OMG!!! Found your channel while I was in the midst of my “gas bike phase” and found your content helpful and it got me considering an electric option. Fast forward a year and an accident on the gas bike later and I’m now a proud E-Bike rider…and loving the ability to ride on trails instead of sharing the roads with motorists. My biggest gripe was the short rages of the batteries and I’ve been looking for a trusted source with advice about these battery blenders…and GUESS WHO pops into my YT suggestions with a new video?!?! Creepy-good timing? Perhaps…but I’m thankful nonetheless 😊
I've been using this battery balancer device for a few months and noticed two benefits. 1. It allowed me to get a longer range than manually swapping one battery out for the spare during the ride. 2. Since both batteries output lower currents, it puts less strain on each which may increase battery life. Note: Both batteries must be at the same voltage level, the AH ratings can be different. Initially, when you start, the battery with the slightly highest voltage will supply all the current to the motor, when its voltage drops to the level of the second battery, they will both start sharing half the total current demand. Two connected batteries share the amount of current needed by the motor and keep the two batteries at the same voltage level as they start to decrease during the ride.
My biggest concern is volt matching. Some say the batteries must match volts…others say it doesn’t matter. The pro-match say that pairing a higher voltage battery with a lower voltage battery with cause the higher voltage one to discharge too quickly and lead to a dangerous situation…like explosions etc. That’s enough to make me wanna be very sure before moving forward. The E-Bike I have has an integrated battery that slides into the frame. The LED screen reads 52v output when fully charged. But, the description on Amazon says it’s a 48v 15Ah battery. So…now I find myself in a dilemma. What’s the true voltage rating on my battery and how critical is it to have the same voltage batteries with this battery coupling gadget?
@@gotchurebeacons-gaming902348v nominal battery has a full charge of 54.6v, 52v battery has a full charge of 58.8v. If you mixed the two, with two fully charged batteries the 52v would be around halfway discharged before the 48v even started contributing, and depending on the BMS of the 52v would go below safe voltages before the 48v was getting close to being discharged. Even if everything went smoothly you wouldn't be getting the benefit of these devices which is mainly the lower amperage draw from each battery, keeping them cooler and lasting longer, both for each ride and in lifespan.
Why does mine doesn't simultaneously discharge. What happens is it uses up one battery then switches to the other when the first one is drained. Both batteries start at same voltage. Any thoughts?
@gotchurebeacons-gaming9023 If you have a 48v battery, 48 volts is the 'nominal' voltage or middle of the range of voltages for that battery. When you charge a 48v battery, it actually charges to 54.6 volts, and when it is empty, it will be somewhere around 40-41 volts, and bike will stop working.
Glad to see more videos. On cheaper full suspension bikes, you might want a smaller battery in the front and the back. I have met people that have bikes like that.
Been using it for the past week. Really love it. I am sure using it this way is less taxing on both batteries which will probably make them both the last longer. I can go further now then my ass can handle and I have one of those big bike seats.Thanks again.
Hi, I pray that all is well. I have a SmarTravel Rocket E-Bike and am looking to add extra battery and max speed. Which products and videos should I go for? This will be my first time and am looking forward to learning the ropes of modding an ebike. Thanks and God bless you!
Is this thing waterproof Cramming them in where the controller is could cause a fire I prefer installing outside to disapate heat these things get warm
I have two batteries (52v and 48v) connected using those balancers. When i go at top speed for a certain period, the motor cuts out when i come to a stop. Im not sure the dual setup is the problem or just the motor. But i just bought this bike so i would guess its the dual battery
If you have both batteries for sure with 2 wire BMS's you can get versions of these with a charge cable that will charge both batteries at once. Regardless if it has the charge port or not you can't use these with regenerative braking, the same diodes that disallow the batteries to charge each other disallow any charge from the controller.
@@azney-playz9738 it's possible to do regen while using a parallel connection between two batteries, it's just much more potentially dangerous. The batteries have to be at the same voltage, like within millivolts, or the higher one will charge the lower one at as high as amperage as physically possible, if you're lucky it melts the wire before doing too much damage to the batteries. Also best with 2 wire BMS so that once they are connected together you can charge them together and keep them at the same voltage.
thanks for the hint, but... how much is the actual efficiency of the device? I guess well above 90% but just to know. Also, can it be used also to recharge both the battery with a single charger?
