The Top 5 Most OVERPRICED Mopar Parts You Find At A Swap Meet!
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- Опубликовано: 20 июл 2024
- In this video we show you 5 of the most overpriced Mopar parts you will see at a swap meet. Swap meets are our happy place, love shopping, finding deals, and finding rare parts so have a lot of experience with prices. A lot of experience has shown us what at a swap meet is normally overpriced compared to what you see online. Going to go a top 5 most underpriced parts tomorrow and hope you watch!
Covers the 426 Hemi intake, 1964-66 Plymouth Cuda rear windows, 1971 Dodge Challenger tail light panel, long ram intakes, and points distributors. 
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Tom, talk about calling the kettle black I've seen the prices you charge as if they were made of gold.
A lot of the stuff on eBay we do best offer on and it sells for a lot less than the ask.
Points plugs i started on them back in the late 1970s you could set all the gaps with a paper match pack and use the striker portion to file the points. Never had an issue
You could get decent parts then
Lmfao my parts aren't that good anymore
@@davestark2015 that’s what she said!
I didn't realize they made that many hemi blocks in 66 compared to the later years. Awesome info. Thank you.
The street hemi didn’t do nearly as well as Chrysler thought it would in 66.
NASCAR Homologation rules.
Everything is over priced
It isn’t 1995 anymore
You got that right, everything is overpriced
Yeah, I can see why things can be overpriced. Just look at these new cars. They have no uniqueness to them, which makes me want to keep the old stuff I have that have. That have style and class and uniqueness.
What goes up , must come down. Next car show you go to, look at the age of the participants. Just like the cars and parts for the 30's 40's and 50's cars.
That's why no young bloods are getting into old American muscle . LS swaps into GM G cars. $1000.00 junkyard 5.3 out of a pickup computer and all.
I’m rebuilding a 1971 Barracuda (not Cuda). It came with a non-matching 318 & 904. She required a complete strip down and put together.
- Since she’s a 318, I have no problems with using quality after market parts.
A whole let cheaper than paying Mopar Parts prices to the hoarders.
- oh, on a happy note, during an Air Force TDY (business trip) to Mother Boeing in Seattle, I was able to visit Mr Ben Snobar. What a wonderful man! He allowed me to look around his building full of Mooar parts and walk around his property to look at his cars. We had a wonderful afternoon together. I purchased four side markers from him at a really good price. Maybe because I showed up in uniform. Either way, he was great and, again, had a great time with him!
Ben was an interesting dude. Funny just saw in my Facebook feed today is the 7th anniversary of the auction to sell off all his stuff.
Thanks for the history lesson. It is amazing how you can keep all these facts straight.
A lot of stuff rolls around up top
Re old points distributors and vacuum advance, they aren't worth using with points because the point cam lobes wear down.
This is why there's all these problems with them.
You might think the wear can be adjusted out, which it can to a point. If the wear goes beyond a certain point however, as the vac cannister pulls the breaker plate during cruise what happens is the point gap goes very close to closing because the breaker plate rotates on an arc that is offset to the distributor shaft.
When the lobes are in good condition, the slight closing of the points is irrelevant at light load cruise, but when worn the car can misfire and cut out and as soon as you floor it miraculously come back to life.
This happened to me on a 383 point distributor, so I went looking through my parts, and eventually found a 440 distributor, swapped in the top part of the distributor shaft and it was almost the same.
They're just not worth mucking around with.
As you say the points just don't adjust within spec and the worn lobes are the primary reason for it.
Yep
One thing about the long rams. There is not a single set of the exhaust manifolds for sale. The only way to buy one would be to buy a 80 thousand dollar letter series car.
You need the exhaust manifolds to support the weight, or the intakes will crack in short order. I used to see guys put them in cars without the manifolds. They claimed there is no problem, but, when pressed, admitted that the car is just moved on a trailer, not actually driven. Smarter guys rig up some kind of angle iron to provide support, though, obviously that does not solve the warm up problem.
Also, the manifolds hit the fenders of any car 1965 and newer.
Those manifolds are gold.
I wonder why that is Tom.. you tend to demand premium prices for your parts. You are talking about what you will pay, not what you sell them for...
Not true at all, I went through every part on these lists and said what I buy them for and what I usually sell them for.
@@rocketresto Ok, I will take you at your word. I would add that there are lots of things that could be added to the over priced category such as 71 Charger RT taillights which seemed to be made of gold.
