Thanks for all the torque specs! It's the hardest and most important part of DIY. I just picked up the last of my parts to do a timing job tomorrow on my 09 TFSI Passat. Camshaft angle is at 7.52deg and just had a single knock event last week. Timing angle frequently above 30deg...I've cut it close!
Wow, thank you so much for watching. Its my biggest complaint and it really is the hardest part to find, torque specs. I try and put them in the description but at the very least as im doing the work. Wow, yeah Id say you are getting to a dangerous place. I had a 2000 passat that I knew the belt was bad and figured if I drove easy Id make it to work. Well I did not make it 5 mins from home.
Holy 💩 I thought my cam position was bad at -6.68 deg. Wil, I commented on your other video prior to seeing this one so disregard my question. It’s been answered. (Not sure I trust the ECS kits? Chinese quality)
@@neildantino4709 Nice one! I found my tensioner clip in the 10th spot with no more room to adjust :) Good thing it was the new style, and hope yours is too! I also found my cam bridge oil screen blown out, and stuck inside the oil galley. ECS kits I see everyone using, but don't know about them. I was scared to go aftermarket and went the fullproof more expensive path of dealer for the chain/tensioner/guides and then bought covers/seals/etc online.
Another great video. Very thorough and helpful. Thinking about the cam bridge, what are your thoughts on replacing the large o-ring in the bridge that seals the intake cam advance magnet? If reusing the original bridge, should that o-ring be changed?
Well, It does not move, its really a fixed seal. But, if you have some millage on the car and the seal is old I would replace it. They do get brittle and will cause an oil leak outside of the front cover. Thanks for watching and the kind words.
Also, I would love to see you do a step by step video on how to correctly remove the valve cover without messing up the timing/rockers/cam shafts. The correct sealant (Anaerobic) to use and how and where to apply it. And finally put back the valve cover with correct torques and sequence. My car is 2012 A4 2.0L Quattro so be great if you can do same year as other years my understanding they use gaskets instead of sealant (Anaerobic). Much appreciated.
Thanks again for the comment, Unfortunately I do the videos on repair jobs I am already doing. So it's hard to narrow it down to a specific year and make. There is a very specific removal sequence to take the cam girdle off to get to the cams and the seal around it. Best I can do in a pinch is sugest watching this video ruclips.net/video/rySGAwGlspg/видео.html around the 9:35 time stamp I show the removal procedure as per Elsa Pro. The harder part is in recent years audi has switched from using the Anaerobic sealant to using silicone sealant. its a loctite brand 5970. This is usually a dealer only item. Around 38.20 I show how to apply it. Once again, Thanks for watching. I hope this helps.
The camshafts will lift because of chain tension and then wont be seated flat for re-install of the lid afterwards. You need to pin the tensioner to remove tension on the camshafts.
The tool (T1053/1) that is used to hold the pulley against the crank gear, uses lower cover bolt holes 1 & 4. Once the crank bolt is tight, the pulley holding tool is removed and the last two cover bolts 1 & 4 can be installed and tightened.
Ahh, That makes sense. Even at the dealer its hard to get the tool when you need it. Either someone else had it our it was broken. Thanks for watching.
Thank you! Very helpfull video, with all specs, tips & suggestions! Helped about tensioner spring position! Also that explanation why! Good job. U got my SUB and Like ;)
Hey. First of all, this is probably the best video so far that I have seen. And will be really usefull this weekend, when I will do the timing chain change on my friends A5 2013 Sportback 1.8, 170 hp, CJEB engine. And like you I do not have the counterhold tool for the crank pulley. I see and can tell that using powertools you can get it of . But what was your handy dandy way of counterholding the pulley when tightening the bolt to tourqe specs?
Hey, thanks so much for the kind words. Really means a lot to me. When I tighten the crank bolt to spec, i hold the flywheel with a large prybar. Usually, it takes two ppl, but I am able to get to the proper torque.
The pictures you see me use are from the factory service manual. It is online and only available from dealer techs. A lot of people do like the Bentley manuals but I'm not sure of a good place to get them. Thanks for watching.
