I mean not really at all. somewhere hidden in all the jabbering is the couple concise pieces of info needed. "Pin 1 is xxxx and goes to pin xxx on SSR.. PIN 2 is xxxx and goes to pi. 3. Pin 3 is xxx and goes to TC" wouldve been helpful. Having to sort through it makes it infinitely more confusing than neccesary to us electrons confusions fellas
George ,Three days ago I finally gathered all the pieces to assemble my control box , I tuned in "Barley and Hops" to refresh myself ,Low and behold hears George with a new video.,instructing me through my endeavor.THANKS GEORGE .Your videos have changed my life.
I just got finished rewiring an old heat press with this controller. Programmed it the way George instructed in the other video. In tests it really works well. I have several other processes I'm planning on using it for.
I've been watching your videos for a lot of years, maybe not that many but for quite a while and I've enjoyed all of them. Thank you, George for the Videos. I'm buying my own still from Milehi. Doyle
great video.. I built my own PID controller for a 120v process, after viewing many of your previous instructional videos. Got to say that it works great and I couldn't have done it without your info... great job.. !!!
I have now had one installed, and it was intermittent, had to press on the case to get it to turn on, and replaced the intermittent one and similar issue, going for the third one, FYI.. 40 plus year electrical contractor, I thought I would revert to some you tubes to refresh my memory set up PID's this is my first experience with Inkbird, I have used others but for my customers sake, thought with the available you tubes by George who provides excellent DYI explanation step by step, would offer a great reference and avoid a service call. I hope the third unit works like the You Tube. Never had this issue with other PID's . I did see on a You Tube illustrating the 100 model that they made a jumper for the K style temp probe from five to four and connected the probe on three and four. I plane to try this before I return the first PID. I would imagine there are alot of these PID's not connected through a fuse-able link, since no fuse and holder is provided. If there is a reason this unit appears along with the second one operates when you apply pressure to the display, I tapped on it and nothing, all the wire is 22 gauge military spec since I work with avionics and the wire insulation is much better in an industrial environment I would appreciate a reply, Thank you for your concise explanation, I doubt I will get a response since this thread appears to be years old.
Great video, I think I will need to wire one of these up! One of the disadvantages of solid state relays is that when they fail, they have a tendency to fail in the closed position, i.e. power on. That isn't to say people shouldn't use them, it just means we need to watch watch our temps even if a PID controller is connected.
You are absolutely right. The failure rate is very low but when it happens it's a bad thing. Situational awareness during distilling is always a good thing. Thanks George
Thank you for making sense of the doo-hickey I bought to control the heating element for my RIMS system. I was completely lost trying to decipher the instructions. (...and your Dad jokes are on point BTW)
Hey, thank you for doing these videos. I found your channel by looking up how to make rum. Then I cam across your series on PID. This is exactly what I needed to complete a different project I am working on. I'm building an electric chicken scalder for processing meat chickens. The PID is exactly what I needed to be able to precisely control the temperature. Before I had found your videos, I was planning on building the controller with an arduino, but this is SO much easier. Thank you again. Excellent videos, you really make your videos entertaining and interesting.
That K type probe (although short) is accurate. The only difference between that and some that I use is the length of the probe. Both are exactly the same; just one is longer than the other like a 3 inch screw driver -VS- 6 inch screw driver.
Hi George, wiring videos are usefull and I thank you for that; To push the thing a bit further, you could make a video on how to add a led (to visualize when power is sent to the heater), or an ampmeter to make sure the resistance is not broken, or an alarm... All these extra elements, which improve the use of temp controller. Greetings from France ;)
Man thank you so much George! I am a hobby knife maker and I want to get into stainless steel which requires a kiln. This will help immensely. Cheers I'm hitting the Subscribe button!
Excellent video! We have used several of these kits to retrofit glass blowing kilns from one's with a pyrometer to set point controllers. We have yet to use the thermocouple that comes in the kit, but it seems like it's cheaper to get it since it comes with the SSR with ITC106 VH.
Thank you so much for your video, no way I could have wired up my 106VH without your video. The instructions are not friendly for an amateur such as I. I am now researching to see if the 106VH can be used as a meat probe thermometer. If so could you explain how it can be used? I know I can buy a meat thermometer but I know the inkbird 106VH is a good control.
Your careful attention to detail and broad knowledge base is a great asset to the home Brewer or distiller! Thank you for your time and effort in bringing us another great video! I have a question for you; How many watts would you recommend for a heating element to run a converted 15.5 gallon beer keg? Thanks!
Good instructional video ... watched another video where they fused the power to the SSR with a 10 amp fuse and a 1 amp fuse to the controller ... just wondered if you recommend this? Also my controller has connector screws missing compared to the other controller in the other video but similar to yours except there no #2 and #7 screw.
George, great videos! I have this pid on a powder coat oven. I’m getting some major temp swings, 65-80 degrees. What can I do close that gap. I’m using a forced air propane heater for a heat source. Thanks.
I HAVE USED YOUR VIDEO / KNOWLEDGE TO CONVERT MY MANUAL SMOKER TO A PID CONTROLLED SMOKER. IT WORKS GREAT EXCEPT ONE PROBLEM.THE SMOKER / HEATING ELEMENT HEATS TO THE SET VALUE ON INITIAL HEAT UP BUT AS IT STARTS TO COOL, IT DROPS TO ABOUT 25-30 DEGREES F AND WILL NEVER GET CLOSER THAN 20-25 DEGREES OF SET POINT. ANY THOUGHTS WHY THIS IS OCCURRING?