Rocket Man... Burning out that fuse up there alone.
As a lot of people have said, these parts and the cars that use them will drop. Just like Cords and other 30's cars dropped. 40 years ago they said a 50's Nomad would be 2 million dollars by the year 2000. That did not happen but Cudas hit 2 million.
Almost every one driving a vintage muscle car is over 65 and some will pass away and others will go to senior housing where they have no room for most of their cars. Most people under 30 aren't interested in vintage cars and many aren't interested in cars at all.
Will be interesting to see what happens. Pretty much every swap we go to now has a big pile of parts from the estate of a letter car guy.
That's right, walk around any car show, look at the age group. A lot of these parts will be sitting in garages, worthless.
@@auteurfiddler8706 they won’t live vacation time around big shows waste of fuel for 4 hour joy rides
Great video Tom! Im 28 and I prefer carburetors over fuel injection and I’m happy with the factory mopar electronic ignition. It’s a lot simpler and easier to work on than all of this computerized modern stuff.
With you on that.
Thanks Tom. Great info.
Thanks for watching
6al MSD fired by points will eliminate points burning by dropping the current across points to a few hundred miliamps vs. several amps in stock ignition
And there are cheap systems that provide the same advantages. Mallory Hyfire original did it for me. It was like a miracle.
If ya don’t have a Jamie…. Lmao great vid Tom.
I recommend finding one
These parts easier to find today but the younger kids have no interest in these motors or 18 foot land barges
Have met a few young people into these but they seem to want different stuff than older people.
Great video Tom, and I know it goes without saying but for those youngsters out there, let the buyer beware. Good job Sir.
Of course
When I restored my 69 383S lots of parts were overpriced! But there are a few that I will not complain about. Replacement wiring Harness's from M&H, And a brand new Radiator from Glen Rays even though it was for a 68 "May have got the last 033". Two very important Items for a reliable car! I wanted no electrical issues and great cooling! Put all the Factory original type
parts back in and Wala this is what I have! Some items are not worth pinching on, JMO!
Everything big block A-Body had a “tax” on it.
First time watching your videos I'm a big fan of nicks garage because he is a mopar God. I am a chevy guy but I'm just a car guy .I am going to subscribe your knowledge is aweso.e and that's what I like
Same here, Nick had a J and had to rebuild the engine and explained the Cross Ram , learned a lot , but you filled in the gaps. Subbed.
Appreciate the sub! Funny thing about the J that Nick worked on is it was here before, my brother sold it to the guy who had Nick work on it.
Hey Tom-Great video, thanks for sharing! I was actually surprised to hear the information on 71’ challengers…not so much about the rear panel displayed but information about the RT stuff that wasn’t available. I have a 71’ challenger (original 383/4barrel car) that was basically a “sleeper”-(rally gauges, slapstick, suregrip, RT-options but modest dressings-flat hood, no callout badging) I didn’t realize that none of the higher option stuff was available that year; kinda strange.
Question…Is there any chance you have a rear glass for a 66’ Sport Fury? We had a tornado come through a month ago and it got both my windshield and rear glass. I know the windshields are available but I have not found any sources for the rear glass if it is being reproduced. I’m near Tulsa so I know it would be an expensive piece to ship but I also know you guys have love for C body’s and figured you would be a good place to ask. Thanks,
Ryan
Yes you could get the 383-4 and have seen some “kinda Rt” 71 Challengers cool car.
What roofline if your 66? I have a 68 notchback coupe here but not sure if it’s different and shipping would be hard.
@@rocketresto I’ll try to send you an email with a picture. It’s a 2 door hardtop much like the Belvedere
I remember a young guy in my home town who's parent's money bought him a new 1965 Plymouth Sport Fury with a 426 Hemi. He seemed to have many small issues with the engine-- it was very finicky. I don't recall any other 426 Hemis in town- the Mopar guys had either 383's or 440's
Detuned race motors don’t usually do well on the street.
@@rocketresto Tuning, huh? Thanks for the info. That Sport Fury was such a beauty - Red with ... I'm thinking red & white interior...
It likely was a 426 but not a Hemi. No C body came with a Hemi. Perhaps he had a 64 Sport Fury. That was a B body.
www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/dealerships/SalesmansPocketGuides/1965/65_Fry_2.jpg
Great subject Tom...I would add B body seats to the overpriced list..bench and bucket !
That’s a good one!
