I've gotta 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with the inline-6 and 33s, and while it's lifted to about 3.5", the geometry is way off -I get the cursed bump-steer, even going over speed bumps. Since it's a project Jeep, I had my welder friend install DIY bumpers (and a winch), and I put on a roof cargo rack, so now, with stock coils, everything is completely mush! I decided to this thing right and also bought the Iron Rock Offroad 5.5" longarm kit with no shocks as I already had purchased new Bilsteins. I also ordered the steel fuel tank skid plate and Critical Path Subframe Assembly as well as their HD 5/8 over the knuckle steering kit -whew, I gotta lotta work ahead of me! I am wondering, should I begin this project by installing the front components or start with the rear items? Thanks, Tyler!
I would definitely start with the front so you don't have that bump steer anymore and it's the one that takes the longest period if you can do it all at once but it will be out of service for a while. also if you start with the rear, your front won't have enough caster because it's lifted up high in the rear and it will wander and drive terribly. the biggest thing with bump steer is you have to make sure your track bar and drag link are at the same angle. if you need to, get an adjustable track bar mount so you can get that geometry correct. also make sure your caster is correct so you don't get death wobble and it calls for a lot more caster than stock. definitely take your time on installing the kit and make sure you torque everything to spec! Good luck brotha and let me know how it goes. also let me know if you have any questions!
@@MountainRoadAdventure Cool, Thanks! Actually, the jeep has been out of service since I bought it in 2016. Long story short, I had it at two different fab mechanics homes, and they just sat on the lift project, and when I finally got it back, I discovered they botched the job; hence, the IRO kit I recently bought... I'm glad to know to start with the front, and the long arm kit I bought included both front and back adjustable track bars: Code 13980 ZJ 5.5" ROCK-LINK PRO Long Arm Lift Kit, so yeah, I've got everything I need to solve the bump steer, and for $2600 beans, it had better! Haha! I'll try to keep those angles (geometry) parallel with the drag link and track bar so that death wobble and b-steer don't creep in. Thanks again, Tyler, for all the help, and once my friend can get over here and help me with the build, I'll keep ya updated! Take care!
Thank You for the great content. QUESTION. Can I flat tow behind my motorhome ( 4 wheels on ground) a 96 ZJ with the 249 transfer case? I tested by putting transfer case in neutral and transmission in park and zj moves freely forward and reverse as I push it. Ssme thing happens if transfer case is in neutral and transmission in neutral, I wonder what's safer. Please someone with experience on this reply. I have a trip coming soon and need to know. For my towing points I'm good. Jeep has a heavy duty winch mount with d rings and it's sandwiched over the unibody frame.. (1996 5.2 V8 with full time 4wd 249 transfer case, automatic transmission)
I have the iron rock off-road rock link kit 5 and 1/2 in lift, Dana 30 up front, Dana 44a in the rear, 35 inch tires on 15-in wheels, mid-frame stiffeners. those are going to be really important. still slowly building the front bumper and will be building a rear bumper soon. I did a full video on my channel about my build so if you want to know a lot of the nitty-gritty, I would check that one out
Just starting my 1994 4.0l zj build. Just picked it up bone stock yesterday. What is your suspension set up? Stock axles? I'm thinking I want to run 33's and love the flex you have!
@@MountainRoadAdventure Awesome, I ended up finding a dana 60 front and sterling 10.5 for the rear. Going to run 35's for awhile (after the axle swap) and may end up with 37's or larger!
That articulation is crazy
Super-cool ZJ, Tyler! Thanks for the vid!
thank you! I really appreciate that
@@MountainRoadAdventurewhat size tires on the ZJ
@@tycollins-cl3ir Those are 35s. If you run 35s, you just cant beat it up cause the axles can barley handle it
Nice. The articulation on that looked great! 👍
thank you!
I’m so jealous I wish I had a ZJ! I have a 2010 KK Liberty with only all terrain tires
get one! side project lol
Classic trail.
Call it Johnny Bravo! Check the Flex!
Are you guys going down all the off shoots?
Yes, except one because there's a bunch of people sitting at the top of it blocking it
Did you disconnect the sway bar links?
I actually don't run swaybars at all. I used to have jks quick disconnect links
@@MountainRoadAdventure even on the highway you don’t have them?
yeah even on the freeway I don't have them. I've gotten so used to it it's not a big deal for me anymore
I probably wouldn't recommend it though
I've gotta 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with the inline-6 and 33s, and while it's lifted to about 3.5", the geometry is way off -I get the cursed bump-steer, even going over speed bumps. Since it's a project Jeep, I had my welder friend install DIY bumpers (and a winch), and I put on a roof cargo rack, so now, with stock coils, everything is completely mush! I decided to this thing right and also bought the Iron Rock Offroad 5.5" longarm kit with no shocks as I already had purchased new Bilsteins. I also ordered the steel fuel tank skid plate and Critical Path Subframe Assembly as well as their HD 5/8 over the knuckle steering kit -whew, I gotta lotta work ahead of me! I am wondering, should I begin this project by installing the front components or start with the rear items? Thanks, Tyler!
