Hi, Thank you for your answer and your video. I could fix my BMS board by replacing the 8 fuses (ITV5432L5030WR) Some description of my experience doing the fixing: I've ordered a hot air device from AliExpress (Bakon 858 at 50€). I could easily unsolder the 8 fuses without take care of the heat (I set it up to 350°c) because the components were already burnt. The nightmare has started at the time to solder the new components on the board. I did try to use the hot air device like you in the video. I've set up 180°c (below the max temperature given in the components spécification (max 200°c). At this point, I couldn't manage to solder it (not enough heat). I decided to increase the temperature to 200°, it didn't work too. I've tried 220 then 250 then 280° and I've burnt the component. I realized that the hot air solder is requiring a lot of experience by probably heating the surface and quickly lay down the component but I didn't have this dexterity. So I decided to solder the new components by using the traditional method (soldering iron). This hasn't been the solution too because the fuses (ITV5432) are soldered on a quite large surface which make it very difficult to heat, so I've had to push my soldering iron to 280°c (otherwise the welding doesn't melt). By doing that, I've damaged the case of each components (doesn't look nice) but each component seams to work fine after having test using a microcontroller (like in the video). I mounted the board back in the battery and it seems to work fine now. Of course, I need to test it for a longer period of time. In conclusion: the explanation that was given in video is definitely the solution, thank you a lot for that. But the fixing required knowledge about how to solder this kind of component and the fact that is it mounted on a large surface that makes it difficult to heat. I'm not happy at all with my ugly solderings and i won't be surprise if it break down again soon. Anyhow, thank you so much again.
I just have a couple of points to add. I believe you are not interpreting correctly the temperature graph in the datasheet. In the Littlefuse document the maximum 200C refers to the preheat temperature, as in the temperature the entire PCB area should be before you begin soldering the component. If you look at that table they have a "peak temperature" of 255C during 5 seconds, which is doable by hand with a good setup and a bit harder with crappy tools like we are using, hence the rapid cosmetic damage in some lower quality component packages like these fuses have. When soldering PCBs with thick traces and lots of via stitching like these you will have to preheat the PCB, otherwise it will be very hard. If you look closely at the video I had the PCB standing on a portable electric plate set to somewhere close to 150~200C. This will dramatically reduce the time needed with the hot air gun and reduce the thermal shock.
@@jfaria @jfaria oh ! Thank you for your remarks, now I better understand the process (I didn't realize that the pcb board was on heater plate !). So, the trick is to preheat, it makes sense. You can guess that I'm a beginner and thanks to you I'm learning fast. Now, I just have to wish that my PCB board break down again then it will allow me to practice 😂. Many thanks again
Muito fixe, realmente não há muitos videos. Poucos meses atrás a minha us3000c, ficou acender o alarm e depois nada. Tentei medir a tensão nos terminais e davam 0. Mandei para a garantia em espanha e mandaram uma nova.
I dont recomend Pylontech batteries, in two or tree years they will inflate. About Warranty The distributors reserve the right to give the guarantee and in practice they will not accept it even if in theory you have a 7-year guarantee, prismatic cells are better as you can always find spare parts since pylontech are special, they are 5s per module at least in the that i have.