Great video on the wiring of the PID! Could you help me with adding an Inkbird IDT-E timer? I'm looking for the the timer to turn off the PID after a set time. This application is for a powder coating oven.
Great video!! just got my unit hooked up today thanks to you, however the load circuit isn't opening when it rises above set temp. Power going to the load continuously. Yes its set to heat and the basics I think I've got covered. Stumped...
Go into the parameters and make sure the PID is set for PID function. Some of them come set to manual mode and need to be changed. I describe this in detail in the video about setting parameters. After that try the PID again and use the autotune button to fine tune the parameters. George
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing thanks. Yes it is set to PID. I can actually changed it to on/off because for my purposes that would work fine. Pressing set once shows it's functioning properly. The "a" value goes to 100 when under my heating temp and drops to a0 when satisfied but the ssr doesn't open the circuit to close. I've also got help request into inkbird but I'm not hopeful of a Swift response. I appreciate your insight.
It may be a faulty SSR. The output pins of the PID are polarity specific but when energized the SSR comes on and the red light should light, when the set temp is achieved it should de-energize and the red light goes off and breaks the connection.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing thank you so much. I do believe that the ssr is bad right out of the box. I'm going to be pushing a 208v heating element so I'm thinking this system probably isn't the most stable for my purposes. Truly appreciate your insight.
Hi George so I took it to my friend to hook it up well that went all to hell don't know what he hook up wrong but Burn it up wish I had some kinda drawing or a video to go by if got another one on the way thanks bud for all the info
Very nice....the downloaded instructions from Inkbird are wrong. They indicate verbally that pin #3 is POS, but on the schematic it is pin #4 (page 5 from their PDF). One of these is wrong, either their verbiage or the schematic. I think pin #3 is positive based on that they want 4 and 5 linked on the diagram for 3 wire Pt sensor.
Hello George, I really enjoy your informative videos. Which PID controller do I need to power it from a 12 volt car battery in order to use a band heater to vaporize a substance like oxalic acid? I will use this away from A/C access. Thanks for your help in advanced. Keep those great videos coming.
How you the wiring differ if I wanted to wire 2 heater cartridges to the pid instead of the outlet you used? I think I have an idea but I want to be sure before I wire it up and on the off chance get it wrong and damage anything. Thanks in advance!!
I purchased the linkbird itc itc-106 vh. am connecting it to a 2" stainless pipe. It came with a threaded thermal connector it is about 3/4 long 1/4 inch x20 thread. I can not find a fitting. Would you know what fitting and where I could get one. I tried to make one but too small for me to work with. Thanks in advance. PS I enjoy your information and am working on a project.
Just did the George Washington Rye mash last night. My OG was 1.040. Just checking to see what it should be from you. I would appreciate the information.
Hey George. Hoping you can help me out. I am actually trying to use the ITC-106VH to operate a motorized ball valve. I am trying to have the ball valve open at 219* and close at 217.5*. I’m using the on off control on the pid. The light comes on on the pid and the SSR. But the motorized cable doesn’t open. I have tested the valve with a straight 120v and it functions. Is there possibly a setting I am missing in the programming of the pid
Hey. I have an old Paragon 2 element kiln that has a 4 way switch to allow the control of the elements in a low, medium, high which we have not even tried to get it hot yet, as I have been cleaning it up and replacing old wires and testing the elements which are said to be about 11.5 ohms, and they both tested ok, so after getting it all electrically sound and making sure it is wired correctly according to its original specs, I understand that the wiring on the switch says that low is 1 element full power, medium is both elements 1/2 power, and high is both elements full power! 120volts 20 amps and the metal plate says max temp is 2200 degrees! Ok, do without lightning it up yet, I dont know what temps it will be at each setting, but the PID can establish that, but I wanted to just send you a setup of what I have going, and since I respect your opinion, I would appreciate your advise before I try anything! But to start with, I am using an Inkbird ITC-106VR, and my goal is to first test each level, low, medium, and high just for the record, establish what they will do for temps, and know its normal operation, but I have a feeling that with the PID, I could theoretically just put the setting to High mode, and then one could just allow the PID to do the work for you, having the capability to set your temp to wherever you want up to the kilns limit, (Correct me if I am wrong about that theory), but anyway, I have a wiring diagram I have made for you to look at, to just see if I am ok, and to get your view on it, and make any corrections that you may guve me, as I really like your style, and trust your judgement, since you are more familiar with the way it is to be! However, I am still learning, and want to learn if I can do a ramping temp period, so to fire at a certain temp for a certain amount of time, then raise the temp at another amount of time + or - a given temp, and so on, but there are other ways of doing that, but if this can accomplish that, then cool! Anyway, thank you so much for your time, and understanding, and hope this isnt too much trouble! I wsnted to send you my email address here, so I can send you my wiring setup, so you can give it a gander to see if I am good to go! Meanwhile, I wanted to compliment you on your vids, and will appreciate your opinion, and will greatly respect your guidance! Just email me at gemini.59@outlook.com, I will send you that setup and a few pics of how I built this onto the kiln! It actually looks like I might know what I am doing! Lol Thanks buddy! I will look for your mail!
Great video George. I have a question I believe that you may be the only one who can give an understandable answer to! If I add a second SSR can I control a heater as well as a cooler with this single PID? If this is possible, what is the wiring schematic, programing, etc? This would allow precise temp. control?
