Wiring the INKBIRD ITC106 VH PID controller
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- This video describes the Inkbird ITC 106VH PID and how to wire it for your system. There are many ways to wire these since they have many different function. This is the most basic method and will provide instant results right out of the box. No need to install this is a box, you can mount it on a board where it is easy to manipulate or change out components.
"Never take a sleeping pill and a laxative at the same time"
I'm so glad you're back George!
Hi George, wiring videos are usefull and I thank you for that; To push the thing a bit further, you could make a video on how to add a led (to visualize when power is sent to the heater), or an ampmeter to make sure the resistance is not broken, or an alarm... All these extra elements, which improve the use of temp controller. Greetings from France ;)
George ,Three days ago I finally gathered all the pieces to assemble my control box , I tuned in "Barley and Hops" to refresh myself ,Low and behold hears George with a new video.,instructing me through my endeavor.THANKS GEORGE .Your videos have changed my life.
George , may ITC 106VH run a contractor instead of ssr ? Mnual says that 106vh has ac output 110-240v , my contactor runs from ac110. Look's like gonna work ?
I'm confused because it also tells that output polarity important.. but if it AC control output.. ?
I HAVE USED YOUR VIDEO / KNOWLEDGE TO CONVERT MY MANUAL SMOKER TO A PID CONTROLLED SMOKER. IT WORKS GREAT EXCEPT ONE PROBLEM.THE SMOKER / HEATING ELEMENT HEATS TO THE SET VALUE ON INITIAL HEAT UP BUT AS IT STARTS TO COOL, IT DROPS TO ABOUT 25-30 DEGREES F AND WILL NEVER GET CLOSER THAN 20-25 DEGREES OF SET POINT. ANY THOUGHTS WHY THIS IS OCCURRING?
Hi sir, I trying to conect two 1500 watts 125V broil elements in double receptacle in a 40amp 106ITC VHpid and I follow your wired tutoríal and everything is on except the elements.. any clue?? Thanks
Hey George. Hoping you can help me out. I am actually trying to use the ITC-106VH to operate a motorized ball valve. I am trying to have the ball valve open at 219* and close at 217.5*. I’m using the on off control on the pid. The light comes on on the pid and the SSR. But the motorized cable doesn’t open. I have tested the valve with a straight 120v and it functions. Is there possibly a setting I am missing in the programming of the pid
I have this installed on my espresso machine, but upon heating it keeps overshooting SV with 15-20C (using K-type probe) Anyone having some tips regarding the PID settings and or moving to a PT100 sensor? Thanks
Very nice....the downloaded instructions from Inkbird are wrong. They indicate verbally that pin #3 is POS, but on the schematic it is pin #4 (page 5 from their PDF). One of these is wrong, either their verbiage or the schematic. I think pin #3 is positive based on that they want 4 and 5 linked on the diagram for 3 wire Pt sensor.
great video.. I built my own PID controller for a 120v process, after viewing many of your previous instructional videos. Got to say that it works great and I couldn't have done it without your info... great job.. !!!
Super. Now sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor.
George
Thank you so much for your video, no way I could have wired up my 106VH without your video. The instructions are not friendly for an amateur such as I. I am now researching to see if the 106VH can be used as a meat probe thermometer. If so could you explain how it can be used? I know I can buy a meat thermometer but I know the inkbird 106VH is a good control.
I purchased the linkbird itc itc-106 vh. am connecting it to a 2" stainless pipe. It came with a threaded thermal connector it is about 3/4 long 1/4 inch x20 thread. I can not find a fitting. Would you know what fitting and where I could get one. I tried to make one but too small for me to work with. Thanks in advance. PS I enjoy your information and am working on a project.