Very good and helpful video, thanks. Which temperature of air flow do you set up ? It seems to be high but the component features is telling to not exceed 200°c
Hi, it was a bit too high, set to 350C, but it's a cheap station with a very small nozzzle, who knows how hot it really is. 200C it's pretty impossible to achieve, though, with most lead-free alloys needing more than 220C
@@jfariaHi, Thank you for your answer and your video. I could fix my BMS board by replacing the 8 fuses (ITV5432L5030WR) Some description of my experience doing the fixing: I've ordered a hot air device from AliExpress (Bakon 858 at 50€). I could easily unsolder the 8 fuses without take care of the heat (I set it up to 350°c) because the components were already burnt. The nightmare has started at the time to solder the new components on the board. I did try to use the hot air device like you in the video. I've set up 180°c (below the max temperature given in the components spécification (max 200°c). At this point, I couldn't manage to solder it (not enough heat). I decided to increase the temperature to 200°, it didn't work too. I've tried 220 then 250 then 280° and I've burnt the component. I realized that the hot air solder is requiring a lot of experience by probably heating the surface and quickly lay down the component but I didn't have this dexterity. So I decided to solder the new components by using the traditional method (soldering iron). This hasn't been the solution too because the fuses (ITV5432) are soldered on a quite large surface which make it very difficult to heat, so I've had to push my soldering iron to 280°c (otherwise the welding doesn't melt). By doing that, I've damaged the case of each components (doesn't look nice) but each component seams to work fine after having test using a microcontroller (like in the video). I mounted the board back in the battery and it seems to work fine now. Of course, I need to test it for a longer period of time. In conclusion: the explanation that was given in video is definitely the solution, thank you a lot for that. But the fixing required knowledge about how to solder this kind of component and the fact that is it mounted on a large surface that makes it difficult to heat. I'm not happy at all with my ugly solderings and i won't be surprise if it break down again soon. Anyhow, thank you so much again.
Good video thanks for this video. I have a question l have one us3000c and the BMS has failed. I want to change the BMS card . My question is after changing the BMS do l need to reset the serial number and AH capacity and SOC of the new BMS with usb diagnostic cable?
Good question, I haven't had much free time lately, but I have half a dozen swollen US2000 that I want to try and replace bad cells, I will try to see if there is an easy way to reset the BMS or change some of those parameters.
@@tujuprojects The guy who asked me to repair these had several failed units of different generations, my plan is to try and use one of them as a donor to fix the others. Unfortunately I've been busy and I didn't have time to do it yet, but I will document it when I get to it.
Hi. Thanks for the video. I have a battery with shorted mosfets causing an alarm. Do you have any tips as to what could catch me out when replacing the mosfets?
Never done that, but you might get away with just replacing one in each bank to test before you replace them all. Also check if the controller is also actively breaking the fuses like it did to me...
@@jfaria Thanks. I did a quick check and it seems the controller is also shorted and the 4 pin fuses you replaced. This seems like a totally common issue. What I do see is that the thermal layer skipped a few mosfets, the ones that are skipped have discolored. Must be due to heat. Not sure if this could be a factory fault on them. My battery is hooked up to a Sunsynk 5kw with a Can bus cable. Set to 50amp charge and discharge.
@@karlmuller4755 How many batteries do you have in parallel? I don't know what causes the failure in this video, but most of the failures I've seen on these (especially when they swell) were on off-grid/hybrid solar setups with too few batteries. I'm starting to believe that the long term reliability of these batteries starts to get spotty when people use less than 4 batteries (10kWh) in 5kW inverters, or less than 8 batteries on 10kW inverters.
@@jfaria Only one battery. But the system is used as a UPS for a server basically. The constant draw is around 300w. We have had a few spikes from the aircon etc. That would kick the inverter into alarm and protect the battery. As far as I can tell its over voltage causing the swelling. On another system I have 3 x us2000 batteries running for almost 6 years no swelling or any issues.
I dont recomend Pylontech batteries, in two or tree years they will inflate. About Warranty The distributors reserve the right to give the guarantee and in practice they will not accept it even if in theory you have a 7-year guarantee, prismatic cells are better as you can always find spare parts since pylontech are special, they are 5s per module at least in the that i have.
Great lesson about protection mechanisms of this batteries. Thank you
Great work mate, Big help on diagnosing faults on my batteries,
Hi,
Thank you for your answer and your video. I could fix my BMS board by replacing the 8 fuses (ITV5432L5030WR)
Some description of my experience doing the fixing:
I've ordered a hot air device from AliExpress (Bakon 858 at 50€). I could easily unsolder the 8 fuses without take care of the heat (I set it up to 350°c) because the components were already burnt.
