Dude, simply the best tut on how to expose SLog3 ever. Plain, simple, easy to understand. One of those videos where I was like, "Boom! Got it." Thank you.
Hey, I've been searching for "how to expose S-log 3 a7siii blah blah" all over the internet and I'm glad that I've found this video. I got my A7siii 6 days ago, and regarding this topic, I 100% agree about the meter, I never trust meters because exposing an image really depends on the lighting situations and on what you are shooting. So the +1.7 is a no no for me, except if it's a landscape shot. After watching this video, I tried to test 3 different settings on lowlight with a subject. Those settings were; +1.7, 65 +-1, and 55+-3. and no doubt the 65+-1 was the footage with the best exposed skintone and having the fewest noise. Cheers!
Sick intro bro. Thanks so much for the tip. What you say make sense. If you over expose the skin, you still need it to bring it back. And lots of data in that tiny range. But when it’s aroun 60-65, you got more to work with. Thanks man
this is so true Anthony. The 1.7, 2 stop over expose is just a generic rule that may work in most situations but it doesn't work great like in head talking shots lie these ones as you want to prioritize proper exposure for your face. I just wish the Sony A7Siii and FX3 had waveforms because we wouldn't even be talking about this. I like how it works in the FX6 where you simply set your zebras for the clip hihglights and a second zebra for your skin then you can see both lines belonging to each zebra in your waveform allowing you to decide what to clip and what not. I hope Sony throws a firmware update because eyeballing by overexposing or judging by the histogram not always get you the best results. Nailed it bro. Thank you.
I'm definitely going to do some tests myself and I'll probably prefer a different method (I'll explain in a bit), But here's how I understand it: Middle gray is said to be at 41% and skin tones are usually 1-2 stops over middle gray (also max IRE is 94) If we consider middle as truly being 'middle', then out of the 13 stops, you'll have (in theory) 6 stops above middle and 6 below it. Therefore: (94-41)/6 = 8.8 IRE for each stop (although I understand that it's not linear and not every stop gets exactly 8.8, but it's close, and for our purposes let's just accept it like this). So if you want to expose your skintones for a situation where your gray card is 41%, then that's a 50-58 Zebra, technically. Now if you want to overexpose them by a little bit (where you gray card is now close to 50%), then it's 58-67 which your very well demonstrated this theory in practice in this video. I, however, probably arrive at this exact situation, but by using the method a little bit different. I don't set my Zebras to highlight the LIT part of the face, nor the shadows (because scene contrast can vary a lot), therefore I like to see zebras on my subject's face somewhere between the highlights and the shadows. Visually, looking at my monitor show this, it's much more helpful to know WHERE I stand (and how "thin" the zebra line is = more/less contrast in the scene), Therefore my zebra is set at 55 +/- 3, probably getting about 41-45 in the shadows and 60-65 in the highlights. So I would technically get the same result as you (when you set zebras to 65 for the very LIT part), I just look at a different part of the face - which is usually where the nose/eyes are (depending on position). This also helps you if you want to "artistically" alter the shot, because you can keep the 55 value but "apply" it to the highlights if you want it more moody/dark or "apply" it to the shadows if you want to get the lit side close to blowing out for whatever reason. So there's no need to constantly change your Custom Zebra if you can just play around with it like this. It's also a good Custom Zebra to use with S-Cinetone (but more testing required). The other Custom Zebra needs to be 94+ because there's no other set zebra that helps you there.
This video was great. I watched another one that suggested going for 55+5 zebra for skin… but I kept feeling like it was a little bit too dark for my taste. So I went searching, and I found your video. Love it. Very nicely made, nice quality, great flow. Nice job man!!
Sony claims that the correct exposure is 48%-52% IRE for skin tones in slog3. So overexposing to 60%-65% IRE in well lit envs and bringing it back down in post production at 48%-52% IRE will give the best noise free skin tones results. Did I understand it right ? Good job btw!!