I would definitely start with the front so you don't have that bump steer anymore and it's the one that takes the longest period if you can do it all at once but it will be out of service for a while. also if you start with the rear, your front won't have enough caster because it's lifted up high in the rear and it will wander and drive terribly. the biggest thing with bump steer is you have to make sure your track bar and drag link are at the same angle. if you need to, get an adjustable track bar mount so you can get that geometry correct. also make sure your caster is correct so you don't get death wobble and it calls for a lot more caster than stock. definitely take your time on installing the kit and make sure you torque everything to spec! Good luck brotha and let me know how it goes. also let me know if you have any questions!
@@MountainRoadAdventure Cool, Thanks! Actually, the jeep has been out of service since I bought it in 2016. Long story short, I had it at two different fab mechanics homes, and they just sat on the lift project, and when I finally got it back, I discovered they botched the job; hence, the IRO kit I recently bought... I'm glad to know to start with the front, and the long arm kit I bought included both front and back adjustable track bars: Code 13980 ZJ 5.5" ROCK-LINK PRO Long Arm Lift Kit, so yeah, I've got everything I need to solve the bump steer, and for $2600 beans, it had better! Haha! I'll try to keep those angles (geometry) parallel with the drag link and track bar so that death wobble and b-steer don't creep in. Thanks again, Tyler, for all the help, and once my friend can get over here and help me with the build, I'll keep ya updated! Take care!
wow! time to get her out on the road and out on the trail again!
Is trail open or is closed due to fires?
it's open at the moment
Nice video. What exhaust is on the zj?
thank you! it's straight pipe from the cat
Thank You for the great content. QUESTION. Can I flat tow behind my motorhome ( 4 wheels on ground) a 96 ZJ with the 249 transfer case? I tested by putting transfer case in neutral and transmission in park and zj moves freely forward and reverse as I push it. Ssme thing happens if transfer case is in neutral and transmission in neutral, I wonder what's safer. Please someone with experience on this reply. I have a trip coming soon and need to know.
For my towing points I'm good. Jeep has a heavy duty winch mount with d rings and it's sandwiched over the unibody frame.. (1996 5.2 V8 with full time 4wd 249 transfer case, automatic transmission)
honestly. I'm not too sure. I don't know too much about that
Nice ZJ! What transfer case are you running?
I'm running a 231🤘🏻
Question, I’m bout to build a ZJ, what’s your specs?
I have the iron rock off-road rock link kit 5 and 1/2 in lift, Dana 30 up front, Dana 44a in the rear, 35 inch tires on 15-in wheels, mid-frame stiffeners. those are going to be really important. still slowly building the front bumper and will be building a rear bumper soon. I did a full video on my channel about my build so if you want to know a lot of the nitty-gritty, I would check that one out
Just starting my 1994 4.0l zj build. Just picked it up bone stock yesterday. What is your suspension set up? Stock axles? I'm thinking I want to run 33's and love the flex you have!
I have an iron rock off-road long arm kit, stock axles, just regeared to 4.56
@@MountainRoadAdventure how the axles holding up to the 35’s?
I haven't had a problem at all! and I kinda beat on them too
@@MountainRoadAdventure Awesome, I ended up finding a dana 60 front and sterling 10.5 for the rear. Going to run 35's for awhile (after the axle swap) and may end up with 37's or larger!
my goal is Dana 44s or something close
whats the wheel offset
roughly around zero offset with a 1.5-in wheel spacer
so much flex at @5:00
Nice ZJ! Mine is in the shop now getting a 7" lift, long arm kit and roll cage, what size lift and tires you running??
I'm on a 5.5 in long arm kit with 35s👍🏻
@@MountainRoadAdventure sweet wanting to order tires but wasn't sure if 35's would clear
there is a lot of trimming and clearing to fit them plus wheel spacers or wider axles. 1.5" worked for me
Are you locked?
yes I am in the rear. I have an Aussie locker
What lift kit are u running here brotha?? Zj looks too sick with all that flex 💪 OMG 😲
iron rock off-road rock link kit 5.5
nice , where in cali zis that place
Cleghorn trail!
@@MountainRoadAdventure california
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