The nightmare has started at the time to solder the new components on the board. I did try to use the hot air device like you in the video. I've set up 180°c (below the max temperature given in the components spécification (max 200°c). At this point, I couldn't manage to solder it (not enough heat). I decided to increase the temperature to 200°, it didn't work too. I've tried 220 then 250 then 280° and I've burnt the component. I realized that the hot air solder is requiring a lot of experience by probably heating the surface and quickly lay down the component but I didn't have this dexterity.
So I decided to solder the new components by using the traditional method (soldering iron). This hasn't been the solution too because the fuses (ITV5432) are soldered on a quite large surface which make it very difficult to heat, so I've had to push my soldering iron to 280°c (otherwise the welding doesn't melt). By doing that, I've damaged the case of each components (doesn't look nice) but each component seams to work fine after having test using a microcontroller (like in the video).
I mounted the board back in the battery and it seems to work fine now. Of course, I need to test it for a longer period of time.
In conclusion: the explanation that was given in video is definitely the solution, thank you a lot for that. But the fixing required knowledge about how to solder this kind of component and the fact that is it mounted on a large surface that makes it difficult to heat. I'm not happy at all with my ugly solderings and i won't be surprise if it break down again soon.
Anyhow, thank you so much again.
I just have a couple of points to add.
I believe you are not interpreting correctly the temperature graph in the datasheet. In the Littlefuse document the maximum 200C refers to the preheat temperature, as in the temperature the entire PCB area should be before you begin soldering the component. If you look at that table they have a "peak temperature" of 255C during 5 seconds, which is doable by hand with a good setup and a bit harder with crappy tools like we are using, hence the rapid cosmetic damage in some lower quality component packages like these fuses have.
When soldering PCBs with thick traces and lots of via stitching like these you will have to preheat the PCB, otherwise it will be very hard. If you look closely at the video I had the PCB standing on a portable electric plate set to somewhere close to 150~200C. This will dramatically reduce the time needed with the hot air gun and reduce the thermal shock.
@@jfaria
@jfaria oh ! Thank you for your remarks, now I better understand the process (I didn't realize that the pcb board was on heater plate !). So, the trick is to preheat, it makes sense. You can guess that I'm a beginner and thanks to you I'm learning fast. Now, I just have to wish that my PCB board break down again then it will allow me to practice 😂. Many thanks again
Muito fixe, realmente não há muitos videos.
Poucos meses atrás a minha us3000c, ficou acender o alarm e depois nada. Tentei medir a tensão nos terminais e davam 0.
Mandei para a garantia em espanha e mandaram uma nova.
I dont recomend Pylontech batteries, in two or tree years they will inflate. About Warranty The distributors reserve the right to give the guarantee and in practice they will not accept it even if in theory you have a 7-year guarantee, prismatic cells are better as you can always find spare parts since pylontech are special, they are 5s per module at least in the that i have.
@@practicasaw8581 yeah, that can be a issue real quick. I don't know what's readily available in terms of parts.
Hi loved the video helped me out so much. THANKYOU.
One question tho do you have a part number for the fet that was shorted ?
@@tonymaint Hi, the original was an IFR6215
molte grazie, ottimo lavoro 👍
Viva, gostei do video, claramente Tuga, tenho um multímetro igual, muito bom mesmo. Continua com o bom trabalho.
Very good and helpful video, thanks. Which temperature of air flow do you set up ? It seems to be high but the component features is telling to not exceed 200°c
Hi, it was a bit too high, set to 350C, but it's a cheap station with a very small nozzzle, who knows how hot it really is.
200C it's pretty impossible to achieve, though, with most lead-free alloys needing more than 220C
@@jfariaHi,
Thank you for your answer and your video. I could fix my BMS board by replacing the 8 fuses (ITV5432L5030WR)
Some description of my experience doing the fixing:
I've ordered a hot air device from AliExpress (Bakon 858 at 50€). I could easily unsolder the 8 fuses without take care of the heat (I set it up to 350°c) because the components were already burnt.
