Pro climber’s A2 pulley went POP! What next?
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- Опубликовано: 19 сен 2024
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It's a bit of a let down for this to happen, however there's nothing I can do no except rehab and get on with it. I was feeling so good and connected with my climbing and really just enjoying being out at the crag.
There's plenty of other things I wanted to climb and challenge myself with this year in climbing, but they are going to have to wait. It's time for the trails now.
Hopefully back to full steam by the beginning of next year.
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thanks, you unlocked a newfound fear: popped pulley because fate decides to.
Enjoy 😀.
I think, as I say toward the end, it was coming. I knew I was flying close to the sun with the longer projecting sessions. It was a matter of time and perhaps I’m lucky to have gotten away with it for that long haha
@@TomOHalloranAus thanks, fear has lessened but now fear of overtraining grows 🤣
Everyone at Tension is wishing you a speedy recovery! The Tension Board will be waiting for you with open arms upon your return ❤
As someone who recently popped my A2 too and was mad as hell about it, I'm glad that you helped get some perspective that life is way more than just climbing and that shit happens to everyone, even to the most skilled and strong climbers out there... Tk my dude, and that the rest of '24 be a great year for y'all, climbing or running into bushes :)
It can for sure be a let down, but it is what it is. We can’t un-injure. So we just move forward. Good luck on your recovery 💪
Wow I really appreciate the positivity and mature outlook in the face of injury - it's a good reminder for myself to be more well rounded as an athlete and as a hobbyist. Wishing you the speediest of recoveries!
Thanks mate. Very keen to get back on rock, but will enjoy the trails now. It’s very fun having other things in life that make you excited and happy
This is really poetic timing. Popped mine a few hours ago, also in a situation where i was feeling better than ever and close to a lot of my goals. It was very nice and helpful to get your thought process on such a situation! It definitely helps to view such relatively small injuries as opportunities to grow - even if that is outside of climbing. ;)
So cheers for your perspective and good luck with your injury!
Oh no! Well hope this is helpful. Yes, a great opportunity to look for other fun things in life. There’s plenty of them 😀. Good luck with your recovery
You got the right mindset, man! Popped my A4 half a year ago and went through the whole process. I never felt like there is a reason to be upset. There were so many things - within climbing - I had the opportunity to try out and learn. One-Armed finger lifts, assisted one-arm pull ups, learning to rehab and assess the progress. Maintenance work. Also reflecting the habits that lead to the injury opened up new doors. Never really stopped climbing, only adapting the level and getting the one finger out of the equation - surprised how hard you can climb with front two plus thumb.
Now my max strength went down (only) 10% compared to pre-injury. Back in no time. :-)
Wishing you a speedy recovery and loads of fun runs!
Make some trail running vids!
So crazy that it came out of nowhere like that. It's always when you're feeling the most psyched and keen to climb more and more that injury strikes. This is a good reminder for me to prioritise rest BEFORE things start hurting.
Haha I’d be tempted to make some running vids. But I don’t know if they’ll go down that well on a climbing channel.
Yes, rest is good. I’d been putting the breaks on in the lead up to the injury, however I partly think the damage was done. It was on the tightrope after having sessions which were too long (too much froth) and that move just tipped it over. Keeping sessions quality and short
Wishing you a speedy recovery! I'm also recovering from a finger injury, and your outlook really cheered me up. Thank you for making this!
Ahh no. Hope the recovery goes smoothly for you. Back at it soon 💪
I went from running for climbing, to running for running. Trail running is just so much fun. Enjoy the races, but hope you are back on the rocks soon.
Good on ya for a quick recovery mate. Just broke my wrist and had surgery so I can relate to the new horizons perspective. Great there was some success before this slight step back but all good things in time.
Ouch! Can’t imagine a wrist injury is comfortable. Hope you’re back at it soon 💪
Underclings are some of the most common holds to pop pulleys on. You can put an insane amount of force on your fingers depending on how much you're driving through your legs. So you in my head cannon you were just driving with your feet so savagely you overcame the strength of your finger. Good luck with recovery!!
Love the froth despite the setback. enjoy the Kiosko trail run and you’ll be back at it in no time.
Im not that freakeshly strong, i ^only” redpointed a couple 8b+ but i high grade ruptured both a2s in both of my ringfingers. All i can say that for me i recovered fully, my grip is stronger that ever, hands are robust and i do the Highest training workload ive ever done nowadays. Youre doing exactly the right thing by seing it as a opportunity and i dont think it will impede you in the long run. Dont get frustrated when the pain lingers a bit, though i was back to solid climbing After 2.5 months it took almost a year to go back to 100% for me… but everyone is different i Guess. All the best man!
