You learn something every day. My 911 (993) does not have those two dowel pins in the CV joint. That washer is called a Belleville washer and is used to add pre-load. And yes, the inside raised edge goes towards the shaft.
Excellent work and gives me more confidence to tear something apart that I've never disassembled. You make it seem like a careful method and attention to detail can get you though many, many otherwise expensive (when you send them out) repairs at home…the whole point of this channel I believe. Thanks for the great content, I'm learning more with each video.
Such a messy, but necessary job. Really shows how important the boots are in keeping all the moving parts clean and lubricated. Well done filming it all. I haven’t done enough of these to be proficient at it, so I would likely have been adding enough personal “commentary” as I went, that a video of it all would have been unfit for broadcast.... Nice job!
Having pulled apart a few of these in the process of planning some custom half shafts (which ended up not happening anyway) I will congratulate on apparently not spreading old grease to every part of your body :) The video also doesn't capture the smell of stale grease (thank heavens!). Nicely done job.
I've never seen anything but Moly grease in CV joints I use it in my track 911 no issues. I hope the red grease works out The moly is the messiest stuff to get out of anything it touches. Cheers!
Me too, I hope it works out! Look into redline CV-2 and compare with Sta-Plex. Sta-plex has same or better ratings. A chemical engineer friend recommended this one.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto The CV-2 is red also (it uses red moly) and you were totally right about that bevel washer. It needs to be installed to maintain the pressure on the back of the joint. Most older Porsches use the same design (though my 968 doesn't have the washer)
Hey Tom. Another helpful video. The 914-6 looks pretty much identical. A couple questions and comments coming from that angle. 1. Factory service manual says the "spring retainer" (aka moon washer) should be positioned with "hollow end facing joint section". 2. It sounds like you didn't put anything between the boot flange and the joint. The manual says "seal with sealing compound Curil k". 3. Is there any reason to clock the joints one side to the other? Meaning orient the joint on the splines relative to each other? Maybe that is just off road vehicles? :)
Hi Dennis, It's been too long for me to remember which way I out the washer on. Certainly follow the manual. I think some years use a gasket and some recommend a sealant. I've been warned that the paper gasket can cause clamping problems overtime and the bolts can work loose. Many recommend special lock washers. Nord locks? I can't remember the name at the moment I don't think the spline clocking matters.
Awesome, I have always wondered how to do this. My questions is does Mrs. Tom know that you used the glass pasta party bowl to clean car parts? Just wondering...
I used to work at a Volkswagen dealership as a “moptologist” at night and the mechanics would throw away the ball bearings if they had a bluish sheen on them and I would get those ball bearings out of the trash and use them rebuild my 1970 Volkswagen camper CV joints that had sometimes a broken ball bearing.
Tom your video is great it explains real well How to take a part and inspect the CV joint. I’m having the problem of I cannot get that center star with the cage off of the spline shaft, First I did remove the retaining ring. I have used a dead blow hammer on the star in cage and it will not budge I’ve even tried to use a three arm gear puller and having a hard time even having that hold on so I don’t know what I’m gonna do to get that center star in the washer in the back off? Do you or anybody else have any ideas why the center star is not sliding off very easily like I’ve seen everybody else’s videos.
You might need to put it in a hydraulic shop press and it will break free. Try a heavy brass punch and ball peen hammer instead of a plastic hammer. That also makes a big difference. A hard hammer will send vibrations through the shaft and help loosen it up. Let me know what happens.
Thanks for the reply Tom. I do have access to a hydraulic shop press I will go to my cousins and I will try using his shop press and I’ll let you know how it works out that probably will break it free I’m just afraid of damaging the splines in the parts don’t have the money to replace things like that hopefully can do it OK I will let you know how it comes out many thanks thank you Marion Fisk
Hey Tom I made it out to my cousins shop and used his hydraulic press and I did press off thes star and the cage that holds the ball bearings. On the transmissions side I was successful without damaging the splines. Now on the wheel hubs outside, how do I get that part separated again it’s not wanting to come off and I tapped it sideways in front of the CV joint trying to loosen that from the gasket is there anything between the CV joint and the outer hub shaft that holds that on there or is it just stuck to the gasket??? Thanks Marion Fisk
Are you working on a 914 driveshaft because when looking at several series of 911 parts manuals, they do not use or show a Belleville washer. Those are used on the VWs and the 914.