Oh wow that's crazy, makes complete sense. You almost have to look at what your camera is saying but ignore it at the same time. It's more of an understanding of your environment and knowing what you camera thinks is over exposed, because your camera doesn't know what the subject is.
Isn’t 65% where you want after converting to Rec 709? Before conversion, I think skin tones are “supposed” to be in the 48-52% range which, after conversion, brings them up to 60-70% IRE. Yes? No? Great video, by the way. I’ve been using this method and it’s brilliant.
2 года назад
Outstanding how to, maybe it´s youtube´s brightening/shadows up bug for footage from davinci colorgraded on macs, that is making the footage from the sun and shadow section look a bit overexposed? the 2 walking clips look just right skinwise imo threw youtube codec... thanks for the video, subbed massive.
Congrats for the video! One quick note about gerald undone`s video tho: He actually never said you should always overexpose by 1.7. What he said is that in well lit environments (outside or a place with many lights) your middle gray card should be lit by zebras set to 41 (the gray card, not skin tones). On the other hand, for darker environments, you should set your zebras to 55 when it hits a middle gray card (again, not skin tones). The "1.7" thing doesnt mean you will be all set always when it shows 1.7 - what happened is that in that specfic example he showed in the video middle gray set to 55 was also measuring 1.7 MM. Proof of that is that in the other example of his video (setting zebras to 41 in lit up environments) the EV was showing -0.7 (!!). That shows he is not looking for 1.7 every time. It shows that in the second example 1.7 was the correct for that scene. So, to summarize, his video talks about exposing with gray card - If you are in a dark environment, set zebras do 55. If you are in a bright environment, set it to 41. Never simply expose with 1.7MM in mind.
I agree I saw his video .. that wasn’t what I meant by that .. they were two separate statements meaning I saw his video and what he said and I also know so many people live by the +2 rule which isn’t the correct way. And the middle grey technique is super accurate but not everyone always has a grey card on them at all times especially run n gun creators … the 62-65% zebras for skin is extremely accurate 100% of the time as well especially when exposing for a person. This technique has never failed once for me
Also you can achieve a faulty middle grey technique when it comes to skin tones like I showed in the video. If you’re light source is way too hot it doesn’t matter what middle grey reads because your most likely still going to have hot spots on your skin. You have to balance between a certain level of light hitting the skin without reflecting off of it and light from your camera.
@@TheEverythingMan I'm not sure if i agree with this last statement. I believe if you had a middle gray card in this part of the video you just mentioned, the middle gray card would be lit by 41 zebras much before your face did. For well lit environments the middle gray would be set to 41, like he said in his video. To hit that 41 middle gray your EV would be problably be showing something below 0 (and the scene would still be well exposed, as the card would show 41). Your skin probably wouldnt have hot spots. What i mean is that your face only had hot spots in that part of the video because you were targeting 1.7 EV. But you shouldnt. In that scenario you should set zebras to 41 and forget about what the MM EV shows (1.7 or whatever). I belive your face wouldnt be overexposed like that. Its the exact example gerald shows at 32 min of his video. Having all that said, i 100% agree that with the way you expose without middle gray. Greetings from Rio de Janeiro
@@TheEverythingMan In that example (32:00 min of Gerald`s video) he sets middle gray to 41. Notice that his EV shows -7, and it is still perfect exposure. He was not targeting 1.7 and thats why he hit pefect exposure even with -0.7. In the example of your video (a very well lit moment) when middle gray hits 41 your EV would probably also show a negative number, and the highlights on your face wouldnt be blowing out. It would only blow out the skin tones if you set it to 41 and still wanted to hit 1.7, which wouldnt be necessary.
Quick question: so when shooting in SLOG 3 - are you saying I will need to create two customs for zebras. One for skin and one for lets say landscape. I will have to choose which one is more important to me based on the scene. If I have a human subject, I should get the zebras (IRE) to the 60-65 range. If I'm shooting scenery subject, I should stick to 92-94 in the zebras?
