Will you have persuaded me to stick with the a7riv & iii models that I have, was tempted with the a7rv but can’t justify the price jump. Very informative. Thanks
Thanks Will .. this method you use is kind of what I use also .. depending on as you say what size you need that file for to create a print . If my files end up large I always save as a TIFF and smaller ones that have been cropped like my wildlife files I save to jpeg. Like you I don’t use sharpening much at all . I too want the photo to look more of a painting than a photo . I often get people asking me is that a painting ? 😂😂. I took many years to gain the painting look , maybe by luck I have no idea but it works for me , I guess years of editing you learn to develop your own style and if one sees that repetitive pattern throughout your work then I guess you have done something correct . My web files my friend created his own action I use in photoshop as I don’t use Lightroom at all , this action has a selection of sizes you can save it into and also for vertical orientation images also . It adds a sharpening layer within the action with its own slider to set the opacity you want , also it gives you small adjustments in a layer for mid tones etc . It’s been a fantastic action but it’s purely for website files . Thanks again for sharing your knowledge . Always appreciated , stay well !
Hi Will, may I pls ask a few questions....about colour spaces, firstly, what is ideal for editing in Lightroom & Photoshop? & then exporting, I know sRGB is good for web but what about printing? What do you use? & one more, what do you have your colour profile set at on your actual computer screen that you use to edit on? Thankyou so much, I learn so much from you xx
I'm trying to prepare files for printing and pricing and have a lot to learn. This clarified part of the process well when you have your Raw file but what's the best thing to do in situations when I only have a Jpg and have lost the Raw file on a hard drive that failed so can't save it as Tiff from Raw for any size of printing and now have to deal with the print size limits of a Jpg? How do I know what sizes can be printed from it? The requirement is 300 dpi from a lab I plan to work with. One such Jpg file I have goes to width 12.267 in and height 8.187 in when I change resolution to 300 and untick the resample box in Photoshop. That's small. Is that the maximum print size or can it be changed and how much? File size is 25.9M and dimensions 3680 x 2456 px.
Thanks. Hard to say at what size the file will be unusable. With the dimensions you have, I don’t think I’d print much larger than 18 inches wide. You’ll need to just do the print and then check the result though to see if you’re happy. Can’t imagine you’ll really go much higher than that though.
Bcs the color space that phones and almost every device out there use is sRGB, not everybody watch IG from a PC so the color that u see in your PC might be a little different when u see it in a phone.
@JustASimpleGamer The problem is how the sites convert from the larger gamut to RGB. From what I've seen, Instagram has the worse. Original photos side by side with Instagram on my PC are hugely different. Since it's going to be seen in sRGB, I'd prefer Photoshop do the conversion for me so I know how it will appear online.
Any general recommendations on sharpening for print (e.g., online service bureau) vs. for screen? I tend to use High Pass in Affinity Photo rather than USM (haven't graduated to AI sharpening yet) but that's all display-oriented. Plugins like Nik Sharpener Pro 3 really crank up the sharpening by default - deep fried and crispy onscreen. I've often heard to sharpen just about 'too much' for screen and it'll be about right for print. Of course that varies by image and printing tech. I don't have a photo printer so experimenting by ordering test prints of varying settings can be time-consuming and a bit expensive. Thanks.
Honestly Len, I don’t do any additional sharpening. I think it’s somewhat overrated and when you’re viewing a piece from a foot or more back, you’re not going to notice anyways. I’ve always loved oil painting and the work of the great artists, so having a photo look like a ‘photo’ isn’t something I want. I prefer a painterly look.
@@WilliamPatinoPhotography Yeah, I don't heavily sharpen in general (at least I hope I don't LOL), but at the same time I don't want prints to look mushy. I have series of test prints on order at NPL right now, so I'll see how those look and go from there. Thanks.
@@WilliamPatinoPhotography Apparently, it was as easy as dragging the side bar instead of using the mouse scroll. Scrolling would "jump" the page so fast it'd look like things weren't even there. Funny, really.
Thanks for this explanation!
Thanks so much - very helpful. Didn't really focus on there being a difference.
Thanks, Will great information simple but important!
Will you have persuaded me to stick with the a7riv & iii models that I have, was tempted with the a7rv but can’t justify the price jump. Very informative. Thanks
I do Short Edge 1080.
