Eine sehr coole Maschine! Gratuliere! Ich habe meine auch vor 6 Jahren selber geplant und gebaut, allerdings eher in der Leistungs- und Preisklasse deiner Ratrig. Reicht aber für meine Zwecke völlig. Unter anderem liess ich mich auch von deinen Videos von damals inspirieren. Danke dafür! 😊 In deinem Fall ist es ja mittlerweilen weniger fürs Hobby, sondern für den professionellen Gitarrenbau, da lassen sich die Kosten auf alle Fälle rechtfertigen.
Awesome machine. Very well done 👍 For the fixture plate I have made very good experience with a 25mm thick POM plate with a 25mm grid of threads and alignment holes, combined with a 25mm grid vacuum channel for a 5mm foam cord. POM is durable enough and especially for woodworking the fixation bolts don't need to be tightened too crazy. It can be easily used with an MQL, in contrast to any woden spoil boards. But the best feature is the vacuum holding. Especially larger parts are so easy to be done. And with a VacuCard, VillMill, etc. also easy to make cut-outs and to mill slightly below the workpiece bottom, but not into the actual plate. So it is not a "spoil" board, but a true fixture plate...
Yes, POM is definitely also on my mind. My only worry would be how threads hold up over time, but worst case you could just install some metal inserts. I already got a vacuum pump, just need to get around to design some fixtures,... I'll definitely be asking you some questions about your setup when I start seriously planning. For now I have some guitars to build :D
Outstanding video - thankyou (... Well narrated, well structured - and with just the right amount of detail.) for info: I would like to know more about the tool changer - this isn't a feature of the CNCs at this size that I have been researching. It is refreshing to see this functionality.
This is totally awesome, i am using a Lead 1510 and it's working great for my needs, I am thinking about upgrading it to linear rails so I can get rid of those nasty nylon wheels. So far my very cheap Lead 1510 is close to 2000 Euros as of today.. overall I am happy with my machine, but its fun to watch machines like yours that plays in a totally different league, compared to mine. I am not feeling like the Businesscard scene in American Pshyco, I feel happy for you :D
I built mine (1900x790mm, designed myself from scratch) using Bosch-Rexroth extrusions, clearpath servos, original hiwin rails/ballscrews and mechatron 2.2kw (no ATC tho) and Smoothstepper for ~13k€. Feeds and speeds are comparable to yours. Then again, all the metrology equipment to actually tune it is probably another 1.5k€ :)
That depends a lot on the size of the tools you use. For larger bits you need slower rpm to get the same speed at the cutting edge versus the material. If you go too fast at the cutting edge you will cause more heat and premature failure. But as you reduce the tool size you need to increase the rpm to get the same surface speed, that's where high rpm can dramatically increase your possible cutting speed. The 16k rpm you mention would probably be about the max I want to run a 8-12mm endmill depending on the material, but with some of the tiny endmills I use for inlay work I would use 40k if I had it and still have less speed at the cutting edge than an 8mm tool at 16k.
@ thanks for reply. Your machine looks like a dream and video guide of it was right on point. Yes i see, the cutting edge distance from the rotation center dramatically changes the rpm requirement 😊 Do you know if this spindle can handle lower rpm with good torque for occationally steel milling? Is there any spindle/servo on the market that can deal with wood carving as well as ”ok” steel milling? I assume wood require about 10-40k rpm, but ideally steel milling would be best
still curious if you figured out a way to accurately tune your y axis dual drive motors or if you feel that they are just working OK? I really want to use servos in future builds but just can't wrap my head around the "well they seem to be working well" vs. actually being able to tune them properly. I get the single motor axis drives where you can run the tuning program under actual load conditions, but the dual drive thing makes me crazy not actually knowing they are tuned correctly. I feel someone could make a fortune and sell a whole lot of servos if this could be figured out and not be so "witchcrafty"..... BTW, been following this whole build. You should be super proud of yourself. This is a beast of amazing enginuity. You really outdid most builds I've seen in RUclipsVerse. BRAVO!!!!