I bought some arri style LUTS from some guy who explained getting perfect skin tones with false colors. But if you didn’t have a monitor to set zebras to CRI 65, similar to the message in this video.
Yeah, the 1.7 over was not working for me either. Wolfcrow called it also. 1 over was about right. Skin tones between 40 and 80 ire depending on the look you're going for and the persons skin tone.
Anthony, thanks for the video, but are you shooting in pp8? Or pp11? What are your Slog3 settings, and what do you do to match your log footage to your a7iii and other 8 bit cameras? Thanks!
Set up Davinci Resolve Scopes monitor, view wave form, when you see the bulk of reading in middle of graph this is 1.7 stops compensation. It's what you need for quality image.👍
What is that strange flicker around you/in the background starting at 3:44? It's like a flashing. Is that RUclips compression, a setting on your camera, etc?
All that info sounded way amazing but it blew way way way over my head. But thank you for that very helpful info that I know will help those with this new Sony Camera
So I'm shooting in slog3 on my AS73, if I set my custom zebra to 41(like recommended) my exposure meter shows 0 but my grey card is covered in with all zebra lines which is ok but do I leave it like so or pump up my iso or my lighting to hit 1.7 on my meter? Do I trust my grey card fully covered with lines or my meter? Pretty confusing. Hope I'm clear. Thanks.
you leave it as it is. The 1.7 exposure is if you're exposing for the whole subject such as a whole room, big people gathering with many people in it and etc. When exposing a talent or an area that you want to expose correctly, that is where the grey card comes in. For example you're shooting in a park and there's many people but you want to expose correctly for the foreground, use the grey card there and even if the background is over expose, at least your foreground or subject of what you want the viewers eye to be is correctly expose. Hope this made sense.
ok, but what if I am shooting a subject like a person in a sunrise or sunset setting? What if the sun makes my exposure meter say it's above 2+ ? What do I do then?
@@TheChironium Well with Slog3 ideal IRE for skin tones is around 50, I've played around with settings so that it's easier to see zebras on the monitor around that range and about 48 or 47 +-5 does it. Before that I've tried 40 +-10 as was suggested by one filmmaker and here you'd have to increase exposure until zebras start disappearing from the skin (hitting about 50 IRE). Second way - it's easier to see the Zebras but you always have to expose exactly where zebras start disappearing. And first way is more stable - if you see zebras on a skin anyway it's all good but here it's harder to see zebras.... Hope my explanation isn't too confusing...
Maybe you have an answer for this. my last video i used a nd filter for my osmo pocket. did 4k 60 turned on automatic to see where it was to see what filter to use. put my filter on, put it back to manual mode and everything was where it needed to be but footage was still over exposed. Also did all I could in Final Cut Pro to tone it down. Any reason why that would happen?
To be completely honest the only way I would use an ND with a pocket or action camera is if I were shooting in full manual to lock my shutter. I wouldn’t make life harder if you’re going to shoot in auto. If you shoot manual just set your iso as low as possible, 180 degree shutter rule and pop nds on and off until you find the right one.
@@TheEverythingMan yea I flipped to auto just to see the exposure in auto so I could then see what filter I needed. I usually always do manual. I’m think I never flipped it back to manual. Thanks!
Should I use my exposure compensation wheel to +1.0-2.0 for slog3 in order to easily be overexposing? Or is that not a good recommended method for exposing in slog3??
slog 3 vs s-cinetone zebras for skin, they both have to be around 65? or depending on the profile u are shooting on, zebras need to change accordingly? slog3 mid gray value is 41%...should zebras be lower than a rec 709 profile?
Thats not true. A7 iii hold up well in even more harsh scenario. 10 bit have nothing to do with giving more dynamic range. To example I shoot lot of stuff like commercial work for clients with A7 III and Lumix S1h with Vlog 10 bit. With enough practice with exposure and grading i can match this to cameras almost perfectly even without 10 bit color space with slog2 ( and even with slog3) without banding or color artifacts
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Dude, simply the best tut on how to expose SLog3 ever. Plain, simple, easy to understand. One of those videos where I was like, "Boom! Got it." Thank you.
