My theory on boat projects or all major projects is to do something everyday. No matter how big or small, something everyday to keep you in the project.
I needed this comment! Im so sick of itching and grinding, and I already missed my bull drum season. Was thinking of putting the boat aside for a while, but I know how that usually ends. Thanks for the advice.
I have done the bothemside of my boat for 2 years now and all wennt well because the most of your videos showed me how to do this. This winter its time for the upper half😎 Tnx from The Netherlands
Those flybye nite shops stay in business because you have a lot of people that are to cheap to pay to have it done right. I redo boat interiors and I run across those types all the time.
Your videos helped me a lot with some 1995 carolina skiff repairs I made recently removing rotted wood from the rear seats and center console and replacing it with coosa board. Thank you for all the time and effort that goes into your work.
So glad you finally went over poly vs epoxy. I’ve been scumming your videos for years on what I have to use for my restoration when I paint or gel coat. I always got confused if I needed to use poly or epoxy for what and why. I finally understand with this video! Thank you!
So glad you produced this video. I'm working on redoing the floor of our FourWinns Horizon 180 (we bought it with carpet needing replacement) and decided to paint (and texture) instead of carpet. I had questions on layering and your video has helped steer me in a direction I feel confident in. I've been a subscriber for a year or more (and had gone back into older vids way past that). Very helpful. Next time I travel thru Ashland to Bayfield I'll swing by and drop off a case of 1919 Rootbeer. :)
I should have watched this before I started! Better late than never. As you will know from my post, I am a complete noob to fibreglass and trying to work on a 3.8m Bertram Carribean (probably 1970s) and trailer (in bad shape), with a 1976 Mercury 40hp in amazingly good condition for its age) in a suburban garage. i have two holes in my hull just like in the video. My polyester resin is taking many hours to set so I leave it overnight. I found that my floor that I put in with Poly is not sticking in all areas to the old hull and floor- so it must be epoxy hull? I want to make sure im using the correct glass from this point fwd (not concerned about finish, #1 concern is for safety). My take away from this is: if my priority is strength over finish then I should do everything in Epoxy (including the similar hole -peanut butter in the void and laminate both sides? Is there a video on the slot/gouge/hole?). I should expoxy over the floor that was poly'd in. Are all Epoxy fibreglass resins born equal? (im using 500 series Epoxy with a UV (530?) hardener. Label says its ok for marine... (if I was in USA I would purchase off of you but im Aus). Any advice from anyone is apreciated.
Well shoot... I was planning on using gelcoat for my final finish but I guess It's going to have to be paint instead bc I have a new transome made completely out of epoxy... i thought epoxy would be the way to go for the secondary bonding strength... dang man. Thought I had it figured out. At least I wont have bonding failures with my final coat now that I know. Thanks Andy!
I thought you might be interested in my recent topside repainting experience using Alexseal topcoat (Flag Blue). While planning the project, I had the very good fortune of speaking with my local Alexseal representative, Alistor Smith. Not only did Alistor provide me with a lot of helpful information and support, he also dropped off a sample of their new roll-on additive to try out. Not knowing what to expect, I started applying the first coat with my usual roll and tip application method. However half way through, I realized that the rolled finish looked better (smoother, glossier) than the areas that were also tipped. Consequently I stopped tipping for the remainder of the project. I have to say that rolling out Alexseal with this "magic" additive was the easiest and most satisfying topside painting experience I have ever had. It delivered a beautiful finish that exceeded my DIY standards and expectations. A sincere "thank you" for this recommendation and all the other excellent info you share with us Andy.
Have you done or could you do a video showing how to inspect an older boat yourself to know how good or bad the glass is? I'm in the market for a boat right now and would love how to inspect the glass. Thanks for the great videos
Question on gelcoat over epoxy. Was wondering what issues I might run into if I do try to layup gel over filler with epoxy? Doing some transom work and going to re-gel the entire transom but have filled holes nicks, chips etc with epoxy and silica. Will the gel not adhere to epoxy well? Or other issues? I guess I could do my final fairing in poly or a bondo type material if other wise I’ll have issues. But this issue deff got my hamster onto the old brain wheel
Additionally, u did the gelcoat to epoxy review a while back and said bonding wise it would work well, and saw no issues... so I’m corn-fused! I think I’m just gonna sand, fill fairing flat and brush gel 3-4 layers and wet sand and buff... Thoughts?
Can you do a video on how to do repairs on awkward places, for example insight corners or cuts in corners where you don't have access from the other side? 😅 a little overeager with the saw and I have cut through my deck where it meets the cabin.
I get working backwards from surface coating decision to resin decision to fiber decision. I also understand the thorough sanding of the hull. But what I don’t get is how you decided to use the CSM on the hull. How did you know the hull wasn’t constructed with an epoxy resin? If you laid the CSM over expoxy, couldn’t it just peel off? If you suspected the original resin was epoxy, would you use a 2 oz woven glass fabric, roll it out with epoxy resin, then fill the weave with fairing compound? Is there any way around the rule “No Poly over Epoxy?” Can you just assume any hull that is finished with gel coat can hold CSM/poly?
OK, so I’m onboard with the Rebel Redo project. I’m getting near to repainting my old 17 ft Boston Whaler. It’s a 1967 hull which I last painted with Interlux in 1988. It’s time for repaint again so I’m interested in the AlexSeal.