Very interesting video. I wished I'd seen it before last Friday. That's when the dealership told me it was going to cost $4000 to fix. I thought i was just going in for my 85K maintenance. 😢 I chose to have them fix it... but I'm pissed off. They never mentioned anthing about it when I had the 75K maintenance done. They never told me about the faulty chain tensioner. They never told me this design flaw was part of a big class action lawsuit a few years ago. Audi knew the tensioner was bad. Do you think the dealership puts the same crappy chain tensioner back on? Do you know if owners can get compensated for their chain getting stretched? I have just 82K miles on the car. I'd love to get that $4K back.
Sorry to hear about that. Unfortunately Audi parts are not cheap and labor rates these days are so expensive. Depending on the year of the car it might not be covered in that class action. Audi was already updating the tensioners around the 2011 model year. You would have to do a vin search to confirm if you car is in that range. If so you can tell the service writer and bring it up to Audi corporate. Many times if you have a stretch issue it's usually caused by poor maintenance and not using the correct oil. The chain does not actually stretch, Its the ware from the plastic guides, and chain the give the slack to the chain. If it is at an Audi Dealer they will put on the most up to date revision of parts. Again sorry for the issue, but if you can keep me updated on what they say. I am curious to know how they handle it.
@willpoweredgarage969 I really appreciate the detailed response. I'm hoping to get the car back today or tomorrow, but I'm not expecting the dealership to volunteer too much. Based on your answer, I may be partially at fault. I was getting my car maintained according to plan... every 10K miles. My last scheduled visit was at about 72K miles... but it was three years ago. Due to COVID I've mostly been working from home, so I only put 10K on it in that time. They could say I effed up, and they'd be partially right. It's a 2013, and I believe the range was 2009 to 2013. I'm not sure I can get any compensation from the class action lawsuit, though... it sounds like I would've had to file for it by 2019. The dealership never told me about this issue three years ago. I think they should've told customers to plan for the repair BEFORE their engines blew apart. I don't think they were honest on this. Thanks again, and I will write back after this has been settled.
@willpoweredgarage969 I picked up the car yesterday. It still runs great... but it was doing that before I found out about the problem. I told the service manager at the dealership I was very disappointed with the lack of transparency from them and Audi. They knew there was a problem with the tensioner, but never bothered to tell me. Had I known this was coming, I would've traded it in by now. He understood my disappointment, but told me they'd checked the VIN number, and my car was NOT affected by the bad tensioner, or eligible for the class action lawsuit. I ad to pay $4100 plus tax. I have to take some of the blame, though. It was 3 years between my 75K and 85K scheduled maintenaces. I knew it was supposed to be every year or 10K miles, whichever came first... but I let it slide because I wasn't driving much; I've worked from home most of the past three years. It was an expensive lesson to learn. Best of luck with your channel. You added a subscriber.
My mechanic mentioned to change the components of the timing chain and not the actual timing chain itself. I have 125K on a 2013 a4 and thankfully, I haven't had any issues, but he recommended to replace the components of the timing chain. What are your thoughts? also, where do you recommend I purchase ?
No, no ,no. Absolutely make sure you replace the chain. Chain stretch is a real thing. Though it's not stretch like a rubber band. It "stretches" because it is wearing and that will put off your timing. A timing chain kit for a 2.0 can be had for much less than having to do the job twice. I promise you that. With that said you can check in a scan tool if the chain is stretched and how far to even need to be replaced. And if the chain is not making any noise either I would leave it alone.
Great, great insights and whilst not doing the job myself, like to learn. Your video makes me want to have a go! Having received two quotations so far, £1200.00 incl. balance shaft chain/£1500.00 no bsc but a new cover the other does not, what are your thoughts? The oil tensioner was a good shout also. ;) How many hours would you quote for this job?
Thanks for watching and the comment. This repair normally takes me about 4hrs to do. Thats with cleaning all the gasket surfaces and covers to reuse. I don't replace the balance shafts unless there is a reason too. ( oil starvation, or other damage) . In the states I use two main mail order places to get OE parts at good prices ECStuning and FCPeuro. If willing to attempt the repair yourself check them out. At least they are good for part numbers. Good luck! Cheers!