Awesome bro happy to help!
Hey, I've been searching for "how to expose S-log 3 a7siii blah blah" all over the internet and I'm glad that I've found this video.
I got my A7siii 6 days ago, and regarding this topic, I 100% agree about the meter, I never trust meters because exposing an image really depends on the lighting situations and on what you are shooting. So the +1.7 is a no no for me, except if it's a landscape shot.
After watching this video, I tried to test 3 different settings on lowlight with a subject. Those settings were; +1.7, 65 +-1, and 55+-3.
and no doubt the 65+-1 was the footage with the best exposed skintone and having the fewest noise.
Cheers!
Finally!!!! Thanks. I’ve see too many slog3 footages with horrible slintones due to over exposure, not cinematic at all. I will try your method
Finally I get usable SLog3 footage. Thanks man!
Bro Im so bad on my skintone. Well timed, well said, much needed content. Salute TEM
Same here. Definitely right on time. Oh, and you’ve got great vids too. Peace.
Happy to help my guys 👊👊👊
Sick intro bro. Thanks so much for the tip. What you say make sense. If you over expose the skin, you still need it to bring it back. And lots of data in that tiny range. But when it’s aroun 60-65, you got more to work with. Thanks man
this is so true Anthony. The 1.7, 2 stop over expose is just a generic rule that may work in most situations but it doesn't work great like in head talking shots lie these ones as you want to prioritize proper exposure for your face. I just wish the Sony A7Siii and FX3 had waveforms because we wouldn't even be talking about this. I like how it works in the FX6 where you simply set your zebras for the clip hihglights and a second zebra for your skin then you can see both lines belonging to each zebra in your waveform allowing you to decide what to clip and what not.
I hope Sony throws a firmware update because eyeballing by overexposing or judging by the histogram not always get you the best results.
Nailed it bro. Thank you.
Great explanation. I wish cameras would start implementing false color in camera.
I'm definitely going to do some tests myself and I'll probably prefer a different method (I'll explain in a bit),
But here's how I understand it: Middle gray is said to be at 41% and skin tones are usually 1-2 stops over middle gray (also max IRE is 94)
If we consider middle as truly being 'middle', then out of the 13 stops, you'll have (in theory) 6 stops above middle and 6 below it. Therefore: (94-41)/6 = 8.8 IRE for each stop (although I understand that it's not linear and not every stop gets exactly 8.8, but it's close, and for our purposes let's just accept it like this).
So if you want to expose your skintones for a situation where your gray card is 41%, then that's a 50-58 Zebra, technically. Now if you want to overexpose them by a little bit (where you gray card is now close to 50%), then it's 58-67 which your very well demonstrated this theory in practice in this video.
I, however, probably arrive at this exact situation, but by using the method a little bit different. I don't set my Zebras to highlight the LIT part of the face, nor the shadows (because scene contrast can vary a lot), therefore I like to see zebras on my subject's face somewhere between the highlights and the shadows. Visually, looking at my monitor show this, it's much more helpful to know WHERE I stand (and how "thin" the zebra line is = more/less contrast in the scene), Therefore my zebra is set at 55 +/- 3, probably getting about 41-45 in the shadows and 60-65 in the highlights. So I would technically get the same result as you (when you set zebras to 65 for the very LIT part), I just look at a different part of the face - which is usually where the nose/eyes are (depending on position). This also helps you if you want to "artistically" alter the shot, because you can keep the 55 value but "apply" it to the highlights if you want it more moody/dark or "apply" it to the shadows if you want to get the lit side close to blowing out for whatever reason. So there's no need to constantly change your Custom Zebra if you can just play around with it like this. It's also a good Custom Zebra to use with S-Cinetone (but more testing required). The other Custom Zebra needs to be 94+ because there's no other set zebra that helps you there.