Very good video. I am using the Inkbird ITC-106VH PID and the SSR is Inkbird SSR-40DA. I have it wired exactly like you did in video, the issue I am having is I am not getting any power to the outlet. I am using a 16ga power cable with 3 wires, black white and green. I have black wire from power cable going to pin 1 on SSR and black jumper wire going from pin 2 of SSR to brass as screw on outlet. I put volt meter from pin 1 on SSR to white wire on outlet and getting 120v, but when I go from black wire on pin 2 of SSR to white wire on outlet I get nothing. The PID is powering up and there is 120v going to pins 6 & 8 on PID. Could it be a bad relay? I am stumped!!!!
I should have mentioned that I am using this for my Masterbuilt smoker. The control board went out and they do not have a replacement. The heating element is 800watts. I found a video to bypass the control board and connect the element straight to the power cord and I am plugging that into outlet on the PID box.
I'm trying to wire this so it kicks a contactor for a 6k watt heater. I got a contactor with a 24v coil but I guess the output for this thing is 12v. If I used a 120v coil, could I use this to kick the contactor?
George, Do you see any utility in having a PID and a variable controller in the same voltage control box? I like the idea of both, but also don't like the unstable characteristics of the PID with flash on/flash off power to the heating element....I'm thinking that the PID would be great to get the kettle to temp, but the manual variable for fine-tuning the column head temp...any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Also, I'm think that if built into a single controller, one could use an A/B type switch to go between the two (using a circuit breaker to turn power on and off before switching, of course!). Great videos and really appreciate the in-depth commentary!
The instructions say the + of the K Sensor should be connected to both 4 and 5. Do you think that is really necessary? Also, is there a setting to keep the output relay from flashing when the temperature reaches the desired setting? Thanks for the great video. I am going to use the ITC-106RL to operate a 24VAC gas valve on a Gas BBQ Smoker. Greg
My pelllet grill has four plugs, one for fan, igniter, auger and power. Can I connect fan and auger on same output connections to control simultaneously? I want to put the auger on a switch. Thank you for your help.
George , may ITC 106VH run a contractor instead of ssr ? Mnual says that 106vh has ac output 110-240v , my contactor runs from ac110. Look's like gonna work ? I'm confused because it also tells that output polarity important.. but if it AC control output.. ?
Are you able to wire it up for a cooling outlet and heating outlet for a fermentation chamber such as a fridge with a heater inside? Kinda like the ITC-308?
I have this installed on my espresso machine, but upon heating it keeps overshooting SV with 15-20C (using K-type probe) Anyone having some tips regarding the PID settings and or moving to a PT100 sensor? Thanks
You could easily fuse it. Just wire in a fuse between pin #1 and the incoming power. The PID will handle a large amount of voltage and only draw a small amount of amperage. I have not put fuses in for this reason. It is really a personal choice. George
Hi sir, I trying to conect two 1500 watts 125V broil elements in double receptacle in a 40amp 106ITC VHpid and I follow your wired tutoríal and everything is on except the elements.. any clue?? Thanks
George, you are awesome. I've torn through all of your videos in the past week, not having any previous electrical experience, I can confidently say that I will be able to wire my ambitious 4 pid controller once I amass the parts and draw up a schematic for it. Do you have plans to discuss hooking up solenoids for propane/ng use? Also, if one were running 4 pids, would a ssr be required for each one? Thank you again for all your help and your great videos! Cheers!
Jeremy, using 4 PIDs could require 4 SSRs but that is all dependent on the process you are controlling. If those PIDs are controlling high energy processes like heater elements then an SSR for each one would be necessary. You could have a single PID control several SSRs but again it is all dependent on your set-up. George
Thanks for the quick response! I would be powering 3 Honeywell solenoids that run off 24v circuit iirc. The 4th pid monitors the Herms coil output, and can be used to heat the hlt when necessary. Think 1 ssr would be enough?
n fact, you could use one PID with an SSR output (Inkbird itc106VH) and three with internal relays (inkbird ITC 106RH). This would make life so much easier for you.
Just to be sure Im on the right page here... The one SSR-output would be for my herms pid, since it will be firing the hlt the most frequently, and the 3 relay pid's would be for hlt, mlt and bk pids since they will be open for longer periods?
Hi there george. a quick question about PID controllers. Does the controller regulate the voltage coming out to get to the temperature set point? instead of being either on or off? and if so is this done with the SSR or the controller itself?. thanks
It is a combination of the controller and SSR. The controller converts the power to a square wave and the SSR only changes at the zero crossing of voltage so by timing the pulses the controller can provide power between 0-100% and all points in between as needed.
Hey George.. I really need your advice on a PID.. I need to build one that I can disconnect the thermal probe easily without having to open the control box every time. So I need to have a connector of some sort on the control box that I can run the wires from the back of the inkbird to the back of a connector then once the control box is closed I can put the probe wires on the connector. My problem is I am not sure what kind of connector would be the easiest to do this with. The reason I am doing this is because I need to utilize the threads on the probe and when I do it just twist the wire all up by the time I have the probe screwed into the column.. I hope this all makes sense lol... Thanks for any help.
Here is the link for a panel mount from Amazon. You can add this to you box or just get the plug and socket and that way you can plug it in when you need it. Real easy fix. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071SCMHRX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 George
I've got a question for you, I was just watching your video on equipment and you were leading me to 8 gallon over a 15 gallon. My question is can you use a 3 inch column on an 8 gallon? And what would be pros and cons? I'm thinking about the mile hi 8 gallon out back dual purpose
I will. I am focused first on adjusting the advanced parameters for the inkbird and the mypin ta4. After that I can work on 240V systems. I just subscribed to your channel. Thanks George
George- This video is great! I've got this wired up exactly as shown, however it seems that I had gotten the 106RH models. Can this be wired up to still operate an external relay as you have shown in this video? Thanks!