As a Chevy guy restoring his first Plymouth i can say everything Mopar is over priced and yes those 69 Barracuda plastic headlight bezels are 600.00 plus for NOS if you can find them or primo used. Plastic grills , tail light's, tail panels, dash panels. solid steel front fenders etc. has whip lashed my wallet and is still going strong to date.
We’re all going to get rich selling muscle cars (and parts) to each other.
Wish I could post the Scrooge McDuck diving into his vault of money gif here.
Every shop & parts store should have a Jamie. :)
I highly recommend finding one.
@@rocketresto just not yours. He’s taken.
Hi there! Thanks for the info! What is your take on the hyper pack manifold for the slant 6?
Love those intakes, have to be careful to over carb the motor but they look fantastic! They tend to be about the right price when I see them for sale swap vs online.
YOu made me sad a bit about the '71 Challenger tail panel. Every one I've seen at a swap meet has been in two pieces, usually broken apart rather than cleanly separated. Mine is well weathered but complete, but unless a nice shiny complete one shows up at a swap meet I'm going to have to refurb it.
Looking forward to the most expensive/best value video... when I started buying still available parts from the dealer back in the early '80s maybe I managed to win a little lottery ticket (probably not though) ;)
The long ram has the "sexy induction"tax lol.
It does look good
You and Jamie do a really great job, love the channel's ...Mopar or no damn car 👍👍👍👍👍✅✅✅✅✅
Thanks!
Very cool history lesson 🙌
Thanks!
I am not really a MoPar guy “by nature” but always wanted and finally (as in 35 years later) purchased a first generation Barracuda. I doubt I will own another; not because I don’t like others but with budget and storage space constraints, I have to “chose my battles” carefully! I would generally say that most parts common parts for it are reasonably priced (given the current economic conditions we live in), with the exceptions being things like plastic tail light and backup light lens and the chrome surrounds they reside in, and the as already mentioned headlight bezels. The one area that seems overpriced to me are the interior parts: $1000 for a full set of seat covers, another $800-1000 for door panels, armrest are not cheap, carpet sets are not cheap but probably not horrible given the acreage they have to cover. I understand some of it (supply and demand) but looking at the same parts prices for a ‘64-‘66 Mustang sure can make a guy’s heart sink! I do see quite a few parts I need that I don’t go after just because they are overpriced and the sellers are convinced they have something much rarer than they actually are! Yeah, sometimes I am willing to pay a few extra buck for something just out of convenience (I am standing in front of it, I need it, and don’t want to waste more time and gasoline just to save a few bucks). But some of the parts I need are just not high demand items. Example, I need the fold down back section of the rear seat and the “towel bar” seat release and I am just not willing to overpay for one when I know some patience will yield one at a price I can feel good about … and that I don’t have to pay to ship. 👍 on the “top ten” list videos for me! Being a noob and not really active within MoPar circles, it is good to know how the parts market is moving, what to expect to find, and what to expect to pay.
Personally, I think EVERYTHING is overpriced these days.... especially almost anything Mopar-related. It's even spilled over into the AMC world where Rebel Machines, AMX's and even the later-shape Javelins are topping 50-grand. Or when people (who have no idea what it takes to restore a car) offer up a vehicle that has absolutely ZERO aftermarket support, and they will try to sell it at restored-car prices all the time crowing about "how easy it would be to fix!". You just need a welder, several years of welding practise, a frame jig, a sheet metal brake, several english wheels, a computer -aided Plasma cutter, and a crew of at least 10 men of virtual true. SO EASY!
AMC’s are really tough to restore.
Well done!
Thanks!
Did you get to buy the small block six pack intake at the estate sale in Montana? Complete setups are sometimes way overpriced. Jamie was looking for one sometime back.
Got the Hemi 6 pack intake not the small block one.
I've found that 1 year only, really drives up the price. My '57 D100, is basically unchanged from previous models. But the front clip is '57 specific. Decent front trim and headlight buckets hard to find. I've had this truck since the early 80's, and Ive been told the wrap around rear window is hard to replace. "80 Powerwagon grill. Quad headlights. Mine has a bad crease on the drivers side. And snap on buttons for an old style weather front. I picked up a '76-'78 in very good condition for a $100. Quad headlamp they want $800 or more.
Those tin grills are getting spendy.