Very well explained. Thank you for sharing Will. 👍
Thanks a lot mate 🙏🏻
Thanks Will .. this method you use is kind of what I use also .. depending on as you say what size you need that file for to create a print . If my files end up large I always save as a TIFF and smaller ones that have been cropped like my wildlife files I save to jpeg. Like you I don’t use sharpening much at all . I too want the photo to look more of a painting than a photo . I often get people asking me is that a painting ? 😂😂. I took many years to gain the painting look , maybe by luck I have no idea but it works for me , I guess years of editing you learn to develop your own style and if one sees that repetitive pattern throughout your work then I guess you have done something correct . My web files my friend created his own action I use in photoshop as I don’t use Lightroom at all , this action has a selection of sizes you can save it into and also for vertical orientation images also . It adds a sharpening layer within the action with its own slider to set the opacity you want , also it gives you small adjustments in a layer for mid tones etc . It’s been a fantastic action but it’s purely for website files .
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge . Always appreciated , stay well !
I was just trying to work all that out yesterday, This made it much easier. Thank you.
Awesome, glad to have helped!
Hi Will, may I pls ask a few questions....about colour spaces, firstly, what is ideal for editing in Lightroom & Photoshop? & then exporting, I know sRGB is good for web but what about printing? What do you use?
& one more, what do you have your colour profile set at on your actual computer screen that you use to edit on?
Thankyou so much, I learn so much from you xx
I'm trying to prepare files for printing and pricing and have a lot to learn. This clarified part of the process well when you have your Raw file but what's the best thing to do in situations when I only have a Jpg and have lost the Raw file on a hard drive that failed so can't save it as Tiff from Raw for any size of printing and now have to deal with the print size limits of a Jpg? How do I know what sizes can be printed from it? The requirement is 300 dpi from a lab I plan to work with. One such Jpg file I have goes to width 12.267 in and height 8.187 in when I change resolution to 300 and untick the resample box in Photoshop. That's small. Is that the maximum print size or can it be changed and how much? File size is 25.9M and dimensions 3680 x 2456 px.
Thanks. Hard to say at what size the file will be unusable. With the dimensions you have, I don’t think I’d print much larger than 18 inches wide. You’ll need to just do the print and then check the result though to see if you’re happy. Can’t imagine you’ll really go much higher than that though.
thanks, man
Thank you 🙏🏻
I've found if I do not change to sRGB, the colors are dramatically different on the web, especially on Instagram.
Bcs the color space that phones and almost every device out there use is sRGB, not everybody watch IG from a PC so the color that u see in your PC might be a little different when u see it in a phone.
@JustASimpleGamer The problem is how the sites convert from the larger gamut to RGB. From what I've seen, Instagram has the worse. Original photos side by side with Instagram on my PC are hugely different. Since it's going to be seen in sRGB, I'd prefer Photoshop do the conversion for me so I know how it will appear online.
Any general recommendations on sharpening for print (e.g., online service bureau) vs. for screen? I tend to use High Pass in Affinity Photo rather than USM (haven't graduated to AI sharpening yet) but that's all display-oriented. Plugins like Nik Sharpener Pro 3 really crank up the sharpening by default - deep fried and crispy onscreen. I've often heard to sharpen just about 'too much' for screen and it'll be about right for print. Of course that varies by image and printing tech. I don't have a photo printer so experimenting by ordering test prints of varying settings can be time-consuming and a bit expensive. Thanks.
Honestly Len, I don’t do any additional sharpening. I think it’s somewhat overrated and when you’re viewing a piece from a foot or more back, you’re not going to notice anyways. I’ve always loved oil painting and the work of the great artists, so having a photo look like a ‘photo’ isn’t something I want. I prefer a painterly look.
@@WilliamPatinoPhotography Yeah, I don't heavily sharpen in general (at least I hope I don't LOL), but at the same time I don't want prints to look mushy. I have series of test prints on order at NPL right now, so I'll see how those look and go from there. Thanks.
@@lphilpot01 Sounds good! If you have good glass and shooting with an infinite DOF you should be fine :)
Strange, I don't have the option to resize in Lightroom? Guess I can do that in PS but still
Check there’s not a small arrow that needs to clicked to expand and reveal that section
@@WilliamPatinoPhotography Apparently, it was as easy as dragging the side bar instead of using the mouse scroll. Scrolling would "jump" the page so fast it'd look like things weren't even there. Funny, really.