I have been servicing Yamahas for 35 years now and you are making this job way to hard. First never had a Yamaha lower gearcase that I had to pay off even salt water motors, a little tap on the cavitation plate with the palm of your hand or a comp mallet gets them right off. Leave one bolt threaded in a short distance to keep the gearcase from falling. The retainer on top of the impeller is easily removed by using a small heal bar or large flat blade and a block of wood and working around the collar it comes right off no special tools required in turn tapping back down I use a 7/8" box end wrench works like a charm. Removing the key is also easy, I never have had to drill one out. Use a 1/4" flat punch to drive the bottom of the key in and the top of key will come out. Now the key has been dislodged take a #3 flat blade screw driver and drive down on the key. It has to be dull no chisels and it will come right out if they're not too tight I use a pair of end nips and grab it with downward movement and it's out. To install it use a small ball peen to start the key and finish up with your flat punch. Yamaha uses adhesive to set there orings and the cup liners grease makes a mess and doesn't secure the orings around the cover when rotating the impeller into the housing. I use 3M 847 rubber adhesive for this job. Use a very small amount in the groove install the oring and give a few minutes to cure. I can't tell you how many times I have found the oring pinched or torn and the motor was getting a over heat warning. Lastly a little silicone spray on the inside of the impeller let's it slide right on. I coat the Inside of the housing and impeller with glyserin available at Walmart makes rubber very slippery and it's water soluble and washes out on startup. Grease doesn't wash out can attack the impeller and at the lake Sand can mix with it and gum up the pump with abrasive. By the way only use spline grease on spline's. I have been a Yamaha tech sense 1984 when Yamaha outboards first came to the USA. and this is what has worked for me
Very nice to read someone who knows what he is doing and does not make things so hard, I tried to replace a impeller and made a mess of it by using Permatex to hold things like the O-ring in, but I was working on a 1997 Evinrude Oceanpro which is a bear as far as I was concerned, spent a lot of money and still had to take it to the shop, could not get the linkage hooked back up to save me. I have so much respect for mechanics,I can quote law and enforce it but I cannot work on an impeller.Thanks for the input.
@@1DesertCop Evinrude and Johnson shift shafts are the hardest to reinstall and not for the DYI guys, some model's are difficult even for a experienced tech.
Any thoughts on deleting the oil system on a 90 200hp yam? It failed and almost blew my engine up. Can I just take the drive part out of the pump and leave all the hoses connected ?
Excellent video. I watched it twice and then replaced the water pump in my Yamaha F150 without any hiccups. Thanks Marine Tech Tools. Much appreciated.
The other video's I watched (and unfortunately went by) did not mention the Wave Washer between the two Plate Washers OR the importance of lifting the drive shaft while setting the Drive Shaft Collar.Luckily I haven't put the boat in the water so I am going to take it back apart and fix things.Thank You so much for having such a detailed video.
So I decided to tackle the 100 hrs/Annual service myself (2015 Sportsman 251 Heritage 2x Yamaha F150). After watching a couple of your videos, i started, a bit of a learning curve but I am pretty good at figuring things out. Everything I did on one engine took me less than half the time on the second, figures, confidence level is up! Everything went as shown on the video. All the bolts removed were wire brushed and threads cleaned with a drill with a SS wire brush (cheap at Harbor freight tools as you will ruin them). They were fighting me coming out but then putting them back in was piece of cake, hand tight then torque wrench. Looked up all the torque settings. Clearly the last mech did not do that and didn't grease the bolts. Patience was need to remove the collar a bobo et the impeller but about 10 minutes and done. But here is were your video really saved me from going nuts, the woodruff key. On the first engine it would not budge. Then I remembered your trick, drilled it some, took the air hammer ti it and out she went, fantastic trick, would have never thought of it myself. Second engine when i made the mark to drill the key moved and got it out easier. Your video is right on and the best i have seen, followed your instructions and done. 12 hours total, yes I am slow but at the current shop prices and buying my own parts (all Yamaha) I'm in it for about $600 versus my local dealer would have charged me about $2,000. This includes: thermostat and gasket, fuel water separator, fuel filter, oil filter, oil for engine and lower unit, pump for lower unit, water pump kit complete with housing ( mine were bad!). Last years service at the dealer cost me $1,800. Your video Rock! Thank you.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH! I have watched video after video on how to get these apart and everybody talks about the 7 bolts but not the 8th one. I have been trying to get mine apart for hours until I seen you talk about the 8th bolt and sure as crud I had a 8th bolt! I removed it and it fell apart!!!! Thank you!!!!
Thanks for this video. I just bought a 1999 pontoon boat with a 1994 Yamaha 115 V4 and I had to replace the totally fried water pump. Took it out for a test run today and it ran amazingly well. Very helpful info in here!
