Lots of useful info here. I can’t believe how many vids show soldered lugs - and flux/solder that are supposed to be used only with copper plumbing. I highly recommend a hydraulic crimper. I bought one on Amazon that effortlessly makes indestructible connections. Also highly recommended is a cable cutter. They are inexpensive and useful for home/shop wiring - the only tool for cutting Romex.
Flux and solder are absolutely used in wiring to tin wires outside of the insulation. The hard part is the solder is not suppose to go retract or suck under the insulation. During any Miniature/Microminiature (2M) Module Test and Repair programs will teach you to that in-depth level. I agree though that a hydraulic crimper is the best for the larger gauge crimps, but what he is using is great for the gauge wired used.
Great video, Thanks. You also can solder your connectors. I like to grind off the end lip on the copper lugs and have a little bit of wire showing on the end. Don't forget to slide the shrink tubing up the wire far away from the heat. Make sure the wire is clean and use plenty of flux. Apply heat at the end of the lug and let the solder suck itself in, then slip over the heat shrink.
The first cable is a disaster. Technically no you should not cut strands of wire like that when you're cutting the insulation, that is way too much pressure used to trim the insulation. The strands should lay naturally and not be twisted, although I lightly twist mine as well so the strands lay naturally. The wire should not protrude more than 1/16" (or width of a finger nail) past the end of an open connector on either side of the crimp end. At the end of the day if looks don't matter and it functions well, then I say screw it and go with it.
The first cable was done as an example of how you can do it if you dont have the right tools. That version is just fine. It will last and work, but it isnt the best option.
You Showed those bare copper end. I don't allow those in my shop.. Bare copper corrodes... I build a LOT of marine cables... I use the same stuff on Hot Rods...Marine grade ends are "Tinned "Copper and closed barrel. The thin wall work best. I see Sooooo many cars at car gatherings with those Damn $.99 ends on them and all the wires exposed... It's Garbage and Looks like Crap.
These are the same ends used by most OEMs. When installed properly and sealed with either heat shrink or quality electrical tape, they will be just fine for years. If you are wiring a boat, then sure, a marine grade terminal is warranted. Thanks for watching!
Lots of useful info here. I can’t believe how many vids show soldered lugs - and flux/solder that are supposed to be used only with copper plumbing. I highly recommend a hydraulic crimper. I bought one on Amazon that effortlessly makes indestructible connections. Also highly recommended is a cable cutter. They are inexpensive and useful for home/shop wiring - the only tool for cutting Romex.
I agree completely. I like a hydaulic crimper too. I use cable cutter for wire and hose, it is
very useful. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Flux and solder are absolutely used in wiring to tin wires outside of the insulation. The hard part is the solder is not suppose to go retract or suck under the insulation. During any Miniature/Microminiature (2M) Module Test and Repair programs will teach you to that in-depth level. I agree though that a hydraulic crimper is the best for the larger gauge crimps, but what he is using is great for the gauge wired used.
Good Stuff... thank you!
Great video, Thanks. You also can solder your connectors. I like to grind off the end lip on the copper lugs and have a little bit of wire showing on the end. Don't forget to slide the shrink tubing up the wire far away from the heat. Make sure the wire is clean and use plenty of flux. Apply heat at the end of the lug and let the solder suck itself in, then slip over the heat shrink.
Thanks!
Video goes crazy🤯🥴🤩
You bet it do, my guy!
The first cable is a disaster. Technically no you should not cut strands of wire like that when you're cutting the insulation, that is way too much pressure used to trim the insulation. The strands should lay naturally and not be twisted, although I lightly twist mine as well so the strands lay naturally. The wire should not protrude more than 1/16" (or width of a finger nail) past the end of an open connector on either side of the crimp end. At the end of the day if looks don't matter and it functions well, then I say screw it and go with it.
The first cable was done as an example of how you can do it if you dont have the right tools. That version is just fine. It will last and work, but it isnt the best option.
The best option isn’t pure copper lugs. The best option is tinned pure copper lugs.
You Showed those bare copper end. I don't allow those in my shop.. Bare copper corrodes... I build a LOT of marine cables... I use the same stuff on Hot Rods...Marine grade ends are "Tinned "Copper and closed barrel. The thin wall work best. I see Sooooo many cars at car gatherings with those Damn $.99 ends on them and all the wires exposed... It's Garbage and Looks like Crap.
These are the same ends used by most OEMs. When installed properly and sealed with either heat shrink or quality electrical tape, they will be just fine for years.
If you are wiring a boat, then sure, a marine grade terminal is warranted.
Thanks for watching!