I'm going to have to replace the AC on my house at some point. It's from 1998. My contractor has sold me two payne units for my duplex and so far have only had a fan go out since install 4 years ago. My house is a little nicer. Would going to a trane basic unit like this one be any better than say a payne basic unit? Or just save the money ?
Trane has been junk lately and parts are so overpriced when out of warranty. I had one customer where it would have been close to a thousand to replace just the blower motor on a Trane. The company before me wanted to charge them $2100. Trane and Lennox have been horrible though. Replacing coils on 2 and 3 year old systems left and right for leaks 🤷♂️
I have an old 2.5 ton R22 heat pump that was installed in 1992. It has had a few things go bad on it. When it goes bad what unit would you recommend. I would prefer quality over efficiency. I like quality work and a quality product. Thanks and keep the videos coming. Richard
In the SouthEast we have a minimum of 14 S.E.E.R. that we can sell to public... other areas can still sell 13 S.E.E.R. so maybe that has something to do with it. Otherwise, I don't know.
The new Trane condensing unit says installation prohibited in southwest. I assume that is due to differences in regional efficiency requirements. Or does it have to do with the design maximum ambient spec? I hate labels that only tell part of the story.
The new unitsis 42000 BTUH via the model number at 12:08 . The Southwestern states are AZ, CA, NM and NV. These states say a minimum SEER of 14 too but add an extra spec of a minimum spec of 12.2 for a system less than 45000 BTUH and 11.7 for units larger than 45k. Anti's Southern state has the same 14 SEER but no minimum EER spec. EER is at 80 F inside, 95 outside. SEER has a bucket of ranges, many milder. Thus SEER is higher than EER. A mess of different new brands/ units/models can all be 14 SEER and but be say EER of 10, 11, 12, 13 etc. It is the mild conditions "overhead/losses" in the hardware that can create these differences. ie say adding a TXV, variable speed inside or outside fans etc.
@@E150GT It's held together with crappy tape and staples......enough said right there. I wish I had a dollar for every split seam, collapsed return, and hole I've found over the years! I'd be retired!!
I had one shorted to ground on July 4th also. It was a York with a 10-year complete warranty and the guy expected us to have it fixed the very next day. And that just wasn't possible. So I guess he had to drive his Porsche to a hotel room and stay.
I have a question. I have a central air conditioning system York. The problem is that the compressor will turn on sometimes and other times it will not turn on. The tech replaced capacitor, the thing that holds the wires from thermostat (don't remember name), cleaned the evaporator coil and condenser, added a jump start to electric box for compressor, checked for leak, but their was none, thermostat wire was chewed on a little bit but we spliced it and fixed that. Do you have any suggestions. Could it be thermostat wire or the thermostat itself (but it turns the furnace on and that works) or could it be an electrical problem. Thanks.
If you don't mind a third party chiming in, I've been told that duct board can easily harbor Legionella bacteria. It's also made with fiberglass and not only will it make you itch, it's possible to get a "splinter". I'm just starting out in HVAC myself, so maybe there are other reasons not to like it. Duct board is actually against code in many places here.
@@uxwbill, You are right!. These hackers are so stupid and they don't care about code, It is against code, what happens if a home inspection is looking at it a bad code, they have trouble.
I have a question. I have a central air conditioning system York. The problem is that the compressor will turn on sometimes and other times it will not turn on. The tech replaced capacitor, the thing that holds the wires from thermostat (don't remember name), cleaned the evaporator coil and condenser, added a jump start to electric box for compressor, checked for leak, but their was none, thermostat wire was chewed on a little bit but we spliced it and fixed that. Do you have any suggestions. Could it be thermostat wire or the thermostat itself (but it turns the furnace on and that works) or could it be an electrical problem. Thanks.
@@joshuatrevino2940good evening I thought it was fixed but it's not. Ok here it is. The unit has a new capacitor, electrical connector for thermostat wire for fan and compressor, a new expansion valve on A coil, 410a, it's been vacuumed out, and no leaking The issue is that when you turn the heat on for a cold spring night the heater works, but when you turn it back to cool the next day it will not kick on the compressor, but the outside fan and air handler fan will come on. The compressor sometimes will turn on if you go from heat to cool heat to cool fast. The head pressure was hitting 500 pounds before the unit shut down, but fixed that issue with the new expansion valve. I just don't know what the issue is. I am thinking maybe the thermostat or reverse valve. Can you help me out. Thanks.
this happened to me 4th july '96 that hot humid summer. dairy farm bulk tank compressor dead short no way to cool the milk. milk truck came twice that day and my ac guy was 1 state away fishing on a boat 7 miles into a lake with his dad when he got my emergency phone call. he had new one installed/running by 6pm
I would be super careful when removing the harness plug from the compressor. It happens to me twice that one of the terminals blow up while I was taking it off to check the wiring. Almost burned my hands....