Hey. I have an old Paragon 2 element kiln that has a 4 way switch to allow the control of the elements in a low, medium, high which we have not even tried to get it hot yet, as I have been cleaning it up and replacing old wires and testing the elements which are said to be about 11.5 ohms, and they both tested ok, so after getting it all electrically sound and making sure it is wired correctly according to its original specs, I understand that the wiring on the switch says that low is 1 element full power, medium is both elements 1/2 power, and high is both elements full power! 120volts 20 amps and the metal plate says max temp is 2200 degrees! Ok, do without lightning it up yet, I dont know what temps it will be at each setting, but the PID can establish that, but I wanted to just send you a setup of what I have going, and since I respect your opinion, I would appreciate your advise before I try anything! But to start with, I am using an Inkbird ITC-106VR, and my goal is to first test each level, low, medium, and high just for the record, establish what they will do for temps, and know its normal operation, but I have a feeling that with the PID, I could theoretically just put the setting to High mode, and then one could just allow the PID to do the work for you, having the capability to set your temp to wherever you want up to the kilns limit, (Correct me if I am wrong about that theory), but anyway, I have a wiring diagram I have made for you to look at, to just see if I am ok, and to get your view on it, and make any corrections that you may guve me, as I really like your style, and trust your judgement, since you are more familiar with the way it is to be! However, I am still learning, and want to learn if I can do a ramping temp period, so to fire at a certain temp for a certain amount of time, then raise the temp at another amount of time + or - a given temp, and so on, but there are other ways of doing that, but if this can accomplish that, then cool! Anyway, thank you so much for your time, and understanding, and hope this isnt too much trouble!
I wsnted to send you my email address here, so I can send you my wiring setup, so you can give it a gander to see if I am good to go! Meanwhile, I wanted to compliment you on your vids, and will appreciate your opinion, and will greatly respect your guidance! Just email me at gemini.59@outlook.com, I will send you that setup and a few pics of how I built this onto the kiln! It actually looks like I might know what I am doing! Lol
Thanks buddy! I will look for your mail!
George, great videos! I have this pid on a powder coat oven. I’m getting some major temp swings, 65-80 degrees. What can I do close that gap. I’m using a forced air propane heater for a heat source. Thanks.
Hey George, is it necessary to fuse the PID? If so how, how should it be done?... Thank you sooooo much!
You could easily fuse it. Just wire in a fuse between pin #1 and the incoming power.
The PID will handle a large amount of voltage and only draw a small amount of amperage. I have not put fuses in for this reason.
It is really a personal choice.
George
Good instructional video ... watched another video where they fused the power to the SSR with a 10 amp fuse and a 1 amp fuse to the controller ... just wondered if you recommend this? Also my controller has connector screws missing compared to the other controller in the other video but similar to yours except there no #2 and #7 screw.
Thank you for this video! Very helpful! Very well described!
I'm trying to wire this so it kicks a contactor for a 6k watt heater. I got a contactor with a 24v coil but I guess the output for this thing is 12v. If I used a 120v coil, could I use this to kick the contactor?
Hello sir, I'm having a challenge on how to program a pid330 controller which was setup to control level and flow rate. Please can you help me with the tutorials of this?
I wish I’d seen this before I ordered the 106RH. I got the wrong controller and now I need to wait for the right one. Sigh.
Do not program the controller while it’s hooked to the elements. It blew up one of the SSR’s as i programmed it while watching the video
Man thank you so much George! I am a hobby knife maker and I want to get into stainless steel which requires a kiln. This will help immensely. Cheers I'm hitting the Subscribe button!
I just got finished rewiring an old heat press with this controller. Programmed it the way George instructed in the other video. In tests it really works well. I have several other processes I'm planning on using it for.
Hey George, how many ssr’s can you run off of one single pid (itc-106vh)?
George, Do you see any utility in having a PID and a variable controller in the same voltage control box? I like the idea of both, but also don't like the unstable characteristics of the PID with flash on/flash off power to the heating element....I'm thinking that the PID would be great to get the kettle to temp, but the manual variable for fine-tuning the column head temp...any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Also, I'm think that if built into a single controller, one could use an A/B type switch to go between the two (using a circuit breaker to turn power on and off before switching, of course!).
Great videos and really appreciate the in-depth commentary!
The PID is a great device for fine tuning. You could have a variable controller in the same circuit but then this would render the PID useless.
I'm trying to run a 106rh and out of the box it's not putting out any voltage.... Any ideas?
Thanks George, for this tutorial video it really helps
How you the wiring differ if I wanted to wire 2 heater cartridges to the pid instead of the outlet you used? I think I have an idea but I want to be sure before I wire it up and on the off chance get it wrong and damage anything. Thanks in advance!!
Thanks for this really good explanation.
Do you have or can you do one programming a Inkbird idt-e2rh?
Sounds like a great guy at heart, but some of these videos are SOO painful to extract the information.
Hello, if I run the hot wire from the socket to the receptical, then from the receptical to #1 pin. Should this connection work?
George could do one on using A PID for a smoker blower fan 12vdc thank you sir
George is back!!