Brobins75 got it right when he said use a Drexel and cut it up the middle. I tried pb blaster,tapping both ends to loose it, I drilled it and I finally tried cutting it with a Dremel. It doesn't leave a lot on either side to grab so I used a very thin wedge and tapped the sides in with that. No damage to the key way either!
A PVC pipe with an interior diameter of 1" worked like a charm to get that washer collar seated by the way. Pull up on the drive shaft while pushing down with the PVC pipe and it seated perfectly.
Great video. Those woodruff keys can definitely be a bear. Had one that actually sheared flush with the shaft & had to drill and dremel, after hitting it with PB blaster. My only comment would be to place rags underneath when drilling so the filings do not fall into the chambers. I realize the bearings are still encased, but still prefer to keep these areas clean. Thanks for posting
I am currently trying to remove my woodruff key. Same issue. Totally sheared off and appears to be welded in and not removeable. I am currently slowly using dremel cutting discs to create a place for the new woodruff key. What a hassle.
Used a hefty cold chisel and ball pein hammer to gently tap it out. The chisel does the heavy lifting. When it comes loose grab key with pliers and use hammer to finish removing it. Water pump kit has new key. Grease the slot and the key before replacing. Only issue I had was the large o ring for the white cover did not want to stay in place because of newness. When I rotated shaft replacing housing it went on smoothly and snug. I did not see any sign of o ring protruding around the paper gasket.
Your video was EXCELLENT! Very good walkthrough on every important detail...It helped me tremendously...New water pump and all new seals....Never worked better.. Thanks!
To remove the woodruff key on my 115, I used a small jewelers screwdriver and a hammer, The screwdriver was narrow enough to fit in the slot behind the key & after a few taps with the hammer, I was able to pry the key out.
Regarding the wire cutters, are you saying to hold the cutters upside-down/vertically (handles up), then grab the top of the key and pry it out? Sound like a great idea.
no grease in cup! it whips up, never washes away, and collects sand! also the key shouldnt be that hard. if it is, maybe use a dremel w a cutoff wheel to slit the center of the key, then a pair of visegrips will crush it and it will fall out....
Great video showing the steps. One question I have regarding the seals in that old water pump housing. The drive shaft has a groove which appears to have been caused by the old seals. Would it have been better to replace that housing with a new one that has new seals in it?
I’ve had luck with the key with taking a pair of vice grips, welding on a nut at the adjustment end, and screwing in a small slide hammer. Snap it on and yank it out.
nice job. but 2 things.... im pretty much an idiot, so correct me if im wrong... 1. Are u sure u want to use grease inside the cup? MAYBE around the o-rings, but have you seen what happens to a little bit of grease once the impeller whips it up inside the cup? It turns into butter, which can possibly clog s*** up.... i sometimes use dish soap inside the cup and it will just wash away. maybe im going overboard. 2. howz about using a punch on the key and give it a good whack a few times. i know its frozen sometimes. thats when i get out the dremmel and grinding small grinding disk and grind a slit right down the middle of the key. Then grip w a pair of vise grips and "crush" it in half. works perfect and no nicking the shaft. it instantly falls out.... but good job and thorough.
Man changing the waterpump on my 2002 honda outboard 13 years later was still a breeze .Now i have a Yamaha and it looks like it could be a Real Pain!!.Good Video think you should have put some rags in the water intake before drilling .Those metal shavings are going to get sucked up into the new impeller
I advocate using never seize on all bolts. The 4 water pump housing bolts and the 7-8 lower housing bolts should be coated with never seize. The bolt into the trim tab could be lubed with die electric but not never seize or grease. It must transmit electricity.
Thanks for the video, it's good to know what I'm up for so I can decide if I will do it myself or take it to a dealer. It's a big thumbs up from me. Rick
Good video, very informative but for a professional shop I am surprised not to see a spray can of penetrating fluid, a can of anti-seize lubricant, or a parts cleaner sink, and a brass hammer to knock in the woodrift key.
could you take a small triangle file and cut a shallow channel on side of woodruff key to allow any excess grease or air to escape? Why did you leave the propellor on? That is a little extra weight you didn't need to fight. You must have a reason.
Talk about not scratching paint When re installing the drive but Yes just slide that drive onto those forks with no carpet, scratch that customers paint! Yeah buddy!
I got stuck when my woodruff key won't budge; it required major surgery! Question: how do you get the orings on the housing to stay in place when reassembling? My orings are real loose and will not stay in place. Should I use a spray adhesive or Permatex material to hold it in place? Thanks.
If the key is stuck, I read that you can use a Dremmel to cut a slot down the center of the key, then squeeze the two halves together and the key will pop right out. Need to be careful not to cut too deep and cut the shaft.
"Compartilhando conhecimento"isso se chama. Claro que todas as dicas,macetes etc são bem aceitas...mas,a técnica de aplicação nos serviços muda de cada profissional,cada um tem sua maneira.