Wouldn’t you be able to prevent the cracks from telegraphing through by using an application of lighter glass cloth with your choice of resins? It seems like this would add much less weight and some strength, and be easier to fair, especially because it did not sound your plan was a structural enhancement.
I don't have a boat right now, but whenever you post something I watch it for the informational and sometimes entertainment. I have also gone back and watched your other videos. I am on a limited budget being medically retired, but as I keep telling my wife: You know if I got a boat, I probably would feel better. She says I want a boat boat because she can't swim. You know how they say the wife is always right?...hmmmn...
A good friend of mine has a jetski boat rental buisness. I want to start getting into this. Hopefully make some good money.. Your videos are very detailed and full of information. I have been watching your videos non stop for 3 weeks now.
I think 1708 has chop strand matting on the under side. Does that mean I need to use polyester or can I use my epoxy Rosen that I have been using? Thanks for the help. I really enjoy your videos.
Hi Andy! I’m a new subscriber and catching up on your awesome video’s. Thanks for putting all the effort into it. I’ve got a basic beginner question re sanding. How do you know when to change your sanding disk and how often did you change it on that boat? Thanks!
A couple years back you did a video about gel coat over epoxy and showed the polyester gel coat bonded just fine. Just curious, why the change of opinion on using polyester over epoxy?
Thanks for your intro to the project. Please do not skip gelcoat cracks repair too quickly. That's a typical problem we all face at times. Staying tuned. PK
I thought I was in the clear with Totalboat gelcoat w/wax over epoxy based fairing compound. I keyed the surface and prepped it with TB dewaxer then applied the gelcoat. What am I looking at for a failure, will it just de-laminate?
You’re probably ok. Totalboat instruction says not to put their gell coat over epoxy but they actually have a video showing otherwise. I think the major factor is if the epoxy reached full cure, sanded/grind surface to remove the surface wax that forms after epoxy cures and fast dry solvent wipe before applying the fell coat. For structural applications it’s usually very bad to put polyester over epoxy.
I fixed a hole in my boat and left the epoxy for 4 months or so and now my 50 grit sander hardly touches it. Trying to strip the old sand based grit layer it killing me too. I only used epoxy but would love to try poly. Great video
Can someone explain, why you don't want to use poly over epoxy. But he's saying you can essentially start with epoxy, then switch to poly for cost savings, on multiple layers, then back to epoxy. I'm new to glass, so not wanting to screw up my first boat. Thanks much,
How can you tell if your hull is epoxy or poly or any other type of resin. ? I have this issue on my 94 mako hull where it is absorbing and then leaking water out when I take out of water. I grounded it out previously and fill the void with Epoxey and powdered glass and laid up fiberglass. But is still dripping after repair. I believe I needed to use 1708 witch I didn’t use I used chopped strain from Home Depot. and prob did not put the correct layers on. Do you think that is the issue ? Any suggestions. I know I’m gonna grind it all back down and start again on the second repair. Just trying to figure this out and your channel is very helpful.. the area I grinder out is the hull keel were it comes to point . I made a bonehead mistake and launched boat and forgot to put plug-in and somehow water got in everywhere most likely soaking foam . Another issue (I know) fml.! I know that if the fiberglass cloth selection is selected right theoretically there should be 100% waterproof where water will not come in or out as I understand it. Just looking for your experience and thoughts on this . Thx sorry for long ?
I have a 1960 19' Dougles built Scot with same hull repairs and spider cracking, looking forward to this video! My bow top deck is thick white gel coat that has very bad spider cracking. Could you please address best options for the severe old raised gel coat cracking vs random light cracking problems or are they the same? Lots of older boats out there that could be brought back to beautiful with a little hard work and determination. Thank you for passing on your knowledge and highlighting new products.
Andy, i have cracks shown in the gel coat beneath the waterline. They are probably from flexing and they are situated around a bulkhead and the floor. They’re situated at the bulkhead of the forward cabine. It are long cracks and close to each other. Lets say 10 to 15 cracks over an area of 5 inch wide and a foot and 1/2 long. I grinded away the gel coat and they are in the hull laminate. It are typical textbook cracks. Should I grind that out and put in new glass mat? (What I was planning to do.) or do you have a better idea?
I bought a used boat and sanded and re gelcoated the cockpit. 2 small spots haven't tried in 2 days and I think there was epoxy patches there. So I have to grind that back out and fill with glass or wipe off the wet gelcoat and fill and epoxy prime over it. Then I can continue to spray gelcoat and sand and buff to shine. This is what you can come across unexpectedly. Every salesmen at the store is happy to sell you the expensive stuff but is that what your boat was made from originally?
Hey Andy your shows are great but I am lacking a few pieces of knowledge. I am working on my baja and need to replace the floor start to finish. Obviously I want to use coosa board but honestly need a few pointers on the fiberglass in general and how to finish for the faux teak.
Great video. I agree the older boats are better. That is why I am restoring a 1981 Catalina 22. For older boats do you recommend an epoxy barrier coat on the bottom?