Here for the duration
Hi George so I took it to my friend to hook it up well that went all to hell don't know what he hook up wrong but Burn it up wish I had some kinda drawing or a video to go by if got another one on the way thanks bud for all the info
All I heard was "never take a laxative and a sleeping pill at the same time." ;-)
Very good video. I am using the Inkbird ITC-106VH PID and the SSR is Inkbird SSR-40DA. I have it wired exactly like you did in video, the issue I am having is I am not getting any power to the outlet. I am using a 16ga power cable with 3 wires, black white and green. I have black wire from power cable going to pin 1 on SSR and black jumper wire going from pin 2 of SSR to brass as screw on outlet. I put volt meter from pin 1 on SSR to white wire on outlet and getting 120v, but when I go from black wire on pin 2 of SSR to white wire on outlet I get nothing. The PID is powering up and there is 120v going to pins 6 & 8 on PID. Could it be a bad relay? I am stumped!!!!
I should have mentioned that I am using this for my Masterbuilt smoker. The control board went out and they do not have a replacement. The heating element is 800watts. I found a video to bypass the control board and connect the element straight to the power cord and I am plugging that into outlet on the PID box.
Great video thank you very much
Ok i just did this and didn't realise how simple it was with George's help 👍👍.
George I have watched the videos diy wiring a PID with amp meter fan and switch. This video is not the same as the other video. The wiring is different. Your not showing how to wire a amp meter fan switch lighted switch along with the solid state relay and the PID INK BIRD. Should I wire the INK BIRD the same as the other video? Also where did you get the wire to connect to the fan?
I can think of at least 6 ways to wire this. Don't let that shock you. They all work.
Finally, a clear "connect A to B" description!
I mean not really at all. somewhere hidden in all the jabbering is the couple concise pieces of info needed. "Pin 1 is xxxx and goes to pin xxx on SSR.. PIN 2 is xxxx and goes to pi. 3. Pin 3 is xxx and goes to TC" wouldve been helpful. Having to sort through it makes it infinitely more confusing than neccesary to us electrons confusions fellas
Thank you for including this, along with your other efforts.
Man, I appreciate this video 😊
Have a Inkbird 106 for my 120 setup. A Rex C-100 for my 240 setup. Enjoy using both of them. Thanks for all the information 👍 HAPPY DISTILLING
Thanks George! Great video
The instructions say the + of the K Sensor should be connected to both 4 and 5. Do you think that is really necessary?
Also, is there a setting to keep the output relay from flashing when the temperature reaches the desired setting?
Thanks for the great video. I am going to use the ITC-106RL to operate a 24VAC gas valve on a Gas BBQ Smoker.
Greg
Hi there george. a quick question about PID controllers. Does the controller regulate the voltage coming out to get to the temperature set point? instead of being either on or off? and if so is this done with the SSR or the controller itself?. thanks
It is a combination of the controller and SSR. The controller converts the power to a square wave and the SSR only changes at the zero crossing of voltage so by timing the pulses the controller can provide power between 0-100% and all points in between as needed.
I've been watching your videos for a lot of years, maybe not that many but for quite a while and I've enjoyed all of them. Thank you, George for the Videos. I'm buying my own still from Milehi. Doyle
Hello George, I really enjoy your informative videos. Which PID controller do I need to power it from a 12 volt car battery in order to use a band heater to vaporize a substance like oxalic acid? I will use this away from A/C access. Thanks for your help in advanced. Keep those great videos coming.
I had a new inkbird pid controller sitting in a cupboard for over a year. Pulled it out the other day and it won’t power up, anyone else have defective ones?
Hmmmm. Sounds strange.
Thank you for making sense of the doo-hickey I bought to control the heating element for my RIMS system. I was completely lost trying to decipher the instructions. (...and your Dad jokes are on point BTW)
Great video on the wiring of the PID! Could you help me with adding an Inkbird IDT-E timer? I'm looking for the the timer to turn off the PID after a set time. This application is for a powder coating oven.
I have now had one installed, and it was intermittent, had to press on the case to get it to turn on, and replaced the intermittent one and similar issue, going for the third one, FYI.. 40 plus year electrical contractor, I thought I would revert to some you tubes to refresh my memory set up PID's this is my first experience with Inkbird, I have used others but for my customers sake, thought with the available you tubes by George who provides excellent DYI explanation step by step, would offer a great reference and avoid a service call. I hope the third unit works like the You Tube. Never had this issue with other PID's . I did see on a You Tube illustrating the 100 model that they made a jumper for the K style temp probe from five to four and connected the probe on three and four. I plane to try this before I return the first PID. I would imagine there are alot of these PID's not connected through a fuse-able link, since no fuse and holder is provided.