Can I safely use this with a 72a23ah triangle battery and combine it with a 48v20ah rack-type battery or are the different voltages a problem? I'm assuming the reason I'm paying $55 for this thing is because it can deal with the voltage differences or I'd just get a y-adapter for five bucks and combine them in parallel if a same-voltage requirement existed. Then again, I wanna be safe. I'd LOVE to combine these two things for more total amps so my controller or BMS or whatever it is stops cutting out for an hour and rendering my ebike useless when I put it under hard load. I have a 3000w hub motor and my 72a23ah triangle only puts out 1500w and when everything cuts-out I dunno if it's the BMS that did it or my controller but I'm thinking that if I combine these to batteries then I can, possibly, get 1500w from the triangle and another 1000w from the rack-mount one and that-a-way I can crank it up past the "eco" levels into the "standard" levels and not get this cut-out problem. Anyone advise me please?
In your situation, It will not work because 72V(84.0) and 48V(54.6) aren't close to each other in voltage. You can mix 48V(54.6) and 52V(58.8) because they are close to each other when fully charged. The whole point of the battery combiner is when both of them match in voltage, they discharge together until the cutoff voltage. So in other word, you need to get another 72V battery for it to work.
Cool. Do the batteries have to match, amp output, amp hours & voltage? I'd assume that voltage has to match but am curious about the other parameters (my batteries are all 52 volt but of varying output & capacity).
Just voltage for most cases (Bafang) only if you are using a high amp draw motor(50a+) would you need to high amp batteries. The ah rating shouldn’t matter as it just toggles between which battery has a higher voltage.
@JohnnyNerdOut My biggest concern is volt matching. Some say the batteries must match volts…others say it doesn’t matter. The pro-match say that pairing a higher voltage battery with a lower voltage battery with cause the higher voltage one to discharge too quickly and lead to a dangerous situation…like explosions etc. That’s enough to make me wanna be very sure before moving forward. The E-Bike I have has an integrated battery that slides into the frame. The LED screen reads 52v output when fully charged. But, the description on Amazon says it’s a 48v 15Ah battery. So…now I find myself in a dilemma. What’s the true voltage rating on my battery and how critical is it to have the same voltage batteries with this battery coupling gadget?
You have a 48v battery, batteries are sold at nominal voltage but peak will be higher as you see. It's normal and nothing to worry about. No one battery will not start discharging in an uncontrolled way unless it doesn't have a BMS. Both batteries should have a BMS the BMS limits the output current. As a rule never use a battery that doesn't have a BMS However you shouldn't use batteries of a different voltage as it defeats the purpose of this device. You should charge them both fully. A slight difference in voltage is ok
@@Alex-uh1mj Thank you for all this information, I’m a novice at this and don’t want to ruin what I have while trying to improve it. Not sure what BMS is, hopefully I’ll be able to find it’s meaning and confirm my battery has this. Thanks again
As best I can calculate, the most linking up two batteries will do is initially transfer at 1C, so there really shouldn't be any need for a "battery combiner". Sidenote: I've been equalizing batteries in parallel for a long time with no problems.
With those you can combine 2 batteries with different capacity and depending on which model you have you can use 2 batteries with different voltages like 48v and 52v together but not all combiners will do that.
I'm going to run 2 batteries on a bike with a 10amp battery so I went with the exact same 10 amphr spare to add on... to avoid a mis-match and I'm getting ready to order a Y connector do you think I need one of those gadgets???
@autojohn-pu1vf I wouldn't use a y connector, you could but you will need to make sure your both batteries are at same capacity and voltage when charging or discharging where as for the double battery combiner it doesn't matter if voltage is different, these work by using the high voltage first then when both voltages are the same then it uses both batteries together regardless of capacity and helps with eliminating the voltage dip when using high Amps with one battery
@autojohn-pu1vf doesn't matter if using these active combiners if one of the battery fully charged and the other is not but it is better to have them charged the same though because you have less voltage sag and seems to make both batteries run more efficient than say swapping in and out each battery.
If you use just a splitter you don’t want one battery having more of a draw than the other. Your dealing with two separate bms ‘s. If you had two identical battery packs bought at the same time and charged to the exact same voltage etc. you could probably get away with it. The point of buying a parallel connector is you can add an aux battery and not have to buy another one from the bike manufacturer. Saves a lot of $.
Hey Johnny this is so Awesome Bro, Question will this work for my application: I have a stock scooter (72V - 30AH - Dual 5K Watt Motors) I want to add a 15AH external battery in parallel for better range. Will this component work ? THANKS...(Russ)
Johnny could you please confirm that using a 52v with a 48v is possible with this device? But anything else with a bigger difference than 4v is too dangerous. I am understanding correctly?
It’s not that it’s dangerous, it just wouldn’t really be of any service once the voltages are too far apart. I could argue that ANY difference is not worth it.