I mentioned it briefly here, I tuned them by disconnecting one and making the gantry lighter. It's a hacky workaround but better than no tuning at all. I believe if you get the higher end servo drives they allow you to connect the drives together and work as one with communication between. This should also allow for them to be tuned together. Check out the Fiber Laser from Travis Mitchel, he uses that feature of the Leadshine drives. (Believe he has EL7 or EL8 instead of the EL6 I have)
A bit underwelming considering the price point. One could get a RatRig Stronghold pro kit with a jianken jgl-80 spindle and get atleast 90% of the performance of that machine and still have enough money to buy a used car 😅
That is definitely a very valid option and quite similar to what I had in mind at first. I had considered the Stronghold Pro in the beginning of this project but there were enough things I wanted to change that eventually I decided to start from scratch. Things sorta snowballed from there. :D
Nice machine but with that cost and time you would be better off financing a known proven machine and with a low monthly payment you would start making money on day one.
Depends, if there is a commercial machine that fits your needs and you can get good financing that might be a way to go. For me there were no comparable machines that fit my workshop and needs in this price range. Plus while I was wishing this project was done in half the time I do also really enjoy building CNCs, so that's definitely also a plus.
To be fair 16k is the retail cost of the components, not what I paid. Also an equivalent commercial machine would be 20-30k easily, so I'm pretty happy with mine. But it's definitely not for everyone
I have a 2'x3' cnc router that is produced by a US company and has similar capabilities (has a full steel construction), it was around $18k for the cnc after all the add ons and upgrades from factory, shipping was a little more then $2k and it was financed which adds around $1k. $16k sounds about right...
Your command of English is amazing, as is your machine.
Gorgeous Machine, David 🥳🥳
That is a serious CNC router. Well done Sir !.
A very nice video and a good overview of your new machine. Have fun with it 🙂
Thanks guys, your X22 Spindle is what really takes it to the next level!
Eine sehr coole Maschine! Gratuliere! Ich habe meine auch vor 6 Jahren selber geplant und gebaut, allerdings eher in der Leistungs- und Preisklasse deiner Ratrig. Reicht aber für meine Zwecke völlig. Unter anderem liess ich mich auch von deinen Videos von damals inspirieren. Danke dafür! 😊 In deinem Fall ist es ja mittlerweilen weniger fürs Hobby, sondern für den professionellen Gitarrenbau, da lassen sich die Kosten auf alle Fälle rechtfertigen.
Really an amazing build.
Awesome machine. Very well done 👍
For the fixture plate I have made very good experience with a 25mm thick POM plate with a 25mm grid of threads and alignment holes, combined with a 25mm grid vacuum channel for a 5mm foam cord. POM is durable enough and especially for woodworking the fixation bolts don't need to be tightened too crazy. It can be easily used with an MQL, in contrast to any woden spoil boards.
But the best feature is the vacuum holding. Especially larger parts are so easy to be done. And with a VacuCard, VillMill, etc. also easy to make cut-outs and to mill slightly below the workpiece bottom, but not into the actual plate. So it is not a "spoil" board, but a true fixture plate...
Yes, POM is definitely also on my mind. My only worry would be how threads hold up over time, but worst case you could just install some metal inserts. I already got a vacuum pump, just need to get around to design some fixtures,... I'll definitely be asking you some questions about your setup when I start seriously planning. For now I have some guitars to build :D
@@DarkArtGuitars Anytime. Glad to support...
Btw: my plate is like 2yrs old and still the threads are fine
Outstanding video - thankyou (... Well narrated, well structured - and with just the right amount of detail.)
for info: I would like to know more about the tool changer - this isn't a feature of the CNCs at this size that I have been researching. It is refreshing to see this functionality.
Esto si es un cohete. Enhorabuena ,gran construcción
Awesome video! Very inspiring! Thank you!👍
Very nice job, look forward seeing videos of it cutting metal parts too.
Would like to see how it goes with the spoilboard
Great video, David . Many thanks!
This is totally awesome, i am using a Lead 1510 and it's working great for my needs, I am thinking about upgrading it to linear rails so I can get rid of those nasty nylon wheels. So far my very cheap Lead 1510 is close to 2000 Euros as of today.. overall I am happy with my machine, but its fun to watch machines like yours that plays in a totally different league, compared to mine. I am not feeling like the Businesscard scene in American Pshyco, I feel happy for you :D
what a nice machine man
love the build, made a cheaper version because i dint need more but yours is insanly good.