George love the video looking at putting one of these together my question is I have 2x 2000W elements can I use both of them on the two sockets?? Also I am in Australia and we use 240V straight out of the wall. Cheers
I do not know about Australia, but here in Germany we also have 240V with 16A fuses per circuit, in theory means 3840 watts of usable power before the backup flies, check your fuse box and calculate volts * amps = watts So no you can not use two 2000watt elements at the same time on the same circuit
Hello sir, I'm having a challenge on how to program a pid330 controller which was setup to control level and flow rate. Please can you help me with the tutorials of this?
George I have watched the videos diy wiring a PID with amp meter fan and switch. This video is not the same as the other video. The wiring is different. Your not showing how to wire a amp meter fan switch lighted switch along with the solid state relay and the PID INK BIRD. Should I wire the INK BIRD the same as the other video? Also where did you get the wire to connect to the fan?
You can wire it like I did in this video ruclips.net/video/tB45K7lzM9Q/видео.html Your controller will work on 110 V or 220 V. There are two videos that cover this in detail. Let me know if I can help or if you need me to explain anything more. George
Thanks but ill refrase my question.. i have a 110v controller and element, is there a way to plug it in to a 220v outlet in the wall without blowing the controller and element,?
OOPs, sorry. I misunderstood. Yes, your 220 outlet has two 110V legs and one ground. You can wire your controller to a 220V plug but only wire one hot leg (110V) and leave the other one empty and then wire the grounded leg. When you plug this in it will only provide 110 V since one leg is isolated. Hope this helps. George
I'm wiring a heating element for an electric smoker. It doesn't have a positive or negative on the element. How would I wire that? The same as the plug you have for the light? Would I just attach the ground to whatever I have? Im just confused and would like to figure this out. Thank you.
Can I just plug in a heating element into the outlet part of this setup or do I have to wire it differently. I'm building an injection molding machine and was wondering if this setup would work. Thank you
George, I find these take a long time to get to the point needed, what do you think of putting a by-switch that would put element full on until it gets near temp needed, then switch it over to ssr mode??
I guess that is possible but the PID will operate at 100% power until it gets near the set temp. Sort of like full on until the error between the PV and SV narrows. Would sort of be the same thing. Your thoughts? George
If I wanted a keyed switch to turn the entire unit off, where would I wire it? Thinking between the incoming power black wire and the #1 on the relay ??
I am trying to wire up a clamp heating element...it only has two wires unlike an outlet, there is no provision for a ground wire....wire it in with the neutral?
Heating elements normally have only 2 connections (one for hot and one for neutral) the ground wire would be attached to the appliance in some manner. George
Hi mate , I have an oven but it just keeps on going up in temp with my parameters set below What have I done wrong I removed thermostat Really lost Live your vids any help be massive 👍
Finally, a clear "connect A to B" description!
I mean not really at all. somewhere hidden in all the jabbering is the couple concise pieces of info needed. "Pin 1 is xxxx and goes to pin xxx on SSR.. PIN 2 is xxxx and goes to pi. 3. Pin 3 is xxx and goes to TC" wouldve been helpful. Having to sort through it makes it infinitely more confusing than neccesary to us electrons confusions fellas
George ,Three days ago I finally gathered all the pieces to assemble my control box , I tuned in "Barley and Hops" to refresh myself ,Low and behold hears George with a new video.,instructing me through my endeavor.THANKS GEORGE .Your videos have changed my life.
What a true gentleman George is. He helps me out with setting my pid parameters. Always replied back and very polite. Thankyou George
Ian, Hope your PID troubles are over. Did you decide to get a new one? If so maybe the 106 VH model. It is much more reliable.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing looks like it's work but if not the 106 Will be my purchase
"Never take a sleeping pill and a laxative at the same time"
I'm so glad you're back George!
I just got finished rewiring an old heat press with this controller. Programmed it the way George instructed in the other video. In tests it really works well. I have several other processes I'm planning on using it for.
Awesome. If you’re not nor never have been a teacher than you missed your calling. I would have loved to have had someone like you in shop class
Thanks George! I followed your video directions to build a PID controller for my smoker and it works flawlessly.
Great news. We really like getting these responses. They validate that a good idea is worth passing on.
I've been watching your videos for a lot of years, maybe not that many but for quite a while and I've enjoyed all of them. Thank you, George for the Videos. I'm buying my own still from Milehi. Doyle
great video.. I built my own PID controller for a 120v process, after viewing many of your previous instructional videos. Got to say that it works great and I couldn't have done it without your info... great job.. !!!
Super. Now sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor.
George
I have now had one installed, and it was intermittent, had to press on the case to get it to turn on, and replaced the intermittent one and similar issue, going for the third one, FYI.. 40 plus year electrical contractor, I thought I would revert to some you tubes to refresh my memory set up PID's this is my first experience with Inkbird, I have used others but for my customers sake, thought with the available you tubes by George who provides excellent DYI explanation step by step, would offer a great reference and avoid a service call. I hope the third unit works like the You Tube. Never had this issue with other PID's . I did see on a You Tube illustrating the 100 model that they made a jumper for the K style temp probe from five to four and connected the probe on three and four. I plane to try this before I return the first PID. I would imagine there are alot of these PID's not connected through a fuse-able link, since no fuse and holder is provided.