@@Alex-uh1mjmore that batteries can start off at different voltages and violently try to charge the lower voltage bat from the higher as fast as physically possible, harming the battery and potentially melting the wires.
@@punkdigerati i know that. In this case i was going on the assumption he knew that and thought charging them to the same voltage and using a splitter was enough
Use a $5 splitter now and spend thousands of dollars later for when the bike eventually catches fire. A Y-splitter does not prevent backflow from the higher voltage pack to the lower. If one battery is more charged than the other, they will rapidly adjust to be at the same potential. That means the battery with the higher voltage will push current into the battery with the lower voltage. The lower voltage battery can be overcharged which can lead to a fire or reduced life cycles for the battery cells.
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OMG!!! Found your channel while I was in the midst of my “gas bike phase” and found your content helpful and it got me considering an electric option. Fast forward a year and an accident on the gas bike later and I’m now a proud E-Bike rider…and loving the ability to ride on trails instead of sharing the roads with motorists. My biggest gripe was the short rages of the batteries and I’ve been looking for a trusted source with advice about these battery blenders…and GUESS WHO pops into my YT suggestions with a new video?!?!
Creepy-good timing? Perhaps…but I’m thankful nonetheless 😊
I've been using this battery balancer device for a few months and noticed two benefits.
1. It allowed me to get a longer range than manually swapping one battery out for the spare during the ride.
2. Since both batteries output lower currents, it puts less strain on each which may increase battery life.
Note: Both batteries must be at the same voltage level, the AH ratings can be different. Initially, when you start, the battery with the slightly highest voltage will supply all the current to the motor, when its voltage drops to the level of the second battery, they will both start sharing half the total current demand.
Two connected batteries share the amount of current needed by the motor and keep the two batteries at the same voltage level as they start to decrease during the ride.
My biggest concern is volt matching. Some say the batteries must match volts…others say it doesn’t matter. The pro-match say that pairing a higher voltage battery with a lower voltage battery with cause the higher voltage one to discharge too quickly and lead to a dangerous situation…like explosions etc. That’s enough to make me wanna be very sure before moving forward.
The E-Bike I have has an integrated battery that slides into the frame. The LED screen reads 52v output when fully charged. But, the description on Amazon says it’s a 48v 15Ah battery. So…now I find myself in a dilemma. What’s the true voltage rating on my battery and how critical is it to have the same voltage batteries with this battery coupling gadget?
@@gotchurebeacons-gaming902348v nominal battery has a full charge of 54.6v, 52v battery has a full charge of 58.8v. If you mixed the two, with two fully charged batteries the 52v would be around halfway discharged before the 48v even started contributing, and depending on the BMS of the 52v would go below safe voltages before the 48v was getting close to being discharged. Even if everything went smoothly you wouldn't be getting the benefit of these devices which is mainly the lower amperage draw from each battery, keeping them cooler and lasting longer, both for each ride and in lifespan.
Why does mine doesn't simultaneously discharge. What happens is it uses up one battery then switches to the other when the first one is drained. Both batteries start at same voltage. Any thoughts?
@gotchurebeacons-gaming9023 If you have a 48v battery, 48 volts is the 'nominal' voltage or middle of the range of voltages for that battery. When you charge a 48v battery, it actually charges to 54.6 volts, and when it is empty, it will be somewhere around 40-41 volts, and bike will stop working.
If both batteries have each bms 50A current it will be output 100A?
Glad to see more videos. On cheaper full suspension bikes, you might want a smaller battery in the front and the back. I have met people that have bikes like that.
Been using it for the past week. Really love it. I am sure using it this way is less taxing on both batteries which will probably make them both the last longer. I can go further now then my ass can handle and I have one of those big bike seats.Thanks again.
WOULD YOU still recommend this ? im planning to do this with 2x 14ah bateries so i can run more powerful controller
Yes. Most definitely. You can go further. it has more power and most of all it's less taxing on the batteries. You'll love it.@@aski1529
Thank you for this info! Is it possible for me to hook a blender to 2 separate motors? Also, will you be stocking the peek gear for the bbshd?
Seems like a great option on a tandem since I suspect 1 battery would go really fast with all the extra weight of another person.
Buying one!
Could i use this to connect two 48v 20ah lithium batteries if my motor outputs 1800w?
If I'm adding a 48v 13h ah battery to my ebike with same outputs how many amps do I need ?
Hi, I pray that all is well.
I have a SmarTravel Rocket E-Bike and am looking to add extra battery and max speed. Which products and videos should I go for? This will be my first time and am looking forward to learning the ropes of modding an ebike.