Can you make a video on overpriced cars mostly for the oldies there are a few cars around me that I think that are overpriced for what needs to be done to get them running for an example $10,000 for a Buick Skylark no engine no wheels no interior and is covered in rust as If it was in a field for so long
You forgot to mention a833s especially the early 65 ones and the overdrive transmissions. Lately I see people asking $500-600 I’ve routinely bought OD trans for $150 ish
That’s a really good one, ball and trunion’s are basically worthless.
68 Dart GTS center grill piece. Unbelievable! Should have never sold mine.
Good one!
I believe there was Hemi blocks cast on February 8 67, and many casting dates in late 66, which would have been destined for 67 model year cars.
Seen some late 1967 ones before (so 1968 model year) haven’t seen one that early would be curious to see pics of it.
@rocketresto Hi Tom. I’ve compiled a list of every Hemi block casting date I come across, either from online photos or from my own travels. It’s the dates I collected, but I never collected photos, and I can’t say if the February date is something I saw first hand or online. It’s been a long while since I’ve found a date to add to my list.
@@jamesblair9614 Appreciate the info.
Cool video , not asking price but how rare is 72 440ci w/ 6-barrel complete ?
An original one? Think they only made 3 v code 72’s so VERY rare if that really what it is.
@@rocketresto ty Tom.
Dual points, like on a 69 GTX with the Track Pac were great. I mean 100-200 dollar great. Not (ROFL) 750 dollar great. You got a better spark because you get a longer dwell.
Top 5 classic Mopars you can still afford to buy and drive. Bonus if 4 of the 5 are not A bodies. AMC and Jeed would also be acceptable.
Top 5 mods to make your classic Mopar a better daily driver.
Side note: I really want to replace my winter beater Imprezza with an AMC Eagle.
Those eagles are neat
Hello, I want a hood molding for my 67 satellite that is in like new condition. Do you have any for sale? I may have a friend going to Chryslers at Carlisle. Are you going?
We are west coast so little too far for us to go. Try Vanessa at Five Points Parts she is a great resource for hard to find parts.
"If you dont have a Jamie" LOL
I highly recommend finding one.
@@rocketresto luckily I am a lesser Jamie but I lean more towards trucks. Or should I say I am the jamie of my friends I suppose.
Hemis didn't sell very well because they were different. Regular car buyers, even people who wanted big power wanted nothing to do with hemis because they did not understand them. They thought they would cost more over the long run to maintain and would be difficult to work on. The old reliable 440 was usually the choice.
Heard a lot of stories of dealers talking buyers out of them, they didn’t want to get stuck with them if the buyer backed out.
Anything and everything Australian Chrysler is going through a grossly overpriced phase. I'm thinking of getting rid of all mine, and getting an old Holden, which used to be the big dollar item.
Would love to play with some of that stuff.
You forgot the '66-'67 Charger back tail light configuration and front grill with the matching hide away headlights.
The grill stuff is basically worthless other than the motors, good one.
@@rocketresto It's the tail lights that are hard to find. Especially nice original ones. I own one!
@@rocketresto Since I just paid $150 to refurbish my front grill fratzog emblem I'd have to disagree.
You got that right look at e bay nos stuff
Ya NOS can get a little pricey.
Project cars are overpriced. Can't find a decent car for under $1500 bucks these days. Nowadays ppl will ask 10K for a rustbucket.
Just sold two 65 Barracudas for $500 each, they are out there.
I am confused. There were 71 Challeger R/T's 383, 440 six pac, 426 Hemi. Hard tops, not converts.
Correct, saying no RT convertibles.
So, for people who want to run points, are NOS point sets or even aftermarket point sets made many years ago worth much?
NAPA Echlin brand points are _supposed_ to still be decent. I've paid about $10/set for older Standard brand Blue Streak Lubripoints (they have a wick that puts lube on the distributor cam) because thats what I used on my '71 back in the early '80s with excellent results and service life. Ditto condensers; the current production ones are crap so look for old stock Echlin, Standard, Blue Streak, etc
I have found that with the high prices and low quality of the points and condensers being made lately plus the inconvenience of their failures and having to replace them, occasionally file them, and set them, it doesn’t take long for the cost of Pertronix and a high fire coil to be cheaper in the long run than fussing with points! In once case, installing Pertronix in one of my cars solved some occasional hot weather idle and stalling problems I had literally been fighting for 20 years! To me, Pertronix is the antique car equivalent to sliced bread!
@@brianandrews7099a massive solar flare could fry the Pertronix. The points car would still run.