I don’t understand why you use chop strand mat for anything, I would think that a glass cloth is much better for all applications and would be much stronger, the only thing I can see with chop strand is cost
I have this older Beautiful Boat and I need some imperfections in the Gelcoat fixed. My last two experiences with two local boat repair shops. Well I will just say, I am done with boat repair shops locally. Both places have me an estimate for repairs. And when they called and said my boat was done. When I arrived and got the bill. First place the was 1,200 more then initial 1,000 bid price. Second place said repair would be 150 to 225.00 for the repair. And it would be ready in two weeks. Calls me next day and says my boat is ready. Guess what, the bill was 578.00 more then the quoted price. I am fed up with repair shops.
Andy, so happy to see you doing this series, as I have just purchased two Lido 14's. One is to sail right now ($1200 with two sets of sails and trailer) and the other as a project rebuild ($350 with trailer). The gel coat on my fixer-upper is hard as nails and 60 grit barely makes a dent. My first question is on your hull sanding equipment, can you give me a run down on your equipment and what grit(s) of paper you used? I also see you have a respirator, but what kind is recommended? I also did not see a lot of blue powder filling the air of your enclosed space, how do you manage that? Last question, how can I make a donation to Boatworkstoday without joining patreon? Would be happy to make a gift by check for all your helpful knowledge.
I am in the process of painting a 17ft fishing boat with Alexseal. This is a test before I paint my 34’ sailboat. I have sanded faired primed and sanded again and am ready for topcoat. I already have my paint, do you recommend I order this additive before I start? I was also wondering if the primer over my gelcoat is mandatory. If I sand off I’ll the oxidized gelcoat, can I apply topcoat directly to that surface? I have 2 concerns, one is the additional sanding required after the primer and second, I don’t want to get to much buildup on my textured nonskid decks. Thanks for all your help
Wow! There is quite a difference between your two cameras as far as color and tone go. In the one you look up and left to you look normal, the other makes you look like you spent 5 hours at Pensacola Beach... LOBSTER! I thought from all your previous videos you had a skin condition that gave you a permanent rash.
Hi Andy, Thanks a bunch for all the info you impart to us “once a year” boat repairers. Hey - where does the music come from? It’s usually pretty good! You should get a few Boatworks playlists onto RUclips music!
Thanks for the great video, I’m looking to fill and somehow make a more durable keel on my 16 foot fiberglass runabout. We beach it a lot here in the Puget Sound islands. Any advice on protecting the keel, with matting, Kevlar?
Chopper gun vs hand laid mat - That's why I bought a Grady White, would never buy a chopped fiberglass boat. Great video's, great little project/test bed
I always thought it was poly for making parts and epoxy for securing to existing structure. So if you are making say a bulkhead or bracket it could be made with poly (or vinylester or epoxy). But then securing any part to the existing hull means epoxy only for that strong bond. So tabbing in a deck or transom would solely be epoxy. Is this accurate?
Hello Andy! Commenting for my husband because he is unable to comment on his computer. He has a 1973 AMF Puffer that he is restoring. He has total boat two part epoxy with slow hardener (5 day cure). He’s having trouble filling screw holes on the gunnels. He has done it twice and every time it comes out gummy. What is he doing wrong?
Sounds like the mix ratio is off between the resin and hardener. They have two types of epoxy; 2:1 and 5:1. Is he using the pumps or pouring out of the containers? If pouring, the pumps are very helpful :-) Also what temps is he working in? Slow hardener you should be about 70F minimum.. Hope this helps!
Hi Andy, great videos, have learnt a lot from watching. One question, is the paint you are discussing available in Australia and if so do you know the distributor? I have restored an old bout with some modifications. Structurally it is fine, but having trouble with finishing the gelcoat. Any assistance would be appreciated.
I have an old gheenoe that my son and I are planning to restore. There are a lot of surdace cracks, one crack that starts on the bottom and wraps up the side, about 6 inches total but all the way through. The sides are surprisingly weak and a lot of cracking noises are heard when it flexes. Getting ready to delve into your videos today to get my head wrapped around fiberglass repair. Anyway, I appreciate how thorough you are with explaining the processes of boat repairs and how much content there is to help.
Hi Andy, this is another great video thank you very much. I plan to join you over on patreon because I'm taking on a project and I'll need a little insight from you on. It is a 28 ft flybridge Tollycraft Sportfisher, mid 70s vintage and I felt, like you said here, the older construction is better quality due to costs. I'm in the Los Angeles area and soberly looking forward to sizing up this project. Also, If I may throw in my 2 cents, lower the volume of the music some. When I lower it and then you start talking again I need to interrupt you and raise the volume again. Also, your daughter's voice at the end is perfect and priceless
Hey your videos helped me get a 94 Key West 1720 back in the water. From a thru hull repair, replacing a gas tank and spraying gel coat like a pro! Thanks so much. Your work is great!
Andy I have a question on the new alex seal paint. Would like to use the new product and roll it. Just wondered if i could send u a pic of what I want to paint and you tell me what you think about rolling it. Thanks Rick
Hello Andy I just have to say I've learned a lot from your videos I'm actually working on 18 foot jet boat right now about ready to do the transom and the stringers I had a question on your thoughts my buddy runs a cabinet shop so he's going to get me the marine-grade plywood and were thinking about making a glulam for the stringers out of the plywood
Hi Andy, I enjoyed your explanation of planning the project very much! I made the mistake of putting gelcoat over epoxy and was almost brought to tears. I didn't know that epoxy needed a sealing primer. Thank you and I'm looking forward to your next video.