Do not put to mutch grease on the bolts the air in the bolt holes can build up kinetic energy and crack the alumin(i)um! and instead of grease on the rubber impeller use vaseline it stays in place longer and wont not hurt marine life
I broke my speedometer cable fitting yesterday. What happens if I left that just broke off because when I lowered it into the bucket after changing the water pump I had oil in the water and on the foot at the waterline. Is it because I did not replace that fitting and just left it open. Can oil come out of that fitting and can I since I do not use a speedometer and it is blocked off just plug it? Rather than purchase the fittings for the speedometer cable I never use. I only ran the motor a few minutes in the bucket to test the water pump saw the oil and stopped.
Great video, Thanks for this. I do have a question about the water pipe to impeller housing seal; 2008 f200, there are 2 parts diagrams for lower unit. 1 shows a rubber sleeve that goes in the housing outlet (damper seal 1) and then the plastic guide with the side pins. (Parts #22 and 23 on diagram 1) Diagram 2 shows parts # 1 and 2. another rubber sleeve(seal)#1 and an additional rubber tube with a wider too and bottom ( like a sewing spool with a hole through the center. #2 But my engine only has the rubber sleeve and plastic with 2 side pins. Item on lower unit diagram 2 part #6E5-44366-01-00 #2 on diagram is completely missing on my engine and on every impeller video ive watched on youtube. ???? Was this an ungraded superceded part over the years? Or are people just leaving out part 6E5-44366-01-00 for some other reason?
If you have to replace the housing, is the seal for the water pickup installed inside the housing already or is it a separate purchase? 2015 Yamaha 200.
Excellent video and excellent comments. This is great for those of us needing to see this done. The first time I had my impeller replaced by a mechanic we had a rattle. They fixed the rattle. Did it myself this time, same thing, I have a rattle. Not sure if it's from not pulling on the shaft hard enough to get the play out or how far down I need to tap that piece on top of the impeller when pulling on it. Any suggestions would be great.
Translation: 1st verbatim: "super video and thank you for doing this. i will do the same thing on my Yamaha V4 115hp". 2nd meaning: " Super video thanks for making it. I'll do the same on my Yamaha V4 115hp." That's the best translating French-English I can do. I might be wrong on the tense on the second sentence, it may read "I have done" verses "I will do"; I think it's future tense.
Really professional video. That woodruff key seems like a crappy design - no? (shouldn’t have to hammer, heat - drill on the drive shaft) as a standard practice.
on that boat, is water supposed to go in and out of the back splashwell and kind of self drain, or is it supposed to the sealed off with drain plugs... I have an 86 bayliner that is made that way, and water comes in there.
by the way, at 8:19 that is NOT a 'puller' it IS a slide_Hammer, a puller uses hydraulic or screw force to remove parts, aka think of it in the guise of a portable shop press.
That thought crossed my mind too... take off the damned prop to make it lighter! Also, it would probably be a good idea to grease the splines on the prop shaft too.
If the speedometer tube is broke will it stop the pee function when flushing? Is there video on replacing the speedometer hose? Ours is broke off right where it goes into the lower housing.
After doing this, a couple of things: 1) It is not necessary to replace the woodruff key. It is not worth the effort. 2) The metal cartridge is held in with RTV from the factory making it near impossible to remove. It may be best to buy a new housing without the cartridge the first time you do this. Also, the factory manual calls for gasket maker around the perimeter of the mating face of the lower unit. There appeared to be a very light coating of this the first time the unit was removed. None of these DIY videos mention this. I skipped it. The factory manual also specs Loctite 572 for the bolts. I could not find this anywhere near where I live. I used another brand medium hold thread locker. Sliding every thing back on my 2016 F115 was easy. Just watch the gearshift shaft. It is possible to have the lower unit mate up with that shaft not engaged. Don't ask me how I know. Anyway, I have water coming out the pee hole so I assume I did it right. This video was very helpful.
I was not able to replace the metal plate or the gasket without removing the woodruff key first. However, the woodruff key was a total disaster and I wish I had never messed with it.
GREAT Videos....Thank you from the DIY preventive maintenance folks.... question does a freshwater static\cold flush travel through ALL the same passages as a warm\earmuff engine running flush?
Excellent video as always!! Keep the good work... I have done this to my F40, but left it to neutral. After reinstalled the lower unit, the prop is stuck. Doesn't move left or right. What can I do? Thanks
That must be a saltwater motor. I think you guys making these how to videos of how to change a impeller need to learn a little about anti seize and grease. All bolt threads, woodruff keys trim tab seats and bolts. Steel and aluminum with H2 O make galvanic corrosion. Anti seize on those collars and pump housing. Sorry, but you make it look and sound a lot harder than it is.