Maquina incrível, muito bem feita👏
I built mine (1900x790mm, designed myself from scratch) using Bosch-Rexroth extrusions, clearpath servos, original hiwin rails/ballscrews and mechatron 2.2kw (no ATC tho) and Smoothstepper for ~13k€. Feeds and speeds are comparable to yours.
Then again, all the metrology equipment to actually tune it is probably another 1.5k€ :)
SIXTEEN GRAND 😮 HOLY SHIT! I’ll keep my $3k onefinity 😂
Spindle looks amazing. Dont high RPM result in higher tool wear? I was told >16k RPM was no good for the bits.
That depends a lot on the size of the tools you use. For larger bits you need slower rpm to get the same speed at the cutting edge versus the material. If you go too fast at the cutting edge you will cause more heat and premature failure. But as you reduce the tool size you need to increase the rpm to get the same surface speed, that's where high rpm can dramatically increase your possible cutting speed. The 16k rpm you mention would probably be about the max I want to run a 8-12mm endmill depending on the material, but with some of the tiny endmills I use for inlay work I would use 40k if I had it and still have less speed at the cutting edge than an 8mm tool at 16k.
@ thanks for reply. Your machine looks like a dream and video guide of it was right on point.
Yes i see, the cutting edge distance from the rotation center dramatically changes the rpm requirement 😊
Do you know if this spindle can handle lower rpm with good torque for occationally steel milling? Is there any spindle/servo on the market that can deal with wood carving as well as ”ok” steel milling? I assume wood require about 10-40k rpm, but ideally steel milling would be best
still curious if you figured out a way to accurately tune your y axis dual drive motors or if you feel that they are just working OK? I really want to use servos in future builds but just can't wrap my head around the "well they seem to be working well" vs. actually being able to tune them properly. I get the single motor axis drives where you can run the tuning program under actual load conditions, but the dual drive thing makes me crazy not actually knowing they are tuned correctly. I feel someone could make a fortune and sell a whole lot of servos if this could be figured out and not be so "witchcrafty"..... BTW, been following this whole build. You should be super proud of yourself. This is a beast of amazing enginuity. You really outdid most builds I've seen in RUclipsVerse. BRAVO!!!!
I mentioned it briefly here, I tuned them by disconnecting one and making the gantry lighter. It's a hacky workaround but better than no tuning at all. I believe if you get the higher end servo drives they allow you to connect the drives together and work as one with communication between. This should also allow for them to be tuned together. Check out the Fiber Laser from Travis Mitchel, he uses that feature of the Leadshine drives. (Believe he has EL7 or EL8 instead of the EL6 I have)
Nice video, I'm building my cnc with a Masso controller, I just released a video of step 1 of the build.. What size chain did you use? Thank you
25x50mm fully enclosed with 75mm bending radius
How long did it take to make this router? From scratch to final result. Few months?
Around 6 months actively working on it. A few more months of planning before and years of dreaming :D
👏👏👏👏
Nice
A bit underwelming considering the price point.
One could get a RatRig Stronghold pro kit with a jianken jgl-80 spindle and get atleast 90% of the performance of that machine and still have enough money to buy a used car 😅
That is definitely a very valid option and quite similar to what I had in mind at first. I had considered the Stronghold Pro in the beginning of this project but there were enough things I wanted to change that eventually I decided to start from scratch. Things sorta snowballed from there. :D
The spindle would cost more than my cnc. And the cnc cost over 4K€ 😂
Same for me with my upgraded Killerbee I had before. :D
Nice machine but with that cost and time you would be better off financing a known proven machine and with a low monthly payment you would start making money on day one.
Depends, if there is a commercial machine that fits your needs and you can get good financing that might be a way to go. For me there were no comparable machines that fit my workshop and needs in this price range. Plus while I was wishing this project was done in half the time I do also really enjoy building CNCs, so that's definitely also a plus.
@ Definitely is hard to find a machine that fits the home shop. You did a very nice job building it and good luck with it.
16k,ripped yourself off buddy. Big fail.
To be fair 16k is the retail cost of the components, not what I paid. Also an equivalent commercial machine would be 20-30k easily, so I'm pretty happy with mine. But it's definitely not for everyone
I have a 2'x3' cnc router that is produced by a US company and has similar capabilities (has a full steel construction), it was around $18k for the cnc after all the add ons and upgrades from factory, shipping was a little more then $2k and it was financed which adds around $1k.
$16k sounds about right...