Hi Tom, did you measure your balls, they may wear differantly, I would have tried to keep the balls from where they come from, so it would be identical to the way it came apart, just cleaner. Good daily content videos.
You might as well throw joints in the garbage. You NEVER take the balls out if a CV joint, the joint and balls develop wear patterns. Just like why you always put engine bearings in the same position as you took them out. They will now eat themselves in a short amount of time.
I don't know about this, lots of people have taken apart these old CV joints and successfully run them before me. Usually dirt is the enemy of these joints.
Garage Time - Restomod you dont need to take them apart to clean them. You leave them all together and put in a coffee can with mineral spirits overnight is easiest. I have a vacuum siphon gun that uses air pressure to suck up solvents and spray them. I use that to spray the joint until all the old grease is removed then blow them clean with air then repack the bearings with cv(moly) grease in a ziplock bag.
You learn something every day. My 911 (993) does not have those two dowel pins in the CV joint. That washer is called a Belleville washer and is used to add pre-load. And yes, the inside raised edge goes towards the shaft.
👍
Excellent work and gives me more confidence to tear something apart that I've never disassembled. You make it seem like a careful method and attention to detail can get you though many, many otherwise expensive (when you send them out) repairs at home…the whole point of this channel I believe. Thanks for the great content, I'm learning more with each video.
Thanks Jeff, that's exactly why I share my journey. Thanks for following
Such a messy, but necessary job. Really shows how important the boots are in keeping all the moving parts clean and lubricated. Well done filming it all. I haven’t done enough of these to be proficient at it, so I would likely have been adding enough personal “commentary” as I went, that a video of it all would have been unfit for broadcast.... Nice job!
Very messy job! I hope these boots will go at least five more years!
This will definitely come in handy. Thanks Tom
Handy as in you will need lots of gloves!
Having pulled apart a few of these in the process of planning some custom half shafts (which ended up not happening anyway) I will congratulate on apparently not spreading old grease to every part of your body :) The video also doesn't capture the smell of stale grease (thank heavens!). Nicely done job.
It was messy! You described this very well, so I know you've done this before👍
Great video, very helpful!!!
Cool👍 Thanks.
Thanks for the video. Will be doing this soon. And was wondering if you put that washer on the first time, lol.
Cool best of luck!
I've never seen anything but Moly grease in CV joints I use it in my track 911 no issues. I hope the red grease works out The moly is the messiest stuff to get out of anything it touches. Cheers!
Me too, I hope it works out! Look into redline CV-2 and compare with Sta-Plex. Sta-plex has same or better ratings. A chemical engineer friend recommended this one.
@@GarageTimeAutoResto The CV-2 is red also (it uses red moly) and you were totally right about that bevel washer. It needs to be installed to maintain the pressure on the back of the joint. Most older Porsches use the same design (though my 968 doesn't have the washer)
Hey Tom. Another helpful video. The 914-6 looks pretty much identical. A couple questions and comments coming from that angle. 1. Factory service manual says the "spring retainer" (aka moon washer) should be positioned with "hollow end facing joint section". 2. It sounds like you didn't put anything between the boot flange and the joint. The manual says "seal with sealing compound Curil k". 3. Is there any reason to clock the joints one side to the other? Meaning orient the joint on the splines relative to each other? Maybe that is just off road vehicles? :)
Hi Dennis,
It's been too long for me to remember which way I out the washer on. Certainly follow the manual.
I think some years use a gasket and some recommend a sealant. I've been warned that the paper gasket can cause clamping problems overtime and the bolts can work loose. Many recommend special lock washers. Nord locks? I can't remember the name at the moment
I don't think the spline clocking matters.
gracias por mostrar el proceso completo! me hara falta. Salds
Awesome, I have always wondered how to do this. My questions is does Mrs. Tom know that you used the glass pasta party bowl to clean car parts? Just wondering...