Hey will really good video on TFSi timing components, I have ‘13 A4 B8 CAEB motor with 72k mi and cam/crank adaptation is showing on VCDS at -7.0°. I know that people say at -4 it’s time to get the tensioner and chain done. But I pulled the inspection plug I’m in 9th notch and I noticed that my spring clip has two notches still behind it, I have never heard of the updated tensioner failing, but I have everything ready to do this , just waiting for a warm weekend.. anyway about the blue loctite did you put it on all bolts for the timing components (the guide 10mm tripsqu and the t30s for the tensioner)? Did you apply loctite to the threads on the balance shaft chain tensioner prior to torquing to 80 nm? And what about the cam bridge t30s? Any loctite on them? Same for the lower cover t30? Great tech tip on the pushing the spring to the end of the tensioner? I’ll make sure to do that..and what about cranking it over to build pressure, should I pull coil connectors and the HPFP solenoid? I also heard that the balance chain tensioner should be primed with oil before installing, any thoughts on how to do that? Great video
that was a mouthful. So, I put blue loctite on everything that is critical to the engine timing basically. Those are the last things you want to loosen up. At -7.0 I'm surprised it's not throwing a corilation fault. Also, audi says no more than 7 notches, I believe. stretched. have tensioner room, that chain is still stretched. I also pulled the coils to crank it a bit to get oil around before i fired it up. I also set basic settings for the throttle right away before starting. Thanks for watching. I hope this has helped and put you at ease to do it yourself. Good luck.
Sorry for the Delay, It has been a while since I made this video so I wanted to look back and see if I could tell where the parts came from. Well looking back from my files, I found that I purchased all the parts from the dealer. I do get a nice discount through them and I always recommend factory parts when it comes to major engine components. The alternative I use often is ECS tuning, and FCPEuro. They both sell factory parts, often in kits for much cheaper than I get, Downside is shipping time and cost. I hope this helps, and Thank you so much for watching and I hope it really did help. Will
No, not at all. My only hesitation would be to replace factory parts with inferior aftermarket. I'd recommend @ecstuning or @fcpeuro for factory parts at much better prices than the dealer.
Yes, extremely overpriced. Even factory parts, hardware included would be less than $1,000.00 . Its not a difficult job, just need a few special tools you can get cheap on the web. Good luck, and thanks for watching.
This one was at about 150 i think. Honestly i don't really remember. There is no set time the chain should be replaced. They are "lifetime " . But there are ways to check with a scan tool and unless there is a chain rattle it's fine. Good oil maintenance is very important on turbo cars.
The oil pump chain is rarely replaced. Does not even come in many timing chain kits. I do however usually replace the oil pump tensioner. The plastic becomes very brittle.
@@willpoweredgarage969 got this job to do next 😔😁 never done a timing chain before so going to be fun keep get p0016 come up I clear code keeps coming back engine sounds fine so have replace both sensor and code still comes back
Hello there. Unfortunately I use the Dealer software called Elsa Pro. Unfortunately it is not sharable and requires employment and passwords to get access to . Bentley manuals are the closest to the factory though. Many people use them! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for all the torque specs! It's the hardest and most important part of DIY. I just picked up the last of my parts to do a timing job tomorrow on my 09 TFSI Passat. Camshaft angle is at 7.52deg and just had a single knock event last week. Timing angle frequently above 30deg...I've cut it close!
Wow, thank you so much for watching. Its my biggest complaint and it really is the hardest part to find, torque specs. I try and put them in the description but at the very least as im doing the work. Wow, yeah Id say you are getting to a dangerous place. I had a 2000 passat that I knew the belt was bad and figured if I drove easy Id make it to work. Well I did not make it 5 mins from home.
Holy 💩 I thought my cam position was bad at -6.68 deg.
Wil, I commented on your other video prior to seeing this one so disregard my question. It’s been answered. (Not sure I trust the ECS kits? Chinese quality)
@@neildantino4709 Nice one! I found my tensioner clip in the 10th spot with no more room to adjust :) Good thing it was the new style, and hope yours is too! I also found my cam bridge oil screen blown out, and stuck inside the oil galley.
ECS kits I see everyone using, but don't know about them. I was scared to go aftermarket and went the fullproof more expensive path of dealer for the chain/tensioner/guides and then bought covers/seals/etc online.
Thank you , you have to most detailed video on youtube, excellent job!
Thank you so much for the positive comment. Thanks for watching!!
its called a cam bridge, and they are called camshaft phaser, great video, very informative........ thank you.
Thank you for watching!