What a great series on Gel Coating for boat repair. Super instructional technique and understandable instructions. I am grateful for the information. My pristine Sea Fox CC got swept into a post and now has hope to be restored from some contact chips and scratches. Thank you.
Darn I missed your time window on the questions for here. :( I'll post it anyway since it might help others if it does get answered. Caliber Yacht Sales ( local brokerage firm ) has a custom fiberglass yacht available, trans-ocean range. In the information on it they state this yacht is capable of doing the Northwest Passage, with the implication that it is the fact the hull is 6 inches thick is the reason. I know a hull like on the current project ( thickness wise ) would not be a good option, but how thick would a hull have to be to have the strength to handle heavy ice conditions like you can expect for doing something like the Northwest Passage? Would 3 inches of glass be enough? Less or More? Cored with foam as additional thickness? Just so Andy gets an idea of how many people would be interested in the answer, leave a like on my comment if you would like to know.
Amazing channel! Quick question: I have a fiberglass’s panel (over wood) that my motor vent is mounted to. This area has two water drains that release onto this panel with the intention that the water makes it to the engine sump. Problem...few areas have cracked allowing water to get underneath and exposing the wood. Some areas more than likely have rot. I intend to dig out any rotted areas then fill will mar glass then add a couple of layers of fiber glass. What type of resin should I use ( would paint after)? Thanks in advance Dave
Thank you very much super video I can’t wait to see the other ones I will continue watching them it’s going to help me a lot to fix my boat to thank you keep on Super video
Might be interesting to do a video with applying poly over epoxy and vis-a-versa to see if there is any noticable comprised strength loss or delamination. Etc.. I've heard of this issue but never ran into anyone who actually had an issue (or noticable issue). Great job!
Hay Andy. Thank you for you channel . Because some of us would love to be patrion member but its all I can do to fund my project. Half the time . I have a 67 glastron carlson cv16. I have started my project with total boat products. Impticuler glass and Resin . I am really trying to figure out if I am using the right products for my job . I have finnsh the floor already. But I had to rebuild mt dash! Imparticular the steering wheel area . Thank you in advance for any info you are willing to share .
Hello Andy, Have you done any resin infusion, if not will you talk about it or do something to show it? Could be an alternative for the Bertram tramson?
Is it possible that the cracks are the result of wet or rotten wood stingers or stiffeners? I am working on an old boat with lots of cracks in the hull and transom. Most of them appear to be the result of improper storage as you mentioned but also appear to result from flex due to usage with rotten stringers
So does that mean Epoxy boats today are better than most of the vinyl ester boats? If that is so why does the majority of USA builders still use the stuff. Almost as if quality doesn't count anymore.
Your videos are just so informative. On a scientific level even. I own a steel cruiser 27 feet long , in Europa, I’ve put 7 layers of epoxy to protect my below the water line hull.this has almost nothing to do with fiber glass hulls. Still I enjoy every single video you put out. What a knowledge you have of the products that are out there , sir. Thank you
I wish I saw this earlier I've been trying to find the rolling reducer since you mentioned it last week and can't find it anywhere if you have a link you can toss in the description or something that would be awesome i need to paint and this seems ideal thank you in advance.
Also I plan on joining your patrion for some personal attention from you with my project. What do you recommend having ready prior to our first communion? Thanks and I can’t wait!!
Thanks Andy. Looking forward to the following videos on this project. Can’t wait to try Alexseal on our sailboat. That’s if I can get it in Ontario. Cheers.
My theory on boat projects or all major projects is to do something everyday. No matter how big or small, something everyday to keep you in the project.
and you have a spiffy excuse to not put everything away at the end of the day! but.... i need it tomorrow i swear!!!
This is a good theory and I am sitkcing to it!
I needed this comment! Im so sick of itching and grinding, and I already missed my bull drum season. Was thinking of putting the boat aside for a while, but I know how that usually ends. Thanks for the advice.
I have done the bothemside of my boat for 2 years now and all wennt well because the most of your videos showed me how to do this.
This winter its time for the upper half😎
Tnx from The Netherlands
Wished all boat repair shops were as thorough and knowledgeable as yourself.
Those flybye nite shops stay in business because you have a lot of people that are to cheap to pay to have it done right. I redo boat interiors and I run across those types all the time.
Your videos helped me a lot with some 1995 carolina skiff repairs I made recently removing rotted wood from the rear seats and center console and replacing it with coosa board. Thank you for all the time and effort that goes into your work.
Perfect timing for this subject. Planning on rolling Alexseal soon.
So glad you finally went over poly vs epoxy. I’ve been scumming your videos for years on what I have to use for my restoration when I paint or gel coat. I always got confused if I needed to use poly or epoxy for what and why.
I finally understand with this video! Thank you!
I do have a guide on my website which goes over the different resins in much more detail if interested :-)!
Andy, love that Festool sander! Because of your videos I ordered one and am on the list because they are all sold out in North America! Great Video!
