That’s a tough one Theodore, you’ve made a repair ( and an expensive one ) and now you need to explain what else needs to be done. The next repair is extremely expensive . These ones are hard to explain and clients don’t like surprises. Wish you luck with this one. We’ve all been here at some point if we have been in this game any length of time. 👍🇨🇦
Treat it like it's yours. Odds are, it is the compressor. But melt downs at the compressor terminals do happen. Check it at the compressor terminals before you decide to do a replacement. You do really good work though. Thank you for your videos.
Brand new system, brand new warranty, I hate changing the compressor on older stuff because it is hard to guarantee it. As far as diagnosis, I check C/S/R to ground and if I'm shorted, it's obvious. If nothing is shorted then I go to the next steps. I think our eyes and ears tell us a lot and an experienced tech knows the deal. Good job Ted.
Having a compressor run dry like that a few times is a good way to kill them. It sucks for the owner, but you take that chance 'surfing' a slow leak like that for a couple years. Had the same thing happen with mine, but I was aiming to replace the whole thing versus just the coil and did just that.
You're the kind of tech that most people wish they had; in other words you're one of the best out there. Oh, could you clean the carpet now that you're here? lol 😎
Hell yeah bud! As you fellas head into the heat we here down under heading into the cold! Bring on them gas furnace services/repairs! 🇦🇺 Much love Ted!
Here’s probably what I would have done since you brought me up to diagnose that. I would have checked for good voltage and amp draw on both common and run but also on the start winding for that moment where it tried to start. I would have also probably tried a super boost and if I had momentary higher Amp draw on the super boost wire as well then diagnosis is pretty much done the windings are good or they wouldn’t be drawing amperage. Mechanically locked up
I would’ve pulled out my Annie and tried to unlock it by running it in reverse depending on what type of compressor it was. It’s bad news no matter what anyways. Oh and I would’ve suggested years ago that we try a stop leak with dye. All this is conjecture anyways. I think Tom does a great job and he needs to ignore the keyboard cowboys. Everybody wants to show how smart they are which amounts to a bunch of bs. I don’t mean you Joe. You were called out on the dance floor. I’m talking about Billy boy, Ray ray, Tain the brain and the gang.
Relatively speaking,air handlers are not expensive compared to the condensing unit.Recommend basic 15 seer system over compressor replacement on a sysytem that age.
@@realsthvac7942can attest. I have a similar ICP with an LG scroll compressor. PROPERLY installed with new matching evap coil. I live in the hot humid Deep South with 100% humidity days and 100 degrees. For years that thing has kept up and kept my house at 66 just how I like it. Compressor is just as quiet as the video I took on it’s first start up. This one lost all its oil from an evap leak and locked up. A Copeland would have done the same with no oil lmao
Everyone wants to point the finger at LG. They are just as good as a comparable Copeland today. Customer ran it completely out of oil and somehow LG is junk? Go drain the oil in your truck and drive it around and report back
I watch a lot of your videos, really get a lot of good info. I have a question about Capacitors. You never mention the voltage 370v or 440v. Do you have to use the same voltage as the old cap, do you keep Both voltages on your truck?
Heres what i think happened. Jugding by tbe fact you seen lots of dye out of the drain line tells me that the compressor has lost lots of its oil, thus damaging tbe bearings in the compressor causing it to lock up. Whenever you have a good size refrigerant leak, you can be dang sure you have lost lots of the poe oil charge in the compressor. You could hear the bad bearings screaching in the compressor when you powered it on the first time. I have been down this road when replacing an evap, luckly i tested the unit one last time before i decided to install a new coil. Also i have a feeling this unit was ran for quite some time on a low charge, that can damage the windings as its suction cooled. Hope you can change the compressor for them. Looks to be an lg compressor. Is this a rotary, if so why are they putting rotarys in central units. I have seen this on the smaller 2 and 2 in a half ton units. Rotarys are for window units not central. I like to see an Emerson Copeland scroll in my unit, not a cheap rotary.
If the thing didn't have a low pressure cutout, then it could have wrecked itself from lack of flow/lubricant. The red flag (to me) would be "why is this thing empty?"... Before I started any work. That's a tough one...
with a locked up compressor, I'd assume there's metallic glitter and bad oil all through the system. best to replace the whole condenser at that point and line-set too or flush/clean it very good. that sucks royally to everyone involved and it would be a wise company policy to always bump the compressor for a few seconds before jumping into a coil or any major replacement like that. sure that wont tell you it's 100% functioning, but at least there's a chance of not falling on the sword so hard.