If there is a reason this unit appears along with the second one operates when you apply pressure to the display, I tapped on it and nothing, all the wire is 22 gauge military spec since I work with avionics and the wire insulation is much better in an industrial environment I would appreciate a reply, Thank you for your concise explanation, I doubt I will get a response since this thread appears to be years old.
I just found your channel. You do an amazing job explaining things. Please, keep up the good work!
Respectfully,
Dr. Brooksie ESQ
What a great video! Informative and hilarious! There’s not much like howling with laughter while learning new cool stuffs!
Thank
YOU!
Are you able to wire it up for a cooling outlet and heating outlet for a fermentation chamber such as a fridge with a heater inside? Kinda like the ITC-308?
Great video George. I have a question I believe that you may be the only one who can give an understandable answer to! If I add a second SSR can I control a heater as well as a cooler with this single PID? If this is possible, what is the wiring schematic, programing, etc? This would allow precise temp. control?
How long would a 12 volt batteiy last using the itc106vhl
heating a heat to 400 degees
Not sure. I run PIDs on AC voltage
Yes George, information for housewives. Whoever buys a temperature controller should know what to eat with it. This is not a microwave!
Just did the George Washington Rye mash last night. My OG was 1.040. Just checking to see what it should be from you. I would appreciate the information.
Great vid!
The only problem I’m having is my temps are showing up as negative. Can anyone let me know what I’m doing wrong?
My pelllet grill has four plugs, one for fan, igniter, auger and power. Can I connect fan and auger on same output connections to control simultaneously? I want to put the auger on a switch. Thank you for your help.
Very helpful. What is the maximum amperage that the ITC-106VH will switch?
Good job brother thank you
my heating element is not heating up is there a way to test my SSR to check if its running properly?
Is the red light on the SSR on or off?
Hi mate , I have an oven but it just keeps on going up in temp with my parameters set below
What have I done wrong
I removed thermostat
Really lost
Live your vids any help be massive 👍
THANK U GEORGE, THANK YOU 🙏👍❤️
To add to this George will you be completing Wiring 240V PID pieces and safety part 3?
I will. I am focused first on adjusting the advanced parameters for the inkbird and the mypin ta4. After that I can work on 240V systems. I just subscribed to your channel. Thanks
George
thank you Mr.
George-
This video is great! I've got this wired up exactly as shown, however it seems that I had gotten the 106RH models. Can this be wired up to still operate an external relay as you have shown in this video?
Thanks!
Awesome. If you’re not nor never have been a teacher than you missed your calling. I would have loved to have had someone like you in shop class
Thank you so much for this video... exactly what I was looking for and a clear understanding of what you were doing.
what a positive guy! Thanks so much for clear explanations
All this is new to me and thank y so much for sharing this I just followed along got my pid all wired up and programed. Thanks again George 👍
Excellent video! We have used several of these kits to retrofit glass blowing kilns from one's with a pyrometer to set point controllers. We have yet to use the thermocouple that comes in the kit, but it seems like it's cheaper to get it since it comes with the SSR with ITC106 VH.
I've got a question for you, I was just watching your video on equipment and you were leading me to 8 gallon over a 15 gallon. My question is can you use a 3 inch column on an 8 gallon? And what would be pros and cons? I'm thinking about the mile hi 8 gallon out back dual purpose
Damn, George! Great to see you back. Did you "un-retire"? Hope so...
So how do I add a 24vdc fan? I don't need the receptacle.. thanks
Hey, thank you for doing these videos. I found your channel by looking up how to make rum. Then I cam across your series on PID. This is exactly what I needed to complete a different project I am working on. I'm building an electric chicken scalder for processing meat chickens. The PID is exactly what I needed to be able to precisely control the temperature. Before I had found your videos, I was planning on building the controller with an arduino, but this is SO much easier. Thank you again. Excellent videos, you really make your videos entertaining and interesting.
It is my pleasure to do these and I am glad they help.
George
Hi George wiring a inkbird ITC106 is it the same as wiring a ITC100. many thanks
Yes. The difference is the control mode of the ITC 100 but wiring should be the same, The 100 model I believe is only centigrade.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing sensational George your the man 👍👍👍
Your careful attention to detail and broad knowledge base is a great asset to the home Brewer or distiller! Thank you for your time and effort in bringing us another great video! I have a question for you; How many watts would you recommend for a heating element to run a converted 15.5 gallon beer keg? Thanks!