If there is a reason this unit appears along with the second one operates when you apply pressure to the display, I tapped on it and nothing, all the wire is 22 gauge military spec since I work with avionics and the wire insulation is much better in an industrial environment I would appreciate a reply, Thank you for your concise explanation, I doubt I will get a response since this thread appears to be years old.
George, that is about as clear and concise explanation of anything I've ever seen. Kudos!
Great video, I think I will need to wire one of these up!
One of the disadvantages of solid state relays is that when they fail, they have a tendency to fail in the closed position, i.e. power on. That isn't to say people shouldn't use them, it just means we need to watch watch our temps even if a PID controller is connected.
You are absolutely right. The failure rate is very low but when it happens it's a bad thing. Situational awareness during distilling is always a good thing. Thanks
George
Thank you for making sense of the doo-hickey I bought to control the heating element for my RIMS system. I was completely lost trying to decipher the instructions. (...and your Dad jokes are on point BTW)
Hey, thank you for doing these videos. I found your channel by looking up how to make rum. Then I cam across your series on PID. This is exactly what I needed to complete a different project I am working on. I'm building an electric chicken scalder for processing meat chickens. The PID is exactly what I needed to be able to precisely control the temperature. Before I had found your videos, I was planning on building the controller with an arduino, but this is SO much easier. Thank you again. Excellent videos, you really make your videos entertaining and interesting.
It is my pleasure to do these and I am glad they help.
George
Ok i just did this and didn't realise how simple it was with George's help 👍👍.
What a great video! Informative and hilarious! There’s not much like howling with laughter while learning new cool stuffs!
Thank
YOU!
More than helpful George. I actually have 2 106VH left over from another project but the k coupler is very short screw type.
That K type probe (although short) is accurate. The only difference between that and some that I use is the length of the probe. Both are exactly the same; just one is longer than the other like a 3 inch screw driver -VS- 6 inch screw driver.
Have a Inkbird 106 for my 120 setup. A Rex C-100 for my 240 setup. Enjoy using both of them. Thanks for all the information 👍 HAPPY DISTILLING
Hi George, wiring videos are usefull and I thank you for that; To push the thing a bit further, you could make a video on how to add a led (to visualize when power is sent to the heater), or an ampmeter to make sure the resistance is not broken, or an alarm... All these extra elements, which improve the use of temp controller. Greetings from France ;)
Man thank you so much George! I am a hobby knife maker and I want to get into stainless steel which requires a kiln. This will help immensely. Cheers I'm hitting the Subscribe button!
Thanks George, for this tutorial video it really helps
I just found your channel. You do an amazing job explaining things. Please, keep up the good work!
Respectfully,
Dr. Brooksie ESQ
All this is new to me and thank y so much for sharing this I just followed along got my pid all wired up and programed. Thanks again George 👍
Thank you for this video! Very helpful! Very well described!
Thanks for this really good explanation.
Thank you so much for this video... exactly what I was looking for and a clear understanding of what you were doing.
Excellent video! We have used several of these kits to retrofit glass blowing kilns from one's with a pyrometer to set point controllers. We have yet to use the thermocouple that comes in the kit, but it seems like it's cheaper to get it since it comes with the SSR with ITC106 VH.
what a positive guy! Thanks so much for clear explanations
Thank you for walking me through this. Love the videos!!
Glad to see you're back. I've been trying to call you to ask a few questions but I never can get a answer when I call.
Thank you for including this, along with your other efforts.
Thank you so much for your video, no way I could have wired up my 106VH without your video. The instructions are not friendly for an amateur such as I. I am now researching to see if the 106VH can be used as a meat probe thermometer. If so could you explain how it can be used? I know I can buy a meat thermometer but I know the inkbird 106VH is a good control.
George is back!!
Here for the duration
Your careful attention to detail and broad knowledge base is a great asset to the home Brewer or distiller! Thank you for your time and effort in bringing us another great video! I have a question for you; How many watts would you recommend for a heating element to run a converted 15.5 gallon beer keg? Thanks!
Missed you George, hope you had a good vacation and will be looking forward to every post!
YES!!!! George is back..... Thank You George.
Good instructional video ... watched another video where they fused the power to the SSR with a 10 amp fuse and a 1 amp fuse to the controller ... just wondered if you recommend this? Also my controller has connector screws missing compared to the other controller in the other video but similar to yours except there no #2 and #7 screw.
Nice to see you back at it!!
Thanks. It's good to be back
George
George, great videos! I have this pid on a powder coat oven. I’m getting some major temp swings, 65-80 degrees. What can I do close that gap. I’m using a forced air propane heater for a heat source. Thanks.
I HAVE USED YOUR VIDEO / KNOWLEDGE TO CONVERT MY MANUAL SMOKER TO A PID CONTROLLED SMOKER. IT WORKS GREAT EXCEPT ONE PROBLEM.THE SMOKER / HEATING ELEMENT HEATS TO THE SET VALUE ON INITIAL HEAT UP BUT AS IT STARTS TO COOL, IT DROPS TO ABOUT 25-30 DEGREES F AND WILL NEVER GET CLOSER THAN 20-25 DEGREES OF SET POINT. ANY THOUGHTS WHY THIS IS OCCURRING?
Loved your video!! This helps me wire my Inkbird ITC106 VH PID Controller. Best regards, Adrian Aarons ^_^
Glad to hear it was helpful.
George
Very helpful. What is the maximum amperage that the ITC-106VH will switch?