Quick question, on the Speedo tube that is near the shift shaft, if I do not replace the hose back onto that, will that cause serious issues? I don’t even use the route that goes into the Yamaha digital gauges, so I was wondering if I could bypass putting that back on. I’m sure I just need to put it back on but when working by myself it’s hard to get the route put back on the nipple, and get a zip tie on it so I’m just wondering how important that is. Thanks.
I am a fiberglass and refinishing guy and I don’t mess with any engines other than my own so that’s why I don’t know, I am pretty clueless for the most part when it comes to outboards. I did do the whole repair of all the oil seals using your tool on my own 2003 ox66 so I was competent enough to at least do the seals.
If you put heat on the key it will come off. If the key is seized it's because of heating issues which reacts with the metallurgy molecules similar to a friction weld. However heat or using a blow torch will also reverse the molecules so it can be removed but all grease and other material should be cleaned first. Heating may destroy gaskets and other soft components but in this case they need to be replaced anyways. Allot of shafts cases that use keys are intentionally heated so they stay in place with high rpm shaft speeds. Why are you not putting grease on the shaft? The old grease should be removed and new grease should be applied. If you do not grease the shaft it could seize up or wear allot quicker. Grease should be placed all around the impeller wear plate because when you initially crank the engine up the impeller has zero water. If not the impeller will wear allot quicker and the grease is going to do nothing but help lubricate.
It’s a mini pull clutch mate. They’re on various cars. Essentially you push the metal top cover down at the same time as you push the clips up into top cover. Then pull the whole thing up. Never bought one. They’re reusable. They are a pain till you get the knack. Good luck.
In another video, a guy uses two sockets on opposite sides of the shaft as fulcrom points, then uses a small screwdriver to gently pry/rock the collar off. Looked pretty simple.
After installing the water pump on vf115, and reinstalling the lower unit. I put the motor in the water, I'm getting water and exhaust in the shift tube. Is this normal? where did I go wrong?
I have been servicing Yamahas for 35 years now and you are making this job way to hard. First never had a Yamaha lower gearcase that I had to pay off even salt water motors, a little tap on the cavitation plate with the palm of your hand or a comp mallet gets them right off. Leave one bolt threaded in a short distance to keep the gearcase from falling. The retainer on top of the impeller is easily removed by using a small heal bar or large flat blade and a block of wood and working around the collar it comes right off no special tools required in turn tapping back down I use a 7/8" box end wrench works like a charm.
Removing the key is also easy, I never have had to drill one out. Use a 1/4" flat punch to drive the bottom of the key in and the top of key will come out. Now the key has been dislodged take a #3 flat blade screw driver and drive down on the key. It has to be dull no chisels and it will come right out if they're not too tight I use a pair of end nips and grab it with downward movement and it's out. To install it use a small ball peen to start the key and finish up with your flat punch.
Yamaha uses adhesive to set there orings and the cup liners grease makes a mess and doesn't secure the orings around the cover when rotating the impeller into the housing. I use 3M 847 rubber adhesive for this job. Use a very small amount in the groove install the oring and give a few minutes to cure. I can't tell you how many times I have found the oring pinched or torn and the motor was getting a over heat warning.
Lastly a little silicone spray on the inside of the impeller let's it slide right on. I coat the Inside of the housing and impeller with glyserin available at Walmart makes rubber very slippery and it's water soluble and washes out on startup. Grease doesn't wash out can attack the impeller and at the lake Sand can mix with it and gum up the pump with abrasive.
By the way only use spline grease on spline's.
I have been a Yamaha tech sense 1984 when Yamaha outboards first came to the USA. and this is what has worked for me
Very nice to read someone who knows what he is doing and does not make things so hard, I tried to replace a impeller and made a mess of it by using Permatex to hold things like the O-ring in, but I was working on a 1997 Evinrude Oceanpro which is a bear as far as I was concerned, spent a lot of money and still had to take it to the shop, could not get the linkage hooked back up to save me. I have so much respect for mechanics,I can quote law and enforce it but I cannot work on an impeller.Thanks for the input.
@@1DesertCop Evinrude and Johnson shift shafts are the hardest to reinstall and not for the DYI guys, some model's are difficult even for a experienced tech.
You are right about that
Any thoughts on deleting the oil system on a 90 200hp yam? It failed and almost blew my engine up. Can I just take the drive part out of the pump and leave all the hoses connected ?
@@stevestonacek7128 The Yamaha shit shaft took me hours and hours, two mechanics on the phone, and finally a helper.
Thankyou for the video, you gave me the cofidence to do my very first water pump change ever and I have been boating for 3 decades
Excellent video. I watched it twice and then replaced the water pump in my Yamaha F150 without any hiccups. Thanks Marine Tech Tools. Much appreciated.