Removing the capacitor from the circuit is the proper way of testing it otherwise you could be reading other caps in the circuit at the same time. Testing the resistance of the windings by holding the probes and touching the wires with your fingers is not the proper way of testing for resistance. You could be measuring the resistance through your body at the same time.
Was the evaporator a fixed orfice or txt. Was evap coil TXV or fixed orfice factory installed or field installed. I’m just curious if that portion was check prior to installing a new evap coil.
Question, what's the easiest / fastest way to tell if a compressor is running without being able to hear it because it's too noisy from other units running nearby? Thanks for any suggestions
feel the heat coming from the top, should be warm depending on outside temp and other variables but should be warm, even hot. feel the liquid line see if its warm and the suction line if its cold or cool
Another LG compressor failure😂. Copeland compressors have Toyota reliability. They are very reliable. Just like Toyotas, they still will have failures and break down every now and then, but it is very uncommon. I’ve seen Copeland compressors run low on refrigerant for years, but they still run!! Unless an amateur installed a system, you are rarely gonna get a Copeland failure!
Gee, maybe if you but some leak stop in it instead of dye when the problem started, all the oil wouldn't have ended up in the evaporater drain pan and the compresser wouldn't have locked up. But to each his own.
That’s a tough one Theodore, you’ve made a repair ( and an expensive one ) and now you need to explain what else needs to be done. The next repair is extremely expensive . These ones are hard to explain and clients don’t like surprises. Wish you luck with this one. We’ve all been here at some point if we have been in this game any length of time. 👍🇨🇦
Treat it like it's yours. Odds are, it is the compressor. But melt downs at the compressor terminals do happen. Check it at the compressor terminals before you decide to do a replacement. You do really good work though. Thank you for your videos.
You are an honest man. Some would have edited out you past the house and turned around. You made it an opportunity to tell your story. Thank you.
Great Video as always Ted, love learning from you. Thank you very much.
Brand new system, brand new warranty, I hate changing the compressor on older stuff because it is hard to guarantee it. As far as diagnosis, I check C/S/R to ground and if I'm shorted, it's obvious. If nothing is shorted then I go to the next steps. I think our eyes and ears tell us a lot and an experienced tech knows the deal. Good job Ted.
Having a compressor run dry like that a few times is a good way to kill them. It sucks for the owner, but you take that chance 'surfing' a slow leak like that for a couple years. Had the same thing happen with mine, but I was aiming to replace the whole thing versus just the coil and did just that.
Good post Ted. Like how you went about testing and attempting to get that comp. to kick.
You're the kind of tech that most people wish they had; in other words you're one of the best out there. Oh, could you clean the carpet now that you're here? lol 😎
Hell yeah bud! As you fellas head into the heat we here down under heading into the cold! Bring on them gas furnace services/repairs! 🇦🇺
Much love Ted!
I believe they changed the hard star kit info about 2 years ago. Good content. 👍
GONE WITH THE WIND!!! needs a new system!!
Drove by TR many times in my college days (going between Clemson and my hometown up near Asheville).
Always had the AC compressor with a mallet. Sometimes you can free up the windings.
Here’s probably what I would have done since you brought me up to diagnose that. I would have checked for good voltage and amp draw on both common and run but also on the start winding for that moment where it tried to start. I would have also probably tried a super boost and if I had momentary higher Amp draw on the super boost wire as well then diagnosis is pretty much done the windings are good or they wouldn’t be drawing amperage. Mechanically locked up
I would’ve pulled out my Annie and tried to unlock it by running it in reverse depending on what type of compressor it was. It’s bad news no matter what anyways. Oh and I would’ve suggested years ago that we try a stop leak with dye. All this is conjecture anyways. I think Tom does a great job and he needs to ignore the keyboard cowboys. Everybody wants to show how smart they are which amounts to a bunch of bs. I don’t mean you Joe. You were called out on the dance floor. I’m talking about Billy boy, Ray ray, Tain the brain and the gang.
She gone! Nice job Ted
Do you leave the dead snake back on the capacitor before you leave?
😄👌😎👍😎👍😎👍
LoL
Had similar situations. I usually tell customers that there a chance the compressor has major damage or long term damage that’s it’s risky
Relatively speaking,air handlers are not expensive compared to the condensing unit.Recommend basic 15 seer system over compressor replacement on a sysytem that age.
Another good vid ... Thx ...
Hopefully there will be a part 2. At this point, changeout and discount the new coil, or replace the compressor?
That may have not happened to a Copeland scroll.
Hello from the great state of Michigan
That stinks. Great video
OMG a compressor fail. How can it happen. Hope no one was hurt or killed!