So glad you produced this video. I'm working on redoing the floor of our FourWinns Horizon 180 (we bought it with carpet needing replacement) and decided to paint (and texture) instead of carpet. I had questions on layering and your video has helped steer me in a direction I feel confident in. I've been a subscriber for a year or more (and had gone back into older vids way past that). Very helpful. Next time I travel thru Ashland to Bayfield I'll swing by and drop off a case of 1919 Rootbeer. :)
Glad the vids are helpful ;-)! I'm more of an IPA kind of root beer guy lol :-)
I should have watched this before I started! Better late than never. As you will know from my post, I am a complete noob to fibreglass and trying to work on a 3.8m Bertram Carribean (probably 1970s) and trailer (in bad shape), with a 1976 Mercury 40hp in amazingly good condition for its age) in a suburban garage. i have two holes in my hull just like in the video. My polyester resin is taking many hours to set so I leave it overnight. I found that my floor that I put in with Poly is not sticking in all areas to the old hull and floor- so it must be epoxy hull? I want to make sure im using the correct glass from this point fwd (not concerned about finish, #1 concern is for safety).
My take away from this is: if my priority is strength over finish then I should do everything in Epoxy (including the similar hole -peanut butter in the void and laminate both sides? Is there a video on the slot/gouge/hole?). I should expoxy over the floor that was poly'd in. Are all Epoxy fibreglass resins born equal? (im using 500 series Epoxy with a UV (530?) hardener. Label says its ok for marine... (if I was in USA I would purchase off of you but im Aus). Any advice from anyone is apreciated.
Thanks for these great explanations, Andy!
Well shoot... I was planning on using gelcoat for my final finish but I guess It's going to have to be paint instead bc I have a new transome made completely out of epoxy... i thought epoxy would be the way to go for the secondary bonding strength... dang man. Thought I had it figured out. At least I wont have bonding failures with my final coat now that I know. Thanks Andy!
That's a new boat technology there! Foreward popsicle stick rudders will be the wave of the future :)
I thought you might be interested in my recent topside repainting experience using Alexseal topcoat (Flag Blue). While planning the project, I had the very good fortune of speaking with my local Alexseal representative, Alistor Smith. Not only did Alistor provide me with a lot of helpful information and support, he also dropped off a sample of their new roll-on additive to try out.
Not knowing what to expect, I started applying the first coat with my usual roll and tip application method. However half way through, I realized that the rolled finish looked better (smoother, glossier) than the areas that were also tipped. Consequently I stopped tipping for the remainder of the project.
I have to say that rolling out Alexseal with this "magic" additive was the easiest and most satisfying topside painting experience I have ever had. It delivered a beautiful finish that exceeded my DIY standards and expectations.
A sincere "thank you" for this recommendation and all the other excellent info you share with us Andy.
Have you done or could you do a video showing how to inspect an older boat yourself to know how good or bad the glass is? I'm in the market for a boat right now and would love how to inspect the glass.
Thanks for the great videos
Question on gelcoat over epoxy. Was wondering what issues I might run into if I do try to layup gel over filler with epoxy? Doing some transom work and going to re-gel the entire transom but have filled holes nicks, chips etc with epoxy and silica.
Will the gel not adhere to epoxy well? Or other issues? I guess I could do my final fairing in poly or a bondo type material if other wise I’ll have issues.
But this issue deff got my hamster onto the old brain wheel
Additionally, u did the gelcoat to epoxy review a while back and said bonding wise it would work well, and saw no issues... so I’m corn-fused! I think I’m just gonna sand, fill fairing flat and brush gel 3-4 layers and wet sand and buff...
Thoughts?
Can you do a video on how to do repairs on awkward places, for example insight corners or cuts in corners where you don't have access from the other side? 😅 a little overeager with the saw and I have cut through my deck where it meets the cabin.
I get working backwards from surface coating decision to resin decision to fiber decision. I also understand the thorough sanding of the hull. But what I don’t get is how you decided to use the CSM on the hull. How did you know the hull wasn’t constructed with an epoxy resin? If you laid the CSM over expoxy, couldn’t it just peel off? If you suspected the original resin was epoxy, would you use a 2 oz woven glass fabric, roll it out with epoxy resin, then fill the weave with fairing compound? Is there any way around the rule “No Poly over Epoxy?” Can you just assume any hull that is finished with gel coat can hold CSM/poly?
OK, so I’m onboard with the Rebel Redo project. I’m getting near to repainting my old 17 ft Boston Whaler. It’s a 1967 hull which I last painted with Interlux in 1988. It’s time for repaint again so I’m interested in the AlexSeal.
Wouldn’t you be able to prevent the cracks from telegraphing through by using an application of lighter glass cloth with your choice of resins? It seems like this would add much less weight and some strength, and be easier to fair, especially because it did not sound your plan was a structural enhancement.
I don't have a boat right now, but whenever you post something I watch it for the informational and sometimes entertainment. I have also gone back and watched your other videos. I am on a limited budget being medically retired, but as I keep telling my wife: You know if I got a boat, I probably would feel better. She says I want a boat boat because she can't swim. You know how they say the wife is always right?...hmmmn...
That was hilarious lol :-)
A good friend of mine has a jetski boat rental buisness. I want to start getting into this. Hopefully make some good money.. Your videos are very detailed and full of information. I have been watching your videos non stop for 3 weeks now.
Aww. I missed the Q and A?
I'm thinking I missed something on previous videos. Why can't you use epoxy with chop strand glass?
I was trying to figure this out too.
I think 1708 has chop strand matting on the under side. Does that mean I need to use polyester or can I use my epoxy Rosen that I have been using? Thanks for the help. I really enjoy your videos.
