HARD BLOCS at the SHOP | COMPCLIMB training series
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- Опубликовано: 28 июн 2024
- Loi Duong Jr:
YT - / @loiduongjr
IG - / loiduongjr
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We are team:
ROSE BLOC - www.rosebloc.com/
UNPARALLEL - www.unparallelsports.com/
CMC - coastmountaincollective.ca/
REHAB IN A PINCH - / rehabinapinch
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Link to our current program: surl.li/umycs
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Timestamps:
0:00 - Highlights!
0:52 - Jun 15, S1: Boulder (Bloc Shop)
12:03 - Jun 15, S2: Boulder (Bloc Shop)
14:30 - TOTD: Skipping tension moves
18:21 - Jun 15, S2: Boulder (Bloc Shop)
23:23 - Jun 16, S1: VLOG w Loi
24:26 - Jun 16, S2: Hangboard
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If you'd like to support our travel and training expenses, consider becoming a paid subscriber on our blog: surl.li/uheuh
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Supported by:
Climber’s Rock - climbersrock.com/
Clevo Climbing - clevo-climbing.com/en
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Affiliate link with CLEVO (Clevo door): clevo-climbing.com/en/product...
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Find us on:
IG - / richardsonsclimbing
Website - www.richardsonsclimbing.com/
Spotify - open.spotify.com/user/zachcr 
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![Megan Thee Stallion - Rattle [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qY6qwqVCsww/mqdefault.jpg)
Glad you are enjoying the process! As someone who doesn't really keep up with the comp scene (I barely keep up with IFSC) watching you compete is the cherry on top. By that I mean I know you are a competitive climber but, from my casual climber/youtube content consumer perspective, you are a good content creator focusing on competitive climbing. So when we get to see you/Maddie compete it becomes this more exciting event to look forward to that I otherwise wouldn't tune into because I want to see my favorite creators really pop off.
Nice that’s awesome to hear!! Yeah honestly sometimes I can’t tell whether I consider myself an athlete or a content creator first! It’s kind of a fun mindset to have!
Sheesh huge shout out. Canadian RUclips is in for a treat 🍬🍬🍬
😎🔥
I'm not crazy, that green 9 slab's start is nails. Did Maddie flash it? ^_^
Hoped to see you on the soccer ball's orange 10 to -steal- _share_ the end's beta.
Congrats on the double white tapes send!
Also, we haven't heard from the shoulder in a while. No news, good news?
Cheers, mate.
Haha yes it is!! 2nd try 😉
Oh true I was trying the red white tape for too long I didn’t get to try orange haha
Shoulder is all good now thankfully! No more residual pain!
its nice to see you go from being unmotivated training for competitions to enjoying the process! keep it up!
Very informative as always and just fun to watch some hard problems!
Cool to see that you have a very healthy attitude to your training. Of course this is easier to say when things turn out well - but at the same easier to not think about... The fact that you had fun and did the right training, would have also been true, if you did not make podium in the end. So competitions are only secondary in assessing your approach! Keep it up!
Yes exactly!!
Cool video, and it's very inspiring to see your attitude. I'm curious what are your highest flash grade on moonboard 2016 and the hardest route you climbed on it?
Thanks!
Haha it’s been a while since I’ve climbed on the 2016 so I don’t really remember my flash grade, probably around v9.
I know I’ve done a v11 on it!
@@richardsonsclimbingThanks for the answer 😊
One more question 🙃
Where do you think the grades softer/harder in Germany (Frankfurt for example) or in Canada (Montreal) overall?
I think the grades are pretty similar, but I would say Montreal has more hard boulders in general!
Great stuff! Could you do some more training videos with emphasis on stretching? You seem to be super flex. Thanks
Yep good idea!
Long story short is: I trained side splits for 3 reps, 1 minute per rep, 5 days a week, for 2 years, and went from no split at all to achieving the full splits!
@@richardsonsclimbing So simple and effective.. great, I will do it from now on. See you in two years!
Im curious what the size difference is between the cubits and solutions would you happen to know?
I wore size 40.5 EU Solutions and wear 8.5 US QuBits!
Speaking of sizing. Any tips for Unparallel sizing? Like what's your street shoe size vs current TN Pro size? (would love to transition from la sportiva to unparallel, but its quite hard to get ahold of a pair in Montreal)
Oh nice! Yeah so my TN size is 8.5 US, street shoe is 9.5 US, Sportiva size is 40.5 EU.
UP is also planning on doing some demos in MTL this summer if you want to hold out and play it extra safe!
Sir, for strength gain, do you recommend hanging on wider edge with heavier weight or narrower edge but lighter? Is this the same for maintenance? 🙏
I would recommend going as small as you can- until you reach 14mm (small beastmaker edge size). I find this edge is the perfect size for training a kind of crimp strength that can be applied to a wide variety of climbing!
Same for maintenance (just do less reps)
@@richardsonsclimbing Merci!
V2 in my gym…
(He made them look V1)