The nightmare has started at the time to solder the new components on the board. I did try to use the hot air device like you in the video. I've set up 180°c (below the max temperature given in the components spécification (max 200°c). At this point, I couldn't manage to solder it (not enough heat). I decided to increase the temperature to 200°, it didn't work too. I've tried 220 then 250 then 280° and I've burnt the component. I realized that the hot air solder is requiring a lot of experience by probably heating the surface and quickly lay down the component but I didn't have this dexterity.
So I decided to solder the new components by using the traditional method (soldering iron). This hasn't been the solution too because the fuses (ITV5432) are soldered on a quite large surface which make it very difficult to heat, so I've had to push my soldering iron to 280°c (otherwise the welding doesn't melt). By doing that, I've damaged the case of each components (doesn't look nice) but each component seams to work fine after having test using a microcontroller (like in the video).
I mounted the board back in the battery and it seems to work fine now. Of course, I need to test it for a longer period of time.
In conclusion: the explanation that was given in video is definitely the solution, thank you a lot for that. But the fixing required knowledge about how to solder this kind of component and the fact that is it mounted on a large surface that makes it difficult to heat. I'm not happy at all with my ugly solderings and i won't be surprise if it break down again soon.
Anyhow, thank you so much again.
Good video thanks for this video. I have a question l have one us3000c and the BMS has failed. I want to change the BMS card . My question is after changing the BMS do l need to reset the serial number and AH capacity and SOC of the new BMS with usb diagnostic cable?
Good question, I haven't had much free time lately, but I have half a dozen swollen US2000 that I want to try and replace bad cells, I will try to see if there is an easy way to reset the BMS or change some of those parameters.
@@jfariawhere do you get those cells?
@@tujuprojects The guy who asked me to repair these had several failed units of different generations, my plan is to try and use one of them as a donor to fix the others. Unfortunately I've been busy and I didn't have time to do it yet, but I will document it when I get to it.
@@jfaria okay, it maybe those can be bought from china as new.
Hi. Thanks for the video. I have a battery with shorted mosfets causing an alarm. Do you have any tips as to what could catch me out when replacing the mosfets?
Never done that, but you might get away with just replacing one in each bank to test before you replace them all. Also check if the controller is also actively breaking the fuses like it did to me...
@@jfaria Thanks. I did a quick check and it seems the controller is also shorted and the 4 pin fuses you replaced. This seems like a totally common issue. What I do see is that the thermal layer skipped a few mosfets, the ones that are skipped have discolored. Must be due to heat. Not sure if this could be a factory fault on them.
My battery is hooked up to a Sunsynk 5kw with a Can bus cable. Set to 50amp charge and discharge.
@@karlmuller4755 How many batteries do you have in parallel? I don't know what causes the failure in this video, but most of the failures I've seen on these (especially when they swell) were on off-grid/hybrid solar setups with too few batteries. I'm starting to believe that the long term reliability of these batteries starts to get spotty when people use less than 4 batteries (10kWh) in 5kW inverters, or less than 8 batteries on 10kW inverters.
@@jfaria Only one battery. But the system is used as a UPS for a server basically. The constant draw is around 300w. We have had a few spikes from the aircon etc. That would kick the inverter into alarm and protect the battery. As far as I can tell its over voltage causing the swelling.
On another system I have 3 x us2000 batteries running for almost 6 years no swelling or any issues.
I dont recomend Pylontech batteries, in two or tree years they will inflate. About Warranty The distributors reserve the right to give the guarantee and in practice they will not accept it even if in theory you have a 7-year guarantee, prismatic cells are better as you can always find spare parts since pylontech are special, they are 5s per module at least in the that i have.
Here the PCB board of an US5000 is replaced under warranty.
🤭 promo sm