Hi Andy! I’m a new subscriber and catching up on your awesome video’s. Thanks for putting all the effort into it. I’ve got a basic beginner question re sanding. How do you know when to change your sanding disk and how often did you change it on that boat? Thanks!
A couple years back you did a video about gel coat over epoxy and showed the polyester gel coat bonded just fine. Just curious, why the change of opinion on using polyester over epoxy?
Thanks for your intro to the project. Please do not skip gelcoat cracks repair too quickly. That's a typical problem we all face at times. Staying tuned. PK
I thought I was in the clear with Totalboat gelcoat w/wax over epoxy based fairing compound. I keyed the surface and prepped it with TB dewaxer then applied the gelcoat. What am I looking at for a failure, will it just de-laminate?
You’re probably ok. Totalboat instruction says not to put their gell coat over epoxy but they actually have a video showing otherwise. I think the major factor is if the epoxy reached full cure, sanded/grind surface to remove the surface wax that forms after epoxy cures and fast dry solvent wipe before applying the fell coat. For structural applications it’s usually very bad to put polyester over epoxy.
Andy, I just can’t believe you went to all this work so you can show us and teach us your craft. Simply wonderful!
I fixed a hole in my boat and left the epoxy for 4 months or so and now my 50 grit sander hardly touches it. Trying to strip the old sand based grit layer it killing me too. I only used epoxy but would love to try poly. Great video
Took me a while but I finally figured out what was different about this video: no coveralls.
Haha, they'll be coming back in the Fall when it's a little cooler in the shop :-)!
i just got that same sander..absolutely love the whole system
I'm so excited to see this project through as I have a similar project coming up om my boat. Great work as always. Love your channel Andy.
Can someone explain, why you don't want to use poly over epoxy. But he's saying you can essentially start with epoxy, then switch to poly for cost savings, on multiple layers, then back to epoxy. I'm new to glass, so not wanting to screw up my first boat. Thanks much,
How can you tell if your hull is epoxy or poly or any other type of resin. ?
I have this issue on my 94 mako hull where it is absorbing and then leaking water out when I take out of water. I grounded it out previously and fill the void with Epoxey and powdered glass and laid up fiberglass. But is still dripping after repair. I believe I needed to use 1708 witch I didn’t use I used chopped strain from Home Depot. and prob did not put the correct layers on. Do you think that is the issue ? Any suggestions. I know I’m gonna grind it all back down and start again on the second repair. Just trying to figure this out and your channel is very helpful.. the area I grinder out is the hull keel were it comes to point . I made a bonehead mistake and launched boat and forgot to put plug-in and somehow water got in everywhere most likely soaking foam . Another issue (I know) fml.! I know that if the fiberglass cloth selection is selected right theoretically there should be 100% waterproof where water will not come in or out as I understand it. Just looking for your experience and thoughts on this .
Thx sorry for long ?
Do you offer consulting for DIY projects?? Or offer suggestions for repairs??
(Repairing floorboards on a 98 20' Bayliner)
I have a 1960 19' Dougles built Scot with same hull repairs and spider cracking, looking forward to this video! My bow top deck is thick white gel coat that has very bad spider cracking. Could you please address best options for the severe old raised gel coat cracking vs random light cracking problems or are they the same? Lots of older boats out there that could be brought back to beautiful with a little hard work and determination. Thank you for passing on your knowledge and highlighting new products.
Andy, i have cracks shown in the gel coat beneath the waterline. They are probably from flexing and they are situated around a bulkhead and the floor. They’re situated at the bulkhead of the forward cabine. It are long cracks and close to each other. Lets say 10 to 15 cracks over an area of 5 inch wide and a foot and 1/2 long. I grinded away the gel coat and they are in the hull laminate. It are typical textbook cracks. Should I grind that out and put in new glass mat? (What I was planning to do.) or do you have a better idea?
I bought a used boat and sanded and re gelcoated the cockpit. 2 small spots haven't tried in 2 days and I think there was epoxy patches there. So I have to grind that back out and fill with glass or wipe off the wet gelcoat and fill and epoxy prime over it. Then I can continue to spray gelcoat and sand and buff to shine. This is what you can come across unexpectedly. Every salesmen at the store is happy to sell you the expensive stuff but is that what your boat was made from originally?
What brand is the orbital you’re using. That dust collection on it is pretty cool. I’m sure it wasn’t cheap.
Hey Andy your shows are great but I am lacking a few pieces of knowledge. I am working on my baja and need to replace the floor start to finish. Obviously I want to use coosa board but honestly need a few pointers on the fiberglass in general and how to finish for the faux teak.
Great video. I agree the older boats are better. That is why I am restoring a 1981 Catalina 22. For older boats do you recommend an epoxy barrier coat on the bottom?
I don’t understand why you use chop strand mat for anything, I would think that a glass cloth is much better for all applications and would be much stronger, the only thing I can see with chop strand is cost
Enjoying the glorious sanding.....oh wait, I’ve got the wrong channel!
Lol
Good job 👏 👍
Any tips on using a random orbital sander over rounded edges? Thanks!