Another great video. Very thorough and helpful. Thinking about the cam bridge, what are your thoughts on replacing the large o-ring in the bridge that seals the intake cam advance magnet?
If reusing the original bridge, should that o-ring be changed?
Well, It does not move, its really a fixed seal. But, if you have some millage on the car and the seal is old I would replace it. They do get brittle and will cause an oil leak outside of the front cover. Thanks for watching and the kind words.
Also, I would love to see you do a step by step video on how to correctly remove the valve cover without messing up the timing/rockers/cam shafts. The correct sealant (Anaerobic) to use and how and where to apply it. And finally put back the valve cover with correct torques and sequence. My car is 2012 A4 2.0L Quattro so be great if you can do same year as other years my understanding they use gaskets instead of sealant (Anaerobic). Much appreciated.
Thanks again for the comment, Unfortunately I do the videos on repair jobs I am already doing. So it's hard to narrow it down to a specific year and make. There is a very specific removal sequence to take the cam girdle off to get to the cams and the seal around it. Best I can do in a pinch is sugest watching this video ruclips.net/video/rySGAwGlspg/видео.html around the 9:35 time stamp I show the removal procedure as per Elsa Pro. The harder part is in recent years audi has switched from using the Anaerobic sealant to using silicone sealant. its a loctite brand 5970. This is usually a dealer only item. Around 38.20 I show how to apply it. Once again, Thanks for watching. I hope this helps.
The camshafts will lift because of chain tension and then wont be seated flat for re-install of the lid afterwards. You need to pin the tensioner to remove tension on the camshafts.
How much does this cost?
@@kennethchoyce8186one million dollars
The tool (T1053/1) that is used to hold the pulley against the crank gear, uses lower cover bolt holes 1 & 4. Once the crank bolt is tight, the pulley holding tool is removed and the last two cover bolts 1 & 4 can be installed and tightened.
Ahh, That makes sense. Even at the dealer its hard to get the tool when you need it. Either someone else had it our it was broken. Thanks for watching.
Great presentation! Thank you; 😊
Thanks for the comment, I hope it helped you out. Thanks for watching.
Thank you! Very helpfull video, with all specs, tips & suggestions!
Helped about tensioner spring position! Also that explanation why! Good job. U got my SUB and Like ;)
Thank you so much!! Thanks for watching , the kind words, and the sub!
Hey. First of all, this is probably the best video so far that I have seen. And will be really usefull this weekend, when I will do the timing chain change on my friends A5 2013 Sportback 1.8, 170 hp, CJEB engine. And like you I do not have the counterhold tool for the crank pulley. I see and can tell that using powertools you can get it of . But what was your handy dandy way of counterholding the pulley when tightening the bolt to tourqe specs?
Hey, thanks so much for the kind words. Really means a lot to me. When I tighten the crank bolt to spec, i hold the flywheel with a large prybar. Usually, it takes two ppl, but I am able to get to the proper torque.
Where can I download or print off the diagrams you used in the video? Also, is there a good place to get a good Audi A5 repair manual? Thanks Randal
The pictures you see me use are from the factory service manual. It is online and only available from dealer techs. A lot of people do like the Bentley manuals but I'm not sure of a good place to get them. Thanks for watching.
Very interesting video. I wished I'd seen it before last Friday. That's when the dealership told me it was going to cost $4000 to fix. I thought i was just going in for my 85K maintenance. 😢
I chose to have them fix it... but I'm pissed off. They never mentioned anthing about it when I had the 75K maintenance done. They never told me about the faulty chain tensioner. They never told me this design flaw was part of a big class action lawsuit a few years ago. Audi knew the tensioner was bad.
Do you think the dealership puts the same crappy chain tensioner back on? Do you know if owners can get compensated for their chain getting stretched? I have just 82K miles on the car. I'd love to get that $4K back.
Sorry to hear about that. Unfortunately Audi parts are not cheap and labor rates these days are so expensive. Depending on the year of the car it might not be covered in that class action. Audi was already updating the tensioners around the 2011 model year. You would have to do a vin search to confirm if you car is in that range. If so you can tell the service writer and bring it up to Audi corporate.
Many times if you have a stretch issue it's usually caused by poor maintenance and not using the correct oil. The chain does not actually stretch, Its the ware from the plastic guides, and chain the give the slack to the chain. If it is at an Audi Dealer they will put on the most up to date revision of parts.