I'm wiring a heating element for an electric smoker. It doesn't have a positive or negative on the element. How would I wire that? The same as the plug you have for the light? Would I just attach the ground to whatever I have? Im just confused and would like to figure this out. Thank you.
Element only have a hot and a neutral for 120V and two hots for 240 V
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing so 1 end of the heating element is positive and the other is neutral?
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing and the ground is just grounded where I can, correct?
Hi,
I have my PID wired up . the problem I have is the out light stays on even when the requested temp is reached . LED light on the SSR stays on as well.
I tried different setings , auto tune , ...
Could id be my PID is faulty ?
All opinions are welcome.
Kind regards
Wout
It is unlikely that the PID is faulty but that is a possibility.
Make sure your parameters are set correctly. Looks at the instructions on how to set these. Press set button for 3 seconds to enter the set up mode.
Under output settings the first option will be CTRL setting: make sure this is set to PID mode.
Next setting will be H-C (Heat/Cool) setting; make sure it is set to Heat.
The next setting will be Automatic; make sure this is set to automatic.
This may help.
Also make sure the SSR is connected to pins 6 (-) and 8 (+).
Hope this helps
George
Is it possible to use it to the measure temperature for deep frying oil.
yes
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing thanks :)
Missed you George, hope you had a good vacation and will be looking forward to every post!
Great
How would I wire this with a 4 wire 240 plug?
If I wanted a keyed switch to turn the entire unit off, where would I wire it?
Thinking between the incoming power black wire and the #1 on the relay ??
Yes. That would be a good place for it. You could add a power block inside the box and switch all power going to the power block.
Thank you for walking me through this. Love the videos!!
Glad to see you're back. I've been trying to call you to ask a few questions but I never can get a answer when I call.
is there any video0s out there that focus on actually showing in the simplest terms how to wire this pid controller i dont want to listen to soeone yap yap yap siply show what wire goes where they are numberedf so lets say we have 120v ac where does that go which number?then we hav a thermo couple which nu,m,ber?then a heater which number all i hear is blah blah i dont need ter,m,inology or symbol;s or line or hot jiust number
Sorry if the yapping offends you. Many others have benefited tremendously from this so it shall remain so.
More than helpful George. I actually have 2 106VH left over from another project but the k coupler is very short screw type.
That K type probe (although short) is accurate. The only difference between that and some that I use is the length of the probe. Both are exactly the same; just one is longer than the other like a 3 inch screw driver -VS- 6 inch screw driver.
hi i have this pid can u direct me to a vide showing how tto wire it to 240 v
Hey George, George here! What SSR do you recommend for a 220V application? Thanx Gb g
the 25DA is usually enough but if you want to be sure use a 40DA
Loved your video!! This helps me wire my Inkbird ITC106 VH PID Controller. Best regards, Adrian Aarons ^_^
Glad to hear it was helpful.
George
I am trying to wire up a clamp heating element...it only has two wires unlike an outlet, there is no provision for a ground wire....wire it in with the neutral?
Heating elements normally have only 2 connections (one for hot and one for neutral) the ground wire would be attached to the appliance in some manner.
George
Hey George, I’m having difficulty figuring out my inkbird controller. I was wondering if I could email you a description of what exactly is happening? I have be trying to get it to stop overshooting set temp. The Output light shuts off when it hits temp but the oven just keeps building heat with no fluctuations at all. Right now it is over shooting by 700F degrees. Something is causing the power to keep ramping up but Im not sure what. I have messed around with the PID settings with little to no luck.
I just wired mine up to smoker and having same issue. When it reaches set temp light goes out on SSR but temp in smoker keeps rising.
Sweet George ...Thank you for your videos!
George, I find these take a long time to get to the point needed, what do you think of putting a by-switch that would put element full on until it gets near temp needed, then switch it over to ssr mode??
I guess that is possible but the PID will operate at 100% power until it gets near the set temp. Sort of like full on until the error between the PV and SV narrows. Would sort of be the same thing. Your thoughts?
George
Can I just plug in a heating element into the outlet part of this setup or do I have to wire it differently. I'm building an injection molding machine and was wondering if this setup would work. Thank you
Yes. You will need to unplug it when it reaches temp and them plug it back in when the temp drops.