@@brianandrews7099 I actually purchased the Direct Connection electronic conversion kit back then (1982 or so) and ran it until I stopped driving the car a couple years later. It ran fine, never any problems during that period. But I'm thinking about putting the original points distributor back in when I get the car working again, testing out Jamie (and Uncle Tony's) theories.
Points makes it more of a challenge.
Nothing wrong with a humble brag at all.
That distributor was not a 340. It was big block for sure.
Jamie is gonna want a raise if you keep vaunting him...
Sssshhhhhh!!! Youre seeing through my plan! Don’t want him to become and RUclips millionaire, get a big head and leave me!
Find me a fan shroud, A FAN SHROUD, that isn't $150. It's ridiculous. I could go on.
Depends on which one but ya. Most of the repos are $150 but at least they are making them.
Small displacement first gen Dodge & Desoto Hemi prices are ridiculous.
Parts are really bad
I need a 64 Dodge Dart 270 tail light lens check that price
Try contacting Vanessa at Five Points Parts
The most overpriced mopars ..
1. All
2. of
3 .them
4. especially
5. Forward look
🤨
OEM shakers were 10k 15 years ago.
Especially the challenger ones before the repos came out.
I've got a couple of 19667 2 door Monaco's that I'm parting out although I;d rather sell them complete. Both 500 hundreds with one being a counsel shit with buckets the other a much plainer bench model. Message me if your interested. Informative video.
Where are you located? Hard to ship a parts car, buckets and console are rare on that car.
Face it just about anything from the mopar years back then is way over priced. But try to find something. Like my '60 Fury, fender emblems don't exist. My '79 Lil Red Express a used grill folks want like $1,000.00 for it. Ok you can get re-pops for the like 67-71 stuff. But the forward look era cars nothing. Heck LMC has realized dodge truck owners are out there and they got bumpers and the fuel tank sending unit, which no one made.
Huge market for the Dodge trucks glad somebody finally woke up and figured that out. Vans auto is making a lot of the stuff too.
There is a reason why they quit making all this crazy stuff most of it don’t work
A lot of times it was more cost of making it than anything else.
the long rams are tough to tune id run em on my nostalgia car but they are way over priced i can make an aftermarket cross ram run much better. for the money they are way overpriced for what they bring! might pay 400 for them but never 1500.00 !
Think cross rams are more for show.
@@rocketresto cross ram ran over a full second quicker than my long horn so im not so sure about that .
hi tom i like you better then jamie those parts are a lot of money better to go to a swap meet k.
Jamie is great, he’s much better on camera than me! Appreciate the comment.
I will agree with you, I have seen people who have paid thousands for them and I have also seen people who have jacked the car up wrong and either pop them loose or break them.
Yep
Engine cores for rebuilding.
It blows me away that people are paying $1200-1500 or more for low compression RV 440s that are usually missing parts.
383s. Unless you are selling a factory 4bbl magnum/SuperCommando type 383, you don't have anything special. There is more power potential in a 400, so if you are rebuilding, I wouldn't bother with a 383.
413 Industrial/RV/Truck motors. They have oddball heads/water pump configuration that are worthless and unusable in any other application. Low compression pistons with very few options for replacement and none that are cheap. You are basically selling a block, crank, rods, and whatever other doodads you can salvage like the oil pan and valve and timing chain covers. They aren't worth $800, Hoss.
Rant over.
Right on all points.
Just get a used 5.0 coyote mustang n beat so called engine builders on RUclips lol. But if justmoparjoe pulls up on you just make a left turn n avoid him.
He does look fast
Joe has a fantastic channel
basically too basic of a basically too basic video
So you basically liked it?
(1) There's a SUCKER born every minute...
(2) Most of these parts are "unicorns". This video was useless to the majority of Mopar enthusiasts.
If you can't find the sucker at the table it's you.
The problem with points from the parts stores today are most of the parts store sell the cheap ones which are junk there is a better brand I believe it's Blue streak but I'm not 100% sure we got an old Ford tractor what is 8N that uses points you put them cheap ones in there two or three weeks later
Ya think from Napa, they are better but still had issues.
Most are made of Chinesium these days
I was told that the short rams are the hard ones to find I had to set of long Rams 30 years ago I think I sold them for 20 bucks but that's all I had was the manifolds I didn't have no hardware
Yep short rams are WAY harder to find. Long rams are everywhere.
Parts are always worth what the buyer willing to pay
Yes and we are just trying to show people some of the some people aren’t willing to pay.
Watch those Pertronic conversions!!
Have had mixed luck it’s them as well.