Thanks and God bless you!
Why not buy a 3$ plug and parallel 2 batteries, is this really necessary or overkill?
Is this thing waterproof
Cramming them in where the controller is could cause a fire
I prefer installing outside to disapate heat these things get warm
I have two batteries (52v and 48v) connected using those balancers. When i go at top speed for a certain period, the motor cuts out when i come to a stop. Im not sure the dual setup is the problem or just the motor. But i just bought this bike so i would guess its the dual battery
If you have both batteries for sure with 2 wire BMS's you can get versions of these with a charge cable that will charge both batteries at once. Regardless if it has the charge port or not you can't use these with regenerative braking, the same diodes that disallow the batteries to charge each other disallow any charge from the controller.
both can not be used what about the y connector xt60?
@@azney-playz9738 it's possible to do regen while using a parallel connection between two batteries, it's just much more potentially dangerous. The batteries have to be at the same voltage, like within millivolts, or the higher one will charge the lower one at as high as amperage as physically possible, if you're lucky it melts the wire before doing too much damage to the batteries. Also best with 2 wire BMS so that once they are connected together you can charge them together and keep them at the same voltage.
thanks for the hint, but... how much is the actual efficiency of the device? I guess well above 90% but just to know. Also, can it be used also to recharge both the battery with a single charger?
Only discharge. Idk about efficiency l. But I’d assume over 95% 🤞not enough to notice at least
Can I safely use this with a 72a23ah triangle battery and combine it with a 48v20ah rack-type battery or are the different voltages a problem? I'm assuming the reason I'm paying $55 for this thing is because it can deal with the voltage differences or I'd just get a y-adapter for five bucks and combine them in parallel if a same-voltage requirement existed. Then again, I wanna be safe. I'd LOVE to combine these two things for more total amps so my controller or BMS or whatever it is stops cutting out for an hour and rendering my ebike useless when I put it under hard load. I have a 3000w hub motor and my 72a23ah triangle only puts out 1500w and when everything cuts-out I dunno if it's the BMS that did it or my controller but I'm thinking that if I combine these to batteries then I can, possibly, get 1500w from the triangle and another 1000w from the rack-mount one and that-a-way I can crank it up past the "eco" levels into the "standard" levels and not get this cut-out problem. Anyone advise me please?
In your situation, It will not work because 72V(84.0) and 48V(54.6) aren't close to each other in voltage. You can mix 48V(54.6) and 52V(58.8) because they are close to each other when fully charged. The whole point of the battery combiner is when both of them match in voltage, they discharge together until the cutoff voltage. So in other word, you need to get another 72V battery for it to work.
@@ForcingShots well then why not just get a parallel y-splitter for five bucks? if this thing does not justify voltages then wtf does it do???
Could u demonstrate connecting extra battery to a dyu AF1.…?
Cool.
Do the batteries have to match, amp output, amp hours & voltage? I'd assume that voltage has to match but am curious about the other parameters (my batteries are all 52 volt but of varying output & capacity).
Just voltage for most cases (Bafang) only if you are using a high amp draw motor(50a+) would you need to high amp batteries. The ah rating shouldn’t matter as it just toggles between which battery has a higher voltage.
@@JohnnyNerdOut Oh well! Looks like I'm still gonna switch batteries:( Still a cool option, for most.
@@JohnnyNerdOutis it true a 48v and 52v can be used together due to true voltage output overlap?
so basically it is the same as blender but cheaper?
@JohnnyNerdOut My biggest concern is volt matching. Some say the batteries must match volts…others say it doesn’t matter. The pro-match say that pairing a higher voltage battery with a lower voltage battery with cause the higher voltage one to discharge too quickly and lead to a dangerous situation…like explosions etc. That’s enough to make me wanna be very sure before moving forward.
The E-Bike I have has an integrated battery that slides into the frame. The LED screen reads 52v output when fully charged. But, the description on Amazon says it’s a 48v 15Ah battery. So…now I find myself in a dilemma. What’s the true voltage rating on my battery and how critical is it to have the same voltage batteries with this battery coupling gadget?
You have a 48v battery, batteries are sold at nominal voltage but peak will be higher as you see. It's normal and nothing to worry about.
No one battery will not start discharging in an uncontrolled way unless it doesn't have a BMS. Both batteries should have a BMS the BMS limits the output current.