The work you did on the impeller plate with the hammer had me grinding my teeth
The other video's I watched (and unfortunately went by) did not mention the Wave Washer between the two Plate Washers OR the importance of lifting the drive shaft while setting the Drive Shaft Collar.Luckily I haven't put the boat in the water so I am going to take it back apart and fix things.Thank You so much for having such a detailed video.
So I decided to tackle the 100 hrs/Annual service myself (2015 Sportsman 251 Heritage 2x Yamaha F150). After watching a couple of your videos, i started, a bit of a learning curve but I am pretty good at figuring things out. Everything I did on one engine took me less than half the time on the second, figures, confidence level is up! Everything went as shown on the video. All the bolts removed were wire brushed and threads cleaned with a drill with a SS wire brush (cheap at Harbor freight tools as you will ruin them). They were fighting me coming out but then putting them back in was piece of cake, hand tight then torque wrench. Looked up all the torque settings. Clearly the last mech did not do that and didn't grease the bolts. Patience was need to remove the collar a bobo et the impeller but about 10 minutes and done. But here is were your video really saved me from going nuts, the woodruff key. On the first engine it would not budge. Then I remembered your trick, drilled it some, took the air hammer ti it and out she went, fantastic trick, would have never thought of it myself. Second engine when i made the mark to drill the key moved and got it out easier. Your video is right on and the best i have seen, followed your instructions and done. 12 hours total, yes I am slow but at the current shop prices and buying my own parts (all Yamaha) I'm in it for about $600 versus my local dealer would have charged me about $2,000. This includes: thermostat and gasket, fuel water separator, fuel filter, oil filter, oil for engine and lower unit, pump for lower unit, water pump kit complete with housing ( mine were bad!). Last years service at the dealer cost me $1,800. Your video Rock! Thank you.
Great video, particularly as you have recorded small errors which help us viewers understand what we could be up against and how to correct. Thank you
THANK YOU VERY MUCH! I have watched video after video on how to get these apart and everybody talks about the 7 bolts but not the 8th one. I have been trying to get mine apart for hours until I seen you talk about the 8th bolt and sure as crud I had a 8th bolt! I removed it and it fell apart!!!! Thank you!!!!
Thanks for this video. I just bought a 1999 pontoon boat with a 1994 Yamaha 115 V4 and I had to replace the totally fried water pump. Took it out for a test run today and it ran amazingly well. Very helpful info in here!
Brobins75 got it right when he said use a Drexel and cut it up the middle. I tried pb blaster,tapping both ends to loose it, I drilled it and I finally tried cutting it with a Dremel. It doesn't leave a lot on either side to grab so I used a very thin wedge and tapped the sides in with that. No damage to the key way either!
A PVC pipe with an interior diameter of 1" worked like a charm to get that washer collar seated by the way. Pull up on the drive shaft while pushing down with the PVC pipe and it seated perfectly.
Great video. Those woodruff keys can definitely be a bear. Had one that actually sheared flush with the shaft & had to drill and dremel, after hitting it with PB blaster. My only comment would be to place rags underneath when drilling so the filings do not fall into the chambers. I realize the bearings are still encased, but still prefer to keep these areas clean. Thanks for posting
I am currently trying to remove my woodruff key. Same issue. Totally sheared off and appears to be welded in and not removeable. I am currently slowly using dremel cutting discs to create a place for the new woodruff key. What a hassle.
Thank you for a detailed tutorial, I am having the same issues with my woodruff key. I appreciate your videos. Thanks again.
Way more detailed than this other video by some good ol' boy. Nice work. Plan to take my first water pump repair on my F250 this weekend.
Dino Simotas ＂
I have found that a 3" C Clamp works great pressing the woodruff key into place
Best video for this I've found, thank you for showing lil complication areas too, top notch video, Mahalo!
Still the best video for pump change out.. Great job...
best you tube video series ever.
I agree with Steve with everything he mentioned/suggested. But I have to add, Pull the prop. When your my age you will!
Used a hefty cold chisel and ball pein hammer to gently tap it out. The chisel does the heavy lifting. When it comes loose grab key with pliers and use hammer to finish removing it.
Water pump kit has new key. Grease the slot and the key before replacing. Only issue I had was the large o ring for the white cover did not want to stay in place because of newness. When I rotated shaft replacing housing it went on smoothly and snug. I did not see any sign of o ring protruding around the paper gasket.
Your video was EXCELLENT! Very good walkthrough on every important detail...It helped me tremendously...New water pump and all new seals....Never worked better.. Thanks!
Thank you. Your attention to detail was so very helpful. First repair to my 2009 Yamaha 115 complete 😁👍
To remove the woodruff key on my 115, I used a small jewelers screwdriver and a hammer, The screwdriver was narrow enough to fit in the slot behind the key & after a few taps with the hammer, I was able to pry the key out.