I'm absolutely confused ? Are we in this business to make an honest living or are we in it to pray the customer doesnt have to pay for a bigger repair if its legit ? "We were hoping to see". What ? A bad cap, shorted wire ? Why wouldn't you hope to see a grounded compressor on an older unit ? No offense but we are not in business to hope the better outcome for the customer unless its under warrantyl.. Lets see...new capacitor vs. new compressor job , or a condenser swap out or better yet....a complete change out ? Why would you be so worried about saving a customer money IF it is a legitimate bad compressor ,? We are here to make the company money . Not pray to the HVAC Gods that is just a simple repair for the homeowner. Im sorry for the rude rant but this video touched a nerve with me.
Hey Harry Hathaway, you would be the last repairman I would call to fix anything for me. ""We are not in business to hope the better outcome for the customer""". What a nasty attitude....
He is the one trying to work on and sell bottom of the line Micro channel units that are built ready to leak. You should hope that equipment you sell and work on will last longer than expected. You hope you sell them a good unit that will last 20 years not Last just a day longer than the warranty.
Are you even in the industry? I’d rather show up and find a bad cap, fix it, maybe blast some juice in it if needed, and roll on the the next house ANY DAY OF THE WEEK.
If you fix a customer's old equipment they'll be so happy that you did instead of just trying to sell them a new system right away. Eventually when they are ready to do the change out they will call you for it no doubt. That's how you get customers. You're a moron.
Very helpful ...thank you!
We replace both plenums and the aux pan on EVERY install. If you hate duct board then get rid of it!
Thank you for doing a follow-up video IN THE SAME VIDEO
I thought XB was the low end?
I like watching your videos nice work
I'm going to have to replace the AC on my house at some point. It's from 1998. My contractor has sold me two payne units for my duplex and so far have only had a fan go out since install 4 years ago. My house is a little nicer. Would going to a trane basic unit like this one be any better than say a payne basic unit? Or just save the money ?
100 times better yes !!
Trane has been junk lately and parts are so overpriced when out of warranty. I had one customer where it would have been close to a thousand to replace just the blower motor on a Trane. The company before me wanted to charge them $2100. Trane and Lennox have been horrible though. Replacing coils on 2 and 3 year old systems left and right for leaks 🤷♂️
I have an old 2.5 ton R22 heat pump that was installed in 1992. It has had a few things go bad on it. When it goes bad what unit would you recommend. I would prefer quality over efficiency.
I like quality work and a quality product.
Thanks and keep the videos coming.
Richard
what city and state are you in ?
Ted I am in Harrisonburg VA
What system did u get
Quality and efficiency typically go hand in hand for the most part
@@RG_sssSMOKING get a Heil 15 seers Deluxe heat pump
Hopefully the owner did clear that 'folage'! Install looks good! Good video! B.l.t.n64!
Good job!
Great video ted. Your the man !
Wish our supply houses had lined plenums. Would be nice.
I had a new carrier rtu with a bad burn out years ago from the factory.
Ted I have to ask, why do the outdoor units have "Install Prohibited in Southwest"? I don't believe that I have seen that before.
In the SouthEast we have a minimum of 14 S.E.E.R. that we can sell to public... other areas can still sell 13 S.E.E.R. so maybe that has something to do with it. Otherwise, I don't know.
Northern states can still install seer 13, south cannot. Seer 14+ down there.
We so enjoy watching you! As I said before...helps to keep me up to speed!
I had a new unit that the compressor was out. Friday new ac, she was moving in felt bad
On the condensate line in the attic, shouldn't the vent (at 10:54, the one on the left with the burn marks on it) be open and not capped?
1st thing I smell the Freon go from there 41 years in a van
Larry the cable guy does ac ?
The new Trane condensing unit says installation prohibited in southwest. I assume that is due to differences in regional efficiency requirements. Or does it have to do with the design maximum ambient spec? I hate labels that only tell part of the story.
The new unitsis 42000 BTUH via the model number at 12:08 . The Southwestern states are AZ, CA, NM and NV. These states say a minimum SEER of 14 too but add an extra spec of a minimum spec of 12.2 for a system less than 45000 BTUH and 11.7 for units larger than 45k. Anti's Southern state has the same 14 SEER but no minimum EER spec. EER is at 80 F inside, 95 outside. SEER has a bucket of ranges, many milder. Thus SEER is higher than EER.
A mess of different new brands/ units/models can all be 14 SEER and but be say EER of 10, 11, 12, 13 etc. It is the mild conditions "overhead/losses" in the hardware that can create these differences. ie say adding a TXV, variable speed inside or outside fans etc.
did you just use your bare hand on the contactor? holy crap i would not do that even if i knew it was safe i would use a screw driver
Wussy
Nice work Mr. C.
Cool install 👍✌
I hate duct board as well. I won't use or re-use the crap.
What's wrong with ductboard. I think my whole duct system is made of it
@@E150GT It's held together with crappy tape and staples......enough said right there. I wish I had a dollar for every split seam, collapsed return, and hole I've found over the years! I'd be retired!!
Good job ted
wow coils grounded mmmm thats expensive
I had one shorted to ground on July 4th also. It was a York with a 10-year complete warranty and the guy expected us to have it fixed the very next day. And that just wasn't possible. So I guess he had to drive his Porsche to a hotel room and stay.
keep some portables in stock and offer to sell them one or loan them out lol.
