cut it.
On horns built after say 1910, you often see pivot screws in place of a long rod on a single key, and/or for ease of access vs. installing hinge rod in tight location. Having them in place of a long rod is advantageous because they are more resistant to bending damage of the key and with less bearing surface there will be less friction.
Matt, try White Gas camp fuel by Coleman. Many solvents like Naptha have been banned in several states so I think that it’s the closest you can get nowadays.
@@JKtheSlacker Yup. That's where it's kept. Not sure if it makes a huge difference but the correct spelling is Naphtha, not Naptha. That extra H used to get me too. ;-)
That doesn't dissolve oil/grime/grease, and it also damages silver. Soap and water with a brush doesn't get where most of the grime is, either, which is inside the keys and posts.
I will eventually finish this. I got covid right after filming this, and I have not been able to take off as much unpaid time as it will need to finish it in the years since. (I've definitely taken time off since then, just that time was set aside for making this thing and then I got sick)
cool man I watched this 6 months ago and checked back to see whats up! God bless
Hey Matt, thanks for the update and hopefully you are doing fine. These videos are fantastic whilst i clean my own horn
thank you for this knowledge! im patiently awaiting the upload of the rest of this overhaul
Patiently waiting to hear this horn play!! I’m sure your absolutely swamped at shop
Super vidéo ! Can we expect a part 6 ? ^^
Really appreciate this series. I wish it had existed when I overhauled my Conn 6M some 12 years ago
Hello Matt, thanks for all vids...They are so informational and so interesting. Please continue this ovrhoul series....I miss it so much...Anyway keep up good vibration.
Without a lot of training and a transplant for my ham hands, I'll never be a repair tec. Your videos have increased my understanding of how the horn works and I'm not afraid of the mechanical workings.
This overhaul has been so helpful, would u please be able to upload the rest of it
I will eventually get to it, I got side tracked by COVID and then catching up at work and then building a boat. I will finish it though at some point 👍
Really enjoy the narrative, thank you. It is understandable how some non-sax-repair/enthusiasts may find this not as riveting as others, but I'm finding I have to resist binge-watching!
Hahah, I'm not a sax repairist, but I still find this riveting! :) I love to see how things work, come apart and go back together.
Use alum in heated water....it will dissolve out the ferrous metal rod and leave everything else. I was going through the same situation recently and tried that. Worked perfectly.
Waiting on that part 6 so bad, this is fun to watch
Love the philosophical talking! Makes me feel i'm not alone with my thoughts😉👍
I’m really enjoying your videos…. Keep it going…we are watching.
I bought my granddaughter a Conn Shooting Star on eBay $135, 1968 maybe. I might be doing this soon. I have only seen pictures but the neck has almost new cork and a leather end cover. That impressed me LOL, I have no idea what I'm doing. Yeah I can do this. Thank you so much for the demonstration. She plays Clarinet in the high school band you know and she's only 12, she's taking Sax this year.
You make me feel Lucky LOL
Your speed and efficiency are impressive. The signs of long practise and expertise.
Especially with the video playing at 2X the speed!
Hi Matt, just wanted to say I’m really enjoying this series of overhaul videos, especially the stuck roller episode, you never normally get to see the thought process behind real problem solving on youtube… just the start and finish steps. This series is definitely giving me more confidence to have a go at simple servicing of my sax, and an appreciation of how much work a repair shop does, thanks 👍
Hi Matt. I really love this series and have found it super helpful. I felt the pain of that stuck roller, and could sympathize. Wondering if you ever made a part 6 or is this project on hold?
Currently on hold, I got COVID while making it and by the time I was back at work I was pretty far behind. I can only make it during a couple parts of the year when the weather is good enough I don't have to use my AC (which is loud on recordings) and I've got a bunch of other stuff going on as well. I will definitely finish it eventually, I want to play this horn! But this is a large project that requires probably 2 weeks of unpaid time to finish. Will get back to it at some point though!
Thank you for all you have posted so far. Just adding a comment as another person that would love to see this project finished. The series has been amazingly informative. Be well!