I will CERTAINLY be experimenting w/ this method! Video is bookmarked! I too have noticed skin tone isn't so great when following the "rules."
Great video and makes a tone of sense. Look forward to the next ones
Wow. Just bought my first full frame (a7iv) and your explanation makes slog 3 seem so much simpler. Thanks. New sub 👍🏻🇬🇧
This video was great. I watched another one that suggested going for 55+5 zebra for skin… but I kept feeling like it was a little bit too dark for my taste. So I went searching, and I found your video. Love it. Very nicely made, nice quality, great flow. Nice job man!!
Quality content as always... Love from India 🇮🇳
The range (65 on zebras) will be different for different skin tones but this is good!
Actually all skin tones fall in the same color spectrum… the luminance can be slightly adjusted for darker skin but it’s all pretty similar
2 Years old and still a Gem 🔥🔥🔥
so in short, SLOG3 10bit exposure guide: 60-65% zebra for preserving skintones and 94% zebra for any other scenes???
Yup that’s pretty much my method and it works flawlessly for me
Really liked how you explained it without getting too scientific. Cheers
Sony claims that the correct exposure is 48%-52% IRE for skin tones in slog3.
So overexposing to 60%-65% IRE in well lit envs and bringing it back down in post production at 48%-52% IRE will give the best noise free skin tones results.
Did I understand it right ?
Good job btw!!
Oh wow that's crazy, makes complete sense. You almost have to look at what your camera is saying but ignore it at the same time. It's more of an understanding of your environment and knowing what you camera thinks is over exposed, because your camera doesn't know what the subject is.
Great video bro, gave me a deeper understanding into this slog3 world. Thanks
Great video, Anthony. I have the A7iv and this works with that camera as well. Good times.
This clarified so much for me … thanks a lot
Isn’t 65% where you want after converting to Rec 709? Before conversion, I think skin tones are “supposed” to be in the 48-52% range which, after conversion, brings them up to 60-70% IRE. Yes? No? Great video, by the way. I’ve been using this method and it’s brilliant.
Outstanding how to, maybe it´s youtube´s brightening/shadows up bug for footage from davinci colorgraded on macs, that is making the footage from the sun and shadow section look a bit overexposed? the 2 walking clips look just right skinwise imo threw youtube codec... thanks for the video, subbed massive.
Thanks for this. Been having problems with the 1.7 over. Nice to hear your thoughts on this.
Congrats for the video! One quick note about gerald undone`s video tho: He actually never said you should always overexpose by 1.7. What he said is that in well lit environments (outside or a place with many lights) your middle gray card should be lit by zebras set to 41 (the gray card, not skin tones). On the other hand, for darker environments, you should set your zebras to 55 when it hits a middle gray card (again, not skin tones). The "1.7" thing doesnt mean you will be all set always when it shows 1.7 - what happened is that in that specfic example he showed in the video middle gray set to 55 was also measuring 1.7 MM. Proof of that is that in the other example of his video (setting zebras to 41 in lit up environments) the EV was showing -0.7 (!!). That shows he is not looking for 1.7 every time. It shows that in the second example 1.7 was the correct for that scene. So, to summarize, his video talks about exposing with gray card - If you are in a dark environment, set zebras do 55. If you are in a bright environment, set it to 41. Never simply expose with 1.7MM in mind.
I agree I saw his video .. that wasn’t what I meant by that .. they were two separate statements meaning I saw his video and what he said and I also know so many people live by the +2 rule which isn’t the correct way.
And the middle grey technique is super accurate but not everyone always has a grey card on them at all times especially run n gun creators … the 62-65% zebras for skin is extremely accurate 100% of the time as well especially when exposing for a person.
This technique has never failed once for me
Also you can achieve a faulty middle grey technique when it comes to skin tones like I showed in the video. If you’re light source is way too hot it doesn’t matter what middle grey reads because your most likely still going to have hot spots on your skin.
You have to balance between a certain level of light hitting the skin without reflecting off of it and light from your camera.
