Your videos are always a treat! Would you consider making a "Basics" series? I know nothing about forging armor, and the way the metal moves and takes shape under the hammer is a sight to behold, but to understand how you make it move would be even better. Stuff like how to make a convex and concave shape, order of operations etc.
Masterful, and the end result is stunning!! I love your work, as always, but I'm even more impressed that it's in aluminum - it can be so unforgiving in a lot of ways, especially in terms of surface finish after hammering, and it really shows how very skillful you are. Color me impressed!! Just out of curiosity, what alloy of aluminum are you using for this? And how thick were the greaves at the end, versus the 2.3mm you started with?
I always wondered if they made the armorors have their shops at the far side of town with the tanners and other shops that would be unpleasant to live next to, hah.
I noticed that too! I have a guess as to why! I don't actually know how it behaves at this thickness, or at this scale, but for thinner sheet aluminum in smaller applications (say, making plate armor but tiny - for a stuffed animal, let's say) the aluminum tends to bruise and dent pretty badly under any steel-faced hammer. I think it's to do with the difference in hardness, because steel hammers on steel sheet doesn't do it so badly, nor do steel hammers on brass, silver, or copper, but since aluminum is SO much softer, it does. But it makes it a royal pain to work aluminum this way (at least, for an amateur like me), because it's nearly impossible to avoid, and almost as hard to get rid of it. That's why for aluminum, I usually use a nylon-faced jewelry hammer, rather than a steel one - but I don't know how feasible that is for human-scale armor. Getting it smooth, even after planishing, is still a big task with a nylon-faced hammer, but with a steel one, I've had even less luck, and I think it would probably mean taking a lot of material off the surface, just to get rid of the bruising. Which, at this thickness, is totally doable, but is a bit much at 0.6mm (which is what I usually use). But I'm guessing that what we're seeing as trying not to hit it too hard is to mitigate how much it bruises (which I assume is way easier for someone of this skill level, as opposed to my clumsy ass), to preserve more of the material thickness and uniformity against that bruising, and against removing material in the end. I'd be really intrigued to know how thick the final piece is, versus the 2.3mm at the beginning!! I could be totally wrong, though - I have zero expertise on any of this. I'd love to hear what the master himself says about it!
@@austinvanfleet3849 thanks for your answer, that explains a lot and gives me plenty to think about. Perhaps do like the French did in the 1500s (apparently) and use a wheeling machine for planishing and final smoothing? I guess one would have to have some pretty small wheels for making greaves but it might allow a smith to get the thicknesses required...
Always love watching your work, and in absolutely jealousy of your shop. Do you know any details of the large T stake you use, or is it a custom? I have never seen another like it and it looks fantastic for so much armour work.
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Been following since almost the channel started and I never get tired from watching work that steel, every video is a treat
Excellent film my friend. It’s good to see your videos pop up again. Keep up the amazing work.
That hammer makes it that MUCH easier - I've been doing it "wrong" (the hard way) with a round one for so long...
Stunning creation
Your videos are always a treat!
Would you consider making a "Basics" series? I know nothing about forging armor, and the way the metal moves and takes shape under the hammer is a sight to behold, but to understand how you make it move would be even better. Stuff like how to make a convex and concave shape, order of operations etc.
Amazing. How in the world you managed that with aluminum I'll never know. I watched it and it is still sorcery.
Always great to see a video from you! Thanks for sharing..👍🏽
Probably the most difficult armor piece to make, after the helmet.
just a front grieve is not that hard, but fully cased grieves I would put in solid 3rd place, after helmet and gauntlets.
Nice ! i wonder how good aluminium would be for protection if it's a bit thicker 🤔
Will this method also work in black steel? WOOW ! Nice Work !
Masterful, and the end result is stunning!! I love your work, as always, but I'm even more impressed that it's in aluminum - it can be so unforgiving in a lot of ways, especially in terms of surface finish after hammering, and it really shows how very skillful you are. Color me impressed!!
Just out of curiosity, what alloy of aluminum are you using for this? And how thick were the greaves at the end, versus the 2.3mm you started with?
Beautiful work, sir.
Greetings from Croatia !!!!
Nice work Man.
I always wondered if they made the armorors have their shops at the far side of town with the tanners and other shops that would be unpleasant to live next to, hah.
Very nice. That aluminium moves a bit easier than steel, at points it looks like you were trying not to hit it too hard 😊
I noticed that too! I have a guess as to why!
I don't actually know how it behaves at this thickness, or at this scale, but for thinner sheet aluminum in smaller applications (say, making plate armor but tiny - for a stuffed animal, let's say) the aluminum tends to bruise and dent pretty badly under any steel-faced hammer. I think it's to do with the difference in hardness, because steel hammers on steel sheet doesn't do it so badly, nor do steel hammers on brass, silver, or copper, but since aluminum is SO much softer, it does. But it makes it a royal pain to work aluminum this way (at least, for an amateur like me), because it's nearly impossible to avoid, and almost as hard to get rid of it. That's why for aluminum, I usually use a nylon-faced jewelry hammer, rather than a steel one - but I don't know how feasible that is for human-scale armor.
Getting it smooth, even after planishing, is still a big task with a nylon-faced hammer, but with a steel one, I've had even less luck, and I think it would probably mean taking a lot of material off the surface, just to get rid of the bruising. Which, at this thickness, is totally doable, but is a bit much at 0.6mm (which is what I usually use). But I'm guessing that what we're seeing as trying not to hit it too hard is to mitigate how much it bruises (which I assume is way easier for someone of this skill level, as opposed to my clumsy ass), to preserve more of the material thickness and uniformity against that bruising, and against removing material in the end. I'd be really intrigued to know how thick the final piece is, versus the 2.3mm at the beginning!!
I could be totally wrong, though - I have zero expertise on any of this. I'd love to hear what the master himself says about it!
@@austinvanfleet3849 thanks for your answer, that explains a lot and gives me plenty to think about. Perhaps do like the French did in the 1500s (apparently) and use a wheeling machine for planishing and final smoothing? I guess one would have to have some pretty small wheels for making greaves but it might allow a smith to get the thicknesses required...
Always love watching your work, and in absolutely jealousy of your shop. Do you know any details of the large T stake you use, or is it a custom? I have never seen another like it and it looks fantastic for so much armour work.
I had the t stake cut out of a 2 and a half thick plate and then grind the work surfaces.
@@ArmureDube thank you for that information! I can now stop looking on Ebay and start talking to my local steel supplier.
@@kindyrpenumbra7170 👍
What material you use?
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1 июл. 2024 г.
The making of half greaves in aluminium plate 2,3 mm thick for larp
Отличная работа. Для меня голени делать - самая неприятная часть работы, попробую делать как вы))