Jeff Bowers you should grab it from above with a wire cutter to pry out the key
Regarding the wire cutters, are you saying to hold the cutters upside-down/vertically (handles up), then grab the top of the key and pry it out? Sound like a great idea.
Great video. Clear concise and accurate. Thank you.
no grease in cup! it whips up, never washes away, and collects sand! also the key shouldnt be that hard. if it is, maybe use a dremel w a cutoff wheel to slit the center of the key, then a pair of visegrips will crush it and it will fall out....
just realized i commented same thing on this 9 mos ago:)
Maybe use a water-soluble grease?
@@szinski I Just use a little dish soap. Lubricated great and washes away immediately
Very good tutorial it really helped me a lot brother thanks god bless you
Never seen anyone need to beat the key in. Nice scratches on your new plate.
Yamaha's keys are very tight and are quite often destroyed when removing them that's why they include one in the pump kit
Great video showing the steps. One question I have regarding the seals in that old water pump housing. The drive shaft has a groove which appears to have been caused by the old seals. Would it have been better to replace that housing with a new one that has new seals in it?
I’ve had luck with the key with taking a pair of vice grips, welding on a nut at the adjustment end, and screwing in a small slide hammer. Snap it on and yank it out.
Well after watching you I was going to do the job myself but now I’m taking it to my local shop 175 doesn’t sound that bad after watching you thanks
nice job. but 2 things.... im pretty much an idiot, so correct me if im wrong...
1. Are u sure u want to use grease inside the cup?
MAYBE around the o-rings, but have you seen what happens to a little bit of grease once the impeller whips it up inside the cup? It turns into butter, which can possibly clog s*** up.... i sometimes use dish soap inside the cup and it will just wash away. maybe im going overboard.
2. howz about using a punch on the key and give it a good whack a few times. i know its frozen sometimes. thats when i get out the dremmel and grinding small grinding disk and grind a slit right down the middle of the key. Then grip w a pair of vise grips and "crush" it in half. works perfect and no nicking the shaft. it instantly falls out....
but good job and thorough.
+1, I Iike the soap idea for this!
Man changing the waterpump on my 2002 honda outboard 13 years later was still a breeze .Now i have a Yamaha and it looks like it could be a Real Pain!!.Good Video think you should have put some rags in the water intake before drilling .Those metal shavings are going to get sucked up into the new impeller
The best method I have found with woodruff keys is using a set of sidecutters
I advocate using never seize on all bolts. The 4 water pump housing bolts and the 7-8 lower housing bolts should be coated with never seize.
The bolt into the trim tab could be lubed with die electric but not never seize or grease. It must transmit electricity.
"Gawd dam!" Lol. Sounds like me. Great video.
thanks for a great video. I will be doing this in a few hours, so this is really helpful.
Awesome video & ive had to pry motors off several times , nice job 👍👍👍👍
Thanks for the video, it's good to know what I'm up for so I can decide if I will do it myself or take it to a dealer. It's a big thumbs up from me. Rick
Great detail in this video. The part # for the kit would be great man.
Good video, very informative but for a professional shop I am surprised not to see a spray can of penetrating fluid, a can of anti-seize lubricant, or a parts cleaner sink, and a brass hammer to knock in the woodrift key.
OUTSTANDING step by step. Thank you very much!!!
Why replace the key if not rusted or damaged?
One could make a 1 hour video on re-installing the lower unit. Alignment of the shift linkage can make one curse like a drunken sailor.
LOL...... yes... yes it can, and has!
could you take a small triangle file and cut a shallow channel on side of woodruff key to allow any excess grease or air to escape? Why did you leave the propellor on? That is a little extra weight you didn't need to fight. You must have a reason.
Talk about not scratching paint When re installing the drive but Yes just slide that drive onto those forks with no carpet, scratch that customers paint! Yeah buddy!
Can confirm that Yamaha woodruff keys absolutely such
Thank you!! very good information for me to work on my motor
I got stuck when my woodruff key won't budge; it required major surgery! Question: how do you get the orings on the housing to stay in place when reassembling? My orings are real loose and will not stay in place. Should I use a spray adhesive or Permatex material to hold it in place? Thanks.
If the key is stuck, I read that you can use a Dremmel to cut a slot down the center of the key, then squeeze the two halves together and the key will pop right out. Need to be careful not to cut too deep and cut the shaft.
"Compartilhando conhecimento"isso se chama. Claro que todas as dicas,macetes etc são bem aceitas...mas,a técnica de aplicação nos serviços muda de cada profissional,cada um tem sua maneira.