I worked in a shop primarily doing saxophone and clarinet disassembly (and lots of dents in brass instruments), and we used denatured alcohol solvent to clean rods and posts. I only remember having a lacquer issue one time with a super old saxophone which already had fragile lacquer. All it did was fog the lacquer, and it was repaired by passing a torch flame over the fog. That being said, we could barely even clean that horn due to the fragile state of the lacquer. Denatured alcohol solvent is much more commercially available at the moment.
So interesting to follow this overhaul. 👍 Thanks Matt. 👏
Hey Matt, I've been watching your videos for years, amazing work. We all thank you for passing on so much knowledge. Will you continue this series? It's just great
Interesting to watch even though I gave up saxophone a couple of years ago. Post the rest of the overhaul.
FWIW - Instead of Naptha I use Shellite - also known as White Spirits. Shellite / White Spirits is very volitile, commonly used in hiking stoves etc - use in well ventilated areas with no possible ignition sources. IMO - does not dry "quite as cleanly" as Naptha. Matt - it has been interesting watching you clean all the hinge tubes as this is how I myself do this job. Overkill? not at all. I do however find it challenging at times to source quality pipe cleaners here in Australia.
Naptha is now banned in many states (California, Colorado, etc) so I think the closest you can get is the White Gas from Coleman or Shellite. I’m in the same boat!
@@MrEVANwhat Now this is really interesting. I always considered Naptha a relatively clean solvent / fuel.
@@apistosig4173 I have no idea about the reasoning. Whether it’s about green house gas emissions or meth dealers but it could be the latter. Xylene and a few others are banned too.
Hopps Gun Bore Cleaner is a good dry cleaning fluid (perchloroethylene) (chlorine reacted with propane and distillated into fluid)
I enjoy the philosophical thoughts. I say do what's going to work best for you with these, especially with the repetitive parts.
Hi Matt, loving this series. When's the next part coming??
Not sure! It's a large time commitment, equivalent to taking maybe 2 weeks without pay, and I can only really do it at certain parts of the year. I had all that time set aside and then caught COVID right after filming this one, and that screwed everything up, chewing through the time I had saved up for the project and putting me behind at work in one fell swoop. I will get back to it at some point. Whenever I'm caught up on my work, caught up on my chores, my kids are taken care of at school or camp, and I'm not building a small boat on a tight timeline because I scheduled a vacation around it 😅
@@StohrerMusic Thanks! I was curious just because I love the thoroughness and unedited nature of it. Working on a sax repad right now and I love learning how another tech does it.
@@kevin.m213 Thanks! I do look forward to getting back to it. And then at the end I will have another alto to play! I have wanted a Pierret Super Artiste for a long time.
Hi Matt! I do software support for a living, and that sometimes involves billable hours. I try to take the same approach - I bill for how long it should have taken, instead of how long it did take. The honesty is good for you in the end.
I looked for a continued video of this sax but couldn't find anything past Part 5 . I was really wanting to follow it to the complete end .
Apparently the pipe cleaner company didn't change their name, I just got shipped a different brand last time? Not entirely sure because it was supposed to be the same thing, but after this video I went to buy more pipe cleaners and cotton swabs and they appear to still be around under the same old name.
Yep, just got sent some tapered ones- BJ right on the front. The taper is useful for some things, but doesn't work so well for hinge tubes.
You mentioned Ronsonol lighter fluid in the video; I’ve used that for cleaning out key tubes and it works well.
Totally affirming the philosophical musings / ramblings about the job. Appreciated your comments about humility, ethics, and giving yourself grace. Have you read Matthew Crawford’s book *Shop Class as Soul Craft”? Thanks for doing these videos and sharing your commitment to your craft with the world.
Thank you! And yes, I did read that book when it first came out, I think it was given to me as a gift. I actually corresponded with the author for a little while after reading it; he was super nice to take the time to do so.
I was getting into that, did you do the rest of this overhaul series?
Love you videos, very informative! 👏🏼 Can I ask where to get your naptha? Love the push mechanism, but I can’t seem to find anything like it online. I live in Norway, so it might be difficult to get the same product if it’s not online.
Hope you can help 🙏🏼
The philosophical stuff/things related to the business and your process with people, that's definitely all interesting too. And did you thin your ferrees lapping compound with oil (or something) or is that just what it looks like when you get down to the bottom? mine is not quite there yet, heh. Thanks for your videos
I see all of those parts, and I think “how do you know where everything goes?”. I guess it comes from experience.