She would NOT approve, So I bought my own bowl from Goodwill. Now she's curious what I'm doing with it!
I used to work at a Volkswagen dealership as a “moptologist” at night and the mechanics would throw away the ball bearings if they had a bluish sheen on them and I would get those ball bearings out of the trash and use them rebuild my 1970 Volkswagen camper CV joints that had sometimes a broken ball bearing.
That's an awesome story. Something I would do too. Love moptologist!
Tom your video is great it explains real well How to take a part and inspect the CV joint.
I’m having the problem of I cannot get that center star with the cage off of the spline shaft, First I did remove the retaining ring. I have used a dead blow hammer on the star in cage and it will not budge I’ve even tried to use a three arm gear puller and having a hard time even having that hold on so I don’t know what I’m gonna do to get that center star in the washer in the back off? Do you or anybody else have any ideas why the center star is not sliding off very easily like I’ve seen everybody else’s videos.
You might need to put it in a hydraulic shop press and it will break free.
Try a heavy brass punch and ball peen hammer instead of a plastic hammer. That also makes a big difference. A hard hammer will send vibrations through the shaft and help loosen it up.
Let me know what happens.
Thanks for the reply Tom. I do have access to a hydraulic shop press I will go to my cousins and I will try using his shop press and I’ll let you know how it works out that probably will break it free I’m just afraid of damaging the splines in the parts don’t have the money to replace things like that hopefully can do it OK I will let you know how it comes out many thanks thank you Marion Fisk
I think if you push straight down, the splines can't be damaged. Just make sure you are pressing on the inner star only
Hey Tom I made it out to my cousins shop and used his hydraulic press and I did press off thes star and the cage that holds the ball bearings. On the transmissions side I was successful without damaging the splines. Now on the wheel hubs outside, how do I get that part separated again it’s not wanting to come off and I tapped it sideways in front of the CV joint trying to loosen that from the gasket is there anything between the CV joint and the outer hub shaft that holds that on there or is it just stuck to the gasket??? Thanks Marion Fisk
Are you working on a 914 driveshaft because when looking at several series of 911 parts manuals, they do not use or show a Belleville washer. Those are used on the VWs and the 914.
No they are 911's
Is that red grease rated for CV joints? I’ve only seen and used a German brand I can’t recall which is black and molybdenum based.
Yes ,this is a synthetic blend I believe and supposedly better than what comes in the kits.
Instead of gaskets, can you use RTV or other kind of sealant? Just a thin coat and torque? Or would that be a bad idea?
I think RTV would be ok, it's kind of a narrow spot, so some grease may still fling out. I'll try it dry and let you know.
Nice ikea salad bowl
Is it? I grabbed it used at goodwill! My wife was jealous when I said sorry this is for the garage only😀
@@GarageTimeAutoResto www.ikea.com/us/en/p/trygg-serving-bowl-clear-glass-20132453/
Wait a minute, I paid $3.49!
Hi Tom, did you measure your balls, they may wear differantly, I would have tried to keep the balls from where they come from, so it would be identical to the way it came apart, just cleaner. Good daily content videos.
Nope didn't do that.
Makes sense, but might be hard to implement
You might as well throw joints in the garbage. You NEVER take the balls out if a CV joint, the joint and balls develop wear patterns. Just like why you always put engine bearings in the same position as you took them out. They will now eat themselves in a short amount of time.
I don't know about this, lots of people have taken apart these old CV joints and successfully run them before me.
Usually dirt is the enemy of these joints.
Garage Time - Restomod you dont need to take them apart to clean them. You leave them all together and put in a coffee can with mineral spirits overnight is easiest. I have a vacuum siphon gun that uses air pressure to suck up solvents and spray them. I use that to spray the joint until all the old grease is removed then blow them clean with air then repack the bearings with cv(moly) grease in a ziplock bag.