I have this older Beautiful Boat and I need some imperfections in the Gelcoat fixed. My last two experiences with two local boat repair shops. Well I will just say, I am done with boat repair shops locally. Both places have me an estimate for repairs. And when they called and said my boat was done. When I arrived and got the bill. First place the was 1,200 more then initial 1,000 bid price. Second place said repair would be 150 to 225.00 for the repair. And it would be ready in two weeks. Calls me next day and says my boat is ready. Guess what, the bill was 578.00 more then the quoted price. I am fed up with repair shops.
Unfortunately that happens all too often :-/
Yes it does, from now on it will be in writing and no more good O”ll boy trust you syndrome stuff.
Your knowledge man you need some apprentices and you would be a millionaire easy
Can you still buy the better matting material today? If so how do you find it?
Andy, so happy to see you doing this series, as I have just purchased two Lido 14's. One is to sail right now ($1200 with two sets of sails and trailer) and the other as a project rebuild ($350 with trailer). The gel coat on my fixer-upper is hard as nails and 60 grit barely makes a dent. My first question is on your hull sanding equipment, can you give me a run down on your equipment and what grit(s) of paper you used? I also see you have a respirator, but what kind is recommended? I also did not see a lot of blue powder filling the air of your enclosed space, how do you manage that? Last question, how can I make a donation to Boatworkstoday without joining patreon? Would be happy to make a gift by check for all your helpful knowledge.
I am in the process of painting a 17ft fishing boat with Alexseal. This is a test before I paint my 34’ sailboat. I have sanded faired primed and sanded again and am ready for topcoat. I already have my paint, do you recommend I order this additive before I start? I was also wondering if the primer over my gelcoat is mandatory. If I sand off I’ll the oxidized gelcoat, can I apply topcoat directly to that surface? I have 2 concerns, one is the additional sanding required after the primer and second, I don’t want to get to much buildup on my textured nonskid decks. Thanks for all your help
Wow! There is quite a difference between your two cameras as far as color and tone go. In the one you look up and left to you look normal, the other makes you look like you spent 5 hours at Pensacola Beach... LOBSTER! I thought from all your previous videos you had a skin condition that gave you a permanent rash.
Hi Andy, Thanks a bunch for all the info you impart to us “once a year” boat repairers. Hey - where does the music come from? It’s usually pretty good! You should get a few Boatworks playlists onto RUclips music!
Thanks for the great video, I’m looking to fill and somehow make a more durable keel on my 16 foot fiberglass runabout. We beach it a lot here in the Puget Sound islands. Any advice on protecting the keel, with matting, Kevlar?
Chopper gun vs hand laid mat - That's why I bought a Grady White, would never buy a chopped fiberglass boat. Great video's, great little project/test bed
I always thought it was poly for making parts and epoxy for securing to existing structure. So if you are making say a bulkhead or bracket it could be made with poly (or vinylester or epoxy). But then securing any part to the existing hull means epoxy only for that strong bond. So tabbing in a deck or transom would solely be epoxy. Is this accurate?
Hello Andy! Commenting for my husband because he is unable to comment on his computer.
He has a 1973 AMF Puffer that he is restoring. He has total boat two part epoxy with slow hardener (5 day cure). He’s having trouble filling screw holes on the gunnels. He has done it twice and every time it comes out gummy. What is he doing wrong?
Sounds like the mix ratio is off between the resin and hardener. They have two types of epoxy; 2:1 and 5:1. Is he using the pumps or pouring out of the containers? If pouring, the pumps are very helpful :-) Also what temps is he working in? Slow hardener you should be about 70F minimum.. Hope this helps!
Great video
Good information
I’m building a small boat how can I get a consultation with you??????🤔🤔🤔🤔
Hi Andy, great videos, have learnt a lot from watching. One question, is the paint you are discussing available in Australia and if so do you know the distributor? I have restored an old bout with some modifications. Structurally it is fine, but having trouble with finishing the gelcoat. Any assistance would be appreciated.
I have an old gheenoe that my son and I are planning to restore. There are a lot of surdace cracks, one crack that starts on the bottom and wraps up the side, about 6 inches total but all the way through. The sides are surprisingly weak and a lot of cracking noises are heard when it flexes. Getting ready to delve into your videos today to get my head wrapped around fiberglass repair. Anyway, I appreciate how thorough you are with explaining the processes of boat repairs and how much content there is to help.
Hi Andy, this is another great video thank you very much. I plan to join you over on patreon because I'm taking on a project and I'll need a little insight from you on. It is a 28 ft flybridge Tollycraft Sportfisher, mid 70s vintage and I felt, like you said here, the older construction is better quality due to costs. I'm in the Los Angeles area and soberly looking forward to sizing up this project.
Also, If I may throw in my 2 cents, lower the volume of the music some. When I lower it and then you start talking again I need to interrupt you and raise the volume again.
Also, your daughter's voice at the end is perfect and priceless
Excellent technical video. Thanks.
sorry, can u please calm down so that us without adhd can follow too
Hey your videos helped me get a 94 Key West 1720 back in the water. From a thru hull repair, replacing a gas tank and spraying gel coat like a pro! Thanks so much. Your work is great!
Andy
I have a question on the new alex seal paint. Would like to use the new product and roll it. Just wondered if i could send u a pic of what I want to paint and you tell me what you think about rolling it.