Huh, I see the problem. LG compressor😂
Ain't nothing wrong with LG
@@realsthvac7942can attest. I have a similar ICP with an LG scroll compressor. PROPERLY installed with new matching evap coil. I live in the hot humid Deep South with 100% humidity days and 100 degrees. For years that thing has kept up and kept my house at 66 just how I like it. Compressor is just as quiet as the video I took on it’s first start up. This one lost all its oil from an evap leak and locked up. A Copeland would have done the same with no oil lmao
Everyone wants to point the finger at LG. They are just as good as a comparable Copeland today. Customer ran it completely out of oil and somehow LG is junk? Go drain the oil in your truck and drive it around and report back
Good video
I watch a lot of your videos, really get a lot of good info. I have a question about Capacitors. You never mention the voltage 370v or 440v. Do you have to use the same voltage as the old cap, do you keep Both voltages on your truck?
Don't have to, can use either one. I usually replace with a 440v for the hell of it
wow, thats bad timing
I do not test capacitors while running either! The sticker tells me what it should be and my meter tells me what it is!
Heres what i think happened. Jugding by tbe fact you seen lots of dye out of the drain line tells me that the compressor has lost lots of its oil, thus damaging tbe bearings in the compressor causing it to lock up. Whenever you have a good size refrigerant leak, you can be dang sure you have lost lots of the poe oil charge in the compressor. You could hear the bad bearings screaching in the compressor when you powered it on the first time. I have been down this road when replacing an evap, luckly i tested the unit one last time before i decided to install a new coil. Also i have a feeling this unit was ran for quite some time on a low charge, that can damage the windings as its suction cooled. Hope you can change the compressor for them. Looks to be an lg compressor. Is this a rotary, if so why are they putting rotarys in central units. I have seen this on the smaller 2 and 2 in a half ton units. Rotarys are for window units not central. I like to see an Emerson Copeland scroll in my unit, not a cheap rotary.
It’s an LG scroll.
Replace the compressor.
Good thing it’s a 410A system so all they will need is a new condenser or compressor.
If the thing didn't have a low pressure cutout, then it could have wrecked itself from lack of flow/lubricant. The red flag (to me) would be "why is this thing empty?"... Before I started any work.
That's a tough one...
with a locked up compressor, I'd assume there's metallic glitter and bad oil all through the system. best to replace the whole condenser at that point and line-set too or flush/clean it very good.
that sucks royally to everyone involved and it would be a wise company policy to always bump the compressor for a few seconds before jumping into a coil or any major replacement like that.
sure that wont tell you it's 100% functioning, but at least there's a chance of not falling on the sword so hard.
Hey Ted, the reason you don't test them in place is because they are usually weak an have to be taken off anyway!
Removing the capacitor from the circuit is the proper way of testing it otherwise you could be reading other caps in the circuit at the same time.
Testing the resistance of the windings by holding the probes and touching the wires with your fingers is not the proper way of testing for resistance. You could be measuring the resistance through your body at the same time.
Was the evaporator a fixed orfice or txt. Was evap coil TXV or fixed orfice factory installed or field installed.
I’m just curious if that portion was check prior to installing a new evap coil.
Replace the compression. Since it already has a new coill. I wouldn't pay to replace the unit now.
Replace it with a copeland or you may be back again!
I would have tried to make that comp spin backwards. The oil leaking out for some years will make the comp run dry and lock itself
Can't make that comp. Spin backwards only 3 phase comps can do that trick
LG compressors are the worst. I came across a bad one today in a Lennox RTU.
Question, what's the easiest / fastest way to tell if a compressor is running without being able to hear it because it's too noisy from other units running nearby? Thanks for any suggestions
feel the heat coming from the top, should be warm depending on outside temp and other variables but should be warm, even hot. feel the liquid line see if its warm and the suction line if its cold or cool
Imagine this being a DIY?
Looks like travelers rest…
Kinda like putting a transmission in a car before you check if the engine is good.
👍
DRT (dead right there). Sad when it happens.
Hopefully I can get like you one day TikTok banned my account year of content on HVAC
She’s a leakah
😂dead 😊
ICP coils leak like a sieve worst junk ever
Another LG compressor failure😂. Copeland compressors have Toyota reliability. They are very reliable. Just like Toyotas, they still will have failures and break down every now and then, but it is very uncommon. I’ve seen Copeland compressors run low on refrigerant for years, but they still run!! Unless an amateur installed a system, you are rarely gonna get a Copeland failure!
That LG would've locked up with the proper charge anyway 🤣🤣🤣
Don’t like these ICP units without LPS
13:33 I see the problem
Lg makes some awful compressors.
Gee, maybe if you but some leak stop in it instead of dye when the problem started, all the oil wouldn't have ended up in the evaporater drain pan and the compresser wouldn't have locked up. But to each his own.