As a rule never use a battery that doesn't have a BMS
However you shouldn't use batteries of a different voltage as it defeats the purpose of this device. You should charge them both fully. A slight difference in voltage is ok
@@Alex-uh1mj Thank you for all this information, I’m a novice at this and don’t want to ruin what I have while trying to improve it. Not sure what BMS is, hopefully I’ll be able to find it’s meaning and confirm my battery has this. Thanks again
My main goal is to reduce voltage sag when i go full throttle it'll drop 65v to 60v my controllers are 45a each. will this help reduce sag?
Yes it should as it will be less strain on each pack.
be buyin one....
As best I can calculate, the most linking up two batteries will do is initially transfer at 1C, so there really shouldn't be any need for a "battery combiner". Sidenote: I've been equalizing batteries in parallel for a long time with no problems.
I was thinking the same, I have a super 73 just added a 60v 30ah battery to a 60v 20ah battery and connected directly and works just great
With those you can combine 2 batteries with different capacity and depending on which model you have you can use 2 batteries with different voltages like 48v and 52v together but not all combiners will do that.
I'm going to run 2 batteries on a bike with a 10amp battery so I went with the exact same 10 amphr spare to add on... to avoid a mis-match and I'm getting ready to order a Y connector do you think I need one of those gadgets???
@autojohn-pu1vf I wouldn't use a y connector, you could but you will need to make sure your both batteries are at same capacity and voltage when charging or discharging where as for the double battery combiner it doesn't matter if voltage is different, these work by using the high voltage first then when both voltages are the same then it uses both batteries together regardless of capacity and helps with eliminating the voltage dip when using high Amps with one battery
@@robw5735 Thanks... so should be OK then using 2 exact same batteries and joining them when both fully charged🤔
@autojohn-pu1vf doesn't matter if using these active combiners if one of the battery fully charged and the other is not but it is better to have them charged the same though because you have less voltage sag and seems to make both batteries run more efficient than say swapping in and out each battery.
Do you need two the same batteries? Or can they have different capacity like 14Ah and 20Ah? Same voltage of course.
Different ah ratings are fine
@@JohnnyNerdOut Thanks. I already ordered one.
If you use just a splitter you don’t want one battery having more of a draw than the other. Your dealing with two separate bms ‘s. If you had two identical battery packs bought at the same time and charged to the exact same voltage etc. you could probably get away with it. The point of buying a parallel connector is you can add an aux battery and not have to buy another one from the bike manufacturer. Saves a lot of $.
Wich one for the Radmission
Can this be used with a Regenerative braking scooter?
No
Hey Johnny this is so Awesome Bro, Question will this work for my application: I have a stock scooter (72V - 30AH - Dual 5K Watt Motors) I want to add a 15AH external battery in parallel for better range. Will this component work ? THANKS...(Russ)
Yes as long as the second battery is also 72v and the controller doesn’t need more than 80a
@JohnnyNerdOut thanks my friend the manufacturer was OK with selling me an totally new battery 80 AH at 72V to use with the same controller for 899.00
Can you run this when one batery is dead and the other is full?
Yes but it would defeat its purpose
Will one battery be taken to shutoff before the other - that is, it's not going to over-drain one of the batteries?
No. They should be drained together
Also your BMS should stop your battery being over drained.
Do u ship to barbados
Johnny could you please confirm that using a 52v with a 48v is possible with this device? But anything else with a bigger difference than 4v is too dangerous. I am understanding correctly?
It’s not that it’s dangerous, it just wouldn’t really be of any service once the voltages are too far apart. I could argue that ANY difference is not worth it.
controler pls no eork
If your batteries are the same voltage, use a 5$ splitter. That's it.
Bad advice, too simplistic. Batteries can start off at the same voltage and end up wildly different..
@@Alex-uh1mjmore that batteries can start off at different voltages and violently try to charge the lower voltage bat from the higher as fast as physically possible, harming the battery and potentially melting the wires.
@@punkdigerati i know that. In this case i was going on the assumption he knew that and thought charging them to the same voltage and using a splitter was enough
Use a $5 splitter now and spend thousands of dollars later for when the bike eventually catches fire. A Y-splitter does not prevent backflow from the higher voltage pack to the lower.
If one battery is more charged than the other, they will rapidly adjust to be at the same potential. That means the battery with the higher voltage will push current into the battery with the lower voltage. The lower voltage battery can be overcharged which can lead to a fire or reduced life cycles for the battery cells.
Good idea but an even cheaper and safer way would be just to disconnect the first battery when it runs out and then connect the second.
sag starts at 50% best to switch there
Whats in them lil boxes to make doing what u say any different i wonder🤔@@Calebztheman
@@whitefeatherslinger8194 something that optimizes the use of 2 batteries
Do u ship to barbados