I have a question. I have a central air conditioning system York. The problem is that the compressor will turn on sometimes and other times it will not turn on. The tech replaced capacitor, the thing that holds the wires from thermostat (don't remember name), cleaned the evaporator coil and condenser, added a jump start to electric box for compressor, checked for leak, but their was none, thermostat wire was chewed on a little bit but we spliced it and fixed that. Do you have any suggestions. Could it be thermostat wire or the thermostat itself (but it turns the furnace on and that works) or could it be an electrical problem.
Thanks.
the contactor didn't look very happy either.
Very Nice install
Ted , you keep at it and your gonna make a decent HVAC/R man ... Lol ... Good vid as usual ...
Ted, thanks for another great video. I’ve heard you say several times and I’m new to learning about HVAC business, what’s the problem with duct board?
If you don't mind a third party chiming in, I've been told that duct board can easily harbor Legionella bacteria. It's also made with fiberglass and not only will it make you itch, it's possible to get a "splinter".
I'm just starting out in HVAC myself, so maybe there are other reasons not to like it. Duct board is actually against code in many places here.
@@uxwbill, You are right!. These hackers are so stupid and they don't care about code, It is against code, what happens if a home inspection is looking at it a bad code, they have trouble.
I have a question. I have a central air conditioning system York. The problem is that the compressor will turn on sometimes and other times it will not turn on. The tech replaced capacitor, the thing that holds the wires from thermostat (don't remember name), cleaned the evaporator coil and condenser, added a jump start to electric box for compressor, checked for leak, but their was none, thermostat wire was chewed on a little bit but we spliced it and fixed that. Do you have any suggestions. Could it be thermostat wire or the thermostat itself (but it turns the furnace on and that works) or could it be an electrical problem.
Thanks.
R H When you say the compressor turns on only sometimes, do you mean that the cooling mode only works some of the times?
@@joshuatrevino2940 we fixed it it was the high pressure. Because of the expansion valve was clogged so we just replace that in the works now
R H Glad to hear.
@@joshuatrevino2940good evening I thought it was fixed but it's not. Ok here it is.
The unit has a new capacitor, electrical connector for thermostat wire for fan and compressor, a new expansion valve on A coil, 410a, it's been vacuumed out, and no leaking The issue is that when you turn the heat on for a cold spring night the heater works, but when you turn it back to cool the next day it will not kick on the compressor, but the outside fan and air handler fan will come on. The compressor sometimes will turn on if you go from heat to cool heat to cool fast. The head pressure was hitting 500 pounds before the unit shut down, but fixed that issue with the new expansion valve. I just don't know what the issue is. I am thinking maybe the thermostat or reverse valve. Can you help me out.
Thanks.
@@9to5techs What kind of thermostat do you have? Also, did an A/C company install it or an Electric Company install it?
this happened to me 4th july '96 that hot humid summer. dairy farm bulk tank compressor dead short no way to cool the milk. milk truck came twice that day and my ac guy was 1 state away fishing on a boat 7 miles into a lake with his dad when he got my emergency phone call. he had new one installed/running by 6pm
I bet that made him swear
I would be super careful when removing the harness plug from the compressor. It happens to me twice that one of the terminals blow up while I was taking it off to check the wiring. Almost burned my hands....
yes I have seen that happen as well... oil and freon goes everywhere !!
twice in one day to me and it was bad. Customer was next to me and we both run like chickens. Burned oil smell ,acid...
I'm absolutely confused ? Are we in this business to make an honest living or are we in it to pray the customer doesnt have to pay for a bigger repair if its legit ?
"We were hoping to see".
What ? A bad cap, shorted wire ? Why wouldn't you hope to see a grounded compressor on an older unit ? No offense but we are not in business to hope the better outcome for the customer unless its under warrantyl.. Lets see...new capacitor vs. new compressor job , or a condenser swap out or better yet....a complete change out ? Why would you be so worried about saving a customer money IF it is a legitimate bad compressor ,? We are here to make the company money . Not pray to the HVAC Gods that is just a simple repair for the homeowner.
Im sorry for the rude rant but this video touched a nerve with me.
Hey Harry Hathaway, you would be the last repairman I would call to fix anything for me. ""We are not in business to hope the better outcome for the customer""". What a nasty attitude....
Yep, Harry is the guy out to make money being a sales man for new systems, not doing the right thing.
He is the one trying to work on and sell bottom of the line Micro channel units that are built ready to leak. You should hope that equipment you sell and work on will last longer than expected. You hope you sell them a good unit that will last 20 years not Last just a day longer than the warranty.
Are you even in the industry? I’d rather show up and find a bad cap, fix it, maybe blast some juice in it if needed, and roll on the the next house ANY DAY OF THE WEEK.
If you fix a customer's old equipment they'll be so happy that you did instead of just trying to sell them a new system right away. Eventually when they are ready to do the change out they will call you for it no doubt. That's how you get customers. You're a moron.