@@TheEverythingMan I'm not sure if i agree with this last statement. I believe if you had a middle gray card in this part of the video you just mentioned, the middle gray card would be lit by 41 zebras much before your face did. For well lit environments the middle gray would be set to 41, like he said in his video. To hit that 41 middle gray your EV would be problably be showing something below 0 (and the scene would still be well exposed, as the card would show 41). Your skin probably wouldnt have hot spots. What i mean is that your face only had hot spots in that part of the video because you were targeting 1.7 EV. But you shouldnt. In that scenario you should set zebras to 41 and forget about what the MM EV shows (1.7 or whatever). I belive your face wouldnt be overexposed like that. Its the exact example gerald shows at 32 min of his video. Having all that said, i 100% agree that with the way you expose without middle gray. Greetings from Rio de Janeiro
@@TheEverythingMan In that example (32:00 min of Gerald`s video) he sets middle gray to 41. Notice that his EV shows -7, and it is still perfect exposure. He was not targeting 1.7 and thats why he hit pefect exposure even with -0.7. In the example of your video (a very well lit moment) when middle gray hits 41 your EV would probably also show a negative number, and the highlights on your face wouldnt be blowing out. It would only blow out the skin tones if you set it to 41 and still wanted to hit 1.7, which wouldnt be necessary.
Very informative. What are your zebra settings if youre not exposing for skin? Like a day at the zoo, general stuff? Thanks.
Thanks! Set it to 100
@@TheEverythingMan thanks man. Keep up the great work. 🙏🏼
Great tip! Thanks!
Camera comes in tomorrow! Super pumped!!!!!
FX3?
@@TheEverythingMan late to game, A7siii 😅
Quick question: so when shooting in SLOG 3 - are you saying I will need to create two customs for zebras. One for skin and one for lets say landscape. I will have to choose which one is more important to me based on the scene. If I have a human subject, I should get the zebras (IRE) to the 60-65 range. If I'm shooting scenery subject, I should stick to 92-94 in the zebras?
Yes that’s your best bet .. 62-65% for skin and 95 for scenery
@@TheEverythingMan But what about the advice to expose skin to 55%? Is that good advice in your experience?
I bought some arri style LUTS from some guy who explained getting perfect skin tones with false colors. But if you didn’t have a monitor to set zebras to CRI 65, similar to the message in this video.
who
Yeah, the 1.7 over was not working for me either. Wolfcrow called it also. 1 over was about right. Skin tones between 40 and 80 ire depending on the look you're going for and the persons skin tone.
Good stuff as always!! Nice.....come on a7siii come back in stock with EDU pricing lol
Great video! Does it make a difference if filming in black & white? Set zebras to 65 for skin?
Anthony, thanks for the video, but are you shooting in pp8? Or pp11? What are your Slog3 settings, and what do you do to match your log footage to your a7iii and other 8 bit cameras? Thanks!
Set up Davinci Resolve Scopes monitor, view wave form, when you see the bulk of reading in middle of graph this is 1.7 stops compensation. It's what you need for quality image.👍
Very good video man!!!
What is that strange flicker around you/in the background starting at 3:44? It's like a flashing. Is that RUclips compression, a setting on your camera, etc?
Looks like digital stabilization artifacts to me.
thank you very much! do you use nd filter in this video?
All that info sounded way amazing but it blew way way way over my head. But thank you for that very helpful info that I know will help those with this new Sony Camera
So I'm shooting in slog3 on my AS73, if I set my custom zebra to 41(like recommended) my exposure meter shows 0 but my grey card is covered in with all zebra lines which is ok but do I leave it like so or pump up my iso or my lighting to hit 1.7 on my meter? Do I trust my grey card fully covered with lines or my meter? Pretty confusing.
Hope I'm clear.
Thanks.
you leave it as it is. The 1.7 exposure is if you're exposing for the whole subject such as a whole room, big people gathering with many people in it and etc. When exposing a talent or an area that you want to expose correctly, that is where the grey card comes in. For example you're shooting in a park and there's many people but you want to expose correctly for the foreground, use the grey card there and even if the background is over expose, at least your foreground or subject of what you want the viewers eye to be is correctly expose. Hope this made sense.