They always go pop when you're climbing at your best! I did the climbing to trail run transition as well, it's fun but bloody time consuming. Good luck in the 30km!
All the best my guy! I know you will bounce back strong next year anyway!
Wish you a fast recovery mate! ❤
Thanks mate. Hoping so
Dude, I admire your positivity.
Gotta push into the good stuff 😀
I've blown so many pulleys over the years and always found climbing on large open hand sloper jugs was the best rehab. Injuries like this always allowed me to focus on building power. Good luck with the rehab...
Thanks mate. Yeah I’ll be getting onto those grips asap. Gotta get it to a less vulnerable point first. Keen to climb again
Great attitude to injury. Get well soon.
Thanks mate. Can’t wait to get back on rock
Great video Tom! I really resonate with what you’ve said here. For ages, I was super frightened of getting injured and losing my one and only rewarding hobby (climbing). But when I injured my wrist a month ago I had a similar realisation: We don’t lose the froth for doing all physical/fun/rewarding activities just because we can’t specifically climb. You just need to channel the froth into different stuff/hobbies/activities. For me, it came pretty natural to get into cycling while rehabbing the wrist. I definitely had a few weeks of being depressed about losing climbing for at least a month, but before I knew it, I was just as frothed on cycling as climbing. Now I’m excited to now be part of both once the wrist heals.
Injury can put things in a different perspective that way.
Yes totally! I think if we have the ability to deep dive and love one thing, it’s fairly likely we’d enjoy another haha. I can imagine the cycling rabbit hole could be quite fun. Enjoy 😀
I hope you recover as soon as possible and you cash go back to climbing. Get well soon
Thanks mate. Hoping I’ll be back soon 😀
much love to you brother. You are handling this so well. Enjoy the trail running and keep on the rehab. Consistency, slow and steady, and you will be back crushing it on the wall in 2025!
Thanks mate. Always something else fun to do. Keen to get back to the rocks in the new year 😀
Good luck Tom! You'll be back before you know it! I bet in 4-6 months You'll be doing a video on the positive effect trail running has had on your climbing fitness! 😅
Geting even more lean💪
Haha that video has been floating in the back of my mind for 6months now. Time to make it 😀😂
Some very good points here to learn. I have very hard time whenever i get injury. Youre an inspiration💪
Thanks mate, glad it was helpful. Lots of fun things out there in the world. We can miss them sometimes when we are hyper focused on one.
I popped my A2 back in May so I completely get it lol. I shifted to cycling! More because I also have a swollen ankle and shoulder tendinitis so it’s what I can still be active
Offt that’s a nasty little run of injuries. Cycling would be a fun rabbit hole to dive down. Lots of fun gear and data to nerd out on. Plus the feeling of whizzing along. Hard to beat 😀
Very sad to hear, best of luck in your recovery. Had a friend have this happen to them and they sent V10 outdoors for the first time a month after recovery ended.
Thanks. Keen to get back to the fun stuff asap 😀
Damn it, I hope it heals fast Tom!
Thanks mate. Fingers crossed. Enjoying the ‘down’ time for now though 😀
Totally agree - the question isn't what can't you do, it's what can you do? What's the opportunity? Also encouraging to hear that as an elite climber there's a lot more to your life than climbing! I've got a weird nerve injury so I'm aiming to run 10km for the first time and trying to smash some deadlift PBs.
100%. There’s so many cool things to do in the world. Sounds awesome about the 10k. Enjoy that one 😀. And best of luck with the deadlifts 💪
Anecdotally, it feels like crimp underclings tend to put a crazy amount of strain on my fingers, more so than any other hold besides pockets. I wonder if there are any biomechanics of the move/hold combo that seems to exacerbate injury for fingers (and perhaps wrist).
I’m with you there. Of all the finger pops I’ve heard about, the underclings ugly head is often there. There must be something weird going on. Or perhaps they’re just so infrequently used we don’t have the little stabilisers and strength in the same way
Great point about letting the sessions run too long
Yeah, I think that could be the main contributor. Rookie error, but all good 😀
I was out for a year ..... i feel your pain😢😮😮😅
Ouch. That sucks. Hoping it won’t be that long. There’s a lot of fun running I could do though haha
bro me too, so unlucky :c
Urgh bummer. Hope we’re both back in action soon, better than ever 😀💪
It only really starts to suck when you suffer a running injury and also can’t run any more.
Haha I hadn’t even thought of that. That would suck
Collab with Vlad Ixel for trail running next? 😆
Haha I’d totally be up for that!