Do not put to mutch grease on the bolts the air in the bolt holes can build up kinetic energy and crack the alumin(i)um! and instead of grease on the rubber impeller use vaseline it stays in place longer and wont not hurt marine life
I broke my speedometer cable fitting yesterday. What happens if I left that just broke off because when I lowered it into the bucket after changing the water pump I had oil in the water and on the foot at the waterline. Is it because I did not replace that fitting and just left it open. Can oil come out of that fitting and can I since I do not use a speedometer and it is blocked off just plug it? Rather than purchase the fittings for the speedometer cable I never use. I only ran the motor a few minutes in the bucket to test the water pump saw the oil and stopped.
Great video, Thanks for this. I do have a question about the water pipe to impeller housing seal; 2008 f200, there are 2 parts diagrams for lower unit. 1 shows a rubber sleeve that goes in the housing outlet (damper seal 1) and then the plastic guide with the side pins. (Parts #22 and 23 on diagram 1) Diagram 2 shows parts # 1 and 2. another rubber sleeve(seal)#1 and an additional rubber tube with a wider too and bottom ( like a sewing spool with a hole through the center. #2 But my engine only has the rubber sleeve and plastic with 2 side pins. Item on lower unit diagram 2 part #6E5-44366-01-00 #2 on diagram is completely missing on my engine and on every impeller video ive watched on youtube. ???? Was this an ungraded superceded part over the years? Or are people just leaving out part 6E5-44366-01-00 for some other reason?
If you have to replace the housing, is the seal for the water pickup installed inside the housing already or is it a separate purchase? 2015 Yamaha 200.
Excellent video and excellent comments. This is great for those of us needing to see this done. The first time I had my impeller replaced by a mechanic we had a rattle. They fixed the rattle. Did it myself this time, same thing, I have a rattle. Not sure if it's from not pulling on the shaft hard enough to get the play out or how far down I need to tap that piece on top of the impeller when pulling on it. Any suggestions would be great.
a pair of end cutters works great on the key
super vidéo et merci de l'avoir fait. je dois faire la même chose sur mon Yamaha V4 115 hp.
Translation: 1st verbatim: "super video and thank you for doing this. i will do the same thing on my Yamaha V4 115hp". 2nd meaning: " Super video thanks for making it. I'll do the same on my Yamaha V4 115hp." That's the best translating French-English I can do. I might be wrong on the tense on the second sentence, it may read "I have done" verses "I will do"; I think it's future tense.
Great video, very clear and understandable. Congrats.....
A try using a date which is a pair of diagonal cutter pliers
Really professional video. That woodruff key seems like a crappy design - no? (shouldn’t have to hammer, heat - drill on the drive shaft) as a standard practice.
Agreed. My key was literally fused to the shaft. Currently using a dremel cutting disk to slowly create a new slot for the key. What a mess.
For the love of god, dont use metal screw driver to pry lower unit.
on that boat, is water supposed to go in and out of the back splashwell and kind of self drain, or is it supposed to the sealed off with drain plugs... I have an 86 bayliner that is made that way, and water comes in there.
by the way, at 8:19 that is NOT a 'puller' it IS a slide_Hammer, a puller uses hydraulic or screw force to remove parts, aka think of it in the guise of a portable shop press.
Who don't you remove prop before removing lower unit? It would make removing and installing lower unit soooo much lighter
That thought crossed my mind too... take off the damned prop to make it lighter! Also, it would probably be a good idea to grease the splines on the prop shaft too.
If the speedometer tube is broke will it stop the pee function when flushing? Is there video on replacing the speedometer hose? Ours is broke off right where it goes into the lower housing.
One thing I painfully discovered is the gear tube can misalign even though you're so sure all went as planned
I have water coming out of the exhaust at idle. Any idea which component could cause this? I have a 2019 Yamaha F150TXR
After doing this, a couple of things: 1) It is not necessary to replace the woodruff key. It is not worth the effort. 2) The metal cartridge is held in with RTV from the factory making it near impossible to remove. It may be best to buy a new housing without the cartridge the first time you do this. Also, the factory manual calls for gasket maker around the perimeter of the mating face of the lower unit. There appeared to be a very light coating of this the first time the unit was removed. None of these DIY videos mention this. I skipped it. The factory manual also specs Loctite 572 for the bolts. I could not find this anywhere near where I live. I used another brand medium hold thread locker. Sliding every thing back on my 2016 F115 was easy. Just watch the gearshift shaft. It is possible to have the lower unit mate up with that shaft not engaged. Don't ask me how I know. Anyway, I have water coming out the pee hole so I assume I did it right. This video was very helpful.
I was not able to replace the metal plate or the gasket without removing the woodruff key first. However, the woodruff key was a total disaster and I wish I had never messed with it.
What they really need to do is make the gasket and friction plate replaceable without having to remove the woodruff key. This is the way.
Excellent video!
GREAT Videos....Thank you from the DIY preventive maintenance folks.... question does a freshwater static\cold flush travel through ALL the same passages as a warm\earmuff engine running flush?