Again sorry for the issue, but if you can keep me updated on what they say. I am curious to know how they handle it.
@willpoweredgarage969 I really appreciate the detailed response.
I'm hoping to get the car back today or tomorrow, but I'm not expecting the dealership to volunteer too much.
Based on your answer, I may be partially at fault. I was getting my car maintained according to plan... every 10K miles. My last scheduled visit was at about 72K miles... but it was three years ago. Due to COVID I've mostly been working from home, so I only put 10K on it in that time. They could say I effed up, and they'd be partially right.
It's a 2013, and I believe the range was 2009 to 2013. I'm not sure I can get any compensation from the class action lawsuit, though... it sounds like I would've had to file for it by 2019.
The dealership never told me about this issue three years ago. I think they should've told customers to plan for the repair BEFORE their engines blew apart. I don't think they were honest on this.
Thanks again, and I will write back after this has been settled.
@willpoweredgarage969 I picked up the car yesterday. It still runs great... but it was doing that before I found out about the problem. I told the service manager at the dealership I was very disappointed with the lack of transparency from them and Audi. They knew there was a problem with the tensioner, but never bothered to tell me. Had I known this was coming, I would've traded it in by now.
He understood my disappointment, but told me they'd checked the VIN number, and my car was NOT affected by the bad tensioner, or eligible for the class action lawsuit. I ad to pay $4100 plus tax.
I have to take some of the blame, though. It was 3 years between my 75K and 85K scheduled maintenaces. I knew it was supposed to be every year or 10K miles, whichever came first... but I let it slide because I wasn't driving much; I've worked from home most of the past three years. It was an expensive lesson to learn.
Best of luck with your channel. You added a subscriber.
Whats the programme to find all the diagram and torque specs ? cheers for the vid
Its Elsa Pro, Unfortunately it is only available to dealer technicians. closets you can get is the expensive Bentley manuals.
Thanks for the response.@@willpoweredgarage969
My mechanic mentioned to change the components of the timing chain and not the actual timing chain itself. I have 125K on a 2013 a4 and thankfully, I haven't had any issues, but he recommended to replace the components of the timing chain. What are your thoughts? also, where do you recommend I purchase ?
No, no ,no. Absolutely make sure you replace the chain. Chain stretch is a real thing. Though it's not stretch like a rubber band. It "stretches" because it is wearing and that will put off your timing. A timing chain kit for a 2.0 can be had for much less than having to do the job twice. I promise you that. With that said you can check in a scan tool if the chain is stretched and how far to even need to be replaced. And if the chain is not making any noise either I would leave it alone.
New timing chain is a must.
you gonna end up with 2:1.00142432 gear ratio with the non interger component climbing fast.... 😂
Great, great insights and whilst not doing the job myself, like to learn. Your video makes me want to have a go!
Having received two quotations so far, £1200.00 incl. balance shaft chain/£1500.00 no bsc but a new cover the other does not, what are your thoughts? The oil tensioner was a good shout also. ;) How many hours would you quote for this job?
Thanks for watching and the comment. This repair normally takes me about 4hrs to do. Thats with cleaning all the gasket surfaces and covers to reuse. I don't replace the balance shafts unless there is a reason too. ( oil starvation, or other damage) . In the states I use two main mail order places to get OE parts at good prices ECStuning and FCPeuro. If willing to attempt the repair yourself check them out. At least they are good for part numbers. Good luck! Cheers!
Bolts 1 and 4 is for the special counter hold tool. There the last two bolts you install if you use that tools. That’s why the weird way to install
Yes that is correct.
