@@gutarnerd I know, right? Unfortunately I had to cut out 95% of the actual sanding I did. I know nothing about video production, but I know that it would be torture to watch 🤣 thanks for watching! 👍
@ I cut the walnut body into the Meteora shape yesterday. I’m trying to figure out if I want to sandwich some canarywood in between the walnut body and the claro walnut topper I have. I did some resawing of canarywood top pieces to get veneers if I decide to do that. Probably will. Both the claro top and walnut body have very cool yellow streaking through them. It would match well. Just taking a break until I figure out how I want to proceed. Everything was very expensive lol. This is for my son. It has to go perfectly. Still trying to route a properly clean truss rod channel. I’ll be using a router table from now on for that. I’ll keep you posted!
@adamcone6856 sounds good 👍 I wouldn't trust myself with the router table for truss rod channel. I find the router with the defence perfect for that. Well, as long as the neck blank is actually square and straight :) are you routing out cavities in the body to reduce the weight a bit? Or do you not think it will be necessary?
@ I’ve tried using a palm router twice with a side fence and it was just too unstable. I’m going to try a piece of mahogany on the router table and mark lines out where I need to stop. It is for a heel ended truss rod, which I prefer, even though I’ve never used one. The walnut isn’t very heavy, but I may route out some extra if I do a pickguard for it. Still not sure. I’d resaw the topper if I do that, so it will still have the awesome figuring. The neck and fretboard are master grade roasted flame maple. I have to get the right truss rod technique before I touch it lol. This all seemed much easier in my head when I was watching all these different videos on RUclips. I’ll get it eventually. Just need practice.
I must say it's very brave of you to start with this grade of wood. I would be scared sh**less to touch it at all... My first three builds were done in the presence of absolute professionals, so I had someone to ask billion questions before each step. And still I managed to mess up a few things 🤷♂️ With body weight, you need to consider all hardware you will put on it to be able to judge the weight. It will be heavier than you think. Since you are gluing the top on, I would suggest routing cavities (chambers) in the body outside of the obvious areas like pickups, bridge, anywhere near the neck pocket and control cavity. Like in a thinline tele, or similar, only with no f-holes. This will give you considerable weight reduction and will be invisible. Have a look how gibson is chambering their les paul guitars. I prefer spokewheel truss rods at the heel. With a notch cut out of the fretboard. I think that's what I'm going to do from now on.
Yey! Another video about sanding! 👀
@@gutarnerd I know, right? Unfortunately I had to cut out 95% of the actual sanding I did. I know nothing about video production, but I know that it would be torture to watch 🤣 thanks for watching! 👍
@@piotrkarel dang it! That's the best part! 😂
Looks great man! Thanks for posting.
Thanks! How is your build coming along?
@ I cut the walnut body into the Meteora shape yesterday. I’m trying to figure out if I want to sandwich some canarywood in between the walnut body and the claro walnut topper I have. I did some resawing of canarywood top pieces to get veneers if I decide to do that. Probably will. Both the claro top and walnut body have very cool yellow streaking through them. It would match well. Just taking a break until I figure out how I want to proceed. Everything was very expensive lol. This is for my son. It has to go perfectly. Still trying to route a properly clean truss rod channel. I’ll be using a router table from now on for that. I’ll keep you posted!
@adamcone6856 sounds good 👍 I wouldn't trust myself with the router table for truss rod channel. I find the router with the defence perfect for that. Well, as long as the neck blank is actually square and straight :) are you routing out cavities in the body to reduce the weight a bit? Or do you not think it will be necessary?
@ I’ve tried using a palm router twice with a side fence and it was just too unstable. I’m going to try a piece of mahogany on the router table and mark lines out where I need to stop. It is for a heel ended truss rod, which I prefer, even though I’ve never used one. The walnut isn’t very heavy, but I may route out some extra if I do a pickguard for it. Still not sure. I’d resaw the topper if I do that, so it will still have the awesome figuring. The neck and fretboard are master grade roasted flame maple. I have to get the right truss rod technique before I touch it lol. This all seemed much easier in my head when I was watching all these different videos on RUclips. I’ll get it eventually. Just need practice.
I must say it's very brave of you to start with this grade of wood. I would be scared sh**less to touch it at all... My first three builds were done in the presence of absolute professionals, so I had someone to ask billion questions before each step. And still I managed to mess up a few things 🤷♂️
With body weight, you need to consider all hardware you will put on it to be able to judge the weight. It will be heavier than you think. Since you are gluing the top on, I would suggest routing cavities (chambers) in the body outside of the obvious areas like pickups, bridge, anywhere near the neck pocket and control cavity. Like in a thinline tele, or similar, only with no f-holes. This will give you considerable weight reduction and will be invisible. Have a look how gibson is chambering their les paul guitars.
I prefer spokewheel truss rods at the heel. With a notch cut out of the fretboard. I think that's what I'm going to do from now on.
Great!
@@rincewindtheblack6461 thanks! 🤘
I believe the holes for the tuners should be pretty tight.
I would prefer them to be tight. I measured the tuner and it was 10mm. I used a 10mm drill bit. Next time I'll use a 9.5mm 🤷♂
what I also like to do is only do 10mm as deep as it needs to be, and the rest 8mm for the nut to go through. Next build :)