Great job, well done. Thanks for the info.
Great Video. Can you tell me what type of grease are you using on the rubber parts?
I am worried about compatibility issues.
Maybe I missed it. When disassembling is the gear shift lever left in nuetral?
you can use a wrench to push down on collar
milky licker or a thrust washer for the prop shaft makes a nice installation tool.
Yep big cresent wrench
Fine job showing us how to over haul the water pump
Great video series thank you for sharing this info!
I can’t get the spacer or collar off even with your tool. I’ve hit it pretty hard and still nothing. Suggestions?
Thank you sir. Very helpful.
Its an ok vif. Missed a few yhings that he shouldnt have but better than nothing got some major points accross. In id say 7/10
Nice video. Thanks
Excellent video as always!! Keep the good work... I have done this to my F40, but left it to neutral. After reinstalled the lower unit, the prop is stuck. Doesn't move left or right. What can I do? Thanks
Tare it back down and fix it right. Sounds like the spines are not lined up or the shifter rod is not lined up
Thanks, Jeff. Good video.
Should use anti seize on all the bolts when it putting it back together
does anyone know if the lower unit bolts should be greased ? I'm assuming yes cant see why not. Cheers
There is nothing worst than an “oops” - “this sucks” expert!!!
What is the purpose of the nylon bushing and the 3 washers. What would happen if you re installed without them?
That must be a saltwater motor. I think you guys making these how to videos of how to change a impeller need to learn a little about anti seize and grease. All bolt threads, woodruff keys trim tab seats and bolts. Steel and aluminum with H2 O make galvanic corrosion. Anti seize on those collars and pump housing. Sorry, but you make it look and sound a lot harder than it is.
Very helpful - I've book marked it. Unfortunately I saw that my upper seal is milk and leaking. I see there's another video for that.
Quick question, on the Speedo tube that is near the shift shaft, if I do not replace the hose back onto that, will that cause serious issues? I don’t even use the route that goes into the Yamaha digital gauges, so I was wondering if I could bypass putting that back on. I’m sure I just need to put it back on but when working by myself it’s hard to get the route put back on the nipple, and get a zip tie on it so I’m just wondering how important that is. Thanks.
I am a fiberglass and refinishing guy and I don’t mess with any engines other than my own so that’s why I don’t know, I am pretty clueless for the most part when it comes to outboards. I did do the whole repair of all the oil seals using your tool on my own 2003 ox66 so I was competent enough to at least do the seals.
Buongiorno ha un video della sostituzione del filtro benzina? No decantatore .. grazie
If you put heat on the key it will come off. If the key is seized it's because of heating issues which reacts with the metallurgy molecules similar to a friction weld. However heat or using a blow torch will also reverse the molecules so it can be removed but all grease and other material should be cleaned first. Heating may destroy gaskets and other soft components but in this case they need to be replaced anyways. Allot of shafts cases that use keys are intentionally heated so they stay in place with high rpm shaft speeds. Why are you not putting grease on the shaft? The old grease should be removed and new grease should be applied. If you do not grease the shaft it could seize up or wear allot quicker. Grease should be placed all around the impeller wear plate because when you initially crank the engine up the impeller has zero water. If not the impeller will wear allot quicker and the grease is going to do nothing but help lubricate.
Ok, I don't have that fancy puller for the driveshaft collar.... How do I do it????
It’s a mini pull clutch mate. They’re on various cars. Essentially you push the metal top cover down at the same time as you push the clips up into top cover. Then pull the whole thing up. Never bought one. They’re reusable. They are a pain till you get the knack. Good luck.
In another video, a guy uses two sockets on opposite sides of the shaft as fulcrom points, then uses a small screwdriver to gently pry/rock the collar off. Looked pretty simple.
After installing the water pump on vf115, and reinstalling the lower unit. I put the motor in the water, I'm getting water and exhaust in the shift tube. Is this normal? where did I go wrong?
excellent tutorial
If you are working with a counter rotation motor, would you turn the driveshaft counterclockwise when setting the impeller back into the housing??
Not unless the motor runs backwards
Why do you not want grease on top of the shaft?
DO YOU NO WHY OIL IS DIPPING OUT OF THE COOLING WATER VENTS AT BOTTOM OF ENG.IT'S A YAMAHA 90 ENG.
2stroke or 4 stroke?
How do you remove the drive shaft collar without the fancy puller?
Capt. Bill Moore just a screwdriver will get them off. Not hard. I don’t know how he got that much resistance to use a puller
Capt. Bill Moore or cut it with a dremel tool and split it. New nylon collar with stainless collar less then 20 at any Yamaha dealer.
Yamaha 2HP water pump replacement
Hi there,
very good video
What fat are you using?
Thank you very much
Is there a reason not to go ahead and change the O-rings?