@@Keerationfilms Thank you very much, really appreciate.
ok, but what if I am shooting a subject like a person in a sunrise or sunset setting? What if the sun makes my exposure meter say it's above 2+ ? What do I do then?
Are you supposed to set white balance and middle grey when setting up for a shot?
How to adjust the IRE?
Amazing info thanks. You got yourself one more subscriber. What are your recommended settings for the other picture profiles?
Slog3 zebras for skin tones should be at 45-55 IRE max
been searching for the correct ire levels for different skin tones myself. curious why 45-55 and is there a difference for tan skin? thanks
@@TheChironium Well with Slog3 ideal IRE for skin tones is around 50, I've played around with settings so that it's easier to see zebras on the monitor around that range and about 48 or 47 +-5 does it. Before that I've tried 40 +-10 as was suggested by one filmmaker and here you'd have to increase exposure until zebras start disappearing from the skin (hitting about 50 IRE). Second way - it's easier to see the Zebras but you always have to expose exactly where zebras start disappearing. And first way is more stable - if you see zebras on a skin anyway it's all good but here it's harder to see zebras.... Hope my explanation isn't too confusing...
So 65 zebras for people?
How much and what is a 'notch'? thanks
Maybe you have an answer for this. my last video i used a nd filter for my osmo pocket. did 4k 60 turned on automatic to see where it was to see what filter to use. put my filter on, put it back to manual mode and everything was where it needed to be but footage was still over exposed. Also did all I could in Final Cut Pro to tone it down. Any reason why that would happen?
To be completely honest the only way I would use an ND with a pocket or action camera is if I were shooting in full manual to lock my shutter. I wouldn’t make life harder if you’re going to shoot in auto. If you shoot manual just set your iso as low as possible, 180 degree shutter rule and pop nds on and off until you find the right one.
@@TheEverythingMan yea I flipped to auto just to see the exposure in auto so I could then see what filter I needed. I usually always do manual. I’m think I never flipped it back to manual. Thanks!
Should I use my exposure compensation wheel to +1.0-2.0 for slog3 in order to easily be overexposing? Or is that not a good recommended method for exposing in slog3??
slog 3 vs s-cinetone zebras for skin, they both have to be around 65? or depending on the profile u are shooting on, zebras need to change accordingly? slog3 mid gray value is 41%...should zebras be lower than a rec 709 profile?
I think so. 48-52% before conversion
Man the A7SIII looks awesome with all that sun hitting you. If you were on the A7III it would have looked terrible
Thanks bro... yeah it’s amazing but if you don’t expose right you’ll still get hot spots
@@TheEverythingMan cool. Every video I see with it looks way sharp and the dynamic range is way better with that 10 bit
Thats not true. A7 iii hold up well in even more harsh scenario. 10 bit have nothing to do with giving more dynamic range. To example I shoot lot of stuff like commercial work for clients with A7 III and Lumix S1h with Vlog 10 bit. With enough practice with exposure and grading i can match this to cameras almost perfectly even without 10 bit color space with slog2 ( and even with slog3) without banding or color artifacts
This is example
ruclips.net/video/F1O_FE2DEhQ/видео.html
Mostly shots with S1h but there are few shots with A7 III.
Thank you🙏 after this, I stop watching more tutorials about skin tones slog 3 in my a7siii.👏👏
Will this work on slog 2 also bro?? Thanks
It will absolutely
@@TheEverythingMan Thanks for your help always!
Subbed G 🙏
No lie I was fighting with some footage last night trying to get my skins right
Reaction video from wifey 🤣 waiting. Also hmu sometime.
Out F*cking standing
I almost always underexpose. I do scary vids and that bright, commercial look destroys my vibe!
Qaulity video
Left me confused to be honest.
Maybe I can help ?