Thanks Rick
Hello Andy I just have to say I've learned a lot from your videos I'm actually working on 18 foot jet boat right now about ready to do the transom and the stringers I had a question on your thoughts my buddy runs a cabinet shop so he's going to get me the marine-grade plywood and were thinking about making a glulam for the stringers out of the plywood
Hi Andy,
I enjoyed your explanation of planning the project very much! I made the mistake of putting gelcoat over epoxy and was almost brought to tears. I didn't know that epoxy needed a sealing primer. Thank you and I'm looking forward to your next video.
My friend still prefers wooden boat's
What a great series on Gel Coating for boat repair. Super instructional technique and understandable instructions. I am grateful for the information. My pristine Sea Fox CC got swept into a post and now has hope to be restored from some contact chips and scratches. Thank you.
Greeting from Finland. Thanks for these videos. Very informational, clear and interesting.
Darn I missed your time window on the questions for here. :(
I'll post it anyway since it might help others if it does get answered.
Caliber Yacht Sales ( local brokerage firm ) has a custom fiberglass yacht available, trans-ocean range. In the information on it they state this yacht is capable of doing the Northwest Passage, with the implication that it is the fact the hull is 6 inches thick is the reason.
I know a hull like on the current project ( thickness wise ) would not be a good option, but how thick would a hull have to be to have the strength to handle heavy ice conditions like you can expect for doing something like the Northwest Passage?
Would 3 inches of glass be enough? Less or More? Cored with foam as additional thickness?
Just so Andy gets an idea of how many people would be interested in the answer, leave a like on my comment if you would like to know.
Amazing channel!
Quick question: I have a fiberglass’s panel (over wood) that my motor vent is mounted to. This area has two water drains that release onto this panel with the intention that the water makes it to the engine sump. Problem...few areas have cracked allowing water to get underneath and exposing the wood. Some areas more than likely have rot. I intend to dig out any rotted areas then fill will mar glass then add a couple of layers of fiber glass. What type of resin should I use ( would paint after)?
Thanks in advance Dave
What sander do you use...I have a need for some non air tools these days
Thank you very much super video I can’t wait to see the other ones I will continue watching them it’s going to help me a lot to fix my boat to thank you keep on Super video
Come on Andy, we wanna see you spray the alexseal paint
Might be interesting to do a video with applying poly over epoxy and vis-a-versa to see if there is any noticable comprised strength loss or delamination. Etc.. I've heard of this issue but never ran into anyone who actually had an issue (or noticable issue). Great job!
I really loved this video! Instruction and info to learn is great! I'm going to rewatch this! THANKS AGAIN!
Hay Andy. Thank you for you channel . Because some of us would love to be patrion member but its all I can do to fund my project. Half the time . I have a 67 glastron carlson cv16. I have started my project with total boat products. Impticuler glass and Resin . I am really trying to figure out if I am using the right products for my job . I have finnsh the floor already. But I had to rebuild mt dash! Imparticular the steering wheel area . Thank you in advance for any info you are willing to share .
Hello Andy, Have you done any resin infusion, if not will you talk about it or do something to show it? Could be an alternative for the Bertram tramson?
Is it possible that the cracks are the result of wet or rotten wood stingers or stiffeners? I am working on an old boat with lots of cracks in the hull and transom. Most of them appear to be the result of improper storage as you mentioned but also appear to result from flex due to usage with rotten stringers
So does that mean Epoxy boats today are better than most of the vinyl ester boats? If that is so why does the majority of USA builders still use the stuff. Almost as if quality doesn't count anymore.
Great video, and you seem to like the pain.... Thank everything good that you do so we can learn from your expertise. ♥️
Your videos are just so informative. On a scientific level even. I own a steel cruiser 27 feet long , in Europa, I’ve put 7 layers of epoxy to protect my below the water line hull.this has almost nothing to do with fiber glass hulls. Still I enjoy every single video you put out. What a knowledge you have of the products that are out there , sir. Thank you
What part of the country are you located thanx
This should be interesting...
Man, that was alot of information you threw at us, in 14 minutes. But, looking forward to the work.
I wish I saw this earlier I've been trying to find the rolling reducer since you mentioned it last week and can't find it anywhere if you have a link you can toss in the description or something that would be awesome i need to paint and this seems ideal thank you in advance.
Best videos I’ve found!!!
Thanks for this Andy. Expect this series to answer lots of questions!! 🍿
Thank you very much!
Good tips!. I sent you an email concerning my project, let me know your thoughts please.
I keep a picture of you over my Fireplace! LOL You're the MAN!!
by far, best TEACHER on Boat RUclips
Does it make much diff between spraying paint hvlp vs rolling w/o tipping? I’d imagine hvlp would require many more coats?
Also I plan on joining your patrion for some personal attention from you with my project. What do you recommend having ready prior to our first communion? Thanks and I can’t wait!!
thank for the video
Thank you....as always a very useful video 😊👍
need paint stripper :P
Great work! Thanks for taking the time to make, film, edit and share.
2:00 mark......Great background music !
Thanks Andy. Looking forward to the following videos on this project. Can’t wait to try Alexseal on our sailboat. That’s if I can get it in Ontario. Cheers.
Pretty sure it's avail in your area; they have world wide distribution ;-)!
Can you please talk about the Bertram planning. Looking forward to this a lot
Went over that a little bit last week, on hold waiting for materials to ship but when they come in will be back on the Bertram :-)