Great video on the wiring of the PID! Could you help me with adding an Inkbird IDT-E timer? I'm looking for the the timer to turn off the PID after a set time. This application is for a powder coating oven.
Man, I appreciate this video 😊
Great video!! just got my unit hooked up today thanks to you, however the load circuit isn't opening when it rises above set temp. Power going to the load continuously. Yes its set to heat and the basics I think I've got covered. Stumped...
Go into the parameters and make sure the PID is set for PID function. Some of them come set to manual mode and need to be changed. I describe this in detail in the video about setting parameters.
After that try the PID again and use the autotune button to fine tune the parameters.
George
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing thanks. Yes it is set to PID. I can actually changed it to on/off because for my purposes that would work fine. Pressing set once shows it's functioning properly. The "a" value goes to 100 when under my heating temp and drops to a0 when satisfied but the ssr doesn't open the circuit to close. I've also got help request into inkbird but I'm not hopeful of a Swift response. I appreciate your insight.
It may be a faulty SSR. The output pins of the PID are polarity specific but when energized the SSR comes on and the red light should light, when the set temp is achieved it should de-energize and the red light goes off and breaks the connection.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing thank you so much. I do believe that the ssr is bad right out of the box. I'm going to be pushing a 208v heating element so I'm thinking this system probably isn't the most stable for my purposes. Truly appreciate your insight.
Hi George so I took it to my friend to hook it up well that went all to hell don't know what he hook up wrong but Burn it up wish I had some kinda drawing or a video to go by if got another one on the way thanks bud for all the info
Thanks George! Great video
Very nice....the downloaded instructions from Inkbird are wrong. They indicate verbally that pin #3 is POS, but on the schematic it is pin #4 (page 5 from their PDF). One of these is wrong, either their verbiage or the schematic. I think pin #3 is positive based on that they want 4 and 5 linked on the diagram for 3 wire Pt sensor.
Hello George, I really enjoy your informative videos. Which PID controller do I need to power it from a 12 volt car battery in order to use a band heater to vaporize a substance like oxalic acid? I will use this away from A/C access. Thanks for your help in advanced. Keep those great videos coming.
Finally, George glad to see new content! more distilling vids please..
Working on it now. Should be out in a few days or weeks.
How you the wiring differ if I wanted to wire 2 heater cartridges to the pid instead of the outlet you used? I think I have an idea but I want to be sure before I wire it up and on the off chance get it wrong and damage anything. Thanks in advance!!
I purchased the linkbird itc itc-106 vh. am connecting it to a 2" stainless pipe. It came with a threaded thermal connector it is about 3/4 long 1/4 inch x20 thread. I can not find a fitting. Would you know what fitting and where I could get one. I tried to make one but too small for me to work with. Thanks in advance. PS I enjoy your information and am working on a project.
Sweet George ...Thank you for your videos!
Just did the George Washington Rye mash last night. My OG was 1.040. Just checking to see what it should be from you. I would appreciate the information.
Hey George. Hoping you can help me out. I am actually trying to use the ITC-106VH to operate a motorized ball valve. I am trying to have the ball valve open at 219* and close at 217.5*. I’m using the on off control on the pid. The light comes on on the pid and the SSR. But the motorized cable doesn’t open. I have tested the valve with a straight 120v and it functions. Is there possibly a setting I am missing in the programming of the pid
Hey. I have an old Paragon 2 element kiln that has a 4 way switch to allow the control of the elements in a low, medium, high which we have not even tried to get it hot yet, as I have been cleaning it up and replacing old wires and testing the elements which are said to be about 11.5 ohms, and they both tested ok, so after getting it all electrically sound and making sure it is wired correctly according to its original specs, I understand that the wiring on the switch says that low is 1 element full power, medium is both elements 1/2 power, and high is both elements full power! 120volts 20 amps and the metal plate says max temp is 2200 degrees! Ok, do without lightning it up yet, I dont know what temps it will be at each setting, but the PID can establish that, but I wanted to just send you a setup of what I have going, and since I respect your opinion, I would appreciate your advise before I try anything! But to start with, I am using an Inkbird ITC-106VR, and my goal is to first test each level, low, medium, and high just for the record, establish what they will do for temps, and know its normal operation, but I have a feeling that with the PID, I could theoretically just put the setting to High mode, and then one could just allow the PID to do the work for you, having the capability to set your temp to wherever you want up to the kilns limit, (Correct me if I am wrong about that theory), but anyway, I have a wiring diagram I have made for you to look at, to just see if I am ok, and to get your view on it, and make any corrections that you may guve me, as I really like your style, and trust your judgement, since you are more familiar with the way it is to be! However, I am still learning, and want to learn if I can do a ramping temp period, so to fire at a certain temp for a certain amount of time, then raise the temp at another amount of time + or - a given temp, and so on, but there are other ways of doing that, but if this can accomplish that, then cool! Anyway, thank you so much for your time, and understanding, and hope this isnt too much trouble!
I wsnted to send you my email address here, so I can send you my wiring setup, so you can give it a gander to see if I am good to go! Meanwhile, I wanted to compliment you on your vids, and will appreciate your opinion, and will greatly respect your guidance! Just email me at gemini.59@outlook.com, I will send you that setup and a few pics of how I built this onto the kiln! It actually looks like I might know what I am doing! Lol
Thanks buddy! I will look for your mail!
Great to see a video from you
Thanks
Great video George. I have a question I believe that you may be the only one who can give an understandable answer to! If I add a second SSR can I control a heater as well as a cooler with this single PID? If this is possible, what is the wiring schematic, programing, etc? This would allow precise temp. control?