Interesting video.Will there a part 6...7..?
Yes. I'm doing it over time and uploading it as I finish it. It takes time, so I will end up taking probably a little bit over a week of unpaid "vacation" to complete it.
I wonder if soaking that part of the key with roller in Kroil penetrating oil for about a week would have broke it free? Of course that’s time and time is money. Even if it is your own horn. I will be interested to see how you make the new roller.
Hi Matt!
Thankyou for sharing all of this, it is really interesting to watch!
With your stuck roller, had you considered using Alum to dissolve the key rod out from the inside of the roller and the key? I don't know what material the keys are made from on this instrument, but that can be an option for ferrous materials stuck inside non-ferrous ones, like a broken off bolt or tap, or a stuck locating dowel, in an aluminium casting like an engine block.
Thanks!
Jäz
Matt, It seemed you heated only one end of the stuck roller rod. I wonder if heating both the slotted end and the threaded end, followed by more oil may have worked to loosen the frozen rod.
Would ultrasonic treatment help loosening stuck rusted parts?
Hello Matt I hope you haven't given up on this project as I am really enjoying it and can't find the next episode I'm not sure why your beating yourself up about the roller as you well know some of these rollers are destined to die and there's nothing you can do about it and the only reason you spent so much time on it was BECAUSE you were filming it and perhaps trying to show that with perseverance where there's a will there's a way and sometimes it just isn't going to happen
What do you do if you brake the threaded portion of a rod inside a post … what would you suggest on getting it out ?
Where’s the rest of this series 😭
Where's the rest?
is that isopropyl for the solution?
I’ve heard of using naphtha or lighter fluid to clean pads. What do you think about that?
It often works! Depends on the pads though- what waterproofing is used, what they've been through, etc. I don't think I would advise it as a matter of course, but if the alternative is replacing the pad because it's all grungy, then if it doesn't work worst case scenario you are replacing a pad that was probably going to need replaced anyways, if it didn't get clean.
@@StohrerMusic Matt, for what it's worth, I regularly use Naphtha to clean and get rid of stickiness in pads with no problems. However, somewhere here on YT, I saw a repair tech. use 75% alcohol sanitary/wet-wipes so I figured I'd try it. They work amazingly well! Especially with getting gunk and/or that usually lovely "green stuff" from the indented areas in the pads from the pad cup rims. Don't know if you've every tried them but if you're looking to try something new, I'd definitely recommend it. Be sure to get the 75% alcohol wipes as the others just don't (literally) cut it.
Why do some keys have hinge rods and some have pivot screws? I thought that it might be related to the length, but that does not seem to be true.
On horns built after say 1910, you often see pivot screws in place of a long rod on a single key, and/or for ease of access vs. installing hinge rod in tight location. Having them in place of a long rod is advantageous because they are more resistant to bending damage of the key and with less bearing surface there will be less friction.
When is the next lesson in the series?
After everyone in my family recovers from COVID!
@@StohrerMusic oh man that is rough. Hope they all get better soon.
Where do you buy naptha? Cannot be purchased at home depot or loews any more. I have been using rosonal for now.
They still have it at hardware stores near me, as well auto parts places, and online.
Matt, try White Gas camp fuel by Coleman. Many solvents like Naptha have been banned in several states so I think that it’s the closest you can get nowadays.
My local HD and other of the same type of stores have it in abundance. I'd continue looking.
Be sure to look in with the paint thinners. I know Menards has it.
@@JKtheSlacker Yup. That's where it's kept. Not sure if it makes a huge difference but the correct spelling is Naphtha, not Naptha. That extra H used to get me too. ;-)
I can not find part 6 please help
Hasn't been made yet
@@StohrerMusic bummer I have a1917/18 c melody I'm needing to overhaul. Leaning so much from your videos
Just curious..Why not use rubbing alcohol?
watching the whole video before asking questions helps...
This seems way too time consuming. Why not use a tub of heavily diluted muriatic acid, then soap and water and an air hose to dry?
That doesn't dissolve oil/grime/grease, and it also damages silver. Soap and water with a brush doesn't get where most of the grime is, either, which is inside the keys and posts.