Hey will really good video on TFSi timing components, I have ‘13 A4 B8 CAEB motor with 72k mi and cam/crank adaptation is showing on VCDS at -7.0°. I know that people say at -4 it’s time to get the tensioner and chain done. But I pulled the inspection plug I’m in 9th notch and I noticed that my spring clip has two notches still behind it, I have never heard of the updated tensioner failing, but I have everything ready to do this , just waiting for a warm weekend.. anyway about the blue loctite did you put it on all bolts for the timing components (the guide 10mm tripsqu and the t30s for the tensioner)? Did you apply loctite to the threads on the balance shaft chain tensioner prior to torquing to 80 nm? And what about the cam bridge t30s? Any loctite on them? Same for the lower cover t30? Great tech tip on the pushing the spring to the end of the tensioner? I’ll make sure to do that..and what about cranking it over to build pressure, should I pull coil connectors and the HPFP solenoid? I also heard that the balance chain tensioner should be primed with oil before installing, any thoughts on how to do that? Great video
that was a mouthful. So, I put blue loctite on everything that is critical to the engine timing basically. Those are the last things you want to loosen up. At -7.0 I'm surprised it's not throwing a corilation fault. Also, audi says no more than 7 notches, I believe. stretched. have tensioner room, that chain is still stretched. I also pulled the coils to crank it a bit to get oil around before i fired it up. I also set basic settings for the throttle right away before starting. Thanks for watching. I hope this has helped and put you at ease to do it yourself. Good luck.
@@willpoweredgarage969 What do you do in basic settings for the throttle body before first startup?
Awesome video, extremely informative. Is it possible to list the timing chain kit # and where you purchased from ?
Sorry for the Delay, It has been a while since I made this video so I wanted to look back and see if I could tell where the parts came from. Well looking back from my files, I found that I purchased all the parts from the dealer. I do get a nice discount through them and I always recommend factory parts when it comes to major engine components. The alternative I use often is ECS tuning, and FCPEuro. They both sell factory parts, often in kits for much cheaper than I get, Downside is shipping time and cost. I hope this helps, and Thank you so much for watching and I hope it really did help.
Will
Where can I find the repair ebook you used? For step by step.
Also, great job! This video is the best. Thank you!
You need to be a dealer. Tech to get access . Thanks for watching.
Will I have any issues if I do the timing before I have any problems?
No, not at all. My only hesitation would be to replace factory parts with inferior aftermarket. I'd recommend @ecstuning or @fcpeuro for factory parts at much better prices than the dealer.
My A5 had the same but got lucky didn't damage head or valves but enging didn't stop but had to rev the nuts off it to get it to move
Well, revving the nuts off it certainly sounds like an interesting solution! Glad it worked out for you and your A5!
Hey Men, great video .what program do you have?
I use the dealer program. Unfortunately it can only be used by dealer technicians.
Thanks, do you think $4,200 at the dealer overpriced?
Yes, extremely overpriced. Even factory parts, hardware included would be less than $1,000.00 . Its not a difficult job, just need a few special tools you can get cheap on the web. Good luck, and thanks for watching.
What program are you using to follow instructions?
It's the dealer factory service manual. Only available to service technicians.
how many miles does this Audi have when the timing chain got replaced?
This one was at about 150 i think. Honestly i don't really remember. There is no set time the chain should be replaced. They are "lifetime " . But there are ways to check with a scan tool and unless there is a chain rattle it's fine. Good oil maintenance is very important on turbo cars.
What is the program name for the timing diagram
It's a dealer only program called Elsa Pro. Have to work at a dealer to use it.
where r u located? my q5 2012 needs new tensioner & timing chain
Im in NY.
good!! what about the oil pump chain ??
The oil pump chain is rarely replaced. Does not even come in many timing chain kits. I do however usually replace the oil pump tensioner. The plastic becomes very brittle.
How much does this job cost
Thanks bro
Thanks for watching!
Hi where can I get the diagrams from you're using
What Diagrams are you looking for? I get them from Elsa pro. Its Vw and audis factory repair system.
The ones with all the timing marks ect I will have a look see if I can find them the ones you got in the video looks good
@@willpoweredgarage969 got this job to do next 😔😁 never done a timing chain before so going to be fun keep get p0016 come up I clear code keeps coming back engine sounds fine so have replace both sensor and code still comes back
@@MrSuarezmichael how did it go?
any shop can check through OBD how much the timing chain has stretched.
what repair manual did you use? can you share thru email?
Hello there. Unfortunately I use the Dealer software called Elsa Pro. Unfortunately it is not sharable and requires employment and passwords to get access to . Bentley manuals are the closest to the factory though. Many people use them! Thanks for watching.
Update how is it running?
Runs perfect.
Did you have to replace. The cylinder head?
@ Not at all
Cam phaser
This guy for the first 10 minutes of the video: 💁
Thanks for watching!
❤🎉😊
Thanks for watching!