Can you plug 2 heating elements into the outlet? And control temp on both?
Very good video. I am using the Inkbird ITC-106VH PID and the SSR is Inkbird SSR-40DA. I have it wired exactly like you did in video, the issue I am having is I am not getting any power to the outlet. I am using a 16ga power cable with 3 wires, black white and green. I have black wire from power cable going to pin 1 on SSR and black jumper wire going from pin 2 of SSR to brass as screw on outlet. I put volt meter from pin 1 on SSR to white wire on outlet and getting 120v, but when I go from black wire on pin 2 of SSR to white wire on outlet I get nothing. The PID is powering up and there is 120v going to pins 6 & 8 on PID. Could it be a bad relay? I am stumped!!!!
I should have mentioned that I am using this for my Masterbuilt smoker. The control board went out and they do not have a replacement. The heating element is 800watts. I found a video to bypass the control board and connect the element straight to the power cord and I am plugging that into outlet on the PID box.
I'm trying to wire this so it kicks a contactor for a 6k watt heater. I got a contactor with a 24v coil but I guess the output for this thing is 12v. If I used a 120v coil, could I use this to kick the contactor?
George, Do you see any utility in having a PID and a variable controller in the same voltage control box? I like the idea of both, but also don't like the unstable characteristics of the PID with flash on/flash off power to the heating element....I'm thinking that the PID would be great to get the kettle to temp, but the manual variable for fine-tuning the column head temp...any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Also, I'm think that if built into a single controller, one could use an A/B type switch to go between the two (using a circuit breaker to turn power on and off before switching, of course!).
Great videos and really appreciate the in-depth commentary!
The PID is a great device for fine tuning. You could have a variable controller in the same circuit but then this would render the PID useless.
The instructions say the + of the K Sensor should be connected to both 4 and 5. Do you think that is really necessary?
Also, is there a setting to keep the output relay from flashing when the temperature reaches the desired setting?
Thanks for the great video. I am going to use the ITC-106RL to operate a 24VAC gas valve on a Gas BBQ Smoker.
Greg
My pelllet grill has four plugs, one for fan, igniter, auger and power. Can I connect fan and auger on same output connections to control simultaneously? I want to put the auger on a switch. Thank you for your help.
HI George thanks for all the info!!
Hello, if I run the hot wire from the socket to the receptical, then from the receptical to #1 pin. Should this connection work?
George , may ITC 106VH run a contractor instead of ssr ? Mnual says that 106vh has ac output 110-240v , my contactor runs from ac110. Look's like gonna work ?
I'm confused because it also tells that output polarity important.. but if it AC control output.. ?
Hey George, how many ssr’s can you run off of one single pid (itc-106vh)?
Yes George, information for housewives. Whoever buys a temperature controller should know what to eat with it. This is not a microwave!
Are you able to wire it up for a cooling outlet and heating outlet for a fermentation chamber such as a fridge with a heater inside? Kinda like the ITC-308?
Damn, George! Great to see you back. Did you "un-retire"? Hope so...
Great video thank you very much
Do you have or can you do one programming a Inkbird idt-e2rh?
I have this installed on my espresso machine, but upon heating it keeps overshooting SV with 15-20C (using K-type probe) Anyone having some tips regarding the PID settings and or moving to a PT100 sensor? Thanks
Hey George, is it necessary to fuse the PID? If so how, how should it be done?... Thank you sooooo much!
You could easily fuse it. Just wire in a fuse between pin #1 and the incoming power.
The PID will handle a large amount of voltage and only draw a small amount of amperage. I have not put fuses in for this reason.
It is really a personal choice.
George
I'm trying to run a 106rh and out of the box it's not putting out any voltage.... Any ideas?
Hi sir, I trying to conect two 1500 watts 125V broil elements in double receptacle in a 40amp 106ITC VHpid and I follow your wired tutoríal and everything is on except the elements.. any clue?? Thanks
Yea! you are Back!
I have to make up some ground. It's good to be back in action. Thanks
George, you are awesome. I've torn through all of your videos in the past week, not having any previous electrical experience, I can confidently say that I will be able to wire my ambitious 4 pid controller once I amass the parts and draw up a schematic for it. Do you have plans to discuss hooking up solenoids for propane/ng use? Also, if one were running 4 pids, would a ssr be required for each one? Thank you again for all your help and your great videos! Cheers!
Jeremy, using 4 PIDs could require 4 SSRs but that is all dependent on the process you are controlling. If those PIDs are controlling high energy processes like heater elements then an SSR for each one would be necessary. You could have a single PID control several SSRs but again it is all dependent on your set-up.
George
Thanks for the quick response! I would be powering 3 Honeywell solenoids that run off 24v circuit iirc. The 4th pid monitors the Herms coil output, and can be used to heat the hlt when necessary. Think 1 ssr would be enough?
n fact, you could use one PID with an SSR output (Inkbird itc106VH) and three with internal relays (inkbird ITC 106RH). This would make life so much easier for you.
That’s great to know! Thanks George 🙌🏼
Just to be sure Im on the right page here... The one SSR-output would be for my herms pid, since it will be firing the hlt the most frequently, and the 3 relay pid's would be for hlt, mlt and bk pids since they will be open for longer periods?
George could do one on using A PID for a smoker blower fan 12vdc thank you sir
Great vid!
The only problem I’m having is my temps are showing up as negative. Can anyone let me know what I’m doing wrong?
Hi there george. a quick question about PID controllers. Does the controller regulate the voltage coming out to get to the temperature set point? instead of being either on or off? and if so is this done with the SSR or the controller itself?. thanks
It is a combination of the controller and SSR. The controller converts the power to a square wave and the SSR only changes at the zero crossing of voltage so by timing the pulses the controller can provide power between 0-100% and all points in between as needed.
Hey George.. I really need your advice on a PID.. I need to build one that I can disconnect the thermal probe easily without having to open the control box every time. So I need to have a connector of some sort on the control box that I can run the wires from the back of the inkbird to the back of a connector then once the control box is closed I can put the probe wires on the connector. My problem is I am not sure what kind of connector would be the easiest to do this with. The reason I am doing this is because I need to utilize the threads on the probe and when I do it just twist the wire all up by the time I have the probe screwed into the column.. I hope this all makes sense lol... Thanks for any help.
Here is the link for a panel mount from Amazon. You can add this to you box or just get the plug and socket and that way you can plug it in when you need it. Real easy fix.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071SCMHRX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
George
Wow I had no idea they even made these... Thanks George! Your awesome man!! Love all your videos!
I've got a question for you, I was just watching your video on equipment and you were leading me to 8 gallon over a 15 gallon. My question is can you use a 3 inch column on an 8 gallon? And what would be pros and cons? I'm thinking about the mile hi 8 gallon out back dual purpose
To add to this George will you be completing Wiring 240V PID pieces and safety part 3?
I will. I am focused first on adjusting the advanced parameters for the inkbird and the mypin ta4. After that I can work on 240V systems. I just subscribed to your channel. Thanks
George
George-
This video is great! I've got this wired up exactly as shown, however it seems that I had gotten the 106RH models. Can this be wired up to still operate an external relay as you have shown in this video?
Thanks!
My wood chips in my smoker wont ignite with the lower element voltage. How do you get past this issue? A smoker isn't much of a smoker without smoke>
George love the video looking at putting one of these together my question is I have 2x 2000W elements can I use both of them on the two sockets?? Also I am in Australia and we use 240V straight out of the wall.
Cheers
I do not know about Australia, but here in Germany we also have 240V with 16A fuses per circuit, in theory means 3840 watts of usable power before the backup flies, check your fuse box and calculate volts * amps = watts So no you can not use two 2000watt elements at the same time on the same circuit
Hello sir, I'm having a challenge on how to program a pid330 controller which was setup to control level and flow rate. Please can you help me with the tutorials of this?
George I have watched the videos diy wiring a PID with amp meter fan and switch. This video is not the same as the other video. The wiring is different. Your not showing how to wire a amp meter fan switch lighted switch along with the solid state relay and the PID INK BIRD. Should I wire the INK BIRD the same as the other video? Also where did you get the wire to connect to the fan?
I can think of at least 6 ways to wire this. Don't let that shock you. They all work.
what can i do if i have a 110v controller but 220v in the outled in the wall? thanks for the good videos.
You can wire it like I did in this video ruclips.net/video/tB45K7lzM9Q/видео.html
Your controller will work on 110 V or 220 V.
There are two videos that cover this in detail. Let me know if I can help or if you need me to explain anything more.
George
Thanks but ill refrase my question.. i have a 110v controller and element, is there a way to plug it in to a 220v outlet in the wall without blowing the controller and element,?
OOPs, sorry. I misunderstood. Yes, your 220 outlet has two 110V legs and one ground. You can wire your controller to a 220V plug but only wire one hot leg (110V) and leave the other one empty and then wire the grounded leg. When you plug this in it will only provide 110 V since one leg is isolated. Hope this helps.
George
Thanks very helpfull
I'm wiring a heating element for an electric smoker. It doesn't have a positive or negative on the element. How would I wire that? The same as the plug you have for the light? Would I just attach the ground to whatever I have? Im just confused and would like to figure this out. Thank you.
Element only have a hot and a neutral for 120V and two hots for 240 V
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing so 1 end of the heating element is positive and the other is neutral?
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing and the ground is just grounded where I can, correct?
Can I just plug in a heating element into the outlet part of this setup or do I have to wire it differently. I'm building an injection molding machine and was wondering if this setup would work. Thank you
Yes. You will need to unplug it when it reaches temp and them plug it back in when the temp drops.
Good job brother thank you
THANK U GEORGE, THANK YOU 🙏👍❤️
George, I find these take a long time to get to the point needed, what do you think of putting a by-switch that would put element full on until it gets near temp needed, then switch it over to ssr mode??
I guess that is possible but the PID will operate at 100% power until it gets near the set temp. Sort of like full on until the error between the PV and SV narrows. Would sort of be the same thing. Your thoughts?
George
If I wanted a keyed switch to turn the entire unit off, where would I wire it?
Thinking between the incoming power black wire and the #1 on the relay ??
Yes. That would be a good place for it. You could add a power block inside the box and switch all power going to the power block.
I am trying to wire up a clamp heating element...it only has two wires unlike an outlet, there is no provision for a ground wire....wire it in with the neutral?
Heating elements normally have only 2 connections (one for hot and one for neutral) the ground wire would be attached to the appliance in some manner.
George
Hi mate , I have an oven but it just keeps on going up in temp with my parameters set below
What have I done wrong
I removed thermostat
Really lost
Live your vids any help be massive 👍
What wire connectors are you using? They look like a factory manufactured the wire and connector together
Those are connectors I purchased at my local hardware store. You strip the wire,insert it into the connector and squeeze it closed.
Thanks!